To financially to the channel through Paypal: www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=5PRRGY4GM2CSE¤cy_code=USD As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases: Parts I used: Hub and Bearing Assemblies (x2): amzn.to/3lsKJWt Thrust Washer Snap Ring Kit: amzn.to/3jFD4nn Ball Joints (x2): amzn.to/3lqw0vp U Joints (x2): amzn.to/3nAQVxN Axle Shaft Seal (x2): amzn.to/3iNFbUO Spindle Seal (x2): amzn.to/3iM3D90 Tools I Purchased: U Joint / Ball Joint Press: amzn.to/2FkLWA0 Axle Shaft Seal Installer: amzn.to/3jJfA0A Snap Ring Pliers (quality set): amzn.to/2GNOAhW
only hard part on here,is the vacuum seal.. almost impossible without some tool. just done vac seal,shaft seal,u joint,new hub, was going to fit lunch locker,but these axles are still old d- 60,30 spline,i got the 35 spline kit. n f good..i cant believe ford skimped on that. saved me a days work..
i allways clean parts, & paint after or during assembly,even axle shafts,along with crc,grease,lithium grease. on all parts,threads. or never seize. painting when finished helps. not a permanent fix,but helps. plus vac caps on all zerks. raised my front 2",with bronco rear blocks,angled diff up a little, . free blocks off my bronc,plus 3"5 blocks off f100 in rear..
32 mm socket.. had to buy specially for a job. use it a lot. get yourself a decent socket set, t/wrench. 3/4" socket set with a reducer to 1/2" . life saver.
Your work is better than the long time channels. I should mention why: “you record and play video of the true ‘grunt work,’ most channels edit out the frustrating portions and skip ahead.” I have a 2000 F-350 V-10, Dana 50 front axle and 10.5 Sterling rear axle. My kiddos and I love the ‘Tank.’ I would recommend one tool for you on making the ‘non-serviceable’ 4wd hubs serviceable. Riff raff diesel front abs grease block off with Royal Purple grease. Your hubs will have longer service life.
Just got a quote for 900 for my ball joints... I got everything off today up to the axle shaft being pulled. Its jammed in real good. Called it a wrap on the day and now watching lots of videos on the subject. Glad I found yours also. Truly enjoyed your perspective on it. Regular dude just gettin er done!! Also gonna go ahead with all the tie rods, thanks to your other video. Hope you keep the camera rolling.
Great video man and nice truck! I have my 7.3L overdue for ball joints, hubs, bearings, seals, and pretty much all front end maintenance. I'm glad I watched your video first honestly. I feel the same way I'm not a mechanic but I try to do 100% of the maintenance.
Thanks for the compliment and the comment! I was in the trades myself and can't stand charging people these insane prices. Likewise when I go to a mechanic and the tell me $250 to replace a thermostat that I could change in 15 minutes plus a bleed...there just ain't no way lol. That being said my 350z is at the shop as I type, they are doing the water pump on it. I've always wanted a 7.3!
I purchased an 2002 F250 7 months ago and I plan on doing everything you went through in this video! I am mechanically inclined and have worked on my own cars for the last 45 years, though not a mechanic. Your tutorial is clear and easy to follow, explaining the entire process from start to finish! Thanks for a great class!
Hi, it was fun to watch your video. I am not a mechanic but I watched Vidoe like yours to learn how to service for my 2005 F350. Now I can do the same thing. Thanks.
I watched your video a few times before doing all this. Very mechanically inclined but I still like to see it done if it's out there. This was way easier than I was expecting but none of the stuff I was removing was original except the axles. Hub came off after the last nut came loose amd ball joints broke loose easily. Worst thing was prying the axle out because I don't have prybars. I will add to anybody watching this and somehow see this comment, Powerbuilt kit 46 is the ball joint press kit you want for every attachment you need. I would also STRONGLY recommend getting the 1/2" Milwaukee high torque (2767-20) impact. Using that and the ball joint press, old ball joints came out in about 5 seconds each, and about the same amount of time to press the new ones in. Easy. As far as the U joint removal goes, that was not as easy for me, as those C clips didn't come out very easily. So what I did was hit on the caps a few times each with the sledge hammer amd that broke them loose enough to get the C clips out. Unfortunately I didn't even realize my outer shaft was gouged pretty good from the hub so I had to buy a new one, so I just bought 2. I did cryogenic rotors and Hawks pads last year so my brakes are good. Pretty much replace everything minus suspension.
So that dust seal on the back end really just flops around like that ordinarily? I just put my passenger side in with the new seal on, and I feel like it didn't seat but can't tell how it even seals.haha. the big one that goes inside the knuckle definitely sealed because it doesn't move at all.
The hub seal tool - I agree it's worth it. I tried using a homemade version and got the first side on, but it took forever and I ended up damaging the first seal. Even with the tool, I couldn't get the damn thing to start with a mallet after about 20 minutes of trying. I resorted to using a log splitter as a hydraulic press and it worked like a charm. Without the tool, the homemade version required a LOT more screwing around. I may sell the tool on ebay after I'm done, but I may still have enough friends with the old trucks to warrant keeping it for now. Thanks for the walk-through!
Haha the struggle is real! Yeah I've held onto mine and I've used it on my second truck as well. Sucks to buy a one time use tool but worth it either way
Wow awesome video man! Keep these up. Better than %99 of all mechanic videos. Tip on that thrust washer too much grease stops the ESOF hubs from engaging(plugs up the vacuum route). Thanks man!
Thanks for the comment/feedback! Good note on the grease, personally I am not using the vacuum system anymore as this truck no longer has the auto locking hubs. But absolutely correct, if using the vacuum then the grease could get in the way. Thank you!
Cool video man I’m going to check out all your repair videos. I’m about to buy this exact truck for my son first vehicle and it needs all this stuff done
Heck yeah! I have a handful of them. I also have a Blue f250 same generation as the white one just a different engine so a lot of those videos are applicable as well
Sir i started to do ball joints on my 99 F250 7.3 and i started to tight with torque wrench by specs but i still couldn’t donit right the joints got so tight so the steering went so tight and i re open again i spend half a day trying to make it right but i still couldn’t until i saw your video than it worked i did exact same way you did thankyou a lot!!!
You have a big vice there that would be perfect for pressing in the u-joints using sockets. This is usually more precise and causes less damage than hammering them in.
Right you are about the vice/sockets lol. Live and learn I guess haha! No harm was done to nee components and I got a workout so still a win right? Lol
I've been using a hammer and block to remove/ install U joints for close to 30 years, haven't lost one yet. Works just fine if you pay attention to details.
@@carlspackler91 A hammer, wood, sockets, etc. can all be used successfully, or in an emergency roadside fix, if you pay attention as you say, and are careful. That said, it is not the best way to do the installation as there is a greater chance of damage from an errant hammer blow, hammering on mis-aligned parts, etc. The correct ball joint press, vice, etc. are always preferred as they lessen the chance for damage, and it is easy to tell if things are not aligned properly during the installation. I have seen guys changing pistol sights by placing the slide in a vice and "drifting" them out with a hammer and punch. This can also work, but it is not the preferred method, especially on an expensive gun. A sight press doesn't cost that much ( as compared to the value of the gun) and offers a much finer adjustment potential than a hammer and punch without the potential chance of damage.
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yes indeed... I am about 3/4 thru except I discovered one of the yokes on the driver side is bent slightly inward and I am replacing the entire drive side shaft. Bummer but will be back on track. Doing this without a vice and mostly on the garage floor. (sent a little thanks thru PP)
@@biodveghead9535 I see it, thank you! You are awesome :) Let me know hoe the rest of the job goes. I just did the bearings on the powerstroke and ended up needing a new shaft as well. Seized to the bearing. (Video on that as well) but this video covers it as well
I wanna see how you skidded that F250 sideways into the garage. Now that's a video! I should have videoed when my needle bearing fell sideways, then the forever magnet/wire get them out to do it again. Yep, BUY the TOOL! I didn't tried the 3"PVC trick. Buy the Tool.
Great vedeo mate 👍 I need exactly do the same thing on my excursión 7.3! Both sides also but I don't have thar Great tool for replacing a ball joints 🤔 will see what is going on 😏 well done 👏 that's a lot work 🤔
@@AGuyandHisProjects hi mate can you tell me where I can buying a inside seal on axle shaft? You replaced also I see on vedeo but I buying on rockauto a both seals but the inside seal not fit!!🤔🙄😕 can you send me a link on page you buying that seals 👌👍 I appreciate much thanks have a great day cheers from Norway 👋
I have a 2000 Excursion, I also replaced everything under my truck. same processes. Using an impact gun will damage the threads on the C press you used for the ball joints. I boogered mine up and spent an hour recutting the threads. Maybe I should have heated the ball joints up first 🙂Great video!
@@AGuyandHisProjects Did you apply grease on the thrust washer? I see where some guys do, but not sure why. It's the one that goes on before the hub. Thanks in advance
It was crazy dude! Took some drifting and some skillzzzzzz haha. More like a series of backing up 8 inches and forward 6 and back and forward and back and forward lol...a bit tedious
Changed them to stay ahead of them. I hate when preventable brakes happen so figure if I take café of issues before they are issues I can prevent a lot of issues lol. Getting her in sideways involves speed and e-brake ;) ;)
On your parts list, this list is for doing both driver and passenger side axles correct? On the ball joints you listed quantity 2, shouldnt that be a quantity of 4 to do both sides? I just want to make sure I am thinking correctly. Thanks, Bret
I have a 2001 F350 4x4. Is all the parts here that you linked in the description same? Or are some of them slightly different? Great video btw, thank you. I do have vacuum hubs and its the 7.3l PSD instead of the V10. Any idea?
Thanks for watching! I believe all the parts I linked are the parts needed to do the job. Typically if I duplicate I'll type out "option" in front of the link
Ugh just when I thought I was done spending money on my truck for a little bit lol... ball joint time! With the ball joint/u joint press you bought, did you need to buy any of the Ford adapters for it? I'm pretty sure you didn't buy any but I'm wanting to make sure before I go and order stuff. Awesome video thanks for making this. I do all my work myself however I had a shop quote me for every thing you did (and what I'll do). They said $1,450 was what it would cost me. Probably what it would have cost you too just fyi...
Thanks for watching and the comment! Yeah, I cannot afford to take my vehicles in for everything, no freaking way lol. The ball joint press I have was capable to doing the entire ball joint job in and of itself yes. Very much worth the money. The only special part I used is for the axel seal inside the knuckle. I belive I have that linked as well. Let me know how it goes!
Man do I wish I had a lift!!! I hate doing jobs like that sitting on the ground haha. I’m glad I did that job. Had shot ball joints, seals, and a drivers side wheel bearing. Thanks again for the video! FYI the Napa rewards add up quick owning these trucks but I’ve found it’s one of the better rewards programs hahahah
@@SamsShed glad you got through it! Yeah rewards programs are nice when you use them on a regular basis. I just bought a 4 post lift bit it is a small one to fit in my garage, so the cars and vans fit but now my truck doesn't even fit inside the garage lol
I do not personally. Very few bolts on vehicles in my personal experience call for loctite. Typically speaking it is all done by Torque specs. When adding loctite and even antisieze you change the load on the threads
@@dylanturley7291 hard to say without seeing in person. As parts wear they will loosen up for sure. But that doesn't necessarily mean they are worn. Wiggle room would be more of an indicator I would think
@@AGuyandHisProjectsI feel this, It’s something that i get grief over. But i like fixing things on my timeframe especially if it’s not horrible expensive. Than have it have me fix it when it demands it
Hey man, we are all a family! I am learning from you , we learn from each other. Hey and the pandemic messed us all up in some way. But really thx for this video. I have a 04 F250 needs this same thing. Thx again.
I have 2000 f250 XL 5.4L and it has manual locking hubs on front axles .. it is really vibrating and humming at various speeds really noticeable when I’m on the throttle and it tends to stop when I’m off the gas.. truck has 165k on it. I did complete rear seals and hub bearings in March because I noticed rear drum assembly (rear main brakes are disc but e Brake is drum inside the rotors) buf it was all wet with gear lube.. so rear is good but I did notice my front axle is wet with lube are my seals and u joints causing vibration? Looking for a definitive test to tell what needs replaced ? Great video it looks like I could do that job.. thanks 👍🏻
Hard to tell with not being there. When I am trying to locate a noise I usually start with having my wife jump in the vehicle and slowly drive down the street while I walk next to it to at least pinpoint which corner is the issue. Then sometimes you can jack it up and spin the tire by hand in and out of locked hubs. In my experience U-joints are typically a high pitched squeal. Let me know what you figure out!
@@AGuyandHisProjects thanks yep all good investigative techniques.. I think I have a bad carrier bearing (2000 f250 super duty 2 piece drive shaft) looking at a lot of videos with similar symptoms.. I pulled my hubs up front and the axle u joints seem fine .. I didn’t pull the axels so I didn’t disturb the seals I think I’ll find the problem with xfer case u joint, carrier and rear diff u joint.. gonna inspect all that today and likely drop the drive shaft today .. now I have it in my shop.. thanks for your great video and reply 👍🏻
@@virtisconsole12 it sounds like the same noise my 2000 F350 super duty 7.3l is making, lol. I've narrowed it down to the carrier bearing also, just waiting on it to get here, suppose to have been delivered today but USPS picked it up in FL on the 26th and just bypassed NC and it went to MD, smh. Anyhow, I'll be replacing everything he just did in his video, both sides. And I may also replace all the U-joints on my driveshaft since it's got 207,000 miles on her. Hope everything worked out for ya Michael. 👍👍
Oh shoot I don't know lol. I just snag them off youtube studio. There are a LOT of what I would consider duplicat songs with different names. Maybe I'll start trying to reference them as a subtitle as they play
2001 F250 DIESEL, CHANGED WHEEL BEARING AND WARN LOCK IN LOCK OUT HUBS. WHEN IN 4X4 LEFT SIDE SEEMS TO SHAKE WHEEL BACK N FORTH WHEN TURNING AROUND ?? ANY HELP ?? EVERYTHING WAS CLEANED AND LUBED.
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Parts I used:
Hub and Bearing Assemblies (x2): amzn.to/3lsKJWt
Thrust Washer Snap Ring Kit: amzn.to/3jFD4nn
Ball Joints (x2): amzn.to/3lqw0vp
U Joints (x2): amzn.to/3nAQVxN
Axle Shaft Seal (x2): amzn.to/3iNFbUO
Spindle Seal (x2): amzn.to/3iM3D90
Tools I Purchased:
U Joint / Ball Joint Press: amzn.to/2FkLWA0
Axle Shaft Seal Installer: amzn.to/3jJfA0A
Snap Ring Pliers (quality set): amzn.to/2GNOAhW
only hard part on here,is the vacuum seal.. almost impossible without some tool. just done vac seal,shaft seal,u joint,new hub, was going to fit lunch locker,but these axles are still old d- 60,30 spline,i got the 35 spline kit. n f good..i cant believe ford skimped on that. saved me a days work..
oh yeh,,less with the hands,i dont know where to look..
DAMN, never hit the thread,put the nut on flush.. to get it out easy,,use a bottle jack under the arm,pressure it up then hit the knuckle.easy..
i allways clean parts, & paint after or during assembly,even axle shafts,along with crc,grease,lithium grease. on all parts,threads. or never seize. painting when finished helps. not a permanent fix,but helps. plus vac caps on all zerks. raised my front 2",with bronco rear blocks,angled diff up a little, . free blocks off my bronc,plus 3"5 blocks off f100 in rear..
32 mm socket.. had to buy specially for a job. use it a lot. get yourself a decent socket set, t/wrench. 3/4" socket set with a reducer to 1/2" . life saver.
This is the second video I have watched of you working on this truck. I'm impressed! These are great tutorials. Thank you.
That's an awesome comment! Thanks and glad I can help :)
Man your video is so well made. Thank you for the Amazon parts list and clarity.
You are most welcome! Thank you for the comment, always good to hear positive feedback! Let me know how it goes when you tackle yours
Your work is better than the long time channels. I should mention why: “you record and play video of the true ‘grunt work,’ most channels edit out the frustrating portions and skip ahead.” I have a 2000 F-350 V-10, Dana 50 front axle and 10.5 Sterling rear axle. My kiddos and I love the ‘Tank.’ I would recommend one tool for you on making the ‘non-serviceable’ 4wd hubs serviceable. Riff raff diesel front abs grease block off with Royal Purple grease. Your hubs will have longer service life.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback :)
i have a 2001 F350 V10 and am planning to do essentially all the work you've done to mine :D
Nice, it is well worth it...and it'll keep you busy for a day in the garage lol. Let me know how it goes!
Just got a quote for 900 for my ball joints... I got everything off today up to the axle shaft being pulled. Its jammed in real good. Called it a wrap on the day and now watching lots of videos on the subject. Glad I found yours also. Truly enjoyed your perspective on it. Regular dude just gettin er done!! Also gonna go ahead with all the tie rods, thanks to your other video. Hope you keep the camera rolling.
Awesome! Glad I can help :). Yep camera is still rolling so stay tuned!
Great video man and nice truck! I have my 7.3L overdue for ball joints, hubs, bearings, seals, and pretty much all front end maintenance. I'm glad I watched your video first honestly. I feel the same way I'm not a mechanic but I try to do 100% of the maintenance.
Thanks for the compliment and the comment! I was in the trades myself and can't stand charging people these insane prices. Likewise when I go to a mechanic and the tell me $250 to replace a thermostat that I could change in 15 minutes plus a bleed...there just ain't no way lol. That being said my 350z is at the shop as I type, they are doing the water pump on it. I've always wanted a 7.3!
Boot Wrench Baby !! You are a mechanic if you have 90% success. That is better than I see with shops I have been to. Good Video. Thanks !
Haha! Thanks
I purchased an 2002 F250 7 months ago and I plan on doing everything you went through in this video! I am mechanically inclined and have worked on my own cars for the last 45 years, though not a mechanic. Your tutorial is clear and easy to follow, explaining the entire process from start to finish! Thanks for a great class!
I appreciate the comment! Glad to help
Hi, it was fun to watch your video. I am not a mechanic but I watched Vidoe like yours to learn how to service for my 2005 F350. Now I can do the same thing. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and glad I can help! I am all about the DIY mentality and happy I am able to share that
I watched your video a few times before doing all this. Very mechanically inclined but I still like to see it done if it's out there. This was way easier than I was expecting but none of the stuff I was removing was original except the axles. Hub came off after the last nut came loose amd ball joints broke loose easily. Worst thing was prying the axle out because I don't have prybars. I will add to anybody watching this and somehow see this comment, Powerbuilt kit 46 is the ball joint press kit you want for every attachment you need. I would also STRONGLY recommend getting the 1/2" Milwaukee high torque (2767-20) impact. Using that and the ball joint press, old ball joints came out in about 5 seconds each, and about the same amount of time to press the new ones in. Easy. As far as the U joint removal goes, that was not as easy for me, as those C clips didn't come out very easily. So what I did was hit on the caps a few times each with the sledge hammer amd that broke them loose enough to get the C clips out. Unfortunately I didn't even realize my outer shaft was gouged pretty good from the hub so I had to buy a new one, so I just bought 2. I did cryogenic rotors and Hawks pads last year so my brakes are good. Pretty much replace everything minus suspension.
Heck yeah, glad I could help! Thanks for the thought out comment and helping others as well 👍
So that dust seal on the back end really just flops around like that ordinarily? I just put my passenger side in with the new seal on, and I feel like it didn't seat but can't tell how it even seals.haha. the big one that goes inside the knuckle definitely sealed because it doesn't move at all.
@@Someguysayingstuff yeah the other one will inevitably come loose, kinda a silly design that is rather useless lol
The hub seal tool - I agree it's worth it. I tried using a homemade version and got the first side on, but it took forever and I ended up damaging the first seal. Even with the tool, I couldn't get the damn thing to start with a mallet after about 20 minutes of trying. I resorted to using a log splitter as a hydraulic press and it worked like a charm. Without the tool, the homemade version required a LOT more screwing around. I may sell the tool on ebay after I'm done, but I may still have enough friends with the old trucks to warrant keeping it for now. Thanks for the walk-through!
Haha the struggle is real! Yeah I've held onto mine and I've used it on my second truck as well. Sucks to buy a one time use tool but worth it either way
That ball joint kit that you used also works for your universal joints. Great video, thanks.
You are the second to tell me that! Wish I had though of that when I was doing this job hahaha. Thanks for the comment :)
Wow awesome video man! Keep these up. Better than %99 of all mechanic videos. Tip on that thrust washer too much grease stops the ESOF hubs from engaging(plugs up the vacuum route). Thanks man!
Thanks for the comment/feedback! Good note on the grease, personally I am not using the vacuum system anymore as this truck no longer has the auto locking hubs. But absolutely correct, if using the vacuum then the grease could get in the way. Thank you!
This will be my weekend. Good stuff brother, thank you.
You are most welcome! Glad I can help
Great to see this whole job! You've given me faith that I can do this :) thanks man
Glad I can help, let me know how it goes!
Awesome vid!!! 💯 kinda vid I need in my life. Perfect descriptions & step by step for my 03, 7.3 Excursion
Awesome, glad I can help! Let me know how it goes!
saved this video...i need to do all of this(Except ujoints) to my 03 f250
Awesome! Hope it helps, let me know how it goes when you tackle it!
might as well do them while youre in there
Cool video man I’m going to check out all your repair videos. I’m about to buy this exact truck for my son first vehicle and it needs all this stuff done
Heck yeah! I have a handful of them. I also have a Blue f250 same generation as the white one just a different engine so a lot of those videos are applicable as well
Sir i started to do ball joints on my 99 F250 7.3 and i started to tight with torque wrench by specs but i still couldn’t donit right the joints got so tight so the steering went so tight and i re open again i spend half a day trying to make it right but i still couldn’t until i saw your video than it worked i did exact same way you did
thankyou a lot!!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks for this comprehensive tutorial!
You are most welcome!
You have a big vice there that would be perfect for pressing in the u-joints using sockets. This is usually more precise and causes less damage than hammering them in.
Right you are about the vice/sockets lol. Live and learn I guess haha! No harm was done to nee components and I got a workout so still a win right? Lol
The ball joint press also works for u joints with the right adapters
I've been using a hammer and block to remove/ install U joints for close to 30 years, haven't lost one yet.
Works just fine if you pay attention to details.
@@carlspackler91 A hammer, wood, sockets, etc. can all be used successfully, or in an emergency roadside fix, if you pay attention as you say, and are careful. That said, it is not the best way to do the installation as there is a greater chance of damage from an errant hammer blow, hammering on mis-aligned parts, etc. The correct ball joint press, vice, etc. are always preferred as they lessen the chance for damage, and it is easy to tell if things are not aligned properly during the installation. I have seen guys changing pistol sights by placing the slide in a vice and "drifting" them out with a hammer and punch. This can also work, but it is not the preferred method, especially on an expensive gun. A sight press doesn't cost that much ( as compared to the value of the gun) and offers a much finer adjustment potential than a hammer and punch without the potential chance of damage.
Exactly what I was talking ab. Perfect
Glad I can help!
Just the Video i needed - Need to do the same parts replacement.
Thanks for watching and glad I can help! Let me know how it goes!
Outstanding Video!! Start to finish. Nice
Thanks! I appreciate that. You tackling this project?
@@AGuyandHisProjects Yes indeed... I am about 3/4 thru except I discovered one of the yokes on the driver side is bent slightly inward and I am replacing the entire drive side shaft. Bummer but will be back on track. Doing this without a vice and mostly on the garage floor. (sent a little thanks thru PP)
@@biodveghead9535 I see it, thank you! You are awesome :)
Let me know hoe the rest of the job goes. I just did the bearings on the powerstroke and ended up needing a new shaft as well. Seized to the bearing. (Video on that as well) but this video covers it as well
Your video was great and just what I needed!
Glad I can help! Let me know how it goes when you get er tackled
Holy this helped a ton
Awesome, glad to hear!
You can use the ball joint press to remove the universal joints.
I have since learned this and yep, easier.
Thanks… followed ur vid to get a axle shaft u joint done🤝
Glad I could help!
Tools truck and a good attitude.
And a wee bit of sweat ;)
great video man thank you ill be doing this myself soon Im gonna order the axle seal tool as well. Thank you
Awesome! Glad I could help! Let me know how it goes:)
@@AGuyandHisProjects for sure debating if i should do the Ujoints while there.
@@ChrisNieves my motto is more or less do it now while it is easy and convenient, or later when it isn't lol
She is lookin good man🙌🙌🙌
Heck yeah! Thanks1
Your awesome man! Very detailed. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and glad I can help! Let me know how it goes :)
Awesome video…thanks for demystifying the process!
You are most welcome, let me know how it goes!
Great video brother thank you so much, watching this video make me man up lol 👍
Haha always happy to help! Let me know how it goes
@@AGuyandHisProjects FYI goes putty good for my first time thanks again my man.
@@AGuyandHisProjects FYI goes putty good for my first time thanks again my man.
NICE WORK
Thanks!
I wanna see how you skidded that F250 sideways into the garage. Now that's a video! I should have videoed when my needle bearing fell sideways, then the forever magnet/wire get them out to do it again. Yep, BUY the TOOL! I didn't tried the 3"PVC trick. Buy the Tool.
hahahaha on the skidding into the garage lol. Yes, the tool is money well spent, even if you only do it once.
Thank you , great video
Glad I can help!
Wish videos was like your vids, your video is to the T 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Great vedeo mate 👍 I need exactly do the same thing on my excursión 7.3! Both sides also but I don't have thar Great tool for replacing a ball joints 🤔 will see what is going on 😏 well done 👏 that's a lot work 🤔
It takes a whole but isn't overly difficult, I have that tool linked in video description, life saver!
@@AGuyandHisProjects hi mate can you tell me where I can buying a inside seal on axle shaft? You replaced also I see on vedeo but I buying on rockauto a both seals but the inside seal not fit!!🤔🙄😕 can you send me a link on page you buying that seals 👌👍 I appreciate much thanks have a great day cheers from Norway 👋
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 4W 4D (Stock)
Hope the video helps! What engine do you have in the 2016?
Nov2020 I bough my F250 6.2L gas I have no problem now but preparing now with Ball Joint Tools & Torque nut sheet👍🏿😀
I have a 2000 Excursion, I also replaced everything under my truck. same processes.
Using an impact gun will damage the threads on the C press you used for the ball joints. I boogered mine up and spent an hour recutting the threads. Maybe I should have heated the ball joints up first 🙂Great video!
Lots of work ain't it! I am about 2 dozen jobs in doing ball joints that way with the impact and she still looks good!
Only wrecks them if you're an idiot
You definitely applied a lot of elbow grease! I surprised that you don't seem to have a bench vise?
Gotta grow as you go! Buy things when I can to upgrade the garage
Nice video thanks for the info.
Thanks and you are welcome! Glad I can help
Stick a long socket or something in behind the hub and start the truck. Then turn the wheel and it pushes the hub right off
Thanks for watching and the advise! I'll have to remember that on the next go-round
Great vídeo thank you very much
You are most welcome!
Nice video man! Thanks
You are most welcome! Let me know how it goes!
@@AGuyandHisProjects Did you apply grease on the thrust washer? I see where some guys do, but not sure why. It's the one that goes on before the hub. Thanks in advance
@@cutum I want to say I think I did put grease on due to not being sure if it was needed lol. Never caused any issues and I use 4wd frequently
@@AGuyandHisProjects Cool. Thanks man!
Upper 69 ftlbs lower is 150ftlbs
Thanks for commenting with that info, always helpful :)
great vid
Thanks, hope it helped!
I like how the truck was sideways in the garage… how did you get it in there like that
It was crazy dude! Took some drifting and some skillzzzzzz haha. More like a series of backing up 8 inches and forward 6 and back and forward and back and forward lol...a bit tedious
Why did you change them? what was the issue?
How did you get that truck in your garage, looks like it's sitting sideways.
Changed them to stay ahead of them. I hate when preventable brakes happen so figure if I take café of issues before they are issues I can prevent a lot of issues lol. Getting her in sideways involves speed and e-brake ;) ;)
That was the first thing I noticed was the truck sideways. Lol
On your parts list, this list is for doing both driver and passenger side axles correct? On the ball joints you listed quantity 2, shouldnt that be a quantity of 4 to do both sides? I just want to make sure I am thinking correctly. Thanks, Bret
Should have two upper total and two lower total, not sure what I linked, this video was a hot minute ago lol.
Did you have wandering and constantly having to be correcting the steering prior to fixing the the ball joints and front axle u joints ..?
Great video
Thanks! Loose/worn front end parts can cause wandering yeah, especially on a solid front axle type truck.
Would the press not also work on the ujoints
It typically can indeed!
I have a 2001 F350 4x4. Is all the parts here that you linked in the description same? Or are some of them slightly different? Great video btw, thank you.
I do have vacuum hubs and its the 7.3l PSD instead of the V10. Any idea?
Thanks for watching! I believe all the parts I linked are the parts needed to do the job. Typically if I duplicate I'll type out "option" in front of the link
3:32 spiral lock ring, if no one already said it.
Thanks
Nice!
Thanks for watching!
Appriciate the video!
You are most welcome, hope it helps!
great video
Thanks!
You're going to have a brand new truck soon!
Ha! That's what you get when you buy maintenence neglected vehicles lol. I have fun with them though
What manual lockers do you have, my stock hub lockers didn’t fit the timken hub
These are Warn hubs
It had to must pressure when you beat the u joint to far it pinchs it’s not how you tighten the bolts
Interesting, thanks for the comment!
Ugh just when I thought I was done spending money on my truck for a little bit lol... ball joint time! With the ball joint/u joint press you bought, did you need to buy any of the Ford adapters for it? I'm pretty sure you didn't buy any but I'm wanting to make sure before I go and order stuff. Awesome video thanks for making this.
I do all my work myself however I had a shop quote me for every thing you did (and what I'll do). They said $1,450 was what it would cost me. Probably what it would have cost you too just fyi...
Thanks for watching and the comment! Yeah, I cannot afford to take my vehicles in for everything, no freaking way lol. The ball joint press I have was capable to doing the entire ball joint job in and of itself yes. Very much worth the money. The only special part I used is for the axel seal inside the knuckle. I belive I have that linked as well. Let me know how it goes!
Man do I wish I had a lift!!! I hate doing jobs like that sitting on the ground haha. I’m glad I did that job. Had shot ball joints, seals, and a drivers side wheel bearing. Thanks again for the video! FYI the Napa rewards add up quick owning these trucks but I’ve found it’s one of the better rewards programs hahahah
@@SamsShed glad you got through it! Yeah rewards programs are nice when you use them on a regular basis. I just bought a 4 post lift bit it is a small one to fit in my garage, so the cars and vans fit but now my truck doesn't even fit inside the garage lol
Did you grease that bearing on the inside of the timken housing? Where you pulled the red dust cap off of? Or was it pre lubed?
Good questions! I stick lube on all metal to metal contact. That is my personal preference
Please be careful with those jack stands there is a recall on them, known to collapse
All is well...just inspection your equipment before you use it like all of your tools. Always a good idea
Would you recommend putting any kind of locked tight on any of these bolts
I do not personally. Very few bolts on vehicles in my personal experience call for loctite. Typically speaking it is all done by Torque specs. When adding loctite and even antisieze you change the load on the threads
@@AGuyandHisProjects Also my spindle does spend as freely as yours, I can rotate it with one hand, not super easy but I can. You think it is okay ?
@@dylanturley7291 hard to say without seeing in person. As parts wear they will loosen up for sure. But that doesn't necessarily mean they are worn. Wiggle room would be more of an indicator I would think
What was the reason you did this job?
I have a slight rhythmic squeaking when the manual locking hubs are engaged.
They were just old and getting worn down. I try to fix things on my schedule rather than waiting for them to break on the freeway lol
@@AGuyandHisProjectsI feel this, It’s something that i get grief over. But i like fixing things on my timeframe especially if it’s not horrible expensive. Than have it have me fix it when it demands it
Thank you for the video, quick question: cant you use the ball joint clamp (press) for those uJoints? or is that another tool?
Yeppers! Most certainly can...don't ask me why I didn't lol
Hey man, we are all a family!
I am learning from you , we learn from each other. Hey and the pandemic messed us all up in some way. But really thx for this video. I have a 04 F250 needs this same thing. Thx again.
@@kelseyboy heck yeah!
thanks!
Most welcome!
I have 2000 f250 XL 5.4L and it has manual locking hubs on front axles .. it is really vibrating and humming at various speeds really noticeable when I’m on the throttle and it tends to stop when I’m off the gas.. truck has 165k on it. I did complete rear seals and hub bearings in March because I noticed rear drum assembly (rear main brakes are disc but e Brake is drum inside the rotors) buf it was all wet with gear lube.. so rear is good but I did notice my front axle is wet with lube are my seals and u joints causing vibration? Looking for a definitive test to tell what needs replaced ? Great video it looks like I could do that job.. thanks 👍🏻
Hard to tell with not being there. When I am trying to locate a noise I usually start with having my wife jump in the vehicle and slowly drive down the street while I walk next to it to at least pinpoint which corner is the issue. Then sometimes you can jack it up and spin the tire by hand in and out of locked hubs. In my experience U-joints are typically a high pitched squeal. Let me know what you figure out!
@@AGuyandHisProjects thanks yep all good investigative techniques.. I think I have a bad carrier bearing (2000 f250 super duty 2 piece drive shaft) looking at a lot of videos with similar symptoms.. I pulled my hubs up front and the axle u joints seem fine .. I didn’t pull the axels so I didn’t disturb the seals I think I’ll find the problem with xfer case u joint, carrier and rear diff u joint.. gonna inspect all that today and likely drop the drive shaft today .. now I have it in my shop.. thanks for your great video and reply 👍🏻
@@virtisconsole12 it sounds like the same noise my 2000 F350 super duty 7.3l is making, lol. I've narrowed it down to the carrier bearing also, just waiting on it to get here, suppose to have been delivered today but USPS picked it up in FL on the 26th and just bypassed NC and it went to MD, smh. Anyhow, I'll be replacing everything he just did in his video, both sides. And I may also replace all the U-joints on my driveshaft since it's got 207,000 miles on her. Hope everything worked out for ya Michael. 👍👍
Hey guy. What leaf spring did you use in the front of the truck
They were Procomps!
@@AGuyandHisProjects do they ride better than stock?
What does it have for springs in the front,leveling spring? X springs?
The fronts were Procomp to level it out. The rear end went up 2 inches.
How the heck did you get that truck in there like that 😂 Looks snug
Haha! Seems a lot of people wonder the same thing lol. When the sun is beating down at 118 degrees you find a way ;)
I was literally about to ask that 😂😂😂😂
800 point turn ;)
2002 ford f350 super duty , all 4 brakes have a light drag any suggestions
Hard to tell without seeing/feeling it. Potentially bad fluid, missing springs, or calipers are fue for a rebuild
My dust cover seals have come loose. Is there a way to tap them back in without taking the whole assembly apart? Ugh...
I have jor had any ford's where those stay in place lol
@@AGuyandHisProjects Ha ha! Just leave them hanging then? That's pretty much my plan. great video btw.
@@troychandler9785 thanks! And unfortunately yep, mine just kinda float around haha
They never stay in because of the axle play. They axle moves around up to 1/4 of a inch it pulls them out
where did you get that hook you used on the caliper from?
amzn.to/3D7Sbjx are the ones I purchased. Love them!
awesome work, what's the name of the song starting at 12:13?
Oh shoot I don't know lol. I just snag them off youtube studio. There are a LOT of what I would consider duplicat songs with different names. Maybe I'll start trying to reference them as a subtitle as they play
@@AGuyandHisProjects love the videos!!
@@monster4612 thank you! I appreciate that :)
2001 F250 DIESEL, CHANGED WHEEL BEARING AND WARN LOCK IN LOCK OUT HUBS. WHEN IN 4X4 LEFT SIDE SEEMS TO SHAKE WHEEL BACK N FORTH WHEN TURNING AROUND ?? ANY HELP ?? EVERYTHING WAS CLEANED AND LUBED.
I'd check and make sure you got all bolts back in and torqued down including lug nuts. After that hard to say
Check the ujoints
A month after balance beads... hum?
Thanks for watching, I have done a lot of getting this truck caught up! Check out the playlist!
Cool video! I like your ratchet, where can I find one of those bad boys? That thing is bad***.
Thanks! If you are talking about the black rachet, yeah, it has become one of my favorites! I picked up this particular one at my local Tractor Supply
I think this is the same one. amzn.to/2OTg6ih (associate link)
@@AGuyandHisProjects yeah the black one with the dual head. Is it 1/2” on one side and 3/8” on the other?
That is correct! I posted an Amazon link right above your last comment. I love that ratchet
same as f350?
To my knowledge they have the same axle so yep
yeah only difference is the dual extender hub. once that is off they are the same
Never ever hit the u joint cap
Thabks for the comment!
U. An use ur ball joint tool to get off u joints
I have since learned that trick and boy it is so much easier hahaha! Thanks for the comment!
@@AGuyandHisProjects I have a 02 f250 7.3 I’m about to do the same job thanks for the videos hop to see more videos about ur rig
@@fuelup7504 thanks! The 7.3 is an amazing beast. I have an 04 6.0l now so you will see videos still popping up fir sure
@@AGuyandHisProjects he’ll yeahh koo love the 350z
U
Yep it's me!
One very important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
Yes!
Your shock is upside down
Only if you look at it upside right!
its not upside down.
great video
Thanks! Hope it helped :)