I've had great success with the Tamiya Quicksetting Cement on larger joints. It's especially useful where joints don't line up too well and I go round the assembled parts bit by bit getting them lined up as I go. You get used to how much you apply and avoid opening up joints you've just glued. I'd say I use it more than any other glue.
Small world, I get two chats on Saturday with the long Distance time line. Thanks for sharing the Revell blue, it is absolutely stunning. I'm not Sure about the history between Revell and Humbrol but I started with Humbrol and really like the formulation. If I can find some Revell I'd like to give it a shot. On small scale and parts I do like the capillary action of the Tamyia On some kits that have so many pitot tubes and antenna the thin formula is typically number one. The thick works well for cockpit details. They both dry quickly with virtually leave no residue. For large kit fuselage and wing kits I prefer to use the clear gel glue like Testors it's almost like a weld and if you let it dry long enough can be cut off close to the seam. Sometimes if you use the Tamiya it picks up colors and dissolves into the chair - mostly with reds. I do have some 80 and 90 era Humbrol if used the lids did seal and can't be salvaged however when I finally discovered how to seal them properly with a tack hammer, they are still good, .. I do have quite a memory scar on my thumb regarding using Xacto knife. It's at least from 1965 and required several stiches when I was trying to trim up some plastic and was pulling instead of pushing the blade away. YES, no name on the pilot of the Spitfire it did indeed go down at RAF Coningsby, Lincolnshire Saturday about 1:30 UK time. A sad event, , especially as there are a lot of the " vintage" warbirds flying at commemorative airshows for Battle of Britain and D- day.at this time . While I do love to see them fly and make models, they are certainly difficult to restore and maintain they should probably just conduct low stress airframe flights. In the US we've had several crashes of multi engine aircraft over the last few years. Thanks again for the Sunday chat on Saturday.. oh, I did hear they found Richard Bongs P38 in Papua New Guinea but the government prevents them from salvaging it so they can only take photographs at this time. Cheers Bob..
Yup, got to think of pilot and his family, but another Spitfire gone forever, just tragic, like the Super cobra and B17 some years ago. Wouldn't want to see all 'Warbirds' grounded, but that's the risk you have to take flying them. Great video with various items, thanks!!
The RAF owned, Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, MK356, a LF.XVIe in the markings of Squadron Leader Johnny Plagis (5J-K), with invasion stripes is the plane in the accident while preparing for the 80th anniversary of D-Day. I will sometimes use the Quick Set to vary the bonding time when using Extra Thin or the alternative, Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. If there is the proper amount of melted styrene created, it should make for a strong bond regardless. For large parts like the internals of a 1/24 Airfix Mk.IXc Spitfire wings , I use a paint brush versus the bottle cap applicator to prepare the plastic before joining the top half and or/use the white cap Tamiya Cement and let it cure for 24 hours.
I only use the quick setting by Tamiya on small parts that I know have lined up perfectly. Larger parts like wings, engines, fuselage I use the slower setting cement to give me a bit of time to move the parts a bit to line them up.
I find the Tamiya extra thin with capillary action to be quite adequate for most all seams as long as there is no added stress to the bond, like forcing parts together while the cement cures. Securing occasional interior reinforcements is about the only situation where I might use a thicker cement.
I generally only use the quick setting on the smaller parts we add at the end such as pitot probes as it doesn`t attack the paint as much as the slower setting. I don`t use it on major joints so much.
I've had great success with the Tamiya Quicksetting Cement on larger joints. It's especially useful where joints don't line up too well and I go round the assembled parts bit by bit getting them lined up as I go. You get used to how much you apply and avoid opening up joints you've just glued. I'd say I use it more than any other glue.
Small world, I get two chats on Saturday with the long Distance time line. Thanks for sharing the Revell blue, it is absolutely stunning. I'm not Sure about the history between Revell and Humbrol but I started with Humbrol and really like the formulation. If I can find some Revell I'd like to give it a shot. On small scale and parts I do like the capillary action of the Tamyia On some kits that have so many pitot tubes and antenna the thin formula is typically number one. The thick works well for cockpit details. They both dry quickly with virtually leave no residue. For large kit fuselage and wing kits I prefer to use the clear gel glue like Testors it's almost like a weld and if you let it dry long enough can be cut off close to the seam. Sometimes if you use the Tamiya it picks up colors and dissolves into the chair - mostly with reds. I do have some 80 and 90 era Humbrol if used the lids did seal and can't be salvaged however when I finally discovered how to seal them properly with a tack hammer, they are still good, .. I do have quite a memory scar on my thumb regarding using Xacto knife. It's at least from 1965 and required several stiches when I was trying to trim up some plastic and was pulling instead of pushing the blade away. YES, no name on the pilot of the Spitfire it did indeed go down at RAF Coningsby, Lincolnshire Saturday about 1:30 UK time. A sad event, , especially as there are a lot of the " vintage" warbirds flying at commemorative airshows for Battle of Britain and D- day.at this time . While I do love to see them fly and make models, they are certainly difficult to restore and maintain they should probably just conduct low stress airframe flights. In the US we've had several crashes of multi engine aircraft over the last few years. Thanks again for the Sunday chat on Saturday.. oh, I did hear they found Richard Bongs P38 in Papua New Guinea but the government prevents them from salvaging it so they can only take photographs at this time. Cheers Bob..
Yup, got to think of pilot and his family, but another Spitfire gone forever, just tragic, like the Super cobra and B17 some years ago. Wouldn't want to see all 'Warbirds' grounded, but that's the risk you have to take flying them. Great video with various items, thanks!!
The RAF owned, Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, MK356, a LF.XVIe in the markings of Squadron Leader Johnny Plagis (5J-K), with invasion stripes is the plane in the accident while preparing for the 80th anniversary of D-Day.
I will sometimes use the Quick Set to vary the bonding time when using Extra Thin or the alternative, Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. If there is the proper amount of melted styrene created, it should make for a strong bond regardless. For large parts like the internals of a 1/24 Airfix Mk.IXc Spitfire wings , I use a paint brush versus the bottle cap applicator to prepare the plastic before joining the top half and or/use the white cap Tamiya Cement and let it cure for 24 hours.
I use to go through modeling knife blades ten a penny, snapping the tips off, as I used them to prize the top of model paint tins off!!!!!
I only use the quick setting by Tamiya on small parts that I know have lined up perfectly. Larger parts like wings, engines, fuselage I use the slower setting cement to give me a bit of time to move the parts a bit to line them up.
For visors, I've used gloss black with a drop of gloss varnish.
I find the Tamiya extra thin with capillary action to be quite adequate for most all seams as long as there is no added stress to the bond, like forcing parts together while the cement cures. Securing occasional interior reinforcements is about the only situation where I might use a thicker cement.
I generally only use the quick setting on the smaller parts we add at the end such as pitot probes as it doesn`t attack the paint as much as the slower setting. I don`t use it on major joints so much.
I use E.M.A model supples plastic weld it works for me 🤷🏻♂️ try it 👍🏴🏴