I go with PETG to 240-245°C and bed around 75°C, First 3 layers no fan, then mostly above 60% in open printer. First layer is around 15% to 30% speed, depending on size of the print (much smaller print tend to be "soft" when they start second layer). What definitely needs to be done is good leveling and Z distance. I had several times too squished first layer and it just didn't fell off. For PETG I actually like to be a bit higher than necessary to avoid that squish and have good separation from bed (I destroyed me previous non PEI bed by PETG). Good video. I hate that I love PETG
PETG is one of my favorite materials, as it has a much better heat resistance than PLA, and if you print it at a decent temperature the layer bonding is very strong.
I have a temp tower in black Inland brand PETG+ that ranges from 220° to 260°. The filament was very dry, I always dry new spools and then store in a drybox. The tower incorporates 35° slope, 45° slope, points, bridges, multiple curves, and round holes from both the horizontal and vertical directions at each level. I honestly cannot tell what temp I should use because it looks identical and printed perfect from the bottom (220°) all the way to the top (260°) with no drooping, and very little stringing. So now I just print at 240° because it is in the middle somewhere.
PETG usually costs the same as PLA, but that's mostly because filament manufacturers take PLA's price as a baseline and then give more "advanced" filaments a higher price. Both PETG and ABS are considerably cheaper to produce than PLA, and in some markets you can get those commodity plastics cheaper from local manufacturers.
It’s true. Have you heard about slant 3D and their campaign to bring down the cost of filament? They’re doing PLA for $15 per spool using 100 percent virgin PLA and black pigment. No regrind and it’s very consistent. They’re aiming to have it down to $10 eventually hoping to drive the market toward commodity pricing instead of simply a profit based model
@@KeoPrints they are still using PLA, which is a fundamentally expensive base material. Pellets are like 2x as expensive as PETG and ABS. In Russia, locally made PLA filament goes as low as $12-13 per spool already, but PETG? The absolute rock bottom cheapest spool is six bucks. It's sketchy, comes with no spool and no pigment, but nevertheless it prints, doesn't jam and it costs less than a kilo of raw PLA pellets. A good new spool of PETG is $8-9, ABS too.
Dang dude. I have to do some more testing. Kory and I were talking about seeing how low we could get away with printing it. Maybe I’ll give it a shot and post my results.
it's only slightly harder to print, supports are the main thing that suck about printing PETG. PLA is TERRIBLE for warping in summer heat, I won't use PLA for anything unless it's going to stay inside and nowhere near a sunny window. PETG is great for anything that need to be structurally sound and cheap. I basically use Nylon whenever I can and if I need to print cheap stuff I go with PETG.
I also don't turn off my part colling fan with PETG, only with Nylon. A lot of the info in this video is just way off. I wish the dislike button was back at times like this
@@WindedWalruss93 I have a P1S, X1C and several other printers. PETG is great for many things, however it has some absolute weaknesses and if you aren't aware of them, then you don't print very much or aren't printing the types of models where PETG's weaknesses make it a liability. Overhangs are a big problem no matter what printer you have.
Ive been printing solely on petg since i embarked on my 3d printing journey. Nozzle temp at 227 is usually great for any brand. Like always, print a temp tower to determine your ideal temperature for your needs. Never. Never. Never print petg on glass. Potential to forever stick, breaking your glass.
I go with PETG to 240-245°C and bed around 75°C, First 3 layers no fan, then mostly above 60% in open printer. First layer is around 15% to 30% speed, depending on size of the print (much smaller print tend to be "soft" when they start second layer). What definitely needs to be done is good leveling and Z distance. I had several times too squished first layer and it just didn't fell off. For PETG I actually like to be a bit higher than necessary to avoid that squish and have good separation from bed (I destroyed me previous non PEI bed by PETG). Good video. I hate that I love PETG
Good stuff. I’m glad I’m not the only one wrecking print beds
How you guys have so few subscribers is insane. Greta video, love the conversational dynamic and very informative 👍👍👍
Haven’t been on the scene too long but we are certainly giving it a go. Thanks for the feedback!
PETG is one of my favorite materials, as it has a much better heat resistance than PLA, and if you print it at a decent temperature the layer bonding is very strong.
Agreed. I think I’m going to mess around with more varied printing temps and see what happens
PETG on my Ender 3 V2 NEO prints wonderful, 240c nozzle 70c bed, Overture pro PETG
I've been trying to print with ASA, ABS and MABS and bloody hate them. I love PLA but will now try PETG Prusament to see if it's worth it.
Yea we are planning to cover ASA coming up. It is definitely a different beast isn’t it
I print elegoo rapid petg at 240/70. Works perfectly. From my experience, it prints better than any pla I've ever used.
Dang better than PLA? That’s pretty good
@@KeoPrints It's quite honestly the best filament I've ever used.
I print Creality black PETG at 230
Even that seems low but I am just now starting to really mess with it. What speeds are you doing at that temp?
@@KeoPrints I have an old CR-10 with a Bowden setup, so I’m printing at 15mm/s
I have a temp tower in black Inland brand PETG+ that ranges from 220° to 260°. The filament was very dry, I always dry new spools and then store in a drybox. The tower incorporates 35° slope, 45° slope, points, bridges, multiple curves, and round holes from both the horizontal and vertical directions at each level. I honestly cannot tell what temp I should use because it looks identical and printed perfect from the bottom (220°) all the way to the top (260°) with no drooping, and very little stringing. So now I just print at 240° because it is in the middle somewhere.
I kind of had a similar experience tuning in a green overture PETG. It just seems to be an agreeable, compliant material to print. Pretty crazy really
petg is probably one of the best filaments to work with especially since rapid petg you can print it at the same speed as PLA
I think I might agree with you. PLA is pretty good but PETG is so easy to use now. It almost doesn’t make sense to use anything else now
I love PETG. It holds up better to the AZ summers! 95% of what i print is something functional, so it's also helpful with that
That makes sense. Probably don’t have to worry about it soaking up humidity there either I suppose. Seems like a good option
I typically print overture PETG at 245c.
That tracks. What speeds are you running that temp at? It makes sense that the Bambu default is higher since it’s moving the material quicker
I've accidentally printed PETG using PLA profiles a couple times. Though with my printer I find printing PETG far easier then PLA...
Interesting take. What kind of printer are you seeing those results on? That’s pretty cool
this video made me a little less rigid...
PETG usually costs the same as PLA, but that's mostly because filament manufacturers take PLA's price as a baseline and then give more "advanced" filaments a higher price. Both PETG and ABS are considerably cheaper to produce than PLA, and in some markets you can get those commodity plastics cheaper from local manufacturers.
It’s true. Have you heard about slant 3D and their campaign to bring down the cost of filament? They’re doing PLA for $15 per spool using 100 percent virgin PLA and black pigment. No regrind and it’s very consistent. They’re aiming to have it down to $10 eventually hoping to drive the market toward commodity pricing instead of simply a profit based model
@@KeoPrints they are still using PLA, which is a fundamentally expensive base material. Pellets are like 2x as expensive as PETG and ABS.
In Russia, locally made PLA filament goes as low as $12-13 per spool already, but PETG? The absolute rock bottom cheapest spool is six bucks. It's sketchy, comes with no spool and no pigment, but nevertheless it prints, doesn't jam and it costs less than a kilo of raw PLA pellets. A good new spool of PETG is $8-9, ABS too.
275????!??! Bruh I print beautifully at 225° we must have different flavors of petg
Dang dude. I have to do some more testing. Kory and I were talking about seeing how low we could get away with printing it. Maybe I’ll give it a shot and post my results.
depends on how fast you are printing and what kind of hotend you got
@kypdurron6168 I'm printing 225c between 300 and 500mms with petg and get great results, great layer adhesion, and no stringing.
Guys about 11 years late to this video
Dang it! I’ll try harder next time!
240 bed 80 fan 40% 2x4010 use glue stick, to make if more awesome. i have an Ender 7 :P (Sovol drybox 50c 6 hours before printing) GLASS ender bed :P
I used to be a glass print bed only kind of guy but these Bambu machines have made me a believer. So good
it's only slightly harder to print, supports are the main thing that suck about printing PETG. PLA is TERRIBLE for warping in summer heat, I won't use PLA for anything unless it's going to stay inside and nowhere near a sunny window. PETG is great for anything that need to be structurally sound and cheap. I basically use Nylon whenever I can and if I need to print cheap stuff I go with PETG.
I also don't turn off my part colling fan with PETG, only with Nylon. A lot of the info in this video is just way off. I wish the dislike button was back at times like this
I’ve had similar experiences with PLA and those hot summer days
how low can you go... ROFL
That Kory guy is a goof
I love PETG, I also hate PETG.
I’m learning to love it
Petg is the best out there. If you dislike petg then you need another printer
@@WindedWalruss93 I have a P1S, X1C and several other printers. PETG is great for many things, however it has some absolute weaknesses and if you aren't aware of them, then you don't print very much or aren't printing the types of models where PETG's weaknesses make it a liability. Overhangs are a big problem no matter what printer you have.
It’s true. It’s great for some stuff but certainly has weaknesses like any other filament
Water bottles are PET, not PETG, so he's 75% correct.
You are correct. We speak about that in the video before this one a bit more. Good stuff!
Ive been printing solely on petg since i embarked on my 3d printing journey.
Nozzle temp at 227 is usually great for any brand. Like always, print a temp tower to determine your ideal temperature for your needs.
Never. Never. Never print petg on glass. Potential to forever stick, breaking your glass.
Please keep video shorter than 10m, better 7m
Heck no dude. More long is less short
@@KeoPrints what do you mean ?
When it's longer than 10m, there's no patience to watch