How I Sharpen My Mora.
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- This video is about How I Sharpen My Mora. This is what works for me. I have found it very effective at keeping my Mora knife sharp week to week. If your knife requires regular sharpening, this should work for you. If your knife has nicks or the edge has been severely rolled, your knife might require a bit more attention.
The stone I use is a water stone by Taidea, model T6310W. Only use water with this stone, soak it for about 10 minutes before using it. You can find out more info at Tiadea.com
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cuZHrq-zQ4Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing the worst MORA BUSHCRAFT I have ever seen! - [WATERSTONE SHARPENING]](/img/tr.png)
In Japan, the sushi chefs soak the stone in water before sharpening. All the air bubbles have to be out of the stone before they begin sharpening.
Yeah, agreed. Best to check the manual for the stones again. Mine look the exact same and they are supposed to be soaked completely before use (as you stated). Also during use it might be necessary to add a bit of water to the surface. It can be a bit of a mess but that way you get the intended "grinding sludge" and real good results.
@@1stbreed659 The stone was soaked for 30 minutes prior to use. The one thing I have been doing differently is flooding the stone with water as I sharpen. Thanks again for commenting!
Thanks exactly the way I'm going to do mine I just bought a new Moro/Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade.
Biiiig hands, I've never seen mora knife looks so little in hands like a toy. Great video for work.
I sharpened my mora into zero but thought to do micro bevel
Thanks for the Vid, viewing in 2020 and I have the same stone just purchased it in august of 2019. Try stropping on a piece of cardboard sometime. It is actually Works VERY well and it saves your belt.
Thats a great idea, I'll try it. Thanks for watching!
Great video, great knife. I use to sharpen moras (scandi/sabre grinds in general) in my favourite shallow scandivex/sabrevex grind getting rid of that bold shoulder giving them slightly convexed bevel with my wet stones finishing with leather strop. No micro bevel. Zero convex. It holds sharp edge better, and glide easier when it comes to feather sticking, deboning games, and dressing fishes. It also baton better because of less drag and friction. It takes a little more time and effort the very first time but compensates with future sharpening easiness, and way better quality in action.
Thanks for the information. Good stuff!
great video man... simple and effective. I mastered my ax sharpening skills now I have to master knife sharpening. Thanks for the good information.
Consider a honing rod. I was a butcher for a long time and a honing steel will extend your sharpening intervals enormously.
I sharpened for 20 years on a Norton tri stone with 100, 200 and 400 grit stones. I mostly just used 100 grit and stropped with news paper laying on top of the stone.
Before I learned why we strop I noticed the more I used my honing steel after sharpening, the sharper it got...then I learned why. The steel removed the burr.
And that toothy 100 grit edge would cut ribeyes in one push pull stroke.
Also, in the field you can roll down your window and hone on the edge of the glass....it will straighten your edge out. What most consider a dull knife that needs a touch up really just had an edge that's leaning over from use.
Sounds great, thank you for the info and tip. Can you recommend a particular rod or brand?
@@rowanadventures I always used Forschner-Victorinox because they were provided. Full sized 10" with grooved steel and no abrasives. The grooved steel will concentrate all force on that tiny spot on the edge making contact so light pressure equals pounds of force, be gentle. I prefer the grooved honing steel over the smooth. At first I thought the smooth would be better for a mirror edge phase I went through with my edges. It was just meh....sure it whittled hairs but I went right back to my toothy 100-300 ANSI/JIS oil/water stone edges and a butcher steel. Basically one stone, newspaper strop and a steel for maintenance during use....just take the steel in the field.
If you find yourself needing to use the steel every few mins then it's time to remove a bit of metal for a new edge. I typically got 2-4 weeks of 4-8 hour/day 5 days a week before I felt the a new edge was needed. Even then my set was the sharpest in the shop.
Hope this helps and sorry for the late reply.
Great video! Been sharpening for a few years now but have never attempted the skandi grind. Great detail!! You mentioned not being able to strop on your fabric belt. Give it a shot some time. I'll strop on anything that's abrasive from a 2x4, a raw branch, I've used my 1050D fabric on my back pack before in a pinch. And believe it or not it's all worked for me!
Thanks for watching, I'll give it a go!
Thanks for sharing. Mora makes good knives.
Awesome vid.. Just picked up a Mora!Thank you sir!
7:25 would the friction actually make enough heat to take the roll of metal off the knife?
It seems to. Sometimes I even pull the backwards a few times on each side (lightly) and it seems to do the trick.
For strop i use a piece of an old leather belt,and i smear some stropping compound on the coarse side of it, also i've punched two holes in the extremes and past two rope loops to hang the strop on a tree, and strop anywhere in the field
Great idea, thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
By doing that with a strop, you're turning every knife you strop into a convex grind. This is fine if you know you're doing it, but if you want a Scandi grind, this destroys on with only a couple of uses. Contrary to many CZcams videos, belt leather is just about the worst thing in the world to use as a knife strop.
I loved my Mora's, now to learn how to sharpen them....great video my friend. I've used the wet stone but haven't used a belt to finish it up. I'm practicing with an old Ust knife so I don't mess up my Mora doing this wrong lol
Thanks, let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
You betcha! I use my knives every day so they need some extra love & care :)
Nice video. I'll be getting a Mora soon as I've heard a lot of good things about them.
A great knife that you'll use for years. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Very good instructions.
very informative review,and you seem really chill i wish you were my grandpa :)
Good video, but you gotta cut some paper/hair/etc. at the end.
Great Idea!
Hey there. I think your stone would load up less if you kept it wetter. That way you wont have so much metal buildup on the stone and it will cut faster. Great job all the same
Yes, it was my third time sharpening using this particular stone. In the past, I had used an oil stone and so I was following the directions to the letter. I have since done exactly as you've suggested and it works great. I still soak the stone for 10 minutes but I wet it often. Thanks for watching!
great demonstration
Thanks for the video it was very helpful.
Daphne Berntsen your welcome, thanks for watching.
Great video! Thank you for the instructions. Another similar video the guy says to strop on a flat surface or risk putting a microbevel the scandi grind. I'm asking because I want your thoughts before I buy a cheap used belt at Goodwill and mount it to a 1" x 4" board.
Hi Heather! Thats a really good question. I have not had any issues with using it loose but if you're still not sure, go with the flat surface technique. If I understand the concept correctly, it supposed to give you more control and that can only be for the better. Please keep in touch and let me know how it works.
Thank you so much for this! 😊🙏🏼
Water stone, not whetstone. "Whet" stone has nothing to do with water. A "whetstone" means a stone you sharpen on. Basically, there are water stones, oilstones, and whetstones. Very high dollar Japanese water stones may be the best. Chinese water stones are usually not very good. Arkansas Oilstones are the best natural stone by far.
The strop and strop compound you use are critical.
It may not matter much with a Mora, but what many don't understand is that sharpness is secondary. If you know what you're doing, you can put a razor edge on a knife with sandpaper, with a rock, or with a concrete block. But you would never do this with a quality knife that you love because you'll rapidly ruin the geometry of the edge, and if you do this for very long, you'll either have to regrind the blade, or buy a new knife.
Or, as with many who really don't know a great deal about knives, you won't even notice something has gone wrong.. Your knife just won't cut as well as it once did, and it won't sharpen as easily.
I greatly prefer Arkansas Oilstones. Good ones aren't cheap, but they're a third the price, maybe less, of good Japanese Oilstones, they put an equal edge on a knife, and they're a lot less messy to use. With proper care, they also last many times as long.
Your stone needs a good cleaning, and you need to use a good slurry stone with it, or you won't have a stone much longer.
That is the most destructive way you can strop a knife. In the first place, you only hang a strop if you're stropping a convex edge. If your knife is not convex, stropping with a hanging strop turns it into one, and ruins the sharpening job you just did.
Second, belt leather is junk, regardless of what CZcams videos says. Third, unless you use stropping compound of the right brit, you're just wasting your time. Millions of peole seem to think bare leather works. It does not. Period. The reason strops have a bare leather side, including professional barber strops, is to CLEAN the tiny particles of steel and strop compound off the razor or knife once you're through stropping.
If you want to use bare leather, go ahead, but it takes more than four hours of stropping with leather to do the same job stropping for thirty seconds with green strop compound does.
Buy a real strop, and use real strop compound. You're damaging your knife each time you use a hanging strop, and each time you use a belt with no compound.
In fairness, I might not know this is I hadn't sharpened knives professionally for a while, but there are excellent, PROFESSIONAL knife sharpeners on CZcams, and I don't mean some goober whose friends think he's just wonderful, and he should darned sure charge people for doing it. It means people who earn a living sharpening knives and other edged toolls, who have been doing so for many years, and who didn't learn what they know from CZcams videos.
At any rate. Clean your stone, and buy a better Japanese stone, if you can, or go with quality Arkansas Oilstones. You don't need four thousand or higher grit, you just need good water stones, or good oilstone. With Oilstones, get a 600, an 800, a 1000, and a 2000, which really means a soft, a medium hard, a hard, and an extra hard, which means a black or a translucent, depending on where it was cut.
And whatever you do, but a real strop that uses real strop leather firmly glued down, and buy real stropping compound. Buy three grits, and learn how to use them.
Practice with cheap knifes. Even a Mora costs more than the knives you should learn with. Go to a Goodwill, go to any thrift store you can find. Buy five dollar kitchen knives at Walmart. Run the edge of these knives over a file to make them really, really dull, and then sharpen and strop them until they easily shave hair.
James Ritchie Care to point us to the GOOD knife sharpeners on youtube?
@@lolwut6635 Check out "Joe Calton" on CZcams. Just good old fashioned sharpening, no strops, no nonsense. Some people think you need to strop a knife after sharpening it on a stone but that's not true at all. If you perfect your technique, you get can a hair splitting sharp edge with just a coarse 150 grit stone, nothing else.
A bare leather strop is very useful to simply remove any burrs or foil from the edge.
Loading leather with a compound can't be undone really. Some might not want an ultra fine mirror edge that the compound produces.
I prefer a toothy 100-400 grit primary edge and it will still be toothy after I remove the burr with newspaper, leather or a honing steel.
Of course you can strop with the stone by using extremely light pressure to finish and simply drag the edge through soft wood to remove the foil.
Thank you sir I enjoyed that
Great vid. Thanks
Don't need to lap that stone? There's a lot of metal in yours. I usually lap mine, but my stones are cheaper.
Thanks for watching. I have since used water as I sharpen which creates a nice slurry that I can simply wash away. No more metal in my stone. What I was trying to do was demonstrate (and learn) as the instructions dictated. But, as with most skills, some times certain steps are assumed. In this case, the use of water while you sharpen. Thanks again!
The way I look at it is if it will dull your knife it will strop it.
Ok, Black Squirrel, I like this video - it was just what I need - so I subbed, Keep'em coming new friend!
Thank you! I have a review coming soon!
Only point I have is you need to clean the steel off your stone first or it leaves scratches on it apart from that great video God bless you and your family xpeacex
I'm really struggling with my Mora Robust. With the extra thick blade the bevel changes to a steeper angle towards the tip. I can not get it really well in one stroke down the full length of the bevel. I can do the main part well, but when the angle gradually changes it goes all weird.
Keep at it. Different blades often take on a different technique. I even have difficulty at times with the mora as well getting it just right.
Great video.
I have the same stone, have you noticed that the 1000 grit side is smoother than the 3000
I don't sharpen my Mora knives very often. I use a steel to restore the edge after use. When they need more than that I use wet/dry sandpaper on a glass smooth surface. I finish by stopping on a leather strop impregnated with polishing compound. I've never felt the need for expensive stones. But, as the man said, hike your own hike.
Nice video!!!
Thank you!
great video my friend.. i just happened upon your channel..
Thank you for watching.
roll up a belt and keep it in your pack like I do it won't take up a lot of space
Wayne S perfect timing, I just found an old leather belt at a tag sale for 10 cents! Thanks for watching!
can I do it till I need glasses
Hi great video! Really informative! I just wonder wich is the rough side of the stone the 3000 or the 1000? (Sorry for bad english)
Great question. The higher the grit number, the finer the stone. You start off on the most coarse grit side (1000) and then finish on the finer side (3000). Thanks for watching!
Thanks for answering!
Nice mag extension on that mora haha
Scandi = Scandinavian grind zero micro bevel
No need to soak a stone with such a high grit or it'll crack easier. You only need to wet the sharpening surface or dip it in water but no soaking. Lower grits are coarser and more porous so they soak up more water anyway but dry out faster also because of the pores.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. I was simply following the manufacturers recommendation.
I works for you, but it is so wrong.
Yes. If you read some of my comments, I have adjusted my technique and wet the stone frequently. Thanks for watching.
Another person sharpening a knife pushing the knife blade into the stone rather than away, risking digging the knife into the stone.
I won’t be doing what you did.
Same debate over in japan. Some do, some don't. Yet, in millions of years the sun still rises in the east and sets in the west. Do what you gotta do.
Mora Knives are throwaway junk. Buy better from sweden's eastern neighbour. Buy Puukko. From Finland.
Thanks for watching and thank you for your input.