You also should have considered the export time and CPU frequency. Apple has these chips set to push themselves to 100C before they thermal throttle. Repasting may help things like idle temps and spikes, but I don't expect it would prevent the CPU from hitting max temp eventually when doing something prolonged at max CPU like exporting. Here, the thermal paste might have allowed for higher average clock speed while exporting, resulting in a quicker export, and thus better performance. You also may have used cheap thermal paste.
Maybe put a 1,5 mm thermal pad on the left side of the cpu - the one that isn't normally covered by the heatsink (I believe it is the GPU?) - so it at least makes contact with the heat pipe. Wonder how that would affect it? I have the same model Macbook Pro, so I might try it... Also notice, that the SSD on these are made specially for Apple, which are PCIe x 2, so you cannot put in an M.2 SSD just like that. The proprietary Apple SSDs are also very expensive. However, you can buy an adapter, so you can install an M.2 SSD which are cheaper. Adapter name: PCI-E x4 M.2 NGFF to SSD adapter card for macbook A1465 A1466 A1398 A1502
Try using kryonaut or mastergel pro V2 or Arctic mx5 , they have better thermal conductivity than these cheap ones . Also try to change the fan curve ( lower below 90 and almost max fan speed above 95 ) , idk if you can change fan curves in mac ( never used one ) . But still these could help . Keep up the good content :)
This MacBook Pro has never been disassembled before this. So this is the stock battery with around 212 charge cycles(mostly used it on AC power). Still don't know why it got swollen.
So technically how is cheap cooling paste different than the branded ones(i.e cooling maste, arctic etc)? And I love your videos I think they are amazing .
Basically, the difference between these thermal paste are the materials that are used in them. Some contain metal particles in them i.e metal based which have more conductivity and thus resulting in lower temps , some are ceramic based (light grey in colour) and some are silicon based (these are the ones that come stock with the processor or fan). And now there are also copper based that provide very good thermal conductivity and doesn't conduct current which makes them better than all the others. So the choice is yours to pick😄.
At 9:00 you do not apply thermal paste on the 2nd die (on the left of the one where you applied thermal paste). This is wrong. You should have as the radiator also covers it. No thermal paste on this die = bad thermal dissipation from it
I appreciate your work however beware that you put all the dusts and residues inside your computer, next time you better try to clean the parts anywhere else, except on the computer itself.
If you'll check heatsink design it have not any contact with GPU chip on CPU, it have 1 or mb 2 mm space between heatsink and GPU only very slim thermal contact pad will help there a bit.
I know this is a year old, but I'm putting the comment here so people who google this video can find it. The die on the left is not the GPU. it's an I/O die and it does not need paste. In fact when you paste it will only make it absorb the heat from the heat pipe because the heat from the CPU will transfer into it through the paste. The GPU on this CPU is in the same die as the rest of the CPU functions, the long one.
Thank you for this video and keep up the great work!
Keep up the good work brother..amazing video ✌🏻
Thanks a ton!
Very good knowledge on fixing the heating problem
Thank you sir! I'm glad you liked it!
You also should have considered the export time and CPU frequency. Apple has these chips set to push themselves to 100C before they thermal throttle. Repasting may help things like idle temps and spikes, but I don't expect it would prevent the CPU from hitting max temp eventually when doing something prolonged at max CPU like exporting. Here, the thermal paste might have allowed for higher average clock speed while exporting, resulting in a quicker export, and thus better performance. You also may have used cheap thermal paste.
Thanks for the info 🙏
Hello! what type of screwdriver do i need for the top left corner screw? I see that you changing it after having removed the 4 screws. thanks
Informative! Kee it up bro👍🏻
Thank you so much 😀
where can i find new screws for heatsink for same model
Very good video! I changed mine with arctic paste and it still gets hot about 90 till 100, it's just a bad design from Apple
Maybe put a 1,5 mm thermal pad on the left side of the cpu - the one that isn't normally covered by the heatsink (I believe it is the GPU?) - so it at least makes contact with the heat pipe. Wonder how that would affect it? I have the same model Macbook Pro, so I might try it...
Also notice, that the SSD on these are made specially for Apple, which are PCIe x 2, so you cannot put in an M.2 SSD just like that. The proprietary Apple SSDs are also very expensive.
However, you can buy an adapter, so you can install an M.2 SSD which are cheaper.
Adapter name: PCI-E x4 M.2 NGFF to SSD adapter card for macbook A1465 A1466 A1398 A1502
Did you apply a thermal pad on the GPU like you mentioned? Any difference?
@@Z3DZ3R0 Not yet. Haven't ordered thermal pads.
Try using kryonaut or mastergel pro V2 or Arctic mx5 , they have better thermal conductivity than these cheap ones . Also try to change the fan curve ( lower below 90 and almost max fan speed above 95 ) , idk if you can change fan curves in mac ( never used one ) . But still these could help . Keep up the good content :)
Thanks. I'll consider it.
What types of screwdrivers do I need to open the case and remove the fan?
You will be needing a Pentalobe P5 screwdriver for the case and a Torx T5 for removing the heatsink and fan.
hmm why you put thermal paste on I/O die?
Good one 👍🏻
Thanks ✌️
It this battery the stock battery that came with you macbook pro or you replaced it?
This MacBook Pro has never been disassembled before this. So this is the stock battery with around 212 charge cycles(mostly used it on AC power). Still don't know why it got swollen.
So technically how is cheap cooling paste different than the branded ones(i.e cooling maste, arctic etc)? And I love your videos I think they are amazing .
Basically, the difference between these thermal paste are the materials that are used in them. Some contain metal particles in them i.e metal based which have more conductivity and thus resulting in lower temps , some are ceramic based (light grey in colour) and some are silicon based (these are the ones that come stock with the processor or fan).
And now there are also copper based that provide very good thermal conductivity and doesn't conduct current which makes them better than all the others. So the choice is yours to pick😄.
Good work, my son. Keep it up.
Appreciated
At 9:00 you do not apply thermal paste on the 2nd die (on the left of the one where you applied thermal paste). This is wrong. You should have as the radiator also covers it. No thermal paste on this die = bad thermal dissipation from it
I appreciate your work however beware that you put all the dusts and residues inside your computer, next time you better try to clean the parts anywhere else, except on the computer itself.
Noted. Thanks 😇
Not quite impressed with the results because you did not apply thermal paste on the GPU, maybe?
If you'll check heatsink design it have not any contact with GPU chip on CPU, it have 1 or mb 2 mm space between heatsink and GPU only very slim thermal contact pad will help there a bit.
I know this is a year old, but I'm putting the comment here so people who google this video can find it. The die on the left is not the GPU. it's an I/O die and it does not need paste. In fact when you paste it will only make it absorb the heat from the heat pipe because the heat from the CPU will transfer into it through the paste. The GPU on this CPU is in the same die as the rest of the CPU functions, the long one.