Meter finders for the Nikon F2 and how they work.
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2021
- Nikon F2 Photomic finders. DP-1, DP-2, DP-3, DP-11 and DP-12. Descriptions, features and how they work.
Email questions to jlvphoto@yahoo.com
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Any discussion of the F2, and especially the metered finders, would be incomplete without the mention of a man in the UK named Sover Wong. Mr. Wong is the world’s foremost expert on the operation and maintenance of the Nikon F2. He had the foresight to purchase all of the available new old stock parts from Nikon when they decided to stop production of F2 parts, and because of that, he is the most well-equipped and qualified person in the world to service the Nikon F2 and all of it’s associated components. I have had him service 4 or 5 of my F2 cameras and each one is as close to “factory fresh” as can be. Sover Wong is simply magnificent at what he does. I encourage anyone with an F2 to seek him out if they’d like their F2s to work perfectly for several decades to come!
Agreed. I don’t think he is currently accepting any new work.
This answered so many questions. Thank you for uploading.
@@nopenada8071 Thank you.
I appreciate you so much. Thank you for taking the time to make as much videos as you did for the Nikon F series. Sometimes reading the manual is not enough and demonstrative learning is better!
I’m glad my video helped you.
These are artwork, just like to glare at the engineering. thank you!
I've been using my F2AS since I bought it new in the late 70s and never knew about the long exposure procedure you explained in this video. Thanks for providing another tool in my film photography tool box. Can't wait to take some waterfall, lake, and ocean shots to get that creamy smooth effect on the water.
I picked up an F2a yesterday and I’m just living on your channel now to get knowledge! Your channel is my go to anymore. You explain things perfectly and clearly. Thanks for your input on the F2 vs F3 question i had earlier in the week. Appreciate you taking the time to answer!
I have the F2 with DP1. This is by far my favorite camera. I love the feel, the heft, the craftsmanship...I have a few Nikon's (among them the F and the F3), a few tlrs, and some digitals (Fujis and canon) . Your videos are great for any vintage Nikon SLR owner.
Does your meter work well?
Greatly appreciate this vid. I was knocking my head trying to figure the meter on my own.
Thank you for watching, glad to be of help. Which meter finder do you have?
Thank Levi for this Helpful video
After coming across I clearly new what and how I should get my Slr film camera.
I am living in Japan and I mint condition slr film cameras and lens are still on the market…
Thank you for that. I have an F2 and an F2as. You've taught me things I didn't know.
Sir your knowledge is very impressive. I am currently in the process of buying my first F2; while I have owned many Nikons in the past, your videos about the F2 have been a big help. Thank you for making this! +1 sub.
Phoenix, AZ.
Thank you for you comments. Good luck with your F2 purchase. It’s a great camera.
Thank you for the video refresh my memory on gear and variety of makes and model
Great video and very informational! Helped me make my choice on a F2.
Great video, and very helpful to me. I have a F2Sb, which I haven't been using for some time and it was good with repetitions of what to do, and not to do. Thanks again.
This helps a lot. Thank you so much sir
A great video, this really cleared up the subject for me and I'll be checking out your other videos. I have a Leica Q2 monochrom which I'll still keep but I'm returning to my original love, the Nikon F2 AS. Just trading pixels for grain!
Great information, thank you very much.
Great video! Learned a lot
Excellent lesson, thank you..
Great review, thx a lot
This is great!
Thank you.
Great video. Subscribed.
Thank you
Gracias !
Nikon f2. The best 35mm camera ever made
I would say the best mechanical 35mm SLR. Thanks for watching.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 maybe, I haven’t used the electronic ones that must have a battery. 🤔 this is all I need for mostly anything unless I want bigger negatives.
Great video! Can you explain what the window with apertures in the front of the viewfinder does?
It shows you what aperture is set when you look into the finder.
I like my dp3 finder.
Great video, thank you! Im putting new batteries on my F2. I managed to get the 1.55 volt. Are they safe to use? My main concern is the extra 0.05 volt in the 1.55 batteries. Do you know if that can damage the photometer or bring inconsistent meterings? The camera manual mentions 1.5 volt batteries.
Thank you. The Duracell D/L 1/3N 3 volt or the Eveready 2L76 are easy to find and work perfectly in the F2. 2 1.55 volt batteries may give up an incorrect reading but shouldn’t damage the camera meter.
I have a really good condition F2 with the giant meter prism. Unfortunately the shutter is now stuck and I can't shoot it. Super bummed because i wanted to put a slick eye level finder on it and shoot sunny 16. oh well
Hi thanks for sharing this, súper useful info. I just in my hands an f2 and I have a question… idk if you can help me. When I got the camera, the ASA wheel was sticker… then I remove some screw and loose it bit and was able to pull and twist the ISO (ASA) how it’s supposed to I guess lol. And I noticed it’s nothing mechanical the way it works, so my question is, how does that wheel works? How does the camera recognize what ASA it’s on? Thanks again!
Edit: forgot to say thay I have the D-11 A
Thank you for your comments. You lift the silver ring and turn it to set ISO. If you loosened the 3 screws around the outside of the ring and turned the ring you may have moved it off of its factory position. I would set it to ISO 400 and check it against a meter that you know is accurate. Take a reading off of an even toned wall in even light with the F2 and another light meter and if they are within a half stop of one another then you don’t need to do anything else. If the F2 shows more than a half stop difference, loosen the 3 screws and adjust the ring until the readings match. I hope this helps.
Excellent and very clear video. I have a question if that's ok - on top of my DP12 finder there is a tiny 'hole' no bigger than the head of a pin recessed into the plastic and there's a small tab with raised ridges about 4mm x 7mm. Can you tell me what these are please? I bought the camera two days ago and have never used this model before.
Thank you for your comments. The small hole is the external meter indicator. When it turns green your exposure is correct. The switch to the right of that is for finder illumination. It will light up the display in the finder. Enjoy your F2AS. In my opinion it’s the finest mechanical SLR ever made.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Oh wow!! Thanks for responding so quickly Jules. I've just tried these things and they work exactly as you say. I was on the point of sending it for a service so you may have saved me some money. Again, many thanks.
Thanks for all the info. The F2 is my daily carry with the DP1 finder. I'm hesitant to poke around with it, how do you access the view finder eyepiece for cleaning?
I have never taken an F2 eyepiece apart. You can clean it from the outside with a cotton swab moistened with a drop of lens cleaner. By removing the finder you can clean the top of the focus screen using very light pressure with a moistened micro fiber cloth. Just use a bulb type blower to clean
The bottom of th screen
having trouble mounting dp-11 ND DP-12. The feeler resets/spring back before you reach open aperture.
I’m not sure how to fix that. Try a Google search. Thanks for watching.
Very informative video. Unfortunately it didn't answer the question I was hoping it would. Does anyone know.......
If any of these finders have the same viewing experience as the HP finder on the F3, whereby a spectacle wearer can see the full image area through the eyepiece? Any info on this would be appreciated.
The F3 HP is the high eye point viewfinder. The F and F2 finders are not high eye point, so you may have to move your eye around to see the entire frame.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thanks for the reply. I actually owned an F2 Photomic at one stage, but couldn't remember if I could see the full image. I own around 17 or so Nikon/Nikkormat bodies but find I tend to prefer using the ones with full viewfinder coverage while wearing glasses (F3, F100, F90x).
It was just that I saw a lovely F2 for sale where everything had been tested, lubricated, adjusted with a guarantee and I thought "Hmm I wonder..."
Thanks for your help though, much appreciated.
you have a usa accent. do you specifically hang on to the softer canadian nickel for opening the battery cover?
How bad the issue with cds cells memory with dp-11? How much time does it takes for cells to lose its memory? And does needle in dp-11 moves more, dunno how to say, in a gradual way? For example, if I under/over expose by half-stop, will needle show strictly - or +, or it's gonna be more gradual, in oppose to dp-12 when it's only by 1/5 stop and then it's just + or -
The memory is not that big a problem and it’s only going from bright sun to inside. The DP-12 will react quicker in low light and is more sensitive. Photographers used meters with CDS cells for many years and learned to live with the few minor issues.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 but in case of taking pics during the sunset, I can see how this memory effect might be an issue
I have currently the F2 with DP-11, and in order to get one for my non AI lenses, which one you recommend me to get DP-2 or DP-1?
I recommend the DP2 it has cds cells like the DP1 but greater sensitivity and led read out.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thank you Jules, I will go with your advice 👍🏻
I have the F2 w DP1 and love it but the meter went out. It still works but. is super underexposed. It seems like they're either unrepairable or not worth repairing. Do you have a recommendation as to which viewfinder to replace it with it?
The DP12 is the best meter finder for the F2. It uses SPD cells which are much better than the CDS cells in the DP1.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 thank you!
Solid tutorial Jules! I'm a beginner and just wondering if I should old onto the preview depth of field button whilst pressing the shutter button when having a AI-lens on. When I got my F2A with Dp-11, it was attached with a non-AI lens and led me into hesitation. Pls help!
This is when taking the actual picture.
Look at the front of the DP11. Right above the letter A you will see a small black switch. Below the A is the coupling for AI and AIS lenses. To mount a non AI lens that coupling must be pushed up into the finder. With the lens off push that coupling up into the finder. Then when metering press in the depth of field button. To mount an AI lens after removing the non AI lens, push that switch above the A to the right to drop the AI coupling back down. You do not need to press the DOF button in to meter with AI and AIS lenses. I hope this helps. I’d be happy to answer any other questions.
Jules
I just reread your question. You don’t have to hold down the DOF button when taking the photo. Only keep it pressed while taking a meter reading with non AI lenses. After centering the meter needle in the viewfinder by adjusting the aperture or shutter speed release the DOF button and take the picture. Do you have any AI lenses?
Amazing. Thank you. Alas, the clutch thingy under the A is solely there to assist with light metering and not the aperture setting when taking the photo? Why I am asking is because I’ve had a non ai lens, however been holding down the DOF simultaneously with the shutter button. Since today, I now have a AI-S lens and would love further instructions for capturing a correct exposure when composing photos. Thanks again! All the best.
@@christophersamuelslarsson5922 with Ai or AIS lenses no need to touch the DOF button unless you want to observe depth of field. Just center the needle and shoot. I have 3 beginner videos on cameras, exposure and depth of field search for them. Again feel free to ask me any questions. When I was starting out 50 years ago I had to figure everything out myself from books. No CZcams back them. I’m happy to help a beginner. By the way, you made a great choice with the F2. In my opinion it’s the best mechanical 35mm SLR ever made.
Hey Jules, do you find the DP1 meter to be accurate? I have two and they can sometimes be perfect, and then way off in other situations. What’s you’re go to method for metering on the F2?
The DP1 uses CDS cells which are not as reliable as the silicon blue cells in the DP12 also the ring resister in the DP1 may need to be cleaned. There are videos on CZcams showing how to do this. My DP1 is very erratic, so when shooting the F2 I use the DP 12 finder. You have to remember that the DP1 was introduced in 1971 so it’s possible your finder is over 50 years old. I would suggest a modern hand held meter.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thanks! I thought similar things. Any advice on a good hand held meter?
I can't find any videos on ring resistor cleaning here on youtube, hmm.
Very much enjoy your videos by the way, thanks!
@@flowermaze___ Search on Google. I saw instructions on cleaning the F2 resistor several years ago. I use a Sekonic Flashmate L-308X-U. It reads both reflected and incident light as well as flash. It takes 1 AA battery and sells for around 225.00. Check B&H.
The main reason DP1 metered finders start losing their accuracy is because of wear to the ring resisitors in the metering system. They simply wear out. The original ring resistors were wire resistors instead of carbon or other types of ring resistors. Most all can be be replaced/repaired by Sover Wong in the UK.
Another question, can the DP1 effectively stop down and meter lenses without rabbit ears?
Yes. Just hold in the depth of field preview button when metering.
I prefer the non-metered prism finder.
My DP-11 works when using stop down metering with DOP button, but does not auto index with my AF-D lens. The lens does move the piece attached to the finder but it the meter does not move. Any idea why that could be?
Your saying the meter needle does not move? Make sure your AFD lens is not locked at the minimum aperture, otherwise I don’t know why. I will check it out with my DP 11.
Hello! Jules, what do you think how accurate dp 11 or it is the same as dp 1? I think about purchase it.
When new both would be as accurate. However the DP 1 first came out in 1971 and the Dp 11 in 1977 so there may be a better chance that it still works properly. The older the CDS cells the less likely they still are functioning. Would you consider a DP12? That would be my choice.
Thank you! Actually, I am choosing between them, there are several items in good condition, so I decided to find out if there is a big difference between dp 11 and dp 12.@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696
A question, I got an early F2 made in 1972, body only, if I find a DP-12 viewfinder I can use this with no problems, and the spec will be the same as on a F2AS?
Yes. The bodies are all the same, unlike the F , that required a slight modification to mount the Photomic T and later finders. Your F2 will be a F2AS when you mount the DP-12.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thank you!
Where is the DP-12 getting the shutter readout from? Mine has said 250 like forever on or off camera. It Meteres otherwise. Light works as well.
It's a mechanical connection with the shutter speed dial on the finder. It should change in the viewfinder as you turn the dial whether or not the finder is mounted on the camera.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 that’s what I was thinking. So something uncoupled inside maybe? It doesn’t change on or off camera. Moving ADA or not different positions. I don’t really use the EE auto aperture but I presume that’ll affect its movement! Otherwise, it’s meter responsive
@@khanscombe619 you are probably right. Something became un coupled.
Curious! But didn't the FTn finder of F physical fit F2 & if so, can it properly meter the pre Ai with the fork?
You can mount it on an F2, but it doesn't couple to the shutter speed dial.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 forgot about that. I wanted to display it for looks anyway. On an extra F2A silver body for that classic FTn look. It's iconic. My early F isn't molded to fit it anyway
Is there a lightmeter when you remove the viewfinder?
No, the meter is in the finder. The first Nikon camera with removable finders and a meter in the camera is the F3.
We should have a beer
I feel like I’m messing something here but I don’t understand how to set my iso on my Nikon f2 is that even a thing with these cameras? 😭 I have the de-1 prism
The DE-1 is the standard prism finder without a meter. The is no ISO setting unless you have a meter finder such as the DP-1.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 ah makes sense! With my de-1 finder do I just meter the aperture and shutter on my own and everything should be good?
@@tonenzo111 yes. Use a handheld meter or the sunny 16 rule.
DP-12 question: My finder release lever is broken. Can I replace it with a finder release lever from a different finder, say a DP-1?
The finder release lever on the DP-12 and DP-1 look exactly the same, so as long as you know how to remove it, it should work. Let me know how it works out.
My repair guy says the lever is held on with a screw behind the leatherette, so I'll start looking for a finder with an intact release lever. Any suggestions besides eBay?
@@atleewong7636 Try KEH or Robert’s Camera.
No go with KEH, waiting to hear back from Roberts.
Do you prefer the f2a or f2as ?
F2AS because of the meter display. LED’s vs a needle.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 from what I’m reading you can get more accurate with the needle on the A and do more with it, more reliable. But thats just what i read. I really wanna get an AS though.
Aside from what you mentioned is there any other reason why the AS would be better ?
@@EM-km8em The AS will meter in lower light levels and the LED’s are easier to see in low light.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thank you! Last but not least Do you prefer the F2as or the F3 ?
@@EM-km8em Difficult question. Both are excellent cameras. But if I had to choose one it would be the F2 because a battery is only needed for the meter.
Please clarify: I think you mentioned the DP-12 uses a “Silicon Blue Cell meter”. I could swear that’s what you said. If so, this is incorrect. The DP-12 uses a Silicon Photodiode (SPD) meter.
Edit: after further reading, maybe it’s me that’s confused. Is a silicon blue cell meter the same as a ‘Silicon Photodiode’? Same meter, different names?
I believe they are the same, but now you got me wondering. I will look into it.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 👍. Either way, I’m confident they’re much better than CdS meters.
Dp3 uses silicon blue I believe.
@@geradebowden2692 but again, is that just a different name for the silicon photodiode?
This from Camera-wiki: “Later, more sensitive meters were made, with Cadmium Sulfide (CdS) photo resistors or silicon photodiodes (PD, or SBC; 'silicon blue cell') as sensors.”
Apparently blue cell is just another name for silicon photodiode.
Use different color background so video is easier to view.
Thank you
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 listen to your video a few times. Need a DP1 or better. Suggestions on where to purchase?
@@anthonydavis4829 KEH and Used Photo Pro ( Robert’s Camera) are reputable and offer warranties.
@@julesvuottosphotofocus4696 Thank you and keep up the great work.
@@anthonydavis4829Thank you. What color background would you suggest for my camera videos?