Finally, someone that talks sense about these motors! Thank you. I've got a '99 drifter,so far the noises haven't been an issue , but , will file it away. Just wonder if you have any tips on what to do to correct a dragging clutch? No help from the manual.slipping sure, but not dragging . Any way , from the usa ,keep the rubber side down brother.
After many years with my Drifter 1500, watching your video teached me LOTS of things about this lovely bike, thanks for all the history and the tips. Now I know why my Drifter smells so rich, because IT IS! Now I know why my Drifter has a bizarre air/filter system, because.. reasons! Now I know why my Drifter is FI but has a manual idle adjustment and a choke. Now I know what the hell is the goat bladder for. Now I know why I LOVE this bike.
Hello The Ponkster! I am so glad that I stumbled across your highly knowledgeable self on this here CZcams channel of yours. Upon watching this video of yours, I immediately complied with rewarding your efforts with the prerequisite "BIG Thumbs Up" sir, and I also honestly could not click on the "Subscribe" button for your CZcams channel quickly enough! Your down to earth, laid back manner, coupled with your obvious highly technical understanding of how these Kawasaki 1500/1600 V Twin engines operate, is honestly like a breath of fresh air to me. I am now a new subscriber to your excellent CZcams channel. So I just wanted to let you know how happy you have made me by sharing some of your wisdom with us and finally, I wanted to just simply say: Thank You The Ponkster! Thank You very, very much!!! As I already mentioned, I am now a new subscriber to this (your CZcams channel) channel and I am super excited to learn much, much more from you. I am the owner of a 2005 Kawasaki-VN1600-Mean Streak and I have been in love with this particular motorcycle since I bought it second hand approximately ten (10) years ago. Now that I have found you, I feel as though it may finally be the right time now to begin working on identifying the various "noises" that are produced from my motorcycle's engine and using your expertise, I will attempt to carry out all of the modifications that you set us all wise to in this video. I am looking forward to viewing all of your CZcams videos The Ponkster. Thanks so much for your generosity as it pertains to your hard-earned knowledge which you are providing all of us with! Best regards, Fred
Thank You Sir, for your clear and easily followed instructions! I have just purchased a 1500 Mean Streak and yes, it's a noisy engine. Now I have direction to go following a good oil /filter/strainer change with it. Very much appreciated, the most useful YT video I have seen in ages. Thank You very much for taking the time to do it.
Brilliantly explained.. Thank you! Already done the coasters, timing chain extenders... Still have the steering head bearing and the clutch to sort. Looking forward to more of your videos!
They can be made in to a good reliable motor with a few modifications - they are never going to be a powerhouse , but that's not what they were built for. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid Jon - thanks for the comment.
Great video - I am far from being a mechanic, but your explanations and solutions made it fairly easy to understand. I don't plan on any changes at this point to my 2006 Vulcan Nomad 1600, but when/if I do, watching your video has been a great help!
I just watched your video ... Bro it was so informative . Actually taught me a couple of things i didn't know . Thanks i will be watching for more videos
Very informative video mate! I have a Mean Streak 1600 with VH 2-1 pipes, hypercharger and PC5 and this video game gave me a good idea of how stuff works. Thank you!
Just purchased a vn 1600 mean streak 2008 and try to diy any service or fixes. Thanks for explaining in terms that I can understand and hope too see more on your site.
I'm glad you liked the video - I do still have the Vulcan, but I don't do bike videos these days so I don't think there will be any more Meanstreak "how to" videos in the future unfortunately.
Thank you 👍 excellent video, clear concise explanations .. I had a VN 15 classic D2 for a lot of years that I customised pretty heavily.. I’ve had a hankering recently to get back to a VN .. got an ex ambulance st13 at the moment which is an awesome bike but very top heavy. Your channel will be a great source of information 😎 Where about in the north of Scotland are you .. I live in Fife but also have a caravan close to Durness 👍
Very Informative i have a 1999 J1 Drifter 1500 came from scott bikes im its second owner been all over france and isle of man TT had ten years now best bike Ever,
I'm the same with oil, change it very often and use decent stuff. Not the high end stuff as that'll just ruin your life and they're usually almost the same anyway :) Good video Ponkster! :)
@@sabrinahutchins6567 I think you can use fully sythetic but some people have found that it can contribute to clutch slip - I use a good quality semi synthetic but will use a mineral oil for a period if I have put in new clutch plates - an old mechanic told me to do that and I've no reason to doubt him ! I think its more important to change it often than the brand of oil and I think fully synthetic oil suits higher reving crotch rockets more than this engine IMO ( IM NOT A MECHANIC)
@@ThePonkster Well then, I must be precisely biased in the exact same direction(s) as you are, fine sir! I love the "aura", if you will, of riding my 2005 Kawasaki 1600 Meanie, every single time I get on her, to this very day. She is my little beast and I would not part with her for any other motorbike. I may buy an additional motorbike, that is not out of the question, however my little beast and I are permanently attached to each other for life! Fred
Awesome knowledge mate, and although I don't have the same bike, it did explain why my old Beta Alp had a hose going from the airbox to the exhaust, really interesting to watch mate :-)
Just got back from riding the bike with the new improvements worked like a charm took all the ticks out of the breather took all the pops out of the exhaust now to put the cam chain tensioners in and I'll be a happy boy thanks again for the input good stuff wish me luck on the cam chain tensioners Esmeralda is now a fat happy smooth running girl. Thanks for the tips
hi this is good information video and I got a lot out of it , thank you can't wait to rip that emissions system out it has been a pain for me , do you have another spare emissions cap off you would part with
if you are talking about the air injection system , then it can be disabled buy using a simple glass marble - watch the video I made called "stopping the pop"
I bought a used 94 vulcan 1500 a couple weeks ago and I'm learning to ride on it but it has such a loud ticking noise in the engine mostly in 1st and 2nd gear and it's really scared me sounds like the cam chain slap you're talking about, big thanks 👍
The early Vulcans had a different motor, so Im not sure what cam chain tensioners they have - but most motors have an extender available which is a short term cure to the chain slap and not a big deal to fit. If I was you I would go on the forums and as the collective experts on your problem.
I must admit as I get older I have started to put the baffles back in with some of my bikes - I like a loud pipe but I'm not a fan of "ear bleeders" anymore ! Thanks for your comment 👍
@@ThePonkster my pleasure, I love my 2003 VN1600 classic . I already knew she was built noisy, and have no intention off changing anything right now. Confirmation of the commonality is always nice. I have to say I love the look of your scooter. Cheers
I have a 2001 vn1500E with 13,000 miles. the emissions junk has all been removed.. Has a hypercharger, v&h drag pipes. And been jetted. Mine runs great also.. And no unusual noises.. Loads of low end torque. Better be holding on when you open er up..
Ponkster i need help brother. Fan good New radiator cap New Cam shaft adjuster's Oil change new gas Coolent flush. Carb clean out New plugs My exhaust pipes getting red hot when starting n a tapping carb side sound like it's coming from behind carb
That sounds bad Salvatore, I have to remind you I am not a bike mechanic and you probably should get a qualified one to look at at it - they are worth paying for in situations like this. That being said here is my unqualified opinion which you can choose to listen to if you wish. Glowing headers are often a sign of a bike running way too lean (too much air) , so a good start would be to check for any air leaks between the carb and the motor. Also if you have had the carb apart I would double check it is back together properly as a wrongly assembled carb could cause this - if you could "borrow anther carb from somewhere you could use this to "rule out " the carb as the cause. I hope this helps and you get it running well again.
They are a funny motor - if it was a car it would be a "turn the radio up" motor , my pipes and an amount of self conditioning means I dont hear its weird noises anymore 😂 Thanks for your comment .
I’ve got a weird one, I’ve got a sort of ticking/chirping, mostly at highway speeds while on the throttle “Under a load”. Along with the chirping”” it seems to have a loss of power and the fi light comes on when I stay on the throttle while it happens. Any idea?
I cant say I've come across that one - I think it sounds like a fueling issue (imo) , I would start by checking the obvious stuff like a restricted air filter and ducting or a kinked or pinched fuel line .
@@ThePonkster Exactly so. Before I found the old box spanner I actually used a plastic handle from an old dustpan & brush, it didn't have quite the correct profile but it did the job!
Love the bars on your Vulacn, a bit like beach bars..is it all commonly available bar stuff you have used? I've been told it's impossible to put beach type bars on the mean streak due to the type of fitting, but you have done it? Do you have a video about them? Thanks for all the great content!
I dont have a video - but its easy enough but quite costly. I have had Apes and wide beach bars on this bike. You need to remove the original bars, fit generic 1" bar risers of the height you require, then fit the bars you choose. Big bars will also require you to replace the clutch and brake lines which you will have to make or have made as they are not readily available. you will also most likely have to have made up longer throttle cable which are also not easy to get "off the shelf". For a clean look I also routed the electrics inside the bars which requires you to cut the wiring loom and extend the wiring using specific thin wiring loom cable as it is a very tight fit to get them all in. All in all a lot of work but nothing too hard - I hope this helps.
Very good video finally found someone who knows what there doing. I've been looking on CZcams and Kawasaki Vulcan forums. Please im in dire need of help. I Don't have money to take to shop. I need to change rear CCT any help would be appreciated thanks
Doing the cam chain tentioners on the vulcan 1500/1600 is easy as access in not really restricted - while you are in there you would be as well to stick on extenders as the stock ones are a bit short and can run out of adjustment. Here is a great how to from the long dead gadgets page which was the vulcan "go to" back in the mists of time - I hope it helps, gadgetsfixitpage.com/article.php/cam-chain-tensioner-extenders
Hi I have the kawasaki vn1700 classic Tourer, and it has been sitting in my garage for a year now. I've taken it out for the first time this year and it's popping tapping, and then it losses power, 😢 If I can get my bike to you, would you be able to solve this problem for me. Maybe make a new video for your channel to.
Sorry David the 1700 is a motor I know nothing about - I'm not doing anymore Vulcan content on the channel. I don't work on other peoples bikes, I barely have time to work on my own - I hope you get it sorted.
When I purchased my 2006 1600 Vulcan Classic w/Vance Hines pipes and upgraded air filter also Cobra Fi2000. Should I just tweek pot settings to achieve same results you are mechanically fixing. My bike has never seemed to have as much power as I thought it should.
They are not a particularly powerful motor - opening up the air flow and adding a bit more fuel across the range is about as good as you can do without a dyno tuner to see what the motor needs
Hello friend, thanks for your video, is very helpful but i still have a problem. My problem is the mix is very rich and i don't know why, i already clean all the system, the injectors and replace the air filter and remove the solenoids how you show, but the mix is very rich that even smell, so please can you help me to figure out what is happening? Because i think the bike need more air but don't know how to increase the air into the system.
Firstly please remember Im not a mechanic - that being said, how are you determining it is running rich? Smell and a sooty plug is not an accurate way on a fuel injected bike and a dyno is the the only real way to tell. The normal ecu map goes through rich to lean and back to rich. If you bike is running well I wouldn't worry because rich is safe but lean is what can damage you engine. My bike smells quite "rich" when running but I know it is set up correctly - if you are worried get it gas analysed and dynoed.
Why does my 2006 Vulcan 1600 bog down & die as I’m coming to a stop? If I’m in any gear coming to a stop even with the clutch in? Usually it won’t die, if it’s in neutral. But it definitely bogs out & dies coming to a stop almost every time (in a gear, w clutch in) I usually have to keep revving it to keep it from dying or stalling out. Please share some info if you know why this is.
If the bike is in "stock" set up the air idle solenoids under the right hand "dog bowl" are responsible for the tick over transition - any air leak in any of the multiple pipes in this system can cause problems with the transition to tick over. My bike has had the complete system removed and the idle is set by the idle adjustment knob.
The best remedy for noisy cam chain tappet ticking etc is top the engine oil up. Dead giveaway when my VN starts getting noisy its oil is low. Pity the d-head engineer put the sight glass in a bad spot.
They soon let you know if the oil is low.The cam chain tentioner are also way too short and run out of adjustment with even the slightest chain stretch - the tentioner extenders are a cheap solution
I'm no mechanic, but I wouldn't loose sleep over it - that's what the filter screen is for . Keep an eye out for any leaks but it's more than likely sealant oversill coming off a seam. The oil sounds burned which could be down to clutch slippage- change the oil regularly and keep an eye on it
Great and useful video, thanks! Quick question. Does anyone is familiar why my VN 1500 classic make a cracking noise on the gearing when I shift from 1st to second gear only?
These bikes often have quite an audible "clunk" when they shift between 1st and 2nd but if there is any difficulty getting into gear there could be a gearbox or clutch problem. I had a bent shift fork which resulted in a grinding sound when trying to get into gear. A low worn clutch will make the shift into 1st and 2nd quite harsh and it may go into gear with a bit of a bang as the clutch will not be fully disengaged. Take a look at this video I did about my gearbox issues czcams.com/video/OlbtAsnUVNI/video.html - it was a long time ago so I don't really remember the fine details of what I did but the vids may help.
It is a 2" spectra car filter, the back plate is the factory standard with all the idle control solenoid removed and the cross over tube removed and the hole blocked off. The cover is a hub cap from a 1950s car with a hole drilled in the centre. The whole set up was a case of trial and error until I found some thing that worked for me.
I've your channel! I have a question I have a 06 1600 nomad with after market exhaust straight pipes no baffles it surges at low rpm like just putting around and I don't know if it has any sort of fuel management system as far as I can tell everything is stock other then the pipes any help would be awesome it's pretty annoying thank you
It could be a number of things, in my experience these motors don't like being ridden at super low revs like a Harley and they get a little jurky. Your idle may be set a little low or you may just be "lugging" it a bit in a too high a gear. I'm not trying to insult your riding skills and abilities - it is just I have had a lot of people say that these motors don't ride at all like a harley motor and they get grumpy if the tick over is set low to make them lope like a HD.
NO - the reed valves (not to be confused with reed valves in 2 strokes) open when the throttle is closed on over run and allow air to enter the exhaust and create secondary combustion of the unburned fuel (the popping) - you are not making any HP with your throttle closed - so no bearing at all on the HP your bike produces by removing (blocking them) - just a slightly "richer" smelling exhaust and no popping sounds.
Hi! Im Simon from sweden and I am currently doing the same modification on my air intake as you have. At 12:52 in the video you are mentioning the ”breather pipe”. Is that just laying inside or is it hooked up to something? Awsome video my man!
It was a long time ago when I did the conversion - I think I used the hole which was originally for the pipe that went to the air induction valves (the one that gets marbled) and I used the spare hole run the crank case breather pipe back into the air filter base plate - I THINK ! best of luck
Hey! Great video, I'm pretty clued up with cars and bikes.. I still have a question, I don't want to cause a stir here.. power commanders.. if the open loop system is set to running extremely rich and I've put a straight through v and h exhausts and a ram Air induction.. I take it power commanders just set the engine back to the original fuel air mixture (stupidly rich).. I'm not getting any tell tell signs that the engine is too lean, temps are always good even on good run in summer... is it worth it?
Thats a very controversial question - I know of lots of VN 1500/1600 owners who run pipes and airfilter upgrades with no fuel computer with no issues. My understanding with these motors is they run ok and only start to lean out to the less than desirable levels high up in the rev range. There are a number of other ways (other than the Power Commander) to add a little fuel if you are concerned - and as always remember I am not a mechanic and am an idiot !
@@ThePonkster cheers for the reply. I won't take your words for gospel. I'm in the same boat as you, I'm an idiot with no paperwork who can pick up a spanner.. 😁 I dont want to inject more fuel with it being absolutely necessary.. if it isn't getting burnt in the right place I might aswell burn pound notes.. my opinion on these systems is that they are pretty pointless systems.. anything that fools with an existing pwm circuit is causing potential grief later on.. do you know where I can read up on fixing the fuel ratios further up the revs?
@@MrBassman5000 The Vulcan forums are a good start - many people will give a lot of "generic" advice about fuelling, so all I can say is do your research and check your sources if you can. A dyno with gas analysis is the only sure fire way of knowing what your bikes fuelling is doing.
Ponkster, you're a little different. Most shade tree mechanics posting on you tube don't believe knowing what they are talking about is a necessary criteria before posting. So is this your only bike? Does your knowledge base run any deeper than the 1500 Vulcan lets say over to my Vulcan the VN-2000? I would love to hear you talk about that motors but alas it has virtually nothing in common with the other Vulcan motors.
My experience of the wonderful VN2K is having riden one a couple of times - that's it! Oh and don't be fooled, I'm an idiot making it up as I go along 🤣
Thank you for this information. Just got a 2006 Vulcan 1600. Very noisy engine. Was working the engine was worn out or loosing compression or oil pressure, but the oil pressure light wasn’t on. Also worried by how rich it runs. Black smoke definitely comes out of my pipes visibly and the exhaust pipes are pretty coated up with black shit. Still need to do an oil change & fresh spark plugs and some really good gas, maybe run higher octane, fuel stabilizer or sea foam. My bike does bog down & shut off when coming to a stop if I don’t keep the revs up. Any idea??? Also my throttle cable seems to stick open when my handle bars are turned to the right. Not good.
These bike do run quite rich from the factory - the octane of the fuel will have no effect on this. The bike will always thank you for an oil and filter change and some fresh fuel.
Hoping for a clarification on something. If you disconnect the wires from those solenoids but don't remove the solenoids themselves, will they stay closed and do the job of blocking off those little air pipes?
Yes - people have used numerous way all which are quite brutal if not doing it with the motor out the frame - the best method I have found is with great care heat up the cross over tube with a HOT AIR GUN by blowing air through it untill it soften and then pull it out gripping it with some vice pliers ( obviously after all the fixings are removed ) - pleas like and sub for more vulcan content
I have had very little exposure to the 2 litre Vulcan - what I do know is they have no bevel drive issues because they use a completely different drive system as for the rest I do not know - sorry I cant be anymore help. Thanks for the comment.
Hi, my Meanstreak is a 1500, totally stock with no modifications, want to keep it that way as I like my neighbours. BUT, could you tell me please, if I remove the air injection stuff off the heads and fit blanking plates, will this quiet the motor or do any good? Have already done the marbling to the hose..but wondering if removing all together will help quiet this stock, noisy beast? Talking about mechanical engine noise. Thank You very much!
Marbeling does the same as fitting blanking plates - as for making it a "quiet bike" - I think you have got the wrong bike ! If your bike is stock standard with the original stock exhaust it should be pretty quiet - how quiet do you think a Vtwin 1500 motor is?
First comment 94 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 88 series when I first started up sounds like it's knocking pull in the clutch it disappears then goes away when warmed up, second instead of installing the block off plates for the read valves I left them in and just kept them off I'm not sure if that's the right thing but somebody told me it would work instead of putting on the plates, am I correct in assuming I can cap off all the vacuums on the carburetors except for the one going to the IC igniter, third I have a constant vibration at 20 mph in first gear 30 mph in second gear 40 mph to 3rd gear I got rid of most of it by deleting the emissions don't know where to go next, any kind of help you can provide me with would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for your comment , before I attempt to answer your questions please bear in mind I'm just a dude who likes Vulcans and am no way a mechanic . 1. yep the clutches can be noisy when cold and Im not sure why - as long as it functions and doesn't drag or slip I would be tempted to leave it alone. 2 Im not sure about the carb version but on the FI models the cheap way of block of plate is done by blocking the pipe with a glass marble - which works just as well as the block off plates which are mostly for the ascetics. 3 A vibration that is at a set speed in each gear seems to be related to engine revs and not road speed which tends to rule out drive line and gearbox - it could be a worn bearing on one of the internal shafts leading to a slight wobble at a certain revolution - sorry I cant be more specific
@@ThePonkster it's a start,I really appreciate the response,I figure if you work on your own bike then you'll know more about the quirks than a tech., he's out to make money, you're being helpful because you can,my next check is between the balance gear and balance weight are these rubber like dampners, possibly causing my issues, anyway thanks for your time, respectfully Tom
Nice in theory - problem is I have no power at my garage. I'm not that precious about the motor -I just don't rev it until its warmed up a bit and the oil has got up to the rockers which doesn't take long.
I am in the process of removing the air idle selinods, I've watched your videos many times. My question is, on the bottom of the right side there is an air output. Do i need to block that too
@@rudynatvicepresident5824 marbling wont affect cold start, but an airleak from the idle solinoid circuit will - if they are removed check you have a good tight seal on the small pipes they connected to
@@ThePonkster For the vacuum lines. My 07 mean streak has one capped off and the other isn't. I capped it and my bike wouldn't start. The idle screw turns to the left, but idle doesn't fluctuate.
@@PigeonMan5000 tbh I just tried a load until I got one that was a tight fit then put a hose clip round for good measure - you dont want one of these coming off and going down your throttle bodies
Its not a bike filter - its a 2" spectra V8 car filter with a wolsley 1940s car hubcap as a cover. I have used the original backplate and have neoprene sealing tape to pug any small air leaks - not a "plug and play" solution but I like quirky ideas.
Hello Ponkster. Great Video!!! I have subscribed to your channel. I have a question that i hope you can help with. In the last day or 2 my 1600 nomad has a rattling sound coming from the front( it sounds like it is in the front cyinder)It is constant when i accelerate and when i idle. But, when i clutch in and go to down shift it goes away. I have not tried looking at it the bike (Myrtle) is just sitting right now. Any advice would be helpful!! Thank you!!!
In my opinion it is very hard to find the location of an engine sound when riding a bike - I would suggest jacking the back end up and CAREFULLY running through the gears and with a helper try to find the location of the noise. If your sound disappears when the clutch is pulled in it does point to it being a gearbox /clutch issue.
May I have a question? I just installed the chain tensioner extensions of both of the chains. I also completely removed the vacuum tubes from the idle solenoids and filled the holes. I want to make the same intake upgrade as you did just to remove the tunnel and the left side filter. I'm just thinking about removing the whole system as you are talking about it in 20:50, so my question is, would it be okay when I remove it with the stock exhaust? I want to change the exhaust too on my 1500 nomad, but in the future. I thought that since I got my whole throttle body outside, I could do it now, because disassembling it is kind of pain in the ass so I don't wanna do the whole process again. Thank you for you reply. I really appreciate your videos :) hope you understand what I'm trying to say due to my english :D
I dont see any problem with doing it with a stock exhaust - all the upgrade does really is give a straighter path to the air and give a cooler air charge. There are lots of theories on how to get out the plastic cross over tube, with some people doing terrible things with power saws! I removed the tube by removing all the securing bolts and then heated it internally on the throttle body side with a hot air gun until it softened - then grabbed it with some mole grips and pulled it out - don't set fire to the bike!!!!!
Great video, good info, I have many more questions if I could contact you? Bike is currently dismantled, engine out due to oil leak and oil replacing water.
Just read in the other comments that you're not a mechanic? You've missed your calling, you explanation in the video was very clear, I would still appreciate your opinion when you have time thanks
G day I have watch a couple of you videos. I am now subscribed. I have a 97 1500. Are you able to tell me where to get the coasters from please. If not I will make them. Thanks for the info. I will check out more. Cheers From South Yunderup Western Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks for the sub. There is a guy in the US called chuckster who sells the coasters, you also see them on ebay from time to time.chucksterscustoms.com/product/kawasaki-coaster-plates/
I haven't worked on the 900 (why its not mentioned in the video), how ever the air injection and the O2 sensors work in different ways and I believe the air injection can be disabled without effecting the closed loop work of the O2 sensors. How you go about removing or blocking the air injection on the 900 I do not know, but I am sure the Vulcan forums will be full of useful help.
Yes I agree - I sorted issues when they occurred over a long period of time and making a video wasn't always top of my priorities - I'm sure someone else has taken the trouble to film their sick vulcan so feel free to get your help elsewhere if you so wish. Oh and as I have said before - I'm an idiot and don't take anything I do as advice!
Do you have a business with a phone number or a email that I can talk to you one on one. My 2002 Kawasaki 1500 nomad has me ready to roll it out in the yard and burn it.
Im not sure why this comment has only just appeared - but no I don't run a business as I'm just an idiot with a shed blindly fumbling through the vulcan problems
I finally got my bike back yesterday. $1000 later, still sounds horrible! Drove it 10 minutes and all the transmission fluid leaked out? I get back to the garage, guy says we didn’t even work on that side? It must be something else? They didn’t realize when they put my foot shifter back, it was in a different position? I told the owner, he looked at his mechanic, mechanic looks back and says yes we did take that side apart!!! Caught the owner in a lie! Bike is back there for day 19. The ticking is as bad as ever! It’s embarrassing stopping at a red light. This is my first bike. Only had a license for 6 months. Love riding. This ordeal is killing me. Thanks for the replies.
You really should get a manual about these bikes as they are very different from Harleys - they don't use transmission fluid and don't have a separate gearbox - the engine oil also lubes the gearbox and clutch. If you don't know the bike any crook can rip you off - work on it yourself and learn how to diagnose problems.
The VN 1500 and 1600 have hydraulic tappets which are self adjusting -I recommend you get a workshop manual and even if you are not doing the work it may help you not get ripped off!
Found out my horrible noise was a clutch bearing? Did my cam chain tensioner and oil change and the noise got twice as loud!! Hoping this ends it? Only really bad part, is the only mechanic I can find to work on it is a lazy dishonest dirtbag! Doesn’t stick to his estimates on time or money! Been there 18 days now for a two hour job!?! This is seriously ridiculous!
Just bought my first bike. 2001 Vulcan 1500 nomad. Runs perfect. Sounds terrible! I can’t afford to have someone rebuild the entire engine!?! Im screwed!
What a well researched and well explained video. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your comment👍
I just watched your video you have given me a lot of information that I’m going to put to good use. Thanks so much.
I am glad I could help Michael - please like and subscribe for more Vulcan content
Finally, someone that talks sense about these motors! Thank you. I've got a '99 drifter,so far the noises haven't been an issue , but , will file it away. Just wonder if you have any tips on what to do to correct a dragging clutch? No help from the manual.slipping sure, but not dragging . Any way , from the usa ,keep the rubber side down brother.
After many years with my Drifter 1500, watching your video teached me LOTS of things about this lovely bike, thanks for all the history and the tips.
Now I know why my Drifter smells so rich, because IT IS!
Now I know why my Drifter has a bizarre air/filter system, because.. reasons!
Now I know why my Drifter is FI but has a manual idle adjustment and a choke.
Now I know what the hell is the goat bladder for.
Now I know why I LOVE this bike.
Hello The Ponkster! I am so glad that I stumbled across your highly knowledgeable self on this here CZcams channel of yours. Upon watching this video of yours, I immediately complied with rewarding your efforts with the prerequisite "BIG Thumbs Up" sir, and I also honestly could not click on the "Subscribe" button for your CZcams channel quickly enough! Your down to earth, laid back manner, coupled with your obvious highly technical understanding of how these Kawasaki 1500/1600 V Twin engines operate, is honestly like a breath of fresh air to me. I am now a new subscriber to your excellent CZcams channel. So I just wanted to let you know how happy you have made me by sharing some of your wisdom with us and finally, I wanted to just simply say: Thank You The Ponkster! Thank You very, very much!!! As I already mentioned, I am now a new subscriber to this (your CZcams channel) channel and I am super excited to learn much, much more from you. I am the owner of a 2005 Kawasaki-VN1600-Mean Streak and I have been in love with this particular motorcycle since I bought it second hand approximately ten (10) years ago. Now that I have found you, I feel as though it may finally be the right time now to begin working on identifying the various "noises" that are produced from my motorcycle's engine and using your expertise, I will attempt to carry out all of the modifications that you set us all wise to in this video. I am looking forward to viewing all of your CZcams videos The Ponkster. Thanks so much for your generosity as it pertains to your hard-earned knowledge which you are providing all of us with! Best regards, Fred
Thank you Fred - I'm glad I could help.
Thanks for the explanation, now I have some adjustments to do this winter on my 1500.
Greetings from Finland.
Glad it helped
Brilliant video! That formidable mustasche doesn't hurt either. You sir, have earned yourself a new subscriber.
Im glad you found it useful. Thanks for the sub - I don't post much these days but you may like my older vids.
Thank You Sir, for your clear and easily followed instructions! I have just purchased a 1500 Mean Streak and yes, it's a noisy engine. Now I have direction to go following a good oil /filter/strainer change with it. Very much appreciated, the most useful YT video I have seen in ages. Thank You very much for taking the time to do it.
I'm glad you found it helpful - thanks for the comment
One of the best videos I have ever seen! Thank you for all the tips and info.
Thanks Russell - glad it was helpful!
Brilliantly explained.. Thank you!
Already done the coasters, timing chain extenders...
Still have the steering head bearing and the clutch to sort.
Looking forward to more of your videos!
They can be made in to a good reliable motor with a few modifications - they are never going to be a powerhouse , but that's not what they were built for. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid Jon - thanks for the comment.
Wicked video! You are incredibly comfortable and knowledgeable with these bikes it’s awesome.
Thanks James - I'm glad you liked the video👍
Great video - I am far from being a mechanic, but your explanations and solutions made it fairly easy to understand. I don't plan on any changes at this point to my 2006 Vulcan Nomad 1600, but when/if I do, watching your video has been a great help!
Thanks for your comment Lance 👍
This is such a great video along with your others. Thank you! 🙂
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just watched your video ... Bro it was so informative . Actually taught me a couple of things i didn't know . Thanks i will be watching for more videos
Thanks Ray, unfortunately I don't think I will be making anymore videos for CZcams - Im glad this one was helpful.
I know this is like 2 years old but I just bought one and this was very informative. thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! Good explainations of the motors in these bikes! Cheers
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your comment
Very informative video mate! I have a Mean Streak 1600 with VH 2-1 pipes, hypercharger and PC5 and this video game gave me a good idea of how stuff works. Thank you!
I'm glad it was useful to you 👍- thanks for your comment
I’m trying to fix my fathers Vulcan 1500. Your channel has helped a lot. Thanks!
I'm glad I could help - unfortunately I doubt there will be any more Vulcan videos from me.
Fantastic video, thank you so much for sharing your talent and your knowledge :)
I'm glad I could help - very little talent but a bit of experience if listening to clattery Vulcan motors 😂 - thanks for your comment
I am so glad I found this. I have a 1700 Nomad but this was still very interesting.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just purchased a vn 1600 mean streak 2008 and try to diy any service or fixes.
Thanks for explaining in terms that I can understand and hope too see more on your site.
I'm glad you liked the video - I do still have the Vulcan, but I don't do bike videos these days so I don't think there will be any more Meanstreak "how to" videos in the future unfortunately.
Thank you 👍 excellent video, clear concise explanations .. I had a VN 15 classic D2 for a lot of years that I customised pretty heavily.. I’ve had a hankering recently to get back to a VN .. got an ex ambulance st13 at the moment which is an awesome bike but very top heavy. Your channel will be a great source of information 😎
Where about in the north of Scotland are you .. I live in Fife but also have a caravan close to Durness 👍
Glad it helped!
Very Informative i have a 1999 J1 Drifter 1500 came from scott bikes im its second owner been all over france and isle of man TT had ten years now best bike Ever,
Thanks Mario - I like the 1500, it has its quirks like all bikes but on the whole is a pretty solid machine. Thanks for your comment.
Exactly what I wanted to know.
Thanks
I'm glad I could help Chuck - thanks for leaving a comment 👍
this is good advice. I used the marbling method. I have a Meanstreak 1600 2005
thanks
Great Video. Very easy to follow. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
cheers bro ive got the 900 custom 2008 love it and its got the ticking but not for long good on ya.....! mick from down under .
I,ve not done much with the 900s and 800s but I do love their "hardtail" look - thanks for the comment Mick.
I'm the same with oil, change it very often and use decent stuff. Not the high end stuff as that'll just ruin your life and they're usually almost the same anyway :) Good video Ponkster! :)
Im glad you like the vid - thanks for leaving your comment .
@@ThePonkster I have an 02 Vulcan VN1500 Classic FI. What's the ideal type of oil to use? And should we use full synthetic or no?
@@sabrinahutchins6567 I think you can use fully sythetic but some people have found that it can contribute to clutch slip - I use a good quality semi synthetic but will use a mineral oil for a period if I have put in new clutch plates - an old mechanic told me to do that and I've no reason to doubt him ! I think its more important to change it often than the brand of oil and I think fully synthetic oil suits higher reving crotch rockets more than this engine IMO ( IM NOT A MECHANIC)
very descriptive thank you ,very much knowledge and well explained,,, enjoyed the video.
Im glad it was helpful - I'm not a mechanic - just a guy who has had to fix a vulcan a few times ! Thanks for the comment
Great video explained lots of the sounds I get out of my 900
Thanks - Vulcans are not the quietest of motors but they have a charm you don't find in many "metric" motors - but I might be biased 😂
@@ThePonkster Well then, I must be precisely biased in the exact same direction(s) as you are, fine sir! I love the "aura", if you will, of riding my 2005 Kawasaki 1600 Meanie, every single time I get on her, to this very day. She is my little beast and I would not part with her for any other motorbike. I may buy an additional motorbike, that is not out of the question, however my little beast and I are permanently attached to each other for life! Fred
Thank you for the tips for my 1500cc mean streak 👍
No problem 👍
Awesome knowledge mate, and although I don't have the same bike, it did explain why my old Beta Alp had a hose going from the airbox to the exhaust, really interesting to watch mate :-)
Thanks
Thanks for the input helpful stuff I enjoyed it I'm going out in the garage and doing it to mine I'll let you know if it worked or not thanks
Just got back from riding the bike with the new improvements worked like a charm took all the ticks out of the breather took all the pops out of the exhaust now to put the cam chain tensioners in and I'll be a happy boy thanks again for the input good stuff wish me luck on the cam chain tensioners Esmeralda is now a fat happy smooth running girl. Thanks for the tips
hi this is good information video and I got a lot out of it , thank you can't wait to rip that emissions system out it has been a pain for me , do you have another spare emissions cap off you would part with
if you are talking about the air injection system , then it can be disabled buy using a simple glass marble - watch the video I made called "stopping the pop"
Very nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
I bought a used 94 vulcan 1500 a couple weeks ago and I'm learning to ride on it but it has such a loud ticking noise in the engine mostly in 1st and 2nd gear and it's really scared me sounds like the cam chain slap you're talking about, big thanks 👍
The early Vulcans had a different motor, so Im not sure what cam chain tensioners they have - but most motors have an extender available which is a short term cure to the chain slap and not a big deal to fit. If I was you I would go on the forums and as the collective experts on your problem.
@@ThePonkster awesome, thank you so much for the info and the speedy reply.
Crazy stuff, but good to know. Thanks. Now I understand my bike a little bit better. Could do without any background music though.
Thanks
I fixed the problem with loud pipes
I must admit as I get older I have started to put the baffles back in with some of my bikes - I like a loud pipe but I'm not a fan of "ear bleeders" anymore ! Thanks for your comment 👍
This video bought you another subscriber 😂.
Damn good and informative video 🙌
great information.
I'm glad it was helpful- I don't do Vulcan videos these days but you may find the older ones of use
THANKS; new subsciber from Edmundston, N.B. Canada
I'm glad I could help - thanks for the Sub and the comment 😀👍
@@ThePonkster my pleasure, I love my 2003 VN1600 classic . I already knew she was built noisy, and have no intention off changing anything right now. Confirmation of the commonality is always nice. I have to say I love the look of your scooter. Cheers
I have 1996 1500 Vulcan classic with carbs and runs find.
Well done, the carbed 1500s can be a dog to get running well.
I have a 2001 vn1500E with 13,000 miles. the emissions junk has all been removed.. Has a hypercharger, v&h drag pipes. And been jetted. Mine runs great also.. And no unusual noises.. Loads of low end torque. Better be holding on when you open er up..
Ponkster i need help brother.
Fan good
New radiator cap
New Cam shaft adjuster's
Oil change new gas
Coolent flush.
Carb clean out
New plugs
My exhaust pipes getting red hot when starting n a tapping carb side sound like it's coming from behind carb
That sounds bad Salvatore, I have to remind you I am not a bike mechanic and you probably should get a qualified one to look at at it - they are worth paying for in situations like this. That being said here is my unqualified opinion which you can choose to listen to if you wish. Glowing headers are often a sign of a bike running way too lean (too much air) , so a good start would be to check for any air leaks between the carb and the motor. Also if you have had the carb apart I would double check it is back together properly as a wrongly assembled carb could cause this - if you could "borrow anther carb from somewhere you could use this to "rule out " the carb as the cause. I hope this helps and you get it running well again.
Great video, mate. My vulcan was as loud as a diesel truck. cam chain tensioners were replaced and now sounds like a valve tap. I'm quite frustrated.
They are a funny motor - if it was a car it would be a "turn the radio up" motor , my pipes and an amount of self conditioning means I dont hear its weird noises anymore 😂 Thanks for your comment .
@@ThePonkster what do you think of trying some sort of oil additive to quiet her down?
I’ve got a weird one, I’ve got a sort of ticking/chirping, mostly at highway speeds while on the throttle “Under a load”. Along with the chirping”” it seems to have a loss of power and the fi light comes on when I stay on the throttle while it happens. Any idea?
I cant say I've come across that one - I think it sounds like a fueling issue (imo) , I would start by checking the obvious stuff like a restricted air filter and ducting or a kinked or pinched fuel line .
Awesome video. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for your comment
Good video - I also use the same style "special tool" as you have for the spark plug tubes :-)
Improvise , adapt and overcome was what I was always taught 🤣- thanks for your comment
@@ThePonkster Exactly so. Before I found the old box spanner I actually used a plastic handle from an old dustpan & brush, it didn't have quite the correct profile but it did the job!
That special tool is in my tool kit from the bike. Same tool to get the axle bolt out
Love the bars on your Vulacn, a bit like beach bars..is it all commonly available bar stuff you have used? I've been told it's impossible to put beach type bars on the mean streak due to the type of fitting, but you have done it? Do you have a video about them? Thanks for all the great content!
I dont have a video - but its easy enough but quite costly. I have had Apes and wide beach bars on this bike. You need to remove the original bars, fit generic 1" bar risers of the height you require, then fit the bars you choose. Big bars will also require you to replace the clutch and brake lines which you will have to make or have made as they are not readily available. you will also most likely have to have made up longer throttle cable which are also not easy to get "off the shelf". For a clean look I also routed the electrics inside the bars which requires you to cut the wiring loom and extend the wiring using specific thin wiring loom cable as it is a very tight fit to get them all in. All in all a lot of work but nothing too hard - I hope this helps.
Great advice!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video finally found someone who knows what there doing. I've been looking on CZcams and Kawasaki Vulcan forums. Please im in dire need of help. I Don't have money to take to shop. I need to change rear CCT any help would be appreciated thanks
Doing the cam chain tentioners on the vulcan 1500/1600 is easy as access in not really restricted - while you are in there you would be as well to stick on extenders as the stock ones are a bit short and can run out of adjustment. Here is a great how to from the long dead gadgets page which was the vulcan "go to" back in the mists of time - I hope it helps,
gadgetsfixitpage.com/article.php/cam-chain-tensioner-extenders
Hi I have the kawasaki vn1700 classic Tourer, and it has been sitting in my garage for a year now. I've taken it out for the first time this year and it's popping tapping, and then it losses power, 😢 If I can get my bike to you, would you be able to solve this problem for me. Maybe make a new video for your channel to.
Sorry David the 1700 is a motor I know nothing about - I'm not doing anymore Vulcan content on the channel. I don't work on other peoples bikes, I barely have time to work on my own - I hope you get it sorted.
Very helpful..thank you
Glad it was helpful!
When I purchased my 2006 1600 Vulcan Classic w/Vance Hines pipes and upgraded air filter also Cobra Fi2000.
Should I just tweek pot settings to achieve same results you are mechanically
fixing.
My bike has never seemed to have as much power as I thought it should.
They are not a particularly powerful motor - opening up the air flow and adding a bit more fuel across the range is about as good as you can do without a dyno tuner to see what the motor needs
that was a great video, thanks for the information
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your comment 👍
Hello friend, thanks for your video, is very helpful but i still have a problem. My problem is the mix is very rich and i don't know why, i already clean all the system, the injectors and replace the air filter and remove the solenoids how you show, but the mix is very rich that even smell, so please can you help me to figure out what is happening? Because i think the bike need more air but don't know how to increase the air into the system.
Firstly please remember Im not a mechanic - that being said, how are you determining it is running rich? Smell and a sooty plug is not an accurate way on a fuel injected bike and a dyno is the the only real way to tell. The normal ecu map goes through rich to lean and back to rich. If you bike is running well I wouldn't worry because rich is safe but lean is what can damage you engine. My bike smells quite "rich" when running but I know it is set up correctly - if you are worried get it gas analysed and dynoed.
Good info. Thanks for the help
No problem 👍
Why does my 2006 Vulcan 1600 bog down & die as I’m coming to a stop? If I’m in any gear coming to a stop even with the clutch in? Usually it won’t die, if it’s in neutral. But it definitely bogs out & dies coming to a stop almost every time (in a gear, w clutch in) I usually have to keep revving it to keep it from dying or stalling out. Please share some info if you know why this is.
If the bike is in "stock" set up the air idle solenoids under the right hand "dog bowl" are responsible for the tick over transition - any air leak in any of the multiple pipes in this system can cause problems with the transition to tick over. My bike has had the complete system removed and the idle is set by the idle adjustment knob.
Loving this video content
Thanks - unfortunately I don't think there will be anymore Vulcan videos in the future.
The best remedy for noisy cam chain tappet ticking etc is top the engine oil up. Dead giveaway when my VN starts getting noisy its oil is low. Pity the d-head engineer put the sight glass in a bad spot.
They soon let you know if the oil is low.The cam chain tentioner are also way too short and run out of adjustment with even the slightest chain stretch - the tentioner extenders are a cheap solution
You can add the vn2000 engine!
I'll take your word for it Juan - not a motor I have ever owned. Thanks for your comment
hi ponkster i changed oil little bit of tan colour in oil also black rubber bits in oil screen need help cheers
I'm no mechanic, but I wouldn't loose sleep over it - that's what the filter screen is for . Keep an eye out for any leaks but it's more than likely sealant oversill coming off a seam. The oil sounds burned which could be down to clutch slippage- change the oil regularly and keep an eye on it
Great and useful video, thanks!
Quick question. Does anyone is familiar why my VN 1500 classic make a cracking noise on the gearing when I shift from 1st to second gear only?
These bikes often have quite an audible "clunk" when they shift between 1st and 2nd but if there is any difficulty getting into gear there could be a gearbox or clutch problem. I had a bent shift fork which resulted in a grinding sound when trying to get into gear. A low worn clutch will make the shift into 1st and 2nd quite harsh and it may go into gear with a bit of a bang as the clutch will not be fully disengaged. Take a look at this video I did about my gearbox issues czcams.com/video/OlbtAsnUVNI/video.html - it was a long time ago so I don't really remember the fine details of what I did but the vids may help.
Could you possibly Make a video about the air filter and how it looks in your Vulcan And what the air filter brand is
It is a 2" spectra car filter, the back plate is the factory standard with all the idle control solenoid removed and the cross over tube removed and the hole blocked off. The cover is a hub cap from a 1950s car with a hole drilled in the centre. The whole set up was a case of trial and error until I found some thing that worked for me.
I've your channel! I have a question I have a 06 1600 nomad with after market exhaust straight pipes no baffles it surges at low rpm like just putting around and I don't know if it has any sort of fuel management system as far as I can tell everything is stock other then the pipes any help would be awesome it's pretty annoying thank you
It could be a number of things, in my experience these motors don't like being ridden at super low revs like a Harley and they get a little jurky. Your idle may be set a little low or you may just be "lugging" it a bit in a too high a gear. I'm not trying to insult your riding skills and abilities - it is just I have had a lot of people say that these motors don't ride at all like a harley motor and they get grumpy if the tick over is set low to make them lope like a HD.
Doesn’t removing the Reed valves kill some of the HP as well?
NO - the reed valves (not to be confused with reed valves in 2 strokes) open when the throttle is closed on over run and allow air to enter the exhaust and create secondary combustion of the unburned fuel (the popping) - you are not making any HP with your throttle closed - so no bearing at all on the HP your bike produces by removing (blocking them) - just a slightly "richer" smelling exhaust and no popping sounds.
Hi! Im Simon from sweden and I am currently doing the same modification on my air intake as you have. At 12:52 in the video you are mentioning the ”breather pipe”. Is that just laying inside or is it hooked up to something?
Awsome video my man!
It was a long time ago when I did the conversion - I think I used the hole which was originally for the pipe that went to the air induction valves (the one that gets marbled) and I used the spare hole run the crank case breather pipe back into the air filter base plate - I THINK !
best of luck
Hey! Great video, I'm pretty clued up with cars and bikes.. I still have a question, I don't want to cause a stir here.. power commanders.. if the open loop system is set to running extremely rich and I've put a straight through v and h exhausts and a ram Air induction.. I take it power commanders just set the engine back to the original fuel air mixture (stupidly rich).. I'm not getting any tell tell signs that the engine is too lean, temps are always good even on good run in summer... is it worth it?
Thats a very controversial question - I know of lots of VN 1500/1600 owners who run pipes and airfilter upgrades with no fuel computer with no issues. My understanding with these motors is they run ok and only start to lean out to the less than desirable levels high up in the rev range. There are a number of other ways (other than the Power Commander) to add a little fuel if you are concerned - and as always remember I am not a mechanic and am an idiot !
@@ThePonkster cheers for the reply. I won't take your words for gospel. I'm in the same boat as you, I'm an idiot with no paperwork who can pick up a spanner.. 😁 I dont want to inject more fuel with it being absolutely necessary.. if it isn't getting burnt in the right place I might aswell burn pound notes.. my opinion on these systems is that they are pretty pointless systems.. anything that fools with an existing pwm circuit is causing potential grief later on.. do you know where I can read up on fixing the fuel ratios further up the revs?
@@MrBassman5000 The Vulcan forums are a good start - many people will give a lot of "generic" advice about fuelling, so all I can say is do your research and check your sources if you can. A dyno with gas analysis is the only sure fire way of knowing what your bikes fuelling is doing.
@@ThePonkster cheers dude! Ride safe! I'll sign up now.
Ponkster, you're a little different. Most shade tree mechanics posting on you tube don't believe knowing what they are talking about is a necessary criteria before posting. So is this your only bike? Does your knowledge base run any deeper than the 1500 Vulcan lets say over to my Vulcan the VN-2000? I would love to hear you talk about that motors but alas it has virtually nothing in common with the other Vulcan motors.
My experience of the wonderful VN2K is having riden one a couple of times - that's it! Oh and don't be fooled, I'm an idiot making it up as I go along 🤣
Thank you for this information. Just got a 2006 Vulcan 1600. Very noisy engine. Was working the engine was worn out or loosing compression or oil pressure, but the oil pressure light wasn’t on. Also worried by how rich it runs. Black smoke definitely comes out of my pipes visibly and the exhaust pipes are pretty coated up with black shit.
Still need to do an oil change & fresh spark plugs and some really good gas, maybe run higher octane, fuel stabilizer or sea foam.
My bike does bog down & shut off when coming to a stop if I don’t keep the revs up. Any idea??? Also my throttle cable seems to stick open when my handle bars are turned to the right. Not good.
These bike do run quite rich from the factory - the octane of the fuel will have no effect on this. The bike will always thank you for an oil and filter change and some fresh fuel.
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
Hoping for a clarification on something. If you disconnect the wires from those solenoids but don't remove the solenoids themselves, will they stay closed and do the job of blocking off those little air pipes?
TBH I have no idea.
So you can get rid of the cross over?
Yes - people have used numerous way all which are quite brutal if not doing it with the motor out the frame - the best method I have found is with great care heat up the cross over tube with a HOT AIR GUN by blowing air through it untill it soften and then pull it out gripping it with some vice pliers ( obviously after all the fixings are removed ) - pleas like and sub for more vulcan content
Thanks so much, I know this is a year old, but hoping you still look at comments. Is this video also true with the VN2000 motor?
I have had very little exposure to the 2 litre Vulcan - what I do know is they have no bevel drive issues because they use a completely different drive system as for the rest I do not know - sorry I cant be anymore help. Thanks for the comment.
Yes! Vn2000 x2 same shit!
Hi, my Meanstreak is a 1500, totally stock with no modifications, want to keep it that way as I like my neighbours. BUT, could you tell me please, if I remove the air injection stuff off the heads and fit blanking plates, will this quiet the motor or do any good? Have already done the marbling to the hose..but wondering if removing all together will help quiet this stock, noisy beast? Talking about mechanical engine noise. Thank You very much!
Marbeling does the same as fitting blanking plates - as for making it a "quiet bike" - I think you have got the wrong bike ! If your bike is stock standard with the original stock exhaust it should be pretty quiet - how quiet do you think a Vtwin 1500 motor is?
Thumbs up video very good
Thanks for the visit
First comment 94 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 88 series when I first started up sounds like it's knocking pull in the clutch it disappears then goes away when warmed up, second instead of installing the block off plates for the read valves I left them in and just kept them off I'm not sure if that's the right thing but somebody told me it would work instead of putting on the plates, am I correct in assuming I can cap off all the vacuums on the carburetors except for the one going to the IC igniter, third I have a constant vibration at 20 mph in first gear 30 mph in second gear 40 mph to 3rd gear I got rid of most of it by deleting the emissions don't know where to go next, any kind of help you can provide me with would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for your comment , before I attempt to answer your questions please bear in mind I'm just a dude who likes Vulcans and am no way a mechanic . 1. yep the clutches can be noisy when cold and Im not sure why - as long as it functions and doesn't drag or slip I would be tempted to leave it alone. 2 Im not sure about the carb version but on the FI models the cheap way of block of plate is done by blocking the pipe with a glass marble - which works just as well as the block off plates which are mostly for the ascetics. 3 A vibration that is at a set speed in each gear seems to be related to engine revs and not road speed which tends to rule out drive line and gearbox - it could be a worn bearing on one of the internal shafts leading to a slight wobble at a certain revolution - sorry I cant be more specific
@@ThePonkster it's a start,I really appreciate the response,I figure if you work on your own bike then you'll know more about the quirks than a tech., he's out to make money, you're being helpful because you can,my next check is between the balance gear and balance weight are these rubber like dampners, possibly causing my issues, anyway thanks for your time,
respectfully Tom
Rap the motor in an electric blanket to help the warming process of the oil before cold starts.
Nice in theory - problem is I have no power at my garage. I'm not that precious about the motor -I just don't rev it until its warmed up a bit and the oil has got up to the rockers which doesn't take long.
@@ThePonkster I was joking hahaha!
I am in the process of removing the air idle selinods, I've watched your videos many times. My question is, on the bottom of the right side there is an air output. Do i need to block that too
I am not sure where you mean - the bottom right hand side of where - the engine or the airfilter housing?
@@ThePonkster the bottom of the air box. It appears to be an output or vent of some sort
Also, once I didbthe mod, marbled, idle air removed and blocked off. The bike was not happy starting cold. Am I missing something?
@@rudynatvicepresident5824 marbling wont affect cold start, but an airleak from the idle solinoid circuit will - if they are removed check you have a good tight seal on the small pipes they connected to
What diameter screws did you use? One of mine has a rubber sleeve over it, one is uncovered.
Im not sure what you mean Kevin - screw for what ?
@@ThePonkster For the vacuum lines. My 07 mean streak has one capped off and the other isn't. I capped it and my bike wouldn't start. The idle screw turns to the left, but idle doesn't fluctuate.
@@PigeonMan5000 tbh I just tried a load until I got one that was a tight fit then put a hose clip round for good measure - you dont want one of these coming off and going down your throttle bodies
Hey what air filter is that ? I have a VN1600B
Its not a bike filter - its a 2" spectra V8 car filter with a wolsley 1940s car hubcap as a cover. I have used the original backplate and have neoprene sealing tape to pug any small air leaks - not a "plug and play" solution but I like quirky ideas.
penjelasan yg sangat baik trimakasih saudara
Sama-sama - silakan tinggalkan komentar dalam bahasa Inggris sehingga semua orang dapat membacanya
Hello Ponkster. Great Video!!! I have subscribed to your channel. I have a question that i hope you can help with. In the last day or 2 my 1600 nomad has a rattling sound coming from the front( it sounds like it is in the front cyinder)It is constant when i accelerate and when i idle. But, when i clutch in and go to down shift it goes away. I have not tried looking at it the bike (Myrtle) is just sitting right now. Any advice would be helpful!! Thank you!!!
In my opinion it is very hard to find the location of an engine sound when riding a bike - I would suggest jacking the back end up and CAREFULLY running through the gears and with a helper try to find the location of the noise. If your sound disappears when the clutch is pulled in it does point to it being a gearbox /clutch issue.
May I have a question? I just installed the chain tensioner extensions of both of the chains. I also completely removed the vacuum tubes from the idle solenoids and filled the holes. I want to make the same intake upgrade as you did just to remove the tunnel and the left side filter. I'm just thinking about removing the whole system as you are talking about it in 20:50, so my question is, would it be okay when I remove it with the stock exhaust? I want to change the exhaust too on my 1500 nomad, but in the future. I thought that since I got my whole throttle body outside, I could do it now, because disassembling it is kind of pain in the ass so I don't wanna do the whole process again. Thank you for you reply. I really appreciate your videos :)
hope you understand what I'm trying to say due to my english :D
I dont see any problem with doing it with a stock exhaust - all the upgrade does really is give a straighter path to the air and give a cooler air charge. There are lots of theories on how to get out the plastic cross over tube, with some people doing terrible things with power saws! I removed the tube by removing all the securing bolts and then heated it internally on the throttle body side with a hot air gun until it softened - then grabbed it with some mole grips and pulled it out - don't set fire to the bike!!!!!
@@ThePonkster Thanks a lot, I will make the covers and dismount it. Thank you again :)
Can you do a video on your air intake / air filter. Was the crossover tube removed ?
Yes the crossover tube was removed - no I wont be making anymore vulcan videos.
Great video, good info, I have many more questions if I could contact you? Bike is currently dismantled, engine out due to oil leak and oil replacing water.
Just read in the other comments that you're not a mechanic? You've missed your calling, you explanation in the video was very clear, I would still appreciate your opinion when you have time thanks
I'll give it my best shot - what you having problems with ?
Big thumbs up to you great info good job catch you later
Thanks for your comment
BUT THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS SALUT
Thanks - I,m glad you enjoyed the video.
G day
I have watch a couple of you videos. I am now subscribed. I have a 97 1500. Are you able to tell me where to get the coasters from please. If not I will make them.
Thanks for the info. I will check out more.
Cheers
From South Yunderup Western Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks for the sub. There is a guy in the US called chuckster who sells the coasters, you also see them on ebay from time to time.chucksterscustoms.com/product/kawasaki-coaster-plates/
Are the 1700 motors of a similar design with these issues?
I know very little about the 1700 motor, but I believe it is a totally different motor that I am sure has its own quirks
does this information apply to the vn2000 as well ?
NO - the VN200 is a very different beast which I know very little about.
How about marbling a vulcan VN900 with co2 sensors?
I haven't worked on the 900 (why its not mentioned in the video), how ever the air injection and the O2 sensors work in different ways and I believe the air injection can be disabled without effecting the closed loop work of the O2 sensors. How you go about removing or blocking the air injection on the 900 I do not know, but I am sure the Vulcan forums will be full of useful help.
@@ThePonkster Thanks for your quick reply👍🏻
Hi does this cover the 1600 mean streak, cheers.
Yes Jamie, other than a few minor dfferences they are the same beast
Would of been lot more helpful having sound examples on each popping ticking
Yes I agree - I sorted issues when they occurred over a long period of time and making a video wasn't always top of my priorities - I'm sure someone else has taken the trouble to film their sick vulcan so feel free to get your help elsewhere if you so wish. Oh and as I have said before - I'm an idiot and don't take anything I do as advice!
Do you have a business with a phone number or a email that I can talk to you one on one. My 2002 Kawasaki 1500 nomad has me ready to roll it out in the yard and burn it.
Im not sure why this comment has only just appeared - but no I don't run a business as I'm just an idiot with a shed blindly fumbling through the vulcan problems
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
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🏍🏍🏍🏍🏍👍💖💯😎⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
😄😄😄🏍️🏍️🏍️🏍️🏴☠️🏴☠️🏴☠️
I finally got my bike back yesterday. $1000 later, still sounds horrible! Drove it 10 minutes and all the transmission fluid leaked out? I get back to the garage, guy says we didn’t even work on that side? It must be something else? They didn’t realize when they put my foot shifter back, it was in a different position? I told the owner, he looked at his mechanic, mechanic looks back and says yes we did take that side apart!!! Caught the owner in a lie! Bike is back there for day 19. The ticking is as bad as ever! It’s embarrassing stopping at a red light. This is my first bike. Only had a license for 6 months. Love riding. This ordeal is killing me.
Thanks for the replies.
You really should get a manual about these bikes as they are very different from Harleys - they don't use transmission fluid and don't have a separate gearbox - the engine oil also lubes the gearbox and clutch. If you don't know the bike any crook can rip you off - work on it yourself and learn how to diagnose problems.
Dose this also apply to the 2007 Vulcan 2000. The 2053cc beast.
nope
I just walked away from a beautiful 2002 Vulcan 1500 main Streak the tapping was so obvious and loud I didn't trust it. ughh!
There is always a risk buying a twenty year old bike - probably good to go with your gut feelings I find!
You said the valves are self adjusting? My mechanic was going to charge me $500 to adjust them!?!?
The VN 1500 and 1600 have hydraulic tappets which are self adjusting -I recommend you get a workshop manual and even if you are not doing the work it may help you not get ripped off!
Found out my horrible noise was a clutch bearing? Did my cam chain tensioner and oil change and the noise got twice as loud!! Hoping this ends it? Only really bad part, is the only mechanic I can find to work on it is a lazy dishonest dirtbag! Doesn’t stick to his estimates on time or money! Been there 18 days now for a two hour job!?! This is seriously ridiculous!
Sounds like time to learn how to do it yourself - you will always get humped if you pay to have it done IMO
Just bought my first bike. 2001 Vulcan 1500 nomad. Runs perfect. Sounds terrible! I can’t afford to have someone rebuild the entire engine!?! Im screwed!
Don't waste time worrying about what "might" happen - just go with the flow of owning old bikes : Ride it * Brake it* Fix it !