How to Beef Up Attic Insulation | This Old House
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- Cost-effective way to save energy with This Old House general contractor Tom Silva. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom helped a homeowner make his house more energy-efficient by adding insulation in the attic. Initially, the attic had only about two inches of "rock wool" insulation between the joists. First, Tom filled up the joist bays with loose "cellulose" insulation and raked it level with the tops of the joists. Tom then added even more insulation by laying fiberglass insulation batts over the cellulose and perpendicular to the joists. To allow the homeowner to store items in the attic, Tom built a raised platform out of framing lumber and insulated underneath the platform with fiberglass batts.
Tools for Beefing Up Attic Insulation:
- tape measure [amzn.to/2FswC14]
- insulation knife [amzn.to/2RptXK4]
- leaf rake [amzn.to/2Ni06Fl], used to spread cellulose insulation
- dust mask [amzn.to/2ISOmDq]
- hammer [amzn.to/2Fp3xU6]
- circular saw [amzn.to/2WRVh4Y]
Shopping List for Beefing Up Attic Insulation:
- cellulose insulation [amzn.to/2Fjt29p]
- un-faced fiberglass insulation [amzn.to/2Y2rMi8]
- 2x10s [amzn.to/2IUGvFC] for framing a storage platform
- 7/16-inch-thick OSB
- 16d nails [amzn.to/2IZcAMC] for nailing together 2x10s
- 6d nails [amzn.to/2RtGJHE] for nailing down the OSB
2-inch-thick polystyrene [amzn.to/2N61kmI], used to cover subfloor
Tom installed 2' x 4' batts of un-faced fiberglass insulation, 9.5 inches thick. It provides an R-value of 30 and is manufactured by Owens Corning (www.owenscorning.com/en-us).
Both cellulose and fiberglass insulation can be purchased at most home centers and some building supply centers, such as KAMCO Supply Corp. of Boston (www.kamcoboston.com/)
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How to Beef Up Attic Insulation | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - Jak na to + styl
Nice to see they got it up to " ah-38."
🤣🤣
Lmao
🤣😂
😂Nice
Yet he can say R-19 perfectly. lol
I own an insulation company in Pittsburgh called Insulwise. The biggest knock here is that they are not, from what I can see, sealing the air leaks in the attic floor before adding in additional insulation. A lot of people don't realize how important this is. When you heat your house during the winter, that warm air rises up and eventually escapes through lots of hidden penetrations called air leaks like wire holes, top plate gaps, plumbing stack pipes, around attic hatches, recessed lights, etc. In terms of lost energy efficiency and cold drafts caused at the base of your home (often around the rim joists in your basement) this is bad enough. But the real kicker is that the escaping warm air also takes with it the moisture that was inside your home.
However, after adding additional insulation this warm, moist air is now entering an attic that is colder than it was before. When the water vapor now hits the colder roof decking, it can condense and greatly ups the chances for developing a mold problem. We see this often here. In some cases the ventilation can take care of this, but you don't want to rely on it. Best practice is always to air seal the attic before insulating. Than on top of that make sure that the attic is ventilated as well as it can be.
Would you recommend removing the old insulation, spray foaming, and then adding R-38 or above?
John. Spray foaming may cause a double vapour barrier. Best to just use a foam gun and foam where potential leaks may be. Wires penetrating the top wall plates and around and lighting boxes.
I was partnered with an insulator for 16 years. Learned the trade hands on with him. In canada. He said minimum was R28 as well. Minimum here at that time was R31. Attic min. here is R50 now.
andrew haak. I prefer the foam gun using cans of Enerfoam. I find Great Stuff over expands and makes a mess. It is ok for big leaks only.
@@contessaholland2426 Hello Contessa. I’m also in 🍁 and I have a question. I’ve had my roof redone two years ago because there was water leaking in. I do have lots of pink insulation, and a contractor told me that I have as much as a new house. But I’m wondering since some of that insulation got wet, if its still good or should it be replaced. I do have ice forming in the winter and I’m wondering if its because of bad circulation of air, or bad pink insulation ! Thanks in advance 👍
i can't even stand in my attic, these videos always show the perfect situation
no but the idea is the same, get on some long sleeves clothing and a good mask and get up in there, straddle them joists :P
@@draconite420 buy a tyvek suit for like 4 bucks, regular clothing will leave you exposed.
@@jdata i use to do this for a living for 2 years, both fiberglass and cellulose. The materials are not that dangerous.
U have an upper crawl space. Not an attic. We just use attic to simplify upper from lower crawl space (as in basemnt)
😂🤣
Totally unrealistic. To be realistic,the attic should be so that you can't quite stand up,dark,and about 160 degrees from the summer heat,the ceiling joists invisible so your foot runs through the sheet rock,and not to forget the 20 yr old wasp nest springing to life. Sweat in the eyes,and itching like crazy in spite of long sleeves. And a wife directing from a distance. There....now we have a realistic scenario. Thanks....I'll show myself out.
erlycuyler I think you forgot the issue of crawling over and getting caught on stray nails, poorly managed wiring and access hole requiring a rock climbing qualification. Now, where did I put my Stanley knife!?
Perfectly said
LOL!
Not forgetting to take out the 25 years worth of broken tv's, obsolete hi-fi components, your record collection from the 1980's, and cassette's, boxes of books (that youv'e read), magazine collections, bags of clothes and shoe's, birds nest's, old water tank that you cant work out how the hell it got up there in the first place, and, in my case, 2 spare wheels for a 1984 Ford Cortina! I will leave it for now. Perhaps next year.
LOL!!!
pull the blown rock wool out and replace it with the panel rock wool (used to be know as Roxul) - that stuff is awesome, and the panels used in 2x8 cavities is R33
Tommy Silva rocks it. I need him, and his crew at my house for a month.
Real nice job putting this together guys! This was incredibly informative and easy to follow along with!
I love how it's always cold in these videos. 104° in Texas and the attic is 10ft tall
Playing this video while doing this in my Dallas attic sweating balls.
Love vids like this no bs straight to the point.....
This is the first video up there with combination of 2 materials for the attic, I think this is a great Idea instead using only cellulose I can mixed with fiberglass.
Dang I need Taw-me to come by & do my attic. It's freezing! 🥶🤣👍🏻
Green Building Advisor is a great resource
This is exactly what I was looking for
I'm in the midst of a home insulation project and am glad I didn't try this! I probably wouldn't have noticed the knob and tube wiring buried under the old insulation, and if I had raked around, probably would've gotten a good shock. Although it was expensive, taking out the old insulation showed that the home's knob and tube wiring was not in good condition and really needed to be replaced. It was sagging and bent from the weight of the existing insulation, and had I put additional insulation on top, I could've run into more issues because of the additional weight. Knob and tube wiring was designed to be in a free airflow environment, so covering it with insulation increases risk for fire (and is against Electrical Code). If you cover up old insulation with new insulation, there's a good chance you'll have to tear up that new insulation in a few years to make repairs if you don't carefully check what is under the old insulation first. You also lose out on the opportunity to air seal with caulking around all of the fixtures and gaps in the drywall where rising warm air escapes, drawing cold air into the living space through the bottom of the house. My little $4000 insulation project ballooned into a $24,000 HVAC and electrical project, but now everything will be up to code and permitted (which is great for resale or insurance coverage), and the new insulation hopefully won't need to be disturbed for another 25 years or so.
How did you remove the existing insulation? I assume it was some sort of loose fill.
@@donbushek yep it was loose fill and got vacuumed out.
@@brandonbraegelmann6913 someone knows what they are doing. for next time spray foam for gaps instead of caulk. way less mess and time for you, and expands to fill the gaps deeper etc and carries its own r value compared to caulk and when it expands it has air pockets. not that it much r vaule as your not building inches but you see what i mean with that. but i appreciate someone that does it right, i know everyone cant afford that high rise in cost but it pays off over time.
either in efficiency, lower insurance premiums, higher resale cost, and not lighting the house up while your sleeping.
@WakandaBabe
0 seconds ago
I just had my attic air sealed before I added new cellulose insulation. The process was: All the old insulation was removed. Then an electrical contractor rewired the entire house; all knob and tube wiring was removed, not just deactivated. After the electrical inspection by the city, the insulation guys came back and air sealed the attic. They used foam board and various foams for cracks, etc. I saw pictures of what they did and the amount of work that was done was amazing. They also air sealed my basement in the same manner. Then new insulation was blown into the attic and more insulation was blown into the outer walls of the house. All the insulation work was done by a BPI certified contractor. Then an inspector came with a heat device and checked the heat loss. A few spots in the walls needed to be 'topped off' and that was done. The difference in my house is amazing; no more cold spots! I have a 1927 Craftsman Bungalow so I still have, and intend to keep, all the original windows, so heat loss happens there. I am working on getting interior storm windows but in the meantime, I put up plastic coverings. Even with the old windows, the house is significantly warmer. What a difference
My attic has zero insulation. Old house. I can see all the knob and tube. Should I replace it all before I insulate?
Love it. Tommy always comes up with something good.
It’s all wrong
Working now thanks
What about light fixtures? and is it ok to not blow it? it will not loft completely, but it settles over time anyways so it's ok?
this video gave me asthma!
Thanks, I’ll start my project
Thank you for this, I'm getting attic insulation done by Pure Eco Inc and they are amazing at the job
how much did it cost you?
Such a great video! Thanks!!!!!!!
Great stuff guys
I’d like to have seen a bigger rake used.
Just to be clear. A fiberglass bat is NOT an air barrier. So having “air gaps” only reduces R-value nothing else.
The 1st thing they should’ve done, would be air sealing. Remove all the 2” of old insulation. Seal the ceiling with foam products. Then do all the insulating they recommended.
Justin you're 100% correct. It's also amazing how many professional insulators still believe or at least attempt to convince homeowners that insulation stops air leakage. Abject morons.
Andy Haak, Insulwise.
great job and vid. i have white fluffy culeous , abot 15in, i wana add more, so can i add the FG batt insulation over it, b/c its heavier and will push down on the fluff? thanks!
Looks good
That’s a lot of work and materials and a lot of work!
Great Video!
I'm in southern Virginia, any idea of the depth I should use, I have 1 to 2 inches max in spots of insulation now, probably why we freeze every year.
I will say, amazing idea to rake the cellulose...... i was wondering how i could spread it without blocking the soffit vents!
No mention of the most important consideration: air sealing. This seems like a huge missed opportunity to remove the existing insulation to air seal, which based on the age of this house there is now way it was done correctly.
thats what i thought as well
yes this was basically a patch job that he's going to have to redo in 5 years. there's probably a bunch of old shitty wiring under that subfloor that needs to get redone too. missed opportunities.
At Insulwise we air seal attics every day that have existing insulation in them. My teams create a map of the rooms below the attic that shows all of the walls, ceiling fixtures, dropped ceilings, etc. When you are doing this process every day you get pretty good at it. Many air leaks are also easily identifiable above the insulation. Plumbing stack pipes, recessed lights, and even wires (need to be chased...in most cases there are 2 ceiling penetration / air leaks for every electric wire that you find.
We also often test the tightness of the attic, ie how good the air sealing job was, by performing a zone test afterward with a blower door. If the house is depressurized to -50 Pa, and you've gotten the attic to measure at -48, -49, or -50 Pa you've gotten that attic pretty darn tight. There are some air leaks that cannot be sealed such as top plates on the exterior walls of homes with low sloping roofs.
Andy
@@insulwiseenergycomfortsolu3293 can this be a diy project for people on a tight budget
@@venegasenmerida6307 It can be, just get ready to be pretty dirty. Get protective gear like respirators, knee pads, and head lamps (you want your hands free). My teams draw maps of the ceiling from below. All of the penetrations and walls get marked so that we know where to go and what to seal / look for once we're up there. If you can do it decently it'll be the best investment bang for your buck that you will ever make in your home.
Andy Haak, Insulwise
This works great if you have a nice open attic that you can walk around in easily.
I would have vacuumed that old blown insulation and used thick Rockwool batts instead, cut them when needed. Way cleaner, no need for a second layer, high r value.
That's cool cheaper too and they make it look so easy
Were all the old electrical wires replaced before doing the insulation??
But is there a vapor barrier below that rock wool insulation originally put down years ago??? Why no mention of that. I'm researching if I need to do that above a finished space over a framed in covered front porch. Currently replacing roof and rafters, so I can get at it right now.
I wish my attic was this easy to get into
Reall helpfull thanx!
I have a walk in attic constructed like this one including the chimney. The huge difference is that my attic entirely floored with insulation under the floor boards but not enough for Maine. I need to add more insulation and the local companies want to just blow insulation in on top of the floor which means I could not use the room. Should I just install it in the roof? This is an old house so no ridge vent or turbine. There is an exhaust fan in the wall. Thanks for any advise.
@sherylnapier6020 what did you end up doing?
Good Vid! Thank You,
No mention of soffit vents or insulated attic hatches or any sort of ventilation which would be a mighty big concern with beefed up insulation.
There would be less ventilation concern because less heat would be able to get into the attic. Also there are 2 large windows, one on each gable end which could be opened. Many, many old houses have no soffit or ridge vents and have survived 100's of years like that. I do agree that more venting would be better though.
The wood boards should have been removed as much as possible and air sealing the wall taps and any penetration to the ceiling going inside the house , the air going through this holes are major factor in your energy cost
This home is old. Older homes don't all have soffits like new homes
Old home leak air like a sieve. That’s how they get away with not building up moisture and the mold problem. Obviously sir sealing the attic floor and checking on attic ventilation would have taken this project to the next level.
Should you worry about sealing the roof/walls from the environment, or the attic floor from the living area. I'm assumming the attic floor as if the roof and walls werent sealed ud have leaks right?
"Aaaah thirty-eight" Fricken love the accent.
Almost all cellulose bales REQUIRE a machine. Tom Silva happened to find cellulose bale that is a 'loose pack' bale and can be busted up by hand, but those aren't available in most of US and Canada.
Well said. But actually the climatizer type of cellulose I've used looks very similar to what they installed. They should have put batts first and then cellulose on top.
@@SinnisjInsulator You're Right! I wish I had done the fiber first, then let the cellulose fill all the gaps and stuff. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20.
@@benjaminjoseph3392 I've done many topups in my 3 years as an insulator. I have an attic insulation channel I've just started.
Very helpful video just wish my access and attic were that easy
The view in this video looks very similar to my house. But in my attics it is a 2" layer of vermiculite, just as pointed out by Austin JS a month ago. My question is whether I can or cannot follow the same way with an extremely caution to cover vermiculite without disturbing it.
Yes, you can.
my entire attic was weatherized prob nearly 30 yrs ago before i bought the house. theentire floor is that blowninfiberglass junk anytime i go into the attic it tracks through my upstairs and i got to vacum it. i plan to eventually just shovel it all out and put batts down and make a floor above the entire thing or walkway
can you help us?
Tom - NO!.....(tires screeching)
@This Old House, why didn't you do an air seal?
Because drywall and tape work good enough for most people. If you want to get a perfect air tight job you probably should do it yourself.
@@mattpkp ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh it really matters
Those white Nike Monarchs are fresh as hell
I bought this condo last year and in the winter it was cold even with the heat on
My question is
I live on the top floor and i have another tenant on the same floor and don't want to insulate the attic like i do
Would I have to put up a wall up dividing my apartment in the attic from theirs so I don't feel the cold in the winter or should I just leave alone with no wall at all
Even though the other tenant doesn't want to insulate their side of the attic
What should I do?
Thanks 🙏
Just be careful that the insulation is not asbestos before disturbing. Vermiculite may contain asbestos; if not sure, a sample can taken and sent out.
Do you always volunteer obvious information to feel smart you drip?
Aw geeze my house already has asbestos siding and asbestos tile... dunno if I can handle another asbestos :(
Asbestos vermiculite came from one mine in north Dakota. The odds that it has Asbestos in it is very low.
@@me-uq8on actually, 70% of the world's vermaculite up until 1990 came from Libby, Montana and its the kind contaminated with asbestos.
@@me-uq8on actually 75% came from the mine in Libby Montana that contained it. We've tested several houses in Kansas and Missouri with vermiculite and they all came back positive
Our attic is a mess right now. There is a hole in the soffit 2 stories up that was torn open by squirrels & now there is at least one squirrel in there making house, probably with babies. I do not have a ladder that high so I am thinking that I may have to rent one to get up to that hole, unsure how much money that is going to be. I cannot locate that hole in the attic because the space becomes tighter & tighter since the hole is near where the roof angle gets thinner towards the edge of the wall, but I will try again to find it. The attic now kinda reeks a little bit of poo & pine trees, it is all over the blown-in insulation from around 25 years ago. The house itself, which my parents had designed & built, is nearly 40 years. Just one more maintenance to do out of a dozen things to do. Its not just that, I need to figure out how to evict the squirrel & then also try to find the babes if any. I dont want the smell of rotting death all over the attic & then seeping into our house below. I need TOH to come over for a visit, heh.
Do you just lay it over pipes and gas line and everything?
My condo, built in 1979, has attic with my A/C and only insulation on the "floor." Do I need to put insulation on the rafters too?
If the attic is unfinished space, insulation just on floor. From what I understand, insulation on rafters only if it is being converted into living space. By A/C in your attic, do you mean your air handler?
Could spray foam be used on the roof area???
Would another option be to add closed spray foam insulation to the nooks in the attic sealing?
Yes. That would make most of the other insulation unnecessary. Probably should hire a pro for that though.
Looking for advice, what insulation should i use on an attached to house garage wall? Paper out with a poly vapor barrier? Or no paper with a poly barrier? Thank you very much.
Paper toward the living space, no poly barrier in climate zone 3, central Georgia. Your climate or state/local codes may vary.
I been watching videos that said you need to make sure attic/joints/joists/fixtures are sealed because air escapes and insulation isn't effective.
The best example someone has explained is a jacket with a zipper. If temps are zero your losing a ton of heat from your jacket fast. Will you notice at 40 degrees? Not nearly as much.
Is the plywood on top of the insulation a vapor barrier?
Our cellulose is blowing into the house through the ac vents we only have fiberglass wrapped around the air ducts and cellulose that has been compromised due to water damage throughout the attic. What would you consider the best way to avoid cellulose traveling through the ducts- we have roofing being done soon- this is an older home in texas & we want to avoid high cost, & be prepared for roofing leaks/ damage in the future as well. Should we remove the old cellulose & replace it along with out flooring? Thanks for the info
Just replace with fiberglass.
Looks like the first order of business would be to address cleaning/clearing all the damaged stuff. Then move onto the HVAC system. Plenum/conducts/vents should be sealed from outer elements. The conducts should only allow trough, clean air blown by the system, not other "things" hanging nearby. Aluminum tape and a can of foam spray are most helpful for this.
Notice these two stages can be 100% DIY, cut a lot of cost.
From there, with everything nice and tidy, it´s a breeze to lay the insulation material of your choice. Preparation is always the key. ;-)
Shouldn’t the old rock wool be removed for mold?
How about Foam around lights and top plates, Then rent blow machine from Lowes and blow cellulose or fiber glass up to R60.it is so much easier, faster and better job.If you do it this way you will save a lot .
Never foam lights
@@Cleanlean69 If you use fireblock foam you CERTAINLY can.
Do you need an air gap below the OSB, between the top of the fiberglass insulation and the OSB?
I'm looking for information on how to clean the eve vents around my house? Or someone to contact to do he work
Can we use blown-in insulation instead?
I asked a salesman for perhaps the largest luxury home builder in the country how often buyers asked about attic insulation. He said maybe twice in 20 years.
look at all that succulent house flesh
Dean Wild lmbo......
@@LightGesture I don't get it.
@@specialk22tt lol
Sometimes....it's good not to understand a youtube comment.
So spreading blown in by hand works just as well??
Yes it does. I did this in my hallway of our house and it worked well. I fluffed it outside using a paint or mud stir stick on my drill in a bin and then carried into the house. It worked well.
I didn't see any baffles. Were they in the attic?
Perfect for the bees to nest n take over
no baffles for air circulation ???
Hey, this great thank you. However, I did not hear mention of a vapor barrier. Was there one needed? The old isolation that was left and added to did not seem to have one either. I have a very similar situation and I am hoping you can answer my question before I proceed with the solution you presented in this video, thank You!
At the beginning he mentions that a vapor barrier is not needed because it would just trap water between the layers of insulation rendering them useless.
Tree Gaming I didn't catch that. Thank you for the response.
your vapor barrier is drywall primer and paint below
Can you put insulation in attic and keep in plastic?
I have no insulation over my garage. I think its because theres a lot of wires, tubes, etc, maybe the thought is to better find them, they kept them from any insulation.
But, my garage is very cold and then too hot in summer. I thought, if the bundles of insulation could be put over the garage. I can easily move them if need access.
But, I wanted to ask a knowledgeable person.
Thanks and God bless
Does anyone know how to soundproof a duplex separating fire-partition wall? My home was built in the year 1900.
Keep up the good work #thisoldhouse
Could have addressed a variety of additional issues: Soffit vents, hurricane clips, canister light ratings, how to insulate the attic access...
That was one extremely skewed joist I saw; should that be blocked in during construction? Just toenailed?
If there were electric lines laid across the joists (shame on the builder of my home) would you build a protected channel (2x4's?) or just assume no one will ever walk across the hidden joists again?
I don't think I would subject those joists to the weight of that 2x10 frame and any stored items unless there was a interior wall under those rafters to help bear the load.
Yes I agree, venting is something that was missed, plus you should put the Batt first and the loose fill after or else you crush the loose fill... Checkout my attic insulation channel to see more examples.
@@SinnisjInsulator the bats were installed perpendicular to the joists. So their weight is supported by the joists and they will not crush the loose fill underneath
when I had to work in an attic as an electrician, there was no real walkway and you had to crawl through a double hatch. The ceiling was low so you had to crawl on your knees along the cross pieces.
I wish you would've addressed ventilation in the attic.
I have that insulation in my attic, any asbestos in that? House was built in '64.
Wonder how many cans of expanding foam would it take to fill that huge void? Nice a toasty
What did it cost you for the insulation ?
I live in apt building
1st floor downstairs is a bsmnt and there is a storage room
And the People take the staff at 4 am in the morning
They make a lot of noise.
What i can do my floor or downstairs the ciling.
Pls I want above this problem
Every morning at 4 am they wake me up 😢😢
Hello, I see that you did not put any venting in. Should this also be done?
It has a large window in each gable end that can be opened. Many,many older homes don't have a lot of vents and have done just fine.
Nah..fuk it
What’s all the (black - dark) stuff on the old insulation?
What about the roof we have spray foam and in summer it very cool and winter with no vents it stay 63•
Should he have also vented his attic? When should you and when shouldn't you?
An attic doesn't need to be vented, a roof does, usually, depending on how much moisture. You can have a completely sealed house with an ERV/HRV with a conditioned attic if your roof has battons venting the roofing to stop ice dams and stuff.
Seems like such an archaic method
Me: "This looks like a sand individual"
TOH: "Oriented strand board"
Me: "Nevermind"
I am going to change the roofline of part of my home. I have an opportunity to remove the floor of the second storey part of the house. When I do it, is it a good idea to lay in loose cellulose insulation in that air space which is the ceiling space of the first floor? Seems if I want to hold heat inside the first floor room, I wouldn't want to loose it to the dead airspace between the floors. I know heat rises, but I don't expect the loss of heat from the first floor to transfer up to the second floor. It will only get trapped into the dead air space in between ceiling below and floor above. I can only imagine in all homes this dead airspace is going to be always cold, so why loose heat to it and it not transfer to your benefit. I don't believe the loss of heat will transfer to a warmer floor above. it sure would be great to get your guy's professional opinion. Thanks for responding.
what about sealing the air leaks first?
Yes first sealing, is crucial
Do you not have to leave a gap for ventilation?
I'm guessing gable venting in that old house, so no. Soffit venting would require a rafter baffle to avoid plugging the vent. Is my understanding after much research. Lmk if you found anything different.
0:11 is that really mineral wool insulation? I didn't know it had a loose fill method.
It does =)
Can’t find that insulation knife anymore
He should’ve installed R-60 insulation. R-60 gives you the best energy savings and ultimate comfort.
For all those saying to convert that attic into a usable room, consider the access seems to be a hatch in the ceiling, which is probably in the middle of a hallway now. Moving that access to make a stairs is going to take up near 50 sq ft of living space on the floor below (bedroom?) plus thousands of $$$ in finish work, not counting any finish work on the attic space.
A lot of assumptions made here.
Don't forget that the attic wasn't designed as a living space. It is not designed to hold the weight of people and furniture and additional framing, drywall, etc. To make the attic into a usable room you will need to restructure the floor and the support for the floor. It would be a huge job.
And your point is…?
Just kidding valid points.
I had this junk insulation in my attic, then brought in a company to use a truck vacuum to remove it all, and then had them install two layers of pink fiberglass insulation into the clean bays. The whole job cost about $1,600 which isn't bad at all. I would not recommend leaving that junk in the attic.
That’s super cheap compared to all quotes I got, at least double. Probably depends on attic size though
@@Cflaquatics it varys alot on size
Wow 1600 is very good price
Layers? Attics require blown in or spray foam. If you are referring to fiberglass batts they work more like an air filter in an attic application. They are meant to be used in an air sealed cavity in order to get the R value advertised
@@fn18pack Two layers laid perpendicular to each other works perfectly. It's about 20 inches thick in total. I didn't want spray foam or blown in (which is messier and more porous than a fiberglass batt). Now it's simple to work on wiring, install a ceiling fan in the bathroom, etc. The insulation performance with regards to energy usage and temperature comfort has been excellent.
How do you get the blown in stuff or the loose fiberglass out???
With a vacuum
What do you do around the cement chimney there? Can you put insulation directly in contact with it, or would that create moisture build-up?
i want to know too
I believe there is normally a gap between chimneys and joists. You are supposed to flash around the chimneyto make sure the insulation is at least three inches away from it
No air sealing first??
my attic is in a similar situation. I want to do the same thing in this video. how much will this insulatuon material cost?
i bought ~60 square meters of insulation for ~100 euros (enought for attic my size + some extra hopfuly)
It should cost you right around 32 million USD
My attic has a silver sheets. Same stuff my water heater wrapped in.. Is this good???
No
Some sellers of 'radiant barrier' claim so. Needs more research.