You’re helping me so much to learn about the mechanics of cars rather than just blindly adding mods. Keep up the amazing work and I can’t wait to see your future!
people for some reason always ignore the air filter and spark plugs... it grinds my gears. like that's the most basic stuff. and people run their car to the junkyard or sell it because they don't know why their car is lacking power. agh. this video was helpful anyway
My 3.4L V6 GM engine is more powerful today than it was back in 04. I changed out to Mobil 1 soon as I got it home. Been using it ever since. Changed out OE air filter to K&N. Changed out restrictive exhaust to dual exhaust with 1/2" larger pipes. Changed out to new OE plug wires. Bosch Iridium spark plugs. Change out AT fluid at 60000. Maintain the car all the time myself so I know the work is done correctly with the right fluids and oil. Changed to all LED lights, including dash light. Added performance tires and wheels which lets the vehicle roll easier (reduces road friction). Stuff like that.
Exactly. Ported throttle body, bigger and better injectors, exhaust, header, and mechanical fan delete and I'm making more than stock on my Jeep with almost 300k on it
I just saw you on a GMC commercial and I wanted to comment and say congratulations but comments were disabled on that video so I came here, congratulations on all your progress! It's so cool to see how far you've made it.
Camshaft wear. I had an engine that was low on power. It ran just fine, quiet, smooth, started OK. It was the lowest power version fitted to this car so I thought it was normal. i decided to pep it up a bit with a performance cam, cylinder heads and headers. When i removed the cam it was so badly worn some valves must have been barely opening. Just replacing the cam with a new standard one would have given a substantial power increase. Once put back together the power increase with the performance parts was incredible!
Once bought a van for $50 because a guy was movingnout of our apartment building and it wouldn't run. Pulled the cover off the motor found and replaced the $2 fuel filter. Shazam $52 van.
Funny, unless you're a car enthusiast/mechanic than a fuel filter is usually one of the most neglected maintenance items. I don't think I've ever gone to a quick lube place and been tried to be upsold a fuel filter.
And you never will. Car Engineers today had the brilliant idea of putting the fuel filter inside the gas tank. To change a fuel filter in most modern cars you have to drop the fuel tank. A $1000 fix (due to labor cost), unless you do it yourself.
An important detail about "knock" (detonation).... Detonation comes from either of two sources; ignition or pre-ignition. All vehicles sold in the USA since 1996 must have OBDII, which effectively demands monitored knock sensors. If the detonation is the result of ignition, retarding the spark (the system kicks it back a *lot*) controls it. If you hear pinging, it means you have pre-ignition caused by hot spots. Ignition timing does not control pre-ignition.
I've got 600,000kms from a Land cruiser all original still running like new when I sold it. As well as getting hundreds of thousands of kilometers from other cars. My tips: 1) don't use the oil your manufacturer recommends, use synthetic oil according to your climate grade. For example, Toyota put 5w-30 in engines in Australia where it gets to over 40c and the engine starts burning the oil. I use 15w-50 2) Change your fuel filter annually and if you have a diesel with mechanical injection pumps, use a good quality fuel stabilising additive that conditions seals and rings while removing contaminants and algae. 3) Don't forget gearbox oil changes, and if you have a 4WD, transfer and diff oils too. Don't forget to grease all grease points in the drive line and suspension. 4) Flush out your radiator properly, I mean removing hoses, flushing the heater core, making sure no hoses crunch with rust when squeezed and use coolant that feels slippery and silky between your fingers.
@@AbduulG well he is kinda true, 5w30 is really thin (like water thin) at high temperatures (speed), so on the highway for example. 5w40 would give you a bit more oil pressure and less wear. Most manufacturers use thin oil (0w20 or 5w20) for achieving better mpg (less friction after cold start). But it doesn't mean it's better for durability! I know it from tractors too, some used to burn a lot of oil on 10w30 but with 15w40 there is not a single issue! 10000hours and still no problem, (no oil burning) with an average of 40mph that would be 400000 miles! :) (And that's a lot!)
I average 450,000 - 500,000 miles with my vehicles. Oil changes @ 3,000 miles - Wal-Mart SuperTech 10W-30 non synthetic oil - Bosch filters. At 100,000 mile mark - change manual trans & rear end gear oil - replace timing belt/components - check/replace spark plugs/vacuum hoses - flush cooling system - new shocks - check suspension - regrease front wheel bearings - and just look/see for anything needing attention. Got 482,000 miles with 1996 Rodeo 6 cyl - valve guide seals started leaking - engine smokes a little at start up but still runs fine - has 60 psi oil pressure. Plan to pull heads for repair. Just simple maintenance saves a lot of $$ - doing your own repairs even more. New car payments (and costly insurance) just flat out suck! I like having money in the bank. 😊
#1 is horrible advice. Heavier than recommended oil especially in a multi-valve or turbo engine is a no-no because you need the oil to penetrate through all those tiny spaces with ease. Also, the argument about Australia getting ‘too hot’ is BS. Ambient temperatures are always lower than engine operating temperatures…oils are designed to withstand engine temperature which is more than 100 degrees celcius unless Australia gets hotter than that, your ‘advice’ is bad. You should be thanking God for Toyota making an excellent engine that withstood your poor maintenance. LOL.
friend of our converted his truck to propane and we did a tear down of his engine and it looked bran new, another thing we hav noticed our engines once getting around 36k miles is when we noticed a increase in fuel mileage, people dont like to maintain or do mantaince until they have a problem this is key to follow up on follow thur with proper maintence and you will be fine, again my friend came down from canada we had same trucks but he gets almost 3x the fuel milage we get, the tech, is there and yes after he was here for 8 months the dealer said he had a recall on his fuel system, ha, he said he wasnt changing anything, and he didnt,
dirty fuel filter sometimes makes your fuel pump work harder so you might wanna check that too. besides this pressure on fuel pump may cause damage so replacing it might be a good idea
Some of these things can be easily fixed (e.g. replacing a single cheap part), some not. It would be great if you could have a video explaining what to do to diagnose and fix each of those possible issues.
A good example of that is the engine knock. It doesn't mean you just lose power it means your engine is going to catastrophically fail imminently and needs to be scrapped.
Although you are right about ring gap increasing over time it is the wear on cylinder crosshatching that adds the most noticeable blow-by which is why a hone is essential for an engine build; with a worn cylinder wall there would be very minimal compression
i had idle problems with my car, it was idling around 600rpm. after adjusting the spark plug gaps, at first start rpm went up around 2k and slowly fell down to perfect. its incredible how little things can cause big power losses.
yep, mechanic screwed it up while installing. i just wanted to point out that even adjusting the gaps made such a big difference. even some things that happen over time can be corrected with small adjustments that will made huge differences.
KOLT if your car is newer then 1995 it will tell you with a check engine light. Obd1 or anything newer then 1996 metallic rattling inside the cat or smell of exhaust changing with odometer increase can indicate a bad cat.
Quite a comprehensive description there, and suggests many inexpensive solutions to maintaining power, much of which is manufacturer's recommended maintenance intervals...
I like how you not only listed diagnostic information about each component, but also ways to keep each component working optimally, but I'm wondering how often you might need to make adjustments and/or replace each component due to just normal wear and tear. I know each car is probably different, and each component is also maybe different, but maybe like a basic guideline would be good... like the air filter usually should be changed with every other oil change, or maybe if you live in a particularly dusty part of the country more often than that... or Catalytic Converters usually last for ~150 thousand miles... (I dunno if thats true or not)...
Man the more i watch your videos the more I love my car for being a brilliant piece of engineering. I have a Mitsubishi Galant hatchback E33 92' has over 125,000miles on the odo, and since I did not ever need any sort of repairs apart from the 6 month oil change. Heck I didn't even need to change my spark plugs in over 2 years as they are in pristine condition (white) as the engine makes perfect combustion. No engine knocks and no oil burning (well maybe a just little bit as after 5000miles the oil gauge goes from high to low - i use mineral oil). I bought it 6 years ago for 1,000 Euro (yes I paid extra because it was in very good condition and was serviced at our garage so it was a customer's car). In 6 years my repair list was as following: 3 x Air filters, 1 set of spark plugs just because (they were in perfect condition), 4 new tyres, 1 antenna rod, 1 battery, 6 x fuel filters, 6 x oil filters, 1 water spray tank (took it from my other Galant an E32), 1 section of exhaust pipe, 1 AC gas conversion intake nozzle (new AC gas regulation needed it). In 6 years I spent next to nothing for its maintenance and its as comfortable as ever and spacious, not the most powerful car out there but it is adequate for daily commute. Range is about 230 miles/ 50litres city driving, 350miles/50litres mixed and once pushed it to almost 480 miles highway only, which is pretty solid for a 1992' car. The only problem the car has is some rattling on the driver's door striker on heavy left continuous cornering (right hand steering wheel). All electrics work perfectly, even the original radio cassette (apart from the up-seek button that got stuck). The only problem with the car is my wife, she hates it, because it looks old design
The segment about Fuel Pumps is "partly" inaccurate. (For fuel-injected systems.) - It's not so much a reduction of "volume" of fuel flow. What is important is that a "weak" pump might-be pushing the volume, BUT... the greater question is: Is it creating the "PRESSURE" (PSI) needed on the injection-system? That PSI is important to push the correct volume of fuel through the injectors,... and it also affects the "atomization" of the fuel spray.
Having a vehicle with the vintage AMC 242ci I6 engine, it very basic to remove the cylinder head and clean things up and reinstall the cylinder head. Every five years, on the anniversary of the purchase of my vehicle, I remove the single cylinder head, clean things up, check things out, replace valve springs, clean the top of cylinders, tighten loose rockers, check push rods, and put a new head gasket in. If needed, I also change the exhaust manifold gasket, timing cover gasket, and valve cover gasket also. Using this simple and primative method, my vehicle recently turned 401,000,000 miles and still running very strong. I bought my vehicle new in 1996. I have had it 23 years. I have two years, one month, twenty days left until my next disassembly and deep cleaning. I am sure I can get another 35 years of service out of my vintage beauty.
I can simplify this for you... Ten reasons why an engine can lose power over time. Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance... Wear.
@ It depends on the engine build quality and design tbh, wear and conditions and environment the engine is used. Not all engines are created equal, take for example the 4G63 N/A SOHC, a legendary engine when properly used and maintained is just shy of immortal. This engine is so good and reliable the factory made it into DOHC Turbo (300+BHP) without taxing the reliability. Modders took it into more extreme tuning with many breaking the 1000+ BHP mark. Well if that engine can produce that power and reliably up to 700BHP, at the factory 115BHP it simply can never die with proper maintenance.
A lot of engines gain power as they "loosen-up" with some miles on them, then eventually lose power as they wear out many tens of thousand of miles later. I had 2 Coyote 5.0 Mustangs which gained 3-4 mph of 1/4 mile trap speed once past about 20,000 miles. They were making more power than new.
Man, my 98 Expedition just turned 240,000 and has none of these problems (that make it noticeable), save probably a need to adjust the throttle cable and I did replace the fuel pump (it was wearing out, FIXED). All fluids/filters get changed so that's not an issue. The thing runs, rides and drives like brand spankin new. If anything ever impressed me about it, this just did!
Expeditions are honestly the worst vehicle ever I used to have a 2000 Expedition took care of that more than I take care of my kids and 250, 000 miles the engine locked on and It gave out
That old person will be the one fixing your car , most women know one thing how to start a car although they made it easy for them with push to Star button !
always check the basics....bought a 01 ram 1500 with a full plow setup for 2k...good shape..little rust and trans was rebuilt. ..seller said hard time starting when it was wet out and didnt have time to get into it....i took a chance and bought it. ..the plugs ,cap and rotor looked original and were worn down to nothing....gave her a tune up and she runs like new...75$ in parts 2 hours time.
i dont know why people thumb down your videos. your probably the best person at expaining such scenarios, better than most i have come across. chrisfix is another goody . keep up the good work 👍🙋♂️
for us old timers, valve seat recession, Camshaft lobe wear (reduced valve lift), increased clearances in big end bearings , weakened valve springs, coked up piston crowns. Also for the newer ones, clogged or worn injectors.
Spark plugs are a big one. When my parents bought a new car and gave me the old one, it consumed lots of fuel and it struggled expecially at the low RPM range. I decided to take a spark plug out and look what's the matter, I found that they were so burned out that the gap was almost twice as wide as it should be. Bought and installed new spark plugs, fells like a brand new car. I had someone tell me that you have to change the sparkplugs every 30k kilometers. That, I think, should also prevent additional tar collecting.
Solutions for the power enthusiast: 1.) K&n filter 2.) Lucas fuel injector cleaner 3.) Remove your catalytic converter 4.) Replace spark plugs often 5.) High flow fuel pump Furthermore would advice to upgrade your alternator, OEM alternators only give you the recommended amperage at high rpms.
I thought this was an incredible video- very direct and to the point with such a clear explanation as to the importance of all of these factors. Thank you for posting- I really enjoyed it!
Appreciate the video. Ideas for improving at least some of those problems? Changing spark plugs is obvious, but what about all of those other deposits inside the engine? Some way to dissolve or blow them out, with additives and/or driving style?
Running a full tank of high octane gas will help, Just fill up the entire tank from empty on the highest octane available and dont fill up on what you would normally use until your empty again.
@@ghosthawk3103 why is this? I thought higher octane only meant it would prevent pre-ignition. Are you saying it burns at a higher temperature thus ashing/dissolving the deposits away?
Fuel injected gas engines don't suffer from dirty air filters hardly at all. There is an EPA study on this showing the engines and fuel mileage are essentially unaffected for a ridiculous amount of time. The holding capacity for contamination is pretty good with modern cellulose and I recommend installing an air filter restriction gauge if you want to get not only the most out of your air fitler but also cleaner air into your engine. In a cellulose based air filter the highest percentage of contamination actually passes through the fitler during the very early part of its life as the larger pores are waiting to clog. So efficiency actually increases during the later part of the filters life, which means older air filter can actually equal reduced engine wear since airborne silica will enter the engine and cause abrasive wear.
Well it is a very specific reason for it, you filter is intended for the engines maximum capacity so as long as you drive it at less then 20% a filter that can only let through 20% of it's rating is still ok. But the moment you try and get more power there are problems all over the place.
Ehm nope. Knock is a term for unwanted ignition of the air-fuel mixture before the piston hits top dead center. This happens if the temperatures in the cylinders are so high that the mixture ignites itself OR if the sparkplugs misfire.
Never heard of calling that knock before. In Europe that's called engine failure ;P. Btw you guys have your octane rated according to the AKI system right? That is short for Anti Knock Index, so I didn't assume it was a localization thing.
A mechanic that would build engines for Dale Ernheart said in a forum about Marvel Mystery Oil . ALWAYS use 4 oz's per 10 gallons with a new motor ....it creates a dry lubricant on the walls. I have used the product for 6 years as my uncle was a mechanic that used it growing up and in the arctic instead of a blow torch. He added it to the crank and gas tank fuel and -20-40 was no longer a problem. Raises compression in tests about 10 to 15 %.
Another nice video on cars. The section on piston rings and valve wear could have mentioned heat from turbos and high rpm can cause floppy pistons and premature wear of metal and rubber seals, So, keeping heat and rpm low will definitely help engine parts and the longevity of your car. I rebuilt engines for years and this was the golden rule. Great Content. Mario
So, basicly if you replace and rebuild all the parts you just mentioned, there is a possibility for the engine to run as new? A buddy of mine had an engine rebuild. He went from 10w40 to 5w50 over winter and 10w50 over summer (he does big milage). When he went to remap the ecu after the whole rebuild, the power at the crankshaft was showing ~10 hp less when the car was new (wow, you can read the brouchure). How would you explain that?
another common cause for ignition timing issues, as well as valve timing issues in older engines, (both of which cause power loss) is a worn or stretched timing chain.
You talk about changing the air filter, but do not mention the fuel filter. Apart from that it is an excellent video. there are so many people out there that have no idea about what goes on under the hood, and end up getting ripped off when they take their vehicle in for maintenance/repairs.
If you haven't yet, please do a vid on the differences between motorcycle and car engines! Oh, and the crankless Rajan engine would be pretty interesting too! Not sure if you've heard of it as it's not a popular design and its inception was around the early 20th century. It seems pretty efficient though.
This autoTempest website is actually awesome its just direct comparisons to all my normal search places, thanks for the recommendation I plan to use this in the future a bunch
I mean that's based on your connection and your device really. Everything runs fine for me, but that's because I'm using a good PC, have a wired connection and verizon fios.
There is also handbrake not fully releasing and making the rear wheels bind which can be cured by injecting lubricant down the gaitor and down the cable. Also don't forget to lubricate the pivoting arm on the back of the brake caliper that is connected to the handbrake mechanism. Brake pistons seized or sticking causes brakes to bind,get them reconditioned or replaced. Out of track can scrub your speed off get them tracked and new tyres if tyres are scrubbed badly on either edges. HT leads can be fractured & corroded at the ends and affect speed replace them if necessary. I could go on forever lol.
Automotive performance boils down to one word... MAINTENANCE. Every part and component has a service life and is prone to wearing out. Neglect the preventive maintenance, the check engine light, and the loss of performance your vehicle won't work for long.
I'll never run catless... it stinks when you come to a stop, and everyone behind you has to smell your exhaust. It's like being behind a diesel, but not as bad.
*Engineering Explained* It may not be legal, but some states (like NJ, where I am for example) are no longer doing emissions testing on normal vehicles 1995 or older as they do not have ODBII ports. So in a way, the car folk see this as making straight-pipes on older performance vehicles somewhat OK now, or at least "less-illegal" as the state is not proactively trying to enforce the legality of it. Those older cars ('95 and older) are now exempt from state inspections.
Great video, but you forgot about EGR systems cloging up, especially if you only drive you car short distances. Ive also heard stories about the swirl flaps breaking down and ruining the entire engine
I acknowledge that all cars are different, but can I get an idea of about how many miles you can go before you need to start worrying about some of these issues?? I have a 2011 WRX with 71,000 miles by the way.
Nicolas Losito not all owners manual mention what needs to be maintain or replace. For example, my corolla doesn't mention fuel injectors, fuel pump, piston rings, valve deposits, catalytic converter and muffler.
High milage oil is usually specified for engines with 75,000 miles or more, so I would guess these problems could start to show up at this point. I think it depends a lot on the engine and how it's maintained, though.
Best things you can do is run top tier fuel (toptiergas.com) and use Mobil 1 high mileage oil. The oil has special conditioners to keep seals from leaking. Change filters and all your fluids frequently. I do all mine every year. Coolant, brake fluid flush, transmission fluid, power steering fluid flush, and I always do my oil changes every 4000 with full synthetic oil. You can use seafoam in your engines oil about 500 miles before you change your oil and that will keep all the carbon from building up.
I have a interesting for you and hope that is enough for a video. I had a Ford Escort MK7 with the 1.6L 66kW (90PS) Engine. And after some time with it I noticed the following “issue”. After some time on the Autobahn and high loads of 100% throttle, the car had more power or rather more torque. I noticed that when I arrived in the next city drove around there to my destination. It felt way more alive and nippy. After the car cooled down, it was the same as before. Slow and boring all over again. I don’t know if it was normal and has to do with it but that the car consumed 10-11l fuel every 100km. It can’t be on the service part of the car because I maintained it good. Every 10k I changed the oil, all filters and spark plugs. After some time I changed the hole exhaust manifold plus the catalytic converter. Everything was brand new as it gets. Every time the car cooled down from such a drive it became “slow” again. Do you have any ideas what that could have been ?
Hello Jason, quick question. How do you know you're injectors are getting clogged and how reliable are those cleaners you out in the fuel to open them. Or is it better just to change them after a certain period? The service manuels of my cars don't have info on this.
No easy way to tell at home without a tool. With a fuel pressure gauge and an injector pulse tool you can do a pressure drop test to see if they flow consistently. If you have a scan tool that shows fuel trim you could tell if they are ok if fuel trim is still within spec.
Does the same rule apply to diesel engines, (perhaps worse)? I don't know, cars with petrol engines here depreciate like crazy, quite the opposite from the rest of the world I guess? And I always wonder if that power could be returned with some overhaul on the engine?
If you struggle with power loss in a diesel, I highly suggest you replace the fuel pump, as diesels run with higher fuel pressure and as a result, you'll have more wear on the fuel system over time.
Hmmm, some of my mechanic friends did told me that the Fuel system is the first thing to go wrong on a diesel engine. (not to mention that the engine that I have, Isuzu's 4JX,1 is quite problematic.) Well I guess I'll have to save up for a Subaru.
as my father thought me deposit is a high chance if you drive the car "carefully" personally i got a big very noticeable increase after i hooked the caravan behind my volvo 740 2,3L petrol and went on a weekend trip, high load over time means the engine basically cleans the deposit of it's own, also if deposit is stuck on the valves this will work fantastic. the exhaust system will also be allot hotter and will remove deposit of it's own.
I'm a Sunday driver kinda guy I don't like speeding until necessary I noticed that my car was not getting up a steep hill and kept shutting down so this video helped me
Just like any battery, they will begin to lose power. It's just like using your phone or laptop over a long time, eventually you notice it doesn't last as long or perform as well.
It can yeah. Copper can oxidise and deteriorate over time, arcing and carbon buildup in areas where connections might be breaking down, and bearing failure. Bearings are usually sealed units and eventually these will fail. Not to mention wearing out of electronics such as the inverters required for power and regen. All these can get affected by the rattling about of daily life. All the potholes, speed bumps, parking up kerbs, cobbled streets, cattle grids etc. It night last a little longer though. I've seen water pumps for large treatment sites that have been running faultlessly since the early 60's. Only being removed to be scaled up for higher population demand. But they're not being rattled about every day.
Probably the battery will lose some capacity. I don't know about automotive or industrial electric motor but my don't know how old fan can took 10 minutes to get into self sustaining speed in speed 2 when it's not cooperating and 1 (lowest) it won't even run :v Can't even access the bolts to clean the motor or oil the bearing, the design really sucks *cough* like modern cars *cough*
While I was learning, I couldn't help but notice a ROGUE NATION bumper sticker in the background. I just wanted to Thank you for displaying that! I only say thank you, because I live 15 minutes away from their headquarters in Newport Oregon. Cheers!
10 reasons, 5 mins, 2reasons per min, 1reason every 30secs, excellent video...quick and to the point. 👍🏻
Very long comment, directly to the point. After that repeating the same comment in two different ways 🌚
Quick mafs
yea this why i like his videos it dont have 10 minute ads
@@essai_ dead meme
@@nepzski pull up irl I’ll bop u kid
You’re helping me so much to learn about the mechanics of cars rather than just blindly adding mods. Keep up the amazing work and I can’t wait to see your future!
Happy to hear it, thank you for watching! :)
people for some reason always ignore the air filter and spark plugs... it grinds my gears. like that's the most basic stuff. and people run their car to the junkyard or sell it because they don't know why their car is lacking power. agh. this video was helpful anyway
hi I like your method can it get you online so we can chat , I like to be a engineer
Awesome video!!!
ChrisFix hey guys!
Haha Chris youre here too? :D
Love your channel!
ChrisFix here!
HEY GUYS CHRISFIX HERE
I read that in your voice :))
My 3.4L V6 GM engine is more powerful today than it was back in 04. I changed out to Mobil 1 soon as I got it home. Been using it ever since. Changed out OE air filter to K&N. Changed out restrictive exhaust to dual exhaust with 1/2" larger pipes. Changed out to new OE plug wires. Bosch Iridium spark plugs. Change out AT fluid at 60000. Maintain the car all the time myself so I know the work is done correctly with the right fluids and oil. Changed to all LED lights, including dash light. Added performance tires and wheels which lets the vehicle roll easier (reduces road friction). Stuff like that.
Performance tires have increased rolling resistance lol
I just keep modding it... doesn't loose power over time, just increases the potential breakdowns
Hudson Stronck 👍🏽
Um no
lol
Exactly. Ported throttle body, bigger and better injectors, exhaust, header, and mechanical fan delete and I'm making more than stock on my Jeep with almost 300k on it
You lose power. A nut becomes loose.
This has been your most short and to the point video I have yet to see, I like it.
2016 Camry tune up
Too short TOO SHORT
He's not padding his video length unnesserily hoping to increase advertising revenue. Great CZcamsr, subscribed.
I just saw you on a GMC commercial and I wanted to comment and say congratulations but comments were disabled on that video so I came here, congratulations on all your progress! It's so cool to see how far you've made it.
Camshaft wear. I had an engine that was low on power. It ran just fine, quiet, smooth, started OK. It was the lowest power version fitted to this car so I thought it was normal. i decided to pep it up a bit with a performance cam, cylinder heads and headers. When i removed the cam it was so badly worn some valves must have been barely opening. Just replacing the cam with a new standard one would have given a substantial power increase. Once put back together the power increase with the performance parts was incredible!
How about a fuel filter? I would think a clogged fuel filter would restrict fuel, especially under heavy loads.
of course,there are way more reasons,but he just said the main reasons ;)
Once bought a van for $50 because a guy was movingnout of our apartment building and it wouldn't run. Pulled the cover off the motor found and replaced the $2 fuel filter. Shazam $52 van.
My car became way more alive after I changed the fuel filter. Surprising how much of a difference that made.
Funny, unless you're a car enthusiast/mechanic than a fuel filter is usually one of the most neglected maintenance items. I don't think I've ever gone to a quick lube place and been tried to be upsold a fuel filter.
And you never will. Car Engineers today had the brilliant idea of putting the fuel filter inside the gas tank. To change a fuel filter in most modern cars you have to drop the fuel tank. A $1000 fix (due to labor cost), unless you do it yourself.
An important detail about "knock" (detonation).... Detonation comes from either of two sources; ignition or pre-ignition. All vehicles sold in the USA since 1996 must have OBDII, which effectively demands monitored knock sensors. If the detonation is the result of ignition, retarding the spark (the system kicks it back a *lot*) controls it. If you hear pinging, it means you have pre-ignition caused by hot spots. Ignition timing does not control pre-ignition.
I've got 600,000kms from a Land cruiser all original still running like new when I sold it. As well as getting hundreds of thousands of kilometers from other cars.
My tips:
1) don't use the oil your manufacturer recommends, use synthetic oil according to your climate grade. For example, Toyota put 5w-30 in engines in Australia where it gets to over 40c and the engine starts burning the oil. I use 15w-50
2) Change your fuel filter annually and if you have a diesel with mechanical injection pumps, use a good quality fuel stabilising additive that conditions seals and rings while removing contaminants and algae.
3) Don't forget gearbox oil changes, and if you have a 4WD, transfer and diff oils too. Don't forget to grease all grease points in the drive line and suspension.
4) Flush out your radiator properly, I mean removing hoses, flushing the heater core, making sure no hoses crunch with rust when squeezed and use coolant that feels slippery and silky between your fingers.
LOL. Using 5w-50 and the recommended from factory is 5w-30. I hope NO ONE takes you or your horrible advice serioulsy.
@@AbduulG well he is kinda true, 5w30 is really thin (like water thin) at high temperatures (speed), so on the highway for example. 5w40 would give you a bit more oil pressure and less wear. Most manufacturers use thin oil (0w20 or 5w20) for achieving better mpg (less friction after cold start). But it doesn't mean it's better for durability! I know it from tractors too, some used to burn a lot of oil on 10w30 but with 15w40 there is not a single issue! 10000hours and still no problem, (no oil burning) with an average of 40mph that would be 400000 miles! :) (And that's a lot!)
I average 450,000 - 500,000 miles with my vehicles. Oil changes @ 3,000 miles - Wal-Mart SuperTech 10W-30 non synthetic oil - Bosch filters. At 100,000 mile mark - change manual trans & rear end gear oil - replace timing belt/components - check/replace spark plugs/vacuum hoses - flush cooling system - new shocks - check suspension - regrease front wheel bearings - and just look/see for anything needing attention.
Got 482,000 miles with 1996 Rodeo 6 cyl - valve guide seals started leaking - engine smokes a little at start up but still runs fine - has 60 psi oil pressure. Plan to pull heads for repair.
Just simple maintenance saves a lot of $$ - doing your own repairs even more. New car payments (and costly insurance) just flat out suck! I like having money in the bank. 😊
#1 is horrible advice. Heavier than recommended oil especially in a multi-valve or turbo engine is a no-no because you need the oil to penetrate through all those tiny spaces with ease. Also, the argument about Australia getting ‘too hot’ is BS. Ambient temperatures are always lower than engine operating temperatures…oils are designed to withstand engine temperature which is more than 100 degrees celcius unless Australia gets hotter than that, your ‘advice’ is bad. You should be thanking God for Toyota making an excellent engine that withstood your poor maintenance. LOL.
friend of our converted his truck to propane and we did a tear down of his engine and it looked bran new, another thing we hav noticed our engines once getting around 36k miles is when we noticed a increase in fuel mileage, people dont like to maintain or do mantaince until they have a problem this is key to follow up on follow thur with proper maintence and you will be fine, again my friend came down from canada we had same trucks but he gets almost 3x the fuel milage we get, the tech, is there and yes after he was here for 8 months the dealer said he had a recall on his fuel system, ha, he said he wasnt changing anything, and he didnt,
dirty fuel filter sometimes makes your fuel pump work harder so you might wanna check that too.
besides this pressure on fuel pump may cause damage so replacing it might be a good idea
Rust = weight reduction
Lol
@La Dragon Noir Funny thing is, the formation of rust actually increases the weight. After the rust wears off, that's when the weight decreases.
until the car frame breaks then its not so funny
Spray salt water all over
Ouais non mdr
Some of these things can be easily fixed (e.g. replacing a single cheap part), some not. It would be great if you could have a video explaining what to do to diagnose and fix each of those possible issues.
A good example of that is the engine knock. It doesn't mean you just lose power it means your engine is going to catastrophically fail imminently and needs to be scrapped.
@@srspower 1997 engine is hard jackpot
Jaguar 1997xjR8
Although you are right about ring gap increasing over time it is the wear on cylinder crosshatching that adds the most noticeable blow-by which is why a hone is essential for an engine build; with a worn cylinder wall there would be very minimal compression
i had idle problems with my car, it was idling around 600rpm. after adjusting the spark plug gaps, at first start rpm went up around 2k and slowly fell down to perfect. its incredible how little things can cause big power losses.
That's not something that happens over time. You failed to adjust the gap when you installed them.
yep, mechanic screwed it up while installing. i just wanted to point out that even adjusting the gaps made such a big difference. even some things that happen over time can be corrected with small adjustments that will made huge differences.
I had similar idling issue, but mechanic said it was the fuel pump. How do I know if my Cat conv is bad?
KOLT if your car is newer then 1995 it will tell you with a check engine light. Obd1 or anything newer then 1996 metallic rattling inside the cat or smell of exhaust changing with odometer increase can indicate a bad cat.
Quite a comprehensive description there, and suggests many inexpensive solutions to maintaining power, much of which is manufacturer's recommended maintenance intervals...
I like how you not only listed diagnostic information about each component, but also ways to keep each component working optimally, but I'm wondering how often you might need to make adjustments and/or replace each component due to just normal wear and tear. I know each car is probably different, and each component is also maybe different, but maybe like a basic guideline would be good... like the air filter usually should be changed with every other oil change, or maybe if you live in a particularly dusty part of the country more often than that... or Catalytic Converters usually last for ~150 thousand miles... (I dunno if thats true or not)...
it's on the frigging manual on when to replace these parts.
Usually it comes with a maintenance manual or online resources can be more make/model specific.
Man the more i watch your videos the more I love my car for being a brilliant piece of engineering. I have a Mitsubishi Galant hatchback E33 92' has over 125,000miles on the odo, and since I did not ever need any sort of repairs apart from the 6 month oil change. Heck I didn't even need to change my spark plugs in over 2 years as they are in pristine condition (white) as the engine makes perfect combustion. No engine knocks and no oil burning (well maybe a just little bit as after 5000miles the oil gauge goes from high to low - i use mineral oil). I bought it 6 years ago for 1,000 Euro (yes I paid extra because it was in very good condition and was serviced at our garage so it was a customer's car). In 6 years my repair list was as following: 3 x Air filters, 1 set of spark plugs just because (they were in perfect condition), 4 new tyres, 1 antenna rod, 1 battery, 6 x fuel filters, 6 x oil filters, 1 water spray tank (took it from my other Galant an E32), 1 section of exhaust pipe, 1 AC gas conversion intake nozzle (new AC gas regulation needed it). In 6 years I spent next to nothing for its maintenance and its as comfortable as ever and spacious, not the most powerful car out there but it is adequate for daily commute. Range is about 230 miles/ 50litres city driving, 350miles/50litres mixed and once pushed it to almost 480 miles highway only, which is pretty solid for a 1992' car. The only problem the car has is some rattling on the driver's door striker on heavy left continuous cornering (right hand steering wheel). All electrics work perfectly, even the original radio cassette (apart from the up-seek button that got stuck). The only problem with the car is my wife, she hates it, because it looks old design
The segment about Fuel Pumps is "partly" inaccurate. (For fuel-injected systems.)
- It's not so much a reduction of "volume" of fuel flow. What is important is that a "weak" pump might-be pushing the volume, BUT... the greater question is: Is it creating the "PRESSURE" (PSI) needed on the injection-system? That PSI is important to push the correct volume of fuel through the injectors,... and it also affects the "atomization" of the fuel spray.
Having a vehicle with the vintage AMC 242ci I6 engine, it very basic to remove the cylinder head and clean things up and reinstall the cylinder head. Every five years, on the anniversary of the purchase of my vehicle, I remove the single cylinder head, clean things up, check things out, replace valve springs, clean the top of cylinders, tighten loose rockers, check push rods, and put a new head gasket in. If needed, I also change the exhaust manifold gasket, timing cover gasket, and valve cover gasket also. Using this simple and primative method, my vehicle recently turned 401,000,000 miles and still running very strong. I bought my vehicle new in 1996. I have had it 23 years. I have two years, one month, twenty days left until my next disassembly and deep cleaning. I am sure I can get another 35 years of service out of my vintage beauty.
How about them fuel injectors.... VR6t!
I can simplify this for you... Ten reasons why an engine can lose power over time.
Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance...Poor maintenance... Wear.
Not necessarily. Some engines esp. Nissan from certain years are built poorly
About 90% of power loss is due to neglect it will lose a bit no matter what.
@@gravemind6536 Neglect and abuse.
Don't forget poor maintenance
@ It depends on the engine build quality and design tbh, wear and conditions and environment the engine is used. Not all engines are created equal, take for example the 4G63 N/A SOHC, a legendary engine when properly used and maintained is just shy of immortal. This engine is so good and reliable the factory made it into DOHC Turbo (300+BHP) without taxing the reliability. Modders took it into more extreme tuning with many breaking the 1000+ BHP mark. Well if that engine can produce that power and reliably up to 700BHP, at the factory 115BHP it simply can never die with proper maintenance.
Wow. 10 reasons in 5 minutes. Normally it's 5 things in 20 minutes everywhere else. Love those videos
I didn’t even see the video all the way through and I’m happy to subscribe to this Chanel’s content. Loving the detailed explanation🤯
A lot of engines gain power as they "loosen-up" with some miles on them, then eventually lose power as they wear out many tens of thousand of miles later. I had 2 Coyote 5.0 Mustangs which gained 3-4 mph of 1/4 mile trap speed once past about 20,000 miles. They were making more power than new.
My car lost a lot of power when I started dating my 250 pound girlfriend.
I guess your the one being tune up and change oill ehhhhh, hahhaa
Lol
Pretty funny hahaha
Lose compression
Thats a cow
Number 11: Aging Go Fast Stripes. As Go Fast Stripes age, the car will lose 10 to 15 percent power.
Also hire-cars are much faster.
Man, my 98 Expedition just turned 240,000 and has none of these problems (that make it noticeable), save probably a need to adjust the throttle cable and I did replace the fuel pump (it was wearing out, FIXED). All fluids/filters get changed so that's not an issue. The thing runs, rides and drives like brand spankin new. If anything ever impressed me about it, this just did!
Expeditions are honestly the worst vehicle ever I used to have a 2000 Expedition took care of that more than I take care of my kids and 250, 000 miles the engine locked on and It gave out
Just like an old person, you need to replace or fix the broken parts.
MBW reading that just made my day a lot worse
MBW the deposits on her cylinder walls are starting to become an issue, so it delays the spark timing.
That old person will be the one fixing your car , most women know one thing how to start a car although they made it easy for them with push to Star button !
Yes, you don't want things sagging. So be sure to replace.
well done Einstein.
always check the basics....bought a 01 ram 1500 with a full plow setup for 2k...good shape..little rust and trans was rebuilt. ..seller said hard time starting when it was wet out and didnt have time to get into it....i took a chance and bought it. ..the plugs ,cap and rotor looked original and were worn down to nothing....gave her a tune up and she runs like new...75$ in parts 2 hours time.
this is by far the best car channel on youtube. thanks for everything!
We heard it from the engine expert. Absolutely Amazing Informative Video. Thanks so Much.
Awesome video I wish I cud explain things as well as you do
Best teacher ever !!!!
Keep it up !
Great video. Lot of enthusiasts focus too much on new parts and forget about good ol' maintenance.
You forgot Fuel Filter!:) Same issues as air filter, except with fuel.
Factory Five 818 Build well I guess he included this out because you are supposed to replace the fuel filter every couple of years...
Don't forget your spark filter.
You're supposed to replace the air filter every now and then but yet it was mentioned here :)
thanks, i almost forgot that . adding it to my list
also, tires can affect power especially if they're oversized tires
i dont know why people thumb down your videos. your probably the best person at expaining such scenarios, better than most i have come across. chrisfix is another goody . keep up the good work 👍🙋♂️
for us old timers, valve seat recession, Camshaft lobe wear (reduced valve lift), increased clearances in big end bearings , weakened valve springs, coked up piston crowns.
Also for the newer ones, clogged or worn injectors.
Indeed. I am with u especially on t worn cam lobes that's t worst. something this young fella failed to descrive
Spark plugs are a big one. When my parents bought a new car and gave me the old one, it consumed lots of fuel and it struggled expecially at the low RPM range. I decided to take a spark plug out and look what's the matter, I found that they were so burned out that the gap was almost twice as wide as it should be. Bought and installed new spark plugs, fells like a brand new car. I had someone tell me that you have to change the sparkplugs every 30k kilometers. That, I think, should also prevent additional tar collecting.
Spark plugs can go for longer than that.
2:45 Jason silently judging from behind 🤣🤣🤣
This video explained in one word
Wear
Combustion
entropy
Pollution
You are really Takahashi Ryosuke
Well u summed that whole vid in a couple words what a genius 😁
i haven't seen completely the video but i already gave my like because i know it's going to be awesome.
chelar estelar Yes. I click like on his videos before the as is over too. :)
This is the explanation I give when I ejaculate prematurely.
When doing fuel system upgrades its always wise to add an additional fuel filter, replace the fuel lines, and clean or replace the fuel rail.
*I Am Happy That I Understood This Video!!* 😂
*Miracle*
MatZak 2004
It’s ok buddy, I’m slow too
What about carburetor engines.. it's loosing power on hills
Solutions for the power enthusiast:
1.) K&n filter
2.) Lucas fuel injector cleaner
3.) Remove your catalytic converter
4.) Replace spark plugs often
5.) High flow fuel pump
Furthermore would advice to upgrade your alternator, OEM alternators only give you the recommended amperage at high rpms.
Yet another great informative video, gotta love Jason's work
Those bad plugs look great compared to the ones I pulled from my 328i a few months ago! They were so bad!
I thought this was an incredible video- very direct and to the point with such a clear explanation as to the importance of all of these factors. Thank you for posting- I really enjoyed it!
one of my favorate video on youtube.
good go dear you are only person
that making amazing video
first ever thanks on youtube.
Appreciate the video.
Ideas for improving at least some of those problems? Changing spark plugs is obvious, but what about all of those other deposits inside the engine? Some way to dissolve or blow them out, with additives and/or driving style?
Running a full tank of high octane gas will help, Just fill up the entire tank from empty on the highest octane available and dont fill up on what you would normally use until your empty again.
@@ghosthawk3103 why is this? I thought higher octane only meant it would prevent pre-ignition. Are you saying it burns at a higher temperature thus ashing/dissolving the deposits away?
Fuel injected gas engines don't suffer from dirty air filters hardly at all. There is an EPA study on this showing the engines and fuel mileage are essentially unaffected for a ridiculous amount of time. The holding capacity for contamination is pretty good with modern cellulose and I recommend installing an air filter restriction gauge if you want to get not only the most out of your air fitler but also cleaner air into your engine. In a cellulose based air filter the highest percentage of contamination actually passes through the fitler during the very early part of its life as the larger pores are waiting to clog. So efficiency actually increases during the later part of the filters life, which means older air filter can actually equal reduced engine wear since airborne silica will enter the engine and cause abrasive wear.
Well it is a very specific reason for it, you filter is intended for the engines maximum capacity so as long as you drive it at less then 20% a filter that can only let through 20% of it's rating is still ok.
But the moment you try and get more power there are problems all over the place.
So do engine's ECU have the ability to detect and compensate for knock? That'd be a good video: discussing everything the ECU does
Even if the ECU supports knock detection, you still need a knocksensor to make it work.
Ehm nope. Knock is a term for unwanted ignition of the air-fuel mixture before the piston hits top dead center. This happens if the temperatures in the cylinders are so high that the mixture ignites itself OR if the sparkplugs misfire.
Rod knock? Where the rods smash against the block?
Never heard of calling that knock before. In Europe that's called engine failure ;P. Btw you guys have your octane rated according to the AKI system right? That is short for Anti Knock Index, so I didn't assume it was a localization thing.
@quasarcreator We call that chainsawing your block in half ;P
A mechanic that would build engines for Dale Ernheart said in a forum about Marvel Mystery Oil .
ALWAYS use 4 oz's per 10 gallons with a new motor ....it creates a dry lubricant on the walls.
I have used the product for 6 years as my uncle was a mechanic that used it growing up and in the arctic instead of a blow torch.
He added it to the crank and gas tank fuel and -20-40 was no longer a problem.
Raises compression in tests about 10 to 15 %.
Thank you , your one of the Best Teachers , I give you an A+ ...
Another nice video on cars. The section on piston rings and valve wear could have mentioned heat from turbos and high rpm
can cause floppy pistons and premature wear of metal and rubber seals, So, keeping heat and rpm low will definitely help engine parts
and the longevity of your car. I rebuilt engines for years and this was the golden rule.
Great Content.
Mario
So, basicly if you replace and rebuild all the parts you just mentioned, there is a possibility for the engine to run as new?
A buddy of mine had an engine rebuild. He went from 10w40 to 5w50 over winter and 10w50 over summer (he does big milage).
When he went to remap the ecu after the whole rebuild, the power at the crankshaft was showing ~10 hp less when the car was new (wow, you can read the brouchure).
How would you explain that?
another common cause for ignition timing issues, as well as valve timing issues in older engines, (both of which cause power loss) is a worn or stretched timing chain.
VR6 block spotted at the background
Glad you got a sponsor. Checked it out and I like how it aggregates results.
I installed a drop-in AEM air filter on my winter beater. Putting down so much power it broke the dyno
You talk about changing the air filter, but do not mention the fuel filter. Apart from that it is an excellent video. there are so many people out there that have no idea about what goes on under the hood, and end up getting ripped off when they take their vehicle in for maintenance/repairs.
A good way to keep your catalytic converters from clogging is to get an aftermarket exhaust without them. I did it and it's amazing
Now I feel like leaving work, buying all the necessary parts, and adhere to Jason’s suggestions.
Great info, thanks and keep up the good work
There is a lot more things that make a vehicle lose power and these are just major hits of why they do. Very good video
#8 especially with direct injection engines... sad panda 🐼
Sarah -n- Tuned sad petrol pandas indeed :(
Sarah -n- Tuned That's it, girl!
WRX owner? Yeah, I'm not looking forward to this eventual problem. :/
Pyro Vulpes Forester XT
Nice, SP
If you haven't yet, please do a vid on the differences between motorcycle and car engines! Oh, and the crankless Rajan engine would be pretty interesting too! Not sure if you've heard of it as it's not a popular design and its inception was around the early 20th century. It seems pretty efficient though.
Another good use for AutoTempest.com is to look at other cars comparable to yours to get a price idea for a car you are selling.
This autoTempest website is actually awesome its just direct comparisons to all my normal search places, thanks for the recommendation I plan to use this in the future a bunch
awesome to see 2160p
11696Ron I tried 1440p and it took 3 mins for 13 seconds of the video to play
I mean that's based on your connection and your device really. Everything runs fine for me, but that's because I'm using a good PC, have a wired connection and verizon fios.
clean and simple, شكرا جزيلا
Awesome video... I do have a follow-up question. Could indexing the spark plugs have a positive impact during this process?
There is also handbrake not fully releasing and making the rear wheels bind which can be cured by injecting lubricant down the gaitor and down the cable.
Also don't forget to lubricate the pivoting arm on the back of the brake caliper that is connected to the handbrake mechanism.
Brake pistons seized or sticking causes brakes to bind,get them reconditioned or replaced.
Out of track can scrub your speed off get them tracked and new tyres if tyres are scrubbed badly on either edges.
HT leads can be fractured & corroded at the ends and affect speed replace them if necessary.
I could go on forever lol.
How do you feel about extended oil change intervals using something like Amsoil and a better filter?
Best explanation of possible issues explained nicely in a timely manner. 💗👌
What about used camshafts? I have 20 yo car and it's camshaft is lower obout 2mm than a new one, what makes 15-20% loss of hight.
yes and wear on bearings , etc
Welp learned I possibly need a fuel pump replaced on my Cabrio haha thanks for the info!
U now using Mac?? Also missing build videos of ur s2k
That could be more general example footage for the site, sent to people sponsored by 'em, a lot of websites use a Mac for that for some reason.
Very educationally rich! Great presentation
This video is literaly perfect
Thank you thank you!
Short and straight to the point, good video
Just admiring your craft beer sticker wall, man. Well done! Great video too!
Automotive performance boils down to one word...
MAINTENANCE.
Every part and component has a service life and is prone to wearing out. Neglect the preventive maintenance, the check engine light, and the loss of performance your vehicle won't work for long.
Luckily my exhaust system no longer has a catalytic converter. 😂😂😂
It's not legal anywhere +nunchaks700. It's okay to do the right thing, your neighbors appreciate it. :)
It's legal for my 63 ford ;)
Buy diesel trucks...not volvo.
I'll never run catless... it stinks when you come to a stop, and everyone behind you has to smell your exhaust. It's like being behind a diesel, but not as bad.
*Engineering Explained* It may not be legal, but some states (like NJ, where I am for example) are no longer doing emissions testing on normal vehicles 1995 or older as they do not have ODBII ports. So in a way, the car folk see this as making straight-pipes on older performance vehicles somewhat OK now, or at least "less-illegal" as the state is not proactively trying to enforce the legality of it. Those older cars ('95 and older) are now exempt from state inspections.
Great video, but you forgot about EGR systems cloging up, especially if you only drive you car short distances. Ive also heard stories about the swirl flaps breaking down and ruining the entire engine
I was just getting ready to type this. If it gets to bad the car will actually sputter and hesitant.
I acknowledge that all cars are different, but can I get an idea of about how many miles you can go before you need to start worrying about some of these issues?? I have a 2011 WRX with 71,000 miles by the way.
Nicolas Losito not all owners manual mention what needs to be maintain or replace. For example, my corolla doesn't mention fuel injectors, fuel pump, piston rings, valve deposits, catalytic converter and muffler.
It doesn't say. I have gone onto forums to figure it out, but most are filled with teenage boys who don't know what they are talking about.
High milage oil is usually specified for engines with 75,000 miles or more, so I would guess these problems could start to show up at this point. I think it depends a lot on the engine and how it's maintained, though.
Best things you can do is run top tier fuel (toptiergas.com) and use Mobil 1 high mileage oil. The oil has special conditioners to keep seals from leaking. Change filters and all your fluids frequently. I do all mine every year. Coolant, brake fluid flush, transmission fluid, power steering fluid flush, and I always do my oil changes every 4000 with full synthetic oil. You can use seafoam in your engines oil about 500 miles before you change your oil and that will keep all the carbon from building up.
I have a interesting for you and hope that is enough for a video.
I had a Ford Escort MK7 with the 1.6L 66kW (90PS) Engine.
And after some time with it I noticed the following “issue”.
After some time on the Autobahn and high loads of 100% throttle, the car had more power or rather more torque.
I noticed that when I arrived in the next city drove around there to my destination. It felt way more alive and nippy.
After the car cooled down, it was the same as before. Slow and boring all over again.
I don’t know if it was normal and has to do with it but that the car consumed 10-11l fuel every 100km.
It can’t be on the service part of the car because I maintained it good. Every 10k I changed the oil, all filters and spark plugs. After some time I changed the hole exhaust manifold plus the catalytic converter. Everything was brand new as it gets.
Every time the car cooled down from such a drive it became “slow” again.
Do you have any ideas what that could have been ?
Hello Jason, quick question. How do you know you're injectors are getting clogged and how reliable are those cleaners you out in the fuel to open them. Or is it better just to change them after a certain period? The service manuels of my cars don't have info on this.
Injector cleaners work, but if you already have a fully clogged injector, the cleaners wont work anymore.
No easy way to tell at home without a tool. With a fuel pressure gauge and an injector pulse tool you can do a pressure drop test to see if they flow consistently. If you have a scan tool that shows fuel trim you could tell if they are ok if fuel trim is still within spec.
If you use high quality fuel you don't need to worry
Nicolas Losito what high quality fuel? Like shell/bp?
CZcams recommendations strikes again...
Does the same rule apply to diesel engines, (perhaps worse)? I don't know, cars with petrol engines here depreciate like crazy, quite the opposite from the rest of the world I guess?
And I always wonder if that power could be returned with some overhaul on the engine?
Yes, everything except spark plugs, really. Diesels have different exhaust systems as well.
If you struggle with power loss in a diesel, I highly suggest you replace the fuel pump, as diesels run with higher fuel pressure and as a result, you'll have more wear on the fuel system over time.
Engineering Explained can you make another video specific to diesel engines?
Hmmm, some of my mechanic friends did told me that the Fuel system is the first thing to go wrong on a diesel engine. (not to mention that the engine that I have, Isuzu's 4JX,1 is quite problematic.) Well I guess I'll have to save up for a Subaru.
as my father thought me deposit is a high chance if you drive the car "carefully" personally i got a big very noticeable increase after i hooked the caravan behind my volvo 740 2,3L petrol and went on a weekend trip, high load over time means the engine basically cleans the deposit of it's own, also if deposit is stuck on the valves this will work fantastic. the exhaust system will also be allot hotter and will remove deposit of it's own.
I'm a Sunday driver kinda guy I don't like speeding until necessary I noticed that my car was not getting up a steep hill and kept shutting down so this video helped me
Does an electric motor lose power as they get older?
This.
Just like any battery, they will begin to lose power. It's just like using your phone or laptop over a long time, eventually you notice it doesn't last as long or perform as well.
Thanks !
It can yeah. Copper can oxidise and deteriorate over time, arcing and carbon buildup in areas where connections might be breaking down, and bearing failure. Bearings are usually sealed units and eventually these will fail. Not to mention wearing out of electronics such as the inverters required for power and regen.
All these can get affected by the rattling about of daily life. All the potholes, speed bumps, parking up kerbs, cobbled streets, cattle grids etc.
It night last a little longer though.
I've seen water pumps for large treatment sites that have been running faultlessly since the early 60's. Only being removed to be scaled up for higher population demand.
But they're not being rattled about every day.
Probably the battery will lose some capacity. I don't know about automotive or industrial electric motor but my don't know how old fan can took 10 minutes to get into self sustaining speed in speed 2 when it's not cooperating and 1 (lowest) it won't even run :v Can't even access the bolts to clean the motor or oil the bearing, the design really sucks *cough* like modern cars *cough*
While I was learning, I couldn't help but notice a ROGUE NATION bumper sticker in the background. I just wanted to Thank you for displaying that! I only say thank you, because I live 15 minutes away from their headquarters in Newport Oregon. Cheers!
Thanks for this video, i'm learning so much about engines :)
How to change transmission oil for discovery td5 automatic gear box
This guy is on another level of smart and talented
Awesome video Jason! Keep them coming!
Can you work on. my S600? You really elucidate car mechanics! I learned a lot!
Yeeeaaahhh we need more POWEEEEEEEEERRRRR... hahaha
ElectricBike moar*
ElectricBike I literally just watched racka rackas video right before this one and I saw you in the comments
I read it the way Jeremy Clarkson would say it 😎
Where are the uploads? We miss you!
MOOOOH POWAAA
This has explained so many of my car's issues! If it lives long enough I know what I'm doing to improve its clean running and power issues.