How To Install a Plugmold (Wiremold) for Low Profile Power
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Hey Gang! Coming at you with a little How To video today! We love these plugmold systems and have included them in so many of our remodels we decided to do a video on how to throw one of these bad boys together! We believe there a few tips and tricks in this video that will make your install go much smoother, things that we've learned the hard (and frustrating) way! If you enjoyed the video or if it helped you in any way be sure to leave a like and consider subscribing! We appreciate all of the support, thanks for watching, and we'll see ya in the next one!
if you are not the best you are one of the best when it comes to demonstrations and instructions. i am so glad i found your channel
Wow thanks James!! That's awesome, we really appreciate that👍👍
I have installed quite a few of these in my home, both with receptacles and the blank raceway to protect wire runs. I discovered that using a crimped butt splice (available at just about any hardware store or home center) to join the wires takes up even less room than the plugmold connectors that are included. It's a UL listed code compliant method and takes even less finessing to fit in the limited space. You just need a crimping tool to make the connection (my lineman's pliers have a crimper built in). I LOVE your channel. I consider myself a professional but have learned great tips from your drywall, tile, and cabinet install vids. Keep on rockin!
After reading all the reviews about how difficult it was to install usb Plugmold, you made it look much easier. I did install Plugmold under our cabinets in our kitchen renovation about 10 years ago and found it was much easier to work with aluminum than steel wiremold. Bravo Zulu!
Installing Plugmold is a fairly difficult job. In California we would normally run armored cable (AC) or metal clad cable (MC) through the back of the cabinet to serve the Wiremold to prevent the cable from being damaged. Recently I installed Plugmold, using a 1/2" chase nipple through the back of the plugmold base and screwed it into a 1/2" rigid coupling. The coupling is just about the right length to pass through the sidewall plywood material of the island and stands just slightly proud of the interior surfaces. I then used a right angle AC/MC connector screwed into the other end of the rigid coupling and then routed the cable through the cabinet and down through the subfloor. I used 3/8" 1-hole straps to secure the MC to the back of the cabinet with short sheet metal screws so that they didn't protrude through the thickness of the cabinet wall. By far the most difficult part of this job is managing Wiremold's splicing blocks. I would not stack them together as a group like you suggested, because it makes it difficult to deflect (squeeze) the Plugmold base and cover for installation and removal (if needed). Generally I'll put two splices on one side of a receptacle, and then another splice on the opposite side of the receptacle. The splices are design to accept up to two (2) #12 CU solid conductors in each end of a single termination block. They are very good connectors, and Wiremold makes a very good product - still USA made.
(Some may point out that rigid couplings are not UL listed to be used on threaded fittings which are not tapered. In this case I do not think it is an issue if using MC cable, since the cable assembly provides a redundant copper equipment bonding path independent of the fittings themselves).
Great tips thx Steve 👊
You are the first youtube videos I have ever subscribed too. I have watched several of your informative videos over the past year and you are great at explaning and good video work. I do have a question on this on how you would do this if you were to have a plugmold run that goes in opposite directions. There is no place to be able to put another set of wires. My feed wires come in at a corner area so I need to have plugmold go to the left and to the right. Other then putting in some kind of junction box, I dont see where this would be possible. Do you have a video on that?
This was the best video to show how to use the stab in connectors. I have a tight place I’m working in.
Cool thx Priscilla 👍
Absolutely appreciate the way you explain your actions. Everything makes good solid sense. Thank you. Keep up the great work.
Thanks - didn't know these things existed. Worked great on my island where there was no room to use a traditional outlet.
Excellent! Thx Todd👍
Very good. The forethought of clearance... Towel in the floor.. Pretty much how I would have done it. Except, I would use an orange cap to make the end capping a little easier. I love using the NM snap-in cable connectors as well. Believe it or not, Wiremold's plugmold used to come in 10' sections when Buff (orange) was the common color. They're still out there. Great for extra long work tables. Great job guys. You're killin' it!
Thx again for commenting. I've installed lots of the buff stuff and many other Wiremold products. They make some great products 👍
2:14 words I never thought I would ever hear Paul say - "I'm just going to eye-ball it in the center". Lol
Great work , thank you for explaining about the connectors on that string bar I used it and yes hard to do but you did a better job than I did .
A simple, yet well thought ought solution. The family will really appreciate having this.
they should do a redesign on this plug. whats the amps and wattage on the usb ports. it really sucks that most of these tend to have really weak usb capabilities
Gracias por tan buenas instrucciones, ahora puedo trabajar con el equipo!! Thank you!!!
Just the vid I needed. Thanks guys!
I really appreciate the detailed video. I'm planning to install these on the underside of my cabinets, and am trying figure out exactly how to feed power up into knockout. I'm thinking pulling the feed wire through the back of the cabinet at the base, running it to a hole drilled to connect through the knockout below. I would use wiremold cord covers to protect the wire in the cabinet. No outlet box required? Do you have a better suggestion? I just dont want to use the large end connector they supply in the kit.
check out this video:
www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-Plugmold-3-in-End-Feed-Fitting-Ivory-V2010A2/202520808
The Romex is feeding the Wiremold thru the bottom of the upper cabinet thru the knockout without using an "end fitting" like you described but they never show how the Romex is protected inside the cabinet. That would be my greatest concern.
Also check out this video we did: czcams.com/video/aVsQGTysvl8/video.html
Go to 13:00 where we show how we concealed/protected the wiring for undercabinet lights. I came back later and used silicon to adhere the wiring to the cabinet.
Nice! Perfect application. I didn't know they made those direct wire.
Thx Rick!
Great demo. And those devices are cool; didn’t know about them.
Nice job ......tight situation...your a pro man
Great as always!
Great video! Thank you so much
Well done and thank you.
Nice job guys!
I was able to do this only because I watched your video. It looks great if I could of shared a picture for you to see
Great series you guys did. You do a lot of little extra's that most builders don't do, and it shows in the end results. My dad and I have done a lot of remodels it wouldn't be as fun to me with my dad not being a part of it.. Enjoy that time together.
Some good precision there mr. no name ha.
😊 thx Jerry
Each kit comes with a bonding plate to properly bond the grounding conductor to the base shell of the plug mold.
I haven’t seen those 👍 I’ve only seen those grounding prongs that bite into the base
Is there a way to do this with the plug strip facing downward rather than outward while having the electrical wire coming out the side of the wall? My kitchen has open shelving and the wires cannot come from above. They must come out from the sheetrock wall.
0:20 Could you provide the link to the video where you connected the wire to a conduit please? I can't find it
You can also assemble the wiring first and run the cable through the hole save a step seems like a lot of extra work to do the wiring one the side when you can do it first on top of the counter. Just a suggestion
I actually done it that before Ruben. It's a great option. On this one, I didn't want to scratch any of the finished surfaces so I attached the plugmold first so it wouldn't move around on me
I love this stuff!!
Great how to! .one problem I have is trying to take this apart as one of the outlets malfunctioned and I have no power to the strip. I checked and replaced the breaker. How do you get the metal apart? Thx
You have probably figured it out by now, but you need to use a flat-blade screwdriver to separate the cover from the base. Depending on what went bad, I will point out that Legrand/Wiremold sells the Snapicoil receptacles and wiring harness separately, although this most likely would only be available on line or at the wholesale house. For the money it might be less expensive just to purchase a new assembly.
I want your thoughts on something. I’ve been in the trades (mainly roofing)most of my life with the exception of 4 years navy and a few years cooking and a few years working as a plate fitter in a structural steel shop. My goal is to become a sole proprietor doin pretty much what you do in all your videos (I’ve seen them all). In California it takes 4 years journeymen experience to get my contractors license. The only journeyman experience I have is roofing. Do you think the board will approve the kind of experience I have and give me a general contractors license? I’m hesitant to do it. Right now I am just working construction doin a bunch of what you do. In the mean time I am getting my business license which allows me to do up to $500 a job in California. I just want to get a head start on the networking (word of mouth). Of course I have to advertise as a unlicensed contractor which is a bummer but I don’t want to jeopardize my future as a successful business. I’m chasing the American dream..... well at least mine, do good work and get back what you put in.
Wow I rambled on a bit.
Any advice. I’m 33 and thinking about when I’m gonna be 53
Thank you
What if your outlet wires are too short
nice.
@2:53: A spade bit on finished carpentry?! Yikes. Next stop: Tear-out City.
Can these be used under cabinets vs. outlets in backsplash?
Yes but must be GFCI protected where applicable
Great video! I have almost the exact same situation and would like to install these on our island. I've searched for these online and can not find anyone that sells this particular setup (2 plugs + USB, 22 inch). Where did you get them?
Thx Ryan!! I got them at Home Depot in the electrical aisles. Good luck 👍
Im almost sure the wires are supposed to be made up in a jbox behind the strip inside of the cabinet.
Where did you get those stackable push in connectors?
They’re included with the power strip
@@StudPack Okay thanks.
🌹🌹
Where can I buy these at? Do you have a link for this thank you
I got them at Home Depot. Search online, shouldn't be too hard to find.
Ok thanks
@2:43: I really appreciate your suggestion about those Halex bushings; just wish you'd gotten your fat thumb out of the way so we could see the label. :)
... or linked it in the description.
I assume that is on a 15 Amp circuit breaker.
It’s on one of the 20 amp GFCI protected small kitchen appliance circuits
Are you asking because the receptacles are 5-15R? As long as there is more than one outlet on the circuit, it is acceptable for 5-15R receptacles to be connected to a 20A circuit.
I’ve got my plug mold wired but I cannot get it to snap together
Yeah that can be tough sometimes. Assuming nothing in the way, I’ve used a wooden block and light hammer taps or the butt end of a hammer (rubber grip)
I have tried that as well as cutting wood & whacked the end to Jack it in tight I cannot get it to snap ! I’ve ordered brackets to hold it together that go around it. I’m so beyond frustrated. My husband had helped me as well.
I wish I could FaceTime you !
There must be a wire behind one of the receptacles (there have to be routed around them on the side) or it’s bent somewhere
You cannot have a romex wire in the back of that cabinet without it being in conduit. Are you an electrician or handyman?
It’s not subject to physical damage IMO plus the inspector gave it a thorough look and thumbs up
Has to be GFCI protected
It is 👍👊
This is not how its done , the wires are supposed to be in a jbox inside of the cabinet , where you will have the space to make up wires. Lets say you did want to come off both ends of that strip you couldnt do it . No slot for a additional wire in that snap in connection or space .
Great job but no thanks. I'll do it another way.