I just painted it on the outside. It produces some cool looking west and year marks. I sanded it so it would hold the paint better and it’s worked out pretty good. I used regular spray paint from the hardware store and vinyl for the graphics.
@@MtOlympusRC Cool! Thanks for the reply. I just took the stickers off and shot some matte black on the inside to tint the windows. Very sleek looking. However, I might end up with your method.
@@iamnoone6607 so I taped the windows with blue painters tape and with a knife cut it to shape to keep the windows clear. I enjoy all the little detail work though. Except when you paint the inside, that is a challenge for sure.
@@MtOlympusRC I have a new painted fighter body on the way from helidirect. The stickers are on a sheet. Dare I lightly sand it and murder it out with the matte black on the outside then put the front, rear, and window stickes on after? Hmmm...
@@iamnoone6607 I say go for it! I got a clear lizard body and tried to paint it from the inside out. It looks pretty sweet even though it’s not perfect. I also would say maybe add an accent color. Dark gray or do a matte with gloss black fenders or something like that.
I'm about to buy this Cr-18 Evo Pro. To your eyes, what are the options this rig absolutely needs ? OK ! Metal drive shafts and a good steering servo.😊 Anything else ? Why did you choose the brushed version ? Lower price (than the BL) only or another reason ? Thanks for these vidéos !👍
I would get the drive shaft and servo from the get go. I ran it a ton this weekend and if you want to keep it budget friendly you could stay there. It’s a beast!!! I also didn’t know there was a brushless motor option but I have no complaints about performance on the brushes motor. The only small this is it comes in contact with the front upper links. Totally recommend this truck!
Thanks for your answer@@MtOlympusRC Yes, there is a brushless version that comes with a Furitek lizard pro and a Venom motor. The same i have on my FX118 and it works great.
I recommend a rubber sealed ball bearing kit, stainless steel gear micro steering servo, stainless steel center drive shafts, & stainless steel steering links. Then work on getting a second battery & 1" beadlock wheels & smaller 55mm tires for a far better center of gravity to climb better.
I’m not sure what “in phase” means exactly but the one end where there is wobble has a wider mouth if you will where it attaches to the diff gear. I will be getting the one from hobby plus eventually. I’ve got a video coming this Saturday that I’ll go over all of this in more depth.
Did you buy a new clear body or strip the paint off?
I just painted it on the outside. It produces some cool looking west and year marks.
I sanded it so it would hold the paint better and it’s worked out pretty good. I used regular spray paint from the hardware store and vinyl for the graphics.
@@MtOlympusRC Cool! Thanks for the reply. I just took the stickers off and shot some matte black on the inside to tint the windows. Very sleek looking. However, I might end up with your method.
@@iamnoone6607 so I taped the windows with blue painters tape and with a knife cut it to shape to keep the windows clear. I enjoy all the little detail work though. Except when you paint the inside, that is a challenge for sure.
@@MtOlympusRC I have a new painted fighter body on the way from helidirect. The stickers are on a sheet. Dare I lightly sand it and murder it out with the matte black on the outside then put the front, rear, and window stickes on after? Hmmm...
@@iamnoone6607 I say go for it! I got a clear lizard body and tried to paint it from the inside out. It looks pretty sweet even though it’s not perfect.
I also would say maybe add an accent color. Dark gray or do a matte with gloss black fenders or something like that.
Solid rig! Nice custom paint too. All stock servos kinda blow. You got a good one there. Cheers, I subbed.
Thanks! I love custom stuff!!! Thanks for the sub!!!
I just subscribed I’ll be watching for more, this is my passion also love it. Appreciate the video catch on the next one
Thanks! I love finding a passion. This is a ton of fun!!!
I'm about to buy this Cr-18 Evo Pro. To your eyes, what are the options this rig absolutely needs ?
OK ! Metal drive shafts and a good steering servo.😊 Anything else ?
Why did you choose the brushed version ? Lower price (than the BL) only or another reason ?
Thanks for these vidéos !👍
I would get the drive shaft and servo from the get go. I ran it a ton this weekend and if you want to keep it budget friendly you could stay there. It’s a beast!!! I also didn’t know there was a brushless motor option but I have no complaints about performance on the brushes motor. The only small this is it comes in contact with the front upper links.
Totally recommend this truck!
Thanks for your answer@@MtOlympusRC
Yes, there is a brushless version that comes with a Furitek lizard pro and a Venom motor. The same i have on my FX118 and it works great.
Just don’t get the driveshaft I show in this episode! It was ok for slow crawl but at the higher speed it was no good.
I recommend a rubber sealed ball bearing kit, stainless steel gear micro steering servo, stainless steel center drive shafts, & stainless steel steering links. Then work on getting a second battery & 1" beadlock wheels & smaller 55mm tires for a far better center of gravity to climb better.
@@DTW-bx2vy OK ! Thank you.👍
Did you have the driveshaft mounted in phase? Only time I've seen one wobble like that was one side of it was mounted off from the other.
I’m not sure what “in phase” means exactly but the one end where there is wobble has a wider mouth if you will where it attaches to the diff gear. I will be getting the one from hobby plus eventually.
I’ve got a video coming this Saturday that I’ll go over all of this in more depth.
@@MtOlympusRC in phase means all your set screws for the shafts are in alignment. It's an easy thing to miss when changing the shafts.
Oh yeah. The one thing this doesn’t have is set screws. Those would solve the issue for sure.
My son broke both driveshaft’s in the first hour. Seems like a weak link for sure.
I read that was an issue before I bought it. It’s for sure a weak link, It seems like with all metal gears it needs to be steel right outta the box!!!