Fantastic learning, as always, Keith! You definitely take a lot of the fear out of doing these repairs and I always learn a lot from your videos. Greatly appreciated, thank you!!
When you use rope, make sure a knot would be smaller than the spark plug hole. i did this on cylinder two, and the rope knotted on itself!!! Tried everything, but eventually had to take the head off to get the rope out..... Tool works great.
Nice vid as usual. Couldn't help but notice the gen 1 CRX with what look like Ronal R10 wheels. I've been a Honda Tech since '84 and remember installing a Mugen body kit and wheels on a first gen CRX , an HF if you can believe it.
Would putting the piston for whatever valves your working on at the top of its stroke be a viable option too? As opposed to putting rope in the combustion chamber, or using a leak down tester
It sounds like your engine is burning something it shouldn't. Start with easy stuff first: Compression test, leak down test, are your spark plugs super oily, etc. Try to find something out of the ordinary.
To prelube / pressurize the oiling system (after a rebuild): remove oil pressure sending unit (next to oil filter). Force 2-3 quarts into the 1/4 NPT hole. I use a HFT paint pressure pot. $89 well spent, it has other uses when combined with a vac pump.
Without the tool, it will be considerably more difficult. If you're doing it with the head in place - regardless of the tool - you'll need something to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. Either fill the cylinder with compressed air using a leakdown tester or fill the cylinder with rope or something fed through the spark plug hole. We prefer the first option.
Fantastic learning, as always, Keith! You definitely take a lot of the fear out of doing these repairs and I always learn a lot from your videos. Greatly appreciated, thank you!!
This video was a godsend! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
When you use rope, make sure a knot would be smaller than the spark plug hole. i did this on cylinder two, and the rope knotted on itself!!! Tried everything, but eventually had to take the head off to get the rope out..... Tool works great.
Oh yikes. That's learning the hard way.
Nice vid as usual. Couldn't help but notice the gen 1 CRX with what look like Ronal R10 wheels. I've been a Honda Tech since '84 and remember installing a Mugen body kit and wheels on a first gen CRX , an HF if you can believe it.
That's a proper 1985 Si in the background.
I definitely need that tool, makes the way I've been doing this process seems prehistoric.
Great tool. Looks far easier to use than the 'for any engine' types I've seen. And takes up a lot less space to boot.
Thanks for the lesson.👍
Quick question, Will I need to buy new keepers for new valves? I assume the old keepers have been “bedded in” by the old valves, thanks!
There's no relative movement involved so there should be no wear. No need to pick up new keepers!
Awesome video thanks 🙏🏾
Thanks for watching!
Would putting the piston for whatever valves your working on at the top of its stroke be a viable option too? As opposed to putting rope in the combustion chamber, or using a leak down tester
That will allow the valves to fall partway into the cylinder before they make contact. Too far down to be useful.
My 92 smokes on start up but then quits once it warms up.? Any ideas of what it needs .?
It sounds like your engine is burning something it shouldn't.
Start with easy stuff first: Compression test, leak down test, are your spark plugs super oily, etc. Try to find something out of the ordinary.
Any advice on pressurizing the oil system without starting the engine?
Unplug the coils or pull the main relay.
@@FlyinMiataVideo is it good practice to do that after an oil change?
@@tgy119 There's no need. The oil pump should still be primed. If you pre-fill the filter, pressure should come up immediately.
To prelube / pressurize the oiling system (after a rebuild): remove oil pressure sending unit (next to oil filter). Force 2-3 quarts into the 1/4 NPT hole. I use a HFT paint pressure pot. $89 well spent, it has other uses when combined with a vac pump.
Any tips or advice for doing this on an ND2 without the tool and the head in place??
Without the tool, it will be considerably more difficult.
If you're doing it with the head in place - regardless of the tool - you'll need something to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder. Either fill the cylinder with compressed air using a leakdown tester or fill the cylinder with rope or something fed through the spark plug hole. We prefer the first option.
Great Info...thank you 👍
You didn't show us how to install the valve seal.
It just slides over the end of the valve stem and settles on to the guide.
Does your dual valve spring kit come with valve stem seals?
It does not, but we do offer valve stem seals if you want to replace them at the same time.
Does the tool fit nc miata?
This particular valve spring compressor is specifically meant for use on the NA/NB BP engines. It will not work with an NC, sorry.
I want one!
Collets not keepers..... please
Bat Shit Professor is on point , Thank you