dude I'm an old boatman you are absolutely brilliant censerlly you really are. do as little as possible makes less mess unless you have to explain .made my day and I learned how to.
My 170 wasn't oiling. Took it apart and although there was a lot of oily saw dust under the cover plate the oil slot & hole weren't stopped up but the oiling hole in the bar was clogged. Cleaned all that and also too a hack saw blade and cleaned out the bar chain slot. The oiling test is holding the tip of the bar an inch or so from a clean surface like card board and seeing if you get a light spray of oil. Very good camera work. I'm saving this in case I have to do the entire oil system some day. Thanks.
Clean everything prior, once the clutch assembly is back on you can spin it fast enough to see it working with the air hose. Checking on final assembly lay a piece of paper on the ground operate saw over at approx. 12" oil should spatter on to the paper if working properly. Otherwise GREAT video very helpful.
My original ms170(2005) leaked oil from the day I purchased it. Watched a Utube by a German on 170 repair. There that line plugs in, had a fold. It was not installed properly from the factory. Have many hours on mine all during atv rides. Just purchased another. Cause when you find something this good, and go to replace it, and find its no longer available, is not good. Very good illustration of that oil line.
Be careful driving the oil pump back in, it is possible on some with aftermaket pump to drive it too far, just watch through the hole where the worm gear goes and make sure the oil pump gear is centered with the output shaft so the worm gear will mesh properly. If not aligned it may still work but the worm gear can wear out prematurly
Dzięki za instruktaż 👍 Bardziej mnie interesowały gumy / amortyzatory w tej małej cholerze. W moim modelu strasznie idą wibracje. Guma stwardniała ze starości. Stihl nie chce się rozwijać i zastosować np silikonowych.
I noticed that whirring noise right away. I've always associated with a tight chain, which it does look like you run a tighter chain than I do. I presume it's caused by friction on the bar, which is why you can also get that sound when it's not oiling. I try to not tighten it that much anymore as it seems to slacken the chain more easily; I tighten just enough that the hanging chain is brought up to meet with the bar, then stop. I know lots of people prefer it tighter than that, and it's probably honestly not a bad thing, but I'm happy to stop and retighten as needed, even if it's more often. Just thought I'd chime in since you commented on the sound, and I had recognized it. Great video btw. I haven't needed to do anything with my oil pump yet, but it's good to know!
Thanks for video, these M170 and M180 saws seem suffer from poor oil supply. Like yours I only get a dribble of oil even revving the motor, from the bar feed. May be that the normal chain oil is a bit thick for these saws. Stihl say to use their 'Bio plus' oil, not sure if this is thinner than the standard oil,
My MS181 Seems a bit under oiled too. I got the local dealer to fix a leaking oil pipe so assuming they checked it after that and it’s good. The oil does go down slowly but it’s not coming out at the rate I would expect.
Oil Pump Worm Gear Oil Line Filter Fuel Line Filters for Stihl 017 018 MS180 MS170 MS 170 180 Chainsaw Replacement Spare Parts www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPHC3CR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A26QN2ZDA6KSBT&psc=1
Thomas Whitten hello, it was a guy on ebay, i can't remember his ebay name, but he's in Connecticut. Just search ebay fot "ms xxx stihl oil pump worm".
I was sure that my oiler wasn't working. My chain was dry and when I took the cover off I found that it was barely oily. I took it to the Stihl store where I bought it and the mechanic there took it in the back and ran it with and without the chain on. He returned it and said that it was working normal. I don't know what to think. It certainly is not like the amount of oil that would come out on the chainsaws of yesteryear.
so for anyone reading this down the road, i wanted to tell u what happened w/ my stihl chainsaw so maybe it would provide u with a clue. the local chainsaw repair "pro" got my chainsaw oil lube flowing again - all he did was take the oil cap off and put it on its side for 20 mins. said it was "air locked" which i guess happens when u take it all apart to figure out why it wasn't oiling the bar/chain in the 1st place. sounds like i fixed the original problem but in doing so, created this odd secondary "air lock" problem that none of the youtubers nor anyone online mentioned could happen when u introduce air into the oil's pathway. i'm a little confused why this wouldn't happen anytime u're out cutting wood and run out of oil in your reserve tank. maybe someone can explain that.....
I have to say, it's been hit or miss. For instance, I bought a float type carburetor for a wheeled string trimmer off Ebay for about $14 with free shipping, and it bolts up perfectly, and has been working great. A while back I bought a Walbro clone for a Kohler KT17, and the high speed main needle jet adjustment is on the top. Problem there is you cannot get to it with the air filter housing in place. To make matters worse, that carb seems to need re-adjustment all too often, almost as if the vibration moves it?? On the 2 stroke side, the carbs and other parts seem to be "okay" most of the time. But I bet if I were doing repairs for a living, and ordered 10 of the same item at a time, several might have defects. For a shade tree machanic working on my own stuff, I can live with the occasional disappointment. Not sure I'd feel that way if I was having customers return telling me "it's doing the same thing" only to find the cheap part failed. I'll close with this story. I bought my kid a cheap used car from a guy I know. He had just recently had a few repairs done to it by his mechanic. One item repaired was a faulty sensor. Within 12 months it through a OBD code. My mechanic said it was that sensor. After he repaired it, he explained he had installed a new OEM sensor from Nissan, and that the previous sensor was most likely a cheap aftermarket import. He said they had been having issues with repeat failures on several types of sensors, all aftermarket, all Chinese. He said now he only uses OEM sensors. Food for thought.
Originally they came with 14" bars. "Bean counters" probably recommended 16" to boost sales. If you need a 16" bar, you need more horse power too, IMHO. Ask store to install 14", you won't be disappointed. If you keep chain sharp!
An easy way to see if your chain is being oiled is, well it's how I've checked for years is to point your bar around a foot or two away and downward at piece of cardboard or something light colored, anything bar oil would show pretty easy on and Rev it up to see if it sprays from your chain... Be careful out there cutting tres that are hung up in underbrush and such.... Risky business bud.. That and felling dead trees,, make sure you clean around your area so you can take off running if needed, keep your eyes up dead or half deads for limbs or whole tops snapping while you're sawing.. That's what "we call" "widow makers " down in Alabama.. Be safe y'all
John Brunton funny you should ask. it just died yesterday. I was cutting for a few hours, shut it off, then it wouldn't start. took a lot of pulling, and it started, but died at idle. not sure what happened. I'll get to it eventually. your shut off issue should be an easy fix. the ignition kill is accomplished by a little pin grounding out a black wire. it can be seen clearly when you remove the top cover.
I figured it might be something like that but I'll have to find a good diagram to go by. There is a zip-tie around the wire and switch shaft and I don't know it that is normal or if the end of the wire looks normal. I really appreciate your video as my saw was very wet on the bottom and I suspect there is an issue with the oiler. First, I suspect the oil cap is not the right one and second it doesn't seem to throw much oil onto the garage floor when I rev it. It could also be the bar judging from the later part of your video. I plan to upgrade it to an .050 bar and chain as other videos make mention the small chain dulls quickly. This saw was evidently not maintained as well as I maintain my own. I took it on trade and didn't inspect it closely. It looks like some parts aren't too expensive so I'll attempt to repair it myself after viewing your video. Thanks again!
Why buy high cost stihl parts when you can get them for much less, will the aftermarket work......yes....so no problem. looks to me if the problem is with the pipe and not the pump itself.
Word of advice I am a still tech take the oil pump out and see if the gear goes up and down if so clean the old pump and it will work thoes Chinese parts are crap
please explain why you people are using ethanol fuel in your 2 stroke engines when you should not be, as long as pure ethanol free fuel is available its called recreational fuel or aviation gas from an airport
@@stevewatr I am in the U.S. and av gas here is only 2 times as high as ethanol gas and if it were 10 bucks a gallon in the long run it would be worth every penny and almost every county in america has a municipal airport find some you will not regret it
I sell and repair saws for homeowners and pros. Most of the pros I deal with buy premium pump gas (10% ethanol) and use the Stihl HP Ultra syn 2-stoke additive in the silver bottle. I have inspected the pistons on saws that have been run hard everyday for 5 years, and the pistons still look like new. The key is use fresh pump premium and the good Stihl oil. When ever I get a used saw in, I dump the fuel and start with fresh. To get rid of the old gas, when I fill up my truck, I dump a quart or so in the tank with the new gas. Never had a problem.
With all respect, you get what you pay for.The quality control on most parts on Ebay are low.Most do not understand this.They just want cheap price and go for it.Take for example, a cheap knock off carb for a saw vs real deal.Then there is the old looks like orig says orig has Sthil stamped on it, must be orig trick.Sthil is just a example of after market junk sold on web.When in repair of Sthil in this case, ALWAYS buy orig from Sthil/dealer.The mistake in this was, you brought no quality and prob brought a bulk buy from a seller whom brought over seas at 97 cent each.I wish you the best, but before more damage is done, replace it.$32 bucks gives you peace of mind and you don't roll the dice to save vs down rd when that 10 buck part you got turns into hundreds in parts and repair.
Side note, so you are aware, China sellers are smart.They DO have places based in USA and control all that in China.At times dead give away is list saying "based in US".Or a handful selling after market junk around CA.Few other ways to tell.But odds are you brought from a China seller company etc.You can bet the quality control on that part is well, junk.Yes, everything is made in China more less.Key here is quality control standards.Made for Sthil =s good.Reg public sell, on the penny.
dude I'm an old boatman you are absolutely brilliant censerlly you really are. do as little as possible makes less mess unless you have to explain .made my day and I learned how to.
Thank you, great video, still being appreciated 5 years later
My 170 wasn't oiling. Took it apart and although there was a lot of oily saw dust under the cover plate the oil slot & hole weren't stopped up but the oiling hole in the bar was clogged. Cleaned all that and also too a hack saw blade and cleaned out the bar chain slot. The oiling test is holding the tip of the bar an inch or so from a clean surface like card board and seeing if you get a light spray of oil. Very good camera work. I'm saving this in case I have to do the entire oil system some day. Thanks.
Thanks for this video. I found dismantling the oiler and blowing out the oil ways fixed my issue.
Your'e welcome.
Thanks mate. This video really helped me fit a new pump to my ms181. Thanks again. 👍
Clean everything prior, once the clutch assembly is back on you can spin it fast enough to see it working with the air hose. Checking on final assembly lay a piece of paper on the ground operate saw over at approx. 12" oil should spatter on to the paper if working properly. Otherwise GREAT video very helpful.
My original ms170(2005) leaked oil from the day I purchased it. Watched a Utube by a German on 170 repair. There that line plugs in, had a fold. It was not installed properly from the factory. Have many hours on mine all during atv rides. Just purchased another. Cause when you find something this good, and go to replace it, and find its no longer available, is not good. Very good illustration of that oil line.
Really good, really helpful. Many thanks.......all the way from London!
Good little saw, sounds runs and looks just like mine.
Be careful driving the oil pump back in, it is possible on some with aftermaket pump to drive it too far, just watch through the hole where the worm gear goes and make sure the oil pump gear is centered with the output shaft so the worm gear will mesh properly. If not aligned it may still work but the worm gear can wear out prematurly
Ela joga pouco óleo? Ou será so a minha acabei de troca a bomba de óleo!
hay Steve the back of your work table looks like a medicine cabinet Not to worry my friend life will continue sure enjoy your work stay happy L.
Larry Cederholm lol. I see what you mean. good news is all those bottles just have screws and small parts in them.
Glad to hear you haven't got a screw loose ;-)
Andrew Burton I most certainly do......just ask my wife!
Dzięki za instruktaż 👍 Bardziej mnie interesowały gumy / amortyzatory w tej małej cholerze. W moim modelu strasznie idą wibracje. Guma stwardniała ze starości. Stihl nie chce się rozwijać i zastosować np silikonowych.
Dziękuję
@@stevewatr Wszystkiego najlepszego z okazji świąt Bożego Narodzenia i Nowego Roku 🙂
The rubber flange on hose end at pump goes under the white housing(case) to hold it in pump hole. Put the plastic caps back in the three bushings too.
I did put the caps in. I'll have to check that flange placement. Thanks for the heads up.
@@stevewatr Yeah I missed it first time I replaced hose.
Thank you! I was scrolling down to see if anyone had even noticed that or not
I have a 170 and this leaks oil, so I will be busy it looks easy
to fix this problem..
Thanks..
Makkelijk zelf te doen!Merciekes voor de uitleg hier!Groetjes vanuit de Elvis Presley Boulevard!
T aro you're welcome
very helpful ...many thanks
I noticed that whirring noise right away. I've always associated with a tight chain, which it does look like you run a tighter chain than I do. I presume it's caused by friction on the bar, which is why you can also get that sound when it's not oiling. I try to not tighten it that much anymore as it seems to slacken the chain more easily; I tighten just enough that the hanging chain is brought up to meet with the bar, then stop. I know lots of people prefer it tighter than that, and it's probably honestly not a bad thing, but I'm happy to stop and retighten as needed, even if it's more often. Just thought I'd chime in since you commented on the sound, and I had recognized it.
Great video btw. I haven't needed to do anything with my oil pump yet, but it's good to know!
Thank you. Good information
Thank you!
Left hand threads loosen when turned clockwise. That`s what your sprocket has.
Thanks for video, these M170 and M180 saws seem suffer from poor oil supply. Like yours I only get a dribble of oil even revving the motor, from the bar feed. May be that the normal chain oil is a bit thick for these saws. Stihl say to use their 'Bio plus' oil, not sure if this is thinner than the standard oil,
I do know Stihl sells a cold weather oil that stays thin in cold weather. I bought some and will try it this fall.
@@stevewatr One tip is prime the pump with oil from an oilcan before connecting the feed pipe.
On our farm we use canola oil and that is thin enough where I get good flow it seems.
My MS181 Seems a bit under oiled too. I got the local dealer to fix a leaking oil pipe so assuming they checked it after that and it’s good. The oil does go down slowly but it’s not coming out at the rate I would expect.
Use lighter weight oil works for me
Thanks for the video
thanks that was well done
hi ,im from Romania, i have same chainsaw ,2 days a go a paied 20Euro for the oil pomp
How do I find these parts or this guy
steve, is it possible to get the source of that oiler kit from you. thanks mike
mike cullen ebay seller id is chinigo1 in Amston, ct.
Try this place, discountonlineparts.com. I use them to get parts for my chainsaws.
Oil Pump Worm Gear Oil Line Filter Fuel Line Filters for Stihl 017 018 MS180 MS170 MS 170 180 Chainsaw Replacement Spare Parts
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPHC3CR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A26QN2ZDA6KSBT&psc=1
Please, Steve, I can't find the part 1 , can you leave a link
czcams.com/video/IDnAHow3DvA/video.html
I need the name or link to the company you bought your parts from. I have a different model but could use the same parts. Thanks!!
Thomas Whitten hello, it was a guy on ebay, i can't remember his ebay name, but he's in Connecticut. Just search ebay fot "ms xxx stihl oil pump worm".
I was sure that my oiler wasn't working. My chain was dry and when I took the cover off I found that it was barely oily. I took it to the Stihl store where I bought it and the mechanic there took it in the back and ran it with and without the chain on. He returned it and said that it was working normal. I don't know what to think. It certainly is not like the amount of oil that would come out on the chainsaws of yesteryear.
1 tank of oil per 1 tank of gas
I have same problem, i guess you have to be rude to them so then they will take ypu serious, my oiler holl on the bar clugs up after 1 min of cutting
so for anyone reading this down the road, i wanted to tell u what happened w/ my stihl chainsaw so maybe it would provide u with a clue. the local chainsaw repair "pro" got my chainsaw oil lube flowing again - all he did was take the oil cap off and put it on its side for 20 mins. said it was "air locked" which i guess happens when u take it all apart to figure out why it wasn't oiling the bar/chain in the 1st place. sounds like i fixed the original problem but in doing so, created this odd secondary "air lock" problem that none of the youtubers nor anyone online mentioned could happen when u introduce air into the oil's pathway. i'm a little confused why this wouldn't happen anytime u're out cutting wood and run out of oil in your reserve tank. maybe someone can explain that.....
Does the job!
sounds like someone playing bongo drums lol
Hold the tip of the saw to a pice of paper or a wall
Hey Steve. Nice video. How is the saw running now?
It was good for about 2 years. Now its back to needing work. Probably fuel issues again.
Thank you for this video. Helpful... From Czech rep.
very good video!
Sawzilla they have parts you can't even find anywhere else
what size was the screw used to remove the pump?
m5 i heard
How are these China kits holding up under heavy use ????
Our dealership only orders parts every month and waiting on China is not a problem for me
I have to say, it's been hit or miss. For instance, I bought a float type carburetor for a wheeled string trimmer off Ebay for about $14 with free shipping, and it bolts up perfectly, and has been working great. A while back I bought a Walbro clone for a Kohler KT17, and the high speed main needle jet adjustment is on the top. Problem there is you cannot get to it with the air filter housing in place. To make matters worse, that carb seems to need re-adjustment all too often, almost as if the vibration moves it?? On the 2 stroke side, the carbs and other parts seem to be "okay" most of the time. But I bet if I were doing repairs for a living, and ordered 10 of the same item at a time, several might have defects. For a shade tree machanic working on my own stuff, I can live with the occasional disappointment. Not sure I'd feel that way if I was having customers return telling me "it's doing the same thing" only to find the cheap part failed. I'll close with this story. I bought my kid a cheap used car from a guy I know. He had just recently had a few repairs done to it by his mechanic. One item repaired was a faulty sensor. Within 12 months it through a OBD code. My mechanic said it was that sensor. After he repaired it, he explained he had installed a new OEM sensor from Nissan, and that the previous sensor was most likely a cheap aftermarket import. He said they had been having issues with repeat failures on several types of sensors, all aftermarket, all Chinese. He said now he only uses OEM sensors. Food for thought.
very good
What size Bar are you using Please?
Originally they came with 14" bars. "Bean counters" probably recommended 16" to boost sales. If you need a 16" bar, you need more horse power too, IMHO. Ask store to install 14", you won't be disappointed. If you keep chain sharp!
Where did you get the kit from?
I think that one was from ebay.
An easy way to see if your chain is being oiled is, well it's how I've checked for years is to point your bar around a foot or two away and downward at piece of cardboard or something light colored, anything bar oil would show pretty easy on and Rev it up to see if it sprays from your chain... Be careful out there cutting tres that are hung up in underbrush and such.... Risky business bud.. That and felling dead trees,, make sure you clean around your area so you can take off running if needed, keep your eyes up dead or half deads for limbs or whole tops snapping while you're sawing.. That's what "we call" "widow makers " down in Alabama.. Be safe y'all
Just an observation. I usually clean the tool before I repair it so debris doesn't fall in.
By chance, do you know what size screw you used?
John Brunton sorry, i don't recall.
Thanks! By the way, have you had any more issues with your saw? I just acquired an MS170 and it doesn't shut-off with the switch.
John Brunton funny you should ask. it just died yesterday. I was cutting for a few hours, shut it off, then it wouldn't start. took a lot of pulling, and it started, but died at idle. not sure what happened. I'll get to it eventually. your shut off issue should be an easy fix. the ignition kill is accomplished by a little pin grounding out a black wire. it can be seen clearly when you remove the top cover.
I figured it might be something like that but I'll have to find a good diagram to go by. There is a zip-tie around the wire and switch shaft and I don't know it that is normal or if the end of the wire looks normal.
I really appreciate your video as my saw was very wet on the bottom and I suspect there is an issue with the oiler. First, I suspect the oil cap is not the right one and second it doesn't seem to throw much oil onto the garage floor when I rev it. It could also be the bar judging from the later part of your video. I plan to upgrade it to an .050 bar and chain as other videos make mention the small chain dulls quickly.
This saw was evidently not maintained as well as I maintain my own. I took it on trade and didn't inspect it closely. It looks like some parts aren't too expensive so I'll attempt to repair it myself after viewing your video.
Thanks again!
John Brunton John, try watching this video, czcams.com/video/e1qT85Ma8sQ/video.html or part 3.
Mic oil pump before driving it down
On the chain side the hose is held in firmly by the plastic housing,,, you have to make sure it's tucked under. Not the handle that keeps it firm.
You didn't show the actual pump removal .
cuts through the oil line with his knife at 2:35 j/k but be careful.
Why buy high cost stihl parts when you can get them for much less, will the aftermarket work......yes....so no problem. looks to me if the problem is with the pipe and not the pump itself.
Didn't the fact that you never had to refill the oil tank give you a clue that something might be wrong?
its STIHL .......as in till.......tube
Word of advice I am a still tech take the oil pump out and see if the gear goes up and down if so clean the old pump and it will work thoes Chinese parts are crap
Stihl
Excellent but I wish you’d clean up the work bench a bit to make it easier to see.
That bottle of seltzer is definitely pee 🤣
LOL, yuck. It's actually a great degreaser called "LA's totally awesome" I get at the dollar store.
Bought a Chinese carb for my Stihl weed eater and it was no good.
I've heard both success and fails on these Chinese carburetors. I think the inconsistencies are the issue.
please explain why you people are using ethanol fuel in your 2 stroke engines when you should not be, as long as pure ethanol free fuel is available its called recreational fuel or aviation gas from an airport
Same reason as a lot of us, not easy to get for many, or high cost, or both.
@@stevewatr I am in the U.S. and av gas here is only 2 times as high as ethanol gas and if it were 10 bucks a gallon in the long run it would be worth every penny and almost every county in america has a municipal airport find some you will not regret it
I sell and repair saws for homeowners and pros. Most of the pros I deal with buy premium pump gas (10% ethanol) and use the Stihl HP Ultra syn 2-stoke additive in the silver bottle. I have inspected the pistons on saws that have been run hard everyday for 5 years, and the pistons still look like new. The key is use fresh pump premium and the good Stihl oil. When ever I get a used saw in, I dump the fuel and start with fresh. To get rid of the old gas, when I fill up my truck, I dump a quart or so in the tank with the new gas. Never had a problem.
I’ll be real, you made me regret buying one of these
With all respect, you get what you pay for.The quality control on most parts on Ebay are low.Most do not understand this.They just want cheap price and go for it.Take for example, a cheap knock off carb for a saw vs real deal.Then there is the old looks like orig says orig has Sthil stamped on it, must be orig trick.Sthil is just a example of after market junk sold on web.When in repair of Sthil in this case, ALWAYS buy orig from Sthil/dealer.The mistake in this was, you brought no quality and prob brought a bulk buy from a seller whom brought over seas at 97 cent each.I wish you the best, but before more damage is done, replace it.$32 bucks gives you peace of mind and you don't roll the dice to save vs down rd when that 10 buck part you got turns into hundreds in parts and repair.
Side note, so you are aware, China sellers are smart.They DO have places based in USA and control all that in China.At times dead give away is list saying "based in US".Or a handful selling after market junk around CA.Few other ways to tell.But odds are you brought from a China seller company etc.You can bet the quality control on that part is well, junk.Yes, everything is made in China more less.Key here is quality control standards.Made for Sthil =s good.Reg public sell, on the penny.
Oh, hope you use Sthil hp mix and 90 oct NO eth gas.
ABONNE
can u smack a little more
Will do!! Thanks for watching.
To much talk