Amaxing video, really helpfull! Could you share all those measurments on the description, I'm making some boards and that would be really usefull, thanks.
Thank you. Horizontal is much better looking but more difficult to shoot, I will make a custom mount to hold the phone in position 🙂... Resin tint should not add more weight in theory but it usually does because most will leave the lamination much more saturated (wet) to get a better and more uniform color. Clear let's me get away with a dry lamination.
How do you factor in the thickness of the glass when taking the measurements? Also, when tracing the outline and rails, is there a trick to compensate for this so the templates are true to the dimensions of the foam?
Great questions.... Subtracting a sixteenth is about right. Tracing an outline is difficult to get perfect so it is a combination of comparing the numbers that you take the the traced outline. In many cases you are taking out any bumps or kinks from the original anyway
Curious about the rocker arm. Do you have a spot on the rocker arm that is marked as center and then match this spot up with the exact center spot on the stringer? I ask because it seems that if the rocker arm is not perfectly balanced you will not be able to measure the nose and tail rocker properly. Does this make sense?
Thanks for this video. I try to get my broken Surfboard into 3DShape to send it to my local shaper. How to you measure the concave? This I don't get right from your video. Thanks.
It is simple. 1)You take rocker (stringer) measurements. 2) you take a flat bar across the board at those exact same points and measure concave 3) do a little math to get the rail line rocker which is important for handshaping or just the concave value that you input into the cad program at those same exact slice measure points
It depends on the way to cloth you use it how you wrap the rails but in general you can compensate with 1/16" less rail thickness. I don't compensate for the center fitness
I watched twice so don't think I missed it but how to mark out the transition of the corner radius which on my boards is about 1/64th or less along the rail near the fins, and transitioning up to an inch or more of radius in the middle and then of course decreasing again but never as hard as a 64th toward the nose?
This fine details are made by eye but the way people screen rails will determine the finished look and flow. Most shapers screen the same so the fine details naturally come out the same
Thank you always for your videos
Amazing video!! Thanks
This video was very informative! Thanks for taking the time to share and explain.
Thank you
Thank you , really good and good information to .
Great video, do you make compensation for the thickness of the glass/mats etc?
Amaxing video, really helpfull!
Could you share all those measurments on the description, I'm making some boards and that would be really usefull, thanks.
Email me at matt@kazumakinoshitasurfboards.com with the size and dimensions board you want to shape and I will send you a spec sheet
Great video. Planning to replicate my magic board. Camera horizontal so much better btw. Do you think resin tint makes a big difference in weight?
Thank you. Horizontal is much better looking but more difficult to shoot, I will make a custom mount to hold the phone in position 🙂... Resin tint should not add more weight in theory but it usually does because most will leave the lamination much more saturated (wet) to get a better and more uniform color. Clear let's me get away with a dry lamination.
How do you factor in the thickness of the glass when taking the measurements? Also, when tracing the outline and rails, is there a trick to compensate for this so the templates are true to the dimensions of the foam?
Great questions.... Subtracting a sixteenth is about right. Tracing an outline is difficult to get perfect so it is a combination of comparing the numbers that you take the the traced outline. In many cases you are taking out any bumps or kinks from the original anyway
@@kazumasurfboards Thank you for the great info! Very helpful.
Curious about the rocker arm. Do you have a spot on the rocker arm that is marked as center and then match this spot up with the exact center spot on the stringer? I ask because it seems that if the rocker arm is not perfectly balanced you will not be able to measure the nose and tail rocker properly. Does this make sense?
Yes there is a mark at the center of my rocker bar.
Thanks for this video. I try to get my broken Surfboard into 3DShape to send it to my local shaper. How to you measure the concave? This I don't get right from your video.
Thanks.
It is simple. 1)You take rocker (stringer) measurements. 2) you take a flat bar across the board at those exact same points and measure concave 3) do a little math to get the rail line rocker which is important for handshaping or just the concave value that you input into the cad program at those same exact slice measure points
@@kazumasurfboards Thanks. I will try.
does the fiberglass add thickness and should i compensate for that by making it thinner
It depends on the way to cloth you use it how you wrap the rails but in general you can compensate with 1/16" less rail thickness. I don't compensate for the center fitness
I watched twice so don't think I missed it but how to mark out the transition of the corner radius which on my boards is about 1/64th or less along the rail near the fins, and transitioning up to an inch or more of radius in the middle and then of course decreasing again but never as hard as a 64th toward the nose?
This fine details are made by eye but the way people screen rails will determine the finished look and flow. Most shapers screen the same so the fine details naturally come out the same