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I did this upgrade, put it all together and no filament would come out.. took it all apart and did it all again. Still wont print at all. I gave up and just bought a new ender 3 with direct drive for $80 on marketplace. Very frustrating.

I think in order for this to be effective and a viable solution the slicer would have to be revamped to be able to display what the resulting G-Code will be when changing all these factors. In other words show you where all the bleed is going to happen then you can work on manipulating it

Say hey to queso for me

0:12 I can relate so much!!! Two kittens and a lady who is the best, but loves practicing Spanish and keeping our house clean. Half the time I'm recording I'm just sitting waiting for a Lull. Edit: thought you were the dude that is making a custom AMS my bad!! But that's definitely a compliment

Micro poop is a improvement. I have nothing else I can add. I only have enders so I can't test any of this

[laughs in hueforge]

so i was thinking about doing this myself. the approach i was going to take was by using two units at opposite ends (towards each side) with penetration's through the floor of the AMS, but honestly now looking at the python MOD, and i would integrate the same approach into the new AMS build. i do have a question though. is there a way to purchase JUST the base unit (kit) with out the box? (of the polymaker dryer)

I would suggest making the ducting about 2 inches round where it connect to the ams, you could then use a 2 inch hole saw and a drill to make quick work of making the holes. Then design a bracket to hold the dryer on the side of the ams

Hi. There appears to be some confusion regarding how the process of drying filament can be undertaken. Maybe a little clarification would be helpful. Relative humidity measures water vapour, but RELATIVE to the temperature of the air. It is expressed as the amount of water vapour in the air, as a percentage of the total amount that could be held, at its current temperature. Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air, meaning that the relative humidity of cold air would be far higher than that of warm air, given that the ABSOLUTE HUMIDITY levels were equal. If a spool of filament containing moisture, is put into a sealed container containing the desiccant Silica Gel, the moisture will slowly be liberated, and absorbed by the desiccant. If the air is heated, the process of evaporation will be increased and this will reduce the time taken to ‘dry’ the filament. Once the relative humidity falls to an acceptable level, say 12%, the spool can safely be removed from the container. The filament will then slowly start to reabsorb moisture. However, if the spool is put into a sealed container, an AMS containing desiccant would be ideal 😉. The desiccant in the AMS will absorb any moisture, and the relative humidity will remain constant. To release the moisture, in the desiccant, and regenerate it, requires it to be heated to 120 °C for 1 to 2 hours, or 15 minutes at low power, in the microwave. This is evident in my ‘sealed’ AMS, which contains a FULL set of silica gel containers, where the relative humidity remains at 10% If a reel of filament, containing moisture is introduced, the RH temporarily increases, to around 14%, and then drops back to 10%, after a couple of days, due to the desiccant absorbing any moisture. There is no need to heat the air in the AMS. All that needs doing is to monitor the relative humidity in the AMS, and replace the silica gel when it gets to say 15%, with ‘regenerated’ silica gel. The removed silica gel can be regenerated, as described above, and used again. I store open reels of filament in a sealed container containg desiccant, and a hygrometer. When I need a stored reel, I swop it for one in the AMS. Doing this increases the RH slightly, but after a couple of days later it drops back. Cheers Noel.

Thinking I may try this with 2 polydryers and using them as feet for the AMS by cutting holes in the bottom and opening up the 2 desiccant wells to allow air to pass through to the spool area.

I got a PrintDry Filament Dryer PRO3 with the Large Spool Kit for my 5kg spools. But I'm edger to add something like this to my CFS I'm getting. My basement sits are around 40% humidity with a defumidafier for the level running and it get up to 80% humidity during the summer months in my area so all the more need to keep printing areas as dry as possible.

Interesting, but seeing the relative humidity drop as the temp goes up doesn’t really tell us anything useful: hotter air can hold more moisture so the hygrometer is going to show a drop purely from the temperature increase regardless of whether or not any moisture is being driven out of the filament. You need to weigh the spools before and after to see if there has been any actual drying of the filament.

So, for the A1 AMS, I just run the filament directly out of 2x double-roll dryers from Creality through the motors of the A1 Series AMS. That one is super nifty! The Creality dryer boxes show you the moisture levels as well, so you know if you need to turn it on and it has presets for different filaments. The dryers come with tubes and have steel rollers to make this possible without any modifications - the filament will just hang a little loose after being pushed back since the dryer does not automatically respool, but that's just a few inches/centimeters of exposure. For my P1S, yea, right now, I have an additional 2x double dryers from Creality since I liked the first ones and my son has them now for the A1 Mini. I thought about a similar mod - and I thin the ducting could come through the desiccant pouches in the back with a modded undercarriage. Still in the "idea" phase on this.

Nice FYS albums. Subscribed.

It occurs to me that if you properly control the max current (i.e. max temperature), just sticking a silicon bed heater to the bottom of the AMS could be the dead simple hack to heat the enclosure. Thoughts? I just checked, and the bottom is textured, but nicely flat. This could be a pretty simple task for an Arduino or Pi Zero. You would want to be very confident in your temp control so you don't melt the bottom of the AMS. The only wrinkle is you would want some controlled air movement. Hmmm <<< reaches for thinking cap.

Seems like the same idea could be used on the AMS Lite, i.e., sit the whole mechanism inside of a box / tote and connect the dryer to it. The design would be much more effective if you used a pass through air flow system; air comes in one side and goes out the opposite side as well as using round bulk head fittings.

I think the only other examples I've seen of this idea is the AMS total conversion mod from the guy who designed the Hydra insert for the AMS. Nice work, this seems like a pretty thoughtful approach.

I'd bet that the Spool Hanger is for those small 200kg spools that might not contact the rollers.

im so glad Anycubic's ACE Pro comes with the ability to dry, maybe this will push bambu to have one built in also cool prototype/idea tho!

A simple trick to make cutting templates is to make a drawing from your design (switch from the Design workspace to the Drawing workspace) and print it out on paper. You can also right click a sketch and save it as a DXF. You can print a DXF from Inkscape, or if you're really fancy (and the thing you're cutting fits), you can import the DXF into Lightburn and cut it with a laser instead.

I think this product has a separate electronic dryer that fits underneath the spool holder and can blow in heated, dry air, and suck out the air that came from the spool and presumably has water. That's what the two removable pads on the underside are for. I myself bought the sunlu dryer that has place for 4 spools. And I already have a large amount of vacuum bags that I keep my spools in. And then I have 2 different spool holders that can be used for drying with silicone and feeding a printer. I am not too concerned with transferring a spool from one place to another. Sure, they will start to suck in a little bit of water, but it won't be soaked in the one minute the transfer takes.

Hard to believe bambu never considered making the AMS a dryer combo out the door when they know filaments print better when dryer or pre warmed

Funny guy. 😅

I think you can clean up the look by making some 3D printed grommets to fit into the holes. They would cover the cut/sanded edges and perhaps could also make cutting the holes a lot easier by allowing you to cut a simple circular hole but have the grommet adapt it to the exact shape of your ducting. Definitely going to do this to mine when I can.

I saw a polydryer mounted to the lid. I plan to copy that. BUT if a guy was skillful at modeling things couldnt one make a new lid that houses the polydryer? I doesnt need to be round like the factory one. are the lids available from Bambu if I chop this one up and decide I hate the damage and want to go back to stock

I like to print my TPU with the bed at 0 and then crank it up to 50 or 60 to peel it off. Enjoying your content!

Subscribed! You narrate the same way my brain does but you're more eloquent 😂. F SUPPORTS!!

New subscriber here. I'm really liking the laid-back vibe of your videos and just all-around entertaining content. Side note, did I see a 3d printed map of Liberty City on your wall? If yes, please share where you found the file.

Hi. I must admit that the combination of an AMS and a PolyDrier is a good idea in principle. However, perhaps it might have been a good idea to have done some research, prior to jumping in. No matter, it’s going to be very easy to overcome the problem. This can be achieved by printing desiccant containers, there are many on MakerWorld, and filling them with colour changing regenerative silica gel. I have 7 in mine, 5 in the front, and 2 in the rear. These keep the relative humidity in the AMS at 10%. As has been mentioned by others in this thread, there’s more to it than just drilling a couple of holes. Perhaps an understanding of basics might help. RH is the ratio of how much water vapour is in the air, (hence %), how much water vapour air could potentially contain at a given temperature. It varies with the temperature of the air, colder air can contain less vapour. Therefore changing the temperature of air changes the RH, even when the Absolute Humidity remains constant, i.e. the amount of moisture in the air stays the same. If the temperature drops the relative humidity, will increase. Silica Gel (SG) in the AMS will retain the moisture, and the RH will stay the same. To release the water, and regenerate the SG, it needs to be heated to 120 °C for 1 to 2 hours, or 15 minutes at low power in the microwave. This is evident in my ‘sealed’ AMS, where the relative humidity remains at 10% If a reel of filament, containing moisture is introduced, the RH temporarily increases, and then decreases again, due to the SG absorbing the moisture, as the temperature drops. There is no real need to heat the chamber. However, if it is heated the process of evaporation and absorption by the SG will be quicker. All that needs doing is to monitor the RH, and replace the silica gel with ‘regenerated’ silica gel, and then dry the removed silica gel. I store open reels of filament in a sealed container, which contains SG, and a hygrometer. When I need a stored reel, I swop it for one in the AMS. Doing this increases the RH slightly, but a couple of days later they drop back. Cheers Noel.

Benkrou on Makerworld also made a version with this, with the polydryer on top of the AMS. He has a template to make it easier to cut out the holes to attach and also even pieces to close it up when removing the dryer

I did some calculations and your test has actually increased the water content in the air. 60% @ 71F (15.5C) = 6.62 g/kg (h2o per kg air) 43% @ 83F (28.3C) = 10.55 g/kg (h2o per kg air) But those hydrometers aren't very linear especially with lower humditity levels (esp around 40%). Also doesn't mean the things inside the ams haven't lost water.

Oooohhh, that's the GTAIV map! I thought it was NYC, lol. I knew it looked familiar.

you're awesome

Might have been mentioned - but what where does the condensation/moisture go? Should a small hole be added to the top or bottom somewhere?

Subbed and definitely watching this. Had an idea and executed.

And if you model the holes round… and use the drill to cut them…

Looks nice, but I am not sure that *all* the internals of the AMS would be able to withstand the higher temperatures required to dry some filaments over an extended period of time. If I had a polydryer, I'd just fit it on a larger box than the polymaker one.

Please tell me more about that presumably 3d printed map on your wall.

I'm using the creality space pi. It works great.

So not really good for mixed filament types (e.g ASA and PLA in the AMS). Follow up video would be interesting after some longer usage. All those rolls of filament (the actual filament) are going to need be raised to ~80C - how long did it take? How are the PLA parts holding up to the heat?

Antonio Alemar posted a couple videos about this around 3 weeks ago. I like your idea, but it doesn't allow for moisture removal. The same with his before his update video.

Sorry but you didn't take hardly any moisture out of the filament. All you did is heat the air in the AMS which increased the amount of water the air can hold (decreased relative humidity). Without the silica to absorb the water the humidity world return to the same as before. when cooled. 2 steps needed to dry filament 1 - heat the filament long enough at the right temp that it releases moisture ( different filaments have different temps and times) 2 - absorb the moisture either while it is hot or as it is cooling. Silica is much more hygroscopic than filament and can absorb lots per weight so it absorbs moisture quicker than the filament can reabsorb it. Keeping new filament in a low humidity chamber while printing still helps with hygroscopic filaments such as PC etc.

Would be a far better idea not to damage the AMS on the process. Why not just making a wedge shaped adapter that fits between the lid and the body of the AMS? This way it can attached temporarily for drying out a AMS while at the same time not damaging it. Well I guess I now have an idea what I can do when my Poly Dryer arrives next week..

Check out the Python AMS mod. The replacement enclosure is designed to have up to 4 dryers attached to it. It uses a retaining ring pressed onto the dryer from the inside of the enclosure, though the recommendation is to add VHB to the dryer, as well.

“Why don’t I just use the AMS as a dry box?” Um, it is a dry box. That’s why it has seals and desiccant packs. So that it is airtight and stays dry. 🤦‍♂️

shout out to the @mightycarmods mat and the 88s shirt

You really don't want to just circulate air in a dryer, the hot air can carry more moisture than cold and you really want that moisture to leave the dryer. There is a mod I saw on makerworld that blows hot air through the AMS and vents it out which would do that. Personally I use an "Ivation 6 Tray Countertop Digital Food Dehydrator". $99 from AMZN, it will hold 2 spools and it vents out the top to remove moisture. It works great even for PA6-GF.

Love some quick prototyping of a nifty idea. Keep it up!!

Hopefully When its all done we can get an STL?

Fantastic idea. I was wondering how this could be done. Wondering if changing the input to a circle so you can use O rings of some type