Thank you, this vid helped me a lot! An improvement/idea: when you take of the wheel, loosen the screws of the disk while someone else is pushing the brakes. I damaged the screws because they where to stuck and the disk was always spinning. I had to drill them out. They are not so important because the wheel is holding the disc at his place. It's just when you have to replace a wheel, the disc will be loose.
George need some help brother, with your video I managed to get to the brake rotor screws but those things are siezed in really tight, Philips don't seem to work well, any tips?
When you use axle stands on one side of the car I understand you can't use the handbrake as pushing back the calliper pistons can cause damage, So is it safe to use chocks on each of the wheels that are grounded with the car put into reverse gear? Because the only option I have seen is to use 4 axle stands which seems a bit excessive for changing just the rear brakes.
I don't have the tool here, forgot it at my parents place. I think I'm gonna try to use some needle nose pliers to wind back the pistons, I've done it a few times hopefully it's not too stuck
@@GicaPhp Hi George.. Me again. Doing the same job again but this time I am away from home and dont have my piston press tool with me. The piston seems free but I just cant push it in quite far enough. Its like 3 or 4mm left.... I had to use mole grips... And an improvised bicycle bottom bracket tool... Any thoughts on why I cant wind it in the last bit?? Many thanks
Great vid Gorge, whats the tool you used to break off the nuts of the Caliper Carrier? and do you know where I can you buy it from including the extension bars ?
My opinion is if you drive mainly in the city, i would choose petrol as the diesel will clog and egr, turbo, dpf issue will appear and they are not cheap to fix.
Hello George, how did u took out the brake fluid from the reservoir and how much ? I'm planning to use a brand new syringe, and after i'm done put the same fluid from the syringe back
Hi just changed my pads and the car is breaking slightly without I push the breaks. I think I messe up with the alignment of the break pad pin. How can I check this?
@@tiago10alves10 if the boot is split, and rust spots have developed on cylinder, then you can try to take it out but not completely, clean it with a rough rug and wd40 and then push it back gently. Make sure you have also clean the rust in the caliper carrier and piston is align like in the video to match pads dowels, so you can fit the pads with minimum or no effort at all. If none of this will solve the issue, it is time for a new caliper.
those 2 screws are not phillips the are JIS (JAPANESE INDUSTRIAL STANDARD i believe ) different to phillips and you could destroy them trying to get them out resulting in you drilling them out, not a criticism terrific video
Thanks mate this helped me out so much! had to change a abs sensor while I was there. Great vid bud 👍🏻
Glad it helped.
Appreciate it bro for making a video. Btw your car looks very good in orange. I have a black fn2 type r.
It will be the same to change your rear discs and pads though :D :D :D
Thank you. Found your video to be the best on you tube. 👍👍
Glad it helped
Thank you, this vid helped me a lot!
An improvement/idea: when you take of the wheel, loosen the screws of the disk while someone else is pushing the brakes. I damaged the screws because they where to stuck and the disk was always spinning. I had to drill them out. They are not so important because the wheel is holding the disc at his place. It's just when you have to replace a wheel, the disc will be loose.
Good point ;)
Another reason to break the screws is not to use a JIS screwdriver, they are not Phillips on Honda cars
Thanks mate this helped alot, I appreciate it. And thanks for the link to the caliper tool. 👍
Glad it helped
Thanks, just did mine. Saved me some money
Happy to help ;)
thank you for make a video about it. very detail and helpful
I am glad that it helped you. Cheers
Thank you
Today I replaced discs and padding my old civic :-)
Glad it helped
Best explenation I ever see on here thnx.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, many thanks for ‘how to guide’
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid brother honest as the day is long . . . And dark at the end 😂😂👍🏼👍🏼
No rush, holiday time :D
Great video !!
Thanks!
Thanks m8 great instructions
Glad it helped
Great video, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
thanks for very helpful video
Happy to help
Brilliant 👍👍
Thanks
Sound as a pound George, I'll be using this as a reference for fitting mine. CZcams for the win!
Thanks ;)
i realize Im kind of off topic but do anybody know a good place to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Arthur Cash Lately I have been using Flixzone. You can find it on google :)
@Arthur Cash I would suggest FlixZone. Just google for it :)
Very well presented. Clear camera views and just like most of us some nuts are well tight and corroded
I am happy that this video was useful ;) Thanks for watching
George need some help brother, with your video I managed to get to the brake rotor screws but those things are siezed in really tight, Philips don't seem to work well, any tips?
The discs are siezed on the hub? if that, the mighty hammer and wd40 or any penetrating oil will do
When you use axle stands on one side of the car I understand you can't use the handbrake as pushing back the calliper pistons can cause damage, So is it safe to use chocks on each of the wheels that are grounded with the car put into reverse gear? Because the only option I have seen is to use 4 axle stands which seems a bit excessive for changing just the rear brakes.
just put the car on flat ground, choke front wheels, leave handbrake off and do one wheel at a time
Nice video
I hope you find it useful
I don't have the tool here, forgot it at my parents place. I think I'm gonna try to use some needle nose pliers to wind back the pistons, I've done it a few times hopefully it's not too stuck
with a bit of effort, you should be able to do it.
Thanks George.
You're welcome
@@GicaPhp
Hi George.. Me again.
Doing the same job again but this time I am away from home and dont have my piston press tool with me. The piston seems free but I just cant push it in quite far enough. Its like 3 or 4mm left....
I had to use mole grips... And an improvised bicycle bottom bracket tool... Any thoughts on why I cant wind it in the last bit??
Many thanks
Great vid Gorge, whats the tool you used to break off the nuts of the Caliper Carrier?
and do you know where I can you buy it from including the extension bars ?
You can buy any set like this one amzn.to/3hii0Td you have inside everything you need
thanks Gorge, really appreciate it
which engine is more reliable on these petrol or diesel ? thinking of getting one as a daily soon. thnx
My opinion is if you drive mainly in the city, i would choose petrol as the diesel will clog and egr, turbo, dpf issue will appear and they are not cheap to fix.
Could I use a g clamp to wind back the piston?
doable
Thank you
You're welcome
Hello George, how did u took out the brake fluid from the reservoir and how much ? I'm planning to use a brand new syringe, and after i'm done put the same fluid from the syringe back
Just take out as much as you can as you will put fresh fluid in it.
@@GicaPhp i'm assuming that after you took out the fluid you did put back the lid and then you pushed the piston back, right ?!
@@giogrig6574 no, i left the lid off, so it will be easier to push the pistons back.
@@GicaPhp awesome thx
do we have to take the handbrake off will it roll back ever after jacking up the car as my driveway is a bit of slope
yes, handbrake needs to be off to replace pads
No grease when installing new pads?
I suppose if he's using cheap pads or not. More premium ones shouldn't need grease
No, I do not use grease on pads.
Always use grease on pads. Rears seize up really easy
Hi just changed my pads and the car is breaking slightly without I push the breaks. I think I messe up with the alignment of the break pad pin. How can I check this?
Front or rear pads?
@@GicaPhp rear , I realized the boot caliper is broken and is not returning. I need new caliper
@@tiago10alves10 if the boot is split, and rust spots have developed on cylinder, then you can try to take it out but not completely, clean it with a rough rug and wd40 and then push it back gently. Make sure you have also clean the rust in the caliper carrier and piston is align like in the video to match pads dowels, so you can fit the pads with minimum or no effort at all. If none of this will solve the issue, it is time for a new caliper.
@@GicaPhp thanks for you answer I will try 👌
@@GicaPhp do I have to buy new boots too?
Hi it's great job what's keys number did you used 13 and 15 yes or no
13 and 17 for the caliper bolts
@@GicaPhp ok thanks i changed the brakes at home thank you a lot 😊
You are welcome
No caliper or slider pin grease ??
Not this time, but you are free to put as much grease as you like ;)
Salut george poți te rog frumos sa îmi recomanzi un ulei de motor bun pt civic 2.2.diesel .ms.
Castrol. Motul, Mobil 1
Wow that caliper looks like it was found on a shipwreck in the ocean.
still works, even today :D
those 2 screws are not phillips the are JIS (JAPANESE INDUSTRIAL STANDARD i believe ) different to phillips and you could destroy them trying to get them out resulting in you drilling them out, not a criticism terrific video
thanks for the info and heads up, any information is highly appreciated
Do they need bleeding?
When you do discs and pads, no bleeding is necessary
I needed to adjust the handbrake after I fit the new pads
To adjust handbrake, you can do it from inside the car.
Don't you just hate it when you wear gloves to try and prevent your hands getting dirty but you still end up with a dirty thumb 😃
Yes, i love a dirty thumb :))))
Too much pressure on the brake hose. And no lubricant on the piston guide
Thanks for the feedback
Put the screws holding disc on loosely not tight
Got it :) thanks for the tip.