@@559925 I have no problem from them. My nephew has been playing with them for over a month and won’t go back to his regular controller. I use the Ginful he recommends on a previous video.
I love your videos on these replacement sticks, I've watched several and finally felt I understood how to remove my Dualsense sticks. As someone with no prior soldering experience, all I can say is you make it look so simple! I tried for hours to remove the solder, using all of the techniques you've gone over, but I just couldn't remove it. Now, bad workmen blame their tools, so I'm going to blame my cheap soldering iron for maybe not heating up enough but, in my heart, I know I'm just not very good at this..!
Sony uses lead free solder so it could very well be that you need more heat. It needs to heat up to 317 c for solder work. That means that your station has to heat up to 600 Fahrenheit and if the one you bought only heats up to 500 (common for leaded soldering) then your station isn’t getting hot enough.
@@originsmaster8140 Many thanks for the info, very useful. I might buy a new soldering iron - although, I could have easily already bought a new Dualsense with the cash I've thrown at this project so far..!
@@Willy_Elres it shouldn’t have been that much. I had never soldered before the videos MPE has put out but I bought a $20 soldering kit with the pump (made sure it heated up to 900 degrees) and $12 for the 10 pack of Ginfull v5 sensors. I did all 5 of my controllers.
Great advice for those new to solder rework! A lot of tutorials gloss over that or say to "just Google for it." Mark of an educator vs content creator!
another great video. I have not installed hall effect sensors on three controllers and still planning on doing a couple more from my controller graveyard. I play a ton of FPS games and stick drift + jitter was my biggest enemy. Now all of my old controllers are usable again. By the way, you make it look easy to remove the solder. It has never been that easy for me and I tried all of the same tricks you mentioned.
I love this channel, so much info. For me, it basically leads to me believe just straight up replacing alps for TMR would be less hassle than replacing sensors alone. It really does tell you that each "hall" is better with their own stick vs another. we may get truly swappable one's sooner or later but as of now, it just isn't worth it
I really love what you're doing here. I am a professional repair tech, so I have many a tools at my disposal but your tutorials will help so many newbies who are interested in repairing their electronics. Your videos are very simple to follow and so much detail in them to help folks out. Keep up the good work Sir.
I installed some TMR sticks in an xbox controller this weekend and destroyed my fingers in the process. There are a lot of techniques and useful knowledge in this video that would have saved be a huge headache. I'm hopeful that many people find this video because it is extremely helpful!
@@tiagodias3325 I did the whole module. I wasn’t successful as the board no longer works, but it was a parts controller that was already broken. I’m going to try to harvest the sticks and try again on another controller some time soon.
@@poobalu A shame it didn't work. I would like to try replacing just the sensor on my xbox controller, it seems easier that way and doesn't require other fancy equipment like a hot air station.
Great video. I can tell you the tmr joystick naturally sit higher then the base dualsense joysticks. So if you want like for like. It's best to stick to the stock dualsense joystick. I also find the tmr joystick tips to have less grip then the stock dualsense ones.
Thank you for the great explanation. I'm approaching to fix my dualsense (BDM 030) because of the drift issue and i'm waiting Gulikit TMR sensors to arrive thus i'm trying to understand what would be the best way to act. I was convinced that it was necessary to replace the entire modul but from this video I understand that it is sufficient to replace the ALPS potentiometers with Gulikit TMR "potentiometers". Can you confirm that there are no contraindications in simply replacing the potentiometers?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Yes, they have a version for the Xbox series. However, I would like to know if it is possible to exchange just the xbox's ALPS sensor for the gulikit's TMR because replacing the entire analogue is more complex and requires more experience. It would be great if the TMR sensor was compatible with the original Xbox analogue frame.
Does the tmr joystick sit lower compared to the apls joystick ? seen reviews that it does if you use the stock caps that go onto the analog stick besides the ones that come with tmr joysticks.
If i have a fancy desoldering gun, do you think it makes more sense to remove the entire joystick and then swap the potentiometers, which would avoid bending pins and inserting the sensors at an angle? Are there downsides to fully removing the joystick to do the sensor swap other than the effort involved in desoldering?
@@craftkiller9627 as someone who has removed the whole sensor, I would say there is no downside ESPECIALLY if you have the fancy gun. I did the swap to whole new joysticks before I found out that could just switch the sensors themselves. And I saw absolutely no dip in performance. Good luck :D
I've installed the Gulikit TMR in my Dualsense BDM-040 but the included Gulikit thumbsticks feel scratchy and seems to be being blocked by the controller. I've set the modules flush in the pcb so I can confirm it's snuggly fit but any idea what might be causing this? I've instead used the Dualsense thumbsticks in the meantime as those work without any issues and it's super smooth.
It does sound like they are rubbing on something. Is there any mold flash that is sticking out from the knobs? The GuliKit knobs do seem to be a bit tighter pushing on. The latest version of the DualSense I have is the BDM-020.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 there isn’t any mold flash or plastic sticking out. I’ve pushed the thumbstick down but it feels the dome shape is rubbing against the controller shell. Might be worth testing if you ever have the BDM-040 in the future! Great video as always 💯
The GuliKit TMR is my favorite for almost everything, Though I haven't played Call of Duty I believe this is a very good replacement for a potentiometer-based joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 that’s fine. Both their insides are the same but the TMR’s button wears out faster than the alps I believe and the alps is less lubricated than the TMR
Hi! What I don’t understand (I’m just getting into the topic of learning soldering and am thinking about first soldering iron) is this: if you have entire joystick module why limit the work to exchange only sensors? Is it that much more desoldering and soldering work for entire joystick compared to together 6 pins of 2 sensors? What I would worry is also the fact that you need to unclip and clip these sensors from one joystick to another. There’s some force and wear and tear possible or even damage in a little bit shaky hands I suppose which would make sensor unusable anymore? Please explain and correct me as clearly I don’t know exactly the matter but I am wondering. My aim is to replace all my joysticks with Hall effect/TMR joysticks but first I need to learn and practice. I wasn’t aware that pads on board shouldn’t be touched by soldering iron 😱 what can happen? If not instantly then what can happen in long run if too frequent? Your videos are great and I really appreciate your work! Thanks!
There is a lot more work replacing the entire joystick. Replacing just the 2 sensors is quite easy. You can touch the pads with the solder iron and not hurt them. But if you rub the iron tip on them at high temperatures they can become delaminated. It doesn't hurt anything to unclip and clip the sensors. the plastic on the joystick and sensors is quite tough.
The joystick frame is a lot more difficult to remove. The 4 pins of the frame are all soldered into holes connected to the ground plane. So without the proper equipment, it's very easy to damage the PCB. The frame can be cut apart and removed one pin at a time. Takes a bit of time but greatly reduces the chance of damage.
It uses magnetic sensors instead, so there are less physical parts to get clogged up or worn down. You can adjust and clean potentiometers to correct them, but it's not always viable. Hall effect and TMR sensors will last much much longer as a result.
I've never tried a Ryobi soldering iron, but 45 watts is pretty low. 60 Watts for a brand name should work. I'm testing some cheap irons from Amazon now. And 60 watts is not all the same that's for sure. If you can't make a solder puddle in less than a second on one of the joystick frame leads I don't think the soldering iron is supplying enough heat.
@@shaennaidoo9165 Which goes to show that this is a widespread problem that should have been a recall from Sony. I played Astro and Forbidden West and my right stick started drifting while my PS3 controller has thousands of hours on them and still work perfectly fine. I can't imagine how many PS5 controllers have been thrown in the trash since so many people will not even know they are repairable and will also not have the ability and time to repair them.
This channel is why I chose to go with all Hall effect sticks. 100% worth it.
They have been available for years
@@n64slayer I’ve only begun repairing controllers the past couple months. I know they’ve been around since the days of Dreamcast
But are they as precise/accurate as the stock ones?
@@559925 I have no problem from them. My nephew has been playing with them for over a month and won’t go back to his regular controller. I use the Ginful he recommends on a previous video.
That technique with the copper wire is genious. I love it!
Glad you like it!
after struggling to remove my pots, I literally had my jaw dropped
I love your videos on these replacement sticks, I've watched several and finally felt I understood how to remove my Dualsense sticks. As someone with no prior soldering experience, all I can say is you make it look so simple! I tried for hours to remove the solder, using all of the techniques you've gone over, but I just couldn't remove it. Now, bad workmen blame their tools, so I'm going to blame my cheap soldering iron for maybe not heating up enough but, in my heart, I know I'm just not very good at this..!
I too struggle removing the solder from the sticks. I use a heat gun now but that usually ends with me burning the sensor I am removing
Sony uses lead free solder so it could very well be that you need more heat. It needs to heat up to 317 c for solder work. That means that your station has to heat up to 600 Fahrenheit and if the one you bought only heats up to 500 (common for leaded soldering) then your station isn’t getting hot enough.
@@originsmaster8140 Many thanks for the info, very useful. I might buy a new soldering iron - although, I could have easily already bought a new Dualsense with the cash I've thrown at this project so far..!
@@originsmaster8140 I have one that gets to 500 degrees Celsius. It is probably just me and/or the soldering wick I am using
@@Willy_Elres it shouldn’t have been that much. I had never soldered before the videos MPE has put out but I bought a $20 soldering kit with the pump (made sure it heated up to 900 degrees) and $12 for the 10 pack of Ginfull v5 sensors. I did all 5 of my controllers.
Great advice for those new to solder rework! A lot of tutorials gloss over that or say to "just Google for it." Mark of an educator vs content creator!
another great video. I have not installed hall effect sensors on three controllers and still planning on doing a couple more from my controller graveyard. I play a ton of FPS games and stick drift + jitter was my biggest enemy. Now all of my old controllers are usable again. By the way, you make it look easy to remove the solder. It has never been that easy for me and I tried all of the same tricks you mentioned.
Thanks. You may need a soldering iron that can supply a bit more heat. Do you know how many watts your iron is?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 110 volts 60 watts
Love your videos, but my favorite part is the way do the narration. I got this tmr modules because of the information you have provided here.
I don't see joysticks getting much better than the GuliKit TMR sticks. Hopefully, the replacement will go smoothly.
I love this channel, so much info. For me, it basically leads to me believe just straight up replacing alps for TMR would be less hassle than replacing sensors alone. It really does tell you that each "hall" is better with their own stick vs another. we may get truly swappable one's sooner or later but as of now, it just isn't worth it
I really love what you're doing here. I am a professional repair tech, so I have many a tools at my disposal but your tutorials will help so many newbies who are interested in repairing their electronics. Your videos are very simple to follow and so much detail in them to help folks out. Keep up the good work Sir.
Thank you very much!
I installed some TMR sticks in an xbox controller this weekend and destroyed my fingers in the process. There are a lot of techniques and useful knowledge in this video that would have saved be a huge headache. I'm hopeful that many people find this video because it is extremely helpful!
Thanks.
@@poobalu did you replace the entire joystick on Xbox? Or Just The sensor?
@@tiagodias3325 I did the whole module. I wasn’t successful as the board no longer works, but it was a parts controller that was already broken. I’m going to try to harvest the sticks and try again on another controller some time soon.
@@poobalu A shame it didn't work. I would like to try replacing just the sensor on my xbox controller, it seems easier that way and doesn't require other fancy equipment like a hot air station.
Great video. I can tell you the tmr joystick naturally sit higher then the base dualsense joysticks. So if you want like for like. It's best to stick to the stock dualsense joystick. I also find the tmr joystick tips to have less grip then the stock dualsense ones.
The best way to desolder is to use the Engineer Solder sucker it's amazing
this way is easier.. i have a good one and this waaay is faster too
always good content
I put halleffect on Xbox Series X controler, now it pulls up every time I press LT. How to fix that? This new Gulikit TMR will fix that?
Nice soldering and camera view 😁
Dang, got some hakko equipment. Congrats on hitting 4k subs.
Thanks. They have been my favorite solder iron brand for decades now. And the FX-951 has been the best soldering iron I've ever used.
I just replace my stick with gulikit TMR. I really love it.
Bought all the soldering tools just try to do it myself. 😂
It's a good feeling, isn't it?
Hi, could you try xbox comtroller hall effect analogs? Xbox has a hall effect trigger so left hall effect analog could be a problem i think.
I don't have an Xbox.
Amazing video!
Thanks!
Nice video, thanks :)
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for the great explanation. I'm approaching to fix my dualsense (BDM 030) because of the drift issue and i'm waiting Gulikit TMR sensors to arrive thus i'm trying to understand what would be the best way to act.
I was convinced that it was necessary to replace the entire modul but from this video I understand that it is sufficient to replace the ALPS potentiometers with Gulikit TMR "potentiometers". Can you confirm that there are no contraindications in simply replacing the potentiometers?
You get better circularity replacing the entire joystick but it works fine replacing only the potentiometers.
Can you use it for the scuf envision pro and calibrate it with software?
Its possible on series controller? i dont want replace The entire joystick frame, Just The sensors.
I think GuliKit was working on a joystick for the Xbox controllers.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Yes, they have a version for the Xbox series. However, I would like to know if it is possible to exchange just the xbox's ALPS sensor for the gulikit's TMR because replacing the entire analogue is more complex and requires more experience. It would be great if the TMR sensor was compatible with the original Xbox analogue frame.
Does the tmr joystick sit lower compared to the apls joystick ? seen reviews that it does if you use the stock caps that go onto the analog stick besides the ones that come with tmr joysticks.
The TMR seems to be 0.01 to 0.015 inches shorter than the Alps.
why not use solder sucker to suck the lead?
If i have a fancy desoldering gun, do you think it makes more sense to remove the entire joystick and then swap the potentiometers, which would avoid bending pins and inserting the sensors at an angle? Are there downsides to fully removing the joystick to do the sensor swap other than the effort involved in desoldering?
@@craftkiller9627 as someone who has removed the whole sensor, I would say there is no downside ESPECIALLY if you have the fancy gun. I did the swap to whole new joysticks before I found out that could just switch the sensors themselves. And I saw absolutely no dip in performance. Good luck :D
@@originsmaster8140 awesome, thanks! In that case, I'll remove the whole joystick when I do the swap this weekend.
I've installed the Gulikit TMR in my Dualsense BDM-040 but the included Gulikit thumbsticks feel scratchy and seems to be being blocked by the controller. I've set the modules flush in the pcb so I can confirm it's snuggly fit but any idea what might be causing this? I've instead used the Dualsense thumbsticks in the meantime as those work without any issues and it's super smooth.
It does sound like they are rubbing on something. Is there any mold flash that is sticking out from the knobs? The GuliKit knobs do seem to be a bit tighter pushing on. The latest version of the DualSense I have is the BDM-020.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 there isn’t any mold flash or plastic sticking out. I’ve pushed the thumbstick down but it feels the dome shape is rubbing against the controller shell. Might be worth testing if you ever have the BDM-040 in the future! Great video as always 💯
Would you say these are the best joysticks for competing in call of duty or do you suggest another Hall effect?
The GuliKit TMR is my favorite for almost everything, Though I haven't played Call of Duty I believe this is a very good replacement for a potentiometer-based joystick.
What temp are you using. I have a hard time with the PS5 controllers.
750F
I must be doing something wrong I used 900 and still couldn’t get the solder out.
What brand of soldering iron are you using and do you know how many Watts it is?
New sub here. Nice job by the way! What macro lens you use for the closer shots? Thanks and take care!
It's a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lense. And thanks for the sub.
Are there any downsides to this compared to just replacing the entire stick besides the circularity error rate which can be fixed?
The only things I can think of are circularity and the fact that you still have the old joystick mechanical parts.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 that’s fine. Both their insides are the same but the TMR’s button wears out faster than the alps I believe and the alps is less lubricated than the TMR
Hi! What I don’t understand (I’m just getting into the topic of learning soldering and am thinking about first soldering iron) is this: if you have entire joystick module why limit the work to exchange only sensors? Is it that much more desoldering and soldering work for entire joystick compared to together 6 pins of 2 sensors? What I would worry is also the fact that you need to unclip and clip these sensors from one joystick to another. There’s some force and wear and tear possible or even damage in a little bit shaky hands I suppose which would make sensor unusable anymore? Please explain and correct me as clearly I don’t know exactly the matter but I am wondering. My aim is to replace all my joysticks with Hall effect/TMR joysticks but first I need to learn and practice. I wasn’t aware that pads on board shouldn’t be touched by soldering iron 😱 what can happen? If not instantly then what can happen in long run if too frequent?
Your videos are great and I really appreciate your work! Thanks!
There is a lot more work replacing the entire joystick. Replacing just the 2 sensors is quite easy. You can touch the pads with the solder iron and not hurt them. But if you rub the iron tip on them at high temperatures they can become delaminated. It doesn't hurt anything to unclip and clip the sensors. the plastic on the joystick and sensors is quite tough.
@@metalplasticelectronics354a lot meaning more points to desolder or there are other things too?
The joystick frame is a lot more difficult to remove. The 4 pins of the frame are all soldered into holes connected to the ground plane. So without the proper equipment, it's very easy to damage the PCB. The frame can be cut apart and removed one pin at a time. Takes a bit of time but greatly reduces the chance of damage.
Do the haptic magnets have any effect on the hall sensors?
Not that I have noticed.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thx. read up on the TMR vs. traditional hall effect, looks like they’re all around a better technology.
What are the best temps for soldering and desoldering with an iron?
Had the iron set at 730F.
how does the TMR joystick prevent eventual wear and tear? in comparison to potentiometer
There is no contact so no friction and wear.
It uses magnetic sensors instead, so there are less physical parts to get clogged up or worn down. You can adjust and clean potentiometers to correct them, but it's not always viable. Hall effect and TMR sensors will last much much longer as a result.
It’s a Ryobi and it’s 45 watts
I've never tried a Ryobi soldering iron, but 45 watts is pretty low. 60 Watts for a brand name should work. I'm testing some cheap irons from Amazon now. And 60 watts is not all the same that's for sure. If you can't make a solder puddle in less than a second on one of the joystick frame leads I don't think the soldering iron is supplying enough heat.
Do u guys think its worth it to install the gulikit tmr sensors on the dualsense edge even if the calibration software doesnt work on the edge?
Probably not. Give it a bit and maybe the information will get out on the codes for the Edge.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 oke cool, thanks for the respond
I mean if I'm going to open the controller I better replace the entire joystick.
It's crazy how even their super overpriced controllers don't have hall effect sticks but random $40 chinese controllers do.
Looking forward to when you are over this obsession with game controllers.
Look at his views for his other videos compared to the controller videos. I hope he keeps making controller videos as long as he enjoys it.
@@shaennaidoo9165 Which goes to show that this is a widespread problem that should have been a recall from Sony. I played Astro and Forbidden West and my right stick started drifting while my PS3 controller has thousands of hours on them and still work perfectly fine. I can't imagine how many PS5 controllers have been thrown in the trash since so many people will not even know they are repairable and will also not have the ability and time to repair them.
I do hope to get to some other projects soon. There's just not enough time in the day.
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!