Picking the Best Ceramic Coating For YOU | GYEON EVO RANGE
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
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Thanks Jon! I know this video was a lot of work on your part and your information is greatly appreciated.
wow awseoms thats the 3rd one of these ive got thank you Archie I really appreciate it.
Thank you Jon. That was obviously a lot of work. I plan on buying a new car soon and was looking at the Gyeon line of products for my protection because of the outdoor-friendly composition. Your in-depth video really helped me with my decision. You're the man.
Have a look at the Adams graphene too which is super easy and very solid.
Here's something you should try which we have had great success with. This was also recommended by Gyeon. Instead of topping Mohs with Skin, try and top it win CanCoat. I got my car to 94.3 on gloss from 91.6 and it got by far the slickest finish I have ever felt aside from WetCoat or the new wax. Same goes with water repellent abilities.
I might try this as the Skin seems to be more difficult to apply. Thanks for the tip 👍👍👍
@@SteveLBMK You're welcome. If you really want to make it stupid slick, do a double layer of Can Evo on the Mohs Evo. Lots in the can, so might as well🙂
Make sure that you let the Mphs cure for 3-4 hours prior to CanCoat. You can also opt to do it the following day. Just make sure that you don't use Cure before the CanCoat. Use cure about 1-2 hours after finishing off the CanCoat.
@@AB-80X Absolutely will do, cheers 👍👍👍
I am interested in trying this! Do you have to apply it a couple of hours after the MOHS or does it not matter. I’m not sure if it needs to cross link or it just goes on too? Thanks. Bri.
@@BriFree100
Yes. If you want to use CanCoat Evo as a top coat, you need to apply it before the Mohs has started to fully cure. Wait about 90-120 minutes depending on temperatures, between the applications.
I'd go for Pure on nice coloured cars and Mohs/Syncro for the others, it's a different kind of gloss.
Going to do a Syncro with the whole compounding/polishing on the 7~ year old car of my dad, going to be a great present.
Used the old Pure as the first Ceramic Coating on my own car which wasn't all that hard to apply, just got to go at it with a good amount of detail and precision. I used 3 different type of micro fiber cloths for it and it came out stunning.
This evo range seems like it'll be super easy.
Some have said the Pure makes darker paint colours pop more
Which would you recommend Mohs or Pure for dark grey metallic paint?
@@KingRockets Pure EVO
Difference with Light coating version in packaging is you get no Cure product and an applicator is smaller .
I installed PURE outside on the driveway and it came out well . Lighting is your worse adversary than the elements . Just watch out for dust and pollution, wipe the panel with IPA before every application, not in advance because something will settle down eventually in few moments when outside ...
Thanks for this video Jon, I bought Gyeon Q2 Pure EVO right after I got my new car. I plan on a FULL detail when I apply it:
-Bilt-Hamber Karrosol to decon the paint⚠️
-Bilt-Hamber Auto-foam to do a strong pre-wash👈
-Feynlab RW mixed at a strong ratio for carwash💡
-303 polish w/ Griot's Garage 5" orange pad to level the paint, GG6 machine🛎
-Gyeon Q2 Prep to ensure there's nothing left...anywhere❗️
-Gyeon Q2 Pure EVO as the LSP😉
While doing the pre-wash I'll clean the rims real good, like I usually do and will spray some Sonax Wheel Shield on them. During the process I'll be using CarPro Retyre to strip the tires and follow up with some Feynlab tire coating🤘
Glass coating will be handled by TAC system Rain Coat, all exterior glass👍
Once coated I'll wait the standard 1 week till I wash it and the main washing will be done using CarPro Reset and Bilt-Hamber AutoWash and pre-wash duties will fall to Touchless and Auto-foam respectively💯
Better safe than sorry!
Using something like Touch-Less a week after, is not a good idea and way overkill - it's a really bad idea actually. Keep anything high pH away for at least a month. Also, a week is the minimum for first wash, two is better.
Why are you planning on using both Autofoam and Touch-Less? Don't fall into that bad habit of buying a load of products you don't need, they basically serve the same purpose. With your coating, stick to Touch-Less for occasional washes, like bi-monthly or at the beginning and end of a summer season.
If you wash your car regularly, like once per week or bi-weekly, here's a pro tip.
Buy a 5l jug with a tap on it. Pre-mix your normal pre-wash in this jug so it's consistent and easy to use.
Try the following ratio.
Put in what will amount to a 1% PIR Touch-Less for a 5 litre mix. Depending on your foam lance and setup, that will typically be between 130 and 150 ml of Touch-Less. Add 400 ml of Meguiars Ultra Foam as a foam booster. Fill up with water. That's your "day-to-day" wash. If you have your foaming down, you should be able to foam your car with about 300 ml. Effective and consistent with little waste, not to mention gentle on your coating. If you need something for winter, do the same, but with a 2,5% PIR of the Touch-Less. Just don't do this on a weekly basis. Usually most people tend to go a bit longer between winter washes, simply because it sucks to be in the cold washing a car. If you don't change your washing schedule over the year and wash 2-4 times per month, just stick with the softer blend.
The main thing is to always remember that a coating is only as good as the treatment it gets. For the same reason, when doing the contact wash after the pre-wash, just use your pH neutral shampoo in a bucket and the pH neutral snowfoam without the Touch-Less as a lubricant like you normally would.
Finish off with either WetCoat or Ceramic Detailer after the wash.
Don't overthink it.
Oh another little thing. When you are done with your compounding and polish you should wash your car down with dishwashing soap - just use your lance with 50 ml of soap and 300 ml of water. Then run a quick mitt over the car to agitate it to make sure you get the dust off and out of gaps etc. Takes like 5 minutes.
This is also used as the final step before using prep and installing the coating when the Pro series of coatings are used. It is a misconception and misinformation that you go from polishing compound to Prep. The car needs to be washed after with the dishwashing soap. This is even explained in the Gyeon tutorials.
wow great timing Jon - going to be applying ONE soon. Agreed with you on why i chose ONE over the others totally. Amazing work into these reviews 👍 Gyeon now offer a fantastic range to us - they look awesome and allow people to get into detailing by offering products that are easy to use.
Did you ever get around to do One?
@@AB-80X Yep been applied for around 5 months now. Super impressed with ease of application, the hydrophobicity and especially the ‘self cleaning’ aspect - you really can tell the coating is keeping the car cleaner for longer. Have no doubt it was last. Maintain with CeramicDetailer and Wetcoat. Will top with Gyeon Wax at some point 👌
Great video John. I'm a big fan of the Gyeon Q2 Wax. It would be interesting to see what effect the Gyeon Ceramic Quick Detailer has on the coatings.
I love their wax. I use that and gyeon qd on my personal cars.
Great video, you've definitely put a fair amount of time into it. Any chance of a short follow up touching on the outdoor friendly aspects of the application, we don't all have garages 😉😉
Will do
i use the Pure Evo now. ..its so easy and soo very glossy that peoples eyes start watering after looking at it 😅 for Hugh spots just apply the coating over the high spots wait 20 seconds then buff off right away boom gone. this works with all coatings
I was really waiting for this video, that's great 👍 👌 👏
Thanks for the great video. Must have been a lot of work and I really appreciate it. Subscribed!
Great video Jon. I used the original Cancoat as had two cars to do and a motorhome. Got close to 12 months with it as I see others have online. Now have Cancoat Evo and expect 12+ months easily.
As always very informative! Keep up the the great videos!
Thanks John, another good review👍. Just made my mind up what one I'm going to use when my new car turns up, going to try the Syncro.
Jon, if you dont know how to pronounce MOHS, just turn the bottle over and pronounce it "SHOW". Love your channel.
I was rewatching this again as I'm getting a new car soon and had forgotten about these.
I love Gyeon products. But I want something that's going to give more gloss if I'm honest.
Great Video John. I just completed my first ceramic coating using MOHS. It was such a easy product to apply, so much so that I ended up using the entire 30ml bottle on a hatchback. Oops, Lol. It got its first wash on the weekend after 2 weeks curing and I have to say it is such a Bead Monster. Really happy with the product and ease of use. I also found the the slickness improved over the next few days after application.
Thanks John, that must have taken you ages! Really in-depth review there. I went with Pure Evo as they describe it as a “candy gloss”. It does look different to my previous coatings. Not sure how you would measure this though. Really pleased with it, I think Gyeon have a really strong line of products right now.
i love geon's drying towel
Awesome work John... Appricate the hard work and your invaluable experience
Thanks for all effort that went into making the video Jon, excellent information as always. I will stick the tac moonlight for now but I think I will invest in the synchro kit when getting a new car.
Absolutely thrilled with this video, was waiting for it 🙏
A great in depth look and testing which is important when looking at all aspects of coating your car, Jon simply does a thorough real world testing how you or I would do. Quartz and Graphene coatings have come a long way- what would Jon be looking at in 5 years time?
Great video John.
I’m looking to move up from TAC Moonlight. Im seriously considering giving MOHS a whirl. They all appear to be great products, especially if the durability claims stand up.
Huge thank you for putting in the time and effort in your videos. It's helped me choose my first ceramic coating. FYI... I'm going to use it on both my car... and my shower tiles in my bathroom! Yes.. we have a new bathroom with some silly-choice textured tiles which are going to be a dirt/water/grime magnet... so I'm going to ceramic coat them! (and the car) :D p.s. Have you seen/tried the ARMOR SHIELD IX ceramic coat? It seems to have a following for ease of use and final quality.
Thanks for posting this! Very thorough and interesting. Think I'll try that wax first!
Very helpful. I’ve been trying to decide which product to go with. Leaning towards MOHS.
Good choice!
Thank you for such explanation. Awesome job.
Meturtleglym checking in here 🤣...its a hard choice I'm thinking the wax and the One used together even the wax and MOHS...decisions decisions🤔👍bang on vid as per usual thanks for your insight and knowledge, look forward to the next one😇🙏
Awesome video as usual. How are these on trim, glass, plastic and vinyl? I know mohs they used to specifically say don't do it. That could be a reason of pure works on those surfaces
Great vids John can’t stop watching👍🏻but is it mohs or SHOW?😁
Mohs m8
MOHS is the MOHS scale of hardness, as in si02 is very hard and tough on the MOHS scale.
Always great information from Sir Jon Delieu 👌😄👍🏆🏆🏆
thank you my friend you are a legend
Nice video, what's the best Ceramic coating for newly refurbished wheels? Thanks
CeramicPro or Gtechniq
gyeon rim
I’m doing my new car and I’m going to go with you’re choice 👌👍
great review Jon
Cheers John, great video. It's pursuaded me to try one.
Quick question, kit comes with one towel I know prob need three to do a car? Two for first leveling that soaks up the product then another buff perfectly any recommendations as they are going o be thrown away?
Great products the skin mohs been using for years also the PPF evo is great product can last 24 months 👌
Jon can you please review Sonox new Ceramic sprays, its like their new version of BSD.
will try dave promise. just working on a few videos at the moment.
Now u want me make ceramic coat my car, problem is I’m too poor
Can i ask what spray that is? The new one.
Thanks very much Jon for all the effort you put in to create these highly detailed videos. One tiny point though, it may be worth taking 5 seconds to insert a disclaimer as to whether or not the video is sponsored or not. I know from many of your previous videos you clearly state that the particular product you are reviewing was purchased with your own money. You know Pan a lot better than the rest of us, but he has had some adverse publicity with this type of thing. On a lighter note, I watched one of your videos and have bought a tin of double speed wax to play with. What a great product.
It’s in the top left corner when you play the video
VERY informative, Thanks for video
Good hard work - well done that man
Just got 50ml of Mohs Evo to apply to wheels and body.
Hoping I don’t have to use Gyeon Ceramic Detailer to maintain it as the water behaviour of it on its own is pretty poor. Would rather keep the Mohs behaviour. Whether it’s different over the top of a coating I’m not sure. But using it on its own over winter I’m not impressed.
Things have moved on since I last applied a coating with Reset, Descale and Restart Shampoos and toppers. I think I will stick with the shampoos to maintain. If it dies then I’m probably going to avoid coatings in future.
I’ll just stick with Siramik Lustrous Plus Spray has been doing a good job in the time I’ve been using it
A coating is only as good as the treatment you give it. There's no way around doing something. If you really like beading water, use WetCoat rather than Ceramic Detailer. I don't think there are many products out there that have the same water repelling abilities and self-cleaning abilities as WetCoat, especially if you top off Mohs Evo with CanCoat.
Quick tip to using WetCoat more effectively.
Rather than just spraying a few pumps of WetCoat on to a panel and then blasting it with a pressure washer, try the following.
Mix 75 ml of WetCoat and 225 ml of water in a 500ml-1000ml mist sprayer. That way you can apply it more evenly on a panel with more pumps. After applying the WetCoat to the panel, have a small wet MF towel ready and just use it to quickly spread the coating over the panel. Then hit it with the pressure washer. Don't overthink it, just use the wet towel to wipe over so that the coat is spread evenly Takes seconds and you are left with no streaks or blotches. Just keep your towel dripping wet by keeping it in like a dishwashing tray or something. After doing it a few times, you should be able to do the car in like 5 minuts.
After doing this treatment, your car will be insanely easy to dry off.
@@AB-80X Toppers etc weren’t a thing when coatings were introduced. They’ve been introduced because initial water behaviour/ self cleaning dies off within 6-12 months, not the years these marketing companies claim.
I used Wet Coat over temporarily last winter on wheels. It’s gone between washes of a week or two. It looks good when you’re pressure washing it off, but it’s gone by the next wash. Don’t believe it does anymore than that. Either that or BH Touchless strips it off @2% at the prewash stage.
MOHs has lost its initial slickness, I applied in August. It doesn’t clear water as much whilst driving now on the bonnet/roof/rear like it used to which aided the self cleaning ability.
Gyeon Trim has lost its water behaviour, applied at the same time. This is after Iron Decon, Gyeon Restart, CP Reset and CP Descale Washes. I’ve covered about 6-7k miles in this time. Prep couldn’t have really been any better. All cleaned with APC, brush and magic eraser. Washed and prepped with Feynlab Pure Rinseless, and Gyeon Prep. Car was out of the elements for 14 days. Didn’t see rain until day 20.
I’ll try your Wet Coat method after winter as I’ve got some left, I expect MOHs will be pretty much dead by spring. Or at least a level of performance which I’m not happy with.
@@Justin-ny6un
2% PIR of the BH prewashes will kill most things. That’s way too aggressive for regular washing. I get 6 weeks and 3 washes easy on wet coat. Wet coat on wheels is a bit of an odd one. Reality is that there are better solutions for wheels. Wet coat also does not like the extreme heat. I use Kamikaze Stance and see about 2-3 years of good effect depending on the use of the car. Part of this is because I don’t need to use wheel cleaners.
Now the prep is as you say a big deal. One thing I have found makes a difference is the final wash after polish and before using Prep. I was taught to use dishwashing soap when I attended my training course to get certified to use Gyeon pro coatings - and it does make a difference. It is a misconception and misunderstanding that products like Prep are enough to remove the residue after the paint correction. So much so that it is actually specified in the Gyeon tutorials.
It is also important to be aware of the temperature when installing the coating. I wish Gyeon would be more open on this. Now the consumer coatings do not need big infrared heat lamps like the pro coatings to bond, but they do need at least 20-21 degrees and preferably 25 C or more.
But again as I said in the beginning, that 2% BH pre wash on a regular basis will kill your coating fast. With a coating on, you shouldn’t need to use something that aggressive especially if you wash your car frequently. I only use something like that biannually on a winter daily and only once per year on a summer car.
Here’s a suggestion. If you want to use a pre wash try this.
Get a 5 l jug with a tap on it and use this to have a premixed pre wash that you simply fill into your foam lance. No mess and consistency.
Put in what will give you a 0.75% PIR of touch less. For most MTM users that would mean about 115-120 ml of product in a 5 l jug. If you run an MJJC it will typically be in the 90-95 ml range.
Now to this mix you add a good pH neutral snow foam with good emulsifying properties. I have used the MaguiarsUltimate Snowfoam in a 2% PIR with good success. This would typically mean about 300 ml or 250 ml for a 5 l jug depending on your lance. So in short, 0.75% PIR BH TL, 2% PIR snow, and water for the rest. I suggest using demineralised water. Not because it makes a difference on the car, but because it leaves your mix with a better longevity as there’s nothing in the water to degrade and break down the soaps.
So now you have a nice and easy to use prewash you know is safe. I use this on a car with Gyeon Matte Evo and cars with Mohs Evo topped with CanCoat Evo. My wet coat applications last and so does my ceramic coatings. For contact wash I just use the new Chemical Guys Blizzard to foam the car, basically a line, and then just a bit of the Meguiars in the bucket as a shampo.
Easy and simple. It just works for me. And my wash bay is not cluttered up with a myriad of poducts I don’t need.
One final suggestion. If you have a lot of bug splatter in the summer that the prewash struggles with, use an enzyme based bug remover rather than something with a high pH. This will get them off without killing your coatings.
Just some ideas.
Fantastic vid! Thanks Jon! 👍
Thanks
oh wow thank you Avus thats awesome.
Awesome content and editing😮😊
Hell of a video!! Thank you
Hi Jon , ive searched but couldn’t find a video on how to prep a car for reapplying something like a diy ceramic coating that is as long lasting as the professional stuff
czcams.com/video/URzgY-tN5pA/video.html
watch this mate.
Seems like Mohs is the way to go..not sure why someone would buy Pure... i had heard that Pure gives a different look than Mohs would. Better for silver colored cars etc...dont know... great information thankyou
I would go mohs over pure
You missed a golden opportunity to arrange the coating bottles in a manner so they line up and say "One Pure Skin Show" by tipping the mohs bottle on its head in the thumbnail shot.
We all know you should be ashamed for missing that crucial detail ;)
Cracking comparison video Jon. Quick question, for a beginner with a silver car, what do you think ? Cancoat, Q2 Wax or ....... Moonlight ?
If u machine polish your car your ready for cancoat m8
Probably a hand polish with Gyeon Primer, but thanks for the very quick reply. Cancoat it is ! Cheers.
Thanks Dude!
How do you use it? Could you do a full video from start to finish? I'm wanting to try it but unsure where to start and everything. Thanks...
Jon has definitely done videos where he has applied ceramic coatings from scratch. I would also recommend that you check out Obsidian Detailing, who has loads of useful tips 👍
Amazing video!! Thank you. How much prep would you recommend on a brand new car before adding a ceramic coating?
It depends m8. Some new cars are hammered some are good
Most new cars at the moment are pretty good because they haven’t been sat at the docks long did a new car last week put some bh korrosol on it and not one bit of red showed up 👍
Thanks both, we shall see! Fingers crossed
I like to apply wax and sealants but recently moved to Spain and concerned about the heat resistance of wax. Previous experience in the Middle East was that wax products were useless. They simply evaporated. Any experience on this?
Hi love your channel is it safe to use autoglym poler wash system on on ceramic coating just get Gyeon Q2 Syncro EVO just get it for my gla
Jon another Great video and very informative, just taken delivery of my new car which had been treated with autoglym lifeshine would I be able to use any of the basic Gyeon ceramic coatings?
You could need to machine polish to remove lifeshine
@@ForensicDetailing cheers Jon, I guess I can use Gyeon wax ftb.
Where’d you get the fancy suit, Jon?
I summond it from concho
Was wondering where you get your test panels , thanks
Great video! How would MOHS evo compare to ceramic coatings from other brands in terms of hardness/swirl resistance? I have used it on my dark coloured Honda (so pretty soft paint) and after 2/3 washes I was seeing swirls where the mitt had been (all safe wash methods followed and used a blo drier to be extra safe)
That's tough m8 very tough to answer. 8 can day these coatings are very hydrophobic. But scratch resistance hard to test
@@ForensicDetailing yes it would be interesting to see but not sure how to test it. Am I right in thinking that some ceramic coatings may be more resistant to swirls compared to some car paints? Or is that asking too much of a product
Great Video Jon. Could you dispel or confirm a ceramic coating myth for me please. I have been led to believe that ceramic coatings are an absolute pain to remove? A friend took his car to the body shop the other day, for repair and respray, they moaned like hell that he had a ceramic coating on the car. I'm a massive Fusso coat fan, so will need some convincing regarding ceramic coating.
They are a massive pain to remove prematurely yes.
I have applied the ppf evo ceramic coating to my Tesla with a matte xpel ppf film. Would you say it’s a good idea to apply the ceramic detailer after it cures in 12-24 hours? As a sacrificial layer?
Use gyeon cure for that m8
Hi Jon-
I subscribed to complete my journey to the dark side...
Question - have you reviewed Cerakote trim protector/restorer? I've seen quite a number of positive reviews but you've earned my trust, so I'd like your thoughts...
will try my best mate just caught up in some bigger comparisons for a while but will try
@@ForensicDetailing Much appreciated. It's kicking everything else off the shelf.
You can use Can Coat for your Trim
When should we apply cure right after coating?
Not immediately m8 give it an hour at least
I use can coat and it's amazing
Hi! Do you apply with microfiber cloth or applicator?
What is the shelf life once opened? Great video.
I'm not sure but typically 3 to 6 months is what peeps say generally
can the old or new version of PURE be used as a sealant on newly refurbished plastic headlamps?
Yes m8
Which one of these ceramics would you recommended for the color white?
the color has no bearing mate. MOHS is prolly the best of the lot i think
Hi Jon
Excuse my english
If i put mohs how meny time hi waite before hi top whit cancoat?
Thank
That's for gyeon my friend
I love this channel.
I used pure for my first time coating. I have alot of high spots. Can I use primer for remove those spots immediately or better wait 2 weeks for completly coat cure? Best regards
I would be surprised if you can remove high spots without a fairly heavy compounding.
@@AB-80X I use gyeon primer with soft pad for remove high spots and it works fine
Hi Jon, after applying gyeon pure evo is bilt hamber auto foam in a snow foam lance ok to use as a pre wash? Or is it too harsh? Thanks!
Fine m8
@@ForensicDetailing thank you!
Just keep the PIR low. 1-2%.
I was wondering if you could clarify something for me. The syncro kit gets 50 months is that with only 1 layer of mohs? Will it increase if you add an extra layer of mohs?
Question for gyeon really m8 I don't know
I asked this very question when I attended my last training course with Gyeon, and the answer I got was the following.
No. Too much Mohs Evo can cause bonding issues with the Skin top coat. If you want to add an extra sacrificial layer to Syncro which also has better self-cleaning abilities than Skin, use CanCoat Evo. If doing this, I was told to wait at least 3-5 days before applying CanCoat Evo to Skin.
Lastly, Syncro CAN last up to 50 months, but that will take some proper upkeep and a pretty mild environment.
It seems that the geyon line is something youre a big fan of. How do you think the syncro kit stacks up to csl and exo. Or cquartz and gliss? I guess i should give them all a try but you’ve peaked my interest in trying the syncro kit and definitely going to try the wax and can coat now for sure.
I've compared them in s video m8. But it's a bit out if date now.
why the hazmat suit ?
:) :) :)
Hey Jon, you going to waxstock this year?
No m8 track day
MOHS by a long shot.
MOHS? 😁😁
SHOW!
Jon, would you use gyeon wax on top of any coatings or do you think it will clog them up? I have put gyeon wax over can coat and also over pure. My thought is I like the behaviour of the wax but as a superficial layer, if I forget to top it up, I still have something underneath.
I would prolly go with wet coat, cure and the ceramic QD.
@@ForensicDetailing cheers, I'll have to use up my 4lrts of quick detailer first, heard nothing but good things about ceramic detailer. Thanks for putting that out there, excellent content as ever!
I like gyeon but their star system in relation to primer is rubbish. They give it a 3 out of 6 cut. I really like primer but it doesn't cut much. Maybe a 1.5 star lol
Yes it's low on cut your right
What’s the best for white car Mohs or Pure? 😬
mohs
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks Jon very much. Wasn’t too sure as shine or candy look 👍🏻
Pure, no doubt
WAX FTW
So much numbers but no clear information, Take Pure for candy finish and take Mohs for a Glassy finish beading and sheeting almost the same if you have to much money take syncro. Its just that simple. so i broke down 32 mins in 1 sentence.
First like
2nd
According to gyeon the pure makes dark cars have that deep wet look vs the Mohs. Did you notice that at all?
not sure I noticed that mate. was a few years ago though so hard to remember.
@@ForensicDetailing lol that's true. I just started getting into detailing and I'm trying to find a good product for my customers and I think this line is the best one right now or would you recommend another brand?