I did a separate video to show you how to reset the service interval and warning indicator on your display on your Gen 3 Suzuki Hayabusa (model years 2022 to present). czcams.com/video/RMJUQvUjfxA/video.html
Also, get a rubber tip air blower, and with the old oil filter still "on" and drain plug "out", blow compressed air thru the oil cooler inlet on the engine case side. This gets all the dirty oil out of your cooler. There is about a third to half a quart that hides in there. Cuz if you dont drain it out, your just mixing new oil with dirty oil and basically defeating the purpose of an oil change.
Use aluminum foil below oil filter to catch the oil and drain it into your tub below. If you shape the aluminum foil correctly you will have Zero oil on your exhaust pipes or headers.
as soon as you feel the crush washer crush, you're good. the only time I've broken a fastener is with a torque wrench. so I don't use them. only exception is if it's something that requires repetition, like a lot of bolts that need to be the same spec around a cover or something like that, which is rare.
Good idea getting a filler tight like Suzuki says last thing you want to do is blow an oil filter o-ring over a hundred miles an hour and oil up the back tire
Only pre-fill the filter if it's an application where the opening of the filter stays at the top while you're screwing it on. For filters like yours or on my Harley that mount horizontally or even the few odd balls that mount upside down like an old slant 6 I never bothered to try to fill the filter.
Thanks for your feedback on that. It makes sense. Also, if it was important to prefill such filters I would think that the owners manual would mention it.
Thank you, I appreciate your comment! This is the 1st how to video I have done that actually worked. I had previous attempts where I was doing other types of motorcycle maintenance or repair and I either got too busy to talk or I forgot to video key points of the repair or maintenance procedure.
Good vid. Now, how to get rid of that darn service indicator. Did my first service close to 600 but before the indicator came on. Bike was garaged for most of winter, took it out for a bit on a nice day, then noticed the service indicator at about 700 miles.
Thank you. I totally forgot about that service indicator. I will do a short video showing that as Drew with Moore Mafia showed me how to do the reset on my 2020 Katana using a paper clip and it should be the same procedure with the Busa.
I didn't get the Suzuki filter wrench but their dealers have them. I would suggest getting the oil, filter and crush washer from the dealet and size they wrench to the filter while you are there.
I love hayabusa’s but dont understand the removing bodywork thing anymore, my ZX14R & ninja 1000sx oil filters are easily accessible with no bodywork removal.
I agree with you. I think manufactures are making the performance of even routine maintenance like this difficult so as to encorage dealer-based service.
Do you find the power predictable on the Hayabusa? I'd love to get one myself but I imagine I would have to put it on one of the lower modes like rain mode until I got used to it.
I find the that the power is very linear. I think what you suggest about using lower power modes to start is prudent and I am still riding it in B mode.
I got a gen3 and I love it, I am 5'8 187lbs, ride mainly in mode B, and I can say it comparable to a 600 or 750. I use made A on the highway and it's still very manageable
Kindest beast you’ll ever ride. Smooth, yet powerful. I own a brand new 2023. Rocket ship of a bike. Catalytic converter foot area gets extremely hot and uncomfortable is the only downfall.
I bought one 3 weeks ago. This thing is a beast! I kept it in C mode for first 150 miles and got used to stop & go , turning while taking off, that's the hard thing...she loves the interstate. I did move to B mode to get more used to the power and it seems linear and as expected, but it is touchy to me, and will be long while before I get up to A mode which is supposedly pretty twitchy from what the videos say. Get one !
The dealer never said anything about the brakes. What is the issue? I would consider soft bags for long trips as it is better than wearing a backpack for sure. I would just like to get by with a tail/tank combo that you mentioned.
@@cycletron At times after sitting, the front brake lever will go all the way to the grip until you pump the brakes back up. They are changing out the Master Cylinder and Lever assembly. They sent out the letters.
Aren't you forced to change the oil at a dealer? Pretty sure you lose the warranty if you do it yourself or am I wrong? Or maybe it's just different for EU markets, this is my first bike ever with November delivery and I try to learn all I can about it, I've worked on all my cars beforehand so I don't really need the help of a dealership for anything but it just seems strange to me. Thought you were supposed to do dealer only service on the bike until the warranty runs out or it voids it. Also how exactly do you run in/brake in the bike? From what I've read on the forums people were saying 500 miles no higher than 5k rpm oil change, then 500 more no higher than 8k rpm and trying to find the point where vibrations are generated and keep it at that RPM
They can't void the warranty if you do your own maintenance work, at least in the U.S.. I don't know about Europe but I doubt it would be any different. With modern bikes, and normal street use, I see no reason why you would have to adhere to any break-in limitations. I would ride is as you would normally plan to ride it right from the beginning. I haven't bothered with such things on any of my bikes and it has been no issue.
They told me at the dealership I could change my own as long as I used quality and right type of oil. I bought just 3 weeks ago, love it. It was my first bike in MANY years, and much bigger...put in C mode and get used to it, then move to B (where I am) this will keep traction control and power down until you get used to it. It's not really twitchy... but it is a lot of HP and a sport bike. I practiced a lot in neighborhoods stop & go , left and right turn takeoffs but she loves the interstate and drives herself at 70mph with cruise control on. Read the same on forums about break-in, the dealership actually said "just drive it, but don't bounce it off the limiter. " That's just not me though, and you can really have lot of fun cruzin' at up to 6K honestly. Be careful and grats on your new Hayabusa too !
You should have never had it leaning on its kickstand while draining the oil, especially sloped driveway... You probably had at least a half a quart or more of dirty oil that did not drain out... If you were to have that bike level and draining, you would have used and your oil would have been perfectly between the two lines on the window/sightmark
I did a separate video to show you how to reset the service interval and warning indicator on your display on your Gen 3 Suzuki Hayabusa (model years 2022 to present).
czcams.com/video/RMJUQvUjfxA/video.html
Also, get a rubber tip air blower, and with the old oil filter still "on" and drain plug "out", blow compressed air thru the oil cooler inlet on the engine case side. This gets all the dirty oil out of your cooler. There is about a third to half a quart that hides in there. Cuz if you dont drain it out, your just mixing new oil with dirty oil and basically defeating the purpose of an oil change.
Great tip. Thank you!
Use aluminum foil below oil filter to catch the oil and drain it into your tub below.
If you shape the aluminum foil correctly you will have Zero oil on your exhaust pipes or headers.
Great tip, thank you!
Tight by hand with the filter......that's all you need.
not trying to be an ahole or anything, but the service manual says 2 turns. this is not a car engine, it vibrates and runs way up higher in the rpms.
as soon as you feel the crush washer crush, you're good.
the only time I've broken a fastener is with a torque wrench. so I don't use them. only exception is if it's something that requires repetition, like a lot of bolts that need to be the same spec around a cover or something like that, which is rare.
Great point!
Great video, can you do one on other maintenance, like spark plugs, coolant change, air filter, and chain maintenance. Thanks
Thanks. Yes I could do that when the time comes on my bike.
Good idea getting a filler tight like Suzuki says last thing you want to do is blow an oil filter o-ring over a hundred miles an hour and oil up the back tire
I agree with you!
Only pre-fill the filter if it's an application where the opening of the filter stays at the top while you're screwing it on. For filters like yours or on my Harley that mount horizontally or even the few odd balls that mount upside down like an old slant 6 I never bothered to try to fill the filter.
Thanks for your feedback on that. It makes sense. Also, if it was important to prefill such filters I would think that the owners manual would mention it.
Nice job. Thanks for doing this video. Wrenching, talking and doing the video thing isn’t easy.
Thank you, I appreciate your comment! This is the 1st how to video I have done that actually worked. I had previous attempts where I was doing other types of motorcycle maintenance or repair and I either got too busy to talk or I forgot to video key points of the repair or maintenance procedure.
Good vid. Now, how to get rid of that darn service indicator. Did my first service close to 600 but before the indicator came on. Bike was garaged for most of winter, took it out for a bit on a nice day, then noticed the service indicator at about 700 miles.
Thank you. I totally forgot about that service indicator. I will do a short video showing that as Drew with Moore Mafia showed me how to do the reset on my 2020 Katana using a paper clip and it should be the same procedure with the Busa.
@@cycletron excellent! Will keep my eye out for it.
Do you have a part number for the crush washer and filter wrench? Thanks
I didn't get the Suzuki filter wrench but their dealers have them. I would suggest getting the oil, filter and crush washer from the dealet and size they wrench to the filter while you are there.
@@cycletron good idea. I'll have to go back to get the crush washer. I didn't know about that till now. Thanks brother 🙏
Revzilla
Heh, you can use your old harley funnel to keep the oil from the filter hole from draining all over everything.
Good point! I need to try something else as that didn't go well!
I love hayabusa’s but dont understand the removing bodywork thing anymore, my ZX14R & ninja 1000sx oil filters are easily accessible with no bodywork removal.
I agree with you. I think manufactures are making the performance of even routine maintenance like this difficult so as to encorage dealer-based service.
Do you find the power predictable on the Hayabusa? I'd love to get one myself but I imagine I would have to put it on one of the lower modes like rain mode until I got used to it.
I find the that the power is very linear. I think what you suggest about using lower power modes to start is prudent and I am still riding it in B mode.
Gen 3 drives itself lol. Get one it’s the easiest (hayabusa) to ride so far
I got a gen3 and I love it, I am 5'8 187lbs, ride mainly in mode B, and I can say it comparable to a 600 or 750. I use made A on the highway and it's still very manageable
Kindest beast you’ll ever ride. Smooth, yet powerful. I own a brand new 2023. Rocket ship of a bike. Catalytic converter foot area gets extremely hot and uncomfortable is the only downfall.
I bought one 3 weeks ago. This thing is a beast! I kept it in C mode for first 150 miles and got used to stop & go , turning while taking off, that's the hard thing...she loves the interstate. I did move to B mode to get more used to the power and it seems linear and as expected, but it is touchy to me, and will be long while before I get up to A mode which is supposedly pretty twitchy from what the videos say.
Get one !
Was your busa in the recall for the front brakes?
Also, I take it that you don't like the soft saddlebags for traveling?
The dealer never said anything about the brakes. What is the issue?
I would consider soft bags for long trips as it is better than wearing a backpack for sure. I would just like to get by with a tail/tank combo that you mentioned.
@@cycletron At times after sitting, the front brake lever will go all the way to the grip until you pump the brakes back up. They are changing out the Master Cylinder and Lever assembly. They sent out the letters.
@@SmittyAZ Thanks Ray. I have not received that letter. I will call the dealer as a precaution.
@@cycletron I received a Safety Recall Notice in the mail on mine. Apparently it is with the front brake master cylinder.
@@baymoto553 Thank you. I will call my dealer to see if my bike is effected.
Aren't you forced to change the oil at a dealer? Pretty sure you lose the warranty if you do it yourself or am I wrong? Or maybe it's just different for EU markets, this is my first bike ever with November delivery and I try to learn all I can about it, I've worked on all my cars beforehand so I don't really need the help of a dealership for anything but it just seems strange to me. Thought you were supposed to do dealer only service on the bike until the warranty runs out or it voids it. Also how exactly do you run in/brake in the bike? From what I've read on the forums people were saying 500 miles no higher than 5k rpm oil change, then 500 more no higher than 8k rpm and trying to find the point where vibrations are generated and keep it at that RPM
They can't void the warranty if you do your own maintenance work, at least in the U.S.. I don't know about Europe but I doubt it would be any different.
With modern bikes, and normal street use, I see no reason why you would have to adhere to any break-in limitations. I would ride is as you would normally plan to ride it right from the beginning. I haven't bothered with such things on any of my bikes and it has been no issue.
They told me at the dealership I could change my own as long as I used quality and right type of oil. I bought just 3 weeks ago, love it. It was my first bike in MANY years, and much bigger...put in C mode and get used to it, then move to B (where I am) this will keep traction control and power down until you get used to it. It's not really twitchy... but it is a lot of HP and a sport bike. I practiced a lot in neighborhoods stop & go , left and right turn takeoffs but she loves the interstate and drives herself at 70mph with cruise control on. Read the same on forums about break-in, the dealership actually said "just drive it, but don't bounce it off the limiter. " That's just not me though, and you can really have lot of fun cruzin' at up to 6K honestly.
Be careful and grats on your new Hayabusa too !
You should have never had it leaning on its kickstand while draining the oil, especially sloped driveway... You probably had at least a half a quart or more of dirty oil that did not drain out... If you were to have that bike level and draining, you would have used and your oil would have been perfectly between the two lines on the window/sightmark
Good point. Thanks.