How Are Selvedge Denim Jeans Made?
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
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Selvedge denim jeans are different from regular jeans. Yes, they have the interesting pattern on the outside of each leg, but what I find more interesting is how the pattern is drafted for these pants.
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00:00 - Introduction
03:03 - First Draft
06:31 - First Sample
07:09 - First Review
08:45 - Second Sample
10:44 - Second Review
11:23 - Taking Apart Jeans
12:50 - Comparing Patterns
15:56 - Final Thoughts
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#jeans #denim #fashion
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Minor clarifications for the start: a fabric selvedge only gets the loops on shuttle-woven fabrics. Most fabrics these days are done with a cut weft that is shot in from one side only, and you instead get a fluffy selvedge with the loose weft thread ends sticking out. Also it's worth showing the twill weave that most denim has, since selvedges are usually plain woven to keep them tighter and less prone to fray.
And yes, woven fabric is very forgiving of trapezoidal distortions. You essentially take advantage of the stretch along the bias to make up for the skew. (Fun fact: some brands use a broken twill weave denim to avoid the twisting of the pant leg that you can get with regular unidirectional twill weave denim fabric, caused by the uneven bias stretch)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with myself and others in the comments here. 🙏🏻 Additional context is always great.
It depends on where the fabric is also woven, if from India or Pakistan then it is as how Cornelia’s showed in the diagram, as they still weave the old way, whereas many of the fabrics woven in China have that furry edging to it as they are using those types of machines. They are also your polyester and acrylic mixed combined cotton or woollen fibers. It’s the fastest way to tell if the fabric is cotton poly or just fully polyester as they do have a furry/fluffy edge.
It also depends on the quality of the fabric as well. The fabrics that I buy do not have the furry edge as they are shuttle-woven as well as having a tighter selvedge to the rest of the fabric.
The Japanese woven denim is of a higher quality to that out of China and it does not twist or warp as does the Chinese denim is prone to doing.
If I am shopping for fabric in person I avoid fabrics that have the fluffy edges to them, their edges shrink more when pre washed. Over time I have worked out the best fabrics to buy are those not made in China, in the past 20-30 years the quality of the cotton bolts for quilting have become very thin and of a poorer quality to what it once was. I find it’s over priced as well. Their 100% cotton Fiber bolts are done on the shuttle-woven system as the edges of all quilting based fabrics salvage is neatly finished, it is also used to print the information of designer as well as the colour key of the bolts.
I don’t buy any fabric that has polyester, acrylic or nylon any more as they retain a smell over time from body sweat and oils and they start to go yellow over time due to this, no mater how much you wash them. These are the fabrics that are mostly produced on the new style of weaving machines. They have that furry edge to them also you can see where the machine teeth have punctured the edge of the fabric.
I have found the natural fibers have the best quality and there are more plant based fibers like lining now being produced. Plus the new all natural recycled fibers into new fabric is now starting to get some traction in the fabric industry alone, now with wool and other natural fibers making a comeback and being reasonable priced from other countries we are getting a nice selection and choice as well as quality again.
Sometimes I wonder if i should go back to school and study design, then I watch these kind of videos and I know I'm on the right track.
Congrats, your videos are highly informative, well planned, I love the desk, makes you look professional. Love the new light. The fabrics is not a mistery, its for a new suit for me, right? No? Can i be? Lol
I follow a lot of sewing videos and there's no one like you out there. Keep up the good work.
You are kind, thank you! I'm glad to hear you get something from my videos. Also, you are most definitely on the right track :)
Yes Cornelia’s has very distinct way about him 😂 I have been watching some of his older videos lol
I found your channel through YT Shorts and I am so glad that I did. The information you share is fascinating, engaging, accessible and indispensable. Thank you!
That's awesome, thank you. I appreciate your interest.
I soooo much enjoy your videos!!! I’m a self-taught sewer and you do a GREAT JOB explaining why patterns are the way they are. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
P.s. I also find you extremely entertaining to watch!😜
Thank you, I'm glad you get something out of my content and are entertained. Thanks for watching.
Really enjoyed seeing the process of straightening the outer seam and adjusting inner seams. Proud to be a Patreon supporter.
And your support is greatly appreciated. I'm glad you got something from this video.
I always get something from your videos. Production quality keeps me coming back. While I’m not making my own clothes, I am a male wearing similar clothes. 🤓
I have today just finished making my first pair of jeans for myself. I kept coming back to your pants sewing and drafting videos for guidance so I am very grateful for your awesome content! Rare to find amazing sewing and pattern drafting content for menswear
Good on you for getting them made! I hope they get plenty of wear.
Stretchiness of fabric certainly counts for something. Thanks for fascinating video
indeed. thank you.
Interesting analysis. I have often wondered about the fit of pants cut with the side leg on the straight of grain, with extreme curved inner legs, so I appreciate that you made some sample pants and modeled them in the process.
I'm glad you got something out of what I shared. Thanks for watching.
When you did the curved zipper all I could think of was "codpiece jeans". Could be a new fashion trend.
Seeing the pattern alterations was informative. Thanks.
I mean, it is one of the few fashion trends in history, that have not been endlessly recycled, yet 😅
What's old is new again, so who knows :)
It’s so funny this came into my box today after I just received a batch of fabric I had ordered online, it never showed the salvaged online but when I got the order it has the prettiest selvedge I have ever seen lol it is a total strip of all the colours used in the weave.
Oh that's awesome. Sounds like it must be a nice fabric!
My fabric came one day ago this video cant come better
nice :)
doing that tuck/dart at the bottom of the pant leg is kinda smart. With many wovens, if the bottom of the leg is off grain it'll hang oddly -- if you look at your white pair, they angle inward a bit, making you look very slightly bowlegged. More often though, the inseam will twist outward. I'm a fan of wide legged trousers, so I'd probably widen the leg to keep the outer straight, and not taper it on the inside.
That's a good point. I hadn't thought about this. Thank you for sharing.
Very interesting. Great video. Thanks! 💜💜💜
Thanks for watching!
I had always presumed (b/c this is how I would do it) that a faux-selvage, crafted out of twill-tape, was added to the edge of a regular pant leg. It would not be difficult to do although this would require attaching the tape by hand -- the additional money people willingly shell-out for selvage jeans would more than compensate for an extra 30-min work.
However, the added seam you found is very interesting! I'd love to hear more about that.
That added seam essentially allows for a more traditional pant pattern but to still keep the selvedge, if that makes any sense.
I was wondering if the side seam was an alteration to make the jeans slimmer. Could that be the case?
Another cool video, Cornelius.
Thank you!
pattern drafting is just all about ease distribution, especially when converting a pattern into a selvedge pattern. A couple months ago I had to transform a pattern into a selvedge one and was stressing so much about it due to the curves, until randomly I just thought why don't I move the curves around the way you did in this video. It was like a light switched in my mind
It's kinda like "what is done to one side you must do to the other" or much like you explained in your so very helpful drafting video that one adjustment typically affects something else that also has to be adjusted in order to accommodate. So helpful you are!
Oh nice, I'm happy to hear you were able to figure it out for yourself and that this method was the same as yours.
I have wondered how they did it. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
i always wanted to make my own clothes. but don't have the time nor money to make that happen in foreseeable future unfortunately. found your channel recently and love you and your videos. you're great at this 🙏
Oh nice, well I hope you eventually have the time and money!
Thank you for this. I have some great blue cross weave with red selvedge. This has helped me figure out how to show it off down the outer seams. Flat felled seam that does not tuck under in final step? Half felled I guess?
Oh nice, I'm glad to hear this was of use. I hope the fabric of yours gets all used up now :)
I am new to your videos and am enjoying them and learning a lot. Thank you so much! I have a question though: I just noticed the paper that you are using. I ordered some and initially, I left a really stupid review on Amazon about it but then realized I was dealing with something much more sophisticated. Can you do a video about the paper with the grid of numbers you are using and how to use it properly? (Forgive me for not remembering what it is called). Thank you again Mr. Quiring 🙂
It's an alphanumeric grid. They are all 1 inch apart (on my video anyways). And from what I've been able to learn, the grid functions a lot like battleships/old maps where the alphanumeric grid is mainly use to locate sections.
@@CorneliusQuiring Huh. Maybe it's not the same paper I bought. Mine is definitely not 1 inch apart. I measured it. A mystery to keep me occupied ☺️Thank you for getting back to me about it. 🙂
Have been thinking the same thing for ages, thank you for clearing it up! Are you going to make your own pair?
I was thinking about making a pair in a future video. So perhaps coming up.
Looking forward to it!
Great analysis! Oddly I never knew Selvedge jeans were a thing.
Me neither. Maybe it just exists for menswear? I mean, with women, you have to account for the more rounded hip.
Yes, I think they are much more common in menswear.
It was a thing as Jeans wasn‘t slim and with Lycra 😊. I have old ones and now they are back again. But this are at least straight leg pants or a Little tapered in or out
My thought is that one could take this info and make pants with only inside leg seams. If one has a fabric with a particular pattern, not having a seam down the outside could be ideal.
Indeed, that is true! That's a great point.
It is how they get full leg patterns on sweat pants. Halloween designs come to mind.
I don't think it's so much that "fabric is floppy" as that "human legs are not in fixed positions". The modified pattern will make the leg of the pant hang perfectly when your feet are a couple inches further apart compared to the original pattern, but you naturally stand with your feet in all kinds of different positions so the difference in ideal position is negligible. An issue if you're fitting a mannequin, but not so much a person, esp in workwear.
In fact, the modified pattern aligns the grain along the outseam rather than the front which would be a *bigger* problem in a "floppier" fabric, where the weight of the inseam along increased bias might mess up the break of the cuff, but in stiff denim a few extra % of bias isn't going to do much.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts in comments here and for elaborating. I appreciate you adding to conversation with your knowledge.
I really enjoyed your process of testing. TBH I had dismissed selvedge jeans as a marketing gimmic, and could not understand what was so important to have the selvedge finish when it is concealed anyway?
This is just my theory, but I get the sense that it's a case of "because we can" as opposed to there being a real reason.
At the back of trouser the space for the fishing and the length is what ? really want to know
Bonus: bias stretch across the curvy bits makes for a better fit.
That's a good point!
👍
Hi, do you have a video on how i can draft a yoke? i didnt understand the second sample. Also, am i supposed to watch your video on drafting a normal pant pattern first, then modify it to a selvedge pant pattern shown in this video?
I do not have a yoke video yet, I plan to do a full jean tutorial at some point. For now, yes, could could do the pant drafting video first, then do this make selvedge denim jeans.
@@CorneliusQuiring Really looking forward to that jeans tutorial and i hope it comes soon, your videos help me a lot as a beginner getting into sewing pants
? what's is the Normal length of a shirt pocket
Interesting. So that's why mens' jeans occasionally look so weirdly 'bowlegged'. I have noticed that, when looking at jeans in second hand stores, which aren't always sorted for men/women. They look oddly distorted and I could never figure out, why they had such an odd shape.
This could very much be it. The little red and white selvedge is always a giveaway.
Thats not needed for a selvedge trouser. Thats only a design Choice. This Type of bowlegged ones have mostly a deeper rise and are not close Fitting. You can find straight legs with selvedge denim. For men.
@@claudiakneutgen4485
I'll definitely examine them closer, next time I see any.
I think that this phenomena is familiar to anyone who has done dart rotation.
That's a great comparison.
what's the normal length of a shirt pocket
You can make it whatever you want.
You're so quirky 😂
🤪
So it's in the drape of the fabric then?? In other words, if these items were made with fabric that were thick and stiff, it would have worked out differently??
Kind of, yes. Jeans also aren't the most form fitting and so that's why we can get away with it.