Problems With Ducts in The Attic
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- čas přidán 13. 05. 2012
- www.DrEnergySaver.com | 1-866-607-0191
Larry Janesky, founder of Dr. Energy Saver, was recently in Florida helping a homeowner solve a problem many other homeowners in the southeast have and don't even know about: ducts in the attic. While these ducts are sometimes used for heating during the winter, most of the year they are used for cooling in the warmer areas of the country. They distribute cool air throughout the house.
The problem with having ducts in the attic in these areas is that, as the sun shines relentlessly over the roof during the hot days of summer, regular roof shingles absorb a lot of heat from the sun and that heat is transferred to the attic. On hot days, the temperatures in the attic can be as high as 140 or 150 degrees.
When typical ducts, used to distribute cool air throughout the house are located in the attic, and are improperly insulated and air sealed, the air that you paid to cool down to 50 degrees, is running through metal ducts that are baking at 140 degrees in the attic! The air will be heated again, before it reaches the rooms in the house.
As a result, your air conditioner system will work harder, more often, and your home will still be uncomfortable. Ducts that run through the attic need to be thoroughly air sealed and insulated.
For this particular job, Larry opted for using spray foam to insulate and air seal the ducts, and the connections between ducts and drywall ceiling. While newer homes, built with energy efficiency in mind, will have ducts running through conditioned areas to prevent heat gain and loss, older homes can be made energy efficient with proper duct air sealing and insulation.
For more information about how to save energy through sealing and insulating air ducts, or for more energy saving tips, visit our website or call Dr. Energy Saver for a comprehensive home energy audit! - Jak na to + styl
Awesome vid. Thanks for the information. From fort Myers Florida
Excellent video showing a real duct system in Florida. Thanks
That what he show you in Northern Jacksonville , Florida , he should of took you under the house ,what cool of the first floor, cats and rats ripping hole in the duct work .
NICELY DONE MAN!
Great video, Doc. Didn't know they made foam that sprayed out of a commercial airless paint sprayer.
Damn I appreciate this video I've been having an issue like this for a while with my rental company which has been running my light bills up afford $500 a month they keep sending people out and these Refrigeration guys don't know no more than what I know I tried to tell them what was going on because I thought it was common sense but you just proved my point everything that I thought was going on and it being located in the Attic was part of the issue my damn AC the Atticus 120° the air come out of it is about 79° the house is about 86 degrees and these f*** ups don't seem to be to get it right
AC techs are typically useless. They know how to install things. That’s about it. They don’t know how things do why they do.
Excellent video ! Thank you for the practical information.
James Ross
L
Great explanation
Spray Foam is good for air sealing. The problem however is when spraying duct work, most of the time you can only get to three sides of the duct. If the bottom is not insulated you create moisture or condensation problems. These problems are hard to find until the ceilings in the hose star showing signs of wetness or staining.
No spray foam is never good for duct work, always use mastic instead
@@justinreeves9434 Didn’t the good doctor show spray foam on his fix? Malpractice? 🤣
Great video and VERY informative. I've got ducts in the attic; I've got to check them out. Thanks!
Spray foam is almost like a permanent compromise, so you better make sure that the attic venting setup is what you want for the life of the home. Unfortunately, a lot of these types of homes also have a horizontal furnace in the attic as well, which is a whole other problem altogether.
12 years ago, and we still haven't adopted these simple practices yet. How ridiculous, especially considering the amount of energy that is lost.
Thanks for the video. I live in Florida and thought it might be helpful to reinsulate the duct work. What spray insulation would you recommend? Can this be a Do It Yourself type project?
Homes of the future sure won't have ducts in unconditioned spaces.. because we're starting to realize that insulating the *roof* is a much cheaper and more effective strategy than insulating the ceiling. Turns out, keeping a crazy hot box on top of the cool box you live in is a terrible strategy for keeping the costs down.
I always wondered why they didn't insulate the bottom of the roof where the heat is radiating from. Rather than insulating the ceiling beneath the roof.
@@shaylinhill it's easier to stack things than hang things, so we've previously just piled up insulation on top of the ceiling (because being lazy is also cheaper, I guess)
Got one duct vent not blowing air . while I was doing some other work looked at my vents to see any disconnect loose or damaged ducts but really seemed fine . Hmmm going up there to take a closer look .
In my house ducts go through attic but they are insulaited with 50mm of stone wool and covered with plown stone wool. And ducts are only for supply and return air, heating is done with fireplace, heatpump and floor heating and cooling is done with heatpump
I know I've got the main feed crushed. I can see the dents. And yep, it's in the eves of the knee wall. Suggestions on how to check the duct work throughout the rest of the house?
I'm going to explain my issue with ducting in the attic. I have only electric heat in the house and had central air installed with the air handler and ducting in the attic.
During the frigid Wisconsin winters heat rises from inside the home in to the ducting and air handler, hits the extremely cold air, and creates massive amounts of condensation.
Enough condensation pooled up inside the insulation sleeves of the flexible ducting that it began sagging and eventually started dripping from the garage ceiling and down walls in the house.
This happens even with the registers closed. I had to seal them off with plastic which helped a little. Spring time came, I pulled the air filter out and it was a big, wet moldy sponge.
So I have to go through and clean out the mold, "fog" the ducting, and most importantly, have the ducting spray foamed and sealed tight. The air handler needs to somehow remain warm in winter as well.
I've had to educate every HVAC guy that came to look at this A/C on the problem. Also, I have not located a single duct cleaning biz in Western Wisconsin that is capable of cleaning this type of setup. It's been a headache.
You should install screen over the ventilation vents to keep the ducks out.
Ok you just explained the heat in the summer but is it the same principle but vice versa in the winter!
A mini split is the answer much more efficient.
Excellent video. I think the A/C repair guy did something to my attic duct or evaporator unit, I smell odor from the attic.
Naples Florida here 😁 We’re getting nasty rafter attic smell being pushed through the recessed kitchen lighting fixtures and wall light switch plate / pocket door near kitchen when AC is running. Thinking we have a ruptured duct. Problem is that there’s an attic door in garage and master bedroom closet at the opposite side of villa. Garage access will not provide an easy look-see to troubleshoot. Are villa attics easy to crawl through? Any advice would be appreciated. Great video btw
attics out here in az hit 165 easy crazy
Hot air rises but Cold air sinks. That's why the ducts are on the top. They should insulate the roof & it's walls/floors & move the Hvac up there.
Many of the "pin holes" in the duct work is from service people sticking temperature probes in to obtain temperature inside duct work.
Yeah without sealing it afterwards. Nice.
I hate those contractors
This is a long shot seeing as this video is so old. I thought I'd try and ask anyway: What are the dangers/risks of starting an AC with ducts in the attic that hasn't ran in 10 years. Is there anything we should do special?
Is it a good idea for me to insulate my attic and buy a Mr. Cool mini split and air condition my attic?
Sure wish he could come do my home! Live in Florida and this year been having the same issue he was just talking about, cool air getting hot from the attic! COME SEE ME LARRY!!! I NEED HELP!!
Hi Blizzack198
Perhaps you can call one of our FL dealers? Here's a list of them: www.drenergysaver.com/energy-audit-contractors/florida.html
Dr. Energy Saver I wish! The closest one is Orlando...2.5 hours away. :( thanks though, great video and great ideas!! Now I just gotta figure out how to complete these task myself! ha
Dr. Energy Saver thanks great info
Dr. Energy Saver Do you know of anyone in San Antonio TX? Im not sure if the 8 attic ducts should be wrapped in r-8 with a radiant reflective barrier, or a type of spray foam?
I also have a question about how to go about insulating bathroom fans, and electrical receptacles in the attic space?
The home is a one-story Texas home. With a ridge vent. Also with very well done soffit ventilation wrapping around the entire home.
How do you seal the bottom side of the duct work that rest on the ceiling ?
is it safe to use mastic duck sealant inside the filter rack? our technician accidentally made many holes on the filter rack so he taped them and some part he couldn't tape because it was in some odd places it couldn't be reached, but he used mastic sealant to cover the tapes and the holes. But he used them a lot. Like close to 1/2 inside the filter rack. Are these safe?
One could add a air feed, filtered return into the attic. This would cool the duct work, and help prevent the buildup of moister. As air conditioners are also dehumidifiers.
Dehumidifiers are also AC. Removing humidity from the air, is how you cool the air. Good luck cooling down a house with no humidity in it.
@@jamesbizs Incorrect, what you are thinking of is swamp cooling which cools by removing humidity. AC works regardless of humidity but in high humidity situations they also dehumidify as a consequence of condensation that occurs whilst cooling down the air, but the dehumidification is not the cause of cooling the air.
Larry: You were overly nice with this assessment of what is basically a typical example of atrocious contemporary residential HVAC and attic insulation. We have to do better people! Great video nonetheless...and your personal presentation is very personable compared to many similar channels.
We can do better. But you gotta pay for better. As the old saying goes, you can have fast and good, but not cheap. Fast and cheap but not good. And cheap and good, but not fast.
I live in a 5 floor split level which was built in the 1950s. And the only floor that doesn't get cool is the top floor. I may have to have another vent put up there, it only has one.
November Spirits ductboard sucks big time
Heat rises; where is your return? Good chance that all of the heat in the house circulates it's way to the top and then gets stuck there.
Perhaps a ductless unit just for that floor might help and you can diy install them
When spraying the foam insulation, you can't get underneath the installed ducting.
I have an old Florida (1940-50s) home with sheet metal roofing directly on cedar batten ( old school, good thick rough sawn) 1x4 boards. No sheathing or insulation. Should I add insulation panels or spray foam. I'm also concerned about possible condensation though I've never seen any indication of it. That's in addition to the ductwork Identical to what's in the video.
Sir, I have concern right now. A technician drilled 6 holes in the filter rack and my unit is also in the attic. He told me no air in the attic nor fiber glass will get into it but I begged the differ and he put tapes on those holes saying these tapes are for AC units and they last many years. But he missed one hole and after several month I found it today. I hope no bad air nor fiber glass came through. The problem is my filter doesn't fit too well inside the filter rack due to filter rack not made correctly. Also those tapes are coming off as well so I had to put extra. Other AC companies told me that "Yes, air in the attic will get through those holes." Also told me those tapes are not going to hold for too long. Do I need to be worried? I have kids in the house and I am freaking out because one of the hole wasn't taped. And the warranty company can change the filter track to new but they won't do it because they don't want to cause more issues because they said once you take things apart and install new because you already took things apart it won't be the same. And things will fall apart and get loose. So tape is the best way to go with along with some seals to seal the tape so it won't come off. But is that the best way sir?
is there a video of how you built a flat walking system in the attic out of laminate board? how thick were the boards? My roof has all sorts of support beams that make it difficult to walk through and having only joist beams make it even worse.
If your attic is that hot consider an attic fan with a thermostat.
Yep and it works well.
can i air seal with foam over the insulation that wraps the ducts (ducts are in the attic)?
Can you over insulate the return? My 1 ton ac unit is in the attic (Va) my return has insulation on it but can I put more?? Will it help? I'm going to put insulation on the lines running from the return. I hope I asked the question right! Tank you for making these!!!!!!
c222233 yes you can 100% on all residential jobs I do in basements ac does not call for it unless you have forced hot air also in the attic weather you only have ac or heat the return should be insulated always in attics a lot of guys don’t do the return cause they are lazy and it doesn’t have to be done by code or law.
I have high static pressure on a new 3.5 ton heat pump. I know for sure the flex duct is the issue. I have two 12" coming out of the supply in opposite directions. I know I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton heat pump. I did a diagram layout of the duct in the attic. What would happen if I just replace the two 12" to 18"?
Ignoring the downstairs, because everything is between the walls. The problem was even worse with an undersized return. The original and only return was a 24x18. The total static pressure on the unit was .9 W.C. I was able to drop the TESP to .66 by making the return 30x24. Since there is so much static pressure and the unit TESP is a .2 and I need an 18" for a 3.5 ton for 1400 CFM. How big does the supply plenum should be and what shape? Should the supply plenum split to 3 18" going out to each of the 3 distribution boxes? Do the other three distribution boxes also need to be larger?
Looking at the triangle shaped supply plenum I have very little room up for a rectangle plenum. I think a 3 feet ductboard supply plenum should work. There is a foot from the Air handler to the ceiling and I think 2 feet from the attic floor to the roof. Now I am looking at two types of designs. Design #1 keeps the 18" ducts straight by having a single 18" coming out of the supply and then a distribution box splitting it to three 18". The sides would be coming out straight to the to side boxes and one going to the third box with a slight curve. Design #2 splits to three right at the supply plenum and goes to each box individually, but all three will have a slight curve. I will not be using any metal plenums..... it will be all flex duct and ductboard boxes, because of budget. I am not trying to make a perfect system, but trying to remove the restriction from the 12" undersized ducts installed and replacing the flex duct that was patched with mastic with new ones.
Another question about the installation..... I have the flex duct running up and strapped to the roof for support. Since the supply plenum is low to the floor due to the roof..... Can the flex duct be run on the attic floor? Can you tell me which layout makes more sense and less restrictive? Thank you.
Layouts:
Current
i.ibb.co/Ld9kmPM/Flex-Duct-Layout-and-Size.jpg
Option #1
i.ibb.co/GHyS00g/2022-07-05-0002.jpg
Option #2
i.ibb.co/PNN8mSB/2022-07-05-0001.jpg
Air Handler Specs
ibb.co/17VvF4B
Video of attic
czcams.com/video/iInIN89q8GU/video.html
Live in Alexandria LA. Help
Do you except Blue Cross Blue Shield? Do I need a referral from my Primary doctor? Thanks.
I'm in Australia and my house is on the side of a hill so my ducts are going to go under the floor.
No way I'm spending my hard earned money pushing cool air through ducting I could cook an egg on.
Make sure when you have them installed under the house to
Insulate under the house or check to make sure that mice or rats or snakes don't rip the insulation!
Cook steak instead
This duct works looks like it needs to be very updated
Insulate the duct problem solved
This is a two minute video. Life is too short for all this superfluous info.
you should be trying to install attic fans as much as possible that really makes a difference and removes a lot of heat load on the house I have seen it after installing a few myself should be part of your energy saving platform
I have an attic fan in my attic and it keeps the attic around 90 degrees even on a hot summer day.
Is this a fan that is through the roof or attached to the gable vents? Thanks.
This old house episode of spray. Forming air and heating ducts in crawl space
why not use reflective bubble wrap instead?
Ya why
This raises good points. We have a house from '43 with ductwork installed in the crawl in '85. The crawl ducts need repair and have a few "nests" in them. We are considering replacing our propane furnace with a heat pump and putting new ducts in the attic. This video, makes me now wonder if it would be better to repair and re-insulate the crawl ducts instead. I would really like to hear your opinion. Great video BTW.
an attic fan makes a huge difference on the temperature in an attic
What about rectifying those ducts that develop kinks in the line? we have hanging ducts in our attics and I have seen numerous times where the straps holding the ducts up either collapse or cause a bend/kink. Would it be worth the money to install an attic fan to blow out the hot air? Or use radiant barrier or high performance foam that is sprayed on the back side of the roof?
He ain’t going to answer you unless you hire him. How to make your attic cooler, that’s the real question then all problems are solved. White shingles number one easiest way unless you live in a HOA run by morons which require a nice dark gray roof. 2nd choice a metal roof that’s reflective or has a reflective barrier under it (again, HOA morons). 3rd, insulate the under side but access to all that after the house is built might not be possible. Lenar morons hung my ducts pretty high up in spots that obviously they could have ran closer to the bottom so more hot air can radiate into them. I have a 8 to 10 degree rise in temp from air handler output to the furthest room ( one story 2000 foot home) on a late day summer day. I also have returns from most rooms so more spaghetti to absorb hot attic air. I wanted to explore if adding another layer of insulation around the ducts bring cold air to the furthest rooms and seal the ends to prevent condensation would help lower the temp. Anything might be better then nothing, but I’m not a doctor just another victim of builders doing stupid sh@t.
I live in Houston Texas and all of my AC vents are insulated on the inside with duct board. One of the vents duct board is moldy and needs to be removed. My question is, should I remove it and replace it with more duct board or can I remove it and insulate the boot on the exterior side, in the attic? Also, in the attic, they have surrounded the boot with a wooden 2x4's box. If I insulate on exterior side, what is best way to do this? Thank you.
Get new ducts
I have a question for you. My attic is very very tight and you have to crawl in your stomach to do any type of duct work repair. Now I was able to see from far away one of my ducts is broken and the air escaping to the attic. I don’t have money to replace the duct right now. So I was thinking if I go inside the attic and I remove that duct from the plenum and close that circle hole with a board of insulation, would it save me money on electricity since the air is not escaping anymore? Or would the ac work harder because now the air from the rest of the day f the house have to travel farther to cool that room now? I’m confused what to do. Please help me understand this. Thank you
just don't close more than one off, you may add too much pressure for your system creating leaks in other places.
This fan works very well. czcams.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I replaced my old fan as our radon levels began to spike. When I remove the old fan water poured out of the fan. Must have entered in through the out spout. Replaced with this unit and levels dropped a bit but still over 4.0.Did some more digging and found that we had a small hole under our waste pipe that was allowing some water and radon in.Patched the hole and the levels dropped almost overnight.I really would recommend the radon sensor. It gives real time readings. Without it we would have never known that we had this issue.
I have a brand new 2017 home and ducts are spaghetti noodles throughout the attic. When is the future... When I build my custom house, there will be no ducts in the attic. They should be in the conditioned space.
Brandon Tran
And if the house is built on a slab (no crawlspace)???
Insulate the attic.
Jim Banville yes built on slab
Dont use ducts at all use a mini split like most of the modern world does.
Ductboard is the worst damn material to use for duct work. I can't stand it. It makes no sense to have a material used out of fiber glass (on the inside) And mold can grow on it easy even if the duct is sealed properly. I wish it was out lawed.
Fiberglass is in all air handlers and furnaces. Duct/board has been used for trunk systems since 70's and still together 40 years.Metal round pipe will not last that long.
smacleod69 i agree a million percent with you all down south they use that shit but in New England we 100% almost use 26 gauge sheet metal anytime I seen duct board i think of hacks that don’t have true tin knocking skills if you know what I mean I’ve been doing residential and commercial installs since 1998 and I never put that shit in I would refuse I swear anytime we had a job go out with that I said to my boss fire me cause I will not put that shit in I think it’s killing people to have insulation on the inside of duct and the same goes for commercial jobs I hate when the line the duct on the inside it’s dumb.
I believe is ok to use duct board in Florida but not in Up North due to season temperature. Sheet Metal is apropiate for Up North.
Hold it. Dosnt cool air inside a duct tend to create conditions on the ductwork that might drip down onto the backside of drywall celing causing mold, I mean a large tempture change is going to swing the humidity and flordia couldnt be more humid an environment. Wouldnt it make more sence to make an attic air tight? Spray foam the rafter and roof joist close all attic vents seriously why do you need to vent an attic? If your shingles reflect sunlight insted of soak it up.
Plus why heat up a space you have to keep cooler?
My attic duct work was and is crap, it has a R7 insulation on it it may even be less it was installed eairly 90s the connections were done with duct tape by the hvac company. The main trunk from on my 2 story house had 6 taps only they cut 8 holes. On the backside to fix the mistake they stuck a pice of tin and held it on with 3 screws, it was just flapping in the breeze. Seriously you screwed up installing it fix your dam mistake. Yes code is 3 screws i get that but any dumbass knows this is going to leak air.
3 screws isn't going to hold 1 sheet of tin over 2 -6" holes. The take offs in the basement off the main trunk wasn't much better. Ive been looking at the way this system was done for 21 years honestly id rather have it inside the living space even if its in plain view. But I know I can hide it.
Code dosnt always work to give the best souloutions it lets builders get away with poor slopy work thats not going to last.
And here in the midwest its slap it up fast who cares what it is next week cant see it from my driveway. No pride in craftmenship.
I watch this old house, and Holmes on homes and wonder how some of these contractors and subs sleep at night?
The industry needs better standards for all trades. You should be paid for speed performance and qulity of work as well as doing the job safly. No more rush jobs and super dirty dangrous job seights. I think a inspector should be able to spot check any job and red flag it for any reason at any time day or night.
If its not picked up at the end of the day and kept clean as best as you can for whats being done its a safty issue.
If a wall is out of squar, not plumb and the crowns are all in different directions it dont pass code. Come on you guys know thats shit work and it could be better. Qulity should be part of code inspections. Every aspect of the building from foundation to roof peak. And beyond.
This is no shit 4 houses had to be vacated becuse the area they were built on was fill dirt and it shifted only one was being lived in one was a show house and 2 were still in construction at about 80%done were talking houses that would sell for 250 to 300k each. Insurance dosnt cover this. How would you like to buy a brand new home only to find out its sliding down a man made hill?
What about venting the attic either with a simple vent or a fan that is controlled by a thermostat? My upper attic, above the 2nd floor, has a vent. But the attic area above the garage is not vented except with little vents under the eaves.
it makes a big difference attic fans have seen it myself being in the business for a very long time heating AC
@@benkuxhouse787 Yep attic fans make a huge difference, i have one in my attic.
At least in Florida almost all the houses have ridge vents, which in study by the University of Florida are shown to move the highest volume of air in their test houses using thermal cameras etc.
Tried calling here but the phone was not working
They’re still putting them in the attic. My home is a sucky Ryan home, and the ducts are in the attic.😩
Where should you put it then?
My ducts are hanged around my attic can lay them on the attic floor and spray insulation on them? I have loose fill insulation.
If they’re hung up it’s to reduce static pressure and you don’t wanna mess with that
I have a serious problem with water flooding the ductwork under my house please contact me I need a professionals advise
John Glass any ductwork that is not sealed or insulated in an unconditioned space like an attic or crawlspace will condensate and cause large amounts of water damage if left untreated.seal all seams and insulate all duct to r8 value and it should stop
Duct board should be illegal.
I live in south Florida. Horrible roof. No way it ever gets to 150. I’ve measured all it all year round. 130. Maybe 140 in the worse possible case.
The vents from the ceiling drip during the winter.. This only happens in the room that is 20 year old addition ( we bought the house with it already added) We live in the north east. Can any one suggest something we can do?
Christopher Gojdics yes.you can seal the seams on the ducts and make sure you have at least an r8 value insulation on all the duct work.and in an addition make sure the room is insulated as well.the condensation is from the warm air in your ducts mixing with the cold air in your attic or room.this should eliminate that problem.make sure you do not forget to insulate the boots in the ceiling also.hope this helped you
Cover the duct - warm air from house rises - get cold in attic - drops back into house - condensation forms. Use commercial plastic covers or use a sheet of plastic between ceiling and air diffuser
I woke up to find water leaking on my bed from an air vent. It’s winter season so the sun is not the problem. Anybody have any information or suggestions on what could be causing this problem? Please!
Nicole Davis condensation from warm air seeping into attic or leaking from ductwork mixing with cold air
Probably a problem with the vapor barrier in your house. As KPK team said, warm air is mixing with the cold air somewhere, and it's causing it to condense somewhere. Couple of things to consider: How humid is the inside air? Relative humidity over 35% (or even lower in very cold areas) will cause condensation in your ducts as the air cools (insulation only slows the cooling, it doesn't stop it).
Is your vapor barrier intact and installed correctly? If warm, humid air leaks into the attic, it will cause all kinds of mold problems over time. Is your vapor barrier intact around your outlets and ceiling light fixtures? Is it intact around your ductwork?
I'd seriously consider solutions to dehumidify your house if your home's relative humidity is over 35%. If you have a whole house humidifier because you're in an arid area, do not run it during the cold season.
This makes me want to go ductless and buy a mini-split heat pump.
If you're in an area that gets below 30°F (-1°C), consider not getting a heat pump based system. They really struggle in cold weather, as the condensate often freezes the coils and an electric heating coil must be run to keep the coils in service. Either you're spending a hell of a lot of money to keep the condenser warm enough to operate, or you're going to be cold.
If you have sloped ceilings, don't bother with a mini-split heat pump. Sloped ceilings don't work with ductless systems, so you have to get "mini-duct" systems which are only slightly better than central air.
What is the smoke and flame rating on the spray foam that is sprayed on your duct? Ducts are to have a certain smoke and flame rating on their insulation.
Well, considering the machine they used to spray the foam, I'd assume that the foam itself isn't something they are whipping up in the back yard. It's probably a foam product designed for that use and being used in the specific type of machine that we see in the video.
This is why you have a sealed conditioned attic. Vented attics and crawlspaces have been the worst building practice for decades.
What's even worse is having the ducts up there.
Aren’t you supposed to wear something to protect your lungs from the toxic stuff in the insulation?
I use to install duct systems for a living & I 100% recommend a mask & safety glasses if you're dealing with this spray insulation. I've done some attics that were so bad that I used respirator + goggles. If this if what you're dealing. It'll only take a couple times for you to blow your nose and have all kinre of black crap come out or it or you cough for a few days. Highly recommend!
First of all MOLDDDDD.
That's what I think our rental home is facing
There's water in a pan next to the AC idk exactly (my dad could explain it correctly) ANYWAYS we suspect the rental people ghetto fixed the AC and now we think there's mold bc my dad's sososo sick for months and now I have some tension/headaches when I never get headaches
There are such things as drain pans to catch the condensation coming out of the AHU
@@justinreeves9434 it's obvious idk what I'm talking about. The pan was rusted and there was a good amount of water in it so I just assumed something was wrong.
Thanks for the reply though!!!
Ducks and attics.
Is this what HVAC techs do?
karl not just this.they troubleshoot issues with furnaces and acs a majority of the time.
Where's your attic venting.Use aluminum tape and mastic
I prefer to keep my ducks in my pond
This is why mini splits are superior to ducted AC systems.. houses of the future won't have ducts at all
In the perfect world ducts would not be in attics but we're not in a perfect world.
or Duct running under these home in Historic Springfield , Jacksonville , Florida that have been remolded and are price at 300k and up , what a Joke.
It's a problem because it costs a fortune to fix. And nobody wants to work in an attic
🦆 🦆.... Goose
Did you know? Larry's boastful and bombastic little subtexts make him come across as a bit arrogant... But it's cool, thanks for the tips Mr. Dr. Energy Saver!
I don't know why anyone would feel offended by tips or facts that are provided....don't ya' know?
This guy has no idea what the hell he’s talking about
blah blah blah blah blah absolutely nothing accomplished by anything you said no valuable information simple solution by your own admission the attic is a hostile environment and in the future air conditioners will be in a conditioned space simple solution convert the existing hostile environment into a conditioned space by applying spray foam to the entire underside of the roof done properly you are going to cut the temperature in the in the Attic from 130 plus degrees down to 70 maybe 80 degrees problem solved have a good day
another idiot comment - he says exactly that at 4:30. 'Good day' :P
Yes, foam.. You think there might be any considerations on the overall bldg science? Which foam, what effects of moving the insulation to the roof, condensation etc? The answers are not as cut and dried as you would think, but hey, it's easy to criticize and HVAC people don't have to think about how the rest of the buillding works.
for the foam to work you would have to seal the entire attic including the eves and add a run in the attic to condition it.