Nikon F Meters and Accessories.
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2024
- Features of there Nikon Photomic meter prisms and how they work as well as some of the accessories for the Nikon F single lens reflex 35mm film camera.
Email questions to jlvphoto@yahoo.com
Link to eBay for the adapter to use silver batteries in the FTn www.ebay.com/usr/bennfoto?_tr...
Link to my Nikon F video • Controls, features and...
Link to my Nikkormat FTN Video • Nikkormat FTN features...
Link to my Nikon F2 video • Controls, features and...
Link to my Nikon F2 meters video: • Meter finders for the ... - Jak na to + styl
These videos are invaluable for me. I just purchased an f today. It has 5 lenses 4 viewfinders and a whole bunch of accessories. It was all found in the attic of an old house in the mountains here in Idaho. I got super lucky with my purchase. Thank you for the link for the adapter for the batteries.
I have a Apollo Nikon F and I love it!
Just got my Nikon F! Perfect classic!
It’s a great camera. Enjoy.
Very valuable video. I just purchased a F with SN 643XXXX and truly appreciate the great info provided here. Cleared a bunch of questions I had. Thank you. I subscribed!
Thank you John. I also have a video on Nikon focus screens for the F and F2 that you may be interested in. I would be happy to answer any questions you have. Just email me. jlvphoto@yahoo.com.
great video, ime the best looking SLR
Great video. Just got one of these in the mail today. A knowledgeable presentation. Thanks. Beautiful camera.
Thank you Jack. Enjoy.
I really enjoyed this video. Very well done and informative. I just purchased my Nikon F last month.
Thank you Louis.
Just found your channel tonite and subscribed. I have an Ftn and use it. the front clamps made me less nervous about hitting the finder and have it raise up. meter is still fairly accurate. enjoyed watching your other vids. also, Thanks.
Thank you Tom for your comments. The clamps do make the FTn more secure, however back when I was use the Photomic T, I never had it fall off.
Would love to have the F with an eye level finder. Actually i have an F2 but the shutter is stuck. That would be a cool camera with an eye level finder to go with my F3hp.
i actually have a diffrent version of the first photomic, with something like a mailbox flag as a turn on/off switch
I know of it, but never saw one in person. Thank for watching my video.
I can see you are working a long time with this camera system.
Yes. Since 1972.
I thank you for saying “ISO” instead of “eye so” as kids these days say.
Because I’m old I sometimes say ASA. As long as we know what it means I don’t think it matters. I agree I don’t like when people say “eye so”. Thanks for watching my video.
awesome video! how do you compasate the iso for the lr44 batteries? greetings from mexico
The camera can be modified. However compare the meter reading to a meter of known accuracy and then adjust the iso accordingly.
This is a very useful and well made video - many thanks. However, there is one error. At 3:20 minutes in the running time in the video you say that, when using the early Photomic Finder with the EXTERNALLY reading CdS cell, the ASA setting on the finder needs to be re-aligned with a number on the scale which runs round the outside of the ASA scale, each time a lens is changed. You state that this outside scale represents the maximum aperture of the lens. This is incorrect. This scale, which has the same numbers on it as the similar scale found on the original clip-on external Selenium-cell coupled meter made for the Nikon F, is actual a series of FILTER FACTORS. Those numbers read 1.2, 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3.2, 4. They are not F-stops. In normal use, the ASA number on the inner dial should aligned with the ARROW HEAD on the outer dial and left there. If a filter is fitted to the front of the lens, then the ASA setting should be realigned with the appropriate filter factor number instead. With the later TTL style metering, this is not necessary, of course, because the light which the behind-the-lens meter sees is already reduced by the filter itself. With an external metering system there is absolutely no reason why the meter should ever need know what the maximum aperture of the lens is. This information is only needed for TTL systems which are used in conjunction with lenses having automatic stop-down diaphrams. With these systems, there is usually a difference between the metering aperture (i.e. the maximum aperture of the lens) and the taking aperture (i.e. the aperture set on the aperture control ring). External meters only need to know taking aperture whereas TTL meters need to know how many stops DIFFERENCE there is between the metering aperture (i.e. the max aperture) and the taking aperture. By initially adopting external meters on the Nikon F, Nikon got themselves locked into their famous "rabbit ears" coupler (which is always centred on the f5.6 engraving, by the way). The rabbit ears directly transferred the taking aperture setting from the lens to the meter via the sliding pin on the finder. When Nikon changed to TTL metering in around 1963, they were faced with either changing this coupling system for something more appropriate (which they did eventually introduce in 1977 as the AI - "automatic indexing"- system) or with persisting with the rabbit ears. At the time, they chose the latter to avoid making obsolete all the F-mount lenses which they has produced to date. However, this meant introducing an extra clutch-type mechanism in the finder body which would register the max aperture of the lens when the aperture ring was twisted through its full range. The user had to align the rabbit ears with the sliding pin when fitting a lens and then had to carry out the well known "Nikon Shuffle" to make the metering correct. By introducing their premium SLRs a few years later than Nikon did, and by having TTL metering in them from the outset, most of Nikon's competitors avoided this pitfall. When Nikon's AI coupling method was eventually introduced, Nikon offered a low-cost service for replacing the aperture rings on nearly all of their "Pre-AI" lenses and they carried out this operation for tens of thousands of lenses. The replacement "AI" aperture rings had a step in their back face which was positioned at the same distance from the maximum aperture engraving for every lens and which pushed against a spring-loaded lug on the metering finder, or on the camera body itself in the case of the Nikkormat FT3, Nikon EL2, FM, FE, etc. This modification enabled the meter to know how many stops difference there were between the metering aperture (i.e. the max aperture) and the taking aperture without the complications of the clutch and the shuffle. With the AI system, the meter does not know what the actual taking aperture is. Therefore, on the FM, FE, etc., Nikon introduced a periscope so that the aperture ring setting could be seen in the viewfinder via an optical path. As it happens, the requirement to reset the ASA number against a maximum-aperture scale each time the lens was changed (as described in the video at 3:20 minutes) did actually apply on the original Nikkormat FT model. This camera body did not have the clutch device, presumably to keep the price down. However, on the subsequent Nikkormat FTn, FT2 and EL models, Nikon did introduce the clutch in order to remove the inconvenience of doing this.
Thank you very much for the clarification.
What are the yellow numbers for? In the opposite direction of the filter factor numbers there is a yellow 4, yellow 2, and a yellow dot. Thanks
Hi I have the Tn meter, does the battery adaptor can it also be use for this one?
Hi do I have to adjust the IOS when using on 1/3N Lithium battery in a Nikon F FTN finter, thank you.
You do need to adjust the iso. Install the battery and check the reading against a meter you know is accurate and adjust accordingly.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 thank you very much Jules.
FYI According to the Nikon F Handbook Copyright 1968 the spiral bound binder book that if you set the B shutter set, and then set the self Timer then trigger the self timer, and then as the timer is winding down that the then the shutter goes off at 2 seconds..... Yes you forgot to mention the Nikon Tn which that was the Center Weight Nikon as in 1968 came the Nikon Ftn as when you remove the lens that you HAVE to Reset the Meter Cam Pin as it was just like the first true center weight was the Nikkormat Ftn with the 50mm 2.0 lovely lens, and Sharp as HELL.. And again that you had to reset the Lens Cam on the Nikkormat as well too. I never like the 50mm F1:1.4 lens too soft, and very low contrast..
and I do not think that they did the Threaded PC Socket for F only the F2, and Nikkormat Ft2, and you forgot the Polaroid Magny Back that took 3x4, and 4x5 film...
You are right about setting the shutter speed to B and using the self timer to get a 2 second speed. The late model Nikon F’s with F2 cosmetics did have a threaded PC socket. They are sometimes referred to as Nikon F Apollo.