take with a grain of salt because experience is not from airplanes! No is the correct answer on flare sealant. you want a mechanical connection for flares. the thread sealer is more or less not necessary and i personally feel its more of a lubricant than a sealant which is good because it keeps the aluminum flare from spinning from torque. you can get a crush washer for the fittings depending on the connection.
As was said by another… flare seals require no sealant. But to emphasize the sealant risk a little more directly… Several RV-ers have lost their lives because of thread sealant on fuel fittings. If even a small amount of sealant gets into the line during assembly, it can break free and block the fuel flow, causing the fan to stop. Flare seals are metal-to-metal seals and are very robust on their own (once you get them to not leak). Sometimes just disassembling a joint and putting it back together fixes a leak (sometimes it doesn’t). Use a crows foot and a good torque wrench and have fun.
Arc torque is what we used in the Army, tight plus 1/4 turn. We never even used thread lock. These were hydraulic lines and fuel lines. What other rudder pedal options are out there? I have only seen one other besides the stock.
Love Roatan! Been there 3 times with a bunch of scuba dive buddies over the years. (I'm a PADI instructor) Glad to see you updating and building again. I too have taken a break from my build, but it's because of work. Although I am posting videos on my channel (under my name), they are from months ago. Cheers from Winnipeg.
Wow...can't believe I'm almost caught up in the videos :) Thanks for taking me through this Jason (unfortunately I'd already ordered the RV-14A before I knew you could get a $100 "finders fee"). My build shop is going to bean 11' x 19' single car garage....good times as you might say :)
I remember you saying in a previous video that you two were going to get away for some R & R. And, thanks for the update on the Cherokee. I just closed on a Decathlon, and the title company said to expect 90-120 days to get the registration from the Feds.
In addition, it's not only not needed, it can be dangerous in a hydraulic system with small parts. Some sealant can get into the lines and clog something up when you least desire it. If the fitting is made up correctly it won't leak. If it isn't made up correctly then sealant wouldn't stop the leak anyhow.
What he said.. except ez turn is NOT a thread sealant! It will eventually leak. Use an actual thread sealant on npt tapered pipe threads. Locktite 565 or the higher temp 567 is the best. It’s a white paste. No sealant on the flare fittings.
NO! Those are AN type compression fitting and they seal on the taper and have nothing to do with any sort of sealing on the threads!!! Do Not, REPEAT, do not put any type of sealant on the threads; DO use a Wee-bit of Anti Seize on the threads. Use AN Wrenches where practicable - they are Vacation Expensive. It takes but getting them straight and tight - we do not Crank in any shape or form on these types of fitting, and you may want to get them off at some point in time - any type of sealant would be very bad! They are either straight forward simple and tight - or they are probably not done right.
Omg I have to thank you for the best laugh of the day it's not often I laugh out load by myself...next time maybe throw a British accent in haha... Also dump the goop.. !!! Tends to bring planes out of the sky.. personally I would get rid of the aluminum lines for stainless steel bends up just as easy with no cracking but as always fittings are more money.
Flared connections seal metal to metal. Do not put sealant on the mating surfaces! And putting it on the threads is a waste of sealant and just makes a mess. What is often recommended is a little lubricant on the threads to help prevent galling, but be careful as lubing the threads can make it easier to over tighten the fitting.
There is ZERO sealant between the mating surfaces.. and yeah I thought putting it on the threads was a waste of time too but it's what was recommended.. I am now going to remove it from the few I did that way because honestly can't see the point.
@@JasonEllisBuilds A little anti-seize as someone already mentioned isn’t a bad idea, but honestly a drop of motor oil is more than adequate if you don’t have anti-seize handy. Thread sealant is only needed on NPT fittings where the tapered threads form the seal, but you still need to seal the peaks and valleys of the threads as they seldom make perfect metal to metal contact as is the case with both flared fittings and compression style fittings.
Do not use any sealer on the NUT , sleeve or flare, at all on any line. As long as you have flared it correctly without cracking rhe flared end, it will seal and not leak when you tighten the NUT down.
Good to see you back. Glad you gave yourself time to just relax too!!
Good to see you back
take with a grain of salt because experience is not from airplanes! No is the correct answer on flare sealant. you want a mechanical connection for flares. the thread sealer is more or less not necessary and i personally feel its more of a lubricant than a sealant which is good because it keeps the aluminum flare from spinning from torque. you can get a crush washer for the fittings depending on the connection.
As was said by another… flare seals require no sealant. But to emphasize the sealant risk a little more directly… Several RV-ers have lost their lives because of thread sealant on fuel fittings. If even a small amount of sealant gets into the line during assembly, it can break free and block the fuel flow, causing the fan to stop. Flare seals are metal-to-metal seals and are very robust on their own (once you get them to not leak). Sometimes just disassembling a joint and putting it back together fixes a leak (sometimes it doesn’t). Use a crows foot and a good torque wrench and have fun.
And use proper thread locking stuff like Loctite instead of “something he told me to use”...
Thank You for commenting on this. I am a new RV-8 Builder and I am looking for all the information I can get to build this correctly.
Jason I’m so glad to hear you talking like me again.
Jason It’s good to see you back again ✈️🤗 hope yo got a good reset , and charge batteries 🏖 🏝
One task at a time.
Glad to see you back! I can fully understand the I just wanting to work on the project. But, the videos are so inspirational, please keep them coming.
Arc torque is what we used in the Army, tight plus 1/4 turn. We never even used thread lock. These were hydraulic lines and fuel lines. What other rudder pedal options are out there? I have only seen one other besides the stock.
Love Roatan! Been there 3 times with a bunch of scuba dive buddies over the years. (I'm a PADI instructor) Glad to see you updating and building again. I too have taken a break from my build, but it's because of work. Although I am posting videos on my channel (under my name), they are from months ago. Cheers from Winnipeg.
Good to have you back. Looking forward to all the updates when you can. Vacation looked awesome 👍🏻
Great to see a new vid Jason. Thanks for sharing your vacation. I know I am selfish, but keep uploading. Editing need not be perfect.
Jason, make sure you are using an aviation flaring tool and not the automotive type. Aviation is a 37 degree angle and automotive is 45 degree.
Wow...can't believe I'm almost caught up in the videos :) Thanks for taking me through this Jason (unfortunately I'd already ordered the RV-14A before I knew you could get a $100 "finders fee"). My build shop is going to bean 11' x 19' single car garage....good times as you might say :)
Man. Something about having those rudder pedals in made it really feel like a plane! Cant wait for the noises when you put the stick and seats in :D
Can you tell me where you got that pipe bender wrench? I didn't see it listed in your tool list.
There are a number of "tube benders" on Aircraft spruce; www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/470-fh.php?clickkey=6468
Don’t tell everyone about Roatan. That’s been my hidden gem for years. Love that place.
Welcome back brother! Congrats on your vacation 👍🏼
Appreciate it!!
How much does it cost to buy or rent such a garage?
I remember you saying in a previous video that you two were going to get away for some R & R. And, thanks for the update on the Cherokee. I just closed on a Decathlon, and the title company said to expect 90-120 days to get the registration from the Feds.
Do not use any sealant on the flange or the threads. The flare is a sufficient seal. Only use sealant on pipe thread fittings. I prefer EZ-turn.
And good to see another video!
What he said!
In addition, it's not only not needed, it can be dangerous in a hydraulic system with small parts. Some sealant can get into the lines and clog something up when you least desire it. If the fitting is made up correctly it won't leak. If it isn't made up correctly then sealant wouldn't stop the leak anyhow.
Exactly what I was going to say. No sealant on compression fittings
What he said.. except ez turn is NOT a thread sealant! It will eventually leak. Use an actual thread sealant on npt tapered pipe threads. Locktite 565 or the higher temp 567 is the best. It’s a white paste. No sealant on the flare fittings.
Watch out! You may have gotten Monkey COVID!
Monkey: “ Daddy, daddy,” just kidding 😄
NO! Those are AN type compression fitting and they seal on the taper and have nothing to do with any sort of sealing on the threads!!! Do Not, REPEAT, do not put any type of sealant on the threads; DO use a Wee-bit of Anti Seize on the threads. Use AN Wrenches where practicable - they are Vacation Expensive. It takes but getting them straight and tight - we do not Crank in any shape or form on these types of fitting, and you may want to get them off at some point in time - any type of sealant would be very bad! They are either straight forward simple and tight - or they are probably not done right.
Omg I have to thank you for the best laugh of the day it's not often I laugh out load by myself...next time maybe throw a British accent in haha... Also dump the goop.. !!! Tends to bring planes out of the sky.. personally I would get rid of the aluminum lines for stainless steel bends up just as easy with no cracking but as always fittings are more money.
New video title: (Building an RV10: So easy a monkey could do it?). 😁. If only that were true….
Flared connections seal metal to metal. Do not put sealant on the mating surfaces! And putting it on the threads is a waste of sealant and just makes a mess. What is often recommended is a little lubricant on the threads to help prevent galling, but be careful as lubing the threads can make it easier to over tighten the fitting.
There is ZERO sealant between the mating surfaces.. and yeah I thought putting it on the threads was a waste of time too but it's what was recommended.. I am now going to remove it from the few I did that way because honestly can't see the point.
@@JasonEllisBuilds A little anti-seize as someone already mentioned isn’t a bad idea, but honestly a drop of motor oil is more than adequate if you don’t have anti-seize handy.
Thread sealant is only needed on NPT fittings where the tapered threads form the seal, but you still need to seal the peaks and valleys of the threads as they seldom make perfect metal to metal contact as is the case with both flared fittings and compression style fittings.
When did you get an southern accent!?! I don’t remember it from the previous videos. Glad you had a good vacation!
As the resident nipple expert, I also agree that you should not apply sealant.
Joking aside, glad you're back at it.
Do not use any sealer on the NUT , sleeve or flare, at all on any line. As long as you have flared it correctly without cracking rhe flared end, it will seal and not leak when you tighten the NUT down.
Jabber Jawing with your sister wife. LOL. Its ok. id drawl allot worse if I lived there. Smh.