I've bought two of them. One for camp use (and abuse) One for display. I'm in love with Bowies knives since I was a child. I choose a good old fashion Bowie over any other knife for survival, fighting, batoning, camping, etc.
As an owner of one of the first run 1055 carbon steel versions of this Vs the 1085/1090: The lion's share of users will note zero performative difference between the two. If this were say their Grosse Messer/ Kreigmesser you would notice a difference with the 1055 being a tiny bit more flexible even though they are hardened to the same spring steel temper. Even though this Bowie is indeed large due to the design of it and that massive fuller acting like an I-beam the only way you can flex the Bowie enough to notice would be to blatantly abuse the knife. I.E.: You would have to practically bury the blade tip first over an inch and a half deep into a SOLID log and bend it past 60 degrees of flex. The 1055 blade will spring back to true zero degrees of deviation a little bit quicker. ( Not by much!) But both blade steels are put through the British proofing tests meaning both will take such a bend and return to true, the only difference you'll find past that is *in THEORY* the 1085/1090 should hold an edge just a little longer. I say in *theory* because with their differential spring steel temper being similar and the blade being at over 59 Rockwell, the difference between how long the edge lasts between sharpening is practically imperceptible to most users. One would have to work exceptionally long and hard to dull either past the need for simple stropping/polishing the edge. Both will serve their intended purpose very well and will no doubt become heirlooms to many a future generation even if used hard.
reignick1133 ,... I agree completely. 1055 and 1085/1090 are pretty much identical. I’m not trying to say: My Knife Steel is better than Your Knife Steel. Lol. I just noticed that some stamped 1055 had fit and finish problems and people who had the ones stamped 1085 or 1090 had less issues with fit and finish,... even on their leather sheath! I was just thinking maybe the knives stamped 1055 were produced in a different factory than the ones stamped 1085 or 1090. I read a lot of Amazon reviews of this knife and reviews on other sites and forums and it seemed to me that the people who were having quality control issues the most were the people who got 1055 versions of this knife. Just a theory. But like I said: even their sheaths were messed up. Like bad factory seconds.
@@JoeDoomsday there is indeed a difference but how these knives were spec'd out? Well the heat treatment of both is done to such a close tolerance as to be for all intents and purposes near identical. To the point where at the moment while looking around for stag antler to cut into a custom handle to customize for the knife I debating on which to apply it to. "Do I go for a 100% new look or place said custom antler handle onto my original ?"
@@JoeDoomsday 1085 and 1090 have alot more carbon and will hold the edge for a longer time no matter what. But nothing wrong with 1055, but it is mostly used in machetes and that sort of blades. Real knife steel starts with 1060 high carbon.
UPDATE!!! WOW! These knives are prone to Rust if you live in a humid area. I clean & oil the blade regularly and I keep it stored in its cardboard box in a dry area but,... it still started rusting. I had to sand off the rust but the sanding wrecked the blue finish. Oh well. I have many, cheaper Carbon Steel Knives and I don’t have these issues. My last two Cold Steel Knives have both rusted on me. :(
For the rust to get to the point of sanding off clearly means it was not cared for regularly. Most don't realize high carbon knives need high end maintenance, this is just blued on top of it, instead of coated. Cheaper carbon might require less care but will probably break more readily than preferred...its a trade off. Look to 440 C if you want the no maint. route....Ths for the vid ..and most important exposing the tang. Am I wrong? it looked like the tang might have been welded to the blade and not one piece.
Sword and Shield ,... it looked like that at first glance but I’m pretty sure the hand guard is welded to the tang so it doesn’t wobble loose. It’s one solid piece of steel.
Sword and Shield ,... I cleaned & oiled the knife once every month and stored it in its cardboard box with a silica packet- the only two knives that are causing me issues are the two Cold Steel knives: the “Wild West Bowie” & the “ 1917 Frontier Bowie”. There is another CZcamsr having issues with rust on his Frontier Bowie also. I live in a pretty Humid area.
@@JoeDoomsday Same here on the humid area..FL.. Uncoated high carbon has to be watched early on to determine cleaning cycle frequency, it will vary, iME.
@@JoeDoomsday Yeah the visible spot welds in the vid were for the guard. for sure. A tang to blade weld might have been more subtle, in front of those, especially after grinding...thx tho, did some other searching and so far the consensus seems to be one piece.
Windless Steel Craft of India, makes these for Cold Steel, and they do not put a good edge on them. But that is fixed, easy enough. I took mine too a knife sharpener and he did a excellent job. Now it has a set bevel to the edge and easy to touch up. Most Cold steel items in this price range will need some work. Sounds like you , like every thing perfect right out of the box. Too bad, its a nice knife, I love mine.
Who doesn’t like everything perfect right out of the box? Nobody wants a less than perfect knife. Right? My only real issue with this knife is the Fact that it Rusts ridiculously easy and fast. It requires constant cleaning and oiling. far more so than any of my other Carbon steel knives. Other than that, it’s O.K. I like the look of it for sure.
@@JoeDoomsday Got my 1917 Bowie last summer. Not a spec of rust on it yet. But then again I hosed down the inside of the scabbard/sheath with WD-40. Plus I live in a very dry climate, so maybe that helps. As for the edge, took mine to a guy who has been sharpening knives for years, and has even sharpened one of my swords and he did a excellent job. Now the bevel is set and its easy to touch up. For me, if I have to do a bit of touch up/finish work, I don't mind at all. Gives me something to do.
@@longrider42 ,... ya WD-40 & Living in a dry climate definitely helps. It’s a humid hellhole where I’m at now. Lol. I used to live in Montana,... never had any Rust issues. Now I’m in PA., and it’s Humid and wet all the time where I’m at.
Even though it’s been blued or whatever it is that’s on the blade mine started rusting after a few months even though it was oiled. Now I removed the coating & forced a patina on it with yellow mustard & vinegar and I keep it coated with Vaseline or otter wax. Other than that it’s an awesome knife.
@@JoeDoomsday Mine came in today about 10:30 this morning I'm kind of disappointed its not ground as thin as I'd like makes the edge kind of chunky and blunt I'm not talking about the spine I'm talking about the saber grind to make the cutting edge the steel feels a little softer than I'd like also but we'll see if I like it in time I guess
@@motorcyclemark2889 ,… awesome! Mine was pretty thick in the blade edge also. I love how it looked though. It was the rust that made mine less than desirable. If you ever get the chance to purchase a Svord Von Tempsky Bowie,… I think you’d be glad you did. 👍🏻
I was recently comparing the bluing on mine with the old Colt Royal Blue on my old(er) Python- the bluing depth is darn close to that Colt Royal Blue.. Hadnt noticed that before, but then the Python lives in the safe....
Cool Video 👍 When U remove the handle is it also possible to remove the handguard? I have one and would like to remove the handguard for more precise bushcrafting (I know its not made for that and maybe its a bad idea and I will put it back togheter) Greetings from Vienna ✌️
the only thing that stopped me getting this one over say the 1849 rifleman's knife (which I bought) is the lack of a lanyard hole/attachment, and IMHO all large knives should have an lanyard for safety. It's cool but just doesn't have all the features I require.
What's a factory second? And how can I know if I got a good version of this knife or not? What things should I look out for and where should I buy the knife from? I'm in New Zealand by the way. Thanks!
Duke Nukem ,... A factory second is a knife that comes out of the mass produced Factory with some flaws. Either a low quality heat treatment or a visible flaw like a scuff, a scratch , or a bend. Sometimes it could be too thick or too thin. EBay & Amazon often carry factory seconds especially if it has a very low price compared with other companies prices. If I was You , I’d save your money and pass on this knife. Mine was pristine when I bought it and I paid a lot of $ for it. Now I can’t get it to quit rusting. I sanded off all the rust, put petroleum jelly on it , I’ve tried mink oil, knife oil , motor oil. Nothing works. It just keeps rusting. I’ve sanded off most of the Blue coating that was on it trying to remove the rust. Now it’s ugly and rusty.
I just ordered one today and mentioned the problem that you had and that I really don't want to deal with that.There was one pic review on Amazon and the metal tip on the sheath broke of and looked like the knife came from an archeological find from 1917. I ordered it from Atlanta Cutlery for $119. I hope that they're good? (;
I heard that they are made in Pakistan for ColdSteel. By the company “Windlass Steelcrafts”. They are awesome knives. Mine remained rust free for about a year or so then all of a sudden rust started appearing all over the blade. The bluing didn’t stop it at all. I kept it clean, dry & oiled to. I sanded off the rust and bluing then put a forced patina on the blade using mustard & vinegar and it’s been fine ever since. I was thinking about putting super blue right over the vinegar patina just to darken it. It might look pretty cool.
@@JoeDoomsday They are made in India,and Windlass Steelcrafts is a Indian company. They made the Kukris for the British regiments and have several government contracts and so on. They also make the Cold Steel sabers and swords. And this fine Bowie knife that i strangely dont own, yet, But i really should, because i love both Bowie knives and Cold Steel.
I have several "factory seconds" blades in my collection. I really like them. At the time when I shot this video, there was some real garbage factory seconds going around. the sheaths were falling apart. the knives had dull blades. some needed reprofiled. some had loose hand guards because the weren't welded properly. sometimes a knife will be marked as a factory 2nd because something went wrong with the heat treatment. In that case the knife is crap. - Even the good one I finally received, has some issues. After this video was posted, a short time later, the knife rusted terribly. I sanded off all the bluing and forced a patina with yellow mustard and vinegar. its good now but,... the beautiful look it had originally, is now gone. Anyhow,... I was just saying: Buy from a reputable dealer.
Actually, it is not blued, that is Cold Steels black paint job. I know it well from all the Cold Steel tomahawks I've bought. Each one had the black paint on it. May people on CZcams have shown how too remove the paint from said knife. If it where blued, it would be much easier to clean off.
James Hart ,... Interesting. When I purchased this knife the sales pitch was how it is Blued. That’s one main reason I bought it. When I removed the color it didn’t chip like paint. (Nothing like auto paint) so I assumed it was bluing just as Cold Steel had said it was.
@@JoeDoomsday I've blued many a pistol, rifle and shotgun over the years. It takes a lot of work to get a blue that deep that shines. If you look around on CZcams you will find other who have removed the paint, with paint stripper. If it was blued, you'd use something called Blue and Rust remover. Now when I get mine, I will buff the paint to a matte finish.
@@JoeDoomsday For me its not a deal breaker. Get some fine steel wool and buff it down to a Matte finish and it will look "Blued" The guard will require a bit more work. Just go slow.
James Hart ,... well mine rusted. One day it looked brand new and a few weeks later it was rusting away. I had to completely sand it which removed the fake bluing and then I forced a patina on it to protect the steel. Seems okay now. I’d never buy another one.
It is indeed made by Windlass to Cold Steel's exact specifications. I do not know if the certificate is still included, but on the first run of 1055 knives they came packaged with full credentials of having passed British proof testing. ( bent to 70 degrees and returned to zero/ true with no damage) I know the later blades 100% will pass the same proofing trials, as once said trial is sanctioned for a knife it *must* retain that ability because it will continue to be put through those trials. I.E. once the specification is set British proof trials are *enforced.*
never order from amazon. amazon usually has defected ones in the batch its a hit or miss. Kult of athena has good service and always makes sure you dont get a lemon. prices of cold steel are cheaper rather then buying direct from CS website.
That's what I wanted to see. The scales removed. Thanks buddy. I'm gonna buy one and replace them with micarta. Micarta is tougher and won't crack. Wear gloves when doing hard work with knife or you'll get blisters. It can be used as a combat knife but its slower due to weight. Back then men were stronger and faster because of the hard work they done every single damned day. On the other hand you don't bring a knife to a gun fight. They shot your ass. Lol Better to have it and not need it than not have it and need it really bad. Lmao
Travis Padilla ,... yep. I clean mine regularly, then I dry it thoroughly, and slather it with a thin coat of Vaseline. Keeps it in good condition. Keeps the Rust away!
The weld is just to tack the guard on so it doesn’t rattle. Doesn’t bother me too much but this knife has serious Rust issues. It requires constant care. Just Not worth it.
Yes made in India by a company, and I hope I spell it right. Windlass/Windless, Steel Craft. They make lots of knives and swords. But never put a decent edge on them. Maybe that's so the blade does not cut out of the packaging.
This is as good a production Bowie knife as you can buy. Saying that I have little to no regard for large production knives for the most part they are garbage . Few of them are even ground or tempered properly , most are to heavy , and the list goes on. However as a representative of very poor craftsmanship this is about as good as it gets.
Have you ever held/ used a Bagwell "Hell's Belle", a Western Cutlery W49 Bowie, or a Case XX Bowie? It's among that caliber of blade.. not as nice as say a custom $1200 USD+, hand made 1 of 1 Bowie knife, but rather exceptional and far better than one would ever expect. My 1917 Cold Steel Bowie is certainly not as nice as my custom Bagwell Bowie, but it's showing no signs after years of use of being anything less than a well made tool with good balance and respectable edge retention/ durability. It's not perfection but for the price paid? It's exceptional.
@@reignick1133 I did not trash the knife , and I did say if you want to buy a large production knife 11 - 14 inch blade your not going to do better. I like the case xx it's a great all around MF medium size knife . I to own a Hell's Bell's and a better knife can not be made!!!
@@xanatos3633 Never accused you of trashing the knife, and I will agree with you on the Hell's Belle. That knife REALLY needs to go back into production as it's the closest most people will get to a fine custom Bagwell blade.
@@xanatos3633 my USA made okc marine raider bowie cost $48. 1075 steel, nice sheath, sharp as hell tough as shit. I'll take that over this cold steel for less than half the price
I've bought two of them. One for camp use (and abuse) One for display. I'm in love with Bowies knives since I was a child. I choose a good old fashion Bowie over any other knife for survival, fighting, batoning, camping, etc.
how sharp do they come?
Cold Steel advertises these as 12.25" blades.. Thanks for letting us see the tang- more reviewers should do that when possible...
Ronald Dunne ,... ya,...they do list it as 12.25” , The actual cutting edge is only, around 11 inches. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Just ordered one today, can hardly wait for it to arrive!
Its nice to find a knife that actually built for the riggers of war and combat, and with a sheath to match.
It’s really prone to Rust so,… keep it clean & oiled. I’ve tried so many different knife oils over the years. Vaseline outperforms them all.
Showed details, talked about different steel versions, took the handles off - perfect review! By the way I have spotted your review on Lamnia website😀
I love this CS Bowie
Well,it arrived... And it's a good one!!! 💙
Congratulations! Glad to hear that. 🤙🏻👍🏻
Maybe you could review it or do an unboxing of it on CZcams 👍🏻
Being a lefty the one thing that irritates me with a lot of these companies is no option for left handed sheaths.
As an owner of one of the first run 1055 carbon steel versions of this Vs the 1085/1090: The lion's share of users will note zero performative difference between the two.
If this were say their Grosse Messer/ Kreigmesser you would notice a difference with the 1055 being a tiny bit more flexible even though they are hardened to the same spring steel temper. Even though this Bowie is indeed large due to the design of it and that massive fuller acting like an I-beam the only way you can flex the Bowie enough to notice would be to blatantly abuse the knife.
I.E.: You would have to practically bury the blade tip first over an inch and a half deep into a SOLID log and bend it past 60 degrees of flex. The 1055 blade will spring back to true zero degrees of deviation a little bit quicker. ( Not by much!)
But both blade steels are put through the British proofing tests meaning both will take such a bend and return to true, the only difference you'll find past that is *in THEORY* the 1085/1090 should hold an edge just a little longer.
I say in *theory* because with their differential spring steel temper being similar and the blade being at over 59 Rockwell, the difference between how long the edge lasts between sharpening is practically imperceptible to most users.
One would have to work exceptionally long and hard to dull either past the need for simple stropping/polishing the edge. Both will serve their intended purpose very well and will no doubt become heirlooms to many a future generation even if used hard.
reignick1133 ,... I agree completely. 1055 and 1085/1090 are pretty much identical. I’m not trying to say: My Knife Steel is better than Your Knife Steel. Lol. I just noticed that some stamped 1055 had fit and finish problems and people who had the ones stamped 1085 or 1090 had less issues with fit and finish,... even on their leather sheath! I was just thinking maybe the knives stamped 1055 were produced in a different factory than the ones stamped 1085 or 1090. I read a lot of Amazon reviews of this knife and reviews on other sites and forums and it seemed to me that the people who were having quality control issues the most were the people who got 1055 versions of this knife. Just a theory. But like I said: even their sheaths were messed up. Like bad factory seconds.
@@JoeDoomsday there is indeed a difference but how these knives were spec'd out? Well the heat treatment of both is done to such a close tolerance as to be for all intents and purposes near identical. To the point where at the moment while looking around for stag antler to cut into a custom handle to customize for the knife I debating on which to apply it to. "Do I go for a 100% new look or place said custom antler handle onto my original ?"
Where can I find the type of steel that my Frontier is made of?
Thanks for the info
@@JoeDoomsday 1085 and 1090 have alot more carbon and will hold the edge for a longer time no matter what. But nothing wrong with 1055, but it is mostly used in machetes and that sort of blades. Real knife steel starts with 1060 high carbon.
I'm Hoping for a good one to arrive! Great video...
UPDATE!!! WOW! These knives are prone to Rust if you live in a humid area. I clean & oil the blade regularly and I keep it stored in its cardboard box in a dry area but,... it still started rusting. I had to sand off the rust but the sanding wrecked the blue finish. Oh well. I have many, cheaper Carbon Steel Knives and I don’t have these issues. My last two Cold Steel Knives have both rusted on me. :(
For the rust to get to the point of sanding off clearly means it was not cared for regularly. Most don't realize high carbon knives need high end maintenance, this is just blued on top of it, instead of coated. Cheaper carbon might require less care but will probably break more readily than preferred...its a trade off. Look to 440 C if you want the no maint. route....Ths for the vid ..and most important exposing the tang. Am I wrong? it looked like the tang might have been welded to the blade and not one piece.
Sword and Shield ,... it looked like that at first glance but I’m pretty sure the hand guard is welded to the tang so it doesn’t wobble loose. It’s one solid piece of steel.
Sword and Shield ,... I cleaned & oiled the knife once every month and stored it in its cardboard box with a silica packet- the only two knives that are causing me issues are the two Cold Steel knives: the “Wild West Bowie” & the “ 1917 Frontier Bowie”. There is another CZcamsr having issues with rust on his Frontier Bowie also. I live in a pretty Humid area.
@@JoeDoomsday Same here on the humid area..FL.. Uncoated high carbon has to be watched early on to determine cleaning cycle frequency, it will vary, iME.
@@JoeDoomsday Yeah the visible spot welds in the vid were for the guard. for sure. A tang to blade weld might have been more subtle, in front of those, especially after grinding...thx tho, did some other searching and so far the consensus seems to be one piece.
this is a very nice bowie indeed!
spartenskillers ,... yep. There are some “factory seconds” out there on Amazon & EBay but if You get a good one like I did, it’s a real Peach! 🍑
Windless Steel Craft of India, makes these for Cold Steel, and they do not put a good edge on them. But that is fixed, easy enough. I took mine too a knife sharpener and he did a excellent job. Now it has a set bevel to the edge and easy to touch up. Most Cold steel items in this price range will need some work. Sounds like you , like every thing perfect right out of the box. Too bad, its a nice knife, I love mine.
Who doesn’t like everything perfect right out of the box? Nobody wants a less than perfect knife. Right? My only real issue with this knife is the Fact that it Rusts ridiculously easy and fast. It requires constant cleaning and oiling. far more so than any of my other Carbon steel knives. Other than that, it’s O.K. I like the look of it for sure.
@@JoeDoomsday Got my 1917 Bowie last summer. Not a spec of rust on it yet. But then again I hosed down the inside of the scabbard/sheath with WD-40. Plus I live in a very dry climate, so maybe that helps. As for the edge, took mine to a guy who has been sharpening knives for years, and has even sharpened one of my swords and he did a excellent job. Now the bevel is set and its easy to touch up. For me, if I have to do a bit of touch up/finish work, I don't mind at all. Gives me something to do.
@@longrider42 ,... ya WD-40 & Living in a dry climate definitely helps. It’s a humid hellhole where I’m at now. Lol. I used to live in Montana,... never had any Rust issues. Now I’m in PA., and it’s Humid and wet all the time where I’m at.
Mine should be here tomorrow can't wait .
Even though it’s been blued or whatever it is that’s on the blade mine started rusting after a few months even though it was oiled. Now I removed the coating & forced a patina on it with yellow mustard & vinegar and I keep it coated with Vaseline or otter wax. Other than that it’s an awesome knife.
@@JoeDoomsday Mine came in today about 10:30 this morning I'm kind of disappointed its not ground as thin as I'd like makes the edge kind of chunky and blunt I'm not talking about the spine I'm talking about the saber grind to make the cutting edge the steel feels a little softer than I'd like also but we'll see if I like it in time I guess
@@motorcyclemark2889 ,… awesome! Mine was pretty thick in the blade edge also. I love how it looked though. It was the rust that made mine less than desirable. If you ever get the chance to purchase a Svord Von Tempsky Bowie,… I think you’d be glad you did. 👍🏻
@@JoeDoomsday I've been looking at the svord bowie for few years I seen reviews of it just haven't pulled the trigger yet on one looks heavy
@@motorcyclemark2889 ,... its really Not that heavy. I doubt you would regret getting one.
I'm buying one from Amazon, it should be perfect, with the same plastic and same grease around it
Great review 🔪🗡👍👌.
I was recently comparing the bluing on mine with the old Colt Royal Blue on my old(er) Python- the bluing depth is darn close to that Colt Royal Blue.. Hadnt noticed that before, but then the Python lives in the safe....
I wonder if it would be a good idea to epoxy or jb weld the handle scale in place. That is the only weak point I could see.
Cool Video 👍
When U remove the handle is it also possible to remove the handguard?
I have one and would like to remove the handguard for more precise bushcrafting (I know its not made for that and maybe its a bad idea and I will put it back togheter)
Greetings from Vienna ✌️
The Hand guard is welded on. It won’t come off. It might damage the tang if you try to remove it.
the only thing that stopped me getting this one over say the 1849 rifleman's knife (which I bought) is the lack of a lanyard hole/attachment, and IMHO all large knives should have an lanyard for safety. It's cool but just doesn't have all the features I require.
What's a factory second? And how can I know if I got a good version of this knife or not? What things should I look out for and where should I buy the knife from? I'm in New Zealand by the way. Thanks!
Duke Nukem ,... A factory second is a knife that comes out of the mass produced Factory with some flaws. Either a low quality heat treatment or a visible flaw like a scuff, a scratch , or a bend. Sometimes it could be too thick or too thin. EBay & Amazon often carry factory seconds especially if it has a very low price compared with other companies prices. If I was You , I’d save your money and pass on this knife. Mine was pristine when I bought it and I paid a lot of $ for it. Now I can’t get it to quit rusting. I sanded off all the rust, put petroleum jelly on it , I’ve tried mink oil, knife oil , motor oil. Nothing works. It just keeps rusting. I’ve sanded off most of the Blue coating that was on it trying to remove the rust. Now it’s ugly and rusty.
Joe Doomsday Yeah, I think I will pass on it. I don't really trust cold steel a lot to be honest. I think I'll get a SOG Seal Team Elite! Thank you!
I just ordered one today and mentioned the problem that you had and that I really don't want to deal with that.There was one pic review on Amazon and the metal tip on the sheath broke of and looked like the knife came from an archeological find from 1917.
I ordered it from Atlanta Cutlery for $119.
I hope that they're good? (;
I heard that they are made in Pakistan for ColdSteel. By the company “Windlass Steelcrafts”. They are awesome knives. Mine remained rust free for about a year or so then all of a sudden rust started appearing all over the blade. The bluing didn’t stop it at all. I kept it clean, dry & oiled to. I sanded off the rust and bluing then put a forced patina on the blade using mustard & vinegar and it’s been fine ever since. I was thinking about putting super blue right over the vinegar patina just to darken it. It might look pretty cool.
@@JoeDoomsday They are made in India,and Windlass Steelcrafts is a Indian company. They made the Kukris for the British regiments and have several government contracts and so on. They also make the Cold Steel sabers and swords. And this fine Bowie knife that i strangely dont own, yet, But i really should, because i love both Bowie knives and Cold Steel.
I can't believe you're saying Factory seconds aren't good it's the same shape everywhere, good Steel
I have several "factory seconds" blades in my collection. I really like them. At the time when I shot this video, there was some real garbage factory seconds going around. the sheaths were falling apart. the knives had dull blades. some needed reprofiled. some had loose hand guards because the weren't welded properly. sometimes a knife will be marked as a factory 2nd because something went wrong with the heat treatment. In that case the knife is crap. - Even the good one I finally received, has some issues. After this video was posted, a short time later, the knife rusted terribly. I sanded off all the bluing and forced a patina with yellow mustard and vinegar. its good now but,... the beautiful look it had originally, is now gone. Anyhow,... I was just saying: Buy from a reputable dealer.
@@JoeDoomsday good man
@@JoeDoomsday I was fixing to say who's making knives, and... they're not doing it correctly
World's Strongest on that tag is hilarious.
Actually, it is not blued, that is Cold Steels black paint job. I know it well from all the Cold Steel tomahawks I've bought. Each one had the black paint on it. May people on CZcams have shown how too remove the paint from said knife. If it where blued, it would be much easier to clean off.
James Hart ,... Interesting. When I purchased this knife the sales pitch was how it is Blued. That’s one main reason I bought it. When I removed the color it didn’t chip like paint. (Nothing like auto paint) so I assumed it was bluing just as Cold Steel had said it was.
@@JoeDoomsday I've blued many a pistol, rifle and shotgun over the years. It takes a lot of work to get a blue that deep that shines. If you look around on CZcams you will find other who have removed the paint, with paint stripper. If it was blued, you'd use something called Blue and Rust remover. Now when I get mine, I will buff the paint to a matte finish.
James Hart , good to know. Wish I had heard that before I purchased this knife.
@@JoeDoomsday For me its not a deal breaker. Get some fine steel wool and buff it down to a Matte finish and it will look "Blued" The guard will require a bit more work. Just go slow.
James Hart ,... well mine rusted. One day it looked brand new and a few weeks later it was rusting away. I had to completely sand it which removed the fake bluing and then I forced a patina on it to protect the steel. Seems okay now. I’d never buy another one.
Steel is 1085
The early ones were 1055.
Bet its made by Windlass Steel.
Jack Aubrey ,... I would imagine it most likely is made by Windlass
It is indeed made by Windlass to Cold Steel's exact specifications. I do not know if the certificate is still included, but on the first run of 1055 knives they came packaged with full credentials of having passed British proof testing. ( bent to 70 degrees and returned to zero/ true with no damage)
I know the later blades 100% will pass the same proofing trials, as once said trial is sanctioned for a knife it *must* retain that ability because it will continue to be put through those trials. I.E. once the specification is set British proof trials are *enforced.*
never order from amazon. amazon usually has defected ones in the batch its a hit or miss. Kult of athena has good service and always makes sure you dont get a lemon. prices of cold steel are cheaper rather then buying direct from CS website.
Knife Center, is also a good place to buy from.
Too bad that almost 80% of Cold Steel's inventory is "out of stock". I wonder of They're even staying in business...
That's what I wanted to see. The scales removed. Thanks buddy. I'm gonna buy one and replace them with micarta. Micarta is tougher and won't crack. Wear gloves when doing hard work with knife or you'll get blisters. It can be used as a combat knife but its slower due to weight. Back then men were stronger and faster because of the hard work they done every single damned day. On the other hand you don't bring a knife to a gun fight. They shot your ass. Lol Better to have it and not need it than not have it and need it really bad. Lmao
lckgilmo43 don’t speak for all of us buddy, you’re clearly not a concreter lol
Wait I wiped down the oil was I supposed to do that
Travis Padilla ,... yep. I clean mine regularly, then I dry it thoroughly, and slather it with a thin coat of Vaseline. Keeps it in good condition. Keeps the Rust away!
@@JoeDoomsday thank you I will do that 👍🏼
@@JoeDoomsday do I put Vaseline all over the knife and the sheath
Travis Padilla , that’s what I do. I keep a thinner coating on the sheath and a nice thick coat on knife.
@@JoeDoomsday ok cool i will give it a try
useable for hunting? slaughtering or is it too big for that
it's big. I don't know that it's too big for that, but it is almost a short sword.
09:55 that is the problem!
The weld is just to tack the guard on so it doesn’t rattle. Doesn’t bother me too much but this knife has serious Rust issues. It requires constant care. Just Not worth it.
"Made in India" suddenly I lost all interest
yeah. what a shame. I was hoping it was made in USA. :(
Karam J nothing wrong with made in india
@@mackglow That regions specialize in blades.
Yes made in India by a company, and I hope I spell it right. Windlass/Windless, Steel Craft. They make lots of knives and swords. But never put a decent edge on them. Maybe that's so the blade does not cut out of the packaging.
@@mackglow the company is called Windlass Steel Craft.
This is as good a production Bowie knife as you can buy. Saying that I have little to no regard
for large production knives for the most part they are garbage . Few of them are even ground or tempered properly , most are to heavy , and the list goes on. However as a representative of very poor craftsmanship this is about as good as it gets.
Have you ever held/ used a Bagwell "Hell's Belle", a Western Cutlery W49 Bowie, or a Case XX Bowie? It's among that caliber of blade.. not as nice as say a custom $1200 USD+, hand made 1 of 1 Bowie knife, but rather exceptional and far better than one would ever expect.
My 1917 Cold Steel Bowie is certainly not as nice as my custom Bagwell Bowie, but it's showing no signs after years of use of being anything less than a well made tool with good balance and respectable edge retention/ durability. It's not perfection but for the price paid? It's exceptional.
@@reignick1133 I did not trash the knife , and I did say if you want to buy a large production knife 11 - 14 inch blade your not going to do better.
I like the case xx it's a great all around MF medium size knife . I to own a Hell's Bell's and a better knife can not be made!!!
@@xanatos3633 Never accused you of trashing the knife, and I will agree with you on the Hell's Belle. That knife REALLY needs to go back into production as it's the closest most people will get to a fine custom Bagwell blade.
@@reignick1133No worry . Believe it are not some very good to fine work is being done in both India and Pakistan at under $500.
@@xanatos3633 my USA made okc marine raider bowie cost $48. 1075 steel, nice sheath, sharp as hell tough as shit. I'll take that over this cold steel for less than half the price
Cheap junk
Hey Joe...ITS NOT A NATCHEZ BOWIE!! ITS A 1917 FRONTIER BOWIE!
What’s your point?