This $500 Shed Roof Will Last 50 YEARS!
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- čas přidán 11. 11. 2022
- In this video, I'm showing you how to build a shed roof that will last 50 years. And You Don't Have To Get On The Roof To Build It. Thanks for watching. Watch the entire series 👉🏼 • Shed/Backyard Bar Series
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Thanks for watching! Watch the entire Shed 2.0 series here 👉🏼czcams.com/video/H596PLvg2AY/video.html
I used this same metal roofing for my new shed last winter. I opted for the L shaped drip trim and installed a gutter too. I love it, and my neighbors complemented its look, so everyone is happy! Cheers!
If you live in a cold northern climate it is a good idea to sheet the roof and apply a membrane. If you don't sheet and apply a membrane you will have frost forming on the underside of the metal. When the roof warms up it rains inside your building.
From personal experience cutting 26ga steel roofing panels: wear hearing protection - it's like gunshot loud, wear goggles - those metal flakes fly everywhere like little steel spears. I also turn the sawblade backwards.
We're going to get this done in the next 30 min. 3 hours later!!!!! Story of my life. LOL
life happens. Cheers!
LOVE WHEN U SAID "perfect every time" this happens when u master ur craft
The roof support should be perpendicular to the metal sheeting, and the outer edges of the metal sheeting should overhang all sides an inch or so, not have a board sticking up on the edges.
Did you break the 7 1/4 metal cutting blade when you threw it? Something went down, camera guy was stifling a laugh I’m sure of it. Dude, the amount of tips you throw into each video is phenomenal. Ripping boards lengthwise without tablesaw, the screw to create a “pilot” hole, scoring and bending the sheet metal, applying the caulking extra-wide and self-levelling... and more I’ve forgotten already, I’ll have to rewatch a couple times. THANK YOU - You’re helping me help others.
14:38 you actually should only compress until the washer is making very firm contact, bc if it compresses the washer out it dry rots much faster and can be an early failure point.
Cheers for that. Obviously I am not a sheet metal worker. Appreciate your advice.
I don't have to build a roof - I just love watching your channel. Thank you
Glad you enjoy it! Cheers!
I was skeptical about the durability of a $500 shed roof, but this video proved me wrong! The materials and construction techniques used are not only cost-effective but also ensure a long-lasting roof that can stand the test of time. Kudos sir.
Great video as always, thanks! Looking forward to building something similar in summer 2023 for a new shed.
Cheers John You got this!
HA! Hi Jeff (From Kamloops, BC) great video, one building season too late for me :D Just built two 10ftx10ft sheds with 12ft x 12ft metal roofs (8ft back & 10ft front walls) this past spring. Used your other videos as helpful guides. Thank you! Used L trim on the backside of the roof as well (like Robert James). Worked perfectly to keep the water off the fascia & building! Going to do gutters that drain into barrels next year any ways, need to save the water. Keep up the great videos! Oh right, also used 1 sheet of "clear acrylic green house sheeting" cut to fit into the north-facing pony wall for light, works awesome. Enjoy the snow storm =-D
" Schlock Mercenaries" The 70 Maxims For Mercenaries #37 "There is no such thing as Overkill, There is open fire and I'm reloading!"
You're really setting that boy up well for life. When the girls ask what he does, he can say "Baby, I build."
Jeff, I love your stuff, but there are so many rookie mistakes in this video. That "k panel" metal sheeting is designed to be supported across the panel, not along it. You need battens running perpendicular to the roof rafters. They don't need to be big - metal "top hat" battens are a cheap option, or you could even use a 2x4 ripped in half. For use as a roof, the panels need to be fixed through the rib, not the pan. Otherwise, you are relying solely on the rubber seal on the screw to keep water out, and they are easy to over-drive or under-drive, and they eventually wear out anyway. You should also not use an impact driver to drive roofing screws - the hammering action damages the protective coating on the screw head, and they will eventually corrode. And for the love of everything, just buy barge capping for the sides! Barge capping comes in the same color as the roofing, and probably costs less than a cedar 2x6, but will last three times as long and never need any maintenance, plus you will not be relying on sealant.
Metal roofing is not a big thing in North America, but almost every house we build in Australia has a "Colorbond" metal roof. If installed properly, they will easily last 50 years.
Thank you! I just did a massive roof on my chicken coop using this same material and every single thing in this video is contradictory to the manufacturer's guidelines for installation. Those areas between the ribs are going to sag with even the slightest snow load bc there is no horizontal bracing. The ribs give it strength in the direction they run, you support it perpendicular to those, same as you would joists of a deck sitting on bracing underneath. Also this is not cheaper by any stretch of the imagination. With just bracing support, you can go up to 2x2 area under a panel, so with the amount of lumber used to go underneath those panels at every rib, you could have just done them 24" OC and then ran the remaining lumber 24" OC perpendicular to the beams. They wouldn't even need to be flush, the 2x4's running horizontal can sit on top of the roof beams and still support the weight of a person from just the panel ridges. And as noted, it is not "as much compression as you want" on the screws, you're only meant to fasten them down so the gasket starts to compress slightly but does not spread out so much it leads to cracking prematurely. I am all for home DIY and I learned everything I needed to build my coop off CZcams but if you're gonna provide instructional videos you gotta get the basics right, especially if the manuf instructions already tell you everything you need to know.
@@MrFathead009 Ive watched a couple metal roof videos and they have put the screws on the pan rather than the ridges. I was told to put them on the ridges and thats what i do , but after watching a few videos i started to question myself. Thank you for clarifying so much information and mistakes made in this video.
I also was questioning the price of how this was built vs being 24" o/c. Seems to me this would be more expensive.
Jeff, i always watch your videos & have learned several things from you, however this was not one of those videos.
Hi Jeff,
I watched you with the tape measure. I used to have one just like it. Either one of these two you will like a TON better.
- Klein Tools 9225 - 25' tape measure.
- Klein Tools 9230 - 30' tape measure.
They have 13' of stand-off, have only real measurements, no metric stuff, AND it has measurements on both the top and bottom of the tape so you can read it overhead, with a double hook so you can also hook it overhead.
They are a little heavier than the one you have, more of a concave in the bow in the tape to give you that much stand-off, a blade that the markings never wear off on, and can take a drop. I bought the 25 because I needed one in a hurry, but you get the 30' because the 30' is just long enough to square up (diagonally) a 2-stall garage.
I actually used the semitransparent fiberglass ones on my shed roof. I should have done what I think you mentioned is ignore standard beam gaps and align for the panels instead though.
makes it easy to trim out the sides and saves a little lumber. Cheers!
I am choosing to use the semi-transparent every other. Took a bit to find one that would mate up with the aluminum rib profile. Hoping it would let in light and cut the cost of the electricity... that I did NOT install. Because I need a permit for that. 😁
Hi Jeff! I appreciate the content you create! I’ve learned a few tips and tricks from you over the past couple of years. I guessing this is probably your first metal roof project.
In the future consider using purlins. Also, the metal suppliers also sell rake trim for the edges, or a 4”x 4” mini corner piece!
Thanks! God bless
Great suggestion!
He literally said they were not going to use Purlins to save on cost. He also has the rafters very close together (as explained) and therefore it has good strength
Cowel sheeting overlapping at the gables and going beneath at the eaves of the roofsheet makes those cedar boards obsolete if not unnecessary, as goes for the messing around with sealant. The purpose of any roofing is to divert water, not to act as an impermeable substrate lest you're building a downpour gathering pool at the top.
Show off! Loved it.
Cheers!
I miss the heavy gauge corrugated aluminum roofing. Finding anything larger than 22g is a nightmare.
I helped my father build a 20 x 30 foot shop on our property in Texas over 30 years ago. It has the same style roof ,only we used graphite shingles instead of metal. That shed is still standing today. It was re-shingled about 10 years ago though. I do believe had we used metal it would have lasted, maybe a little rusted but I have no doubt it would have lasted. However metal roofs don't have the same aesthetics as regular graphite shingles have.
that may be true, but i was trying to find a way to install a roof and stay on a ladder. My goal here was to show folks how to get a great result without the risk of falling off a roof.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I just did a small metal roof like yours. I do have cross members. I use two strips of plywood about 3.5" wide and drive in a screw before it poke thru. Flip the screw head up-side-down and hook it on the edge. 1) I can grab onto the wood, 2) I can put my knee on to carry my weight. 3) you can add few more thread on the plywood for traction.
Such a great video you share with us👍👍👍
So nice of you
You should use ear plugs. That kind of noise will damage your hearing over time.
Curious why you just didn't get the L-shaped eave flashing to run over the top of the sides of the metal roof? I have to believe any snow sitting on that roof now is gonna rot that cedar out. And cedar DOES rot.
it only rots in the summer and by then the snow is gone. Cheers!
Your videos are great! Did you do a build video for this shed?
What a great design! I do not like heights and shingling the shed I built was pretty scary. It was a gable roof with a 4/12 pitch. I am not very tall and even though the shed was only 8 feet wide I couldn't reach the top third from the ladder. 😨😨
Hi There, wanted to get your opinion on using glassroc tile backer for our shower wall. We are using schluter waterproof strips on the corner joints and covering up the places where screws are used. What is your take on the Glassroc tile backer sheets? Should we waterproof over these sheets with red guard all over before tiling or are we good?
So, the cedar boards that you added at the end are just on the side and the front? Otherwise if you put one on the back it would trap all the water and snow on the roof?
The manufacturer's website for that kind of roofing warns against overtightened screws. Which leads to over flattening the rubber gasket and shortening it's life.
yup, and it also tells you not to undertighten so how do you know? best to accept the idea of changing the screws in 20 years!
The manufacturers will say they “utilize a specialized screw gun that’s set to exact speed and torque specifications for specific metal roofing gasket fasteners.” Uh huh, sure they do.
In my history as a career components supplier to the automotive, and aerospace industries, we did have specialized screw guns requiring constant audits and calibration. The tools, and calibration standards cost a fortune, and require certified training. I’ve never witnessed a roofing contractor using that level of equipment, much less when there are ten guys, each with a screw gun.
Finally, since the manufacturer does not provide a torque or speed specification, then I would lean towards flattening the washer without stripping the wood and call it a day.
@@dropndeal that’s a solid answer man! Thank you, so many variables better to understand do the best work/job and move on to the next one
@@justinsomerville3976 You’re welcome! All those years as engineering manager finally paid off😂
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY You'll be lucky if they last 10yrs after cranking them down that tight
punch/drill holes in the metal through the stack of sheets prior to instalilng on the roof, gives you a starter hole and they all look the same. Obviously if you mess up, then at least it will be consistent 🙂
That is very precision work. I would not advise this for homeowners who are building for the first time.
As a woodworker, precision measurements and having symmetrical screw heads is great for woodworking when you don't have a deadline... but as the son of a general contractor and master carpenter, i can tell you carpentry doesn't have the luxury of spending 20 minutes on cutting a dado to within .007 tolerances. And further, when you're wrestling a sheet of corrugated metal you have enough on your mind just trying to keep the edges from slicing your meat hooks open. But you introduce 3 screw holes every 3 feet down a 9 foot sheet of galvanized razor blades and your asking for a gushing thumb artery tourniquet. I know this for a fact cause I have had to apply tourniquets to gushing arterial bleeds from my thumbs on too many occasions.
2x4s 16" oc. 1×4 purlins 2' oc.
Your seams are not screwed down, plus under 3:12 you should have used butyl tape.
But, I m a roofer, and you're a youtuber, and this is just a shed. Carry the hell on😝🤘🏽
Two questions regarding cutting the metal. Did you do that one sheet at a time or was that the whole stack at once.
Secondly, what type of cutting blade did you use, yours looked rather special. The two ways I know off is a fine toothed metal cutting blade, or a regular blade that is put in reverse.
I read all the comments and back in the day before fast internet service.
You had to know a Guy that knows a Guy....
And he would be so busy with work and then He would be force to increase his price to be able to sleep/be off one day a week.
Thanks Jeff.
Might not be Tin Knocker Journeyman Quality/and-or Techniques... However
You give us an idea of what we need to DIY on this and keep our lawnmower outta the elements.❤❤❤
Cheers🎉
Instead of adding addl rafters and lining them up for the screws it's much much easier to just use a skip sheeting method. Set your afters at 16" or 24" centers depending on the loads you anticipate in your area and then just lay down a 5/4 material across the rafters wherever you want a row of screws, again could be 24" to 36" according to your roof manufacture specs. Much much much easier.
I do that when I build sheds for my livestock and tool sheds. Saves time, effort and $$.
My thoughts too he did mention using less material but it looks like he used more material doing it his way
I may have missed this, but did you overlap the panels? If so do you screw through both? Also when you were sealing the edge you could see a raised gap between panels How do you tackle that? Thanks again for another great video.
You do overlap one portion of the panel. As for sealing, I don't believe he sealed anywhere other than the sides. With an angled roof like this, water shouldn't be getting inside, but the wood will be a big enough gap for water to suck in.
Well... I always just use my regular blade for cutting that metal roofing... it cuts it really clean (if using a decent blade) and the carbide leaves it looking great without heating issues. (If it rips through nail impeded lumber, than sheet metal is a breeze. But a higher tooth count might be more preferable as it just makes the edge smoother.)
I also like to place the sheet metal over sacrificial ply/osb. It gives it a perfectly smooth edge (well, as smooth as 14ga can be lol) without the burrs.
I keep one 6-½" saw that is used for thick aluminum, and it also does great for the sheet metal as well. I just have a cheap 40 tooth diablo on it, and its done more cuts than I can recall.
I'd like to see a blade made that has like 60 teeth that have more width, and a type of friction (alum oxide?) For the kerf. That way the teeth cut the steel, and it also sort of smooths it out preventing any burrs via user error.
Cheers to that idea!
Doing my metal roof, wasn't allowed to cut with a blade like that which voids the warranty as stray sparks could penetrate the coating resulting in rust spots from what I was told. The powered cutter was like snips so a scissor type action instead.
do't care the off cut is extending padst the structure so a little rust is not a problem.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY It is gonna look like shi* but ok ... ;p Cuting roofing sheets like that is the bigest sin of a roofer.
the roofing is not even visible except to the house behind me. In time if it gets a little rusty a quick touch up will solve that. Cheers!
how tall can the 4x4 posts be in the deck blocks? I want to build a platform for 4x8foot shed on slope that drops abit more than 2 feet.
Made it 2 minutes into the video and have been trying to find where i can get a pair of those safety glasses ever since. 😎 lol I need to upgrade from my pair of squints. 😑
I love your channel but I’m really nervous about using that technique with the skilsaw. If you get kickback from the saw, are your fingers still not anywhere close to the blade?
I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’. I asked this question before the end of your video, I see you didn’t use any type of plywood, so that’ll be what I’m doing. I did install some purlins though, 2x3’s
Roof screws!
1. Do not overtighten.
2. Next time use a stringline to get the screws in a straight line.
it would be impossible ti install a roof like this and use a stringline. this design is to keep people from needing to get on the roof in the first place. A string line would require you to finish the install and climb up on your roof.
Hello Jeff don't take short cuts build the roof strong, everyone should be able to stand on a roof they made
Hi, Jeff! If some european sees that you are using an abrasive disk to cut metal roofing, they will cut you in a pieces.) For that job, you need to use nibblers.
FELICIDADES ES UD UNA PERSONA MUY ESFORZADA Y EXPERIMENTADA ….. ESTA NOCHE VI VARIOS CAPÍTULOS DE SU CONSTRUCCIÓN DE UN COBERTIZO Y. APRENDÍ MUCHO PERO UD DEBE TRAER UN JOVEN QUD LE AYUDE. XQ LEPUEDE DAR UN ATAQUE AL CORAZÓN…. LOQUE no se si el material que uso de pared puede durar uchos años…..??
I thought the screws were to go on top through the raised ribs so water runs off them? And yes I know they have rubber washers but still think it best to be on top of the raised ribs?
you can if you want. but that is why they use perpendicular strapping. as well as rafters.
What's the best compound when the sheetrock is all out of whack for filling. In other words to bring a level of one wall to the next one is like an eighth of an inch difference
That caulk joint is the weak link. Why not drip edge
It's just a shed!
Hey Jeff where is the full build of this shed, I can’t seem to find it 🤷♂️
So Jeff, I hired a roofing pro to help me put on a metal roof.. He made it really clear and important to not cut the metal roofing material with a grinder or metal blade like you did. You are supposed to use a "nibbler" which squeezes off the cut material and seals the open cut edge as it goes.. This prevents rusting and erosion of the cut edges..
That's my new excuse for not cutting the grass (I can't today Honey their building a shed)
One question please: The screws you used to fasten the sheet into the wooden part, can't water come in from this place?. Meaning, where the hole of the screw is?
Your hurricane ties are on backwards. :) 13:01
I did a shed rebuild a week ago. Beams, then 1/4in sheathing, followed by tar, then the metal.
Is it weird at the end I was thinking "damn that a nice bead!" lol was so clean
On rafters or amount thereof to avoid wooden purlins.....you can buy metal purlin in various lengths. It would make a job like this very easy by only using rafters at 18-24 inches. I only mention it because I'm basically doing the same thing right now. I'm in Florida though....we don't get snow like up there in the evil empire of Canuckia. 🙂
I did this to avoid the need to get up on the roof while installing. perlins work well form aesthetics and airflow. if you are not worried about working on a roof then do it.
Have you built a screened in porch? Wuth the walls stopped at a norm handrail.
Hi Jeff, I have a question regarding the screws in the roof. Many years ago I built horse stables for an old farmer. He told me to put the roof screws on the high spots of the tin, as water will find it's the way in otherwise. You did it on the low part. Could you please explain why?
water looks for the route of least resistance. on a sloped roof there is no issue. especially when dealing with a shed and rot a roof with any materials that can be damaged by occasional intrusion.
I agree and think the roof screws should be in the high spots.
@@mae7398 correct, screws ALWAYS go on the ribs of any metal roof. The ribs are the only structural part of a metal roof.
@@remodz6385 --- wrong: screws go on the high points ONLY on corrugated metal roofing ( always - if you put the screws in the valley it will not only not seal and leak, it will form a dam and hold leaves and trash in the valley making the leaks worse ) - on metal roofing panels ( what this guy is using ) the screws go on the flats - the only place you screw through the ribs is on the overlaps, and then you use a short screw which doesn't reach the purlins and simply pulls the two sheets tight to each other - if you screw through the ribs, it will pull them downward and deform which will cause the flats to pucker and rise off the purlins - plus you can't get the screw gaskets to seal properly - the other thing with metal roofs, they should ALWAYS be installed on purlins running across the rafters and NEVER simply screwed to the rafters - a roof built like this one can't support weight between the rafters - if properly installed over properly spaced purlins ( 24 inches or less apart ) you can walk all over a rib panel roof ( you really can't walk on a corrugated roof no matter how it is fastened )
another thing different in corrugated and rib panel roofing is how they install on the overlap - corrugated is designed to overlap two hills ( high points ) so a 3 foot sheet will NOT cover 3 feet but is several inches less - rib panels ( like he is using ) is made with different style ribs on the edges - one is an overlap rib and the other an underlap - when properly installed, it forms a waterseal with an anti-syphon air gap and will not leak - there is no need to overlap an entire rib as he did, so he lost 25% of the coverage it was designed to give ( should give a full 3 foot )
Bones is correct.
Why you would waste your time trimming the edges and caulking it. They make matching corner flashing which cost almost nothing extra for this size project and install in 10 minutes with a couple extra screws and a gasket
Hi Jeff. Hope all is well with you and family. Say hello to Michelle and Matt.
Will do! Cheers larry!
So you don't need overhangs to protect the sides from water?
nope. just a little care and a good sealant. I use better technology up there than most folks do when buildng a shower.
Hey man I'm starting my painting business. Anything you recommended to get more clients calling
Maybe I'll see the answer to this in the completed build, but why cut the roof panels at all? Seems like it would be nice for your tiki bar design to have some roof overhang, no? Or just in general, to push the rain and snow a little farther away from the structure?
the roofing comes in 12' lengths. That is a lot of overhang since our roof ended up being 9' in total.
Did you get a shed kit? If so where?
Could something like this support solar panel and racks on top? Any idea of the weight limit for this type of roof?
not engineered so not sure. I would think I would want 2x6 rafters if I was going to be working up there and installing panels. Cheers!
----- not as built - if you use purlins and rib panel ( not corrugated ) it's a simple do with the weight limit determined by the dimension, span, and spacing of your rafters and purlins - on a shed this size, 2x6 rafters 2 foot on center with 2x4 purlins every 2 foot will hold up as much solar as you could manage to get on it with nary an issue
I own a condo and I have a water leak coming into my living room. The roof is the culprit, the acoustic texture they used failed!! water entered the Unit. What's a good material(s) that can be used to stop the roof leaks? Thanks, great video(s)...
leaks from the outside have to be managed from the outside. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY what are the best materials?
Have to say it would be easier to clean the moss off of than shingles.
Cheers to that Katie. The suppliers will cut to fit and deliver in just 2 weeks. Way more easier than i ever thought it was going to be to get materials.
great video as usual. Thanks. I don't understand why you didn't extend the metal sheet on sides and front and back (instead of cutting them so short) and this way both get water protection for the top exterior trims as well avoid all the caulking probably. Also I wouldn't plug the opening between 2x4's. In summer you want the hot hair flow out of the shed. But you will want to cover it with metal latice to protect against mouse which is much more harmful than possible wasps in my opinion.
I live in the north so the heat is less of an issue. I agree if this was in the south making that change would be beneficial.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY in San Diego we use the blocking but with 1.5" holes covered in hardware fabric inside. It allows the building to breathe while still getting the bug barrier
I was rabbit holing just now on the idea of breathers and rafters (as one is wont to do on a Sunday morning toke sesh) and i found some smartypants came up with a design for breather hole caps. If you Amazon "20Pcs Air Vents 53mm Circular Soffit Vent Stainless Steel Round Vent Mesh Hole Louver for Kitchen Bathroom Cabinet Wardrobe" you'll find them... they're interesting but though claiming to be steel look plastic-y and don't look durable to me... But OH BOY what a treat the description is! This is grade A nonsensicalism:
"[Material] This porcelain white air vent is made of stainless steel, durable, and strong ability to withstand gravity, not only oxidation resistance, but also more beautiful installation effect.
[Design] Air Vent hole with honeycomb design, exquisite round holes conform to the breathable design, small round holes can be dust-proof and not easy to block.
[Environment] Circular mesh can make the wind easily flow into the spaces where you are staying, it will giving you a fresh and odorless life and work environment."
Jeff, I have a friend that manufactures the finest deck and wood stain in the business. He is traveling to Canada this week and was wondering if there was any way to possibly get a meeting with you and show you his stain line. Stain and seal experts is the name of his line. Cheers.
best bet is to reach out by email and arrange to meet during construction week in Vegas!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks Jeff, I will pass that along. Which email do you prefer?
Suggestions not to put the screws in the last flat area until you overlap that way your peices lay flat and then screw that seem. I know it's a shed but any leak is a bad leak
Are you over lapping 2 ridges?
While I understand the company only warranties putting the screws in the low part of The Valley on sheet metal, I will never understand really why that is. Common sense tells you that putting a screw in the low part of the metal where the water runs will eventually leak. It has been my experience that the rubber gaskets on those screws degrade over time and you will start having leaks in 10 years or less. Traditionally the screws were always put on the peaks, ask any old farmer. I get that it voids the warranty, but I would rather do that and put the screw in the peak of the metal knowing that it won't leak instead of depending on a rubber gasket that I know will be degraded by the sun over time, and begin to allow water in. what are your thoughts?
:O 1:40 throwing that blade. Those things can chip! SAFETY SQUINTS ENGAGE!
Why the giant gaps on those overlap seams??? Square? Confusing, very confusing. Are you going to walk on the roof? All those rafters. could have had less and used blocking (Screw holds) across whole shed. No overhang metal, which leaves wood below it dry? One off design.
For small jobs like this, your local supplier may have a few sheets in a discount bin. Over ordered, or a scratch/dent sale and under 1/2 the cost of ordering it.
It was still very affordable, but great idea to ask!
If Bob Vila and Bobcat Goldthwait had a love child.
Ohh my!!! Where's your ear protection?
I would think that overhangs are the thing to do...
There's just one thing i noticed that i was wondering about. Don't you want to lap the uphill sheet of roofing over the downhill?
Nevermind. I just remembered you went less than one sheet deep.
cheers!
I don't know why but the 9 inch on center just bothers me aha. I would of just done 16 OC with 1x3 strapping probably comes to the same cost save on 2x4 buy a couple 1x3 . I get why you did it but based on your DIY audience and just my experience helping out people who have not much experience your way would confuse beginners. Strapping is more forgiving. Appreciate the videos. Cheers from Quebec
this system allows folks to install without actually getting on the roof.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY that's true hadn't thought of that ! I'm still young I see strapping And think good I can climb on the roof easily.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY hmm..? you can still install without getting on the roof with or without straps.
can't reach the screws in the middle if you add strapping
He keeps saying he did this roof this way so u wouldn't have to get on the roof.
HOW, do u fasten the center of the roof after your reach??
Isn't a bundle of strapping opposite the rafters cheaper than a 2x4 every 9" and more sturdy ?????
not really. this design is to make it possible to complete the install without getting on the roof.
Does anyone know the best way to attach these standing seam panels to a steel awning frame?
this is not standing seam roofing. The screws came with the metal roofing.Cheers!
Sheet metal tek screws
You sir, are a DemiGod. I love your videos and how you don't hide your mistakes (which are inevitable), but chose instead to share them- they are some of the greatest learning tools!
"Hyah ha ha! Perfect every time."
Hey Jeff I can tell your newer to doing metal roofs and I am not a pro but some major Canadian winter issues you are showing. one use rake and drip edge pieces saves on relying on cocking. second your screws should be on the rib not the flats for a roof. Do not screw the washer flat your killing your seal just make it tight enough the washer no longer moves. And last pre drill your holes it will save you so much time and frustration. I hope this is help full to you as your videos have helped me in the past.
I'll stick to the less then half the price shingles ... my house has same shingles for over 30years and got at least 15 more years in them..
not to be rude but the metal was the same price as shingles. Cheers!
---- several factors you are ignoring :
* shingles need a substrata ( plywood, etc ) to be attached to
* shingles take a lot more time, labor, and skill to install
* shingles aren't good for less that a 3 1/2 pitch
* shingles weight a ton ( literally ) more
@@bonesrhodes3762 yes true...but a shingle roof is quite and much more durable then a tin can...dont rust either ...for flat roofs u would use rubber roof welded together for over 50 years of life span and again stronger and quieter then metal..
Let's not forget when u say plywood cost more , on a house u kneed plywood under the metal roof also ...there goes ur logic...
@@goovitoo ----- yes, shingles are much quieter than metal roofs - but they deteriorate under weather and UV - and will not last any longer than a metal roof 29 gauge or heavier - in fact, if kept free of debris it will last twice what a shingle roof will
any metal roof used for a flat roof would have to be a commercial grade seamless - I've had large commercial building with both built-up and torch-down roofs - both were replaced with metal roofs, but were converted from flat to single-slopes first - I got tired of the cost and up-keep on the others
now why would you want to put plywood under a metal roof ? plywood is NOT a suitable substrata to lay a metal roof over UNLESS you also have purlins under or over the plywood - plywood just will not hold the fasteners properly and with OSB you might as well just use tape to try and fasten it down - besides, with 2X purlins you can add up to 1 1/2 inches of insulation ( either rigid or batts ) between the purlins which greatly increases the ability to heat or cool the building and greatly reduces the noise
👍👍
you put your metal rafter brackets on BACKWARDS, the 2 flip ins rest on your header, , Why did you put a raised edge wooden board around the edge? that will hold leaves rain snow etc.. everything damp on the roof and NOT shed water, the caulking will not last but possibly 5 years tops. the metal should be 1/2 inch OVER the edge all the way around AND have a metal drip edge ...having the metal the to edge all the way around with a drip edge so debris blows off, you have built a giant tray,,, you will be lucky to get 5 years before the roof rots all the way around the edge--- I have never seen a roof built like this? Sorry just trying to warn the next guy starting out
@george8706 he did that to make you ask questions 😂
Jeff I’m a long time supporter of your channel and love your stuff but this roof pained me. I understand you targeting home owners but I don’t believe you saved them any money. Keep it simple yes about 10 1x4 or 2x4 for strapping but the layout become much simpler for home owner to understand. Steel roofs are incredibly simple on a roof like this, let’s not over complicate it especially when lumber has come way back down 🎉
i designed this so they wouldn't have to crawl on the roof to install screws.
I'm still curious HOW u fasten the center of the roof without getting on the roof, u can only reach so far?
Attach the sheets 1 at a time, installing the rafters as you go.
Oh no sheet metal. I’m waiting for electrical tape ;)
Great point!
Best practice when installing a metal roof is to pre drill all sheets in the pile so you get a straight lines across the roof. And pre manufacturers specs they recommend putting the screws on the ribs not the flat surface this will lock each sheet together and puts the fastener at a spot where it less likely to leak over time
correct. that also require perpendicular framing and the ability to get up on the roof to do the install. This approach does not. I am not interested in best practices at all times. Sometimes a little common sense will get a great result without the risk of falling off a roof. Cheers!
--- could you cite us a manufacturer of rib panel roofing that recommends screwing through the ribs and not on the flats ? ---- they don't except on corrugated style metal roofing and recommend placing screws through the ribs that overlap only with the panels screwed on the flats ( usually with one screw through the flat on both sides of the rib )
As a designer, and inspector , I have so many issues with this build.
Sorry, you make great videos , however when people copy this incorrect method it makes it difficult as we have to fail inspections on site and requires addition cost and effort for the homeowner.
First the exposed fasteners is not rated for that low of slope design. Most manufactures state 3/12 min slope. A asphalt roll sheathing membrane would be more suitable for this application.
Second , perpendicular support (strapping or sheathing) as per most manufactures instructions
Third, horrible detail to caulk a pressure treated end cap . Water will sit and rot the wood. They make metal roof closure strips that are sealed using correct byutl strips.
Fourth, drip edge should be installed
Fifth, top closure for the steel .
Thanks for your concern, however since this shed is not going to be inspected I was able to build it and save almost $1000 in materials that you just described that are not important in a temporary shed structure. Manufacturers recommendations are for permanent dwellings, I have no concern that this will last 50 years. Cheers!
I'm with u.
It got me he had his sides how ever many inches above the roof, then caulking it, that bothered me.
They make "L" flashing just for the edges which probably same price or cheaper then his 5/4, I think that's what he put on.
Plus, that's more maintenance maintaining the caulk and paint.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I understand that a permit may not be required, it doesn’t mean it shall not meet code! However as you are educational based you tube channel, wouldn’t be better to show proper ways to construct vs teaching poor building techniques to the general public?
Let's find out if it still stands 50 years later
"5/4 board, which is actually an inch thick." I swear I could hear a European's head imploding at this line.
right!
LMAO
MLB hot stove
Why is it so difficult to follow the videos in proper sequence
why are you using a cutting disc? use a cold cut steel blade so you dont ruin the sheetmetal
the cut edge is not going to be seen, soo......
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY still will ruin the cut edge, making it easier to rust. Using a cutting disc also sends sparks flying, that can potentially ruin the surface/paint, burn a small piece of metal in the surface which will rust and cause streaking.
if i eat some caulking, will it increase my life span 25 years??
Only one of you will be here in 50 years and the winner is the roof
works for me. Cheers!
50$? Where do you live 😂 it cost me 50$ for 9 pieces of 2x6x8’ to build a short wall in my basement