Thorens TD150 Mk2. Part 2. Below Deck service and set up: suspension, foam, nuts, cable dressing.
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Thorens TD150 Mk2. Part 2. Below Deck service and set up: suspension, springs, foam, nuts, cable dressing.
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Very helpful most appreciated for this video
Hello from Germany!
I just purchased a td 150, coming from dual 510 and this being my first Thorens, your channel helped me a lot, thank you very much! I had to replace the cartridge cables and installed an at 95e; now this turntable sings again!its just great. What a wonderfull little machine😊
Hello from Scotland! Glad you found the tutorial helpful. I love helping people to bring their old gear back to life.
The from is important is dampening the spring from vibrations and I would add double the amount need to be a bit thicker. The from has got nothing to do with instability. Ideally you want to drill a 2 inch hole below the main spindle of the bottom covered hardboard and put some draft excluder around the edge, it doesn't matter if it's hardboard or anything stiffer hardboard is better actually than stiffer materials but it has to be open really no bottom at all is the best solution. When you have a closed box it causes resonance in Lower frequencies below 100 hertz similar principal when having the dust cover on when playing. Use some packs of jelly as feet underneath, Best isolator
Some interesting hacks there, thanks for sharing. Totally agree about the importance of reducing resonance. Sorry, but I beg to differ regarding the foam in the springs. If you put more foam in them, their function as isolators will be impaired and vibration will be able to pass through from the chassis to the sub-chassis. Without foam, the springs provide the maximum isolation for the floating sub-chassis. However, as I said in the video, the shelf/support needs to be very stable and vibration free. A good support could be anything from a well supported 12mm plywood shelf to a slab of concrete, so long as it can't move. GB
@@gbaudio1212 no it's a complete opposite with the foam think about it! You're not preventing isolation you're adding to isolation by using the foam, springs have a resonance to them and you need to damp that resonance the springs resonance, the foam dampens it. I actually put a thicker piece of foam at the top 15mm thick pushing at the outside of the spring, I don't think the foam is thick enough at the bottom, I replaced that as well pushing against the springs so it leaves an imprint in the foam, foam is the best isolator you can get, its mainly air about 97% is air but of course it doesn't have the structure ability to hold up the sub chassis and platter what you need it to dampen it, springs metal resonate you've got rubber but that's not enough I don't believe you need the foam what is better than the rubber on its own. I can't see your logic why you think foam is going to prevent isolation? makes no sense. I've just done a test with a fork try it get a fork and a washing up sponge when you put the handle of the fork to your ear you can hear the ringing in the fork when tapping the fork prongs, stick the fork through the sponge so there's about an inch sticking out and then tap it or flick it with your nail and you're here it deadens the ring eliminates it, its the same principle for a spring, metal is a great transfer of noise. That's why I always thought the foam wasn't adequate enough, and I made it wider and added a piece on the wider part of the spring as well on both ends and just left the spring open in the middle. Try you got nothing to lose you can always take it out again but I'm sure you won't. I think there's another benefit as well it makes the whole table a bit stiffer I've noticed on Linn upgrade kits the springs are thicker metal than original and I think that is the same case on the Thorens. You could try a thin piece of Cork on either end of the spring as well something that's about three or four millimeter thick, along with the rubber that will give you even more isolation I don't see people doing that but the principle should be good. Is actually what they use in the main bearing at the bottom it's cork a piece of plastic and a steel shim well on the 160 anyway probably the same with the 150..
I have a td125 mark11 tirn table given to me as a gift. I want set it up to my rx v630 yamaha receiver. Will the set-up run w/ out a a pre Amp? What will the 11:14 rca cables connect from turn table to receiver?
My Thorens td 150 MKII (just like the one in the video) which I have started to refurbish does not have a separate ground cable. Do you have any advise on how to add one?
As you will see in our video, the earth/ground cable attaches to the steel sub-chassis with a self-tapping screw. The cartridge output wires each have their own ground so the function of the separate wire is to make sure that the metal parts of the sub-chassis are at the same electrical potential as the signal earth to avoid picking up hum. Two things to note: take care that the cable has a loop between the fixing point on the sub-chassis and the P-clip or saddle clip on the chassis. This will enable the deck to float properly, as shown in the video. Also take care that the screw is not so long that it touches the chassis and fouls the suspension. If there is not a fixing hole already, choose a location which is clear of any obstructions. Good luck.
Did the foam do any harm ?would removing it only make the deck less compliant and more open to potential , unforeseen problems an owner may have in the future and placement of the deck ? Metal against metal etc increasing potential vibration without the small bits of foam . Is it perhaps making it a less forgiving turntable ? you have reasons but I wonder , were those Thorens Engineers just sticking bits on because they had some bits of foam lying around or did they have a purpose , I suspect those infamously precise Swiss and German engineers didn’t often use nonfunctional materials or casually insert foam in springs, I’m sure they’d have considered their design carefully , a design that is one of a line of classic turntables .. I often see people removing bits , adding others and always thinking they’ve ‘ improved’ the original design when perhaps they’ve actually made a sideways move or possibly downgraded the tables effectiveness . A little like removing a pesky rubber grommet or washer .
As I explain in the video, the foam is designed to dampen the suspension a little, which may be a help if the deck is on a wobbly or unstable surface. I explain that it is my preference to remove the foam for decks which have a solid support because an unfettered spring will give maximum isolation from chassis-borne vibrations. You are of course free to retain the foam if you wish, but bearing in mind that many other spring suspended decks do not have any foam at all, I think it is entirely reasonable to consider it optional, not essential.
I was wondering if you know where a bloke could find a 3 piece hinge set for a TD 125 MK II.
Sorry, we don't know any place that sells these parts. Ebay might be your best bet if someone is breaking a TD125 for parts. Good luck.
@@gbaudio1212 thank you Ebay is dead too so if you hear anything please keep in touch thank you