Fuel efficient reverse trike build (part-4)
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2021
- www.ElkinsDIY.com presents:
In this video I'm making the Steering Arms and Tie Rods. then connecting them to a Custom Rack and Pinion Steering set-up. Plus, the location of the Front Shocks. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I think you were born 130yrs to late looking at all your videos, you've a brilliant mind...
Great work as always Paul!!, your projects over the years have intrigued me. Can't wait to see this finished! Thanks again!
"Now, this is only temporary; unless of course it works..."
-Red Green
AMEN!!! I have built an awful lot of stuff that I thought was just temporary and it works so good that years later it is still the same so maybe it is permanent!
Your mechanical genius amazes me, as always!
Brilliant build, enjoying this series 👍
I really enjoyed your Video. Such a humble guy and no background stupid music. I have a motorcycle shop in LA and building a Reverse trike for myself with Yamaha FJR 1300.
So much to consider in the steering and suspension .Very unique approach .
so GREAT design. good content🍀🤗 THX greatings from jenni.swiss
Looking good Paul!!
Love watching these
Great Paul!!
Always super interesting.
Looks good to me Paul. I will make one suggestion thatbeing put a U-joint on the bottom of your steering shaft this will let you move the wheel forward more out of the way making getting in and out of the machine a bit easier.
Recently I messed up my knee so I've been looking at ways to make getting around the home and in and out of the vehicle easier because I know I'm not getting any younger.
Excellent!
Love it!
its looking sweet.. racers use holes to lighten components, there are a lot of places you could add holes in the steering arms, the angle iron on the rack even the rack and frame. you could just drill through one side of the frame tubes
I agree although if he drills holes in components outside the trike, like some of the steering components he might end up with more drag.
@@lucasvanhamburg4937 I've thought of that but for now I'm erring on safety. If I had the brains, money and patience to auto cad the design and put it in a stress test program I'd do it, but I'm old fashion and lazy.
Great project! Old fashioned maybe, keep adjusting by trial an error, but lazy. Never!
Awesome!!
good job
Nice 👌
This project looks like a kayack on wheels 🛶
If you put tape on the diamond plating where you cut with grinder it cuts down the noise
Enjoying the build. 👍
By lining up the steering arms with the center of the rear tire, shouldn't that correct for the turning radius differences between inside-ouside tires.
I think the steering pivot arm length should be the same as at the kingpins.
Without independent suspension, It may be best to have one connecting tie rod and then one to the rack and pinion. imho
Looking forward to the next installment and May the redos be avoided.
That thing is going to fly.
I hope so!
if you put suspension back intoo the front axle it might be simpler (steering geometricly speaking) bolt the steering mecanism to the crosmember that holds the wheels and make the steeringshaft so it can move up and down / in and out with the steering box mounted to the suspension beam
this prevents the wheels from toeing in or out during suspension travel or doing sudden direction changes when the trike slightly leaning over in turns and it shouldnt matter a lot where the steering linkages mount to the steering box as its a solid axle , it allso alows you to lift the steering and dashboard up and out of the way wish makes getting in and out eazier
they stay in the same plane from eachother not moving independently from eachother like with a double wishbone setup or with the steering box mounted to the frame with the axle moving around it
all that is important that the point of steering doesnt move about from the center of the steering (up and down not side to side )
either way you need to put some sort of linkage to the front suspension or a crossbrace between those suspension arms to keep it centered side to side
wat might work is a piece of pipe mounted to the frame under or realy close to the steering beam with a greased up pipe inside it sliding and a rose joint bolted to the center of the suspension , that should alow the axle to move up and down but not move side to side when theres a sideload on the front wheels (in corners)
Nice project as usual. Is it legal , on the road, to use car wheels and tires instead of bicycle tires?
👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🙏
Hi sir, what is the kingpin housing? Is it just a pure fit tube? Or with flange bushings and bearing?
Mantap 0m👍👍👍👍👍🙏
Adjustable Tie Rod ends were made to solve the problem you are dealing with. They are not hard to make and you can then adjust to the millimetre.
👍👍😎👍👍
Awesome progress.
Looks like you've got yourself a poor-mans Y-Link suspension.
That's pretty common for straight axles on older suv's like the Jeep Cherokee.
As you know, your caster angle changes with suspension travel. That (among other things) can lead to "death wobble" if you don't have good alignment. the off-road guys (myself included) would commonly band-aide death wobble with a fresh steering damper. I wouldn't suggest that, but if you end up wanting a steering damper: You may be able to get away with a quality (more than $200) linear motorcycle damper. The cheaper dampers are junk.
Thanks for that Josh. I'll eventually add a steering dampener, but for now I'm still on the fence about the front suspension set-up. I still might go to A-arms. More part but way less stress on parts and a much smoother ride.
@@paulwelkinsdiy I'm intrigued by the straight axle. I think it could work nicely and I like that it's different.
My biggest concern is just the lack of alignment adjustability and whether or not that would result in death wobble. You can't know for sure until you get it on the road and put in the miles, hitting bumps every which way. I'm watching these videos with great interest.
Looks good paul, how will you go with bump steer with the front axle stright and the shocks almost straight up and down?
Have a great day
Choppersrule1
Not sure yet. We'll see...
I will be watching mate it is very interesting how you are building this trike.
You might want to check out "Dennis Thomas" videos. He builds little one man replica race cars from scratch. He has built quite a few cars and might have some good info.
Hey I have been watching you for years. I'm currently building an electric trike not much different. I am having trouble getting my Ackerman correct. I was wondering if we could chat and see if you could help me do the math
An added gear box for reverse would have been nice. My last Goldwing used the electric starter for reverse. After climbing in and out of it a thousand times your going to be wishing you had reverse!
@@ddymnm That's about the cheapest reverse on the market but you got to climb out of the trike to use it so you might as well just push!
@@ddymnm Electric hubs are not designed to be driven and I think most of them are not designed to work at highway speeds. A friction drive on a tire would also require a way to engage and disengage making it not as practical as you might think.
Ackerman steering angle looks way off. If you have your kingpin angle set for zero scrub radius then your ackerman angle is based off the centered front tire contact point. Which is to say that the steering arms ackerman angle is identical to the tire contact point ackerman angle as it's all the same as far as that contact point is concerned. If you don't have your kingpin angle set for zero scrub radius then ... Well, you have a more fundamental problem. Being off at a single point of steering input doesn't really tell the story of the issues caused. As you aren't concerned with a set amount of steering input but instead the ratio through the sweep. Which will change dynamically if off.
Yes, well explained. I used a spread sheet program to help graph potential issues. Trigonometry skills increased.
Hope to improve the Ackerman on mine soon.
The kingpin is 3/4" inboard of the contact patch (was hoping 1") and 2-1/4" forward. I'm going with Ackerman steering geometry suggestions from Bob Stuart my engineer friend. We'll see how it pans out during test runs. I may also throw in the towel on this set-up and install an A-arms instead.
First comment
First question, why did you say that? Second question, why did someone click Like?
@@johnknight9150 I'm sorry, I got excited. This was the first time I had ever commented on a CZcams video.
First!