Well done, there's nothing quite like the moment you finally get an plane truly sharp and set up correctly, for me that was the transition point from hobby to addiction.
Love the tip about holding the blade on an angle, I seen it on Wortheford and tried it, changed everything from the way it feels and the end result too. Keep bring then great ideas 💡, there have helped change how I do my wood working now 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The quality of the image is so good now in your shop that the detail makes me feel better about the condition of my tools and the type of process I'm following. Great note on setting the blade onto the frog and then pulling up a bit...very useful. Hey wait: IS THAT A FRENCH CLEAT?!!!! Dude, can't wait to see that video.
Well Done James, We all just need to keep the process simple and remember to sharpen sooner rather than later. It really does not matter the type of steel or the age, you are only going to get 80-120 sq ft of surface planing before you are dull. The plane truly does feel heavenly once it is sharp, properly set and a little oil or wax on the sole. Swwwwwwoooosh !
It seems I am in a continual process of using tools and discovering better ways and tools and recycling the old ones...but I am a little attached to my wet stones...but I do see the beauty and convenience of this way of organizing oneself...and beginning to covet my neighbor's diamond plates...
Great video I think a video on moulding planes would be a great topic. I'd like to get started with a set but I'm nervous about sharpening them and how to look for good ones to buy. Thanks for the help
Nicely done. Have you ever tried switching hands to change the scratch angle when moving from one abrasive to the other? It can give you a next level sharp once you've practiced a bit.
I bought the $20 no4 plane. I had tried to plane with it but it was very hard so I flattened the bottom and sharpened the iron. ohh my gosh was the flattening ruff but it was so worth it. I found that window cleaner works better on low grits and oil works better on higher grits. love your videos btw, very educational.
This is basically the same process as sharpening a giant chisel isn't it? Also way to tease with the French cleat wall in back; looking forward to the video!
James, thanks. Great video. I have noticed the the surface of the chip breaker that touches the iron needs to be really flat. I kept getting shavings stuck in the space between the blade and chip breaker. That surface was really bumpy and irregular. Probably the original casting. When I flattened that surface on my diamond plates, it contacted the blade perfectly flat. No more shavings stuck in between the two pieces. Like the back of the blade, I probably only have to flatten it once.
I am a recent subscriber I know this video is older, but I have to thank you for this and all of your channel which I have watched 80% of since I stumbled upon it (3 weeks ago). I have had the desire to use hand tools and get into wookworking for about 5 years now and had a #4 plane sitting on my shelf for 4 years, due to sever back problems and everything being wrong with my plane ie not sharp or setup like you teach. It was to hard on me. But after watching your channel my plane is so dialed in that I can push it almost with two fingers if that was correct lol. Thank you for doing what you do subbed for life and I will be buying a card scraper from your store.
Great video as usual James! I also see that you have been working on the wall behind you. Looks like a series of French cleats in order to hang more stuff on that wall. Anyway, looking good.................. Steve
Hi there from Portugal, Nice as always :D Next Video Idea, How to clean diamond stones, your look always so clean, You need to share how :D Obrigado(Thanks)
nice video, its the same technique i use and i think its the easiest to get consistant. allot of people use a circular motion which i think is harder to controll, and also suggest putting a micro bevel on which again i think is a bit hard form most people to freehand accurately. I would suggest however you try and get the burr off and refine the edge a bit before getting on the strop. that burr breaking off leaves a pretty jagged edge that really cant be buffed out with a strop. also your using allot of pressure on the strop, which kind of negates the benifits of using a hard leather in the first place, because its rounding the edge off, which is mostly what using a hard leather is about.
LOL if you look at the old videos the label was on there. they will eventually come off as they get wet over the years. this one was actually a dolor store off brand. but I still call it Windex. lol
... and for the rest of us, there are those wet wheel slow speed sharpening systems that cost more than I make in a week... on a serious note... this one is, as always, an informative and entertaining video! I look forward to your video releases. Do you ever take your chip breaker and "sharpen" the flat so you will have a perfect connection when you tighten every thing back down? If so, want to do a quick 2 minute showing the process?
Great info, I really enjoy your videos. I know there are mixed reviews on what angle should the blade be sharpened but do you only sharpen your blades at a 30 deg.?
I sharpen the Bevel down planes at 30 degrees, the chisels at 25, and the carving tools around 12. but that is me. the steeper you grind it the easier it cuts but the faster it dulls.
surely if you leave the burr til the end you can't tell if a new burr is formed by the each grit? or does it only matter on the coarse stone? Great vid James
I look at the scratches. if you have new finer scratches on the tip then it has created a burr. plus if you grind on each step till you get a burr then you are removing a Lot of material.
Hi James, I've been looking at sharpening stones for a while, especially the ones that you use. The only problem is that they are a big expensive. Is there any other brand or style of sharpening stone that you recommend? Or is it worth saving up a bit longer and getting the more expensive stones? Thanks so much, I love your videos Garrett
in diamonds no there is nothing else I would recommend. you can go cheaper with wet stones, but there you have a lot more time keeping them flat. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening The cheapest in the short term is sandpaper on glass, but over time you will spend WAY MORE then diamonds.
Almost all planes it's face down unless the bed is incredibly low and then it's a face up low angle plane. Usually that's only on low angle jack planes and block plans. Everything else is double down
I have used plane I just bought that has an uneven/curve across the iron. When you mentioned using sandpaper for the real rough stuff, what grit should I use? Gotta get this thing sharpened so I can build my bench. Thanks much
Another great video, Thanks. I seem to be able to get my block plane going well but my Jack? keeps fighting me. Gaps between the chip breaker and the iron. Should it be sealed tight or is some gap Okay?
I usually pull them from old planes I have gotten that are not worth restoring they are a good source of parts. If you want new I love Red Rose Reproductions irons. but I just use old irons in all of my planes.
Help! Purchased a yard sale Stanley #4. In sharpening the plane it seems about every time I get it down to the burr edge when removing the burr the plane fractures leaving a jagged edge. Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong. Thanks
there ate one of two problems there. #1 the Iron has had too much worn off and you are past the high carbon steel. the weaker steel there will break off. #2 the burr is too big and when you try to break it off then it takes more with it. what is your last grit before the strop?
J. Got your message. Will send pix to you tonight. I found out that this Stanley #4 is actually a Miller plane or at least that’s what the blade has on the back of it. Again thanks for your help. I not exactly sure how to email pictures on here but the blade is 5 5|8 in length but the sharpening edge is within about 3/8 of the large hole end of the slot. Maybe you nailed it on the soft material. As I said I have reground the edge and think I have corrected the problem. So think I’ll reinstalled it and give it a try. Now do you have any idea where I might get a replacement blade? It’s a 2” wide and is slotted just like a Stanley I think. Have enjoyed watching all of your videos. Had a large red oak that had to come down and if I ever figure out how to send pictures on here I sent it to you. We use such for the most part here for firewood. Red, white Oak and hickory. If you lived a little closer I bring you a load of it. Thank you so much for your help.
So once I get a burr I should not remove until using the strop. Because I'm doing something wrong I've removed the burr after every grit and obviously takes forever.
Hey I bought a set of dmt stones but they sent me coarse / xfine / xxfine will this set work or I should return for xcouse /fine/xfine like your set what u think
The Windex cleans easy and evaporates quickly without residue. Oil would be messy and it would hold the steel shavings in place rather then wash them out.
Yes. Diamonds and whet stones cut very differently. And they will produce a different shine on the surface. The grits do not equate to one another those are measured the same they work very differently. Who is diamonds there is no reason to go any higher than $1200 so I usually follow it up with a strap to get that shine My heart so desires.
In case anyone is trying to get the same Dimond plates, in the description it says "medium fine", but I couldn't find that. Watching the video, it's just "fine"
I believe that my plane iron is square(I have used my square to check it), but I can not get even shavings from both sides unless I move the lateral adjustor to the left side heavily(thus the mouth opening is much narrower on the right side than the left ) ,where may I be wrong?
It is almost always the case that the lateral adjuster is moved left or right very very rarely is it ever dead in the center. The mouth being open or closed on one side of the other means that the whole frog is turned side to side You should loosen the frog and adjust it so that the plane bed is parallel with the mouth. The lateral adjuster does not adjust the opening of the mouth only the depth of the cut side to side.
one of two things. that normally means the final shaving is too heavy that you can feel the difference. you can also solve that by sharpening/grinding just the corners so the last 1/8" on eather edge of the blade is cambered. does that answer your question?
I was fillowing every step of every video on sharpening, yours, Paul Sellers', I can't get any plane or chisel blade to shave my hair and I feel they don't perform that well. I'm using 3 eze-lap diamond stones and strop with compound, like everyone I saw, I have really steady hand while sharpening (earlier I was using guide), but after I'm done with stones I have really durable burr, I can't get it off easily, takes me hundrets of strokes on strop to take it off (makes no difference if I'm pulling back of the blade on SF stone before strop or no). Any advice?
it sounds like your finest stone you are using is a bit too rough. a strong bur means you spent too much time on the course stones and not enough time on the fine stone. then that heavy bur breaks off the tip when it finally snaps off. This is a common problem with EZE-LAP plates. their fine is about the same as the DMT coarse stone. Also, they flex a lot more than the thicker DMT plates. next time you sharpen don't even touch the two-course plates and just use the extra fine. use that one until you can just barely feel the button the back then go to the strop. you will need to do 60+ strokes as it is a bit on the corse side but it should then fall off rather than breaking off. if that does not work then send me an email and I would gladly walk you through it and see what we can do. the EZE-LAP plates have messed up a few others as their idea of grit is far different from others.
Wood By Wright I'll try that, but usually I'm barely touching coarse and fine stones (no need when I'm only maintaining the edge or just few strokes will do). But I'll get back to you after I'll try focusing on SF and strop. Btw, does it make real difference if i have thinner and softer leather? Because I have much thinner and softer one
harder leather is a bit easier to use. because you can put more pressure on it. with softer stuff just do not press so hard on it. that will cause it to wrap up around the tip. Basically with you just using the SF plate that would be like me using my medium plate. it is not great but with the polishing of the strop it should give you a usable edge.
Thanks for your help, I can't agree with Eze-Laps being coarser or bending tho. My friend let me sharpen few of my tools on his DMTs earlier and it turns out they perform pretty much exactly the same, he was using my eze-laps and in his opinion coarse ele-lap "feels" a little coarser than DMT, but others feel the same and the effect is pretty much same both for me on his DMTs and for him for my EZ. BUT, he does have really hard leather, I did some tests, sharpen on my EZ, use his strop, sharpen on his DMTs and use my strop etc etc etc. Turns out the leather was the case (we are using same buffing compound), on his strop bur fell off after 20-30 strokes. After so many combinations of sharpening tools only real difference was in leather. But the thing you mentioned with me spending too much time on coarse was true, after whole evening of sharpening I figured out system for sharpening straight blade (not damaged in any way): I'm not using coarse stone until i feel the bur, instead I'm stroking on coarse few times so i see most of the bevel with coarse scratch pattern (usually up to 5 strokes), and I'm starting to create bur on fine stone instead. That way it's fragile, and falls off easier on strop.
it is difficult to transfer grit numbers to diamonds as they cut differently. but here is a link to the exact plates I use. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
I’m looking in to purchase the dmt set of stones but don’t want to spend all at once on the three stones which one would you recommend buying first? The course, fine or extra fine. I currently use the sand paper method. Thank you for your great information and love your videos keep it up
you can live with just the extra fine as long as you don't let the blade get too dull. the other two just make it faster to grind back a really dull blade.
Hey, James. When I attempt to sharpen my plane iron it has a visible curve in it (I asked about it in another video). It thought it was due to over sharpening the corners, but it persists even when I'm just trying to flatten the iron. It's worse on one side of the blade, where the corner is about 1/32 lower than the high point. Any ideas? I'm able to get the blade sharp enough to shave hair, but not straight..
is it rounded side to side or tip to heel. it side to side it in normally due to uneven pressure or bad arm form. you will take off more material where you are pushing. if it is heel to toe the you are fine. all hand sharped irons have a bit of rounding that way
Thanks again for the response. It is side to side. I did realize that the plates I was using were hollow in the middle, so I'm pretty sure it was at least partially due to that, but it's persisting even on flat ceramic stones. I should be using relatively light pressure, correct?
@@christ9359 correct. You might want to use a cheap honing guide tell you get the teneque down. But basically only put pressure on the center of the iron now. Don't touch the outsides.
I’ve watched this video over and over and I can’t seem to successfully plane a board smoothly. I can shave all my body hair but not plane a board smoothly
Then it sounds like there's a problem in the plane setup. Feel free to send me an email I'd be glad to help out. There's a contact link on my website or the email is listed in the about me tab on the channel.
This is all very similar to the Paul Sellers tutorial. Having adopted his convex camber method I've got rid of my honing guide and the edge obtained is superior to the microbevels procedure and the edge obtained is stronger and lasts longer. But hey - as long as you get a decent edge with a minimum of fuss who cares!
Well done, there's nothing quite like the moment you finally get an plane truly sharp and set up correctly, for me that was the transition point from hobby to addiction.
So true. there are few things as enjoyable as curls from a fresh setup plane!
Great video, this is super helpful... I have several Hand Planes that REALLY need sharpening. Awesome job!
Sweet! now get to it LOL
Love the tip about holding the blade on an angle, I seen it on Wortheford and tried it, changed everything from the way it feels and the end result too. Keep bring then great ideas 💡, there have helped change how I do my wood working now 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
+theduck thanks man. That is about the best complement I could get.
The quality of the image is so good now in your shop that the detail makes me feel better about the condition of my tools and the type of process I'm following. Great note on setting the blade onto the frog and then pulling up a bit...very useful. Hey wait: IS THAT A FRENCH CLEAT?!!!! Dude, can't wait to see that video.
so true the camera tends to make things look perfect till you can get close enough to it. yup the FC video should be out Thursday or Saturday.
Well Done James,
We all just need to keep the process simple and remember to sharpen sooner rather than later.
It really does not matter the type of steel or the age, you are only going to get 80-120 sq ft of surface planing before you are dull.
The plane truly does feel heavenly once it is sharp, properly set and a little oil or wax on the sole.
Swwwwwwoooosh !
OH ya! love that feeling!
Thanks
Good narrating voice and instructional video. Thanks!
Thanks Dale.
It seems I am in a continual process of using tools and discovering better ways and tools and recycling the old ones...but I am a little attached to my wet stones...but I do see the beauty and convenience of this way of organizing oneself...and beginning to covet my neighbor's diamond plates...
LOL there few things as fun ad seriously high grit wet stones. so Shanny!
Great video I think a video on moulding planes would be a great topic. I'd like to get started with a set but I'm nervous about sharpening them and how to look for good ones to buy. Thanks for the help
+Holly Helton thanks holly. That is on my list. I am hoping to do a full series on them soon.
Nicely done. Have you ever tried switching hands to change the scratch angle when moving from one abrasive to the other? It can give you a next level sharp once you've practiced a bit.
I have done that, but find it to cut too fast on the diamonds for me.
I bought the $20 no4 plane. I had tried to plane with it but it was very hard so I flattened the bottom and sharpened the iron. ohh my gosh was the flattening ruff but it was so worth it. I found that window cleaner works better on low grits and oil works better on higher grits. love your videos btw, very educational.
Thanks man! got to love bringing an old tool back to life. so worth it!
Thanks for the info James! 👍
+Fred McIntyre any time Fred!
Do you ever put a slight camber on for blade to avoid track marks with your smoothing plane? If so, could you show you do it in another video?
nope. the only one I camber is the scrub or fore plane. I have never had issues with planing tracks.
Thanks!
This is basically the same process as sharpening a giant chisel isn't it? Also way to tease with the French cleat wall in back; looking forward to the video!
+ardenthebibliophile yup. Right on. What French cleat? What do you mean ;)
James, thanks. Great video. I have noticed the the surface of the chip breaker that touches the iron needs to be really flat. I kept getting shavings stuck in the space between the blade and chip breaker. That surface was really bumpy and irregular. Probably the original casting. When I flattened that surface on my diamond plates, it contacted the blade perfectly flat. No more shavings stuck in between the two pieces. Like the back of the blade, I probably only have to flatten it once.
right on! that will be tomorrow's video. it is often a problem on cheaper planes or ones that need restoration.
I will be very curious to see the angle at which you smooth that contact edge. I have seen conflicting angles. I rely on you and Mr. Sellers.
no particular angle. Just lower than flat.
I am a recent subscriber I know this video is older, but I have to thank you for this and all of your channel which I have watched 80% of since I stumbled upon it (3 weeks ago). I have had the desire to use hand tools and get into wookworking for about 5 years now and had a #4 plane sitting on my shelf for 4 years, due to sever back problems and everything being wrong with my plane ie not sharp or setup like you teach. It was to hard on me. But after watching your channel my plane is so dialed in that I can push it almost with two fingers if that was correct lol. Thank you for doing what you do subbed for life and I will be buying a card scraper from your store.
Thanks Robert. That means a lot. If you ever have a question go ahead and ask. I would love to help!
Great video...thanks as always...rr
thanks Richard!
Great video as usual James! I also see that you have been working on the wall behind you. Looks like a series of French cleats in order to hang more stuff on that wall. Anyway, looking good.................. Steve
+Sapele Steve thanks Steve. Yup that video will be out later this week
What this channel needs is more Dad jokes!
I have a fever!
that's what the lever cap lever does! i would have fumbled with that thing for hours w/o figuring it out.
glad I could help out!
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice as always :D
Next Video Idea, How to clean diamond stones, your look always so clean, You need to share how :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
+Blog das Madeiras I just use window cleaner and wipe them off with a rag every time.
Yes thankyou very much.😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆
glad I could help!
nice video, its the same technique i use and i think its the easiest to get consistant. allot of people use a circular motion which i think is harder to controll, and also suggest putting a micro bevel on which again i think is a bit hard form most people to freehand accurately.
I would suggest however you try and get the burr off and refine the edge a bit before getting on the strop. that burr breaking off leaves a pretty jagged edge that really cant be buffed out with a strop. also your using allot of pressure on the strop, which kind of negates the benifits of using a hard leather in the first place, because its rounding the edge off, which is mostly what using a hard leather is about.
Gary from the UK here. What in your opinion is the perfect bevel angle for a plane and Chisel blade? Many thanks, your channel is great.
+Gary Chandler I keep my bevel down planes at 30 degrees, my chisels at 25 degrees and my carving chisels around 12 degrees.
Removes windex brand label (presumably for it being on video) ... still calls it by the brand name. Lol. Great video, thank you!
LOL if you look at the old videos the label was on there. they will eventually come off as they get wet over the years. this one was actually a dolor store off brand. but I still call it Windex. lol
... and for the rest of us, there are those wet wheel slow speed sharpening systems that cost more than I make in a week... on a serious note... this one is, as always, an informative and entertaining video! I look forward to your video releases. Do you ever take your chip breaker and "sharpen" the flat so you will have a perfect connection when you tighten every thing back down? If so, want to do a quick 2 minute showing the process?
that one is on my list and maybe soon. I will sometimes have to do that on tools I restore.
You made my wife laugh out loud with your make pattern baldness. She hasn't heard that one before.
+Brian Prusa lol that is what I like to hear.
Great info, I really enjoy your videos. I know there are mixed reviews on what angle should the blade be sharpened but do you only sharpen your blades at a 30 deg.?
I sharpen the Bevel down planes at 30 degrees, the chisels at 25, and the carving tools around 12. but that is me. the steeper you grind it the easier it cuts but the faster it dulls.
surely if you leave the burr til the end you can't tell if a new burr is formed by the each grit? or does it only matter on the coarse stone? Great vid James
I look at the scratches. if you have new finer scratches on the tip then it has created a burr. plus if you grind on each step till you get a burr then you are removing a Lot of material.
Hi James, I've been looking at sharpening stones for a while, especially the ones that you use. The only problem is that they are a big expensive. Is there any other brand or style of sharpening stone that you recommend? Or is it worth saving up a bit longer and getting the more expensive stones?
Thanks so much, I love your videos
Garrett
in diamonds no there is nothing else I would recommend. you can go cheaper with wet stones, but there you have a lot more time keeping them flat. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening The cheapest in the short term is sandpaper on glass, but over time you will spend WAY MORE then diamonds.
Thank you so much for the quick reply!
Question. How do you know when iron blade face up or face down?
Almost all planes it's face down unless the bed is incredibly low and then it's a face up low angle plane. Usually that's only on low angle jack planes and block plans. Everything else is double down
I have used plane I just bought that has an uneven/curve across the iron. When you mentioned using sandpaper for the real rough stuff, what grit should I use? Gotta get this thing sharpened so I can build my bench. Thanks much
The more material you have to take off the corser the grit. For the really bad stuff I start at 60 grit.
Wood By Wright Thanks. Keep up the good work. 👍👍
Another great video, Thanks. I seem to be able to get my block plane going well but my Jack? keeps fighting me. Gaps between the chip breaker and the iron. Should it be sealed tight or is some gap Okay?
Hopefully that will be Thursday's video. it should be tight so you see no light coming between them
Hey James, the rocking at the ankles looks suspiciously like using just your arms.
When looking for a replacement plane blade where you buy decent quality blades? Specifically #4 #5 hand planes by Stanley. Thanks.
I usually pull them from old planes I have gotten that are not worth restoring they are a good source of parts. If you want new I love Red Rose Reproductions irons. but I just use old irons in all of my planes.
Help! Purchased a yard sale Stanley #4. In sharpening the plane it seems about every time I get it down to the burr edge when removing the burr the plane fractures leaving a jagged edge.
Any ideas on what I’m doing wrong. Thanks
there ate one of two problems there. #1 the Iron has had too much worn off and you are past the high carbon steel. the weaker steel there will break off. #2 the burr is too big and when you try to break it off then it takes more with it. what is your last grit before the strop?
J. Got your message. Will send pix to you tonight. I found out that this Stanley #4 is actually a Miller plane or at least that’s what the blade has on the back of it.
Again thanks for your help. I not exactly sure how to email pictures on here but the blade is 5 5|8 in length but the sharpening edge is within about 3/8 of the large hole end of the slot. Maybe you nailed it on the soft material. As I said I have reground the edge and think I have corrected the problem. So think I’ll reinstalled it and give it a try.
Now do you have any idea where I might get a replacement blade? It’s a 2” wide and is slotted just like a Stanley I think.
Have enjoyed watching all of your videos. Had a large red oak that had to come down and if I ever figure out how to send pictures on here I sent it to you. We use such for the most part here for firewood. Red, white Oak and hickory. If you lived a little closer I bring you a load of it.
Thank you so much for your help.
Your puns are out of control! great video.
LOL good so I am right on track!
So once I get a burr I should not remove until using the strop. Because I'm doing something wrong I've removed the burr after every grit and obviously takes forever.
that is how I do it. I don't mess with the back tell the strop unless the back needs it.
Wood By Wright Thank You James
Hey I bought a set of dmt stones but they sent me coarse / xfine / xxfine will this set work or I should return for xcouse /fine/xfine like your set what u think
That will work perfectly! And those ones will last longer.
Sorry if you already mentioned this, but why Windex over oil?
The Windex cleans easy and evaporates quickly without residue. Oil would be messy and it would hold the steel shavings in place rather then wash them out.
Do you lay awake at night coming up with your puns?
LOL no one wants me to go that deep into the puns!
One question: when I see people using whetstone, they often go as high as 6000, where extra-fine diamond stone is only 1200. Is there any reason?
Yes. Diamonds and whet stones cut very differently. And they will produce a different shine on the surface. The grits do not equate to one another those are measured the same they work very differently. Who is diamonds there is no reason to go any higher than $1200 so I usually follow it up with a strap to get that shine My heart so desires.
In case anyone is trying to get the same Dimond plates, in the description it says "medium fine", but I couldn't find that. Watching the video, it's just "fine"
yes they changed the names. now it is called Fine. thanks for the reminder. I will go and change it.
I believe that my plane iron is square(I have used my square to check it), but I can not get even shavings from both sides unless I move the lateral adjustor to the left side heavily(thus the mouth opening is much narrower on the right side than the left ) ,where may I be wrong?
It is almost always the case that the lateral adjuster is moved left or right very very rarely is it ever dead in the center. The mouth being open or closed on one side of the other means that the whole frog is turned side to side You should loosen the frog and adjust it so that the plane bed is parallel with the mouth. The lateral adjuster does not adjust the opening of the mouth only the depth of the cut side to side.
@@WoodByWright
Thanks for your patience,I should double check my frog
Always have problems with plane leaving tracks in the wood how do you solve that?
+Noknees Looney are you talking about with a smoothing plane left from the sides of the iron?
Yes. Any suggestions?
one of two things. that normally means the final shaving is too heavy that you can feel the difference. you can also solve that by sharpening/grinding just the corners so the last 1/8" on eather edge of the blade is cambered. does that answer your question?
what are your thoughts on stropping with bare leather?
I do it from time to time. especially with the carving tools. but rarely do I need to go that fine.
Personnally, I would not go without it. It really add something
I was fillowing every step of every video on sharpening, yours, Paul Sellers', I can't get any plane or chisel blade to shave my hair and I feel they don't perform that well. I'm using 3 eze-lap diamond stones and strop with compound, like everyone I saw, I have really steady hand while sharpening (earlier I was using guide), but after I'm done with stones I have really durable burr, I can't get it off easily, takes me hundrets of strokes on strop to take it off (makes no difference if I'm pulling back of the blade on SF stone before strop or no). Any advice?
it sounds like your finest stone you are using is a bit too rough. a strong bur means you spent too much time on the course stones and not enough time on the fine stone. then that heavy bur breaks off the tip when it finally snaps off. This is a common problem with EZE-LAP plates. their fine is about the same as the DMT coarse stone. Also, they flex a lot more than the thicker DMT plates. next time you sharpen don't even touch the two-course plates and just use the extra fine. use that one until you can just barely feel the button the back then go to the strop. you will need to do 60+ strokes as it is a bit on the corse side but it should then fall off rather than breaking off. if that does not work then send me an email and I would gladly walk you through it and see what we can do. the EZE-LAP plates have messed up a few others as their idea of grit is far different from others.
Wood By Wright I'll try that, but usually I'm barely touching coarse and fine stones (no need when I'm only maintaining the edge or just few strokes will do). But I'll get back to you after I'll try focusing on SF and strop. Btw, does it make real difference if i have thinner and softer leather? Because I have much thinner and softer one
harder leather is a bit easier to use. because you can put more pressure on it. with softer stuff just do not press so hard on it. that will cause it to wrap up around the tip.
Basically with you just using the SF plate that would be like me using my medium plate. it is not great but with the polishing of the strop it should give you a usable edge.
Thanks for your help, I can't agree with Eze-Laps being coarser or bending tho. My friend let me sharpen few of my tools on his DMTs earlier and it turns out they perform pretty much exactly the same, he was using my eze-laps and in his opinion coarse ele-lap "feels" a little coarser than DMT, but others feel the same and the effect is pretty much same both for me on his DMTs and for him for my EZ.
BUT, he does have really hard leather, I did some tests, sharpen on my EZ, use his strop, sharpen on his DMTs and use my strop etc etc etc. Turns out the leather was the case (we are using same buffing compound), on his strop bur fell off after 20-30 strokes. After so many combinations of sharpening tools only real difference was in leather.
But the thing you mentioned with me spending too much time on coarse was true, after whole evening of sharpening I figured out system for sharpening straight blade (not damaged in any way): I'm not using coarse stone until i feel the bur, instead I'm stroking on coarse few times so i see most of the bevel with coarse scratch pattern (usually up to 5 strokes), and I'm starting to create bur on fine stone instead. That way it's fragile, and falls off easier on strop.
what kind of lubricant use on diamond stone?
just window cleaner. it will evaporate quickly so the plates do not rust.
Do you have a list of pre-written Dad jokes, or do you come up with those intros on the fly?
LOL usually whatever is on my mind at that moment. I find the spontaneous nature makes them that much better.
What are the grits that you are sharpening with?
it is difficult to transfer grit numbers to diamonds as they cut differently. but here is a link to the exact plates I use. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
I’m looking in to purchase the dmt set of stones but don’t want to spend all at once on the three stones which one would you recommend buying first? The course, fine or extra fine. I currently use the sand paper method. Thank you for your great information and love your videos keep it up
you can live with just the extra fine as long as you don't let the blade get too dull. the other two just make it faster to grind back a really dull blade.
Thank you it’ll be nice to get a better edge on my tools
Hey, James. When I attempt to sharpen my plane iron it has a visible curve in it (I asked about it in another video). It thought it was due to over sharpening the corners, but it persists even when I'm just trying to flatten the iron. It's worse on one side of the blade, where the corner is about 1/32 lower than the high point. Any ideas? I'm able to get the blade sharp enough to shave hair, but not straight..
is it rounded side to side or tip to heel. it side to side it in normally due to uneven pressure or bad arm form. you will take off more material where you are pushing. if it is heel to toe the you are fine. all hand sharped irons have a bit of rounding that way
Thanks again for the response. It is side to side. I did realize that the plates I was using were hollow in the middle, so I'm pretty sure it was at least partially due to that, but it's persisting even on flat ceramic stones. I should be using relatively light pressure, correct?
@@christ9359 correct. You might want to use a cheap honing guide tell you get the teneque down. But basically only put pressure on the center of the iron now. Don't touch the outsides.
@@WoodByWright Thank you!
I love to see those little hairs of a burr fall off, just couldn't get that with the scarry sharp method.
It is always a nice thing to see it when done on the strop!
"this is plainly gonna be a sharp" - I think we're done here.
+cVictori lol thanks!
I’ve watched this video over and over and I can’t seem to successfully plane a board smoothly. I can shave all my body hair but not plane a board smoothly
Then it sounds like there's a problem in the plane setup. Feel free to send me an email I'd be glad to help out. There's a contact link on my website or the email is listed in the about me tab on the channel.
This is all very similar to the Paul Sellers tutorial. Having adopted his convex camber method I've got rid of my honing guide and the edge obtained is superior to the microbevels procedure and the edge obtained is stronger and lasts longer. But hey - as long as you get a decent edge with a minimum of fuss who cares!
"Planely going to be a sharp video"? And none of the whiners told you to strop it...
+TrollForge lol I need to use that one some time.
I still haven't found what I'm looking for...
I think you missed some editing, you repeated the same info twice a couple of times. Just letting you know
That intro was nearly enough for me to leave this video unwatched. Nearly.
LOL I will try harder next time. you will like thursday's then.