We can not stress enough the VALUE of having a laser level when doing this kind of work (or even checking the condition of the floors )! If you are interested, check out the link : DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Red, 3-Beam (DW089K) by Dewalt amzn.to/3xNbY3K It works well but this is NOT the most affordable version. We actually have 3 different brands and they ALL work great. If you are looking for more affordable options, check out the video description or our other floor leveling videos in the following playlist : czcams.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html Just FYI. These Amazon links are affiliate links. They are free for you to use AND Amazon will pay us a small commission if you use them - Many thanks if you do. It helps us keep making videos!
I have been searching for an "every man's" version of this process for my porcelain tile project and your video is a HUGE help! Thank you for your time and assistance!
Good video, setting a few drywall screws in the subfloor at your finished height (before pouring) helps make everything go much faster. Takes a bit of time to get setup, but less time to apply self levelling. Thorough video tho
Now this is what I need it. My 100 year old hardwood floor that I discovered when I pulled up the carpet has a low spot that ends in a big hole that goes under the wall! So I was wondering how I could do the floor leveler without it just going down to the basement or wherever it ended up. Now I see. I can put my plywood down and then do the level out in the center of the floor. Or just a little bit on the plywood. I watch the rest of the video, but this is the solution I was looking for. It seems simple, but I didn’t think of it without your help. Thanks!
I have seen home that use this and the structure wasnt secure. In just years of settling it can crack especially if there is tile on top of it.. tile will not flex like the self leveler. It's always good to try and fix the problem from down below by suring up the structure maybe sistering up some wood and adding a beam or two.. what all work did you do before to prepare the structure itself?
All depends on how much give or deflection you have in your floor joists. In this house , we added significant supports in the basement = zero deflection. But something to consider. Thx for watching from the UK - cheers!
Hey, nice video, however, although you correctly state you can just pour over the wood subfloor. You also don’t show any lath being used, which you point out is not required. The technical data sheet in the priming section specifically states the following: “PRIMING: Prime the wood surface with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer undiluted and allow the primer to dry overnight (12 hrs. min., 24 hrs. max.) After priming with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer, install 3.2 or 3.4 galvanized, expanded diamond metal lath mesh (“plaster lath”) to the subfloor, stapling approximately every 6 inches to prevent the mesh from “floating”. Overlap adjacent pieces of lath approximately 1”
Not a bad video, but … if you want a truly level surface, use a spiked roller. It makes a HUGE difference. It constantly ‘breaks’ the surface tension and the product flattens like magic. I’ve done jobs with and without a spiked roller, and I wilL NEVER do a job without one again! Using a screed, and pouring in batches, will inevitably leave you with a degree of high and low spots.
Hey Freedom…, Sounds like a project nonetheless. I’d be sure to make sure all is good with structure below. A sturdy base is very important! Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons Thanks. Yep. Gonna temporarily prop plywood around the flange (will cut a circle to surround the pipe) up with a 2 x 4 from below in the basement ... then screw into it from above through the bath floor. My dad says this will level out the floor where the water and toilet weight caused it to sink ..?
Hey Edgar… We did hardwood - we cover it in this video : How To Install A Hardwood Floor | Tips For Hardwood Floor Installation czcams.com/video/X61m8ooIzDw/video.html Thx for watching!
I enjoyed the video, but I noticed the Amazon links to the Henry are for 564 and 565, not the 555 and 554 you show in the video. Perhaps they have changed the numbers?
Hey Mings…, Always best to start at the structure. We were able to jack up the floor and resupported some, but due to the age of the house and how long it had been sagging, we had to do the finish work with the floor leveler. You are on the right track! Thx for watching!
You mentioned using another product to make up the difference to the feathered edge. What is that product? And did you use it because this other product can be used for less than 1/8 inch?
Hey Mmy…, We did use this product and feathered the edge and found that it did not crack or crumble at the feathered edge. They don’t advertise it as something that can go that thin… but. we found that it worked fine. I believe Henry makes a different product that is advertised to go to a feathered edge, but I don’t have the number. Your local big box store may be able to find another product they will do the same thing. Thx for watching!
I think I came up with an interesting way to use this leveling compound, please tell me if you think if would work because it's just an idea that I haven't actually used yet. On an old wood plank floor that has some dips and uneven areas I was wondering if before pouring the leveler what if I used redgard or a water proofing product like that on the cracks / spaces between the planks to seal them before using the leveler. Would the leveler have any problem sticking to and hardening up over a product such as redgard
Hey Dwayne, Hard to say for sure. Best way to know is to try it in a small out of the way and see how it works. It worked for us. Sometimes it’s about trial and error. Thx for watching!
@@bitchasz3shat3 sorry I never got to try it. The customer changed their mind on some of the design ideas but I really wanted to try it out. It just seemed like it would work. Maybe I will have to build a small model in my garage and give it a try. If I do and it works or not I will write the results here.
@@dwaynenero535 no need to do all that, I was just curious. Feather finish or some type of quick set mortar is what I've seen used in the joints to seal and keep self leveler from running through.
Hey Ryan, You are correct. You have to tape or caulk any seas or holes to prevent it running the the floor below. We poured multiple batches in same day. Then waited till it was dry to add a second layer ( over night - but depends on room temp ). Thx for watching!
Can you now put wood flooring on top of this stuff I can’t figure out where you can or not ? I want to put three-quarter oak over this product I need to do that with ?
I would like to use that product to level dips on my flat roof sealed with elastomeric sealer, before putting new sheathing over the roof, then new rubber roof. I don't really need the leveler to stick to the roof, as sheathing over will be screwed down through old sheathing and into joists. Would it work, despite the condition of using over wood base?
I have the option between the original 3/4” sub floor nd the 5/8ths - 1’ ply I am adding -so I could apply self leveler in between. I can see this at the very least reducing the number of sheets of different thickness I need to order for the second layer of subfloor. What are your thoughts? Only worked with leveler 2 times both concrete.
Hey k.m…, I guess it could work. We’ve been walking on it for a year as we finish this reno and haven’t seen one crack after pouring it on top of plywood. So that would be my first choice. Your call though… Thx for watching!
Im working on a DIY project changing the floor tiles in my 1/2 bathroom. I had a layer of plywood underalyemnt right above the plywood subfloor. Both plywood layers (subfloor and underlayment) were glued together and nailed. I removed the top plywood layer (underlayment), but this damaged the subfloor along where the glue was applied. The top layer/ply in the subfloor came out along with the top plywood underlayment wherever glue was applied. Do u think I can use self leveler on the subfloor to level it or should I change the subfloor as well? what is the best way to proceed? Thanks
Hey Ab…, How bad is the damage? What flooring is going on top. Tile needs a thick solid surface to keep the tiles from flexing and cracking. Vinyl plank is flexible. So it all depends on the goal of final result. Thx for watching.
@@Housebarons Hi Dave, thanks for replying; I really appreciate it. The damage is 1 ply deep into the subloor. It is along the glue lines. I have 4 areas/patches that are affected. The largest one is 2.5 inches at its widest and 38 inches long along the floor, and the depth is 1 ply. My subfloor is about 3/4 inch from what I measured. I'm planning on installing porcelain tiles to replace the old ones. Will probably use the Schluter Ditra system over 1 inch plywood (underlayment + my current 3/4 inch subfloor). I'm thinking I can possibly use LevelQuick self leveling underlayment to level out the subfloor in those areas, before screwing on a layer of underlayment to have atleast an inch of plywood depth before I can then install the ditra membrane and then tile. This is my first DIY project so I wanted some reassurance on the plan before moving ahead with it. Or do you think I should change the plywood subfloor since it does seem like there was water damage at some point especially around the toilet flange. The toilet did move around a lot before I removed it. Not sure if it moved bc it was not screwed on correctly or if it had to do with water damage to the subfloor around the toilet flange. The subfloor around the flange toilet, although it shows signs of dried water, is very dry and sturdy though. I'd provide images, if I could. What do u think is the best option to move forward with?
Hey Daniel, Anything that dries quickly. It’s just to plug areas where the fluid can seep through any penetrations below to another area of the house. Thx for watching.
After reading several of the comments, I understand that nails or screws will not penetrate the layment. So the area where the layment is used I'd have to glue the oak floor to the layment. I hope I can find a glue that will adhere to the wood and layment. Any ideas?
Hey @stricklandgarageaviation2864 , We actually have that same project coming up. There are glues that will adhere to concrete which is what the floor leveler is. The caution is moisture. If you are on a slab, you have to make sure you do a moisture test (cover a 2 foot x 2 foot square with plastic and tape down the edges. Wait 24 hrs. peal up the plastic. If the concrete under the plastic is wet the next day, you have a moisture issue. ) One idea we might consider ( that I found online ) is liquid nails. It will also bond with concrete. Hope that helps. thx for watching
I have a question. Would this work over "Ice & Water Shield?" We had to cover our plywood floor with ice & water shield to avoid water/air from below. I'm wondering if the floor leveler would work over that? Thanks!
Howdy sir. I just watched your video and have a question; how long does the drying/curing of the concrete take? Our situation isn't as extreme as what you showed but we do have some high and low spots. Thanks for creating this video. Drew
Hey Drew, Concrete is temp dependent. It sets faster when weather is hotter. But at room temp, it will harden in a couple hours but you should wait at least overnight before walking on it. When you pour a concrete sidewalk, It takes 28?days to completely set, but after a day or two it should be good to bear traffic. Thx for watching.
Thanks for the video. How has the floor stood up? The instructions for Henry 555 say to put down expanded metal lathe before pouring out the product if the subfloor is wood. Have you had any problems?
Hey, great video. Was wondering how strong is the smell from the primer and or leveler? I wanted to do one end of a room in my house then cover with vinyl sheet flooring. Wasn't sure it the smell was too strong since it's in my house I'm living in. Where I live it wouldn't be good to have open doors and windows over night. Thanks. Appreciate any suggestions. Oh and abt how long u think it takes to completely dry?
Hey Patricia, I dont remember the smell being any issue at all. You could check the label to be sure. We left to to dry over night - but you could probably gently walk on it in 3-4 hours. Concrete gets stronger the longer you wait. Thx for watching!
The primer will gas out an enclosed space for a good 8 hours. It’s not toxic to breath but the smell is very strong and can cause temporary breathing irritation if you stay around for it, and I wouldn’t be surprised if you’d get a bonus headache by hour 8.
Hey Lenora, It’s a concrete product so at room temp it sets up in 2-3 hrs but should wait 24 hrs for regular traffic. I don’t remember the exact product for super thin application. But check the Henry product line. Your local big box home store likely has similar. I found this link : usa.sika.com/en/construction/floor-covering/flooring-levelers-patches.html That goes from a feathered edge up to 1.5 inches. Hope that helps! Thx for watching!
Hi I'm hoping you could help me🙏!!!! we painted the OSB subfloor with latex Zinsser odor blocker. Will the primer ahear to a painted floor or can I cover the floor with Luna. Will the primer and selfleving mix ahear to Luna. Thank you so much for any and all suggestions 👍
Hey Sharon, I’m a little confused as to what the layers are. The leveler we used said it would stick to osb. The leveler bag should indicate what it will stick to. When in doubt, I would call them to be sure. As for zinzer - same thing - Some of those primers say “ will adhere to painted surface without sanding. Regular primer typically will not stick. As for the Luna flooring, if it is flooring you are covering, I would rather pull it up. If it is your final floor, it should lay over everything if it is a floating floor. Hope that helps, Thx for watching.
Hi Dave, thank you for your responding. Basically we tore up the old carpet to the OSB subfloor. We are going to be installing the LifeProof Vinal Plank Flooring. However the floor is so unlevel we need to mix a batch Of the floor leveling compound. But before I do I need to know if the primer that must go down before the leveling compound will ahear to the OBS subfloor that was painted with Zinsser odor water base paint primer. I'm afraid the primer needed for the self leveling compound won't ahear to the Zinsser water base odor blocker. Unfortunately the can of Zinsser does not give any information on this. I'm worried the primer needed for the self level won't ahear and possibly cause to lift and start to bow. This is the 1st time I have ever tried to tackle a DIY floor. Or would you suggest putting Luan 1/4 underlayment over the OSB. Then do the selfleving to the underlayment
Hey Sharon, Best I can do is make an educated guess. That zinsser primer is meant to be covered by other paint. It is made to stick to, and have paint stick to it. So my guess is - the primer for the leveler should stick to it. We put that Henry leveler primer down on old vinyl like tile and then leveler and it stuck amazingly well. Plus, the leveler is a pretty strong concrete. I expected it would chip around the edges where we spread it more thin than recommended. Never did . And - you are laying vinyl plank over it - should be pretty stable. You could do a small spot somewhere in a corner or out of the way - paint on the leveler primer- then some leveler. After it dries - see if you can pop it up. Actually, we have been walking on the leveler for months now as that floor won’t be covered till we are close to done with the renovation. It is solid as when we poured the leveler. Hope that helps.
I think that's a great ideal to try a small corner. I can't thank you enough for all you input. May God bless you & yours !!! Thank you so Much ❤️. I'll message you and let you know the results 👍
Thanks for video. This self leveling product does not need a metal lath installed on the subfloor, it can just be poured over plywood (primed/sealed)? I purchased one that does require the lath and I don’t see how to feather the edge if metal lath has to be used. Looks like a should have bought this product.
The technical data sheet for Henry 555 does actually specify lath for a wood substrate. It’s under the priming section. “PRIMING: Prime the wood surface with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer undiluted and allow the primer to dry overnight (12 hrs. min., 24 hrs. max.) After priming with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer, install 3.2 or 3.4 galvanized, expanded diamond metal lath mesh (“plaster lath”) to the subfloor, stapling approximately every 6 inches to prevent the mesh from “floating”. Overlap adjacent pieces of lath approximately 1”
Converting my garage into a ADU. My bathroom is 5x8 and i am installing a 32"x60" shower pan. I am just leveling the pan only and not the rest of the bathroom. What I did not realize when I put down a 2x4 at 33" across, that the self leveler would seep down below the 2x4. I spent over an hour just trying to keep it from seeping through, what a mess. I did not see anything on the internet about how to level just the shower pad and was completely unprepared to stop the leak. What is the official way to prevent this? The 2x4 was straight. In hindsight maybe i should of taped the 2x4 to the cement or set down the 2x4 and then caulked it and let it dry then do the pour? Your thoughts.
Hey Memo, I think caulking is the recommended way to stop the leveler from seeping thru gaps. but tape should work if it’s strong/ sticky. Sound like an interesting experience for sure! Thx for watching!
@@bitchasz3shat3 You know my plumber recommended just putting some folded up napkins along the bottom and no fluid will soak through and it worked perfectly!! Try it.
I live in an old house. The first floor was not level so I had contractor rip up the porcelain tile and replace with vinyl flooring. He did not level the floor 100%. I suspect the reason he failed is because he did the job entirely on his own. Judging by your video, the job can be done in a much more controlled manner with two people rather than one.
The cabinet floor under my sink is bowed downward about an inch. Is this product to thing to use in order to level it prior to my putting down vinyl tile? The area is only about 2 X 3 feet.
Hey John, First - get to the bottom of the cause. Sounds like a bad or long time leak. Can you get to the problem underneath? If not, I’d tear up the floor from above and see how bad the damage is. We’ve seen water damage where the water leak literally caused the wood to disappear!!! If you added floor leveler to such a problem all you get is a collapse. Once all is fixed, you may not need floor leveler at all. Remember that leveler id concrete - it’s. heavy. That’s why we used layers of thin plywood to take up extra space in the dip before adding leveler. Hope that helps Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons Thx for your speedy and informed reply. The "bowed" condition was present under the cabinet when I bought the house 25 years ago. It has never moved, gotten worse or anything else. There is no leak, as the area is bone dry. I HAVE thought of plywood in the space, but it seems so minor, I thought of the self-leveling solution since the area is so small. I enjoyed your video presentation; quite thorough and educational!
I see the process and in theory it does indeed level. The real question is, how durable is it in the long term, and will it break up when hardwood is nailed over it?
Hey Rachel, Hmmmmm. Good question. You have to look up the specs on the exact primer you were buying. You can find the specs online. They will tell you what it will and will not adhere to. I’m thinking there should be one out there that you could use over a painted floor. Thx for watching!
@@ChillyDippers why prime it when it's the same material .makes no sense . That's like painting a primer on a painted surface only to put another paint coat onotp .makes no sense and is a sheer waste of primer and time .
@@tristancraven3685 the levelers I have used say that - if you apply second coat within 12 hours, no primer needed. But if you wait a day or more, need to prime. I think the difference is that paint is very thin and doesn't shrink like portland cement based products, and the primer is needed to maintain the bond when the second layer also shrinks
I did a very poor job of trying to use self-leveling compound on a plywood subfloor. My mix was too thick and it needs to be removed and done correctly. I've tried some concrete remover spray to loosen it up a bit, with little success. Next was a grinder with a diamond disc. Besides the dust, it wasn't very productive. Any advice? Thanks.
Hey Brian, We once tackled a 2 inch too thick pour of concrete by cutting groves about 1 inch a part with a diamond tipped circular saw blade. The hit it from the side with a hammer. Hope that helps! Thx for watching!
Hey Charles, Don’t think you need to prime in between pours. I’d double check on the web site. I know they talk about using metal lathe. Seems like rebar makes sense…if it’s thick. We did not use metal and it’s held up w/o cracks. Thx for watching!
Lol I bought a Warrior brand corded chuck drill from Harbor Freight once. Thing started to spark and then caught on fire after just a couple uses mixing paint... I exclusively use Flex tool cordless now with a lifeline warranty. Haven't had a single problem with any of them and the battery life gets me through the jobs.
Hey ale…, It allows you a fair amount of time to work with it. Just mix in a small batch for first application if you are worried, but I don’t think you should be concerned. Thx for watching!
So, I wonder if the Henry 555 product will flex, with that wooden floor, and not break? Otherwise, that portland cement product will produce a lot of grit and dust and chunks under that floor, in a few years...
Hey Dan, We laid down plywood over existing wood floor. The finished floor we plan to lay down over the concrete floor leveler will be engineered hardwood which is a “ floating floor “ -, a click lock flooring over a thin pad. IF we were choosing a different hardwood floor, glue could be used. But that seems a bit of unnecessary work for our taste. Hope that helps. Thx for watching.
Hey Bob, Henry 549 looks to be a faster drying ( 15 min ) mix compared to what we used. Doing our whole floor, I would prefer to not be time constrained as jobs always take longer than I plan. The benefit is that the Hebert 549 goes to a feather edge whereas the 555 had down to an 1/8 inch edge limit. So pros and cons. It looks like Henry 549 bonds to many materials. Just double check that will work with what you are doing. It has its pros and cons so it looks to be a personal judgement call. Thx for watching!
Hey Bob, The feathered edge is the outside edge where the material is spread to the thickness of a feather. Some mixes can not be spread to a depth of less than an 1/8 inch ( like what we used) or else it would crack and flake. What you are using can have a paper thin edge which makes it nice for an unnoticeable transition from existing floor to the floor leveler. Hope that makes sense.
And horses are self breeding, but if you are dealing with a special racehorse lineage, you use your hands and an artificial vagina just to be extra certain that a pegasus doesn't come flying in when you're not looking and screw up that racehorse lineage. Ever seen a racehorse with wings? Me neither. So as long as this stuff is thin enough, it ought to self level, with or without manual intervention
Great except that the actual instructions don't say good to an 1/8th of an inch. What rehy want you to do is fill until an 1/8th of an inch ABOVE the highest point. At $40 a bag it gets expensive.
We can not stress enough the VALUE of having a laser level when doing this kind of work (or even checking the condition of the floors )!
If you are interested, check out the link :
DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Red, 3-Beam (DW089K)
by Dewalt
amzn.to/3xNbY3K
It works well but this is NOT the most affordable version. We actually have 3 different brands and they ALL work great. If you are looking for more affordable options, check out the video description or our other floor leveling videos in the following playlist :
czcams.com/play/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6.html
Just FYI. These Amazon links are affiliate links. They are free for you to use AND Amazon will pay us a small commission if you use them - Many thanks if you do. It helps us keep making videos!
I have been searching for an "every man's" version of this process for my porcelain tile project and your video is a HUGE help! Thank you for your time and assistance!
Good video, setting a few drywall screws in the subfloor at your finished height (before pouring) helps make everything go much faster. Takes a bit of time to get setup, but less time to apply self levelling. Thorough video tho
Hey rcook…,
Thx for the comment and view!
Now this is what I need it. My 100 year old hardwood floor that I discovered when I pulled up the carpet has a low spot that ends in a big hole that goes under the wall! So I was wondering how I could do the floor leveler without it just going down to the basement or wherever it ended up. Now I see. I can put my plywood down and then do the level out in the center of the floor. Or just a little bit on the plywood. I watch the rest of the video, but this is the solution I was looking for. It seems simple, but I didn’t think of it without your help. Thanks!
Hey sherry,
Great! Glad it helped. Make sure you fix the cause before releveling!
Thx for watching!
Thanks for the video.
No worries! Thx for watching!
Lucky to find a straight stud.
Hey Mia,
Yup! Gotta live an old house!
Thx for watching!
I have seen home that use this and the structure wasnt secure. In just years of settling it can crack especially if there is tile on top of it.. tile will not flex like the self leveler. It's always good to try and fix the problem from down below by suring up the structure maybe sistering up some wood and adding a beam or two.. what all work did you do before to prepare the structure itself?
Hey P,
Agreed. We did support that floor from underneath with double joist and floor jacks.
Thx for watching !
@@Housebarons I would love to see videos of that process...or ones similar...we always need more good carpentry videos put here.
Thank you so much! What a super helpful video. I feel very confident to do my project tonight. =)
Hey Stephanie,
Sounds great! Hope all goes well. Thx for watching!
Surely a screed will just break down over time on a wood floor due to so much movement? in the U.K we just wouldn't do it
All depends on how much give or deflection you have in your floor joists.
In this house , we added significant supports in the basement = zero deflection. But something to consider.
Thx for watching from the UK - cheers!
What product did you use to caulk the floor seams?
Hey, nice video, however, although you correctly state you can just pour over the wood subfloor. You also don’t show any lath being used, which you point out is not required. The technical data sheet in the priming section specifically states the following:
“PRIMING:
Prime the wood surface with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer undiluted and allow the primer to dry overnight (12 hrs. min., 24 hrs. max.) After priming with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer, install 3.2 or 3.4 galvanized, expanded diamond metal lath mesh (“plaster lath”) to the subfloor, stapling approximately
every 6 inches to prevent the mesh from “floating”. Overlap adjacent pieces of lath approximately 1”
Hey Bob,
True. Our application was fairly thin. Thus far it has help up w/o cracking at all.
Thx for watching!
Cool video
Not a bad video, but … if you want a truly level surface, use a spiked roller. It makes a HUGE difference. It constantly ‘breaks’ the surface tension and the product flattens like magic. I’ve done jobs with and without a spiked roller, and I wilL NEVER do a job without one again! Using a screed, and pouring in batches, will inevitably leave you with a degree of high and low spots.
Thanks for the tip! Thx for watching!
it is SELF leveler..........wow!
In this way, will the cement floor crack?
Hey DJ..,
We have not had an issue with cracking. Probably depends on how much give is in the floor - how thick the subfloor is.
Thx for watching.
@@Housebarons Thank you for your detailed answer， I wish your channel more popularity.
Awesome. I am doing my smaller area bathroom with a toilet in one corner. Thoughts?
Hey Freedom…,
Sounds like a project nonetheless. I’d be sure to make sure all is good with structure below. A sturdy base is very important!
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons Thanks. Yep. Gonna temporarily prop plywood around the flange (will cut a circle to surround the pipe) up with a 2 x 4 from below in the basement ... then screw into it from above through the bath floor. My dad says this will level out the floor where the water and toilet weight caused it to sink ..?
This is exactly the video I needed. Bless you!!!!
Hey @MH-yj4qq ,
Terrific! Thx for watching!
Pretty cool video bro.
Appreciate it! Thx for watching!
Finally the video i looked for
Hey ser….,
Awesome! Thx for watching
Did you put tile or hardwood floors once it was done?
Hey Edgar…
We did hardwood - we cover it in this video : How To Install A Hardwood Floor | Tips For Hardwood Floor Installation
czcams.com/video/X61m8ooIzDw/video.html
Thx for watching!
I enjoyed the video, but I noticed the Amazon links to the Henry are for 564 and 565, not the 555 and 554 you show in the video. Perhaps they have changed the numbers?
Hey Kr,
They have changed or added new numbers. I looked them up. Seems like new numbers are comparable.
Thx for watching!
I was wondering if there was any structure under the floor, and if so, would fixing the underneath structure make the floor leveled?
Hey Mings…,
Always best to start at the structure. We were able to jack up the floor and resupported some, but due to the age of the house and how long it had been sagging, we had to do the finish work with the floor leveler. You are on the right track!
Thx for watching!
You mentioned using another product to make up the difference to the feathered edge. What is that product? And did you use it because this other product can be used for less than 1/8 inch?
Hey Mmy…,
We did use this product and feathered the edge and found that it did not crack or crumble at the feathered edge. They don’t advertise it as something that can go that thin… but. we found that it worked fine.
I believe Henry makes a different product that is advertised to go to a feathered edge, but I don’t have the number.
Your local big box store may be able to find another product they will do the same thing.
Thx for watching!
I think I came up with an interesting way to use this leveling compound, please tell me if you think if would work because it's just an idea that I haven't actually used yet. On an old wood plank floor that has some dips and uneven areas I was wondering if before pouring the leveler what if I used redgard or a water proofing product like that on the cracks / spaces between the planks to seal them before using the leveler. Would the leveler have any problem sticking to and hardening up over a product such as redgard
Hey Dwayne,
Hard to say for sure. Best way to know is to try it in a small out of the way and see how it works. It worked for us. Sometimes it’s about trial and error.
Thx for watching!
Did it work? The primer is specific to the self leveler the red guard might not agree with it.
@@bitchasz3shat3 sorry I never got to try it. The customer changed their mind on some of the design ideas but I really wanted to try it out. It just seemed like it would work. Maybe I will have to build a small model in my garage and give it a try. If I do and it works or not I will write the results here.
@@dwaynenero535 no need to do all that, I was just curious. Feather finish or some type of quick set mortar is what I've seen used in the joints to seal and keep self leveler from running through.
you can use screws to indicated level.
Hey Sam,
Nice tip! Thanks. And thx for watching.
Questions:
1. Why no trim around the vent holes to prevent drainage?
2. How much time is max between pours?
Hey Ryan,
You are correct. You have to tape or caulk any seas or holes to prevent it running the the floor below.
We poured multiple batches in same day. Then waited till it was dry to add a second layer ( over night - but depends on room temp ).
Thx for watching!
You were not required to prime the freshly set “first-pour”? Just checking.
For thicker pours, up to 1.1/2, do you know if rebar could be used?
Thanks for the info guys. I grew up in a house with those plaster slat walls. Fun to see.
Hey Peter,
😃 Thx for watching!
You know it’s old, when it has horsehair. Those men back then were masters
What happens when the leveling material falls into cracks between the floorboards?
It will drip through. Best to tape them unless the crack doesn’t go all the way.
Can you now put wood flooring on top of this stuff I can’t figure out where you can or not ? I want to put three-quarter oak over this product I need to do that with ?
Hey Larry,
Sure could but securing it may be challenging - maybe glue down???
Thx for watching!
Can you nail a hardwood floor into that leveler?
Hey Justin,
Nope - its basically concrete. Maybe use floating engineered hardwood???
Thx for watching!
I would like to use that product to level dips on my flat roof sealed with elastomeric sealer, before
putting new sheathing over the roof, then new rubber roof. I don't really need the leveler to stick to
the roof, as sheathing over will be screwed down through old sheathing and into joists. Would it work,
despite the condition of using over wood base?
Hey Rocky,
Never used it in such a way. Best to contact the manufacturer. Thx for watching!
Thank you Mates for your great video and sharing. This really helps me and what i need.
Hey Software…,
Awesome! Thx for watching!
I have the option between the original 3/4” sub floor nd the 5/8ths - 1’ ply I am adding -so I could apply self leveler in between. I can see this at the very least reducing the number of sheets of different thickness I need to order for the second layer of subfloor. What are your thoughts? Only worked with leveler 2 times both concrete.
Hey k.m…,
I guess it could work. We’ve been walking on it for a year as we finish this reno and haven’t seen one crack after pouring it on top of plywood. So that would be my first choice. Your call though…
Thx for watching!
Im working on a DIY project changing the floor tiles in my 1/2 bathroom. I had a layer of plywood underalyemnt right above the plywood subfloor. Both plywood layers (subfloor and underlayment) were glued together and nailed. I removed the top plywood layer (underlayment), but this damaged the subfloor along where the glue was applied. The top layer/ply in the subfloor came out along with the top plywood underlayment wherever glue was applied. Do u think I can use self leveler on the subfloor to level it or should I change the subfloor as well? what is the best way to proceed? Thanks
Hey Ab…,
How bad is the damage? What flooring is going on top. Tile needs a thick solid surface to keep the tiles from flexing and cracking.
Vinyl plank is flexible. So it all depends on the goal of final result.
Thx for watching.
@@Housebarons Hi Dave, thanks for replying; I really appreciate it. The damage is 1 ply deep into the subloor. It is along the glue lines. I have 4 areas/patches that are affected. The largest one is 2.5 inches at its widest and 38 inches long along the floor, and the depth is 1 ply. My subfloor is about 3/4 inch from what I measured. I'm planning on installing porcelain tiles to replace the old ones. Will probably use the Schluter Ditra system over 1 inch plywood (underlayment + my current 3/4 inch subfloor). I'm thinking I can possibly use LevelQuick self leveling underlayment to level out the subfloor in those areas, before screwing on a layer of underlayment to have atleast an inch of plywood depth before I can then install the ditra membrane and then tile. This is my first DIY project so I wanted some reassurance on the plan before moving ahead with it.
Or do you think I should change the plywood subfloor since it does seem like there was water damage at some point especially around the toilet flange. The toilet did move around a lot before I removed it. Not sure if it moved bc it was not screwed on correctly or if it had to do with water damage to the subfloor around the toilet flange. The subfloor around the flange toilet, although it shows signs of dried water, is very dry and sturdy though.
I'd provide images, if I could. What do u think is the best option to move forward with?
what type of caulk do you recommend for the joints?
Hey Daniel,
Anything that dries quickly. It’s just to plug areas where the fluid can seep through any penetrations below to another area of the house.
Thx for watching.
But what about the girders and floor supports? Adding more weight won't help the reason why it started to sag.
Hey WX…,
True. That’s why we supported it from the basement 1st. Thx for watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the process.
Hey Jonathan,
Glad it was helpful! Thx for watching!
Can you install 3/4" refinished hardwood over this layment? Will the staples penetrate the Henry layment?
After reading several of the comments, I understand that nails or screws will not penetrate the layment. So the area where the layment is used I'd have to glue the oak floor to the layment. I hope I can find a glue that will adhere to the wood and layment. Any ideas?
Hey @stricklandgarageaviation2864 ,
We actually have that same project coming up. There are glues that will adhere to concrete which is what the floor leveler is. The caution is moisture. If you are on a slab, you have to make sure you do a moisture test (cover a 2 foot x 2 foot square with plastic and tape down the edges. Wait 24 hrs. peal up the plastic. If the concrete under the plastic is wet the next day, you have a moisture issue. ) One idea we might consider ( that I found online ) is liquid nails. It will also bond with concrete.
Hope that helps.
thx for watching
I have a question. Would this work over "Ice & Water Shield?" We had to cover our plywood floor with ice & water shield to avoid water/air from below. I'm wondering if the floor leveler would work over that? Thanks!
Hey Lisa,
Not 109% sure. May want to call manufacturer to be sure.
Thx for watching!
Howdy sir. I just watched your video and have a question; how long does the drying/curing of the concrete take? Our situation isn't as extreme as what you showed but we do have some high and low spots.
Thanks for creating this video.
Drew
Hey Drew,
Concrete is temp dependent. It sets faster when weather is hotter. But at room temp, it will harden in a couple hours but you should wait at least overnight before walking on it. When you pour a concrete sidewalk, It takes 28?days to completely set, but after a day or two it should be good to bear traffic.
Thx for watching.
Thanks for the video. How has the floor stood up? The instructions for Henry 555 say to put down expanded metal lathe before pouring out the product if the subfloor is wood. Have you had any problems?
Hey Mark,
No problems, no cracks, no lathe. Very happy with it so far.
Thx for watching!
Hey, great video. Was wondering how strong is the smell from the primer and or leveler? I wanted to do one end of a room in my house then cover with vinyl sheet flooring. Wasn't sure it the smell was too strong since it's in my house I'm living in. Where I live it wouldn't be good to have open doors and windows over night.
Thanks. Appreciate any suggestions. Oh and abt how long u think it takes to completely dry?
Hey Patricia,
I dont remember the smell being any issue at all. You could check the label to be sure.
We left to to dry over night - but you could probably gently walk on it in 3-4 hours. Concrete gets stronger the longer you wait.
Thx for watching!
The primer will gas out an enclosed space for a good 8 hours. It’s not toxic to breath but the smell is very strong and can cause temporary breathing irritation if you stay around for it, and I wouldn’t be surprised if you’d get a bonus headache by hour 8.
Would metal mesh lath work better than using pieces of plywood?
Hey kch…,
About 4 hags. Lath makes sense if you can keep it very flat.
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons thanks
How long did it take to dry? What was the other product you use for the floor that was more than 1/8 off in height?
Hey Lenora,
It’s a concrete product so at room temp it sets up in 2-3 hrs but should wait 24 hrs for regular traffic.
I don’t remember the exact product for super thin application. But check the Henry product line.
Your local big box home store likely has similar.
I found this link : usa.sika.com/en/construction/floor-covering/flooring-levelers-patches.html
That goes from a feathered edge up to 1.5 inches. Hope that helps!
Thx for watching!
Hi I'm hoping you could help me🙏!!!! we painted the OSB subfloor with latex Zinsser odor blocker. Will the primer ahear to a painted floor or can I cover the floor with Luna. Will the primer and selfleving mix ahear to Luna. Thank you so much for any and all suggestions 👍
Hey Sharon,
I’m a little confused as to what the layers are. The leveler we used said it would stick to osb.
The leveler bag should indicate what it will stick to. When in doubt, I would call them to be sure.
As for zinzer - same thing - Some of those primers say “ will adhere to painted surface without sanding. Regular primer typically will not stick.
As for the Luna flooring, if it is flooring you are covering, I would rather pull it up. If it is your final floor, it should lay over everything if it is a floating floor.
Hope that helps,
Thx for watching.
Hi Dave, thank you for your responding.
Basically we tore up the old carpet to the OSB subfloor. We are going to be installing the LifeProof Vinal Plank Flooring. However the floor is so unlevel we need to mix a batch Of the floor leveling compound. But before I do I need to know if the primer that must go down before the leveling compound will ahear to the OBS subfloor that was painted with Zinsser odor water base paint primer. I'm afraid the primer needed for the self leveling compound won't ahear to the Zinsser water base odor blocker. Unfortunately the can of Zinsser does not give any information on this. I'm worried the primer needed for the self level won't ahear and possibly cause to lift and start to bow. This is the 1st time I have ever tried to tackle a DIY floor. Or would you suggest putting Luan 1/4 underlayment over the OSB. Then do the selfleving to the underlayment
Hey Sharon,
Best I can do is make an educated guess. That zinsser primer is meant to be covered by other paint. It is made to stick to, and have paint stick to it.
So my guess is - the primer for the leveler should stick to it. We put that Henry leveler primer down on old vinyl like tile and then leveler and it stuck amazingly well.
Plus, the leveler is a pretty strong concrete. I expected it would chip around the edges where we spread it more thin than recommended. Never did . And - you are laying vinyl plank over it - should be pretty stable.
You could do a small spot somewhere in a corner or out of the way - paint on the leveler primer- then some leveler. After it dries - see if you can pop it up.
Actually, we have been walking on the leveler for months now as that floor won’t be covered till we are close to done with the renovation. It is solid as when we poured the leveler.
Hope that helps.
I think that's a great ideal to try a small corner. I can't thank you enough for all you input. May God bless you & yours !!! Thank you so Much ❤️. I'll message you and let you know the results 👍
That sounds great. I’m curious now😃
How many bags you used
Hey KC ,
4or 5
Thx for watching!
Thanks for video. This self leveling product does not need a metal lath installed on the subfloor, it can just be poured over plywood (primed/sealed)?
I purchased one that does require the lath and I don’t see how to feather the edge if metal lath has to be used. Looks like a should have bought this product.
Hey C...,
No metal lathe is needed. Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
Metal lathe is usually (if even called for) for thicker cross profile sections from what I understand.
The technical data sheet for Henry 555 does actually specify lath for a wood substrate. It’s under the priming section. “PRIMING:
Prime the wood surface with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer undiluted and allow the primer to dry overnight (12 hrs. min., 24 hrs. max.) After priming with HENRY 554 LevelPro Underlayment Primer, install 3.2 or 3.4 galvanized, expanded diamond metal lath mesh (“plaster lath”) to the subfloor, stapling approximately
every 6 inches to prevent the mesh from “floating”. Overlap adjacent pieces of lath approximately 1”
I'm laying down 1/4 inch plywood over my bathroom subfloor. Will this work to level out the floor prior to screwing down the plywood?
Hey John,
1/4 inch is pretty thin by itself. With floor leveler… that’s what we did.
Thx for watching
Converting my garage into a ADU. My bathroom is 5x8 and i am installing a 32"x60" shower pan. I am just leveling the pan only and not the rest of the bathroom. What I did not realize when I put down a 2x4 at 33" across, that the self leveler would seep down below the 2x4. I spent over an hour just trying to keep it from seeping through, what a mess. I did not see anything on the internet about how to level just the shower pad and was completely unprepared to stop the leak. What is the official way to prevent this? The 2x4 was straight. In hindsight maybe i should of taped the 2x4 to the cement or set down the 2x4 and then caulked it and let it dry then do the pour? Your thoughts.
Hey Memo,
I think caulking is the recommended way to stop the leveler from seeping thru gaps. but tape should work if it’s strong/ sticky.
Sound like an interesting experience for sure! Thx for watching!
I've seen great stuff foam used along edges and to create dams on toilet and AC vent holes
@@bitchasz3shat3 You know my plumber recommended just putting some folded up napkins along the bottom and no fluid will soak through and it worked perfectly!! Try it.
Do you remember how many bags you used here?
Hey Dub,
Maybe 4-5???
Thx for watching!
I live in an old house. The first floor was not level so I had contractor rip up the porcelain tile and replace with vinyl flooring. He did not level the floor 100%. I suspect the reason he failed is because he did the job entirely on his own. Judging by your video, the job can be done in a much more controlled manner with two people rather than one.
Hey Michelee…,
It helps to have help for sure. Thx for watching!
The cabinet floor under my sink is bowed downward about an inch. Is this product to thing to use in order to level it prior to my putting down vinyl tile? The area is only about 2 X 3 feet.
Hey John,
First - get to the bottom of the cause. Sounds like a bad or long time leak. Can you get to the problem underneath? If not, I’d tear up the floor from above and see how bad the damage
is. We’ve seen water damage where the water leak literally caused the wood to disappear!!!
If you added floor leveler to such a problem all you get is a collapse.
Once all is fixed, you may not need floor leveler at all. Remember that leveler id concrete - it’s. heavy.
That’s why we used layers of thin plywood to take up extra space in the dip before adding leveler.
Hope that helps
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons Thx for your speedy and informed reply. The "bowed" condition was present under the cabinet when I bought the house 25 years ago. It has never moved, gotten worse or anything else. There is no leak, as the area is bone dry. I HAVE thought of plywood in the space, but it seems so minor, I thought of the self-leveling solution since the area is so small. I enjoyed your video presentation; quite thorough and educational!
hey John, Thx agian!
Whoa. I hope you guys did an asbestos abatement...
I see the process and in theory it does indeed level. The real question is, how durable is it in the long term, and will it break up when hardwood is nailed over it?
Hey Jack,
Ours has proved super durable! Hope it works out!
Thx for watching!
Would self leveling work over painted subfloors? Would the primer be effective or does it need to soak into the wood?
Hey Rachel,
Hmmmmm. Good question. You have to look up the specs on the exact primer you were buying. You can find the specs online. They will tell you what it will and will not adhere to. I’m thinking there should be one out there that you could use over a painted floor.
Thx for watching!
Can you put another coat of floor leveler over it once the first coat dries if the floor still needs leveling?
You can but you have to repRime the surface.
@@ChillyDippers why prime it when it's the same material .makes no sense . That's like painting a primer on a painted surface only to put another paint coat onotp .makes no sense and is a sheer waste of primer and time .
@@tristancraven3685 the levelers I have used say that - if you apply second coat within 12 hours, no primer needed. But if you wait a day or more, need to prime. I think the difference is that paint is very thin and doesn't shrink like portland cement based products, and the primer is needed to maintain the bond when the second layer also shrinks
Fantastic and thank you
I can smell that drill from here lol. Gotta bite the bullet and buy a legit mixer. I went through 2 drills before buying one.
Hey Dirty…,
True true! Thx for watching!
How many bags did u use??
Hey Phillip,
Not exactly sure- its been a while. - but Id guess 4.
I did a very poor job of trying to use self-leveling compound on a plywood subfloor. My mix was too thick and it needs to be removed and done correctly. I've tried some concrete remover spray to loosen it up a bit, with little success. Next was a grinder with a diamond disc. Besides the dust, it wasn't very productive. Any advice? Thanks.
Hey Brian,
We once tackled a 2 inch too thick pour of concrete by cutting groves about 1 inch a part with a diamond tipped circular saw blade. The hit it from the side with a hammer.
Hope that helps! Thx for watching!
Could you have picked a spookier basement? Was that Buffalo Bob’s hole I saw?
Hey boog…,
Yeh- 100+ yrs old! Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons He puts the lotion on the skin…
A couple of questions.
Priming between pours is not required?
For pours of a maximum 1.1/2 thickness, can rebar be added for strength?
Thank you
Hey Charles,
Don’t think you need to prime in between pours. I’d double check on the web site.
I know they talk about using metal lathe. Seems like rebar makes sense…if it’s thick. We did not use metal and it’s held up w/o cracks.
Thx for watching!
Get a cheap Harbor Freight Hammer Drill that plugs in for your mixing purposes.
Hey @jtompkins1277
Thx for the tip and for watching!
Lol I bought a Warrior brand corded chuck drill from Harbor Freight once. Thing started to spark and then caught on fire after just a couple uses mixing paint... I exclusively use Flex tool cordless now with a lifeline warranty. Haven't had a single problem with any of them and the battery life gets me through the jobs.
*anyone knows if this thing dries really fast or gives you enough time to work with it?*
Hey ale…,
It allows you a fair amount of time to work with it. Just mix in a small batch for first application if you are worried, but I don’t think you should be concerned.
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons oh great thank you for replying my comment
What’s the name of the product?
Hey Stroker…,
It’s “ Henry “ . It’s in the video / description.
Thx for watching’
If it's so self leveling why have to screte it? Could you make it just a tiny bit more soupy, and have it seek its own level like water?
Thnx
Hey Frank,
True. It’s all about preference. Our screeding was to “hurry it along” so to speak.
Can that be painted?
Hey Frank,
We haven’t. But it is a concrete mix - so it might be possible.
Thx for watching!
So, I wonder if the Henry 555 product will flex, with that wooden floor, and not break? Otherwise, that portland cement product will produce a lot of grit and dust and chunks under that floor, in a few years...
Hey Daily,
So far so good.
Thx for watching!
Its got plastic mixed in for flexibility
I'd be more worried about finding what caused that dip and want to remedy it rather than mask it.
How did you secure the plywood to a concrete floor? It's not like screwing into OSB wood floor.
Hey Dan,
We laid down plywood over existing wood floor.
The finished floor we plan to lay down over the concrete floor leveler will be engineered hardwood which is a “ floating floor “ -, a click lock flooring over a thin pad.
IF we were choosing a different hardwood floor, glue could be used. But that seems a bit of unnecessary work for our taste.
Hope that helps.
Thx for watching.
@@Housebarons do you know if the henrys hold up against a solid hardwood nail down?
no lathe? no fiberglass tape over plywood joints?
Hey Chuck,
No. Many many screws used. The pad an engineered floor over it.
It will work just fine!
Thx for watching!
Concrete over plywood will crack overtime
Only if the floor has flex in it. Ours does not.
Thx for watching!
You're going to burn that Dewalt up mixing with it
Why not use spike roller and let product do what it was meant to do ,(self level).
Hey cd…,
That’s an option. Thx for watching!
Will henry 549 work similar to this
Hey Bob,
Henry 549 looks to be a faster drying ( 15 min ) mix compared to what we used. Doing our whole floor, I would prefer to not be time constrained as jobs always take longer than I plan. The benefit is that the Hebert 549 goes to a feather edge whereas the 555 had down to an 1/8 inch edge limit. So pros and cons. It looks like Henry 549 bonds to many materials. Just double check that will work with what you are doing.
It has its pros and cons so it looks to be a personal judgement call.
Thx for watching!
@@Housebarons thanks! The area I'm doing is small about 4 x 6 1/4. I'm a DIYer, what exactly is feathering?
Hey Bob,
The feathered edge is the outside edge where the material is spread to the thickness of a feather. Some mixes can not be spread to a depth of less than an 1/8 inch ( like what we used) or else it would crack and flake. What you are using can have a paper thin edge which makes it nice for an unnoticeable transition from existing floor to the floor leveler.
Hope that makes sense.
It’s called self levelling for a reason 😏
Yeah right. I doubt that woyld level as well as these guys did it.
You still have to agitate it and move it into place
You still have to level and sand.
@@arthurcook1464 What the hell do you mean sand? Sand what? Sand.. my ass!
Lol, sand it? Do you prime it afterwards too?
That was pretty silly to mix the whole bag at one time. 😂😂
I level for a living. And will say, you have the compound way to thin. Just a note
Hey Molon,
Thx for the input and for watching!
Should not be called self levering if it requires so much hand work.
And horses are self breeding, but if you are dealing with a special racehorse lineage, you use your hands and an artificial vagina just to be extra certain that a pegasus doesn't come flying in when you're not looking and screw up that racehorse lineage. Ever seen a racehorse with wings? Me neither. So as long as this stuff is thin enough, it ought to self level, with or without manual intervention
How do you work with that annoying music playing?. I have to mute the video just to watch.
That 2x4 probably cost 20.00.
Hey Christophet,
Seriously ! Crazy prices these days!! Thx for watching
No yhanks
Good way to burn out an expensive drill!
You don't know how to use a screed. You have to make a back and forth motion as you move the "screed" along.
What a MESS !!
That is a bad way to level your floor ! What happened the second contractor to fix that floor ? 🤔😢👎
Didn't mix properly. Or this is crap product... If you have to scree it's not self leveling now is it.
Is there a real difference between screeting and agitating? It should be agitated shouldn't it?
This s a perfect example of how NOT to do a subfloor! OSB should NEVER be used as a subfloor!!
This place should have just been torn down and build new.
No self-leveler is made to go over OSB.
Why are you tipping the board instead of just laying it flat and making a sawing action back and forth?
Hey 5432…,
It worked fine for us.
Thx for watching!
Great except that the actual instructions don't say good to an 1/8th of an inch. What rehy want you to do is fill until an 1/8th of an inch ABOVE the highest point. At $40 a bag it gets expensive.
Hey Get,
Thx for watching!
You mentioned pouring to 1/8 inch, then using another product to feather the edge. What product do you use for thinner application/feather edge?
And thanks for the video, btw!
Hey Evan,
Thanks! Try Henry 549 - feather finish.
Thx for watching!