How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor | This Old House
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- čas přidán 10. 04. 2014
- This Old House host Kevin O'Connor assists epoxy-coating expert Doug Fasching in creating a good-looking, hardwearing, stain-resistant garage floor. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Shopping List for How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor:
- two-part garage-floor epoxy with color flakes [amzn.to/2PUJ6lY]
- biodegradable degreaser [amzn.to/2HbPnHe], for cleaning oily stains from garage floor
- acid [amzn.to/2JuJ8Qv], used to acid-etch concrete floor surface
- chemical-resistant rubber boots [amzn.to/2Jdl6u2], rubber gloves [amzn.to/2vMobs2] and eye goggles [amzn.to/2YhEitU], required when acid-etching the floor
Tools for How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor:
- garden hose [amzn.to/2PUTBWp], used to rinse floor clean during surface-prep process
- plastic sprinkling can [amzn.to/2Yg4ipr], used to apply acid
- long-handled scrub brush [amzn.to/2Ve6Rqe], for cleaning floor
- 3-inch paintbrush [amzn.to/2PUOjdC], used to cut in epoxy around floor perimeter
- paint roller [amzn.to/2VbVVcD] and extension poles [amzn.to/2VptGwf], used to epoxy garage floor
- wet/dry vacuum [amzn.to/2VgedcZ], for cleaning floor
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How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - Jak na to + styl
Those color flakes are important. Without them it would be far too easy to spot any nut or bolt or tiny screw you drop. But with them added you have lots of little spots to catch your eye and distract you.
@@brandonk8677 Do...do you work for Spartan Epoxies?
Camden Dexter yeah, I did this with a buddy for his garage, this was super simple and easy. results look good enough, like no one's gonna state at your garage floor 6 inches away... I don't think you need anything super fancy for a garage LOL.
like for example, professional house painters will sand your walls and between coats, but how many diy people do you see doing that? just paint the stuff on, let dry and touch-up lmao
Flakes and anti-slip sand are the two dumbest things people do. Skip them. Clean up is easier if you actually do stuff in your garage.
Good reply lol
@@davec.3198 anti-slip is important. You spill a bit of oil on your smooth epoxy floor and you don't stand a chance of staying upright.
I work in a paint store. Whenever I have anyone say they are doing epoxy for the first time I always make them watch this video. Even if they are Spanish speaking they get it. I used to have complaints because they would mess up somewhere, but since I started using this video to show them the process it hasn't happened since. Great video, guys! :D
"the floor feels dry"
"How dry should it be?"
"Dry"
Lol.
ChErRyaVe20pK haha 😂
lol. Funny. But we all know there are people out there who will want to start before it's completely dry... have to play down to the lowest denominator with ppl.
Jeenyus!
This video felt like the editor couldn’t wait to finish it
I don't get why they wouldn't show the finished product, instead, they show a side angle of the corner while someone's sprinkling the flakes.
The one guy says to do your strokes in a certain direction and then it immediately cuts so he can't explain why.
Boss told him "a 4 minute video, and not one second more!"
@@Patmanduu And they still went a second over:)
@@ben-si3dk I think the teasers are free... you gotta pay for full episodes.
"How does that look Brian?"
"I think that looks really good."
"That looks like a good job."
* Classy country outro *
Nothing like having an expert explain things
Two tips.
1) to fill in cracks, use a paint thickener such as cabosil to make a thick puddy with the epoxy. Apply with a small trowel or squeegee before the first coat.
2) broadcast the chips by hand by throwing into the air to allow the chips to evenly disperse
wouldnt it crack again
@@randomrazr probably not because the epoxy will flex
For my own personal tastes, I would have fixed the cracks as part of the prep.
If the slab is cracking it's going to continue to do so unless you fix the footings, which is not a simple task.
Best thing to do in this case would be to put a grinder to it and make some expansion joints, then seat up the cracks. that way the slab can continue to expand and shrink without damaging itself.
Absolutely, these cracks should have been chased out with a hand grinder and wheel segment. Then filled in with fast cure epoxy or at least decent patching material. You can read more about this at theconcretemakeover.com/garage-floor-epoxy-company-new-jersey/
hoopfan71 caulking does wonders before first coat
Epoxy strengthens the concrete and floor. Patch the cracks first and the repair will last a long time. By the time they return the floor will need to ne coated again. Mine lasted 20 years before needing a redo.
hoppfan agree... those color flakes look tacky
"So no concerns with washing this plutonium 239 into the driveway?"
Nope this is an environmentally friendly space modulator so your floor is the radioactive part and it just washes away cleanly.. LOLz
@@thebasement7620 Also glows in the dark, no need for lighting.
hahahahahaa
Lmao... hexavalent chromium 6
Only if the Libyans show up 😏
That was so nice of Alexi Lalas to help them epoxy the floor.
I like the flakes, or rather the idea of them, to hide floor inconsistencies, distract from future scratches and scuffs, and to also add a bit of “flair” or movement- especially considering how big a space is being painted and that it’s a light color. I think the Terrazzo floor look that they’re going for is attractive but while it’s the most common design that these treatments/kits use, there’s a lot of ways one can customize the look to fit personal taste and also help meet or even improve functional needs. You can use enamel additives like sand to improve traction, and that added texture would help improve the look as well as hide imperfections.
Someone made a very good point about dropping a nut or screw and looking for days to find it on a floor with such a busy pattern, which is so accurate it makes me anxious just thinking about it. So it’s important to remember what you’ll be doing in the space when choosing the base color and any design elements. You could get around this particular problem by installing a bright or very dark base color. And FYI- you only need flakes to be a few shades off from the base in order to break up the look or get the impression of texture/movement. So don’t be afraid to create some visual impact/interest in your garage/workspace. The impact will obviously be dampened once there’s cars, equipment and other furnishings added in. It will actually be helpful and more safe since it can make it more obvious to see an object in your path, a puddle, or something else that’s out of place.
And don’t let resale fears stop you bc potential buyers down the road won’t care about the color of the garage floor- they will simply appreciate that the treatment exists in the first place and assess it on its utility and upkeep. So go ahead and put in a red, blue or burnt orange floor bc it matches your branding or complements the color of your car. Throw in some clouds of glitter to match your personality. Put a big Logo of your business or favorite sports team in the middle, delineate work/caution areas by adding lines or colors changes. Just make sure the material of the decal or appliqué is compliant with type of flooring you are adding. Then a top coat will cement the look.
There are other options like different sizes, shapes, colors and finishes of whatever flake/ product is applied at the end. Example: different flake spacing, more uniform shapes, monochromatic colors, metallic shine... Consider painting patterns with another color enamel, or color blocking to delineate work spaces, you could have one color flake in an area but more mixed in to it in others. Make the floor matte or add custom appliqués... use an entirely different material and process than what everyone else does and always has done...
Just don’t be afraid to create something that’s more pleasing to the/your eye, that will help you make the best use of the space and enhance your experience while in it. Spend a few extra dollars on a certain type or color flake, order a custom monogram or additive to get a certain finish.
Sometimes it takes a little more research, viewing other videos, and knowing there’s other materials available than what comes in a typical, pre made kit. You put so much work into the preparation that the outcome and final look should be one that represents your hard work and helps make smart use of the space. Don’t be afraid to be creative, think a little harder, and make a unique and personalized finished product that best meets your needs, takes into consideration how you will use and move in the space, and makes you proud and happy to be there- especially since with a weekend of work you could end up staring at the results for 20 years.
thank you AI generated commentary
You wan sprinkles? Hell yeah I wan sprinkles!
Great all the way till the end. You barely let us see the finished product!
They never do
Try using Delta Polymers industrial strength Polycoat with some sand in between the 2 coats. It will give the floor some grip and then top it off with Polythane 1005. You will not have to worry about your garage floor for the next 20 years.
WRONG!
@@billric1945 WHY!
I've done several epoxy commercial floors including my own, and we always chemically clean then acid wash and power wash, use a commercial epoxy that is resistant to all chemicals including battery acid.
I heard this epoxy stuff peels and lifts off the floor. How long does it usually last before peeling?
Your doing it WRONG!
Why didn't you fill in the cracks and the rock pops? Self leveling caulk would have made it look so much nicer. Those cracks are just gonna get bigger over time.
Nothing was said about the cracks in the floor other than obscuring them with flakes. Why not fix cracks?
I like how they used the flakes of the homeowner's crushed skull to decorate the second coat of epoxy. What a great touch!
Great work ..love it thank you very much
If you don't like flakes and want more grip and texture you can sprinkle sand as you paint
Non Skid paint for garage floors is the trick, like many of you stated fill the cracks fist. larger cracks might need to be filled 2 or 3 times.
It's best to apply flakes to refusal. Complete coverage let it dry overnight. Scrapes excess and apply clear coat covers all imperfections and looks the best.
Dude, color flakes don't just grow on trees you know
It's an easy and must do project. Now, with that said, you have to be careful of how wet it gets or hope you have great balance.
Noooo not color flakes! Now how will you find that little screw you dropped?
magnets don't pick up color flakes and work amazingly well picking up screws. No garage should be without a set of magnetic pickup tools.
you need to be able to see it first lol
lmao!
Ummm sweeping the floor always helped me.
If you trowel the epoxy on it will fill most cracks and voids. Looks much nicer in my opinion!
This video was amazing....I feel like I can do this by myself. Thx guys.
I had painted my floor with an acrylic waterbase paint, then there was some scrath here and there on top, can i touch up and paint over this existing floor paint with and epoxy paint ( that epoxy paint with hardener one) without removing the waterbase floor paint?
I m hoping to paint my concrete (stucco) countertops in Costa Rica, to get a slate look. I have done a lot of faux finishes. Any tips besides these? The stucco had a weak finish and I don't like the color too much. If this is a success, I'll do the floor. The floor is really the end game.
You know what else fixes those imperfections - filling and patching the concrete.
If I did a floor and added glitter to stick and didn’t can I add a clear epoxy on top to hold the glitter/specks down? If I roll if it will stick like a lint roller I wonder if I can spray it
Looks good. I've decided to diamond grind, degrease and then acid wash my garage/basement before I epoxy coat it.
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if you have an epoxied garage floor that is pealing how do you fix it?
so why not a primer before the apoxy to help with the floor cracking over time? Also, why would you not use a sealent after? I mean if you want a apoxy floor to last you a year go this route.
got one for u garage floor needs replaced but it has under storage how to fix
Nice!
Everyone seems happy.
What about the clear on top after the flakes?
any idea about where to learn how to do epoxy floor near of boston?
I did not know it was this simple. Thank you!
Wax on wax off looks simple too, wait til you start doing it.
Do not do what this video shows. Its WRONG!
Great video. how do you charge? by sf?
Do you epoxy storage areas in garage?
But do you have to do all this prep if u poured self leveling cement
great... how much does one application of it cost?
How long did the concert dry before the epoxy was applied???
thumbs down for not showing the final look of the floor :(
It’s grey with spackle.
Thumbs down for you and your crybaby comment
Can this techniques be painted on the original tile floor?
What brand of color flakes did you use? Where to get it? Thank you.
Hi, I have a question :
Is it possible to paint a second time like you did even if I already applied the decorative parcel ?
I am using Rust o leum Product !
Hi your cement looks smooth mines is concrete cement like the type used in streets gravelis gravel...please reply need advise
We have an older home with wood framing on the slab and sheetrock down to the floor, so cleaning the floor with a lot of water that may flow toward living space is not possible. Should we forget trying to epoxy?
Do the color flakes help to create a more anti-slip surface? If so, is it enough on its own or should additional anti-slip be added?
If you had listened in the video it's just for looks
@@kobirelf97 Oooooooooooooooohh…
Good video, Would this be good for a prebuild garage floor made of wood? Thanks
+Ronald Phelps NO!
Would you recommend a clear coat or sealer over the top of the flakes at all? Looks VERY nice btw.
+DirTyOhGee Yes holds the chips down
I know Epoxy floors are seriously slippery and dangerous when wet, do you happen to know how effective the non-slip coating is? and is it clear.
How many gallons of epoxy, did it take to do this 2 car garage? Looks like you only mixed one gallon for the first coat, but that wouldn't be enough.. Would it? Thanks.
The cracks should have been opened a little and then filled. Myself I prefer to use a scarifier. Acid can be inconsistent and cause blotchy spots that will always stick out no matter how many coats are applied, the only way would be a full broadcast of color flakes. I also offer any color in a color paint fan deck, I also offer individual color flake options. Many others offer the same. When you have your garage done get what base color and flake color you want not what the installer suggests.
what does the air temperature have to be?
This is a pretty good informational video.... I've always wondered how to do an epoxy floor in a garage...
The guy seemed pretty thorough...
I think I would have filled in the cracks first however....
AWESOME, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. .OH,AND DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE CLEARCOAT I KNOW THIS WAS DONE IN THE ALLOTED TIME FRAME...THANKS.
+Eloy Garcia try looking into polyurea floor coatings, much better than epoxy. if you really want good adhesiveness, grind the floor, never acid etch.
The acid method is one way of doing it, but it is a cheap method. It has a higher probability of adhesive failure because your only adhering to the top coat of the concrete. For the best chance of long term success you need to get rid of the top coat and get to the bones of it as we refer to it. Then the epoxy or preferrably polyurea can bond property. The old saying goes well here though you get what you pay for. Grinding is more expensive yes, and you may need a pro to do it, but the chances of a peeling failed floor are significantly diminished.
Your screwed if you follow what they did, TOTALLY WRONG!
I'm going to pretend there isn't leaves sticking to your paint at 2:32 haha
For the guys complaining about not putting clear coat ,it doesn't matter, as long as you do 2 coats of epoxy it will be fine, clear coat just makes it a lot shinier but it doesn't really offers that much protection and is totally optional, my concern here is, what happened to the big cracks in the concrete that weren't repair before the epoxy application. That's a big NO NO, and you guys are worrying about the clear coat? Also the degreaser IT DOES AFFECT THE DRIVEWAY... if it is a really greasy garage floor all that would go onto the driveway leaving grease marks all over so it needs to be sprayed or wash right away and thoroughly, then it won't affect the driveway, believe me it was the only and first mistake I did on my first job doing this. I was doing this type of work for the last 3 years until I moved onto bigger things, clear coat was always optional and charged extra, mostly you need it in Canada where for example they apply salt on the roads on winter time and that salt is so strong that not only makes your car rusty but also when it stays on your car's tires and you drive it into your garage it will eat away the epoxy eventually,2 or 3 years, so having clear coat will help a bit with that and makes it last longer.
Didier Gonz when you are rinsing off your garage and pushing that degreaser towards the driveway. Have your driveway be already wet so that the degreaser doesn't soak into driveway. Keep rinsing and pushing it all towards the street or gutter.
This is incorrect
I just go over the concrete floor with a broom and then mop the concrete floor twice, first time with Zep concrete cleaner, next time with just warm water. I might do it 3 times (twice with the ZEP concrete cleaner added and last time with just warm water) if the floors were really messy but it's not been necessary so far as the first time gets pretty much everything as evidence by how clean the water is when I put my mop in it after doing the floor again the last time.
My clear coat turned yellow making my bluegray floor ugly green. Next time no clear...
The sun tends to turn clear epoxy yellow in many brands
good video, but why not caulk or fill up those cracks before scaling it up with the epoxy ?
I really wish epoxy manufacturers would recommend diamond grinding or shotblasting instead of acid etching. The acid that you used runs down into the cracks, joints and pores of the concrete. That will reactivate in the future with moisture in the concrete and begin to deteriorate the coating. When it reactivates, and it will, it will start to blister the coatings and the failure begins. Diamond grinding or shotblasting is the way to go. The other huge advantage is, you grind the concrete and install epoxy immediately thereafter. You do not need to wait for the concrete to dry. I guess I should be thankful, my career is based on replacing floors installed like this. I am just trying to educate the public on the reality of installing epoxy flooring. If you install it yourself for half price and need to do it again in two years, did it really save any money?
I can't believe a show like this didn't grind or shotblast ..WOW ..
Thank you, your right 100 per cent. What they did you will have to come back and diamond grind the mess they made with their procedure.
Out of the box idea- if I dump bucket of self leveling epoxy in the middle and put on a few fans would that work as well?
thanks, that's complicated enough to get someone hired to do this or look for alternatives
I just bought a brand new home and the builder got different paint all over the garage floor. Do I need to remove those various paints marks before I do this. If so how do I remove paint marks? Will I need to decrease and acid wash?
So acid etching is good enough you dont gotta sand the floor down?
How do you address the cracks before coating? The cracks are the MAIN reason I want to epoxy coat my garage floor.
get you some self leveling concrete tubes from big box store and follow instructions
Bernie Hunt use a compatable tube of caulking and a drywall taping knife. squeeze it flat on the surface as you would do with drywall mud before any coats go down
Mark Wright answer is best but add some fine dust free sand into fast set epoxy so it will fill cracks better especially if they are wide.
Texas Caulking...for wide open spaces!
The best solution for cracks is a product called Sikaflex self leveling caulk. It’s made to move. Epoxy will get hard and just crack again, and regular caulk is definitely not the way to do it. Put in the sikaflex, let it sit for 10 minutes, then spread a light layer of sand on the crack you filled. The sand will soak in a bit so you’ll need to add more to some spots. In the end the fix will be much less noticeable.
You will have to put backer rod or some way to stop the sika from running down deep, as the caulk is runny. I used cotton cord for some spots that were very narrow and back rod didn’t fit.
Nice
The acid is..citric acid like in citric fruits. Ive done this a few times. I recommend you let it dry fully for 24 hrs and then use the epoxy
Where can you get decent Diy kits? Have an 850 sq ft garage to do.
Would you recommend this for cement under covered parking?
great picture ...what's it mean?
I need product that will seal and act as barrier between concrete and galvanized steel ? I want to acid treat the concrete prior to putting down epoxy flooring. My building is steel and the perimeter base is galvanized steel and of course we don't want the acid on the steel. I was thinking of this product ( DAP 3 Self Leveling Concrete 9-oz Gray Paintable Advanced Sealant Caulk ) .I would appreciate and suggestions . Thanks
do i need to degrease if im using a power-wash?
What product did they use on the floor?
Can you apply this onto an Asphalt Floor ?
What brands of floor coat did you use?
Use an elastomeric acrylic caulk and fill the cracks. Let it fully cure then apply the epoxy. You will have much better results.
A couple of comments: 1) Why weren't the cracks filled before painting? 2) A European handyman used epoxy paint on the cinderblock walls of my mother's basement. A few months later the white started to turn yellow in some parts. Why did that happen?
How you not gonna fix them cracks?
Have done that commercially. We add grit into the second coat for better traction.
May I know what degrease, the acid, and Epoxy name and where to get them all at one stop?
Hmm...I thought shotblasting and grinding to a Concrete surface profile level 3 was the best for adhesion? ICRI
you would have thought they would have fill the cracks first
those cracks were put in when the concrete was laid and are necessary for any garage as concrete will crack on its own and can cause uneven ground if these pre-cracks were not done.
Iron, these are not control cracks that were put in.
You're Welcome!
It's obvious the owner is an idiot to not have the concert crack first taken care...dumbass🖕🏼🖕🏼🖕🏼🖕🏼
Many times, those cracks are because the base wasn't prepared well. Nothing will get rid of them if the floors heave during winter months. They simple open, and close during expansion and contraction You would have to remove the floor, rebase it, and then pour new. But an idiot/dumbass commenting wouldn't know that.
IRONTOSS those are,not expansion joints, those run straight. What we all saw was a cracked slab that should have been repaired. Literally 10 minutes work it would have been better.
Does that paint hold up to heavy use and abuse?
I'm genuinely shocked that they didn't fix the cracks, but it makes you wonder if you really should. They will always reemerge eventually. Plus, spreading the flakes hides all those imperfections.
Dad Jeans Mafia
Nice people. Not sure if Assad was off camera but where were the EPA hazadarous-materials respirators to filter the acid fumes or at least powerful floor fans to disperse them.
Reminds me of when I got my restricted pesticide license in 1974. True or False 10 questions, grade-your-own test. 1- Fish are tough critters. Pesticides don't bother them none. True or False?
They make every thing look so Easy Peasy never do things go so smoothly when your Wife decides she knows more then the Pros
So no primer 1st? I watched a different video and they said u had to sand the floor then clean it then prime then epoxy is this not true? Or can i do it just like this video
So u can paint it over rust?
after you mix the apoxy, can you close it back up and use it later, or does it have to be used all at once?
+Neil Campos Mixing the two part epoxy starts a chemical reaction that can not be stopped. They said the pot life for this product is 2-2.5 hours, not sure if that includes the 30 minute set up time.
Where do you get you tissue with pictures on it?
Does anybody know if i need to etch my brand new fresh poured concrete? also i want to epoxy an interior room and acid will be to difficult to wash away, if i need to etch will grinding and sanding be the best option?
The etching makes the surface rough. fresh concrete is smooth. Rough is better for paint.
dont acid etch indoors, rent a floor grinder from home depot. use a moisture meter on floors before painting. make sure its suitable for paint
Don’t acid etch. The only way to properly prepare a garage floor to accept epoxy and form a proper bond is to diamond grind the floor (shot blasting also works). I guarantee that this floor looks terrible now and is peeling up.
Jon Young I etched my floor at least three times, then hired what I thought were pros to install. They etched again, put the floor down and now there is hardly anything left. All I can say is you are correct.
What is part a and part b material?
Will this stop moles digging under the garage>?
What happens if theres sealer on the floor?
Question: I’m a first-time home owner and was considering doing this for my sunroom that used to be carpeted; any thoughts or suggestions?
I’ve already torn up the carpet and filled the cracks, but there is this yellowish carpet glue still remaining on large portions of the sunroom. Not sure how much of an issue that is
Hire a professional, epoxy yellows in the sun. I work for a professional company called Garage Kings. This floor will look like garbage in less than a year. It’s expensive to have to redo your floor 2-3 times over then have a salty taste in your mouth about the whole idea of epoxy coatings. 60% of our jobs is replacing current floors
Everything you mention IS an issue with an epoxy coating. If you still want to go with it rent a concrete finisher from Home Depot or the like and prep the concrete for good surface to adhere to,(this will remove everrything) lay out your epoxy floor adding your chips if you want or leave clean then seal with clear coat but not epoxy that WILL yellow but go with a poly coating. ;
What?
How you breathe that acid.. ?
What happened to the cracks in the floor 🤔