Using a piece of pvc pipe and my miter saw plus the little hose clamp, I fixed my Craftsman mower in ten minutes with this method. Thank you for this informative video for the idea.
Thx for the video! I was 75% done cuttin when mine failed today. Did exactly what you did with a touch of laziness (no stores, used what I had😅) 1/2 piece of pex lol😂😂😂 hose clamps on either side of the ball joint.
Husqvarna has the same crappy design on their new riding mowers. The ball is pressed into the steering link and a plastic sleeve covers it. It's a bit harder to get to the end attached to the steering gear. That's a good cheaper and quick fix. How well did your sleeve hold up?
It's still working fine... The problem is there are so many different joints in that steering design and they've all gotten sloppy so I've got toe out going forward and toe in going in reverse but it still works 😆
Those ball joints are simply drilled, the ball inserted, then a crimping press reaches around the ball shaft and swages the edges of the hole closing it up around the ball. It doesn’t take much crimp it to hold the ball. But the downside is a joint what wears out quickly. Its a shitty design but lasts at least a couple years beyond warranty. Btw, I have that same steering. Since I don’t really need the extra sharp steering that relay joint system provides. I’ll probably change my steering to eliminate that relay joint and use heim joints as rod ends.
For a "more permanent" fix, remove both ball joint bolts, & then w/ the arm free, drill out/through the two holes in the linkage arm. (If the hole is 1/2in diameter use a 1/2in bit). Next, add a washer to a fully threaded 2in 3/8 bolt & run it downward into the old bolt hole, & tighten to the frame with a washer & a nylon lock nut. The rounded part (top) of the nut should face down. Do this to both the wheel side, & mower frame side. Now that both sides have two sturdy & secured bolts pointing down, push the linkage arm holes up on the bolts, & use another 3/8 lock nut to hold it on, this time with the rounded part of the nut facing up↑ (it will be hard to start the bolt on so 1st thread it on normal to cuts thread groves, then remove & flip it). Don't tighten it all the way, just turn it so the bolt is completely on & allows the arm to have some play. Done. Do a visual inspection every so often to make sure the bottom bolt is holding & bolt isn't cracking.
Maybe?? not sure if it's easier but if you have any tubing available this repair is about 50 cents and gets you back out mowing the same day. That was the main motiviation for this...I didn't feel like wasting money on the same crappy design and waiting a couple days for a part...i was half way through the yard!
I'm familiar with Husq-varna but not Huska-varna. Where can I find that brand? ✌️❤️ 🙈🙉🙊 Also I am familiar with HAR-bor Freight but not Ar-ber Freight. Where might one find that store?
@@BubbasWorkshop Hahaaaa. Good one. Same as "Tia-wanna" instead of "Tee-whanna" (Tijuana). Thanks for being a good sport and knowing I'm just teasing a little. (Even though it's wrong) I make language mistakes same as anyone but I actively try to get better. ✌️❤️ 🙈🙉🙊
Using a piece of pvc pipe and my miter saw plus the little hose clamp, I fixed my Craftsman mower in ten minutes with this method. Thank you for this informative video for the idea.
Thanks..I never thought of PVC that's way cheaper and I've got tons of it!
You just gave me the solution thank you...... I'm gonna heat the ball and sink it through the pvc and then heat the pvc and tighten it around the ball
I used tie wraps to keep my ball in the hole.
Worked fine.
I agree... Stupid design but cheap to manufacture.
Thx for the video! I was 75% done cuttin when mine failed today. Did exactly what you did with a touch of laziness (no stores, used what I had😅) 1/2 piece of pex lol😂😂😂 hose clamps on either side of the ball joint.
Nice work!
Great vid. Thanks.
Mine pulled out yesterday.
Glad it helped
That's was a good and fast idea thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Husqvarna has the same crappy design on their new riding mowers. The ball is pressed into the steering link and a plastic sleeve covers it. It's a bit harder to get to the end attached to the steering gear.
That's a good cheaper and quick fix. How well did your sleeve hold up?
It's still working fine... The problem is there are so many different joints in that steering design and they've all gotten sloppy so I've got toe out going forward and toe in going in reverse but it still works 😆
Thanks for your help in this video going to try this today 🤞
Hope it works for you!
You can put a surprising amount of press when pressing dies in a case where I work. They probably go like 3 to 5 thousands bigger and press it in
i just drill a hole in the arm ,and use a bolt with a couple washers
I did that with my old steering linkages too for this mower works like a charm
Those ball joints are simply drilled, the ball inserted, then a crimping press reaches around the ball shaft and swages the edges of the hole closing it up around the ball.
It doesn’t take much crimp it to hold the ball.
But the downside is a joint what wears out quickly.
Its a shitty design but lasts at least a couple years beyond warranty.
Btw,
I have that same steering.
Since I don’t really need the extra sharp steering that relay joint system provides. I’ll probably change my steering to eliminate that relay joint and use heim joints as rod ends.
Thanks! I could not figure out how they put those together.
For a "more permanent" fix, remove both ball joint bolts, & then w/ the arm free, drill out/through the two holes in the linkage arm. (If the hole is 1/2in diameter use a 1/2in bit).
Next, add a washer to a fully threaded 2in 3/8 bolt & run it downward into the old bolt hole, & tighten to the frame with a washer & a nylon lock nut. The rounded part (top) of the nut should face down. Do this to both the wheel side, & mower frame side.
Now that both sides have two sturdy & secured bolts pointing down, push the linkage arm holes up on the bolts, & use another 3/8 lock nut to hold it on, this time with the rounded part of the nut facing up↑ (it will be hard to start the bolt on so 1st thread it on normal to cuts thread groves, then remove & flip it). Don't tighten it all the way, just turn it so the bolt is completely on & allows the arm to have some play. Done. Do a visual inspection every so often to make sure the bottom bolt is holding & bolt isn't cracking.
Thanks! I'm betting at some point I'll get to try this out
Thank you
No problem I hope it works for you!
I have the same tractor, easier to just replace the arm..
Maybe?? not sure if it's easier but if you have any tubing available this repair is about 50 cents and gets you back out mowing the same day. That was the main motiviation for this...I didn't feel like wasting money on the same crappy design and waiting a couple days for a part...i was half way through the yard!
What is the part called? The one that the ball goes in to
I believe it's called a pivot link (that's what Sears calls it )
Stick the ball in the hole, then hyd press the link around the ball. That's what I'd do.
Buy john deere spindles and drag link and do away with that set up
I'm familiar with Husq-varna but not Huska-varna.
Where can I find that brand?
✌️❤️
🙈🙉🙊
Also I am familiar with HAR-bor Freight but not Ar-ber Freight.
Where might one find that store?
Head south and you'll find both :)
@@BubbasWorkshop Hahaaaa. Good one.
Same as "Tia-wanna" instead of "Tee-whanna" (Tijuana).
Thanks for being a good sport and knowing I'm just teasing a little. (Even though it's wrong)
I make language mistakes same as anyone but I actively try to get better.
✌️❤️
🙈🙉🙊
I guarantee those brass sleeves won’t last long. That brass is soft. It will wear out in no time.
I just bought 2 new tie rods for $15 on Amazon. It takes 20 minutes to replace both of them.
The steering is a POS
no kidding...built to fail