Lol. You’re gonna love when that leaks or takes out your heater core. It’s a restriction for a reason. And it’s a quick connect so it takes 3 seconds to disconnect it while pulling the intake off.
Well done, one of your best. I don't know what GM was thinking, mixing aluminum and steel fittings in the presence of continuous water. Of course it was a long term disaster, done to make the task for assembly robots very slightly easier.
Thanks for the update Jimmy! I remember replacing those POS plastic clips on my '97 Suburban. My '99 has them as well and since I don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere when they fail, I'm going to look into doing this to my 7.4!
Nice update. Manufacturers have been trying to do away with clamps and rubber hoses because it takes time to fit them correctly the factory. Also hoses need to be routed correctly so they do not rub or leak. I remember in the old days having to fix up problems with hoses on new cars.
The best reason to use a restriction in the heater hose is to protect the heater core. On engines that can rev quickly, they can generate pressure surges that can over stress the heater core.
It is a water restrictor limiting the amount of water for cooling. Barbed fitting works great also. Not that your is a diesel but Leroy Diesel sells an aftermarket brass connector with the restrictor that he makes.
It's about time! Told ya those things are nothing but trouble and heart ache. Lol! Mine has been swapped for 15yrs , zero issues. You'll be glad it's gone.
@@leewon4572 I've never had any trouble with it. Don't have to worry about it leaking either. My fitting was leaking and snapped off in my intake way back then. I was trying to get the broke piece out and damaged the intake unfortunately, so I replaced intake and put in the barb fitting. I wish I had known and could have changed it prior to that to the issue. That's why I try to warn others. I still drive my 98 everyday, even though I got a newer truck. Thanks for your service as well 👍
I did the exact same thing on my 1998 GMC Suburban a few years ago. mine was in the front next to the thermostat housing. It was also much less expensive to do it like you did, rather than replace the crappy quick connect.
Just came across this video (which is super helpful)! Has anyone that has replaced this and instead of using the cheap aftermarket crap went with the brass fitting had any issues with the flow through the heater core?. That is my biggest concern. Jimmy said he would update if it leaked again and the no comment on his part would lead e to believe everything is still running good and the added flow hasn't damaged anything. Would love to hear peoples experiences that have done this. Great video along with the one previously on the removal of the original OEM one.
I had a 1992 gmc truck that had the same factory fitting go bad.... I agree the quick disconnect is flimsy, I have a 1994 gmc now , that I want to do this conversion to. This video is a great self help tip. I would hate to be stuck on the highway in a storm , trying to fix the old set up, lol. 😂
the purpose for the quick connect from the factory was: 1. faster vehicle assembly at the factory 2. more profit for manufacture due to time saved. 3. cheaper vehicle for the customer due to time saved. that quick disconnect made sense at the time and only needed to last as long as the vehicle warranty.
I had the same exact situation with a 1998 Chevy 3.1 Malibu. They had a lot of plastic fittings that one day your driving and you then find your engine overheating because that fitting snapped off. Got rid of the quick disconnect with a brass fitting and hose.🎉
That is an extremely common problem with the tbi motors. The fitting is made from a low alloy and crumbles like you said. I'm actually surprised that you chose to eliminate that joint.. since I feel you are very hesitant to change anything from the factory. It should give you years of service life like that now.
Thanks for sharing your videos. Next time if needed...all brass threaded inserted/threaded into your manifold/water pump/water jacket taps, use copper anti-seize thread sealant. Great, how to clear step by video!
You can actually get the part for a 96+ blazer, which has the proper flow restriction to replace that instead of pipe fittings. Did it to my truck about 10 years ago, still holding up. Not sure if you can buy them new anymore, but I'm sure there are loads of them in dead blazers at the junk yards.
Yea if that's a fixed orifice for flow control then I'd wager its best to have that in place as too fast of flow will not transfer the qty of heat into the fluid going to the return side of the coolant loop.
Nice work. I have regularly used barbed fittings but had never thought about the pet fittings- nice call. Do you have a link to the video about removing the broken piece?
I did something like that on a 1968 Oldsmobile back in the middle 70’s. It had a plastic heater control valve from the factory. The plastic valve had a restriction in it. My replacement fitting didn’t. Every time I accelerated around the corner from a stop I could hear water rushing through the heater core because water was rushing through the core too fast. I did it as a temporary fix but drove the car 6 years like that. Plastic heater valve, $ 18.00. Brass fitting $ 2.00.
Hi jimmy First of all ptf tape comes in 2 types, there is liquid and there is gas ptf tape. Plummers tape is the liquid ptf tape veriant. Gas engineer tape is the gas ptf tape. Liquid ptf tape for water, coolent and suchlike that do not use tapered fittings. Gas ptf tape for all gas applications that do not use tapered fittings. Something else brass and aluminium do not form electrolysis, corrode, they are none ferrous metals so are good with each other. Any metal with iron in it as a base element will cause electrolysis as iron reacts with water. The quick connection are for easy disconnection and reconnection in manufacturing and for the dealerships to charge more for labour as if they have to fit pipes the old way with barb connectors and clamps, plus to have the owner change the hoses more frequently than needed. Good work on the replacement and it is far better flow of the coolent with no restrictions.
Alum. and brass = electrolysis? I suspect the orifice size is to reduce flow from the engine back to radiator via heater core, thereby decreasing the engine warm up time which enhances ring life and block dimension stabilization.
That’s the first thing I do to my 5.7 vortec motors in my trucks 👍except I use a threaded nipple and a street 90 then hose clamp the heater hose to the 90. Never have to mess with it again until the heater hose busts because you installed headers and it was too close to them 😅
Those fittings have to be pretty old. That was a carburetor I saw, right ❓even brass wears out. I’ve used them and replaced them because the wall got so thin they crack. Nice solution. I really enjoy your video, lots of common sense
This video came out at the PERFECT time! I was putting seadoo in my suburban and noticed a leak coming from this exact location!! Well i know for sure what im doing now!
The brass nipple is likely 7/8" Not 23mm. I noticed that heater hose QD when you did the intake gasket video. It does seem to cute by half. When you replace those nipples, always use brass, not steel. Brass is more noble than iron/steel, it won't corrode in that application. Steel will always end up corroded no matter how nice the zinc plating looks. The zinc is scraped right of the threads on 1st install. If all you can find is steel, install it with copper anti-seize. Also, do not over torque them, they are tapered pipe threads. That's a big reason why you shouldn't be using 1/2" drive ratchet/sockets up there, they will help you over torque. Save the 1/2" drive stuff for chassis work. 3/8"drive up there is all you need, and it is easier to work with in confined spaces.
I've been there. The threads on those intake manifolds will be half worn out/corroded. You need to clean them up AND use silicone sealant. Torquing a brass fitting in alone will likely not seal it. I put steel Dorman 56237 fittings on my last two with silicone sealant and they worked great.
@@nicholassmerk I wouldn't be silicone there. Copper anti-seize on steel nipples. The nipples are tapered, you might use Teflon tape on a new install but not silicone. The copper anti-seize will prevent the nipple from corroding in place. Silicone will not.
@@x-man5056 I understand what you are trying to say, buy disagree. For, example, head bolts are installed with sealant, most typically an ultra rtv. There are other less noble metals inside an engine to be converned about than a single heater hose nipple.
That restriction is there to provide the correct cooling to the cylinder head You won't notice any problem until the head gasket fails (and the head is likely warped) Just place a restriction in your hose and poof good fix
I don't know if that went through or not but just want to see if that worked and because I want to do the same thing I appreciate this video it helped me out tremendously cuz I don't want to deal with that piece of crap setting so I think you're right on the money so it's shout out I subscribed and I'll pass it along😊 U.S. MARINE VETERAN
You can tell it's a real problem when Lisle makes a tool that can sometimes get the NPT fitting out of the manifold. I changed my grandmother's manifold fitting years ago. I got the Lisle tool and it didn't work and had to pull the intake.
There is a reason why most plumbing fittings are brass. It is self lubricating semi soft metal that wants to move apart. I removed a 40 year old dishwasher that was installed with brass pipe and fittings. It all came apart like new pipe.
you know what else is a "quick connect"? a fkn hose clamp!! been enjoying your videos. going to dive into my 97 tahoe soon. should be a lot of similarities. i think the 97 has the next gen fuel injection tho
I bought an old farm truck and I was wondering why there was some kind of guck all over the transmission. It turns out, this quick connect was leaking . Now I have the task of removing the original fitting 😐
My '99 has one on the front of the intake as well. Transmission lines, and oil cooler lines have a similar set up. I've often said, Ford engineers infiltrated GM in the 90's. IDK any other reason for such a bad design.
Hi, Rudy, Listen to Dale. The proper ( not cheap chinneesium) constant load clamps are far superior and reliable. Even if you fold over the tail end of the screw clamp, you sort of prevent one issue. The temp changes in an engine, plus, the even pressure all around, plus, no damage to the outer skin of the hose... Never on a critical system.
My 96 has 440,000 miles, i live in cleveland with winter and salt. I have never had a problem with this piece. I replaced both the hose and fitting at over 250,000 miles just as maintenance from the hose rubber getting weak. Yours was so corroded, i would look at not flushing the coolant when the anti corrosion properties weaken. Most people dont even look at antifreeze condition, unless themselves are a mechanic.
it's not so much a matter of it being poor quality metal; just that its dissimilar metal. brass a much better choice. aluminum would be ideal ofc i like the pex fitting. looks like it should "grab" a little nicer than a standard barb
Typical GM!!! They may have saved $0.25 by using substandard materials. To answer your question about why the quick disconnect...It's all about speed and efficiency on the assembly line.
Hate those awful quick disconnect fittings. I tried to remove the one in my 97 Tahoe a while back but it seemed welded right into place and I didn’t want to risk something snapping off (like in your video). So I’ve just been swapping out the “guts” of the fitting. I’ve only had to do it twice over the past several years. Truck just rolled over 250K miles last week and has no leaks at all. (From anywhere!)
lol anyone who has any vehical with this engine has had that heater hose quick disconnect break. It will break on all of them eventually. If anyone has one that isnt broken best to take it off now and replace it with something different.
Brass, bronze, will be fine. Aluminum has physical properties that protect itself, though it can be mechanically challenging. He did not use copper. Correct. Note: Technically, u r correct in that galvanic action does occur, even in the most minute, and for almost all metals. The practical difference is the rate. 😊
For the love of everything that stands PLEASE change your bf all terrain so the white lettering is showing Im going crazy when people buy these tires and decided to go blank it just doesn't look right Please change it😭
@@christophernava6685 you can see them too Dang it jimmy this is the moment you went from jimmy to slippin jimmy Please fix the tires so we can see the whites out please 🥺
@@slalomking 70s ? When you buy a set of 1200 dollar tires your just gonna stick the blacks out Plus whites out give your truck more charter and if you see pictures of old square body suburbans and k1500 and k2500 suburbans you'd see how good this color combo would be White and blue with bfg whites out I agree some vehicles dont look right with white walls or tire lettering but trucks always look good
@@Averagegamer673 I agree!!!!! I think the 90s trucks(especially 96-99) need the white letters out...Solid or/OLWT!!! Now, on my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali (Black walls look best!!! They have 22s on them from the Factory!!!) also, its lower profile tire.... Just my personal preference!!! :)
Why not. Because my 66 Rambler has the same fitting setup. and so does the 69 Dart I am looking at. Going to do the same on my 89 Cheyenne as the original quick coupler is NLA and GM recommends you convert to this. As the Couplers are prone to failure and rapid engine overheating/accidents.
Lol. You’re gonna love when that leaks or takes out your heater core.
It’s a restriction for a reason. And it’s a quick connect so it takes 3 seconds to disconnect it while pulling the intake off.
Watched your video a year ago and it was great. Today my connector started leaking again. I will be following these steps you are a God send
Well done, one of your best. I don't know what GM was thinking, mixing aluminum and steel fittings in the presence of continuous water. Of course it was a long term disaster, done to make the task for assembly robots very slightly easier.
Proper antifreeze mixture prevents.
The manufacturers rely on the operator reading and following the owners manual.
Thanks for the update Jimmy! I remember replacing those POS plastic clips on my '97 Suburban. My '99 has them as well and since I don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere when they fail, I'm going to look into doing this to my 7.4!
Exactly why I did it. Didn’t want it to fail out in the middle of nowhere. 👍
@@1RoadGarage Yeah Jimmy, the small needle in the hose QC to low the flow pressure
Nice update. Manufacturers have been trying to do away with clamps and rubber hoses because it takes time to fit them correctly the factory. Also hoses need to be routed correctly so they do not rub or leak. I remember in the old days having to fix up problems with hoses on new cars.
Sometimes the restriction is to lower the volume/ pressure before components as not to over pressurize it
The best reason to use a restriction in the heater hose is to protect the heater core. On engines that can rev quickly, they can generate pressure surges that can over stress the heater core.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yup, a heater core bursting 200°f fluid onto the passengers feet and legs at High RPM stops all the fun.
It is a water restrictor limiting the amount of water for cooling. Barbed fitting works great also. Not that your is a diesel but Leroy Diesel sells an aftermarket brass connector with the restrictor that he makes.
It's about time! Told ya those things are nothing but trouble and heart ache. Lol! Mine has been swapped for 15yrs , zero issues. You'll be glad it's gone.
Right on
That's the comment I was looking for I wanted to make sure there was no issues on doing it with a brass fitting preciate it
U.S. MARINE Veteran
@@leewon4572 I've never had any trouble with it. Don't have to worry about it leaking either. My fitting was leaking and snapped off in my intake way back then. I was trying to get the broke piece out and damaged the intake unfortunately, so I replaced intake and put in the barb fitting. I wish I had known and could have changed it prior to that to the issue. That's why I try to warn others. I still drive my 98 everyday, even though I got a newer truck. Thanks for your service as well 👍
I did the exact same thing on my 1998 GMC Suburban a few years ago. mine was in the front next to the thermostat housing. It was also much less expensive to do it like you did, rather than replace the crappy quick connect.
oh, and of course it happened in winter when I needed my 4x4 to get to work in the morning (all rural roads)
Just came across this video (which is super helpful)! Has anyone that has replaced this and instead of using the cheap aftermarket crap went with the brass fitting had any issues with the flow through the heater core?. That is my biggest concern. Jimmy said he would update if it leaked again and the no comment on his part would lead e to believe everything is still running good and the added flow hasn't damaged anything. Would love to hear peoples experiences that have done this. Great video along with the one previously on the removal of the original OEM one.
Love the fact that you are all about that Suburban. Had been couple years now and always loved your content.
I deleted my Quick connect fittings 2 years ago and put a normal fitting on and never had any problems with it yet
I had a 1992 gmc truck that had the same factory fitting go bad.... I agree the quick disconnect is flimsy, I have a 1994 gmc now , that I want to do this conversion to. This video is a great self help tip. I would hate to be stuck on the highway in a storm , trying to fix the old set up, lol. 😂
these stock hoses are highly known to suddenly break off ontop of the motor leaving only the threads. rough stuff. super great upgrade
Interesting
Thanks for watching!
the purpose for the quick connect from the factory was:
1. faster vehicle assembly at the factory
2. more profit for manufacture due to time saved.
3. cheaper vehicle for the customer due to time saved.
that quick disconnect made sense at the time and only needed to last as long as the vehicle warranty.
My only question did the heater blow hotter? any noticeable difference with the larger inside diameter.
I had the same exact situation with a 1998 Chevy 3.1 Malibu.
They had a lot of plastic fittings that one day your driving and you then find your engine overheating because that fitting snapped off.
Got rid of the quick disconnect with a brass fitting and hose.🎉
That is an extremely common problem with the tbi motors. The fitting is made from a low alloy and crumbles like you said. I'm actually surprised that you chose to eliminate that joint.. since I feel you are very hesitant to change anything from the factory. It should give you years of service life like that now.
I was thinking the same exact thing watching this video. I was shocked that he replaced something original GM with something home made lol
You're the man love the burban repair vids
Thanks for sharing your videos. Next time if needed...all brass threaded inserted/threaded into your manifold/water pump/water jacket taps, use copper anti-seize thread sealant. Great, how to clear step by video!
Thanks!
You can actually get the part for a 96+ blazer, which has the proper flow restriction to replace that instead of pipe fittings. Did it to my truck about 10 years ago, still holding up. Not sure if you can buy them new anymore, but I'm sure there are loads of them in dead blazers at the junk yards.
Thanks for the info!
Yea if that's a fixed orifice for flow control then I'd wager its best to have that in place as too fast of flow will not transfer the qty of heat into the fluid going to the return side of the coolant loop.
Dont forget those fittings are on the oil cooler lines as well. just going thru mine at the moment. nice vid!
5:06 discovered the why the manufacturer choose that style of fitting.
Outstanding Job!!!!
The quick release are for you to use on track day😜
Nice work. I have regularly used barbed fittings but had never thought about the pet fittings- nice call. Do you have a link to the video about removing the broken piece?
Great!
I prefer to use a Dorman 56237 fitting and a Gates 28479 myself (for my 1997 5.7L and also on my 1996 7.4L).
I did something like that on a 1968 Oldsmobile back in the middle 70’s. It had a plastic heater control valve from the factory. The plastic valve had a restriction in it. My replacement fitting didn’t. Every time I accelerated around the corner from a stop I could hear water rushing through the heater core because water was rushing through the core too fast. I did it as a temporary fix but drove the car 6 years like that. Plastic heater valve, $ 18.00. Brass fitting $ 2.00.
Hi jimmy
First of all ptf tape comes in 2 types, there is liquid and there is gas ptf tape.
Plummers tape is the liquid ptf tape veriant.
Gas engineer tape is the gas ptf tape.
Liquid ptf tape for water, coolent and suchlike that do not use tapered fittings.
Gas ptf tape for all gas applications that do not use tapered fittings.
Something else brass and aluminium do not form electrolysis, corrode, they are none ferrous metals so are good with each other.
Any metal with iron in it as a base element will cause electrolysis as iron reacts with water.
The quick connection are for easy disconnection and reconnection in manufacturing and for the dealerships to charge more for labour as if they have to fit pipes the old way with barb connectors and clamps, plus to have the owner change the hoses more frequently than needed.
Good work on the replacement and it is far better flow of the coolent with no restrictions.
Thanks 🤙
Alum. and brass = electrolysis? I suspect the orifice size is to reduce flow from the engine back to radiator via heater core, thereby decreasing the engine warm up time which enhances ring life and block dimension stabilization.
That’s the first thing I do to my 5.7 vortec motors in my trucks 👍except I use a threaded nipple and a street 90 then hose clamp the heater hose to the 90. Never have to mess with it again until the heater hose busts because you installed headers and it was too close to them 😅
Awesome repair. I find myself questioning automotive engineers with my current and past vehicles.
you`ve got so much good idears 🙂
Better than factory spec! Yeah, baby
i hired my intake gaskets done last summer. Same connector broke
Might as well be made of plastic.
Did all this years ago on my ‘88 350 Chevy. Dug out the broken threads with a pick. Was a pain.
Did this job for oil cooler lines on my 98 Suburban
Now I have zero leaks + all liquid lines can be fixed on the road just in case of an emergency.
Fookin A RIGHT
Rage against the Machine
Those fittings have to be pretty old. That was a carburetor I saw, right ❓even brass wears out. I’ve used them and replaced them because the wall got so thin they crack. Nice solution. I really enjoy your video, lots of common sense
Not a carb. Throttle body.
This video came out at the PERFECT time! I was putting seadoo in my suburban and noticed a leak coming from this exact location!! Well i know for sure what im doing now!
The brass nipple is likely 7/8" Not 23mm. I noticed that heater hose QD when you did the intake gasket video. It does seem to cute by half. When you replace those nipples, always use brass, not steel. Brass is more noble than iron/steel, it won't corrode in that application. Steel will always end up corroded no matter how nice the zinc plating looks. The zinc is scraped right of the threads on 1st install. If all you can find is steel, install it with copper anti-seize.
Also, do not over torque them, they are tapered pipe threads. That's a big reason why you shouldn't be using 1/2" drive ratchet/sockets up there, they will help you over torque. Save the 1/2" drive stuff for chassis work. 3/8"drive up there is all you need, and it is easier to work with in confined spaces.
I've been there. The threads on those intake manifolds will be half worn out/corroded. You need to clean them up AND use silicone sealant. Torquing a brass fitting in alone will likely not seal it. I put steel Dorman 56237 fittings on my last two with silicone sealant and they worked great.
Good advice. Thank you.
@@nicholassmerk I wouldn't be silicone there. Copper anti-seize on steel nipples. The nipples are tapered, you might use Teflon tape on a new install but not silicone. The copper anti-seize will prevent the nipple from corroding in place. Silicone will not.
@@x-man5056 I understand what you are trying to say, buy disagree. For, example, head bolts are installed with sealant, most typically an ultra rtv. There are other less noble metals inside an engine to be converned about than a single heater hose nipple.
Mine goes right back to the heater core wall is that cool? Gonna attempt this today
That restriction is there to provide the correct cooling to the cylinder head You won't notice any problem until the head gasket fails (and the head is likely warped) Just place a restriction in your hose and poof good fix
what do you recommend for a restriction? how would you install so it does not come loose? TIA
@@joeybagodonuts9442 To do the job correctly ou would have to measure the original restriction and match it
Fel-Pro FTW!!!!
I don't know if that went through or not but just want to see if that worked and because I want to do the same thing I appreciate this video it helped me out tremendously cuz I don't want to deal with that piece of crap setting so I think you're right on the money so it's shout out I subscribed and I'll pass it along😊
U.S. MARINE
VETERAN
What’s the size of the new hoses?
Quick release was for faster factory installation purpose only...not the first company to do so...
I wished I had seen this last year 🤔
Nice idea. I like. My old cars have brass nipples. Of course!👍
is the restrictor in the original fitting to reduce pressure on the heater core?
You can tell it's a real problem when Lisle makes a tool that can sometimes get the NPT fitting out of the manifold. I changed my grandmother's manifold fitting years ago. I got the Lisle tool and it didn't work and had to pull the intake.
Hi Jimmy great video, it's been 7 months have you had any problems with the new part.
I felt that pain and anguish through my phone
There is a reason why most plumbing fittings are brass. It is self lubricating semi soft metal that wants to move apart. I removed a 40 year old dishwasher that was installed with brass pipe and fittings. It all came apart like new pipe.
you know what else is a "quick connect"? a fkn hose clamp!!
been enjoying your videos. going to dive into my 97 tahoe soon. should be a lot of similarities. i think the 97 has the next gen fuel injection tho
Good intel sir
I replaced the fitting and the clips on my 97, and it weeps coolant in the frigid Canadian winter weather. Thanks for illustrating the fix!
Good move..
How did this fix work out for you looking to do this to my truck tomorrow depending on how it worked for you
That factory fitting looks like a Constant Flow Valve. 👀
So you might have more heat from the heater.
Can you let me know what size hose you went back with I appreciate your time the black rubber hose attached to the new brass fitting
I bought an old farm truck and I was wondering why there was some kind of guck all over the transmission. It turns out, this quick connect was leaking . Now I have the task of removing the original fitting 😐
My '99 has one on the front of the intake as well.
Transmission lines, and oil cooler lines have a similar set up.
I've often said, Ford engineers infiltrated GM in the 90's. IDK any other reason for such a bad design.
Seriously.
What size extractor did you use??
I think it is smaller as a flow restrictor to save the heater core form too much pressure?????
Do you plan on replacing these on your newer suburban also?
I noticed that you don’t have your electric fans anymore. Did I miss something?
Yeah he foolishly removed them. I've had mine on my 95 for 10 years working perfectly.
Excellent! However I DESPISE those factory spring clamps. Anytime I can I always change to the stainless steel screw clmps.
Those spring clamps he used are superior in preventing leaks versus the screw clamp. Smart move he made using them.
Hi, Rudy, Listen to Dale. The proper ( not cheap chinneesium) constant load clamps are far superior and reliable. Even if you fold over the tail end of the screw clamp, you sort of prevent one issue. The temp changes in an engine, plus, the even pressure all around, plus, no damage to the outer skin of the hose...
Never on a critical system.
Yes you always have to keep tightening the screw clamps every year. Constant pressure clamp is the way to go.
My 96 has 440,000 miles, i live in cleveland with winter and salt. I have never had a problem with this piece. I replaced both the hose and fitting at over 250,000 miles just as maintenance from the hose rubber getting weak. Yours was so corroded, i would look at not flushing the coolant when the anti corrosion properties weaken. Most people dont even look at antifreeze condition, unless themselves are a mechanic.
it's not so much a matter of it being poor quality metal; just that its dissimilar metal. brass a much better choice. aluminum would be ideal ofc
i like the pex fitting. looks like it should "grab" a little nicer than a standard barb
Didn't you convert your gmc to electric fans?? Or am I missing something?
Typical GM!!! They may have saved $0.25 by using substandard materials. To answer
your question about why the quick disconnect...It's all about speed and efficiency on
the assembly line.
Hate those awful quick disconnect fittings. I tried to remove the one in my 97 Tahoe a while back but it seemed welded right into place and I didn’t want to risk something snapping off (like in your video). So I’ve just been swapping out the “guts” of the fitting. I’ve only had to do it twice over the past several years. Truck just rolled over 250K miles last week and has no leaks at all. (From anywhere!)
lol anyone who has any vehical with this engine has had that heater hose quick disconnect break. It will break on all of them eventually. If anyone has one that isnt broken best to take it off now and replace it with something different.
I've had this issue on our 2005; terrible GM engineering, and other makers use similar, for quicker install at the factory.
brass and aluminum will make corrosion there
wish someone would make a AN solution for it
This is a very common problem with these trucks.
That brake booster is waiting to implode...
Galvanic corrosion is headed your way I believe
Brass, bronze, will be fine. Aluminum has physical properties that protect itself, though it can be mechanically challenging. He did not use copper. Correct. Note: Technically, u r correct in that galvanic action does occur, even in the most minute, and for almost all metals. The practical difference is the rate. 😊
That’s things making more money
Check new one it’s every where
And also those are easy to assemble by robots 😅 to setting in the manufacture
Its a quick connect becouse GM knew they might be into those engines quite frequently
Why?
pre-2010, Quick connects = absolute fail 2010+ = 50/50...
🤗👍👌👏👏
For the love of everything that stands PLEASE change your bf all terrain so the white lettering is showing
Im going crazy when people buy these tires and decided to go blank it just doesn't look right
Please change it😭
white walls in! I'm the opposite hate when white walls are out.
@@christophernava6685 you can see them too
Dang it jimmy this is the moment you went from jimmy to slippin jimmy
Please fix the tires so we can see the whites out please 🥺
Dude, white lettering is so 70’s. It’s out of fashion now
@@slalomking 70s ?
When you buy a set of 1200 dollar tires your just gonna stick the blacks out
Plus whites out give your truck more charter and if you see pictures of old square body suburbans and k1500 and k2500 suburbans you'd see how good this color combo would be
White and blue with bfg whites out
I agree some vehicles dont look right with white walls or tire lettering but trucks always look good
@@Averagegamer673 I agree!!!!! I think the 90s trucks(especially 96-99) need the white letters out...Solid or/OLWT!!! Now, on my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali (Black walls look best!!! They have 22s on them from the Factory!!!) also, its lower profile tire.... Just my personal preference!!! :)
Good video
I stop watching when you moved.. like mostly suburban videos
Don't do this!!
Why not. Because my 66 Rambler has the same fitting setup. and so does the 69 Dart I am looking at. Going to do the same on my 89 Cheyenne as the original quick coupler is NLA and GM recommends you convert to this. As the Couplers are prone to failure and rapid engine overheating/accidents.
Excelente Maestro!!! 😊