Fastest Sub $500 3d Printer? The Flsun SR Super Racer Is A Beast!
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- čas přidán 14. 05. 2021
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In this video we take a look at the Flsun SR Super Racer Delta 3d printer. This is a brand new Delta printer form Flsun that has some pretty insane features and specs for a sub $500 3d printer. We will cover the specs of this printer, what assembly looks like, what print quality is like, and I will let you know my final thoughts on this printer.
Find our more on the Flsun SR here:
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This was the first video I have seen of yours. You are very professional and informative, thanks for the awesome video. Looking forward to others.
Thank your for the kind words. Getting off work and seeing this made my night. 👍
Oh wow almost 60k followers and you still read comments / reply. Hope your staying safe with all this covid crap going on. :)
Thank you for sharing. Great presentation and information. I have the SR and love it !!!
Great information! The Delta printers just look awesome
Right?! They are crazy looking haha. I have always felt that way. Looking forwarded to using this one more
out of the 4 printers I have I love my Delta - it started off as AC Kossel Linear+, its got a ReArm & LV 8729's @ 64 steps and not had an issue or had to do any levelling since I complied Marlin 2.xx in almost 3 years
Nice informative video. Would have liked to see more of the prints to see the extent of over/under extrusion, artifacting, ringing etc.
Fair review 🙂
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Thank you for always showing up and your nice comments 😬
14:00 regarding that knob, aside from what you mentioned, it can be also an artifact that results from very fast printing speed and incorrect cooling settings. In Cura, there's a Cooling settings tab and more specifically, in that tab there's a minimum layer time and minimum speed setting too. If you quickly print a very thin part like some nacelle, there will be so much heat transferred from the nozzle, the part will deform and the fan won't be sufficiently strong to blow enough air to prevent it. If the part is very thin and the "minimum layer time" is high and the "minimum speed" is also high, the slicer has no other choice than to stop the print head within the print perimeter to ensure the minimum time limit condition is met, which obviously doesn't make much sense - this is exactly what you observed. You can either decrease the minimum speed or you can check Lift Head option, which will make the print head leave the print area to allow for better cooling. This also prevents the filament from dripping into the print. Decreasing minimum time too much will likely cause the thin sections to overheat and warp.
I print at 100mm/s with my FLsun Q5. No loss of quality or performance. Like the SR, the extruder is the loudest part. A 2208 driver helped and others mentioned that certain settings can quiet it further. If the SR is out of your price range or too big, the Q5 is worth a look! FWIW, FLsun support is very good.
What kind of settings are you using to get consistent prints at that speed? I've spent that last month and half with this printer, tweaked and tested a lot of stuff, and I end up printing in the 40-60mm/s range if I want good quality and a low chance of failure. Also had to lower the travel speed, tweak the acceleration settings, and also mess with jerk control. I still have a lot of trouble printing thin and high supports, or anything that's thin and tall (tubes for retractable swords, for example). It doesn't seem related to bed adhesion, it's more the print head torque, speed, and travel that is knocking the parts over. It's really "twitchy" with small stuff that requires small movements, still working on tuning the acceleration. Printing small and intricate things has been a real challenge that I hope to tackle sooner or later
@@beeblebrux2112 Tony, when I made that comment I had only had the Q5 for 3 months and even though I was printing 1/10th scale functional parts, they were extremely basic. I now print complex functional 1/10 and 1/24th scale parts, but not on the Q5. Like you, I could never get it to work and ended up just like you did at slow speed and tweaking settings like crazy to no avail. I went down to a .3 nozzle and even that didn't help. Now, essentially a year later, I use the Q5 as my prototype machine and I print my final parts on a different printer. Unfortunately the Q5, at least with my level of experience, just can not produce "small and intricate things." It sure as hell does not like straight lines or small holes! On the flip side, it can often surprise me and last week it printed a PETG benchy that was, dare I say it, almost perfect.
@@baxrok2. Ok, great to know, and thank you for the quick response! For a minute there, I thought I was doing something very wrong
That's funny to hear about the holes, what is up with that?? I bought 6mm diameter, 2mm depth, magnets to do some cool stuff with. Made some exact dimension cutouts in tinkercad, and it's not even close to the right size. I printed the exact same cutout in two parts, one vertical and one horizontal. The vertical one fits perfect, the horizontal took a lot of exacto knife trimming to get it to fit. After some more tinkering, I had to make the .1-.2mm wider, and even then I had to work it a little bit to get them seated. Very strange indeed
I'm getting better with it, though. Every model I slice and print, I find overall improvements to make. Have multiple models that I can run off pretty confidently with the right filaments, but just today, I had a 10 hour articulated lizard fail on two linkages, both fused. Other models have taken a fair amount of tinkercad work beefing up supports that wouldn't hold
Also, do you get consistent temperatures across the whole build plate? I haven't checked it with a meter yet, but I'm getting worse layer adhesion toward the back of the plate. Wondering if it's the build plate or something in my environment (maybe a duct or something is blowing nearby ¯\_(ツ)_/¯)
So, I call it a "finicky" printer to use, but I definitely wouldn't call it bad. And I totally agree with the reviewer that it's a really cool looking machine. Getting a good print off of it is so satisfying! And I watch it constantly while it's running
@@beeblebrux2112 Slicing takes practice for sure and it can get overwhelming. I like to experiment but I'm more interested in getting good prints so I backed off on messing with too many settings. Yeah, that hole thing drives me nuts, they are shit every time. Holes will almost always be off (delta or cartesian), but the Q5 holes are bad. To help with size, you can print a calibration block with a range of hole sizes to see how much you need to up-size or downsize your holes to hit your target size. Cura also has 'hole horizontal expansion' to help with that. Holes are one thing, but if your dimensions are off, say after measuring a calibration cube, you might consider contacting FLSUN. The calibration was off on mine when I got it and they sent me a program to re-calibrate it. Definitely helped. The Q5 build plate is okay (for PLA), and I don't have any known temp issues across the plate. I print all over the plate so I think I'd of noticed it by now. Do yourself a favor and get a PEI build plate. I just got one last week and holy crap everything sticks to it! lol Pretty much eliminates adhesion issues and I'm printing PETG. Agree, it's a great printer and I love it for sure. However, for small complex parts, it's best as a prototype machine.
Likely, at those speeds, spread cycle operation is kicking in. There is a Marlin gcode for TMC to adjust the threshold speed to transition from stealthchop.
Great video, I Love my Q5.It was my first Delta.
Thank you! They definitely know how to make a delta
I am printing at 150mm/s up to 260mm/s with this printer and can not confirm your problems. The Printer is super quiet and fast. Even when going over the recommended speed limit of 200mm/s the printer produces very good results. When printing with 100mm/s the results are excelent.
I know it’s been a while but can I ask what filaments you use
@@livethroughchemistry3173
I am now over 400 hours on my SR. I can say I can print inland cf.pla at 200mm/s with the same quality as if it were printed at 100mm/s. I have recently even printed it at 300mm/s with a costum profile and a year of tuning.
very informative thanks for sharing .. I had this issue of printer pausing longtime ago with SW X1 printer while printing small knobs and gears and didn't know the fix for it till I watched your video.
Interesting you said it was loud. All the other reviews on CZcams talk about how quiet it is, around 40db when operating. Guess I’ll have to wait and see when I get mine this week! I know FLSun said they fixed that pausing issue. Fingers crossed. Great video!
I saw the spec on this printer was very impressive. That's why I grab it on PreSale. I've checking out the forums posts & YT reviews about pausing. Glad there was simple solution for the fix. The infill conclusion 👌 was overwhelmed Obvious! Thank you again for a solution! The flex plate is about the only upgrade I can see for right now. I also was only looking to print PLA & PETG on this machine. I leave the other filaments for my Artillery Sidewinder X1 it seams to handle them just fine! Thanks for the indepth review...I'll be assembling it on arrival.
Thanks again for Balanced, and Greatly Informational Review!
You are going to love it. I was blown away putting this thing together. And also am very happy that the fixes where so simple 🙌
Very black. Wow.
Great review man 😎😎 Commenting for algorithm! Keep up the great work
I have had al FL Q5 for a week my first 3d printer printed like 8 things and very happy with it. Would like an FL SR at some point for sure.
I purchased the Flsun QQ first, Loved this unit enough to pre-purchase the Flsun SR...the solution that I have found for adhesion (was using purple glue stick) is cleaning the hot bed with rubbing alcohol, then Magigoo...it holds firmly, and does not seem to break loose, even on large prints with gyroid fill...then when the bed cools...it truly pops off.
I was talking with a guy from Flsun last night, and they have something really interesting on the horizon.
Very nice and full of info video. I’m interested in one of these and I think this one will be it once I get to that point. A lot of the issues can be corrected but if the frame and bulls quality is shit then there’s no use in upgrades. This seems like a tank that will endure upgrades rather well.
man I have to finally setup my FlSun Q5 I've had sitting in the box for a very long time. My ender is great but I really want to get the speed for a delta. I will try and setup that delta this weekend and will report back. Oh and great vis as always
Haha how long has it been sitting in a box?! I would have been way to excited. Please let me know how it goes when you get up and running. Thank you and have a great week 😬
@@ModBotArmy I'm embarrassed to say how long but, I will get it up and running sooner than later
Thank you sir 🙏🏾
I think I found my next printer
It’s seriously badass
Yeah indefinitely tempted to sell my genius and get this as my next printer 😂. Printer number 5 coming up
I klipperized my SR, I'm now at 800m/s and 100k accel ;-) Admittedly I have upgraded just about everything...
Have you tried the arc weld program add-on, upped my ender-3 from 45mm/s to 70mm/s same quality print, yet all stock feed and hotend with no extrusion issues(only recommended change was hotend temp raised 25deg from standard) printed perfect parts smooth, no pimples or stringing. Gonna try to go faster since this worked so well. Weirdly arc weld recommends gyroid infill as well. Great video and nice looking machine.
At this juncture in life, I've found that my patience is thin and attention span shortening with those who "talk too much" (TTM). I often run into these TTM people on instruction videos. They ramble. On and on without saying much. You should go into business and teach these folk how to get the point across
This is an awesome video. Keep up the good work
This printer, running klipper, with an all metal heatbreak replacement and a LDO orbiter direct drive, would be a beast
Good info.
Thank you brother
Nice video
Thank you 🙏
I just ordered my elegoo Saturn today should have it by Friday fingers crossed 🤞
Why did you choose this over the epax? Im debating what to buy...
i have been looking for a printer to basically replace my anycubic i3 mega. that machine is something that has been a struggle from day 1. i was thinking about getting an ender 5 plus due to the aftermarket and sheer size, but this is super tempting, especially as it looks like i wont have to redesign my printer station to accommodate the footprint of an ender 5 plus. the height isnt really going to be an issue. the QOL features really stand out to me too. FLsun have been using that auto leveling probe on all of their delta printers that i can think of and it looks like it's really well tuned and easy to use. i can't wait to see what people do with the aftermarket, especially with that hot-end.
In newer firmware updates you can disable the beeping noise and power loss recovery, I believe this is in the eprom settings.
❤SR ! I think the main reason it’s fast with Marlin is 3 motors driving the head at all Axis with linear rails. Agreed with retractions sound 5+mm. Awaiting a direct drive 36 moto. Then next would be klipper let’s see if it will match his big brother v400 😊.
Thank you.
Have a great week 😎
i really like this. i would be interested to know what the largest printer you can get for the best price is. this seems pretty big for less than 500
after this video i bought one :) thanks
200mm/s is pretty fast, but you should take a look at a voron coreXY with an O-drive servo swap to achieve truly ridiculous speeds. This thing looks pretty dang good for a more user friendly kit though.
Have you tried a really fast and reliable SD? Power Loss Recovery writes a log file to SD to record the layer information. I reckon that this write process is affected by the SD writer and/or card.
Delta 3D printers are not faster for the reasons you gave. Delta 3D printers are faster because of the kinematic consequences of the Delta geometry.
1. Every movement made in the tool head requires the movement of 3 motors. This allows you to accelerate the tool head harder because you have the power of 3 motors contributing to each movement instead of a single motor as you would on a moving-bed Cartesian printer.
2. The geometry of right triangles means that small translations up or down in the Delta’s Z carriages induce large toolhead translations in the XY plane over the print bed.
So not only do you get more force on the toolhead for harder accelerations, you get more XY translation per unit of that force as well. The extra speed of Deltas has nothing to do with the rigidity of the frame or the weight of the toolhead. Light toolheads make any 3D printer faster regardless of the kinematic architecture. The only reason light toolheads are more common on Deltas is because it synergizes with the faster kinematics. It’s a logical fit. Often times the opposite is true. Often times people use HEAVIER toolheads on Deltas because the speed lost to weight is made up for by the faster kinematics. This is why most Clay printers or printers with large heavy pellet extruders are almost always Deltas (see: Wasp printers).
Still like the video tho 🙂👍🏼
I just purchased one of these FLSUN SR. And I am in the process of putting it together. Where can I find that G-Code file you mentioned for disabling the power outage issue it may have?
What's a good printer to get started with for printing camera gear and other similar parts?
I would theorize that part of the speed from delta came from the fact that all movements are controlled by 3 motors as opposed to Cartesian printers where one motor does all the work and the other two (or Z in case of coreXY) just sit there.
That honestly sounds like the exact reason, id be surprised if it wasn't.
Moving parts are a lot lighter on a delta.
I don't know if this is still relevant, but the issue with power recovery is the SD card not the board/firmware.
It's pretty common since most printers come with the cheapest SD the manufacturer can get.
You can get a class 10 SD card pretty cheaply on amazon and solves the issue, for me this happened with the ender 3 v2 and got an sd card for something like 15$ and no issues what so ever since.
I would love to get this delta and put Klipper firmware on it
I want it!
The plr is just something you have to enable or disable per print. For something that takes a long time and a lot of filament of course someone might want to use it as a failsafe. Small parts never need it.
I think either the microphone didn't pick up the sounds to well or the thing is really super quiet. Nice printer , but build plate size is to small if you ask me.
What is the maintenance like? Is it expensive? Also, how hard is it to level?
They have 2 different versions, one with the Robin board one with a knock off SKR 1.2.
Great video but a Bad Company, they sent me an old model with the SKR board . They tried to give me 1 roll of pla+ for their mistake.
Thank you
Technically, Delta printer can print at 45 deg layer like belt 3d printer, but why it is not available?
This can avoid support for cantilever
If you check the settings it has a toggle to turn on/off the power loss recovery on the 4.4 version. Would turning it off fix that issue you are specifying or do i still have to edit the Gcode?
So I have 4 filament printers, and my easy solution is a UPC. If have lost power to the house, and with that connected my printers just keep printing.
For my little Ole Ender 3 I have a 960VA on it. The software reports that I'd be lucky to get 6-7min out of it during a cut. That's plenty for most issues we have here, but worth noting it takes a large UPS for even a small printer for significant runtime on battery.
I may need to pick one up for the times I am running long prints or big projects
I'm still kind deciding what I want for a printer, and have been watching a bunch of videos to help me decide. One thing that I've never heard anybody mention, or thought of myself, you sort of hit on very briefly, "brownouts". ANY electronic equipment should be run on a battery backup system, not so you can watch TV when the power goes out, but it just evens out the power.
3D printers are no different, if the power fluctuates, for whatever reason, the UPS will just even out the power flow. I, personally, don't run my TV or my computer without a UPS. I've replaced the battery on the one I use for my TV 4 times, a whopping ~$12 each time. My TV is ~8 years old. Where I am, the power sucks. I have literally watched my light almost blink out like you were turning off-on really fast and heard the UPS switching to battery, it's probably the main reason my TV is 8 yo...that and I don't need a new TV just to watch the same old crap that's been on for years.
Which one would you buy comparing the FLSUN Super Racer with the Creality Ender 6?
I have just borough a super racer what did you do to disable power loss recovery?
I haven’t received my SR yet, but I was wondering if swapping in a genuine E3D hot end would be fairly easy to do? It looks like the clone on the SR is dimensionally the same except for maybe the heat block? This comment is a month late so I’m not expecting an answer out of it.
there are multiple options for this popping up on thingiverse. seeing a few with sherpa options added too
Here in germany we say instead of Prusa Style: Beschubser (English: BEDpusher)
Is it because Prusa sounds like Prussia
120mm/s is easily done w/ a slightly modified Ender 3. I'd wager I'm still under $400 total. I've pushed to 150mm/s (slicer command, not sure how to get actual) w/ 3000mm/s3. Keeping the part (and the drivers) cool is an issue at that speed even w/ a 5015 duct.
An out-of-the-box 150mm/s is nice. That means nodding should surpass bed-slinger cartesians.
you have not ender 3 is junk
@@vipermounts *shrug* I know what I can do. You don't. Have a nice day.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP well you cant do it on an ender 3!! Have a nice day as well.
Stalling is the minimum layer cooling kicking in.
That's a nice printer but would hate having to stab parts from the build plate, and why can't they release a printer with a larger build surface, I would prefer a larger horizontal than vertical
You can throw a flexplate on it😬 I may end up doing that as well
@@ModBotArmy oh shit now I'm interested, did you do it?
I would suggest upgrading to Klipper. It will make it process the gcode much faster. Also as far as the extruder noise, are they running 2209 for the extruder? Alot of times I have seen where they skimp on the e stepper driver to something cheap like a A4988 or something similar. Great video BTW and glad to see extrusions for the uprights instead of the crappy sheet metal they used on previous models.
Would you consider doing an "upgrades" video for this machine?
I plan on installing Klipper to it. Only upgrades I have done is a flexplate system.
@@ModBotArmy would be interested n the Klipper install. I've done the flex plate and an OMG extruder (more for filament changes than extruding problems). Anything to be gained by updating the hot end?
Hello nice people, I have the same issue that you cans see at 15:50 up to the point that some prints get knocked out of the plate depending on the shape and how tall is the print.
Some hints on how to fix it? :)
It's always seemed weird that people would choose to use glue stick/hairspray for bed adhesion when they could just use a brim or raft. Glue stick makes a bit more sense for an unheated bed or an application where you want a power failure to resume successfully after the bed has cooled down, but why introduce something to dirty the workspace? Especially for tall, thin prints with little bed contact, adding a brim or raft is the easiest and cleanest way to fix the issue
Deltas are cool
I want one
They are rad seriously
Speeds mean absolutely nothing without acceleration and without saying if it's infill outside perimeters or internal perimeters or anything
Hi ! could you please share the gcode for correction ?
Time for a #speedboatrace
Compared to some of the ones I have seen I do not think I am ready 🤣
Are the fans 12v or 24v?
might be able to scrape under 500 with a voron v0
can I print with this machine Nylon with CF ?
Any idea if this can print nylon completely stock?
Negative would need to upgrade the hotend to an all metal to hit the needed temps
Mine broke after 7 hours of printing. started making weird noises and suddenly vibrating really bad. Then the arms flew off. Awaiting FLsun who have not responded yet.
Yeah those are way to small of feet to stay stuck. Why did you not use a raft? Or a Brim would have probably worked too.
I love everyone is throwing speeds around, but no one talks about the other parameters... It is not the same to print with 200mm/s with a .4 nozzle and .2mm layer height and printing 200mm/s with a .6 nozzle and .3mm layer height...
Have you heard they're already working on a new printer that's supposedly gonna go even *faster*
I just heard :) I think I have one coming for testing in a couple of months. So excited to see how it matches up. I am in the process of KIippering this one. :)
@@ModBotArmy nice! I don't have the skillset/patience to convert to clipper yet, but right now I'm happily printing away at 120ish mm/s base and my prints come out great in esun pla+!
what is its max temp, does it have a all metal hotend
No all metal hotend. I wouldn’t go above 245 without upgrading.
Try out a MakerBot replicator. 500 mm/s+ print speed, core xy.
What accel tho.
@@ameliabuns4058 Not fully sure; but I think it could probably get to max after maybe 5 cm? I don't have a way to time it; I can't directly edit GCode, (thanks for that, MakerBot!) and it's my schools, so I can't access it during the summer. TL;DR, cannot test, probably 500 - 700 mm to get to max speed.
It says 800 bucks on the website
Really beeps !!
Yooooo….. this one prints in a hurry…🤣🤣🤣🤣
I will just rip out the speaker and pretend nothing happened so I don't hear the beeping.
240 deg C max nozzle temperature is a deal breaker. It really limits what materials you can print with.
You can always modify the hotend and firmware to allow higher printing temperature
i paged you bro, how come you didn't call me back?
I think your missing the mark on a lot of these talking points and misunderstanding what goes into the quality of a part. I print 150mm/s on my CR10, the frame is far from the thing that makes that possible/impossible. Delta are not known for rigid frame, mm/s is not a good indicator of speed, the speed limiting factor is not the frame. Deltas actually have relatively weak frames compared to most printed and tend to twist at real high speeds. Just because you plug in 150mm/s does not mean your printing 150mm/s, the accel is probably really low, maybe 3 or 4000, so it's probably never reaching that speed. The reason the threads fit is probably because you weren't even close to 150mm/s, for a whole host of reasons I don't care to explain
big sad
I love your info but you spend way too long telling people what you’re about to say. Get to it, pal (and add a compressor)