Bayite 6" x 1/2" Ferro Rod Review and Comparison
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2017
- I have been fumbling around with different ferro rods. Between the ones that I have being too small, or too hard, nothing has been quite right. That has let to lack of performance in starting fires efficiently.
So, I got my hands on a Bayite Ferro Rod and in this video I take a quick look at it and compare it to what I have had in the past.
www.bayite.com/shownews.asp?id...
For starters, whenever possible, hold the tip of the rod on the ground or a rock or pc of wood, anything like that, and you will get a better shower of sparks, that will be closer to your tinder, and it will light better. Also, there are basically 2 types of ferro rods, harder ones, and softer ones. The harder ones have a higher iron content, and shower sparks pretty good, but just sparks. The softer ones have lower iron and higher magnesium, and will throw gobs of metal, that will continue to burn. They are easier for use for people who hold the rod up and away from the tinder like you are doing in this video. The pros and cons are, the harder one will last you longer, the softer one is easier, but will wear out faster.
Hope that helps.
Definitely helpful...thanks!
I take those magnesium blocks, drill a bunch of holes in it, break off the striker, and keep the shavings and striker in a waterproof container. Just got a bayite a few weeks ago and love it. Good video man!
I had the exact same issue.i also purchased a bayite 6-1/2 ferro rod(its made a big difference)the softer and bigger the ferro rod,the better and easier it is to get good sparks.i would recommend a bayite to anyone having the same problems.
I usually pin my tinder down with the rod and go with a hard forceful, but slightly slower strike and it's much more effective and takes a lot less strikes than holding way off
Yeah, I could certainly do a better job than in that demo. I was kinda lax about it.
@@outerlimitless still a good videos though!!!
Excellent video. I thought that I was the only one with these type of issues. Practice makes the master, which I don’t do enough. Simple fluffed out dry cotton balls, makes it so much easier.
I've had one of these badboys in my Amazon wishlist for a whole year, but I've been weary on the quality, but it looks like a pretty good deal, thanks for making the vid it'll be my next ferro rod for sure!
I can say that I would definitely suggest it. My next vid will show it more in use, but I think it's a solid investment for reasonable money.
The grooves can be sanded out. If you scrape on a 45° angle or hold the ferro rod at 45° , you usually won't get the grooves and bumps. Hope this helps.
Yeah, I think the knife I was using had a spine that wasn't sharp enough...I used it quite a bit and sort of rounded out the spine...so it wasn't biting as hard into the ferro rod as I would have liked. Other blades spines are working better...but I have been able to work around the grooves just fine at this point. Thanks for watching!
Also if i might add to that.. Rotating the rod will help.
Ave never had a rod bump out like that x u need to use a better edge for striking
It may also help to have a sharper spine on the knife or striker. As I tend to beat the snot out of my knife, my spine can get dull. I use a dedicated striker attacked to the rod with blaze orange paracord. Those ridges are a bugger, but improving technique and tools can make a difference. Good video. Thank you for your time!
I appreciate your honesty, none of are experts, I doubt. LOL Good video. Never saw a ferro rod that big!
As long as we keep learning. I try to never stop. Try, learn, improve, repeat!
Better yet hold your knife down by your tinder and draw back on the ferrocirum rod and keep your knife still.. I find that way my knifes never hit the tinder.. idk works for me
Thats the way I do it also find it directs sparks better
Good review on just how different sparks fly from different Ferro rods.
Sometimes it's the first sparks
& sometimes I have been scraping for a while !
I will look into that brand for sure.
I struggle...as foolishly simple as it should be, sometimes it's difficult to get the technique right, or locate the perfect pocket of sparks. I find that the more time I spend in preparation the better my results...really processing wood down small enough and getting to the dry stuff. I'm often impatient....that's my own fault, not the rod!
A sharp spine on what ever you decide to use as a striker is key, I love my Bayite, have the same one reviewed, with the mora garberg, I can light kindling on the ground while standing up.
bilbobaggins8876 I got one from China 🇨🇳 and works really well,,but you are right,,SHARP SPINE..
Good vid. Wayne Walker makes some really good blades. Very impressed.
Thanks for sharing.
I love his work...you have one of his blades??
Nice video! I've got the same problem with grooves on one of my cheaper ferro rods. I suggest you to file or sand it down. It helps a lot. My all time favourite ferro rod is the lightmyfire army 2.0. The sparks aren't really large, but they are flying really controlled and ignite a fire with the second strike for most time.
Sweet...I'll look into it...light my fire seems to put out some pretty nice stuff...i've never had it, but watched a bunch of reviews. good advice!
Short ones work too. Having proper tinder prepared with progressively larger fuel and keeping the rod close to the tinder when igniting is going to give you better results.
I agree completely about preparing the tinder. That is make or break often times...more so than the quality of the ferro rod/scraper. If the rod and scraper can make a spark, the right tinder can take it.
That's NOT 6 INCHES.ITS A FOOT.(what I tell my wife don't blow it)
I was considering one of these ... thanks for the demo! I subscribed to your channel :)
Awesome...welcome aboard!!! Glad to have you!! Yeah, that ferro rod is definitely solid...you will be happy with it. I've had great luck with it and it has gotten better with time and a little wear in once the coating is gone. Also, my knife spine was a bit dull in that video...a really sharp spine, or dedicated striker works even better.
Thanks! I carry a #8 Opinel on my belt and it has a high-carbon blade as well as a nicely angled spine to strike my Ferro rods. Appreciate the tips! :)
Nice...how you like the Opinel blades? I have always wondered about them but never pulled the trigger to buy one.
Opinels have to be seen to be believed ... razor-sharp edge and very lightweight. Easily sharpened, as well. Because mine are "high carbon", the blade has a tendency to stain (unless meticulously kept polished, which I don't do). Very reasonably priced, in my opinion, for the value they deliver.
I was looking at the Bayite ferro rods on Amazon. They seem like they may be a softer rod which I understand to be a better kind to get. Thanks for the review 👍
I've had very good luck with mine...lasts basically forever and is perfect. If I could personally do it again, I would get 5 1/2"
I am no expert in ferrocerium rods but what I do know I consider worth knowing.
The ferrocerium rod formulas can be separated into two categories. Hard formulas and soft formulas.
Hard formulas throw hot sparks and last a long time (Think the igniter on many lighters), while soft ferrocerium can throw sparks but are designed to sling hot molten metal and unfortunately do not last as long as the hard counterpart.
Unfortunately Hard and soft ferrocerium rod formulas are often not disclosed, fortunately there is a rule of thumb (Fat rods are soft formulas while the skinny rods are hard formulas).
This is my personal opinion but I think soft ferrocerium rods are better served in the bush-craft scene (They can focus more heat into the target).
Appreciate your honesty of the learning process you got a sub from me
Thanks man, happy to have you aboard! I love to learn and starting is always the way to move forward!
You can smooth those grooves out with sandpaper
Lol
And wast the rod !
Looks like a winner there, good size for sure. Shame Amazon won't ship these outside the US though, if you know of anywhere else I can purchase it would be handy. Thanks again for the review....proving once again that size does matter!
Oh, bummer, really?? That is a total bummer...what do you do without Amazon?? Don't tell me you go to an actual Store!! Hahaha...dude, I seriously would die without Amazon.
Thank you for being honest.
I have practiced quite a bit with this rod since that video. I think my knife spine was a bit rounded out and combine that with uneven pressure I got bad waves in it. I've done a bit better since then paying closer attention to my technique. Thanks for watching!
@@outerlimitless, I've gotten the waves before too on multiple rods. That and "dishing". A "scoop" spot on the rod.
It's amusing how many people think using a ferro rod requires skill . Cool video and Thanks .
It's quite insane actually. For a basic discussion and overview video the ferro-experts have definitely spoken!
Do you use the spine of the knife? You said it lol but you gave me an idea.
Clean the grooves on your ferro rod up with a metal file. Just move slowly and turn it at an angle while you file the rod. That will remove the ridges and freshen up your ferro rod.
In your demonstration for comparison, I noted that you hold it up to far away from your target (tinder) to be effective with any of those rods. There should be very little gap between the rod and what you are trying to light, unless it's liquid fuel.
Yeah, I need a web redemption on that one.
Some of the issues you're having is technique. It works better if you strike farther back on the knife you have more controll and leverage. With any Ferro rod, steady pressure is key, so it also helps if you plant the tip of your rod into whatever tinder you have chosen and strike down from there with your knife blade. You get much better control and can control the pressure better because you have 2 anchor points instead of one. Just a suggestion. Hope this helps
This guy ought to watch a few videos.
Got your view, didn't I? You get stuck watching an ad? That was worth the $.000001. Thanks!
@@outerlimitless Not cool, dude. Bob G. was just intimating your technique could use a lot of improvement esp if your intent is to try to instruct others. Just saying . . .
@@bachfan7537 there's absolutely zero instruction anywhere in that video
@@outerlimitless Well you sure got that right!
@@bachfan7537 no luck needed... thanks
I have one and love it!!!!
I use that bayite ferro rod. Works better than any other rod I have.
Works great. Still my go to ferro rod!
I find a simple lightweight scraper effective, but I don't have experience with other heavier scrapers like a high speed steel scraper. This is our hobby, let's enjoy the journey.
Have you tried a Nathan4071 rod?
I have heard great things about them. Never tried one, but definitely would be something I would like!
Just got mine today seems like a decent ferro rod.
Have you used it yet? What do you think? I like mine...it's solid after all these years!
@@outerlimitless yeah throws great sparks! And alot to. Dont feel like i wasted my money lol
what is coating for that has 2 be scraped off anyway?
i squared up edge of my p38 can opener 6 inch rod off ebay , wax soaked jute fluffed up to easy lol
That sounds like a great striker!
hey man i have a question, I was wondering if you would be interested in selling or possibly tradeing your Tops BOB? just wondering im really interested in getting a Tops blade
let's discuss...I'll email you tonight
I have a project for it first...but likely yes...
outer limitless sounds good
A couple things if I may. I think most of the problem is the tinder is too far away and too wildly thrown sparks. Don't be afraid to get up in there and concentrate your efforts. Could try pin-and push or hold your knife right against where your tinder is and pull the rod. The little rods can work fine - look up Paul Kirtley's ferro rod video. It'll make your head 🤯. Life changing. As for bumps, keep more a 45° angle with your striker on the rod and see if that helps. Looks too square. They say it's uneven pressure too that causes them (I get em - still learning). Dan from Coalcracker Bushcraft has a good video on fixing it with a file. But that Kirtley method a makes none of that matter.
Only real legit critique is you seem to present the info as if from a place of expertise or as a teacher, but it ain't there yet with this, with all due respect.
I find holding the knife still and pulling Ferro rod work better. It allows you to get close to tinder and not hit it
Just bought the bayite, but with armhair like that, you should be able to start a fire anywhere. Btw, hairy arms are a sign of a successful person in some cultures.
The arm hair provides temperature control. Shade in the summer and insulation in the winter. I also have plenty of tinder to start my fire. If it means success I can't imagine what it takes to become rich...haha, I have more than enough already!
Grazie per il bel video. Mi può mandare il link del modello,è dove comprarlo? Grazie
Instead of pushing the knife towards the tinder bundle spraying the sparks everywhere, you should put the knife close to and above the tinder bundle, then pull the ferro rod back and away from the tinder bundle thus allowing all the sparks to be concentrated at the tinder bundle.
Good job
Get yourself a tungsten carbide sharpener, they make fantastic strikers & throw massive showers of sparks, the corona carbide sharpeners are like $5 online.
I have heard the carbide sharpeners work very well...something I might eventually try
Try holding the knife stationary over your tinder and pulling the ferro rod towards you, it will help get the sparks where you want them instead of them shooting all over. As always practice practice and then practice some more.
I have the same one great product
I still use mine all the time! It's been years now!
A really good ferro rod scraper is a corona carbide blade sharpener, you can find them in your local garden center
General rules: Check to make sure the spine of your knife is damn sharp 90 degree; make sure blade is HC steel;
Love the Bayiye, have several of those 6"... Put a sweet leather snake knot lanyard on them, fills the hand and works like a blow torch on tinder.
I think my spine was rounded out after considerable use...it needs to be squared off a bit more. other spines seem to shower a bit better at this point. I love the snake knot...such a solid knot technique!
Are these sturdy enough to double as a kuboton?
I'm not sure...would be an interesting idea, like if you sharpened one end to a point?
Coolvideo👍
Thanks! I have some more practice with this ferro rod and have better success with it now. Worth the investment for a large ferro rod...easier to handle and strike.
Corporal Connor says you don’t want to get sparks, you want to get molten metal out of the ferro rod.
6:46 till you get to see the Baymite rod..........
But the comparison starts right away! Hence the title!
The speed bumps are caused when your striker isn't a sharp 90.
Thanks for sharing
Stay healthy
Yeah...I think the spine on that knife was a bit rounded...started sharp at one point!
@@outerlimitless don't they all lol
You can sand the speed bumps down to salvage the rod. Belt sander makes quick work of it and a fun show. Lol
Thanks for sharing, I've enjoyed a few of your videos. New subscriber.
I know this was 4 years ago. Groves start to emerge when you slide a scraper at a slant and not rotate the ferro after a while and continue to scrap one side. You scrap the scraper back and not both the ferro and the scraper. We have human reaction to scrap ferro like we are widdling a wooden stick.
Hey! I just saw this video and I appreciate your honesty for saying that you're on a learning curve. So let me offer you some advices. It's not free tho! You'll owe me a coffee for that lol OK let's start..
HARD AND SOFT
There are two ,aim types of ferro rods. Hard and Soft. The hard ones will last longer and will have less ridges due to the scraping. But they will produce less sparks. Many are using the Light My Fire ones and what you need to know is that they have two main ones. The regular ones you'll find in most stores and the army one a bit more difficult to find. The army is the exact same but bigger. The softer ferro rod are because they contain more magnesium. Thus, producing more sparks. The down side is that they wear out much faster and ridges will appear almost 100% sure. The trick is to put lessees sure when striking.
THE TECHNIQUE
I've noticed that you hold the rod freely in the air. This causes the sparks to fly all over so you waste most of the "ignition". There are two ways to do it right. The first is to put your wrist holding the rod on your shoe to make it stand still then use the scraper (or back edge of your knife) to strike. The second way, the one I use, is to put your ferro rod directly in the center of what you want to lite and apply a pressure to make sure it stays put. You can either scrap downward or both ways for each techniques. It will depend on what you want to lite. For example one or two strikes at the most are needed to start a fire with dry birch bark. Single strikes will produce less ridges on a softer ferro rod.
If doing it right, you will start a fire easy with any ferro rod without the need to spend more money. The rod producing lots of sparkles are best for people with less skills. The harder rods are better on the long run because they last longer. It's also a question of weight. Every items adds to the weight you'll carry and you'll be amazed on how much weight you'll remove if you use the proper items. For example a small hard ferro rod weight probably 1/4 of the weight of a big smooth ferro rod. Also you can keep the pots' lids at home and use aluminum foil as a cover instead. This too will save weights. Do this for everything you can and you will not only start a fire easily but also save tons of weight. When looking back at it, I'm always wondering how I managed to carry all that weight on my back before making the little changes LOL
Some great info there. Yeah, I never shy away from admitting where I need improvement...everyone learns everyday about different things, but so many people won't admit what there not good at. By me admitting what I'm not good at, people, such as yourself, offer advice to help me improve and I get the best of other people's experience. I'll give your technique a try the next time I'm out there...thanks for writing!
You're absolutely right. Some people have too much of an ego sometimes. The reality is that we ALL can learn things. This is even more true when it comes to nature/wilderness/outdoors. The subjects and knowledge are infinite. Sometimes I'm in the forest, I look at the nature and I tell myself with a *sigh* "Boy, I wish I knew everything it is to know there". There are probably tons of medicine and healthy stuff that we don't know yet and it's right there in front of our eyes. The most important is to go out and try...... safely tho LOL. Cheers! (btw, I've subscribed).
I'm no expert but I've never had grooves or bumps in my ferro rods before. When I'm striking I hold my blade at roughly a 45° angle (or with most edge and little surface area touching the rod) and I use my index finger as a platform under the rod while i'm striking to make sure the rod doesn't bounce when I pull or push. When pulling or pushing I go just fast enough to generate the friction to get a spark, give it a Slow and Deliberate push or pull. you don't need to rip it across like a jet fighter, it just lowers accuracy and leads to bouncing or reduced surface contact in my opinion. for me I pull the rod with the knife on top of my nest/tinder if I need a lot of control. I push my knife spine if i need a wider area of sparks or if I have room (or i'm playing). one dumb trick/gimmick? i use is an old steel canning funnel with magnesium (mostly on the harder cheap blocks where you just get fine dust instead of nice wide slivers) + ferro sparks works pretty darn good to force the marriage and keep the sparks from bouncing off target once they hit the tinder. Anyway that is my 2 pennies. Thanks for the review! :)
I definitely struggled a bit in that video, but I found my knife spine was kinda rounded out. Although my technique wasn't great, the fire steel performs much better now that it doesn't have the coating on it which is kinda normal. But you described a solid technique that I will definitely try. Thanks for watching and great advice!
I like how you are still reading your comments and open to learning things from your viewers after all this time. This reply alone just earned you my sub.
Would you say Bayite is a hard or soft ferro
I think technically it's soft...mischmetal (softer) vs. ferro (harder)
I hope after three years your technique has gotten better but just a quick suggestion if not. Use the part of the spine closer to your handle. Better control. Just my experience. Take it for what it's worth. Hope you've improved.
It has improved, but that video was intended as a basic discussion...not so much technique driven. It was to show the Bayite against other options. But yes, I understand your point.
Get a Nathan4071 Sasquatch for a better mix for just a little more! ...or go grazy and get the 1" x 6" Beast!
I'll look into it. Thanks for the advice!
I have Nathan's Super Dragon. 6" long, 3/4" in diameter. It works great! About $30.00
How do I buy one from Nathan4071? Where can I go to get. I’m subscribed to his channel but don’t see any links to purchase.
@@jeremycrowe234 go to his Ebay store or contact him on CZcams
@@jeremycrowe234 if you're subscribed then just email him
Way tooo far away, the spark cools before it reaches the kindling...
Ya, it could be done better next time...
Use the spine of the knife that's closer to the handle. Not the point. It bounces because there's not enough downward pressure on the rod. Hope this helps.
Wow I thought I was the only one who had an issue with my ferro rod getting grooves after time. What causes this?
I think my technique isn't perfect...like for example even with solid pressure, if the knife spine isn't super sharp it will skip. Or uneven pressure might also cause a skip. I have found that with improved technique and also continuing to wear down the rod has fixed some of the grooving.
@@outerlimitless hey man thanks for the reply. I'm new to bushcraft but I've take a few pathfinder courses. We used the 5" x 1/2" rods though
@@whiteroseproject7207 I'm certainly not an expert and I learn constantly. I'd love to go to the pathfinder school... that would be amazing!
@@outerlimitless I mean if you're into it you should go theyve got a bunch of courses coming up this spring. All the instructors are really cool too.
What is a review of something a guy never used worth?
About 28,000 views. Works for me.
Firesteels.com came out with a half inch by 6 inch rod and their Ferro rods shower really good sparks they run about 40$
I've heard that their fire steels are pretty good. Seems pricey at $40, but it's a long term investment so no biggy!
outer limitless Yeah it's a bit pricey but fire is really important
Yea that’s fuckin stupid paying that price for that my bayite at the same size for $12 is excellent and never failed making a fire there’s nothing that could justify the extra money unless the firesteel brand comes with a blow job
Honestly, I get the 6"x1/2" bayite for abt $8 USD and it works amazingly IF you use a good scraper, n zero groovesor bumps IF you strike on a 45° angle, (Nathan the ferro rod maker taught me that). $40 is just not necessary, a bayite w a good scraper, the right tinder, the right kindling and you can get a fire going in any conditions. Bless you and have a joyful Holiday season.
@@bushcrfter7917 huge rip off, laughable really
Some of the problem with your technique is holding the ferro rod. As well as ferro rod density as you mentioned. With the shorter rods brace them against a stick. That way when you strike them you get even pressure throughout the strike. This also resolves the issue of aiming the Sparks.
That video was a struggle...I have certainly improved and have had more success...
I just wrote a little guide for starting a fire for you guys. I hope you'll like it :)
PREPARATION
The key to start a fire is like with everything else: a good preparation.
So let's talk about it....
The best natural fire starter is birch bark. Some think it's because it's very dry but it's not. In fact the birch bark is full of oil and that's what it makes it so good. To check this take an empty metallic can and put some birch bark in and lite it. Then take a metallic snare and put it over the flame just for few seconds and.. TADA! It'll be blackened within seconds. That's the fume from the oil. So get LOTS of birch bark if available. The best is to take the bark from a standing tree. The same apply to small and bigger branches as well as logs. A dead standing tree will always be drier than a fallen one. You can also use pine resin, fat wood, punk wood, etc...
After the birch bark comes the small dead branches from any resinous tree. Those makes excellent tinder. Then get bigger branches and logs that you will split into small pieces then finally full logs. So you should have:
- fire starter: birch bark, bird's nest, pine resin, fatwood, punk wood, etc.
- tinder: very small branches
- pencil size branches
- small pieces of splitted logs
- logs
And make sure you have tons of it. You already have? Good, then go get some more!!!
Now you need to clear the ground from any branches, leaves, etc that could ignite. Also dig a little into the ground to check if there's many roots. Did you knew that many wild forest fires starts because of fire spreading by the roots? Yup, this is very true! So be careful at all time! Once the ground clear, the best is to make a base from small logs. This is even more true during winter and cold or wet days. It helps a lot because the cold and dampness will make your fire harder to start.
Always make sure to have everything within hands reach!
The rest is easy. You use the birch bark or any other fire starter material you have and you're on your way to a nice and cozy fire :)
BTW, did you knew that the lint from your dryer at home makes an excellent tinder? If stuck into the woods with not birch or no other fire starter around you can use your blade to scrape over your pants to make some lint. There are also cotton ball soaked into petroleum gelly and many other household or commercial products.
I hope this will help :)
Cool...makes perfect sense...I like the part, "You already have? Good, then go get some more!!!"
I think if you used a simple hacksaw scraper your rod would stay smooth.
That's probably true...I've never really used a hacksaw scraper....is it effective?
I went to the link and it said can't be found
I'd suggest searching amazon. Links change all the time...tha's the downfall with putting the links in the description box.
put the ferro back by your thumb then strike or if you don't have a good spine get a dmt diamond stone the green one or the grit you want and sand the back of your knife to get rid of the ridges on the ferro rod use emery cloth and sand I always carry 100% cotton it catches sparks like a catchers mitt I want a fire find out what works best for you you gotta know how to use your rod boss that was funny I have several ferro rods and start a fire real easy with all of them hope this helps kenny
SHARP 90 DEGREE SPINE is key. A sharp spine like on a Mora Garberg
will turn a so so cheapie ferro into something different. Firesteel dot com has excellent softer rods with more magnesium and excellent ergos but they are expensive compared to bayite. Reallybigmonkey1 is the absoute master at breaking the Hows and Whys down and he uses bayite. Nathan 4071 sells excellent products on eBay as well. Get your magnesium blocks etc from GalliumSource on ebay.
I could go into this more but it's been a few years since you made this and there are people with far more wisdom than me😂
Yes, the video is a few years old, but the ferro rod is still going strong and has worked great. I have not had too many issues and the grooves have mostly worked themselves out with further use and a sharper spine.
The groves on the rod are operator error, not the rod hardness
Yes, that's half the story...I think the quality of the scraper impacts the grooves too...
Ferro rods should be made with a long taper so when they are being struck they wear evenly.
Hmmm...Interesting idea...but maybe if you wear it down then it is a taper...spin it around and then strike the tapered side?
If the ferry rads are very hard I made a striker out of an old sawzaw saw and it’s perfect because the tiny teeth just spray them suckers out
That's a cool idea...repurpose the blade and get the shower of sparks...cool thought! Thanks for watching!
A paracord bracelet is how you spot a real bushcrafter
Haha, I've had one on for years now...they're so grubby and faded!
The groves are a sign of poor technique and not using enough pressure. You need to strike the ferro rod right next to the handle and stabilize the rod on the top of your foot using the back of your hand or place the tip of the rod on the ground.
All the rods are working OK, its you that's not working correctly. Hold the rod near the tinder and keep the knife still, then pull the rod backwards. The spark will hit right where it should as apposed to you sending sparks every wear but the right place.Mke shore the knife as a nice flat sharp edge.
Firesteel.com very affordable I got the Gob Spark and I also have many other Ferro rods including the 6 in by 1/2 in made in China. They all work okay but the one from firesteel.com throws out so much spark it's almost scary
I'll have to get one from firesteel.com. I've heard that before. I also like that they have a bunch of sizes. Did you get the 1/2" diameter from them?
@@outerlimitless sorry it was the 5 inch Armageddon
@@crypto_pinto2660 such a waste of money, extremely overpriced, like 10x more expensive for zero performance difference
Get yourself a corona 5 inch carbide tool sharpener and it'll throw mondo Sparks for you and you just attach it to the rod with shock cord. Also it'll never dull out on a ferro rod.
I've heard people use those...I should try it. I have had a few people suggest that method. Thanks for writing!
@@outerlimitless no problem!!! It opens your options for knives too since you don't have to have a hard or sharp spine if a carbide scraper is attached to your ferro rod.
Had 2 of them used up 1 still have 1 left I use
Your knife does not seem to have a real sharp 90 degree spine.....and that is part of the reason why you are getting those grooves. The edge slips over the surface of the ferro rod. I have the same Bayite Ferro Rod and have been using it for over a year....no grooves have appeared on it so far.
If you find the right angle for the scraper those ridges should go away. Note the word should.
The magnesium combo is how I light my bbq lol
Nice! Gas bbq??
@@outerlimitless yup. Significantly more reliable than the spark ignition built in.
use the back of your leathernan saw works the best thing I found try it you won't use nothing else buddy
Now that is something that I'll definitely try...I bet that would work great.
thanks for watching!
I agree, the spine of the leatherman saw works like it was meant to be a striker. Blessed & Joyous Christmas
I can attest to this. I can scrape with less force and more control while keeping my ferro rod pressed on top of my tinder. I use a small Exotac rod and have no issues solely because of my Leatherman saw.
Comparison to get good fire. Thank to education me👍
I still use that ferro rod. Working quite well!
@nathan4071 ferro rod legend
Is that a CZcams channel?
You're moving the wrong hand.
1. Hold the rod stationary and pull the ferro rod. *Don't move the knife*
2. Keep it close to the tinder.
3. This way *the knife doesn't come forward* to control your spark location and you possibly hit your tinder.
Good review. Thank you.
This just covered a comparison of the different ferro rods...I wasn't sparking any tinder, rather demonstrating the spark pattern and hardness of the different rods.
@@outerlimitless
Oh. Thank you.
I just ordered a 5" x 1/2" the other day but I haven't tried it yet.
@@jenky1044 I think you'll be happy with it. St this point, I probably would get the 5" as well.
Bought one awhile back but haven't had the chance to use it yet
I've used mine quite a bit since this video...works well, I've improved my technique to get better results. A great ferro rod for the money!
Pull the rod leave knife in same spot
Hold your knife at an angle when striking the ferro rod.
Yeah, I typically do. That edge was starting to round out on me a bit.
Press hard and go a little bit slower and practice with cotton balls dipped with baseline and you’ll be set
Say heah, I find using down to the tip and start lower than higher you won't waist your ferro rod's. I must have a softer one. I bought my 6" from Eugeme on CZcams he makes the ace holster's, Infact I also bought a very well made leather holster for my ferro rod. I also have a Grizzly Magnisium Rod/Ferro Rod Combo. Grizzly guarantees theirs for life.,,.
Paul'ie 4X I do the exact same thing with my rods and my magnesium block and ferro rod combo. People are wasting so much of their ferro rod's. More tinder or magnesium =less striking! GRIZZLYs are lifetime guaranteed I have to get me one
For those grooves you need to take soma sandpaper and rub it of .....
yeah, I think i was applying uneven pressure...I have been doing better with it since then and it makes a big difference. Thanks for watching!
Don't use the blade. You should use the back of the knife for the 90 degree angles. Good luck and have a nice day
Thanks for watching!
great job man! you should make a handle for it!
Haha, I'll use an old schrade handle!!!
LOL
I hope you have gotten yourself a Nathan4071 ferro rod, if not you should get one. He has the best on the market and his ferro rods are demanded by folk all over the world, anything else is garbage and you are wasting your money !!!
I have not yet gotten one, but I have had a ton of people recommend one to me. That is quickly landing on my short list of gear to get my hands on. I'll definitely be looking into it. It will make for an awesome comparison video too! Thanks for watching!
I use a flat bastard file....ame basic solution
Move the rod not the knife spline. Safer brother...
Technique Technique Technique....
Your Ferro Rod should be not moving around you should have it directly on the ground next to your Tinder and then you strike down and with some good pressure on the Ferro rod you have to have control shooting the Sparks directly into your Tinder what you're doing is wasting a lot of your Sparks and they're cooling down before they hit the Tinder
Yeah, I had some tough technique on that one. I've adjusted my ways since then...haha...always a learning process!
Your ruining your knife. Your supposed to use the back of the blade. We file the spine flat and square so it has a square corner edge.
66cujo59
That was the back of the blade...
Knowlage that they knew 6:05 dont correct someone who's right
Place the rod. Strike it with the steel. So many pull the rod and push the steel. Aim the spark to the tender.
Yeah, I hear ya...I think it depends on the situation...or whatever...