Evinrude 30 Ignition system {How it works}!!!
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- čas přidán 6. 05. 2017
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Om Fishing with Captain Jim is going to show you how a 1991 30hp Evinrude outboard ignition system works. Help support my channel by using the link.
![Coil Test {would you look at that!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qz2KoQPfMZI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Coil Test {would you look at that!]](/img/tr.png)
Brilliant...helped a lot.thanks
im subscribing becoz of your great effort sharing your knowledge to the world. thank you sir
Thank you I appreciate it.
Thanks Cap'n... Great Info...👍
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for sharing . UK viewer
I hope it helps you and thanks for commenting and stay safe.
awesome content, thank you.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!!
How do you adjust the idle from the idle adjustment knob at the end of the tiller handle?
Thanks for the lesson sir...
My pleasure, Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi mate it's mike from Australia. I find ur videos down to earth and very helpful Thank you
Mike Henderson thanks for the kind words I enjoy making them.
Thanks makes sense!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe.
You are so right, these systems are really pretty simple and nothing to be afraid of for sure. Your engine has the pesky "UFI" set up which moves the powerpack under the flywheel and combines it with the sensor, calling it the "ignition module" like you pointed out. External powerpacks are easier to service/replace, but work the same way. Everyone should try out the SLOW circuit on their engines, so they will recognize how the engine runs while in SLOW, sounds like a "gattling gun". The stop switch is a major source of ignition troubles on these engines, but easy enough to trouble shoot. On your engine, simply unplug the single black wire connector on the coils and retest. These stop switches can cause any sort of ignition problems, not just lack of spark to both cylinders...So, the "stop switch elimination test" is always a great place to begin when troubleshooting ignition problems. And, just like anything else, it is always best to start with the simple things like grounds and connections. When we skip over simple problems, looking for major component failures, we usually get confused and invent problems that are not there, along with replacing expensive parts needlessly. Please know that I include myself when I say "we", been there done that!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with all of us trying to keep these old motors going. I really appreciate your feed back and please keep it coming.
Read my post above - sitting with the same issue. Cant go past about 2400 in gear.. just cuts out. Friend hit a huge wake - will check the black wire b4 the weekend, thanks!
Thanks and keep watching.
mine just dies stone cold. Got off the line to cdi tech - guy said I shd test 2 yellow wires as such: connected with motor running and one probe to gnd and another to each yellow terminal, OR with both yellows disconnected and probes to each yellow wire - for anything from 12-30v or something.
Mine has the pack on the port side - im sure its gotta be fuel delivery, leaking solenoid primer and/or carb issue -
OK, well I would agree with you Francois...It is very unlikely that the alternator windings are having an effect on the ignition system...Don't get me wrong, nothing is impossible, just very unlikely, especially if yours has the external powerpack...Did you read my previous post? I am a bit confused though. One of your posts says the engine gets up to 2400RPM but keeps running. Your latest post says the engine dies out completely at about 2400RPM....So, based on your latest post, I'm thinking you may have a fuel delivery/plugged high speed jet problem...Certainly easy enough to check out. First, have an assistant pump the fuel primer bulb continuously while you advance the throttle. If this helps keep the engine running and allows it to run past 2400RPM without stalling, then you need to investigate the fuel pump/filter/fuel lines/tank pick up and vent. Again, I am assuming this is a remote electric start engine. If so, I would try pusing the primer/key switch in when the engine reaches 2400RPM and is wanting to stall. If this helps, then we have to pull the carb bowl off and inspect the high speed jet...The key to success is always investigate the simple stuff first. Digging into electrical interference theories before checking simple stuff will only lead to more confusion....
Great, thanks!
Happy to help.
Im 16 and ive felt that shock enough times already
Yes I don't like to check the ignition that way either. Stay Safe!!!
How about checking the timing?Incase a previous owner may have tinkered with it?Many of these run at about 30 degrees/32 btdc.I know it is checked at WOT,but could you demonstrate that?
I know this video was 5 years ago but I have a 25hp Johnson tracker and it starts up fine but when I give it gas it dies out. I’ve cleaned the carburetor replaced the spark plugs put a new fuel pump in it and it’s still not working. I was thinking that the coils are bad and it’s loosing spark but I’m not sure any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Turn your puller over so the flat side is up. It’ll help to avoid breaking the small bolts. Also helps if you “eyeball” to make sure you have equal tension when not using the shoulder bolts
Thanks I will keep that in mind for next time.
Check out my last video puller is right side up and the bolts are equal. thanks
how do u test them to rule them out if they work or not
So the capacitor is grounded by the temp switch/ t.stat when overheating occurs? This is interesting...I've been an automotive tech for 36 yrs. and I just dove into marine mechanics in the last few months( learning curve!). I want a new career when I retire from automotive .I have an 86 evinrude 30 horse which I brought back from the grave and your videos have helped a lot! But one thing...you say you're not a mechanic 🤔 been doing it a while huh! Thanks for the vids, very reliable! Subbed
Thanks and keep watching stay safe.
hey mate love your stuff. just wondering what you used to stop the flywheel from turning when undoing the bolt? is it just a plain rachet strap?
I have a strap wrench that will hold the flywheel so I can loosen the nut.
How does the system know which spark plug to fire.
Need a video on motor mounts
I bought a seized up 1956 30 horse for parts and I am having trouble getting the magneto plate off the top of the motor is it screwed on from underneath
I don't have a secret recipe for that, good luck!!
The ignition system you are dealing is call a UFI UNDER FLYWHEEL IGNITION. evinrude ran that system for only few years. I believe 1991-93. Reason to going back to original system. UFI had to many failures.
Sir I have a 1994 Evinrude 50 horse on my pontoon boat sometimes it Sparks fine and starts other times I'm getting no spark I've cleaned a couple grounds, cleaned plug wires should I change the coil. Please advise
Make sure you check your kill switch. Does it seem to do it more when it is hot or is their a common time it stops. If it has a coil for each cylinder would find it hard to believe that all the coils are bad at the same time. If that model has a single coil I would try replacing it. Remember the electrical system is the weak link on a out board.
My name ignition module (the one the charge coil sends a voltage to) has gone bad two after I replaced it a month ago, and now I’m back to no spark. Any idea what might be the culprit?
I would fist check all wires and grounds make sure all are good and making a good connection. Make sure terminals are connected on the wires.
Hello sir I have a 2003 Johnson 90 that won’t turn off when you pull the red cord off the kill switch. Any idea what I can check. And it will not beep when you turn the key any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank in advance
What I woud do is make sure that all wires are making good contact. The ones that are grounded to the block and any others. That would be the first think a tech is going to check. If that is fuel injected and EMM your going to need a computer with a diagnostic program for that engine. Check out my video on the E-tec
czcams.com/video/AkmBn6J-_aU/video.html
Okay I’m having an issue with mine. J35RCRR. Will not run unless a starting aid is sprayed into the throat of the carb. Carb getting fuel and going into the engine and pump is pumping. Could it be the stator?
Tyler check out my Video Hard Start Outboard Motor Fix.
czcams.com/video/GUqRPJujhtA/video.html
hi sr your videos are really helpfull i have that same engine but i dont know what year is it
Israel Torres if you have the model number I can tell you what it is or wait a few days and I'll post a video on how to do it
Om Fishing great video .. I like how you take your time to explain precisely.
hope you can help me with my ivenrude 40hp wont start no electric 😭😭😭
I have the same motor, it has spark In one cylinder but the other one doesn't have, what should i do? Also the cable to pull to start is amazingly hard any advice on those 2 problems
First I would check the spark plug wires and spark plugs. Check out my video on Coil Test
czcams.com/video/Qz2KoQPfMZI/video.html
What I found on my motor was one of the ends of a spark plug wire was bad. Let me know what you find. Thanks for commenting and Stay Safe!
nice vid thanks- working on a 88 25. looks very similar.. doesnt rev past 2000 (+-) when in gear. On hose it can go rather high. Its def not heating up- tried with temp wire disconnected, same thing.. Stator passed the cdi tests (ohms). Will pull carb to see if the high speed is blocked (unlikely tho). Do these motors NOT charge then? This one also isnt charging however there are 3 yellow wires coming to a plastic block that goes to a reg/rect i also have to test. Disconnecting the 3 yellow wires also does nothing - stalls soon as u accelerate.
Any ideas?
OK, well I don't think your engine has SLOW if indeed it is a 1988 model... Does the engine stall out when you try to accelerate in gear to WOT? Or, does it just stay at around 2000RPM? There is no mistaking when an engine is in SLOW mode, it will sound like a machine gun and misfire violently...This is done to scare you into slowing it down! The engine will run normally below 2000RPM when in SLOW. Perhaps your engine is running on just one cylinder, it would still rev up OK in neutral, but have no power in gear. Again, if your engine is actually a 1988 model, it does not have the SLOW feature. This feature was introduced on the 1989 20-30hp models along with "UFI", under flywheel ignition....In other words the powerpack is underneath the flywheel. OK, the three yellow leads are the alternator leads and have nothing to do with the ignition system. In other words, a malfunctioning alternator is unlikely to have any effect on ignition output, two separate systems. The alternator equipped engines only have a four amp output, and that is at WOT, very little if any charging output at idle. You would need an ammeter that reads accurately from zero to five amps to properly evaluate alternator output. You can however, check the rectifier diodes and the alternator windings (yellow leads) with an ohm meter. The "charge coil" is a simple winding that delivers a few hundred volts AC to the powerpack, it can be recognized by its brown leads. This is a reliable simple winding that rarely fails, unless it has been rubbed on by the flywheel magnets, or its leads/harness has been damaged due to rubbing or overheating (melted leads). Have you done a spark check on this engine? I'm thinking it is only running on one cylinder. Don
OK, just reread your post....Does the engine just stall out when you reach 2400RPM? If so, does it seem like someone has just shut it off, or does it surge/hunt, then stall out like it is running out of fuel? I am assuming this is an remote electric start engine that "primes" when you push in the key switch. If so, I would slowly bring the engine up to the RPM when it wants to die out, then push the key in to prime it when it wants to die....You don't have an ignition problem if pushing in the primer seems to help the engine, even if only momentarily. It is tough for me to decide if you have an ignition or fuel issue unless I could actually hear it misbehave. I would definitely start by removing the stop circuit lead from the powerpack, but it is tough to push those leads out of the rubber connector without the proper tools. Please do not cut the lead....
Some ignition modules have a built in RPM limiting device to guard against improper propeller {underpropping} or ventilation.
That they do, it is usually noted on the powerpack/module...And, just like you say, this can drive you crazy if you are way underpropped and don't realize what is happening....
good evening, congratulations I follow you because you are a great mechanic, you have helped me many times with your videos on the outboards .. I can't find the code to buy the flywheel key of a Johnson 521cc.thanks for everything.Claudio from Italia
I will need to know the year to help you find the the fly wheel key. The one for a 1991 like I am working on is part Number 0307480. A lot of years use this same one, But some older years use different ones. Thanks for watching and commenting and Stay Well !!!
@@OmFishing hello, thanks for the reply, my engine is from 1980, thanks for your tutorials. you are strong!
@@claudioconte8677 Same Part Number as mine.
Is there some way to test that coil, I have no fire, cleaned power pack ground and ALL grounds, still no fire.
Check out my video on coil test.
czcams.com/video/Qz2KoQPfMZI/video.html
What size socket is used on the fly wheel bolt? I have a similar engine.
1-1/16" Nut on top of my motor.
Om Fishing Thanks.
Can you adapt a rectifier to that outboard? & how? I have that same engine. Im also looking into getting a electric start kit for it. Any suggestions or advise. Id greatly appreciate it
When I priced it out, to replace the flywheel and get a starter and the charging system. You could go buy a engine with it on it much cheaper, I am looking for a evinrude 30 like mine so i can just switch all the electrical to the motor I have. Have not found one yet at a price I am willing to pay. Everyone so far is around $800.00
Om Fishing ok thanks. I didn't know it was that expensive
@@cramos6638 if you have the rectifier model with no electric start its only about $200 to add the starter. $400 or so if you need the complete stator with power coil setup. as he mentioned easier to find a motor with it already.
Do you have any info in bench test of the power pack? Ohm readings etc? Thanks great video
No, sorry I will try to make one in the near future.
@@OmFishing That would be good, thanks for all you do, down to facts and easy to understand.
@@undeserved1781 no bench test per se, but you can get the stevens electronics 88 diode tester. simulated load on the pack and gives you a reliable voltage reading. simply compare to manual's specs and replace if needed. but usually done by process of elimination ie. if the charge and sensor coils are good, the pack is usually to blame. more to know, but too in depth to type here.
Hi can you tell me where need to connect temp sensor wire is same engine evinrude 30 hp 2 stroke no electric starter 1990/80
The temperature sensor has a brown wire on it, that brown wire will connect to brown wire on the ignition module.
i have 30hp johnson if you stand at the back of boat on the right side of motor there is a linkage that is off.it broke off a plastic that has one on each side .cant find what it is.
dan mclaughlin look for a how to sink the linkage on a Johnson outboard he has videos on it. Also check out tinboats.com form they have free manuals
I am not sure from your description but the manufacture does put part on these motors for different steering and different throttle controls for boat with forward controls and when we use then tiller handle those are just extra part we are not using. Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
I’ve got no spark on mine evinrude 9.9 , kill switch is good no spark from the stator assembly plug,so either charge coil or the other , if my keyway is sheared is it obvious ? The motor goes through compression when I pull the rope , I bought complete stator assembly plate and all, used ,from eBay , I guess real question is , if pin is sheared , will the engine not turn when you pull rope ?
I have found that when the pin is sheared it just sparks at the wrong time but still sparks. If the stator is good did you look at the magnets in the flywheel.
Om Fishing yes I did , was expecting rust and corrosion but instead everything looked showroom clean , I did get parts for it , hope to get them changed soon
I've got this same motor on my pontoon. It's been giving us a few issues that we're having trouble diagnosing. Runs good at low rpms. Give it throttle and it chokes out and dies. New plugs fresh carb and gas and now it won't start at all. No fire at the plugs. Am I looking at coils or something else?
Make sure the kill switch is not part of the problem. They are good for that.
@@OmFishing I think we narrowed it down to the cdi box under the flywheel. Part is supposed to be here tomorrow and we will find out
awsome video like always !! i have problem with my 2.5hp evinrude 1987 ... the timer base sensor is gone wrong ...can't find it anymore and no one make a replacement ... anyway to ((bypass , diy )) ... im so lost ... its a real old motor that belong to me for a while beeb taking care of him like a baby !!!!
I don't have any tricks up my sleeve on that one. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@OmFishing yeah even my buddy has a mechanic that been there and done that ... but no trick for that one and no solution for part !!! that suck this motor is my second son
Do you have a video to replace thermostat on the 30 hp.johnson
Yes I do check out this link
czcams.com/video/X1a5VpgGekE/video.html
I have a 1980 Johnson 25 pull start which is missing bad and won't run good low or high. Runs real rough. I changed the power pack and the coils seem good. Do you think a problem with the sensor could cause that? Thanks
Are you sure the motor is not running in SLOW. If the engine temperature switch is not working properly. I would check that first. S.L.O.W. is When engine temperature exceeds 180 F which limits engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm. Which make it sound like it is missing. Does your spark plugs test good, does it do it with more than one set of plugs? When the engine is warm does it get good spark to plugs?
I will check into that, thanks. First thing I did was put in new plugs with the same result. Hard to start and bangs and misses badly. Won't idle and won't run high either. Cleaned carb also to make sure.
@@ethannash4153 does it blow gas back out the carb when trying to run?
I didn't notice that but I had the plastic air silencer attached. Thanks for the replies
I think you were right about slow mode. Turned out the wire from the coil under the fly wheel was burned through and shorted aginst metal. Im sure power was intermittent. Easy fix. Thanks
If there is only one ignition module how does it know which coil to fire?
Tony this model only uses one sensor to fire both SCR's. The magnetic flux changes direction at each end of the pole shoes. The current from the sensor changes direction too. On these models a different cylinder fires when each end of the pole shoe passes the sensor.
How can you tell if you have a week ignition . Would that cause stalling at a low RPM ? .
One way to tell if you have a weak ignition is to use a spark tester that you can set the gap. I have found on the engines i have worked on that stalling at low RPM is most of the time in the air fuel mixture.
It could be, I would first check the carburetor make sure the ldle speed passage is clear. Then I would make sure the synchronization of the linkage is correct. The ignition would mess up at high speed most of the time.
@Derrick Smiley I learn how to work on the outboards because where I live they charge $140.00 an hour to repair them. I can study the service manuals and take the time to learn to repair my own for that kink of money. I am not factory certified and I am not a mechanic. I am a boat captain that can't afford to run to the marina every time my motor does not run right.
unusual way to teach people as this has the fairly uncommon UFI pack/sensor coil in one unit.
Ola amigo. No seu motor eu nao vi a bobina de fazer mandar o pulso no momento exato p bobina dar faisca nos cilindros
Da maneira como isso funciona, o virabrequim gira, ímãs dentro do volante carregam os enrolamentos da bobina. A corrente flui para o módulo de ignição. ele é convertido para DC. Quando os ímãs de flywheeel giram além do módulo de ignição, a corrente é induzida para o sensor interno. A descarga do capacitor para os enrolamentos primários da bobina de ignição que vai para os enrolamentos secundários que cria a tensão para criar a faísca na vela de ignição. Eu espero que isso ajude.
Whats the socket size on that crank shaft nut?
1-1/16" Nut on top of my motor.
I'd there a sequence with hooking wires to the points. Thanks
If there is I don't know it. When I am hooking the wires I make sure they are not wrapped around each other. When the engine is off I work the throttle and make sure the wires clear everything. Thanks for watching and commenting.
i lost spark on number 1 can it be the ignition module on just one?
It very well could be, but that is not were I would start checking. I would make sure all the wires are good first. Starting with the ground wires to the block and make sure the spark plug wires are good and the spark plugs are good. I would make sure the coils are good and working well. Be sure and let me know what you find.
@@OmFishing i have a single coil with dual output one side went out so it was the coil
hi i have an evinrude 140 hp but i have two cylinders that have no spark that could be
That is not a easy question to answer. If you don't want to take it to someone. I would buy a service manual and trouble shoot the ignition system. I can spend a lot of time studying the manual for what the marinas in my area charge. Check out my link for parts and manuals. I get a small commission off of each sale. The price is the same if you buy it. Help keep the videos free.
www.amazon.com/shop/omfishing
Do you have an email or something that I could message you from I’m having some problems with A 1989 Evinrude 30 hp Tiller...The problem is someone has disconnected Emergency off switch...And at the on off button On the front is corroded and tore up..I’m not getting any spark do toto this because I don’t know if there’s a workaround to get the buttons or whatever just need some Help thank you very much
Sure just email me at Omfishing@yahoo.com
Just give me a heads up when you email me. That way I will know to look for it.
Hello i have a question i have a old evinrude 9.9 1982 two years ago start in the first pull i don't used in two years and now don't start i change the sparks plug new carburetor kit. have a spark i don't not what i can't do what is your opinion thanks i enjoy all your videos
If it ran good two years ago I would Check to see if it is getting fuel first .If it starts with some fuel sprayed in the carb you did not say if you tried that, but if the spark plugs are getting spark and a little fuel it should start. Fuel pump maybe? When you first turned the engine over did it turn easy or was it stuck.
Om Fishing the motor turn easy not is stuck i just change yesterday the impeller i install the carburetor kit new spark plug
Hello i try yesterday to start the motor i put gas in the carburetor and in the piston still the same he try to start i check the spark and is really strong meaby is the carburetor
Are you sure the carburetor is clean and the the fuel is getting to the engine. If your getting good spark it could be sparking at the wrong time, but before we go there lets make sure we have the basics: compression, spark, fuel. Once we know that for sure we can go else were. I know I have clean the carb and when I tried to start it the fuel was dirty and clogged the carb right back up. That is why I put a good fuel filter on my Jon boat. I would hate to see you spend a lot of time and money to fine dirty fuel is the problem.
If you still can not get your engine to run I would do a compression test on it to see if something happen there.
1974 9.9 johnson seahorse new coil packs, no spark on bottom cylinder. Ive got fuel to the bowl and can start and run it after cranking the electric start for a painfully long time but it runs like crap cause it's only running top cylinder. At a loss
It could be a bad condenser or bad set of points. I would start there. I would reset the point and check that they are working correctly. I have put the after market points in and they not work well. If one coil is working you can assume the flywheel is good. Check the flywheel key way. You almost have it don't stop now. You will be on the water before you know it.
Wish my 20hp had the high temp CDI
Be careful what you wish for!
Your right, I would hope I would never need it, but you never know when you may lose water flow and it would be an engine saver I hope.Good video, glad you made it.Still sorting out my 20hp/25hp conversion.New prop now,but pulls to the right.Need to try and sort it out.Also, it left me sit on river.Lost all spark.Got home and found ground wire for CDI unit was not making good connection and was able to clean up connection and got good spark again.Amazing how fast it happened.Keep making the videos.thanks
newyota1 the UFI SUSTEM WAS JUNK.
Hi how do I time up 55 Johnson
Sorry I have not set the timing on a 55 Johnson. Try Iboats forum they might have it there.
Can't you just put a rectifier on an it charge battery?
I don’t know how to do that. But that would sure be easy.
First of all your flywheel puller -you have down side up!.
You are right. I will not make that mistake again. Thanks for keeping me straight.
First thing I do with these motors is move the cdi, out from under the Fly-wheel,, Yep that is whatsss I does,, why.. ummmerrrr, uhhh, cause I hate pullin flywheels! standard cdi straight pack , works just fine on the side of the block, block is bossed for it so there yuz go,,,, ""Quote'' Forrest Gump ,, Forrest Gump' that's good one less thang' kodi
Thanks for the tip. Keep watching and stay safe on the water.
How can you move it from under the flywheel
Timeing 30hp johnson 1990
Running into issues with my rebuild. Would appreciate a view and comment from you to let me know what the coil should test at. I know you're busy, so you could go to the 2:45 mark on the video, this will show you what I have. "Call your dog his mother's name" haha, best line ever.
czcams.com/video/e26KoF7rZxA/video.html
When you are checking the coils I removed mine first. Then on the Primary side the resistance should { that is black lead to ground tab and the red lead to coil primary terminal} meter should be 0.1+ - 0.05 ohm.
Then connect the meter red lead to coil primary terminal and connect meter black lead to coil spark plug terminal. Meter must show 275+ - 50. Hope this helps. Stay Safe!!
@@OmFishing Thank you sir! This does help.
Do you have an email?
Omfishing@yahoo.com
Thanks Bud!!
Thanks Bud!!