Make the Best Victron Lynx Distributor with LED Lights working
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Lynx Distributor + Disconnect + Smart shunt = ???
Updated for 2023 - • Updated 2023 - Victron...
Video for building LED cable
• Enable Victron Lynx Di...
sotasolar.com/...
Lynx Distributor
invertersrus.c...
Smart Shunt
invertersrus.c...
Disconnect Switch
invertersrus.c...
12-24 to 5v adapter
www.amazon.com...
12-48v to 5v Converter
www.amazon.com...
Just a suggestion for others:
Consider covering all of the circuitry section (towel, cardboard, paper, …) to protect from tiny particulate from drilling.
Support bar that you’re enlarging hole with wood elevated to ‘resting’ level of bar underside. Rather than pressing firmly down on Suspended bar
jan09’24/1012h 🇺🇸 @StansE250>> Sir thank you for the suggestion. My heart ached, viewing the Cu splinters flying into the circuit board. The best thing was to install the cover and secure it with the screws, and enlarge the mounting hole, thus avoiding conducting from falling on the circuit board. I am speaking from experience. Nothing wrong by enlarging the mounting holes, but filing the burrs would expose the Cu underneath the Ni plating, that might cause electrolysis by forming CuSO4 with the help of moisture, in the long run. This chemical process would cause high resistance in the circuit. (a difficult issue to detect) The issue can be avoided by smearing C based conducting grease to the exposed Cu.
This info for general public with due respect to the YT publisher (presenter) Thank you.
Legend: Cu- Copper, Ni- Nickel, CuSO4- Copper Sulphate (greenish formation of reaction of Cu and moisture), C based- Carbon powder based
A few inadvertent typographical errors were detected, which please note. Thanks.
Thank you, yes, we now keep the cover on all the time
Always great to search YT and find a video on exactly what your small project is for the day :-) I'm also working on packing the lynx distributor mounting and maybe also the shunt to that the three pieces lay flat on the mounting surface. I think it's needing 3/16 or 5mm behind the distributor and I have a 3D printed spacer for the shunt arriving this weekend. If it's too thick I can sand it down.
Your not wrong... that's a sweet setup.
It would be just nice if @VictronEnergyBV just made the Shunt and Switch. So they bolt on the Lynx Distributor. without all that messing about :)
Like many things in life , the best things sometimes require assembly :-)
Nice set up, thank you. I de-burr with a step drill bit, quick and easy.
Victron makes the Lynx smart shunt which is basically what you made, but better with a contactor, pre-charge and can bus.
We’ve used the smart shunt a few times, but we don’t always have the room for the Lynx shunt, Distributor and power in. This has been a nice neat compact option.
The Lynx Shunt just has the shunt, an ANL fuse, and the power supply for the distributor (plus monitoring electronics). It doesn't have the contactor. If you want the contactor, you'd need the LynxBMS, but that's only really compatible with Victron's smart batteries. Very good kit, but definitely on the pricey side.
On my boat, I wound up building my own DIY battery with the REC ABMS, which communications into the Victron ecosystem via CAN BUS, and acts pretty much the same way.
my criticism of the Lynx shunt (which I have one of) is that the anl fuse is not protecting the wire from the batteries to the Lynx distributor. No reason you can’t double protect. One of the primary reasons I like doing this is it also covers the positive terminal . That problem still exists with Lynx BMS. Only way it re gets solved is with a Lynx power in… but then we’re far outside the scope of this project and into proper Victron use cases.
I also run my own DIY battery bank. I have 32 in a 4p8s configuration with a 500a Daly BMS . There is support for it in Venus OS now with 3rd party drivers.
A counter sink would work good to clean up those holes
It's a nice simple idea, tidy. I have done this with a system build and it works great. What I would suggest is covering the inside circuit board while drilling out the holes. Those fine copper burs go everywhere and could short something out if they got into the circuit board.
Thanks for this video. We were going to have to build some really short 1/0 cables. This fixed that. You guys are great.
A nice way to do it.
Will do the same in the future. Thanks 😁👍
Trond, Nordic Off-Grid, Norway
C’est le meilleur des setup 👍
Nice little setup. I would not use a file on the tinned bar like that tho, you could even use the corner edge of the file to carefully deburr the holes & perhaps a slight sand of the holes edge, or a larger bit could be used probly by hand. Good vid. Thanks for sharing
JD and I have been working on other methods of deburring . I don’t like taking off the tinned coating , we tried a larger bit, it just made another burr. If you come up with a good method, let us know!
@@sotasolar larger bit in reverse rotation
@@sotasolar You already know the answer: a machinist's deburring tool. You mention in the video that you don't have one. Even is really nice one is only about $20, and basic ones are less than $10. If you're doing this sort of thing with any regularity, just get one.
A counter sink would work good
did the same makes the instal so much cleaner and compact.
If they did a all in one like this would be on point.
I did a setup similar to this in my RV but I hate how the mounting surface does not line up. So I used a piece of 3/8 thick 1 inch wide copper flat bar and bent my own very short bus bars. That connect the vitron to the switch and the shunt.
Would you recommend putting the cover on the distributor prior to drilling the larger holes keeping metal shavings out of it? It looks like a great way to install.
Probably , good idea :-)
@@sotasolar I know, the ones I see are big, guess will have to get wires out to mount the converter outside and run wires back into the distributor to make it happen.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Good idea man , i be trying that on my install next week , cheers bud👍
Thank you for your time and knowledge sharing 🎉
Wow super efficient. I may try this!
Terrific great idea
Dude you're awesome thank you
Thanks Shawn, nice one. Personally I don't use the Lynx series, I find them too expensive in a MH environment
When it comes to a fused bus bar capable of 500+ amps , I can’t build one from parts on Amazon cheaper. What solutions are you using? I do have projects that I want to save on from time to time.
Jaap de Wind .. I am interested in your answer as well
Great idea 🤓….makes sense
I did a similar thing but used a copper bar between the switch and the distributor and between the shunt and the distributor or modularity and worst case scenario I've ruined a few dollars worth of copper box
Gut erklärt, 👍😊
Don't forget that you can retinne the the buss bars with solder
would it not be possible to use a usb cable, adapted (power & ground) to supply the 5 v for the LED's. In the UK its impossible to obtain the step down set up parts you describe.
Great Video.
This is a great safety modification,. You are keeping the hot unexposed. Is there any issue placing the cut off switch far from the batteries. As I understand it, a battery cut off should be within 12 inches of the positive terminal on a battery.
The fuse / breaker is what should be close to the battery. Disconnect isn’t as critical.
Noob question: why do you put the battery disconnect on the positive instead of the negative. Battle Born and a bunch of other manufacturers say the negative side is safer. Just curious. Thanks!
There is an issue with clearance shunt+distributor - the shunt is ~3mm lower than a distributor which makes mounting not perfect. Washers under distributor enclosure help in this case, but I agree - Victron needs a better job with fitting their existing devices one with each other.
Hi,
Any chance you could tell me the measurements of the extruding bit of the bus bar outside the cover? Width, height and depth please.
Thanks
A bigger drill bit will clean the bits left with just a little touch
We recommend a step drill bit these days. Works great!
Great video, how did you make the 12v in to 5v 2 pin cable?
I can do another video on that.
@@sotasolar many thanks, that would be great. Sourcing the parts in the uk is impossible and it appears they are only available in the US, with postage costing about double the price of the parts
@@sotasolar please 🙏 do, will be following for more ideas on Victron. Thanks
Did you make the video ?
nice trick, I like it for simple installs but not suitable for setting up inverters in parallel unless you connect another distributor after your disconnect and only have your batterioes on the distributor you set up, but your MPPT's and inverters on the other one. Thanks for sharing.
Victron should make a longer busbar for those who have two or more side-by-side inverters (you know, parallel or three-phase) without having to play "Lego" to assembly a longer busbar like now, and with connectors both above and below to avoid to make turns with the cables.
Where did you get those step down converter from 12 to 5 ?
I think lock washers need to be with the nut or on a bolt that has no turn able nut. They aren't designed for electrical conductivity.
Any abilty To put a switch on that can broadcast its state? I like the manual override but can it be integrated with rest of system
Lynx shunt will report back to the cerbo GX
I don’t know why the mppt and dc2dc doesn’t connect either side of the lynx and make the whole thing one unit with an isolator and shunt incorporated.
Do you find that the base of the cutoff and the base of the shunt are level with the Lynx that way? Or do you shim one or both to level things out?
We used to shim it out but once everything is bolted together it’s is like a single unit. I do 1 screw on the shunt, 2 on the far end of the Lynx (maybe 2 on the other end but not as tight) then a few 3” screws on the disconnect.
Great video!. Question, where can I find a similar size voltage converter like that one for a 48 volt setup? Thanks.
I have so far not found one.
Could you make a 48volt version I can buy
I do have some 48 V versions
I'm pretty sure Victron sell a Lynx Distrubutor with M10 connectors.
They do. This is a hack job.
Доброго часу. LYNX SHUNT має два однаковых гнізда VE.Саn. Одне для зв'язку із GX, а інше глушиться резистором RJ45. Питання? Куди можна використовувати інше гніздо, яке заглушено буде RJ45, невже можливо паралельне підключення декількох LYNX SHUNT? Навіщо продублювали гнізда VE.Can?
jan09’24/0947h 🇺🇸 Thank you for the presentation describing the use of VICTRON Lynx Distributor, which educated me well educated. I bought the above device and the main shutoff switch. The VICTRON Shunt is on order to complement the circuit.
I did not understand the placement of 2 RJ11 sockets on either sides and the purpose of it, though I viewed one RJ 11 socket was powered 5.0V externally, “for the purpose of illuminating LED indicators”. Why so? I also viewed a 12.0 V Positive connection tapped from the main Busbar, to the circuit board. But missed to view the corresponding Negative connection. What was the idea, as to why, you had to wire an external 5.0V to illuminate the LED indicators?
Pardon me for the lengthy narration. I don’t, even, know if you’d ever intercept my enquiry, and if have ,by chance, did so, kindly respond. Thank you and best regards.
It’s made to work with the Lynx Shunt or BMs, which supplies the 5v and data communications. We’re just simul that to get the LED indicator as well.
I have two 400Ah battery banks that I want to combine ... can I do it with this? My thinking is to take the two large terminals to the multi plus and two battery banks to the distributor.
Lynx power in is good for this.
Do you shim the distributor since the corner with the shunt is on is higher? I could see the distributor rocking.
It’s not perfect, but we find sinking the screws in the far corners of the lynx, then the shunt and the disconnect works well. No rocking.
Does the inverter go on its own seperate fuse inside the lynx? I needed 6 pos bolt points and 6 neg for my system lynx doesn’t have enough!? Don’t like how close the neg and pos are in the lynx easy to short while handling live wires.
You’d be interested in this project then.
czcams.com/video/G2MGAby6ceY/video.html
However if you want to stick with Victron stuff you’d add a second one on it for up to 8 protected inputs / outputs.
If you’re worried about live wires our suggestion would be to use the main disconnect before performing any maintenance :-)
It sure seems strange that Victron didn’t make their shunt hole size the same as their lynx distributor?
It's designed to work with the Lynx Shunt
Why not just use lynx shunt??
Do you have a link to your vid on how to make your step down converter cable? I could find it on your YT page.
Enable Victron Lynx Distributor LEDs - How To Make Voltage Adapter
czcams.com/video/-ymhL5zxaWE/video.html
What amp is your 12v to 5v, step down converter?
You list 2 at 1.5A and 3A or is either fine?
New to all this and distributor too expensive to melt circuit board.
Amp capacity won't burn anything up. I use the smaller one in my 12v builds. Usually if I do a 48v build I recommend just going to the Lynx Shunt and then this little converter isn't needed. Here is my video on building the cable. czcams.com/video/-ymhL5zxaWE/video.html
What is the special cable? I couldn't find your video on it ,what it does and how to build?
I’ll do a video just on that. Explorist.life has a video on it.
If you have every connection fused and the main line out connected to the bud at fused why do you need an extra fuse?
Connected to the busbar
Not 100% sure I understand the question. In general, if power can flow in two directions, each end needs protection.
Well, Victron do make a shunt called simply 'Lynx Shunt'. So what you're saying is that Victron need to make a 'Lynx Disconnect', right?
Lynx disconnect + shunt with mid point tracking. We find that very helpful with higher voltage systems.
You do realise that Victron make an M10 version of the Lynx Distributor???
When we did this I don’t recall it being available.
That little cable that converts voltage down to 5v, does this come with the Victron Lynx Distributor or do you have to purchase or make it?
We do sell it, but nothing official online.
@sotasolar is this for sale on a web site? Link? I need one next week.
"mix between standard and metric"? Of course, you meant to say "standard and imperial"... the imperial is hardly used across the world. :)
That said, nice solution to get things mounted quite compact.
In these parts we’re still getting used to metric :-) and always losing our 10mm socket. Glad you enjoyed it.
@@sotasolar You'll get there. There's more metric in the US than most people think. ;)
Seems like a great idea, but what happens if when you put it all together and say the lynx distributor is no good or something happens and you have to return the lynx distributor did you not just void the warranty by drilling out the bus work? That's three hundred plus buckaroos down the drain!😢
Common misconception about warranties in the US and under the jurisdiction of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. The burden of proof is on the warranty issuer to prove modifications caused the failure.
That said , Victron and my distributors has been the best company I’ve had to work with on warranty issues. Ive had two failed units (both dead on arrival) and the one they wanted back to send to engineering in Netherlands to figure out what happened.
I think i have a Sunday Solar Talk video idea now :-)
@@sotasolar was not aware of that act, thank you for that information where can I find that information so I could read it for myself please
Not sure i have anything specific other than using the google machine. @stevelehto on CZcams has a bunch of content around it . Most of the content on it is around autos but it applies more broadly of course.
I couldn’t mount my Victron smart shunt like yours. The battery side was reverse of yours. I don’t get it. Why would Victron made them them both ways
You can flip them.
@@sotasolar no you can’t. If you try to flip it it won’t fit. Geez I tried that. It doesn’t work
@sunroy1 you have to flip the electronics as well. We do it on Lynx shunt often.
Didn't quite get what is the purpose of that extra cable connection there?
It enables the led lights which indicates if a fuse is blown.
@@sotasolarThere seems to be 5 LED lights on the device. Are they not functional without that cable? Will warranty of the device be valid after such modification?
@1yyymmmddd leds won’t work unless this cable is used OR Lynx BMS / Lynx Shunt is used.
As far as warranty goes, Victron warranty is very good. Secondly, without the cable, they don’t work anyway. If the cable failed the LEDs would not work again. No way the led ac me would cause its core function to be impaired.
Do you sell your little homemade cable?
Not officially. We will soon. Waiting to get our new web store up and make a few dozen.
Hi,
Does this sit flat on the wall after adding the disconnect and smart shunt?
You can secure it with screws and it won’t wobble. We usually install on a carpeted board so it all works out. You can space it out with some washers or some other material if need be.
@@sotasolar There's 2 cables coming from the pcb already, any idea what they are for?
Where does the shunt cable plug in, Aux or VBatt+?
VBatt
@@sotasolar many thanks
Use a larger drill bit it debur 😅
Note here- you are relying on cheap Amazon components here, prone to failure. Ask me how I know. It’s not worth it. You will know when a fuse is blown without looking for lights
So, 1st word was so.
Drilling like that close to electronics ? really ?
I could have been more careful. In later videos I now show using a step drill bit and covering the electronics.
Such a horrendous bodge, with clumsy tooling, and an unfused short-circuit risk introduced across the busbars.
Can’t see Victron rushing to follow your lead.
just use a step bit and COVER THE ELECTRONICS from chips.
Great tip!
Don’t you think it would be a good idea to cover the electronics before you drill
Yeah, in an updated video, we do this, but this video is most popular and we feel like the idea is good to share even if we have that mistake in.
It’s kinda painful watching this guy use of the tools.
I know right? Don’t worry we won’t leave the cover off when we do this. Was just nerves from knowing everyone was watching.
If not adding on to the Lynx Distributor I like to make a shorter R45 with the step down and run it off the unused end bolts. The wires are all out of the way at the end of the unit.
Il also shorten the SmartShunt power cable and connect it to the battery side of the power switch after the battery cable is connected. This way the SmartShunt doesn't lose its stored information when the system is turned off.
I tear those switches down and remove excess dielectric grease before using them in installations. The people putting them together seem to just gob the stuff in them often on the contact surfaces. That can cause issues later on.
When mounting the Lynx Distributor, ⅜" rubber faucet washers make really good spacers to account for the SmartShunt offset needed in this configuration.
Cheers😊
Great tips!
This is a terrible idea. Mangling it.