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On my voron I use squash balls as feets and the isolate the vibrations really well

Can't seem to find it anywhere in stock... Is this device available in the United States?

Finally got KAMP working on my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro thanks to this video!!! You're awesome!

Do you find any benefit to this process over using the dynamic flow calibration on the Bambu A1 Mini? Thanks for the great video explaining the manual flow calibration in OrcaSlicer.

would you mind revisiting this with the phone on top of the printer?

Do these feet make the printer noticibly quieter? I have an Ender 3 with silent everything next to my P1P and would love to quiet that one down a bit XD

I use a cut-up old mousepad with 5 mm foam as vibration insulators. They help a lot with vibration damping, so especially the resonance tests of the Bambu printers are a lot less noisy. Other than that, neither the prints are affected by it, nor did i expect them to be.

Each application will require different energy adsorbing components, dependent upon the mass of the unit, its CG, the repetition rate of the impulses, and the natural resonance of the table. If the mfg is using the same foam/rubber/soft energy-adsorbing materials, it's random chance how well they'll work.

One word for you... Sylomer

Very informative and educational video. Thank you for introducing me the Hula feet.

Cnc machines are supposed to be anchored to concrete slabs. Why would a 3d printer be any different? Seems to me that these anti vibration feet would only magnify any errors.

I had X-Max first generation and I have to say when printer worked it was great, until I was cleaning nozzle one day, accidently unplugged ribbon cable from extruder board and motherboard fried instantly. I contacted Qidi support and they suggested I need new motherboard that cost £120 + shipping. Then I realised I want to convert it to Klipper. I am still in process of doing so as it is a lot of work.

Will it work on A1?

I wonder if it would help to clamp the phone rigidly to the table - I imagine some of the higher frequency vibrations might be lost through the phone sliding and/or through the stand.

if the printer frame is not rock solid, mount hula on a solid plate then put the printer on top of that plate will give better result?

I never understood the pursuit of dampening feet. The best result is always achieved with the most stable hard connection to the ground.

Thanks for publishing the inconclusive data many people may had ditched that results and scrapped the project, but having more data to explore theories always help the development process of evaluation and reproducibility. Kudos for keeping the good work.

I am using my custom designed feet printed in 83A tpu and they work great. Havent released the file though because I know people will print in wrong tpu and then complain because the tpu settled. That bearing design is pretty cool though but not a easy print for most users as they need to buy parts just to make them.

I'm surprised these didn't make things worse honestly. They appear to add more motion to the printer, now if one was trying to remove motion from the surface the printer is setting on these these would be something to consider.

I have a voron 2.4 and prusa xl, i was not aware of this project. I had made adapters to fit large subwoofer/turntable dampening feet to my printers which seem to be a metal cup with an oddly soft large doughnut of rubber. Not sure how much its helping as i don’t have any before/after prints but i feel like the desk they are on is being effected much less and my prints look pretty clean. I have wondered especially with the voron how one might make that gantry both lighter and the whole printer more resistant to issues like ringing.

Bed leveling wheels on springs? NOPENOPENOPENOPENOPENOPENOPENOPENOPENOPE

this feels like the opposite of what's best for print quality. I would imagine bolting the printer down to a massive cement block making everything as rigid would be best. Same reason they make cnc machines big and heavy and rigid. if your trying to reduce vibration then make it heavy, if you want to reduce harmonics you have to dampen. What im thinking is go at it like the archery guys. what about rubber inserts into the extrusion? think slot covers but tpu and almost solid fill in the track. like filling your cnc machines neck with cement or epoxy.

cool comcept

You should be able to find out the sensor used in the phone and then you can look up the datasheet to find the resolution and accuracy of the sensor.

I just have reinforced Lack tables and Lack enclosures with pavers coated in plasticoat for the printers to sit on, I have printed various feet for printers over the years and the paving slab with the stock feet have been the best solution IMO

There is a good reason why VZBot is bolting his printer onto the wall 😅

This really nails the type of video I love to see. Something extremely practical, cost-effective, and value add.

The Etsy hardware bundle listing is no longer available. What size roll of VHB tape do you find works best for cutting down to size on the A1 Mini purge system parts?

You make the best videos❤❤❤

I love how we went from "DON'T LET THEM VIBRATE! USE CONCRETE SLABS!" to this. It's always a back and forth.

Not sure if I'm missing part of the video, but I think it's mentioned on the document of HULA that the machine must be set on a levelled surface for it to be effective, so you'll have to first level the table/ shelf, before putting your printer on it. And I don't see you mentioning it in the video, so maybe that's why the result you're getting is worse than the stock ones!

Cheap phone cheap sensors. Waste of time.

Frequency tension measurement is a perfect way to do it, however here is a couple of tricks: 1) select segment of the belt which is longest distance between 2 solid points, where distance is easy to measure between them and also where this distance is easy to replicate (put gantry into one of its limit positions). 2) I dunno why, but printer designers will give you the length and part of the belt, which is not easy to setup and even milimeters play a role - but you dont need to follow this, because the belt is equally tight along its whole length. Use #1 instead. 3) frequency is inverse function of belt length (of the oscilating segment). All other variables, such as belt tension, belt mass per unit of length, remain the same. If printer OEM tells you it has to be 170 Hz on a segment 150mm long and your easily constrained segment is 360mm long, aim for 170Hz / 360mm * 150mm = 70.8Hz. Use your preferred segment and recalculate accordingly. 4) prusa tends to measure and reproduce the results very well, when it comes to longer belt segments and frequency around 50-100

I have 2 of that exact same workbench in my room lol. One of them has the optional power strip + pegboard sides though.

Personally ive had very positive results with the bambu lab feet. It was tricky to get them perfectly centered after installing, but now that they are in place i noticed quite a large reduction in general noise and vibration. I have my printer placed on a dresser and i can only feel vibrations within a few inches from the feet, anywhere else on the dresser i cant feel anything at all.

A wobbly table does not matter for print quality at all, and neither do these feet, this is a principle already known for very long in the precision engineering industry. For precision machines it is standard not to mount them as rigidly as possible to the ground, rather to have as low stiffness coupling as possible. This is done as to minimize the coupling of ground/floor vibrations into the machine, and not to reduce internal vibrations. Internal vibrations are caused by limited stiffness of its own frame and masses relative to its own frame. No coupling to the outside influences this, unless you are running some very weird scenario where frequencies intermix and couple back into the frame (in which case you also have a poorly designed frame). What matters is the stiffness of the coupling of the motion system to the print, and the mass associated with motion system. Dont believe me? Refer to the video from Makers muse where he suspends a printer mid air (it doesnt get more wobbly than that) yet it prints identically. I suspect the different results you were getting before with the wobbly table, to likely be because of incorrect input shaper results, rather than physical performance limits. The results you get in this video are likely more correct (as in 7:40 where all peaks are at identical frequencies). As for your differing results, they could just be noise. Also, the location of the phone matters very much. The phone is measuring accelerations, and those are essentially the movement of the table boards. Changing the exact printer location changes how vibrations are coupled into the board, and changing the location of the phone would change how these vibrations are perceived (The table has its own natural frequency, and you can get standing waves inside of the board). It also does not take into account the frequency spectrum of the coupled accelerations. tl;dr Stiffness from 'world' to 3d printer doesnt matter for print quality, and a sturdy bench or soft feet neither help. And no, the feet also dont help with machine wear. Feet do help with vibrations of the machine being coupled back into tables, thus reducing noise, but this depends on the specific setup.

I will send a msg over X. I have a design very close to this but I use a single marble as the bearing and a 8 magnetics provide the centering force

in conclusion: just use the stock feet

I recently bought a Ender 3 V3 SE. I want to print ABS, ASA. What mods I need to make for print those materials?

It makes no difference to stiff machines like the X1C. You actually want a nice solid base like a paving slab and use the stock rubber feet. It may make the printer noisier but it will absolutely reduce the vibrations in the machine. These sort of feet just make the machine wobble which could introduce more errors.

Eh, literally the most impressive upgrade I've added to my printer is a simple concrete slab. It improves prints and noise more than any anti-vibration thingamabob I've tried over the years.

The test with accelerometer on your phone is fundamentally the same as input shaping acceleration measurement. However this setting method of input shaping, minimising vibrations, and the corresponding measurement method, is misleading. The machine may vibrate as much as it wants around its origin. You want the bed and the toolhead to move rigidly relative to each other, you don't care how they move relative to Earth, which is what accelerometer is measuring. So you want to tie down the machine to something immovable and have the input shaper figure out and suppress inherent resonances of the machine; and then you can place it on decoupling feet for improved quality - less relative vibrations since they are converted to global vibration + damping. Also improved quality of life due to less noise, easier placement etc. The only valid assessment for the feet is by looking at print quality. Not accelerometer readings.

You theae would work for a washing machine if you scaled it up?

For my X1C, I went for a more rigid setup -- made feet that lock into couplers that are screwed in a cement paver, then placed on the floor. Vibrations have never been an issue.

i have a concrete paver right under my printer then 5in of furniture foam, cant even heat the vibrations with your ear on the table XD

I have my X1C on a table that kind of sways back and forth. It prints excellently. I think people really just want to feel like they are upgrading their printer. I think that the printer shouldn’t be on anything soft or squishy or floaty so the vibration is predictable and can then be compensated for.

I was getting interested until you showed that I should calibrate without feet and then I would get better results WITH feet. I'm not sure about your background (software?) but to any decent engineer (mechanics or similar fields) this is clear indication of BIG issues somewhere, and your final results confirm it: sometimes the feet enhance, sometimes they reduce vibration measured with the accelerometer. To make it short: there is no way that an elastic/damping element can be blindly applied to a vibrating system to guarantee an improvement: the damping and the elastic components of the feet should be tuned to the actual mass and acceleration of the vibrating component (the printer). Since this HULA does not tell you how thick and how rigid the elastic/damping wavy ring should be based on the printer, this whole test is based on pure luck and the design, which in principle is interesting, literally cannot be suitable at the same time for the A1 and the K1, which differ in weight by a factor of at least 30%. I wonder how bad it would be on my Q1 which weighs twice the A1 mini. My take from this video is about the use of Mercalli and similar apps to evaluate the vibrations on ky printer before and after the dampening mat i bought, one of those for laundry machines

I have a double LACK stack in my closet, top bambu x1 has stock feet and a concrete paver underneath, the p1s below have some tpu bambu vibration reduction feet clones, and they seem to be doing really well in that lack stack.

maybe just use a concrete slab under the printer as many ppl do for a good reason (reinventing the wheel when the problem solved years ago)

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