If all else fails take a grinder and make a narrow slot for a wide flat headed screwdriver and then wrench the nut down until the shaft doesn't move on its own when your tightening it down . Then torque it down to specs.
after. I don't recall the count, just until you notice its reached the lower seal area on the housing piece. You don't want to over pressure and damage it.
do you HAVE to unbolt the tie-rod's for the ends (steering knuckle) to be ABLE to seprate the idler arm from the center link? I know you were swapping tie-rods....
You're _likely_ going to need to do that to get the necessary clearance to remove the idler arm. I suppose it _could_ be done without removing the drivers side, but you'll need the passenger side clearance for sure. Keep in mind that part replacements in this steering linkage area will likely require a new front end alignment once completed.
@DrShock thanks for the reply. I was trying to separate with a pickle for and it budged only a quarter of an inch, which didn't make sense. I then thought maybe I need to disconnect the ends for there to be separation. I buttoned up everything instead of proceeding... thought I'd ask first.
I banned pickle forks in my shop. Guys kept using them on parts that needed to be re-used, and ruined the boots. Smacking on the side of the part with the hole through, hard with a hammer, will shock the connection and loosen the taper up. It may take a few hits but they always come apart. I learned this from an employee that had worked in muffler & brake shops for years.....
@@DrShock okay no problem. Maybe you could answer my question. I have watched other videos where people have removed the steering gear bolts and rotated the steering gear to make the pitman arm more accessible. In your opinion is this the best approach for removal and replacement or did you do it another way?
I definitely did loosen up the steering gear assembly mounting bolts in order to gain some room, but did not have to remove the steering gear altogether. You're going to want a pitman arm puller tool to fit in there as well as a breaker bar, or cheater, for the nut.
@@DrShock how do you know if beackets bad?i have a 02 tahoe and had change idler and brack 2 or 3 times already in 2 yrs. My whole front end is new but i get a constant left to right travel wheels turn l to r on there own on bumps.
@@colinokeeffe321 Some common things to check on the idler bracket - the grease seals (if leaking / blown replace it), the zerk fitting (if ball valve is shot replace), and excessive play with the idler arm. A general rule is if you replace the arm, replace the housing also as they need to be a matched assembly age and wear wise.
Is there supposed to be a Metal washer between the centerline and the nut? Is that foam washer supposed to go between the arm and the link or the link and the nut
I did in my chevy express 3500 The mecanic guy wanna charge me 200 dollars to changed i buy and do the job by myself The job was very esay to fo i did in 2 hours nothing complicated And i save 200 dollars just for the labor
Perfect! The way a video like this should be made. "Either you don't have a big enough hammer or your not hitting it hard enough" love it
Nice write up sir, was a great help to me on my 98 K2500 Burb - especially with torque specs.
I did mine last month. I just used an impact gun to install the arm to the assembly.
Another fantastic educational video. Thank you so very much.
Absolutely outstanding!
If all else fails take a grinder and make a narrow slot for a wide flat headed screwdriver and then wrench the nut down until the shaft doesn't move on its own when your tightening it down . Then torque it down to specs.
Thank you
Do you grease these b4 or after installation? And how many pumps? Or until grease starts to come out
after. I don't recall the count, just until you notice its reached the lower seal area on the housing piece. You don't want to over pressure and damage it.
@@DrShock thanks
@@loganator78r I had the exact same question. Seems so much easier to grease them while out of the truck.
do you HAVE to unbolt the tie-rod's for the ends (steering knuckle) to be ABLE to seprate the idler arm from the center link? I know you were swapping tie-rods....
You're _likely_ going to need to do that to get the necessary clearance to remove the idler arm. I suppose it _could_ be done without removing the drivers side, but you'll need the passenger side clearance for sure. Keep in mind that part replacements in this steering linkage area will likely require a new front end alignment once completed.
@DrShock thanks for the reply. I was trying to separate with a pickle for and it budged only a quarter of an inch, which didn't make sense. I then thought maybe I need to disconnect the ends for there to be separation. I buttoned up everything instead of proceeding... thought I'd ask first.
Would have liked to seen how you removed the idler arm bracket
I banned pickle forks in my shop. Guys kept using them on parts that needed to be re-used, and ruined the boots. Smacking on the side of the part with the hole through, hard with a hammer, will shock the connection and loosen the taper up. It may take a few hits but they always come apart. I learned this from an employee that had worked in muffler & brake shops for years.....
Do you happen to have a video of pitman arm replacement for the gmt400?
No, sorry that's one that I've done before but didn't record.
@@DrShock okay no problem. Maybe you could answer my question. I have watched other videos where people have removed the steering gear bolts and rotated the steering gear to make the pitman arm more accessible. In your opinion is this the best approach for removal and replacement or did you do it another way?
I definitely did loosen up the steering gear assembly mounting bolts in order to gain some room, but did not have to remove the steering gear altogether. You're going to want a pitman arm puller tool to fit in there as well as a breaker bar, or cheater, for the nut.
@@DrShock Thank you sir! I always appreciate your willingness to help.
What kind of tie rods are those they look beefy ?? I bought some moog ones an within a year they were shot
Genuine GM parts always. This is a 6.5L diesel truck though, so the GM suspension components are the same as for a K2500.
Why did you replace the bracket? Was it bad or did you just want to replace it because it was old? How can you tell if it is bad?
Age, since the arm had in fact failed it is best practice to replace everything.
@@DrShock how do you know if beackets bad?i have a 02 tahoe and had change idler and brack 2 or 3 times already in 2 yrs. My whole front end is new but i get a constant left to right travel wheels turn l to r on there own on bumps.
@@DrShock im thinking of putting a steering damper on
@@colinokeeffe321 Some common things to check on the idler bracket - the grease seals (if leaking / blown replace it), the zerk fitting (if ball valve is shot replace), and excessive play with the idler arm. A general rule is if you replace the arm, replace the housing also as they need to be a matched assembly age and wear wise.
Nice Video, When Replacing Your Tie Rods I’m Assuming You Replaced Both Inner And Outer, Did You Get An Alignment After Replacing Them?
Awesome! Will Be Replacing The Tie Rods Next. Did My Pitman Arm And Idler Arm/ Idler Bracket Today. Thanks
Do you recall what size the allen key size?
No, sorry its been too many years on that repair now. But it would have been one from your metric key set.
Is there supposed to be a Metal washer between the centerline and the nut? Is that foam washer supposed to go between the arm and the link or the link and the nut
What time index in the video are you looking at so I can take a look?
I did in my chevy express 3500
The mecanic guy wanna charge me 200 dollars to changed i buy and do the job by myself
The job was very esay to fo i did in 2 hours nothing complicated
And i save 200 dollars just for the labor