Fat Bike Crankset Upgrade (Square Taper to Integrated) & Trail Test
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2019
- Changing our Fat Bike Crank www.firstcomponents.com/crank... from square taper to integrated.
Watch the video for the complete process of installing an integrated crankset on a fatbike as replacement for a square taper bottom bracket and crankset.
Using a chain hook to help cut the chain is the first step in getting the square taper crank removed and a new integrated crank installed. Much easier to manage the cutting if both sides of the chain are restrained from springing apart when the chain tool removes the chain rivet. This is a carbon bike with an awesome finish so carefully lifting the chain clear of the frame is important to avoid scratches to either the paint or the clearcoat.
Remove the crank bolts with a standard 8mm allen wrench and the pedals with a 6mm allen wrench. Then a crank puller is required to pull the cranks off the square taper spindles. A little sewing machine oil or similar light oil makes installing the crank puller into the crank and removing it from the crank later much easier. You'll also reduce the chance you might damage the crank threads. Using a crank puller with an integrated handle such as this one means only one or two turns will have the crank removed from the spindle.
Give the bb shell a wipe over to remove any old grease or dirt. Then grease the bb shell along with the left and right side bearings cups of the integrated crank external (outboard) bearings to be installed. Installing the bottom bracket cups requires care that a cup is not cross-threaded into the bb shell. This is easy to do. Make sure any resistance in turning the bearing cups into the bb shell is not due to a cross-threaded situation. With the bearing cups installed each cup should be tightened to a torque level of between 35 and 50 nM. 40 - 45 is adequate.
Installing the crank is easier by smearing a little grease on the crank where it contacts each bearing's inner race. Slip the non-drive side crank (arm) into position. Then fasten the crank bolt. The crank bolt's function is only to move the crank arm snugly against the bottom bracket race. Using a 10mm allen key makes this easy. No need to tighten though. Finger tight (which is a maximum of 15 nM) is all that is required to secure the crank arm into position. The pinch bolts require tightening to between 12 and 14 nM. The correct technique is to tighten each pinch bolt a little in succession. Flipping the crank between each bolt, dropping the torque wrench driver into the bolt then turning slightly is the way to proceed. Once the wrench clicks when the torque level is reached, you need to continue for 2-3 turns making sure the torque level reached is true.
A quick way of reinstalling the chain is by feeding the chain into the derailleur cage under the upper jockey wheel and over the lower jockey wheel then pulling it through almost to the end. You take that other end and pull it back through keeping the chain clear of the frame at the same time. Then wrap it around the cassette and run it up across the top of the chainring, then down and around to meet the other end which is protruding from the deraillear cage and lower derailleur pulley.
Rejoining the chain with a quick release link is more easily done without the help of a chain hook. Place each link plate on opposite sides to each other. Pull the ends of the chain towards each other. Pressure from your left index finger for the left side and right thumb on the right side keeps the link plates in position as the chain tension increases. Locate the pin of each plate inside the opposite one. Use master link pliers to lock the link securely. Modern quick release links have a safety locking boss that makes locking the link very difficult without a tool. Once the link "clicks" into position you can be certain it is locked and cannot come apart without equal force. Reinstalling the pedals completes the whole process. The cranks have been replaced and the bike is ready for the trail.
The trail test is important. The climbs put the bottom bracket and the cranks under stress. If there anything amiss with the install then tell-tale clicks or creaks will indicate more adjustment is necessary. - Jak na to + styl
Such a complete and clear explanation video! Very helpful. Thanks a lot!
How do I find out what size do I need?
Cause when I measured my bb
It was around 114mm
I have a First Components F30 BB 30 - Shimano 24mm however I can't find instructions on how to fit it.
Looks like Bali to me. No spacers required then?
What is the size and manufacturer of the bottom bracket you installed?
Great instructions but what did it accomplish? Was the goal more power on inclines?
Great video and use of proper tools. Not clear why you had to remove the chain though. Not really necessary if you just simply protect the frame with a towel. Unless of course the chainring size changed.
Nicely done! The right tools makes all the difference when working on anything!! That is a great looking Fatty :-)
So true. And, yes, this bike is a pleasure to work on and ride
did you see how he put the toothbrush in the hole
Hey👋 where can I get this kind of crankset same like yours 120mm, I really need one
What brand of socket did you use on the bottom bracket? What is the q factor of the cran,s?
Is that Bali?
Why the cloves now the chain is al hairy
Hi, where can I buy a front deraileur for a fat bike? Im currentl using a Phantom FatBike frame. Thanks.
What’s the length of the spindle? I wanna do the same thing to my fat bike.
Great Backyard, Where is that?
That’s in the back blocks of Taiwan’s Miaoli County...rarely visited, but not too hard to access, perfect for fat bike fun😄
Your larger torque wrench clicks both ways, correct? 3/8 wrenches like that seem harder to find.
I'm not aware of any that do measure torque both ways, Jason. Bike Hand has recently released a 1/2" drive "two way" torque model, available on Amazon. Haven't tried it yet though. I'm using an earlier (one-way) version of that. The technique is to tighten the drive side up to what feels right. Flip the rachet and with the torque set at around 40nM (range is 35-50nM), ensure it "gives" slightly or clicks when you go to loosen it. That confirms torque is within tolerance. ~Glenn
Update: Park tools latest wrenches seem to claim measurement in both directions. Price of two wrench tho!
The clickers are nice, but any beam wrench will measure in both directions.
can be done, but why? weight? visit the restroom before a ride. waste of money. nothing wrong with cartridge bb.
Crank choice...