Why is the Heat Pump Freezing up?
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- How to test a defrost thermostat?
• How to test a defrost ...
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Also if you want to make defrost sensor get cold faster disconnect outdoor fan.
Thats what I do get that defrost t stat cold
Great video. Short and to the point.
my girl tells me this all the time!🥴
lol 😆 😂
thank you 😊
Remember suction pressure to temperature.temperture should be 15-30 degrees below outdoor ambient
my maaan!!!! thx again! i learned this test from you months ago so i was answering your questions as you asked them…and yes gottem all right! ha
Thank you great video
And Third! If your R terminal, “24v” gets disconnected or if there is a safety switch cutting off the R terminal for outside, the heat pump won’t do the defrost cycle.
In the defrost I didn’t notice the outdoor fan shut off if in question jump the defrost sensor and hit the test pins it should stay in defrost until the jumper is removed
Good info Tad ... Thx
Nice, and to the point. And if it's an older unit with corrosion on the indoor coil, the slight vibrations caused a light leak....Or someone went in there with a knife or screwdriver to try to knock off some grunge 😂. Thanks👍
Awesome video, brother. Very educational 🤟💯🌎
Much appreciated
When you forced defrost shouldn’t the ODF of stoped as well. Either defrost relay is stuck closed or it’s been wired around the defrost control. Fan should not be running in DF.
I did not short the test pins long enough. I also did not have the defrost thermostat closed
System is 15 years old time fir new.
Never try to make pressure meet heating chart it is only a guide line.
Only way to properly change is in cool mode,and verify indoor metering device.
Just because it says txv outside doesn't mean it is inside.
Best rule of thumb fir r22 in heat mode is low side pressure should be within 15 of outdoor temp.(is 40 degrees 40 psi + or -)
Only for checking but etc d well.
they’ve been chasing a leak on my minisplit for over a year now, sadly the two different companies have resorted to the parts cannon method.
they said they now want to change ALL the lines to the 5 zones, $6000 in labor was the cheapest quote, only the parts are under warranty.
the system looses $870 in 410a every 3 weeks. Im getting the feeling the companies in my location know less about hvac than my postal carrier
that is a crazy price
if it only last 3 weeks its probably in the indoor coil
That loss rate should be easy to find and unlikely to be in the lines unless they are rubbing somewhere and worn though. Are you sure it's two different companies or two different adverts?
Thanks! Great concise video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
So where was the leak?
I found oil residue in the evaporator coil pan
I'm pretty sure the indoor coil is the problem
Great job tad always like your videos
1980s Ernest P. Worell said " Heat pump smeet pump " .
Great video! Tad💪🏽
Glad you liked it!!
That noise would drive me crazy.
Its time to change R22 unit.
Hey quick question guys... if the heat strip are on will that affect my high side / subcool readings on my guages? How would you turn them off just untwist or loose the white wire on the defrost board?
Good stuff brother
Right on
Great video!!
Thanks!
@@TaddyDigest which freon is that?Thanks
When testing subcooling on a heatpump should you check liquid line temperature at the outdoor unit or inside at airhandler? I wonder if the temp would drop much. Thanks for the videos
Inside, on this method! You would focus more on the approach method, return dry bulb minus liquid line temp. Liquid line temp should always be higher than return air.
What delta t do you like to see on straight heat pump, sat/rat?
Hey man! I got ya! Temperature difference usually depends on the amount of humidity in the home. (Wet-Bulb). With the Wet-bulb temperature and the dry bulb temperature you can then look at a chart and determine what the proper Delta T should be. In heating mode though it is usually 25-35 or more. For cooling here in Arizona we like to see about 18-22.
What refrigerant did you add to the system?
That’s what I was thinking to.Never seen a blue R-22 jug.
That's good 'ol 422B baby
Nice
Hey man nice video I love the content I just have a couple tips! When testing SH in heating mode that suction line is no longer the suction line so that temperature your getting is the Discharge line temp. To get true Superheat in heating mode I usually open the top and clamp the big pipe on the inlet of the outdoor unit. Time consuming but worth it to get True SH so you are not overcharging! Love the content keep it up
Good tip
Yes sir thank you for watching I really appreciate you.
I would replace that old Fan Motor on that old POS🤣
Super brot
Why are you mixing refrigerants? You just contaminated that system.
Did you see me mix refrigerants
He never mixed refrigerants
@@TaddyDigestso you just have a blue tank out for no reason? Plus you have it hooked up to gauges and clearly are charging with it, if the system has been converted before hand just say that but you do say this is an r22 unit
@@AJ-ox8xywhat refrigerant is that blue tank he is using?
This unit was converted over to 422b
I'm adding the refrigerant that is already inside the equipment.
Got a cell # I can pick your brain?
Yeah level four membership will get you phone number access