This has been the clearest instructional video I've ever found! I think I need to do this on mine, I feel like I know not only how t odo it now, but why!
Thank you for sharing. I notice you guys don't have any cold drinks while you are working and I know it is hotter than hell out there in California, especially in that closed-up shop. Watched and very much enjoyed.
Front intake up , adjust rear intake! Front exhaust up , adjust rear exhaust ! Do same for front adjustment. Rears up. Bleed down important. This is how I have done it.
Absolutely love and respect old school professionals who build things right and teach us younger people a good route to learn and build things worth a damn.
I think so. But, when it was made, it did not have adjustable pushrods. So, as soon as we all put high performance cams in them, we had to replace the pushrods with adjustables. They built them to be left alone. That wasn't gonna happen.
Good morning Mr Pacific, cameraman Mike and Jim. Great way to start my Saturday morning with a cup of Joe and my favorite CZcamsr. The Stroker is looking great and I have no doubt will run even better. Hope all is well over there in the wild wild west and with this world returning to it's so called "normal" state it's nice to see people out and about enjoying life again. Laconia was as busy as I've seen it in over ten maybe fifteen years and I loved being a part of it, as I believe so did many other's. Well good sir, it is my goal to someday meet you and shake your hand because you're one of the damn coolest cats I've gotten to know and I appreciate you very much. You make a positive difference everyday Mike and we could all learn through your examples. Until next time, please take care of yourself Mike and have a great weekend.
@@pacificmike9501 Hello, l have a question? We’re those New Lifters you just adjusted? If they were new, do they have to be Bench pre load them? If so how do you Bench pre load them? Thanks GRIZZLY44
Great video. The mousetrap on my pan has always been a mystery and the manual was useless. Your video made it easy and my bike is a pleasure to ride. Thanks.
Thank you Mike, I`m not sure what type of Push Rods I have but they looks simular to the one in the video. I`ll have to pick up a thread gage to check them. I been working on bike for years, even work for Dealership in California and had a small shop on the side. But I`m getting forgetful LOL. Now it`s on to your S&S video. Thanks again.
Pricey Lifters. I started to get those but decided on S&S instead. I may swap out next year to Jim's when I pull my motor and rebuild the entire motor. Depends on how well these last and sound...
Rolling o'er the hillside, the lifters give their shove, the oil within absorbs the shock & tells the rod above - 'Time to move, o'thin walled one, stay linear & true - my timing says to open up, as feeding time is due.' Hefty rockers twirl the nudge & torque to a waiting stem, 'They want more breakfast bouncy one, it time to wait on them.' . . . 'valve gear dept.' eh? Talk about a sweat-shop . . . 'Oh, for the peace & quiet of a mere foundry!' . . . Stay safe : )
One thing I like about your videos is that you are very methodical and explain most details superbly. This video did not help me after rebuilding my EVO because I have no idea how many "flats" my adjustable push rods require. My newly rebuilt EVO knocks like a time bomb! I do not know brand names of my lifters or my adjustable push rods in order to calculate/determine flats. Number two: after reading every single post below, no one has mentioned or answered this question: How do you know when or if the lifters actually bled down successfully? What evidence or proof shows that it indeed happened. Does the term "bleed down" imply that oil is coming from the top of a push rod heading or dripping in a downwards direction? Thanks for your input. I'm currently in limbo, at a dead end.
Try the Jim's Machine catalog online. Go to their lifters and see if they have a chart for pushrod adjustments on your Evo. You will need a thread gauge to see how many threads per inch your pushrods have. When you adjust a pushrod and tighten the locknut, you then let it bleed out its oil and you can tell when it has done that because you can then easily rotate the pushrod with your fingers. Only then should you rotate the engine.
Hey! Love the channel Mike, you've really helped me learn how to find the joy in wrenching instead of be an anxious mess haha. Thank you Now to My question! I'm installing my first set of adjustable lifters. When I lock them down, is it advisable to use loctite on the locknut to prevent loosening, or is giving it a good torque down sufficient? Thanks!
If you locktite them, you'll be fighting that locktite every time you readjust them. The locknuts work fine. Tighten them down good and you're done. Treat everything as if you'll be there again.
So the adjustment takes place for the lifters to work as little cushions. Before they bleed down, the may be too long and hold the valve open. The valves must open and close. They cannot be allowed to collide.
On anything, it's normally referred to as "adjusting the valves." You're right, you're just adjusting pushrods, which in turn adjusts the setting of those valves. It's really more of an expression than it is accurate.
They take however long they take. Sometimes it's a few minutes. Sometimes, much longer. You've just adjusted them. They should be done. But, wait 'til they bleed down before rotating the engine again.
80" EVO I was adjusting my Pushrods and lost count of turns. Do I back it off and start over? Or pull lifters back out and prime with oil then reinstall and readjust? Love your videos. Thanks
Back off and start again. They will expand all the way even if they aren't real full. You probably will have less pressure to adjust with. That's okay. The adjusters may turn more easily. That's okay. Just don't start to adjust untill the lifters have expanded to their full length.
It was already a stroker. We just changed the cam and top end. We my put it on a Dyno at some point. What we're going for is "torque." It will definitely be there.
Mike, when you think you have the tappets on the heel of a particular cam, is it also your practice to check to make sure you are at tdc on the piston you are working on, by inserting a tool into each spark plug hole?
Hey mike. I bought a set of S&S quickle pushrods which are 32 threads per inch , now should I do the 3-1/2 turns as per the pushrod spec or stay with the OEM S&S 117 which S&S calls for 4 turns or 24 flats
Sure, if you're running a stock cam. If you change to a different grind cam, you'll need adjustable pushrods. They are colorcoded for length. Do not mix them up.
Attempting my first adjustment this weekend. Have the bike up and ready for work already is the motor supposed to be that hard to turn by rear wheel with the transmission in the 1:1? Even with both spark plugs pulled and my motor isn't a high compression only 9.4:1.
With no sparkplugs, there is no compression. You neglected to tell me what the motor is. But, even without that information, if it is a serious hop-up, it may have serious valve springs, which would make the engine harder to turn over. It may also be very "fresh" which would make it a little more difficult to turn over by hand. By the way, in the world of Harleys, 9.4 is high compression. Again, no sparkplugs, no compression. Probably has stiff valve springs, whatever the motor may be.
Hi mike love your videos could you help me with my 42 wla clutch it takes a while for the clutch to disengage making it hard to shift seems like clutch basket comes out too far I’ve tried every adjustment I still have ball bearings do you think the rollers would be best any help would be appreciated thank you for your time,John
Is it possible the plates aren't sliding on the fingers? Are the fingers too grooved? Are the holes in the plates too tight on the fingers? Everything has to slide smoothly.
Hello Mike. Are there any reasons other than CONVENIENCE of removing the adjustable pushrods when one e.g. wants to replace the pushrod tube orings versus the OEM solid pushrods? Thank you.
Harley did not want their Evos messed with. They put in solid pushrods and riveted the ignition time closed. If you change cams, you'll need adjustable pushrods to set your valve adjustments. Most Evo pushrods, even adjustables, cannot be removed without disassembling more of the motpr either from the top or bottom. Generally, the procedure is to take a large bolt cutter and remove the originals and replace them with adjustables.
They are the two inner valves, but needn't be done first. It's just easiest to rotate the engine, watch the exhaust go up and down, then the intake drops and the exhaust is already down. Just think of it in the order it happens.
Great video.. I've got a 1992 sportster no history of what's been installed ..if I just measure my threads per inch..and back off adjusters then tighten up to half of threads pitch .. ..I'll be in approximately right place ..???
You're making assumptions. Not good. You need to figure out what combination you have in your motor. Do you have hydraulic lifters? Are they the originals? Do you have solid lifters that someone installed? Do you have adjustable pushrods? Do you have the original Non-adjustable pushrods.
If there's oil in the lifters (there usually is), the lifter compresses and when it bleeds down to where the pushrod can easily be turned by hand, it has bled down.
Yes. My "early" motors. Hydraulic lifters didn't come out in Harleys until 1953 Panheads. There are no oil passages to the lifters on the early motors. Hydraulic lifters need to be fed oil to be "hydraulic." I run "Velva Touch" hydraulic lifters in my Shovelhead. Everything else is solids.
@pacificmike9501 I appreciate the reply, I just did my rear cylinder pushrod adjustment using the the view port to find TDC. My Evo is on a table stand so it seems a bit easier that spinning a wheel. Next I'll do the front cylinder!
Hi mike. I have a S&S 117 ci. Engine. Would you have a used compression release valve I can buy. I took my bike out for a ride and the plunger popped out of the release valve. Of course it Won’t go back in .
You look at them. Are they adjustable? Are they aluminum or are they steel? If it's a used motor, and you have paper work, sounds like you'll want to identify a lot of things by disassembling it. That must be done carefully.
That was quite a while back. But, the valves must be adjusted with the lifters of the cylinder you're working with, bottomed, or on the heal of the cam lobe. That would be with the piston at the top of the compression stroke.
@@pacificmike9501 That is what I thought but I rather be safe than sorry.I got both heads torqued down on this Evo and Its on to the rockers and pushrods now.I love these videos and thank you so much Mike.
I mounted s&s Qickshift rods on my 92 dynaglide,but its still ticks from the front exhaust valve,the engine is rebuild after danmage on the front connecting rod bearing and nwe bor cylinders with oversice pistons,new pump but im struggling with the oil pressure,and had to change cam,i had an ev3 cam but it was to mean for my engine so i installed an ev27 whos my valvetrain liks better,but the ticking noise is still there,can it be the rocker arm bushing or side play in the rocker arm..
It can be a lifter, the endplay on that rocker arm. I really think from what you've told me, better see if your oil is circulating. See if the oil is clean. Front exhaust is the last lifter to get oil. Have you cleaned your tappet screen? What's the problem you're having with your oil system?
@@pacificmike9501 Its seems to going quiet when i rev it up on 1200+rpm but as soon as i take it down to idle its start to tick,The lifters is new and i try to bleed them in an vaacum chamber,but i try to run the engine on the starter without the pushrods to see if there is coming oil out of the lifters and it did,i have change all hoses from the oilpan to the pump and refit the oil cooler with the thermostat who was on the bike when im imported it from the state,you see im live in Norway and here is it not so warm so i tought it was not useful to have this oil cooler...but i started to wondering so i mount it back again with an long filter who i have read is must be used on 1990-1995 dynas for soome reasons.I had mount an gauge on to see how high pressure or if there pressure at all,with cold engine and new pump it was 20 psi at 1500-2000 and drop soon as the engine gets warm,so i took the spring from my old pump who i had stretch 1/4" then the pressure got up to 40 psi cold and down to 20 when it warm up,so i took it for an ride for ca 1/2 hours and then oil lamp comes on with idle and goes of with an little trottle,and my valve train was like several clocks,this was with those oem rods,i will take for an test run this weekend to see if the oil cooler,long filter and an not so aggresive cam will help my engine to get an better life... Me and my friends have descuss about why those evos between 1984 and 1989-90 is so much better than those after 1990-91,i had an 1989 fxlr some years back and it was never something with it,no tic no clack it started in all weather and brings me every where,my friend have an 1985 fxr and this bike must be uniqe,its rarely cerved and goes for hi rews and been driving on the wheel,and often been drowen over 120 mph, he have biten the crap out of it and its still running with 90000miles on the clock
@@pacificmike9501 I think ive solved the problem,i was going in my thinking box and start to figure it out what mite be the problem,when the oil got thempratre i got pressure failiure,so i start to think what if...the oil pass the lifters...since the front exhaust lifter is the last in the feed line,and if its leak the pressure will desapeare,so i loosen the rod tube on the exhaust and the rod was very loose an the inlet was an littlebit stiffer,so i took it apart an there wasent no oil between the lifters and tappet body,and i saw some small scretces on the lifter and inside the body,and luckeli i had those old oem lifters,so i took an micrometer and start messureing,the oem is 21,82 mm and the new lifter was 21,81 and something mm....So i put in those oem lifters in the front and try to give it an go,when i started the engine those tic noices was nearly gone,so im going to change the lifters to the rear cylinder tomorrow and take my bike for an test run to see if its really was those lifters who was the problem,and if so i have to call the company i baught them from and tell them what i faund
Is the oil clean? Sounds like a hydraulic lifter collapsing. Inspect the lifter. Make sure it is getting oil. You should make sure the roller on that lifter is not bad. If it is bad, you could damage the motor, running a bad roller.
@@rodmyers5691 bit late I know but the rocker pinion that holds the rocker is held in place with bolt. The pinion has a notch that the bolt rests in. This notch is not zero clearance and has some free play. This is a well-known issue of ticking with Evos
The thread pitch on the pushrods. Go by the instructions for the lifters. If you don't have the instructions, find them on line. The lifters are probably identified by writing on them.
You also could have mentioned that with both valves closed, you would be on the compression stroke of that cylinder. Just a bit of information for people learning about V-Twin engines. They could also insert a soft rod such as a pencil or wooden dowel into the spark plug hole and feel that the piston dome is at or very close to top dead center.
@@MadKingJorge There would be on the flywheel if you took the timing plug out to look, but really unnecessary for adjusting hydraulic lifters, unless you just want to be a scientist about it. 😂
ALL THE GLORY HONOR TO JESUS THE SON OF GOD GREAT AWESOME GOD JESUS MY SAVIOUR FORVER PRECIOUS REDEEMER PROVIDER HE PROVIDED, VERY GOOD TECH HD BUILDING EVO
Ok Mr. Mike a question. I have completely rebuilt my 99 Evo motor and apart from using the assembly lube everywhere, there's no oil in the engine including lifters. So, as I'm installing Andrews adjustable push rods i'm assuming there will be no bleed down. How will that affect the installation? I've looked at a ton of videos and everyone has a different way of installation, I like the way you explain things so....
That's fine. There will be something you can feel to adjust them. Pour oil in the oil tank and leave the spark plugs out. Spin the engine over a few seconds at a time so as not to damage the starter. Do this until you know the oil has circulated. Pull a plug out of the oil pump. Remove the tappet screen plug. Just so you know the oil has circulated. Reinstall the spark plugs and fire it up.
This has been the clearest instructional video I've ever found! I think I need to do this on mine, I feel like I know not only how t odo it now, but why!
Cool. Thank You.
See ya out on the road... I could see the look on Jim's face as you said that He was thinking Yep See ya out on the road very soon now!:)
You bet.
😊
Mike. When machine is complete ,we all need to here Jim say
"" see you out on the road ""
Yahhh...
👍😊
Thank you for sharing. I notice you guys don't have any cold drinks while you are working and I know it is hotter than hell out there in California, especially in that closed-up shop. Watched and very much enjoyed.
Thank You. I drink a lot of water.
😊🍦
Front intake up , adjust rear intake! Front exhaust up , adjust rear exhaust ! Do same for front adjustment. Rears up. Bleed down important. This is how I have done it.
Works the same. Just not as easy to follow.
Wow lots of clear info today. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Absolutely love and respect old school professionals who build things right and teach us younger people a good route to learn and build things worth a damn.
Thank You.
Thank you guys all so much for your excellent video's. watching from the UK. Tony
Thanks for watching!
😊
Another good video mike. I really learn something with every video and Ive been wrenching Harleys for 30 years. never to old to learn.
Good to hear
This motor is coming together looking forward to hearing it run
So are we. Coming soon. Just showing all of the steps.
Excellent work, and amazing patience.
Thank you very much!
Perfect guide, thank you. Greetings from black forest in Germany👍
Thank You. Greetings from So Cal, USA.
LOVE this channel!
Thank You.
😊
A true professional, thanks again for another good video.
Thank You
Always a pleasure watching your videos watching a master at work another proper job thanks Mike
Thanks 👍
And now I know how the valves are adjusted. The Evo is made to be simple and fun. Which it is.
I think so. But, when it was made, it did not have adjustable pushrods. So, as soon as we all put high performance cams in them, we had to replace the pushrods with adjustables. They built them to be left alone. That wasn't gonna happen.
Great video Mike I'm learning a lot from your video's 👍
Glad to hear it. Thank You.
You Mike are the MAN. dig your git down....very informative for SURE. dig your passion
Thank You
Good morning Mr Pacific, cameraman Mike and Jim. Great way to start my Saturday morning with a cup of Joe and my favorite CZcamsr. The Stroker is looking great and I have no doubt will run even better. Hope all is well over there in the wild wild west and with this world returning to it's so called "normal" state it's nice to see people out and about enjoying life again. Laconia was as busy as I've seen it in over ten maybe fifteen years and I loved being a part of it, as I believe so did many other's. Well good sir, it is my goal to someday meet you and shake your hand because you're one of the damn coolest cats I've gotten to know and I appreciate you very much. You make a positive difference everyday Mike and we could all learn through your examples. Until next time, please take care of yourself Mike and have a great weekend.
Wow. Thank You and I'll certainly look forward to meeting you. Great to hear about Laconia. I've never been. But some day.
😊
@@pacificmike9501 Hello, l have a question? We’re those New Lifters you just adjusted? If they were new, do they have to be Bench pre load them? If so how do you Bench pre load them?
Thanks GRIZZLY44
Looking great Mike and Jim thanks for sharing and God’s blessings for you two love the shows
Thank You. And, the best to you.
Very good information. Thx Mike.
Glad it was helpful!
I really love your videos and I’m so anxiously waiting to hear this beautiful engine
Thank you very much!
thanks Mike great instructions I have learned so much from you thru the years that I no longer need to take it to the dealership. thank you mike
Glad to help
Mike, l love the way you explain things. I've rebuilt a 91fatboy and a 2005 road glide with your help. Thank you
Glad to help
Great video. The mousetrap on my pan has always been a mystery and the manual was useless. Your video made it easy and my bike is a pleasure to ride. Thanks.
That's great! Thank you for making use of this stuff.
Awesome as always you guy's! Thank you.. 🇨🇦
Our pleasure!
😊
👍 it's coming to together
Yep.
Ty Mike for the video Enjoy Watching Kenny
Thank You
These vids are so helpful for this fellow Evo owner! Thanks 👍
Glad to hear it!
Always good to watch the Master at work. Learnt a lot again. Greetings from a very wet England 🇬🇧
Thanks 👍
Thank you Mike, I`m not sure what type of Push Rods I have but they looks simular to the one in the video. I`ll have to pick up a thread gage to check them. I been working on bike for years, even work for Dealership in California and had a small shop on the side. But I`m getting forgetful LOL. Now it`s on to your S&S video. Thanks again.
You bet
Awesome videos - well presented with everything precise and concise
Glad you liked it!
Pricey Lifters. I started to get those but decided on S&S instead. I may swap out next year to Jim's when I pull my motor and rebuild the entire motor. Depends on how well these last and sound...
They should treat you well.
Great training video Mike!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Mike, I have Jims pushrods, Rockers and lifters in a early Shovel, this helped a bunch
Dana
I'll bet it did. That's all better than original and brand new. How cool.
Thank you for your video's Mike. Really helps us garage mechanic guy's.
Glad you like them!
Excellent amigo💪😎👏👏👏
Thank You
looking good
Thank You
Rolling o'er the hillside, the lifters give their shove,
the oil within absorbs the shock & tells the rod above -
'Time to move, o'thin walled one, stay linear & true -
my timing says to open up, as feeding time is due.'
Hefty rockers twirl the nudge & torque to a waiting stem,
'They want more breakfast bouncy one, it time to wait on them.'
. . . 'valve gear dept.' eh? Talk about a sweat-shop . . . 'Oh, for the peace & quiet of a mere foundry!' . . . Stay safe : )
And, the dude does it again. Thank You.
😊
I never knew that Jim’s made hydraulic lifters are they good for 40.000 miles or more
Ask Jim's. I've been using their stuff forever.
Shazam! A mechanic I’ll be ! Thanks!
Thank You
EXCELLENT!
Glad you think so!
One thing I like about your videos is that you are very methodical and explain most details superbly. This video did not help me after rebuilding my EVO because I have no idea how many "flats" my adjustable push rods require. My newly rebuilt EVO knocks like a time bomb! I do not know brand names of my lifters or my adjustable push rods in order to calculate/determine flats.
Number two: after reading every single post below, no one has mentioned or answered this question: How do you know when or if the lifters actually bled down successfully? What evidence or proof shows that it indeed happened. Does the term "bleed down" imply that oil is coming from the top of a push rod heading or dripping in a downwards direction?
Thanks for your input. I'm currently in limbo, at a dead end.
Try the Jim's Machine catalog online. Go to their lifters and see if they have a chart for pushrod adjustments on your Evo. You will need a thread gauge to see how many threads per inch your pushrods have.
When you adjust a pushrod and tighten the locknut, you then let it bleed out its oil and you can tell when it has done that because you can then easily rotate the pushrod with your fingers. Only then should you rotate the engine.
Thank you Mike. You're always bailing me out..
Cool. Thank You.
Jim’s hair has gotten alot longer since this project started
You're right.
Howdy MIKE,
Adjusting the VALVES
Anything EVO is interesting = Thanks
COOP
..........................................
Thank You
Great video!
Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Right on !! As always thanks 👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️👍
You bet
Thank you
You're welcome
Mike why do you have to wait for the lifters to de-pressurize? Does it mess up the other cylinder's valve timing if you dont?
If the lifters haven't bled down, they can hold the valves open until they do. At that point, things will crash into each other.
Hey! Love the channel Mike, you've really helped me learn how to find the joy in wrenching instead of be an anxious mess haha. Thank you
Now to My question!
I'm installing my first set of adjustable lifters. When I lock them down, is it advisable to use loctite on the locknut to prevent loosening, or is giving it a good torque down sufficient?
Thanks!
If you locktite them, you'll be fighting that locktite every time you readjust them. The locknuts work fine. Tighten them down good and you're done. Treat everything as if you'll be there again.
I wish you were on the East Coast, I have a first yesr 1990 Fatboy that needs your touch.
Quite a compliment. Thank you. But, I am retired and doing my best to maintain the toys I've gathered.
Why do the lifters need to bleed down?
So the adjustment takes place for the lifters to work as little cushions. Before they bleed down, the may be too long and hold the valve open. The valves must open and close. They cannot be allowed to collide.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks!
Good info👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
excellent work Mike, camera man Mike, and Jim.
Shouldn't the title be adjusting the pushrods for the Evo Stroker?
On anything, it's normally referred to as "adjusting the valves." You're right, you're just adjusting pushrods, which in turn adjusts the setting of those valves. It's really more of an expression than it is accurate.
😊
How long does it take for the lifters to bleed down sufficiently? Then what recheck of adjustments are needed? Thanks 👍
They take however long they take. Sometimes it's a few minutes. Sometimes, much longer. You've just adjusted them. They should be done. But, wait 'til they bleed down before rotating the engine again.
80" EVO I was adjusting my Pushrods and lost count of turns. Do I back it off and start over? Or pull lifters back out and prime with oil then reinstall and readjust?
Love your videos. Thanks
Back off and start again. They will expand all the way even if they aren't real full. You probably will have less pressure to adjust with. That's okay. The adjusters may turn more easily. That's okay. Just don't start to adjust untill the lifters have expanded to their full length.
Good vid Mike... have a 1997 883 sumping..... Evo, of course.... sits a ton.... thoughts on a fix? Check valve?
Not very common on an 883. Do you change oil often?
Thx so much
Thank You.
What will be the difference in horsepower from stock to new stroker engine ? just curious.
It was already a stroker. We just changed the cam and top end. We my put it on a Dyno at some point. What we're going for is "torque." It will definitely be there.
@@pacificmike9501 thankyou
Mike, when you think you have the tappets on the heel of a particular cam, is it also your practice to check to make sure you are at tdc on the piston you are working on, by inserting a tool into each spark plug hole?
You can do a visual on the height of the lifters in their bores. When you're adjusting valves, the lifters have to be all the way down.
Hey mike. I bought a set of S&S quickle pushrods which are 32 threads per inch , now should I do the 3-1/2 turns as per the pushrod spec or stay with the OEM S&S 117 which S&S calls for 4 turns or 24 flats
Which has which? The lifter decides the length necessary for the pushrod. You'll have to do the math.
Have 98 fat. Can I use stock push rods when installing all new gaskets on engine and rocker boxes
Sure, if you're running a stock cam. If you change to a different grind cam, you'll need adjustable pushrods. They are colorcoded for length. Do not mix them up.
Attempting my first adjustment this weekend. Have the bike up and ready for work already is the motor supposed to be that hard to turn by rear wheel with the transmission in the 1:1? Even with both spark plugs pulled and my motor isn't a high compression only 9.4:1.
With no sparkplugs, there is no compression. You neglected to tell me what the motor is. But, even without that information, if it is a serious hop-up, it may have serious valve springs, which would make the engine harder to turn over. It may also be very "fresh" which would make it a little more difficult to turn over by hand. By the way, in the world of Harleys, 9.4 is high compression. Again, no sparkplugs, no compression. Probably has stiff valve springs, whatever the motor may be.
Hi mike love your videos could you help me with my 42 wla clutch it takes a while for the clutch to disengage making it hard to shift seems like clutch basket comes out too far I’ve tried every adjustment I still have ball bearings do you think the rollers would be best any help would be appreciated thank you for your time,John
Is it possible the plates aren't sliding on the fingers? Are the fingers too grooved? Are the holes in the plates too tight on the fingers? Everything has to slide smoothly.
Hello Mike. Are there any reasons other than CONVENIENCE of removing the adjustable pushrods when one e.g. wants to replace the pushrod tube orings versus the OEM solid pushrods? Thank you.
Harley did not want their Evos messed with. They put in solid pushrods and riveted the ignition time closed. If you change cams, you'll need adjustable pushrods to set your valve adjustments. Most Evo pushrods, even adjustables, cannot be removed without disassembling more of the motpr either from the top or bottom. Generally, the procedure is to take a large bolt cutter and remove the originals and replace them with adjustables.
@@pacificmike9501- Than you Mike.
Hey Mike. New subscriber here. What if I don’t know what brand my pushrods are, or if I have aftermarket lifters?
You may need to ask someone knowledgeable, like your local shop.
I saw your pictures on your site , and some pic u r on Harley Davidson knuckleheads' this your new bike or some of your collection?
The Evo stroker belongs to my friend Jim.
We've shown my Knuckle quite a bit. It's bright yellow.
So intakes are on the inside and you always do them first? Thanks Jim
They are the two inner valves, but needn't be done first. It's just easiest to rotate the engine, watch the exhaust go up and down, then the intake drops and the exhaust is already down. Just think of it in the order it happens.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you!
Great video..
I've got a 1992 sportster no history of what's been installed ..if I just measure my threads per inch..and back off adjusters then tighten up to half of threads pitch .. ..I'll be in approximately right place ..???
You're making assumptions. Not good. You need to figure out what combination you have in your motor. Do you have hydraulic lifters? Are they the originals? Do you have solid lifters that someone installed? Do you have adjustable pushrods? Do you have the original Non-adjustable pushrods.
@@pacificmike9501 correct..
I don't know ..
I'll have to pull it apart and see ..
If you don't have removeable pushrod tubes, it is probably stock.
After the lifters bleed down do you check the adjustment again?
No. Once they bleed down, you can rotate the motor.
How long does it take for the lifters to bleed down?
It varies, anywhere from a few minutes to half an hour.
Bingo, Jim. SAY BINGO 🤪😜👍
Okay.
Holly shit!! It's saruman the white on a motorcycle! Ha! Right on..
Thank You.
this adjust good for all EVO motor ? i have fatbob fxef model 1985 ?
Depends upon which lifters and pushrods you have.
When adjusting the pushrods in this type of application are they really gonna bleed down per say since there is no oil in the bike?
If there's oil in the lifters (there usually is), the lifter compresses and when it bleeds down to where the pushrod can easily be turned by hand, it has bled down.
Thanks Mike.. you've been a huge help over the years!!! Your a blessing to our community
@@pacificmike9501
How long before they bleed down?
Anywhere from a few minutes to half an hour.
Having problems finding adj guide for jims hydralic lifters and
crane pushrod please advise. Lifters are #1824.
Should be on their website. If not, call them direct @ Jim's Machine (I'm sure there's a phone number).
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for your response. I've rebuilt my 94 flstf by your videos. Thank you for being there, your the best. Again Thank you.
Thank You. I'm glad to help where I can.
Do you use solid lifters in any of your motors ?
Yes. My "early" motors. Hydraulic lifters didn't come out in Harleys until 1953 Panheads. There are no oil passages to the lifters on the early motors. Hydraulic lifters need to be fed oil to be "hydraulic." I run "Velva Touch" hydraulic lifters in my Shovelhead. Everything else is solids.
So the piston needs to be at TDC before starting the adjustment?
That's how you find the place where both valves are cosed. If they aren't both closed at that point, then, rotate one more time and they will be.
@pacificmike9501 I appreciate the reply, I just did my rear cylinder pushrod adjustment using the the view port to find TDC. My Evo is on a table stand so it seems a bit easier that spinning a wheel. Next I'll do the front cylinder!
Don't forget which timing mark means what. Front and rear TDC are two different marks.
Hi mike. I have a S&S 117 ci. Engine. Would you have a used compression release valve I can buy. I took my bike out for a ride and the plunger popped out of the release valve. Of course it Won’t go back in .
Bummer. Sorry, I don't sell parts except occasionally at the swap meet. But, I don't have one anyway.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you for responding
how do you tell which push rods you have ,on a old used EVO
You look at them. Are they adjustable? Are they aluminum or are they steel? If it's a used motor, and you have paper work, sounds like you'll want to identify a lot of things by disassembling it. That must be done carefully.
👍🖖
Thank You
Mike,Is it safe to say that the back cylinder was at top dead cylinder with lifters at bottom of base circle when you did this procedure?
That was quite a while back. But, the valves must be adjusted with the lifters of the cylinder you're working with, bottomed, or on the heal of the cam lobe. That would be with the piston at the top of the compression stroke.
@@pacificmike9501 That is what I thought but I rather be safe than sorry.I got both heads torqued down on this Evo and Its on to the rockers and pushrods now.I love these videos and thank you so much Mike.
I'm glad to help. Take it slow and be sure.
Also, be sure after adjusting that you let the lifters bleed down before rotating the engine.
@@pacificmike9501 I am on part 11 of evo rocker and push rod video of yours and getting ready for this next procedure.I will let you know how it goes.
I mounted s&s Qickshift rods on my 92 dynaglide,but its still ticks from the front exhaust valve,the engine is rebuild after danmage on the front connecting rod bearing and nwe bor cylinders with oversice pistons,new pump but im struggling with the oil pressure,and had to change cam,i had an ev3 cam but it was to mean for my engine so i installed an ev27 whos my valvetrain liks better,but the ticking noise is still there,can it be the rocker arm bushing or side play in the rocker arm..
It can be a lifter, the endplay on that rocker arm. I really think from what you've told me, better see if your oil is circulating. See if the oil is clean. Front exhaust is the last lifter to get oil. Have you cleaned your tappet screen? What's the problem you're having with your oil system?
@@pacificmike9501 Its seems to going quiet when i rev it up on 1200+rpm but as soon as i take it down to idle its start to tick,The lifters is new and i try to bleed them in an vaacum chamber,but i try to run the engine on the starter without the pushrods to see if there is coming oil out of the lifters and it did,i have change all hoses from the oilpan to the pump and refit the oil cooler with the thermostat who was on the bike when im imported it from the state,you see im live in Norway and here is it not so warm so i tought it was not useful to have this oil cooler...but i started to wondering so i mount it back again with an long filter who i have read is must be used on 1990-1995 dynas for soome reasons.I had mount an gauge on to see how high pressure or if there pressure at all,with cold engine and new pump it was 20 psi at 1500-2000 and drop soon as the engine gets warm,so i took the spring from my old pump who i had stretch 1/4" then the pressure got up to 40 psi cold and down to 20 when it warm up,so i took it for an ride for ca 1/2 hours and then oil lamp comes on with idle and goes of with an little trottle,and my valve train was like several clocks,this was with those oem rods,i will take for an test run this weekend to see if the oil cooler,long filter and an not so aggresive cam will help my engine to get an better life...
Me and my friends have descuss about why those evos between 1984 and 1989-90 is so much better than those after 1990-91,i had an 1989 fxlr some years back and it was never something with it,no tic no clack it started in all weather and brings me every where,my friend have an 1985 fxr and this bike must be uniqe,its rarely cerved and goes for hi rews and been driving on the wheel,and often been drowen over 120 mph, he have biten the crap out of it and its still running with 90000miles on the clock
@@pacificmike9501 I think ive solved the problem,i was going in my thinking box and start to figure it out what mite be the problem,when the oil got thempratre i got pressure failiure,so i start to think what if...the oil pass the lifters...since the front exhaust lifter is the last in the feed line,and if its leak the pressure will desapeare,so i loosen the rod tube on the exhaust and the rod was very loose an the inlet was an littlebit stiffer,so i took it apart an there wasent no oil between the lifters and tappet body,and i saw some small scretces on the lifter and inside the body,and luckeli i had those old oem lifters,so i took an micrometer and start messureing,the oem is 21,82 mm and the new lifter was 21,81 and something mm....So i put in those oem lifters in the front and try to give it an go,when i started the engine those tic noices was nearly gone,so im going to change the lifters to the rear cylinder tomorrow and take my bike for an test run to see if its really was those lifters who was the problem,and if so i have to call the company i baught them from and tell them what i faund
Does that ever need re adjustment or is it done for good
Hydraulic lifters are usually fine left alone after one proper adjustment.
What happens if you can’t turn the pushrods after the lifters bleed down ?
Then, they are too tight.
Got mine adjusted up to where I believe is correct, I’ve done it a couple times now.
When the engine runs up temperature it ticks.
Is the oil clean? Sounds like a hydraulic lifter collapsing. Inspect the lifter. Make sure it is getting oil. You should make sure the roller on that lifter is not bad. If it is bad, you could damage the motor, running a bad roller.
This has only been since I installed new Harley brand lifters. Sorry I should’ve given you more information.
I wish you good luck. We'll do it with more info next time.
@@rodmyers5691 bit late I know but the rocker pinion that holds the rocker is held in place with bolt. The pinion has a notch that the bolt rests in. This notch is not zero clearance and has some free play. This is a well-known issue of ticking with Evos
What if you dnt know what lifters u have can u go by the thread pitch and a good rule of thumb😁👍
The thread pitch on the pushrods. Go by the instructions for the lifters. If you don't have the instructions, find them on line. The lifters are probably identified by writing on them.
You also could have mentioned that with both valves closed, you would be on the compression stroke of that cylinder. Just a bit of information for people learning about V-Twin engines. They could also insert a soft rod such as a pencil or wooden dowel into the spark plug hole and feel that the piston dome is at or very close to top dead center.
We've discussed this in several videos, But, thank you.
Right on!
@@scottbaldwin1439 No TDC markings on the crank?
@@MadKingJorge There would be on the flywheel if you took the timing plug out to look, but really unnecessary for adjusting hydraulic lifters, unless you just want to be a scientist about it. 😂
Hey brother. What way if any can I have you do some work for me on my 97 Evo?
Thank You. But, I am retired. Occasionally I do something for the channel that is not my own. Normally, I'm just doing my own stuff.
@@pacificmike9501 do you have anyone you could recommend? Peace
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍
Thank You.
I love counting to 18, mooahuahh-haahaa-haa
It works.
How to make Nickel Krom My friend
I don't understand.
@@pacificmike9501 There are chrome coating materials I want to know
What is the question?
ما هو السؤال
Come on, really? Nobody has an EVO anymore! That was 40 years ago! How bout how to get more juice out of my M8 Street Glide…
That's not the stuff I'm about. I try to live in an "Art Deco" world.
ALL THE GLORY HONOR TO JESUS THE SON OF GOD GREAT AWESOME GOD JESUS MY SAVIOUR FORVER PRECIOUS REDEEMER PROVIDER HE PROVIDED, VERY GOOD TECH HD BUILDING EVO
Thank You. Take care.
"18 flats" ? I guess a flat is about a 1/4 turn. ABOUT because it didn't look like you was real percise !
A flat is 1/6 th of a turn. Yes, I was precise.
Ok Mr. Mike a question. I have completely rebuilt my 99 Evo motor and apart from using the assembly lube everywhere, there's no oil in the engine including lifters. So, as I'm installing Andrews adjustable push rods i'm assuming there will be no bleed down. How will that affect the installation? I've looked at a ton of videos and everyone has a different way of installation, I like the way you explain things so....
That's fine. There will be something you can feel to adjust them. Pour oil in the oil tank and leave the spark plugs out. Spin the engine over a few seconds at a time so as not to damage the starter. Do this until you know the oil has circulated. Pull a plug out of the oil pump. Remove the tappet screen plug. Just so you know the oil has circulated. Reinstall the spark plugs and fire it up.
Thanks Mike, I should have also said, the engine is out of the bike and on the bench so there is no oil to circulate.
@@pacificmike9501