Testing Woodworkings Most Dangerous Techniques
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2024
- I Tested Woodworkings Most Dangerous Tool
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I finally found a 16" radial arm saw to try some of the insane tests from the manufacturers user manual in the 1960's
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Cool, where are the $60 safety glasses I ordered months ago?
I Love your videos and channel 🩶
May I suggest using a clamp to hold the piece against the fence instead of your hand for the bevel cut, so you can stand farther away from the blade and off of it's path if it decides to do a Mad Max boomerang on you.
Can u make a custom chess board
It’s my favorite game to play
Better start the clean up and spruce up on the saw lol your at 15k
"Nope. No no no no nope." Glad you stopped. I was fully puckered and I wasn't even in the shop.
I laughed so hard at this lol. Good one
I'm fully puckered and I haven't even watched the video.
Yup. Me too.
Quick question.... Are we sure Peter is a fan, and not someone who despises you? LOL 😄
That is 100% a fair and valid question lol, also is he possibly the beneficiary on the life insurance or in contact with whoever is XD
No truer questions or statements were ever fucking written!!! THIS MACHINE IS SCARY AS HELL - even in just the mind, let alone reality!!
Growing up this was the first benchtop saw my dad bought. I started using it when i was 14. Maybe it's just due to my experience with it, but i don't find it that scary. I never did any gut cut style cutting...
I was trained on a saw that size in the 1980s in my cabinet making class and again in my wood technology classes. My instructor kept stressing, "never bend your elbow when using a radial arm saw”. Keep your elbow joint in your arm locked and pull the blade back by rotating your torso. That prevents the saw from running away with you and lurching toward you. The second safety rule with it is to never cross your arms. If you keep your arms from crossing, it helps keep your other hand from getting in line with the cut and keeps your hand attached to your body. I still use this rule with sliding compound miter saws. My instructors also warned us to only use the radial arm saw for crosscuts and leave the rip cuts to the table saw. All three of my instructors at two different colleges had all three of these rules in place.
I am 66 now, when I was a kid, starting at 14-15, I worked for my uncle who built apts. we would use such a saw for prep work. 2 by blocks, posts, various sized headers (from 2x4 headers to 2x12 headers) and such. Unc would have a list for me every morning. I miss those days, it was work, but it was fun. If you know what I mean.
He’s gonna hurt himself with that limp arm pose 😂
You are missing parts that make the saw a lot safer. The large hole on the front of the blade guard holds a rod with anti-kickback pawls. There also should be a guard in the rear that holds the material down which greatly reduces climb and kick-back as you feed sheet stock in. I wouldn't ever feed a rip cut without the rear hold down guard; the way you did it was pretty dangerous.
Was just gonna say that , mine still has them
I came to the comments looking for this. The anti-kickback pawls are missing. And on my 6.5 Black and Decker (about 75 year old tool [Green and Red]) the blade guard is adjustable. It can be 'tilted' forwards and back so you don't get blasted with dust / debris.
Sorry I will keep my table saw and 12" sliding miter, thanks. This saw died a very necessary and timely death, IMO.
I was just commenting on how there is supposed to be something that I thought was called a claw! I was so close on the name lol
My Craftsman RAS had extra guards over the blade. Yours must be missing some.
This video is just 24 minutes of anxiety, so many squirrely moments. Def a machine that'll never be in my shop that's for sure.
I thougt i was The only one😂
I have always wanted one but seeing these videos makes me never want to even be around one.
I'd buy a Shop Smith before this death trap. Geeze, too sketchy.
@@mromutt look up brian weekley, he understands how to use the saw properly. this video is a waste of time as he threw it up for views without truly learning the saw.
I have a 12" craftsman, I would love to have a 16", I also agree with these saws being to dangerous for beginners. my high school woodshop class had one and our instructor had it OFF LIMITS to everyone but advanced class
My father has a 12" Craftsman radial and I have a 90 degree scar on my left arm from it due to a ripping accident. Blade grabbed the oak board he was ripping and shot it at me. I somehow got my arm between it and my head or it could have been a lot worse. I still don't know how it didn't break my arm. Far as I know, he hasn't used that saw for ripping wood since and I'm VERY careful of the direction a saw blade is travelling when cutting.
"advanced class" of 16 years olds with 16" death blades... FML... old school days didn't care about safety
We had one in my shop class too and our instructor paid ZERO attention to anything... I used that thing all the time, freeken awesome!
Yeah I grew up using a craftsman 12”.
@@cjamesfox pretty sure advanced means more experience aka older students not 16 year olds
Assuming that this is a 3-phase machine (if I'm mistaken then ignore the rest of this) then you could wire it up to a VFD which will give you lots of benefits:
- Slower ramp-up start (saw will no longer want to "jump" towards you on start up)
- Option to decrease rpm's of blade (may benefit you when making deep cuts in hardwood)
- and perhaps the most useful: option to apply "braking forces" on the blade to more quickly stop it once shut off.
...
All of these can be programmed to various settings on a VFD. I think the ability to turn your 3-minute spin-down into 10 seconds would be worth the VFD purchase alone. For both safety and convenience. Loved the video! Old machines are sexy.
My father had a giant old radial arm saw in his commercial woodworking shop for 20+ years (he made wood windows and doors) and it was pretty much a single task tool, for cross cutting giant rough milled slabs of wood to length, before running through the thickness planer. It just sat on a bench at the back of the warehouse, right between huge racks for lumber storage and I don't think he ever messed with any setting on it ever, except when changing the blade between sharpening, because it was never used for precision. That side of the shop also had the shaper, so I guess it was the "watch your damn fingers!" zone
Helpful hint, always loosen the nut in the same direction that the teeth go. Tighten against the teeth
Elegantly simple yet very useful tip, thanks for sharing.
I do run a radial arm saw every day. Mine is a 14" original saw, the most productive tool in my shop. After I assemble a cut list, I mark out stop locations, turn the saw on, and keep feeding it material until the cutlist is finished. I never take it out of its 90 degree orientation, I'll go so far as to cut the long dimension on the radial arm saw then switch to a miter saw for all the angles. When used in the sort of production environment I'm describing, I find these safe, efficient, and more enjoyable to use than any alternative I've found.
My dad has one of these in his woodshop in the garage...I only remember him using it for crosscutting..but even as a kid I was always intimidated by it just because of the sound and the amount of airflow it put out..
I bought a 10" Craftsman in about 1975 and used it for many years. When you do rip cuts you rotate the guard so that the leading edge is barely above your wood. That covers the most dangerous part of the blade. A hose from the dust elbow on the top of the guard is run into a dust hood at the back of the saw attached to a shop vac. That gets 90+ % of the dust. It was cleaner to use than most mitre saws today.
Straight cut off, mitres, compound bevels, in and out rips were all easy and safe.
I did use a dado head on straight dados but would never even think of using a moulding head. Scared the you know what out of me.
I finally got rid of it only because a table saw worked better for what I was doing then and I didn't have room for both.
But it was a very useful tool.
Took a bit of TLC to keep it square though. Adjusted that quite a lot. But the adjustments were easy and straighforward.
I've actually seen machines like this being modified with "primitive breaks". Essentially make a hole in the "blade guard", weld on a threaded pipe. Take a durable cylindrical piece of rubber which fits into the pipe and use that as the "break caliber" - and then use a screw/cap/plunger - whatever you choose to apply it towards the blade. Just be "fairly gentle" when applying break force in a place which was not designed for it - and remember to disengage it before stating it up again. (You can also make a spring-loaded mechanism which automatically disengages when you stop pushing it - however that's a bit more involved 😀)
Did you mean brake?
DEFINITELY GET A ELECTRIC BRAKE FITTED! Had a similar saw in the place I did my apprenticeship, only used for cross cutting batons before machining down.
Yeah, just for reference the legal time for a bladed machine to come to a halt in the UK is less than 10 seconds :)
With a 16" blade the force of a DC brake making it come to a stop would likely unscrew the nut holding the blade on because the blade isn't pinned to the arbour, so the inertia of the blade wants to continue spinning and thus unscrews the nut. That said, you could probably adjust the brake to stop in 10-15 seconds or so which wouldn't cause so much strain as stopping in 2 or 3 seconds, still much better than 5 minutes.
@@WoodMachinist As long as it can just slightly slow it without trying to stop it that would make a huge difference in its safety and use. Kind of like brakes on a bike, you can use them to add just a slight friction to take a little moment out without just clamping down and stopping like you would do going down hill. I don't know if you would get that kind of adjustment out of an electric brake addon but if you can I think thats the way to go.
When ripping, you turn the blade guard down so it's just above the wood being ripped. That way it doesn't chuck so much wood at you and in later versions they had an anti-kickback tool that was on the guard.
Malecki is trying to show this saw as best as he can but these details make this saw less dangerous though
I appreciate this. I wont be using it for that function tho haha
I love your work and channel and subscribed long ago! But. Sorry , even if you don’t use this function there are many, many, many foolish people. These people will take what you as an experienced wood work shows and assume it’s okay, “ John” did it! Please be a good example. I mean talk the line but play safe under the top story. I personally own Dewalt and Delta/Rockwell RAS , I love them and are very careful when using them.
@@chrisdzisiak7540The reality is that no one is responsible for the safety of another adult except for the adult themselves. If someone chooses to be a moron, that is their fault and only theirs. It is not up to John, you or anyone else to keep people from doing dumb shit.
@@JohnMaleckiUnscrewedThe problem is that by not showing it being done with common sense and the correct tools for safety, you are making the saw seem like more of a death trap than it actually is. Even if you don’t plan on using it to rip, you ought to at least try it properly. Perhaps you should get someone with more expertise to help, like you did with the shop-smith tool.
I own a radial arm saw, I use it all the time to rip and crosscut. I don’t own a miter saw and table saw, I don’t have the space to have both of those in my garage.
When I was 17 (back in the 80's) my 1st "propper" job was at a place called Bate Welding and Engineering Supplies. My job was to sharpen TCT saw blades. The biggest ones were for British Rail and they were between 36" and 42". That must have been a monster machine that they went on.
What sort of machine do you think they would have been used on?
@@James-dv1df Something that huge had to be something like a giant mill right? I cant imagine what else could use them. I would love to see a blade that big in person but never want to meet the machine it goes in haha
Back in High School woodshop class ( early 80's) we had this same saw. Only allowed to crosscut on it. Can you imagine a bunch of high school teens using this beast. Thankfully no one ever injured! I had grown up using a 10 inch RAS so was used to it but many others were complete newbies. That blade would spin forever. We would wedge a long 1x2 piece of oak using that small black knob on the front as a fulcrum against the saw plate as a brake no less - Just crazy!. We also had a shaper - NO One not even the teacher used it - can't imagine how terrifying that must have been. Thanks Mr LeCluse if your out there for keeping us all safe.
23:30 take the blade off and spin it through 360 so the wires on the other side of the carrier!!
Then you can use the full slide rail.
180 degrees, actually. Derp!😅
@@bjornolson6527 180 on x axis + 180 on a axis= 360? :)
But yes your correct.
Hi John , I ve been a carpenter for over 30 years, I've used many radial arms saws, they are great for cross-cutting and doing dato cut . a big 16" saw is good if you work in a mill or a wood yard . all of those other features are great but should never been done . I like using the saw for the cross cut instead of doing the cut on a table saw
The blade spinning endlessly is a good indicator that the spindle bearings are in need of new grease. Great video John, I think these are excellent for crosscutting.
My grandfather has a 10" RAS, and got me a 10" one as well. I use it for crosscut only, as I have other tools for the other cuts. I know he has used his for ripping, and has suggested I try it for ripping also. But I have had thoughs similar to what you experienced, and also have a nice table saw,so I use it instead. So much easier for set up, and safer for usage.
9:20 when I saw you get that rag so close to the blade to showcase the airflow, I just started sweating when I thought about how it could get caught on the blade and pulled in. Or maybe I am overthinking this and have watched final destination one too many times
Think everyone thought that :) huge ass blades or machinery and loose cloth gives me the willys.
I was staring at that tail intently as it whipped back and forth😅😅😅😅😅😅
I just watched you make several errors with your RAS
1. Read the Mister Sawdust book before you use the saw.
2. That saw needs a much bigger/longer table. I use a 3 piece table, 2 pieces behind the fence puts you further from the blade for most cuts. Move the the extra table piece in front only when you need the extra width
3. Make your cross cuts from the left. Hold the stock with your left hand and the saw with the right hand.
4. Throughly inspect the machine and install the missing parts. Anti kick-back bar...
5. When ripping rotate the blade guard to just above the piece being fed into the blade. Adjust the anti-kickback bar to the material thickness. Use a much longer push stick shaped like a tablesaw push stick that fits between blade and fence.
6. All tools require the operator to be familiar with operations. I recently replaced a sliding miter saw with a 1956 Dewalt RAS and I love it. It sits closer to the wall and makes perfect cross cuts and dados.
Great tool you have acquired I look forward to more videos as you become proficient with this tool.
Keep up the great content.
I ran a 20" in a millshop for years. Beautiful piece of equipment! Wish I had space for a larger one in my own shop.
Back in '70s I worked for a lumber yard. We used a big 16" radial arm saw for cutting framing lumber. We had very few accidents and when we did we found a bit of crazy glue and a buffing wheel buffed everything right out.
I studied technical theatre in college. Our shop had a huge old time beefy radial arm like this. Everything that came off our bench ran through it. We, quite literally, would have it running for hours. If you can master the radial arm, you are going to have SUCH a productivity boost (especially with batches of goods.) You can do joinery, dado stacks, and quickly bulk out your framing members (I recall we'd use our's to cut 4-5 2 by 4's in one pass.) you simply can't beat it. Never overlook the radial arm! Wish more modern shops used them. We had 18 year old tap dancing acting students running one first day of class haha they're simple but frightening.
Seems like a lot of potential that comes with a lot of learning curve to get the most out of these *safely*
This saw looks like a lot of fun. And your dust extraction system really satisfies my tism.
I use a 14” radial at work daily to rip plywood for export crates. The way I get around the potential kick back is to use a sacrificial board to feed the one I’m cutting through the cut. Also when ripping you can tip your blade guard down so that most of the duct comes out the shoot and not straight back at you.
On the vertical rip, you also have to remember that it was standard practice for woodworkers to wear a dress shirt and tie. Imagine doing that cut (or any of them for that matter) with basically an improvised noose around your neck 😬
Nice to see those still in action. Radial arm saws are one of the most versatile tools out there, and not that dangerous if you know what you're doing.
I've had a 10" Craftsman radial arm since the early 1970's - still runs fine. One thing to mention, the blade guard is adjustable. The front edge of the guard (many have a point at that part) should be set to barely clear the wood and it will keep it from throwing all that sawdust at you.
At work we have an original saw 20" radial arm saw. It's a much newer model. But it's a pleasure to use. We cut a lot of larger timbers with it.
I own a 1965 Craftsman 10 inch radial arm saw that I got from my father and he kept the manual for it all those years that he had it. The craziest cut I saw in the book was a cove cut, essentially you're swinging the saw blade side to side on the pivot of the motor to cove out a depression in the face of the piece of wood. There was also an attachment on the back side of the motor to turn it into a shaper and a kind of drill press... no thanks, still gives me the shivers even thinking about doing either of those things.
I have personal used one of theses and it is terrifying. We used it to cut pressure treated 6x6x16’ down, it would go right through one of them like a hot knife butter. That saw wouldn’t just cut a finger off it would take ur whole arm off and u wouldn’t even know it.
I used to use that saw in our shop when I was doing construction. The shop was an old cabinet shop and that Delta cut smooth.
I have a 10" and I love it for cross cuts. I'd absolutly pickup a 16" for cutting 4x4s in one pass.
Liked for a tear down video.
Been working table, slide miters and hand saws for 15+ years, your brave.
I saw that final image/diagram was thinking to myself no way he is going to try that!? I wasn't even in the shop and my heart rate was through the roof just watching this video.
I have a radial arm saw and it’s beyond sketchy. Terrifyingly awesome. I love it. I only use it when I’m ok with losing an arm or 2
I remember we had one of these in my high school shop class. That thing was genuinely terrifying to most people, but I just used it like I'd been around it all my life. These things are so huge and clunky, that its really hard to actually injure yourself with one of these unless you start reaching around the blade and stuff. Seeing that gut cut in the manual though is pretty funny, but also exactly something I feel like you would see in the 60's. I definitely would never want to try that at all.
We had a pair of these in my high school wood shop. The first month of the class was just safety demonstrations and tests and stuff, but even with all that, I don't know that I'd trust a teenager with tools like this. Also, I really didn't appreciate how dangerous tools like this are until years later, and all we did were cross cuts and miters.
Dude... I built so many projects on a 10" Craftsman radial saw in my younger days. Did rip cuts, cross cuts, even raised panes with a shaper attachment. I'm luck to be alive. LOL
I miss having my radial arm saws. I have had 3 over the years. My 12" craftsman was a strong work horse. The 14" delta was under powered for hard woods, unless I put a 12" blade on it. And my 16" delta very much like the one you got was a great saw. Mine had a blade break on it. It was just a lever that I would push on to slow the blade spinning down faster
Hey ... the head isn't aligned to the rail. Seriously. Do a proper alignment of the head to the rail. I have the same saw and I can literally hear it binding. Not much, but it is whacked! Edit!!! I forgot the best part! No brake, and the power switch is not under your finger. 😮 so cool. Great video Malevki
New to the channel. I like what I see. Thanks for rocking the SOCOM colors on the wall !
I been seeing a ton of these 10" on marketplace in my area, 50-100 bucks...I'm getting one just for half laps an such...there is a huge advantage to owning one, and cheap..all the ones I see are craftsman...use to be a time they was everywhere, in school to... But for joinery it's a game changer ..
We had a De Walt 20" radial saw for cutting extruded aluminium box section, 5.5" square. We would occasionally cut mitres, but 99% of the time it was straight cuts. We had 16" and 13" diameter blades too. Never had any accidents on it, at all. We used 13" mitre saws with 13" blades for cutting aluminium too. We would fit at least 2 emergency stop buttons on every machine, just to be safe.
Used one almost exactly like that to cross cut 2x4s for crates. Except we added a dynamic brake and a hand trigger to start it. Never thought twice about using it
I grew up using a radial arm saw with my Dad and inherited it eventually. I built a big cabinet system for my laundry room using it with a wobble dado blade. It's a wonder I didn't lose a body part. Sold the thing shortly after and bought a table saw. It was a cool tool for some cuts, but a table saw and a miter saw are better options.
The 16 inch radial arm saws shown in Mike's video, and this one, are the only two that I have ever seen.........I want this saw.
Genuinely anxious watching this.
This is so amusing. I grew up with a radial arm saw. I was using that before using regular power saws.
When I was a senior in HS (late '60's, early '70's) I worked in my grandfather's woodshop. I think that was back when a "miter saw" was a u shaped wood structure that you put your 2X4 wood in and cut it with a handsaw. The 2 pieces of equipment that were most important in his shop were the table saw and the radial arm saw. What you're not showing with the radial arm, at least in our shop, every task on that saw had its own jig and, if there wasn't one existing, we made them. I don't ever remember being scared of the saw. We did lot ripping with it. There were long infeed and outfeed tables to support the wood. As you say, kickback was one of the biggest concerns. We were aware of the dangers of the saw(s) but we had systems and jigs to make them safer.
Can’t wait for the shop shades!
You ought to see the rough cut blade they use in sawmills. Some those get up around 60" diameter. I used to work near one and it was a crazy feeling bring close to it
*Graphic Warning*
Yeah, I was eight when my dad chopped three of his fingers off with his radial arm. Still remember him running out of the garage holding his hand up yelling at me on the swingset to not go in there as he'd left it running. That saw is now mine decades later, and while I love the saw, I have a huge amount of respect for what it can do to me if I'm not careful with it. Still even have the blade that cut his fingers off on it lol. For the record, he was ripping wood using the full travel of the saw with all the guards removed. My mother had to find the fingers in a pile of sawdust and put them on ice. Doctors tried to reattach them, only one of the three was successfully reattached.
Used these everyday in uk, brilliant for repeat cuts, depth cuts, ripping rough sawn planks to length, really good for cutting bevelled shoulders on tenons
I used a radial arm saw years ago in high school. It was a great tool and as long as you don't have the saw blade directly pointed at a body part it was super-safe. I only used it for crosscuts and dados so perhaps other functions are more dangerous but for other functions I either used a table saw or hand tools. I always felt the radial arm saw felt safer than the table saw so maybe I'm just different than other users. Maybe it was because I could see the blade where-as with a table saw the blade was often hidden for dado cuts and rabbets. The saw I used had a auto brake function when power was removed which I'm sure makes a difference.
Awesome saw
I have used radial arm saws in both high school shop and in college. We only used them to make cross cuts on rough swan material or dado cuts. Nothing else.
Man, that saw brings back memories! Believe it or not, we had one in our high-school shop class. I used it alot from 9th to 12th grade. Back when men were men lol
Remiids me of the saw we had in high school shop class!
Owning one of these, on the rip cut, I often stop it most of the way through and pull the material through from the other side so I can maintain pressure against the fence.
Ran one of those for a year back in 1972. 16 inch delta we built 2 big project about 2000 2 story apartmens. The thing is a bull. Never laid it on the side . Cross cuts only. Great saw. We built a ply wood table for it 32 ft long 2 ft wide. Waxed table everyday. The wax was driping off the bottom of the plywood after we tore it down .
The radial arm saw at my school has like a 12 foot table. We never make rip cuts with it but if we ever did we have a long table so the material can't fall
I have an old Craftsman that does all these things - including being able to set it up as a sander.
It's a 12" blade, however. This is the type of tool we used in our old shop class. (I'm old. We were disposable back then.)
Holy smokes! Every time you pointed at the saw while the blade was still spinning I was like half out of my chair ready to run for help. I know you were 6' away but it still got me. This saw is great for about 3 functions as long as you need to make long continuous cut runs, say 30 or more. Otherwise there are modern tools that aren't as multi functional, but are much better suited to safely do the same things. That being said I totally want one :)
We had the exact same saw in Miron Lumber yard , it was a beast !
I have a Delta RAS and use it only with a stacked dado blade. The saw will need to be tuned up and adjusted with several excellent videos on YT showing how.
I grew up using one of these saws in my great grandfather’s wood shop. That saw scares me more now as an adult than it did when I was a kid. But luckily I still have all my 10 fingers.
I have a sears/craftsman 10 in radial arm thats been in the family for awhile now it got passed to my dad then me and ive been using it since i was around 10-12 (currently 25) and i had no idea people were that scared of it lol makes me rethink when i use it now also i had no idea the crazy cuts you can make on one
For the rip cuts you need to adjust the blade guard down at the frint end of the cut to prevent it from picking the material up at the beginning of the cut. And there are anti kickback pauls that are missing that wedge the kerf of the cut at the backside much like a riving knife on a table saw. I rip my plywood with a craftsman 10in radial arm saw (not full sheets, i do full sheets with a straight edge and a circular saw).
I ran one of these for almost 12yrs at an orange store that no one knows. We had a spring loaded tether that went from the saw carriage to the rear post to keep rearward tension on the saw. So if you let go, it would get pulled back into the starting location. It also stopped the saw from climb cutting, and shooting forward as you make the cut.
Dado's, Rabbit's, dental moulding, ect, The radial arm saw is a great shop saw, and when properly maintained is super accurate.
My father bought a 10" Dewalt radial saw new in 1958. I still have that saw in my shop today and can't imagine not having it. I have 8 foot in feed and out feed tables on each end of the saw therefor I don't get stuck like you did. As for the blade deflection , your blade is not lined up parallel to the fence. There are adjustments for every aspect of that saw. You had my heart rate up when did the rip cut because you are missing the anti kick back paw!!! My saw still has the original maple top on it and as the humidity changes in the shop I have to check cut squareness every now and then. Get a better operators manual on the saw and it will show all the adjustments that can be done on that saw. By the way I was never brave enough to do the gut cut rip. I use my saw almost every day. Keep up the the good videos and be safe!!! Mike
@23:20, about your saw being wired as to not extend a certain point.
I think the motor has been flipped over. Remove blade and rotate motor 360 degree counter-clockwise as seen at that point in the video. That should freen up the cable for maximum sketchiness.
cross-cut, you are standing on the wrong side. You need to stand in front of the saw, and pull with your right hand. Because when you are standing in front of the saw you avoid the saw coming forward, because you can put pressure. From the side it's more difficult to put pressure.
Honestly i can't wait to see what you make with this tool, I see how dangerous it can be. Maybe you could make your own blade guard that doesn't get in the way so you don't have to completely remove it but you are protected. It would be nice if you could add a brake to slow the blade down once the saw is off.
Had this exact model (minus the weird dust collection thing that this one has) in a wood shop I used to work at. But they had it altered so that none of the adjustments could be made. You could only slide it forward and back while cutting material. They also had a sort of raised bed built around the blade so the blade wasn't exposed. It was only used for 90 degree cuts on 2x Materials. 2x4, 2x6, etc. You slid the 2x materials under/in to the "raised bed". It was actually a pretty genius way to make a very unsafe saw, safe. They had it there for longer than the 10 years I was there with no incidents.
I worked at lumberyard in the early 80's and cut many a deck kit with one of these! 4x4, 4x6, 6x6 piece of cake!
John I used a Wadkin version of that radial arm as an aprentice in the early 80's... I got the last chance to use a 24" pendulum saw from the early 30's before it was removed from active duty... check out a pendulum saw if you think the radial arm is scary...
I've only ever used the radial for rough cross cuts on rough stock to kick off the refining process
I just ripped my first board on my radial arm saw, the scariest thing I encountered wasn't kick back but the blade lifting the work piece up, sometimes stalling the saw, it's why when ripping your suppose to lower the guard just above the work piece
John, your segue game is on point! I hardly realize I'm watching an ad until I'm already watching it. #AdGenius
Did notice some input about brushes or diodes that could aid in the saw break..honestly I bet some were on the interwebs there's probably something after market for beautiful functioning dinosaurs like that delta..we had a larger version of that at Mt work place..broke my heart when they replace it with a new aged tuuurd do to a part failure for locking down material up to 6x6
I’m glad you know when to stop, John.
…and I’m also glad you know to tell us you know when to stop. It’s one thing for Jim from Stumpy Nubs to calmly explain the dangers while showing a slideshow of the manual pages; it’s quite another for a woodworker to get halfway through demonstrating one of the only-moderately-sketchy cuts before going “f-no-f-no-f-no” and burying the blade in the workpiece to stop it NOW.
I have one. The motor is going. Some applications are great. It great for lap joints with a dado stack.
woot, just ordered shop shades 😁
My grandfather had one of these in his woodworking barn, though I don't think it was a 16". The thing always scared me growing up and when he passed about 10yrs ago I got most of his tools, but I didn't want anything to do with the radial arm saw with how dangerous it always seemed to me.
Insane safety practices using this saw!
John, I would love to see the safety demo's surrounding these saws. Maybe clam a workpiece to the table and pull the carriage with a string to show how the saw wants to run and how it will try to jump at you. Maybe use a ballistic dummy to show the carnage that can happen.
Ahhhh, the good old days. That was what we had to work with. The thing is, once you got comfortable around all those cuts....THAT"S when the accidents happened.
I saw the Stumpy Nubs vid with that panel cut photo. That is insane. If you can afford a radial arm saw you surely can afford a Skilsaw and saw horses.
Rake angle on teeth helps. It doesn’t grab if it is neutral rake. If you search specifically for radial arm blades they come up.
The rip cuts people use a push block that is a flat piece on the surface that pushes the pice and has a bracket with a handle to push it through. Sort of like a food processor pusher.
I would love to see you try the projectile lunching mode on that saw
I’ve got a 9” craftsman in my garage. Watching you do these cuts, I felt uneasy. When I went to trade school in 2009, they made us do a rip on one. Think that was the only and last time.
Me and my dad own one of these but the 10 inch varient for cutting siding it works great for that we have upgraded to something else now but this is what we used to use
Good on you for showing how dangerous the RAS is. I have 2, one with a trenching head and the other for high quality cross cutting. The wood machining world has changed significantly since the 80s. At trade school whilst doing wood machining we were taught to (interim) sharpen 24" rip saw blades (not carbide) with a file in situ then, to ensure that all the ends of the teeth were in the same cutting circle we would feed a broken piece of grinder wheel into the infeed side of the spinning blade!!! Sparks, screaming noise. the first time you do it, it is really scary. The next scary thing is after replacing the knives in an industrial 24" thicknesser you have to do a similar thing! This time though the abrasive part to grind the cutting edges of the thicknesser knives is rod shaped and in a carriage that is micro adjustable into the cutting circle and moved across the top of the rotating cutter block with screw feed.
I wouldn't do it now.
Speaking of Kickback (great song btw). My freshman year of HS in 1997, we had a kid have one on the table saw during woodshop. It sent a chunk of wood through the wall and into the lockers on the other side of the hall. Thank God no one was in the path. That same kid also had major issues with the spot welder.. and the band saw .. and the disk sander ... he was a mess. I'm 99% sure he's in prison right now..
My dad had one and wouldn’t use it. One day we did some 90 degree cuts but that was it. My miter saw does anything I would ever use a radial arm saw for. I gave it away a few years ago and said a prayer for the guys that took it.
My dad owns a rural lumber yard. I've been using this same 16" saw since i was nine. You can turn it off and still crosscut a 2x8 on blade momentum alone😅