So I’m guessing you’re an electronic engineer? You’re a G dude. I mean, I watch these repairs and I’m just so envious of the knowledge you have. But I’m sure you studies a lot and put in lots of work. Keep it up my man. Never gets old.
I've been looking for a channel like this for a long time - so glad I found it! Thank you for the detailed explanations and for doing this - much appreciated!
One way to dampen the nerves is by using current limiting(or sharing) dim bulbs and an auto transformer to power up slowly. The bulbs will start to glow if there is a short present. That has saved me a few headaches with amplifiers. And the bias....."That's fine". * immediately puts screwdriver back in pot... "Walk away".. BWHAHA! The techs that don't keep trying to adjust it are the same ones that don't clean flux. Nice work and glad to see you're back.
Sometimes an instant current pop from a small breaker is better. A current through a bulb to light it does show an issue but is also drawing that current though the circuit to do it.
Looking forward to almost 40 minutes of repair again! It's been a minute since we saw you! I'm interested in a 3D printer build surface update. I'm still using PEI on both of my machines - non-removable. Glad to have you back!
Thanks so much for telling your entire thought process. I learn way more when people explain in detail. The probe here and there and swap parts vids don't really help anyone. Thanks for your efforts! Subbed
I have a plain Sansui 5500 that does not have sound coming out of the left channel I found that transistor tr 803 (2sc627) has a HFE of 49 and on the data sheet it says that it should be MIN 360 could that be the problem? or should I be looking somewhere else?Looks like your G-5500 has more features than mine.Very good video, very informative.Cheers
Hello !! It is a wonderful video. I have the same issue, and your video gives me a lesson as how I can set mine right. Thank you so Much !! - Uday Kalburgi, Bangalore INDIA
A lightbulb limiter gives some more peace of mind for that first power-on. It's simply a bulb in series with the line power, with bypass switch. It sure beats a 5A fuse anyway. The nice thing about bulbs is their nonlinear resistance, and that you can see the power draw.
Hello dear. I congratulate you for your clean work, I wish there were specialized technicians here in Chile like you. A query, the B688 and D 718 transistors that you used in the repair, are they the faithful replacements of the original 2SC 2578 and 2 SA 1103 of the Sansui G 5500? I will appreciate your answer. Regards
Do you have a link to the schematics or information for the bulb replacement for the signal/tuning backlight? The bulb removed has no markings. Thanks!
Nice work! Question: You matched the replacement transistors in the burnt channel with the ones that were in there. How did you know that the previous technician didn’t install the wrong ones? Also if unsure, can they be matched to the operable channels transistors?
Hello, how are you? I need the output transistors and the Sansuo G5700 icitators. Would you have it for sale or would you know of any contacts? Here in Brazil I can't find them. I also need those two plates that come out of the price plate, and go to the dicipator, where the output transistors go. If you can please help me.
Hi Kevin!. I have a vintage Sansui G-871DB receiver, 160 watts per channel and I would like to have it gone through for restoration, replacing any bad caps that affect sound quality. Do you do such work ?. There doesn't seem to be anyone around here that offers restoration services on vintage receivers. I also noticed that I can hear AM/FM reception over the line inputs when you turn the volume control way up. Is this normal ? Very informative videos...
Very nice work! Like the lens cleaning cloth idea. You might like a Hakko FR-301 desoldering tool...awesome tool. Where did you procure the Chemplex 1381 heat sink compound?
That sensor for temperature compensation is composed of 3 or 4 diodes in series (STV-3H or 4H) (Edit: this seems to be the STV-3H, but a 4H also exists). Its leads are very brittle and may easily break close to the body, which is a nuisance, since the original part is unobtainable. Though, it may be replaced with 3 or 4 separate small signal diodes packed and soldered together in series. Question: do you power up the amp with a current limiting device, like a dim bulb?
I would strongly suggest to use silicon thermal pads instead of the mica and compound. A lot less work ,better thermal results ,and no dried up compound in the future too :) Also, now days there is solder with no clean-up raisin,doesn't look nice,but no need to clean and no corrosion or conductivity problems .
Another thing,That black thermal sensor (varistor) could use thermal grease as well. It is there to protect against thermal runaway.That is why compound on it is very important ! In fact that could be the cause of the fault in the first place :)
@@ohboy4784 There was no thermal compound on the original thermisters when I took it apart so I didn't add it. The things are so brittle in its age I didn't want the grease to corrode or decay the unobtainable part over time.
@@ohboy4784 I wanted to keep it's state as era authentic as possible. Changing things like that can impact resale to potential buyers in the future that don't understand.
@@The_Active_Region Well I see your point about keeping the original state. BTW, It isn't a varistor, rather it is device which is "3 diodes in a single pack". The diodes are part of the bias circuit and it is very important to have them at the same temperature has the final power transistors. I would add thermal compound to them , shouldn't be a problem at all.
I have a plain Sansui 5500 that I am having a problem with, it does not have sound coming out of the left channel can someone tell me where I should be looking for the problem?Thank you
First time here and just subscribed. I have a G 5000 that I am looking to restore. Any suggestions or are there any step by step guides? Thank You Kev31779
Experience and the fact that the original part numbers from the service manual cross to the the same NTE numbers. These are actually better rated parts than the original part uses in the manual.
I'm not sure what your request was. I get tons of email and messages a day and don't have time to answer them all. If it is about asking me to repair something, I am not taking any side work on at the moment due to Covid.
And i know this for a fact because tree resin turns into amber in a few million years...and the oldest amber is around 300-400 million years and it's still not conductive....:)))
Greetings from the Philippines. Watching to learn so I can personally fix my qrx9001. I'm not a technician but willing to learn from you guys. Thanks.
So I’m guessing you’re an electronic engineer? You’re a G dude. I mean, I watch these repairs and I’m just so envious of the knowledge you have. But I’m sure you studies a lot and put in lots of work. Keep it up my man. Never gets old.
Beautiful Sansui and awesome restoration. Thank you for sharing and looking forward to your other post!!
I've been looking for a channel like this for a long time - so glad I found it!
Thank you for the detailed explanations and for doing this - much appreciated!
One way to dampen the nerves is by using current limiting(or sharing) dim bulbs and an auto transformer to power up slowly. The bulbs will start to glow if there is a short present. That has saved me a few headaches with amplifiers. And the bias....."That's fine". * immediately puts screwdriver back in pot... "Walk away".. BWHAHA! The techs that don't keep trying to adjust it are the same ones that don't clean flux. Nice work and glad to see you're back.
Sometimes an instant current pop from a small breaker is better. A current through a bulb to light it does show an issue but is also drawing that current though the circuit to do it.
Excellent video and thank you! It was great to watch you work on it!
Looking forward to almost 40 minutes of repair again! It's been a minute since we saw you! I'm interested in a 3D printer build surface update. I'm still using PEI on both of my machines - non-removable. Glad to have you back!
Welcome back always the same great videos looking forward to the next one :)
Thanks so much for telling your entire thought process. I learn way more when people explain in detail. The probe here and there and swap parts vids don't really help anyone. Thanks for your efforts! Subbed
Thanks. I try to explain to the best of my knowledge to help others understand what I am looking for. .
Great repair!
That is a really nice Sansui
Great to see you back on the vintage receiver repair beat, Kevin! Arthur
Thank's Arthur.
I have a plain Sansui 5500 that does not have sound coming out of the left channel I found that transistor tr 803 (2sc627) has a HFE of 49 and on the data sheet it says that it should be MIN 360 could that be the problem? or should I be looking somewhere else?Looks like your G-5500 has more features than mine.Very good video, very informative.Cheers
Great work on that PCB turned out really clean!
I have read on some of the electronics forums that people don't recommend using NTE components they say they are poor quality is that true?
Hello !! It is a wonderful video. I have the same issue, and your video gives me a lesson as how I can set mine right. Thank you so Much !! - Uday Kalburgi, Bangalore INDIA
Отличная работа!👍
Nice work my friend always a pleasure to see you work...
Thanks
A lightbulb limiter gives some more peace of mind for that first power-on. It's simply a bulb in series with the line power, with bypass switch. It sure beats a 5A fuse anyway. The nice thing about bulbs is their nonlinear resistance, and that you can see the power draw.
I know that trick. Doesn't always protect further damage.
the best part ''shut up alexa'' i laugh so hard
Yippeee, Kev (Flux) 31779 is back with another repair vid. Great to see you back at it Kev.
Hello dear. I congratulate you for your clean work, I wish there were specialized technicians here in Chile like you. A query, the B688 and D 718 transistors that you used in the repair, are they the faithful replacements of the original 2SC 2578 and 2 SA 1103 of the Sansui G 5500? I will appreciate your answer. Regards
Thought you gave up on these repair vids. Love watching these.
Thanks. I didn't give up, I just don't have all the time and funds I would need to produce this content constantly.
Do you have a link to the schematics or information for the bulb replacement for the signal/tuning backlight?
The bulb removed has no markings.
Thanks!
Nice work! Question: You matched the replacement transistors in the burnt channel with the ones that were in there. How did you know that the previous technician didn’t install the wrong ones? Also if unsure, can they be matched to the operable channels transistors?
по красоте струячим
Hello, how are you? I need the output transistors and the Sansuo G5700 icitators. Would you have it for sale or would you know of any contacts? Here in Brazil I can't find them. I also need those two plates that come out of the price plate, and go to the dicipator, where the output transistors go. If you can please help me.
Hi Kevin!. I have a vintage Sansui G-871DB receiver, 160 watts per channel and I would like to have it gone through for restoration, replacing any bad caps that affect sound quality. Do you do such work ?. There doesn't seem to be anyone around here that offers restoration services on vintage receivers. I also noticed that I can hear AM/FM reception over the line inputs when you turn the volume control way up. Is this normal ? Very informative videos...
Very nice work! Like the lens cleaning cloth idea. You might like a Hakko FR-301 desoldering tool...awesome tool. Where did you procure the Chemplex 1381 heat sink compound?
Mcmaster Carr I believe.
I do these repairs on a daily basis . little shop in my bsmnt. Repair like that easy $110
good day sir how to upgrade the capacitor for replacement
That sensor for temperature compensation is composed of 3 or 4 diodes in series (STV-3H or 4H) (Edit: this seems to be the STV-3H, but a 4H also exists). Its leads are very brittle and may easily break close to the body, which is a nuisance, since the original part is unobtainable. Though, it may be replaced with 3 or 4 separate small signal diodes packed and soldered together in series. Question: do you power up the amp with a current limiting device, like a dim bulb?
You can but during this test I used a 5 amp equipment breaker. I don't always trust the bulb rig not to slowly smolder something up.
I would strongly suggest to use silicon thermal pads instead of the mica and compound.
A lot less work ,better thermal results ,and no dried up compound in the future too :)
Also, now days there is solder with no clean-up raisin,doesn't look nice,but no need to clean and no corrosion or conductivity problems .
Another thing,That black thermal sensor (varistor) could use thermal grease as well.
It is there to protect against thermal runaway.That is why compound on it is very important !
In fact that could be the cause of the fault in the first place :)
@@ohboy4784 There was no thermal compound on the original thermisters when I took it apart so I didn't add it. The things are so brittle in its age I didn't want the grease to corrode or decay the unobtainable part over time.
@@ohboy4784 I wanted to keep it's state as era authentic as possible. Changing things like that can impact resale to potential buyers in the future that don't understand.
@@The_Active_Region Well I see your point about keeping the original state.
BTW,
It isn't a varistor, rather it is device which is "3 diodes in a single pack".
The diodes are part of the bias circuit and it is very important to have them at the same temperature has the final power transistors.
I would add thermal compound to them , shouldn't be a problem at all.
I have read that using flux is not recommended due to it being conductive, is that true?
I have a plain Sansui 5500 that I am having a problem with, it does not have sound coming out of the left channel can someone tell me where I should be looking for the problem?Thank you
First time here and just subscribed. I have a G 5000 that I am looking to restore. Any suggestions or are there any step by step guides? Thank You Kev31779
How do you know the shorted transistors were the correct components to begin with?
Experience and the fact that the original part numbers from the service manual cross to the the same NTE numbers. These are actually better rated parts than the original part uses in the manual.
Nice job, sir! I see you have been adding to your bench. Any chance we are going to get a bench tour?
Soon. It is time for one isn't it.
That's right you tell that busybody Alexa the shut up that damn machine it's more aggravation than it's worth
Alexa, clean up this flux for me.
This is my second request to u ,,,but I didn't get any single reply from your side
I'm not sure what your request was. I get tons of email and messages a day and don't have time to answer them all. If it is about asking me to repair something, I am not taking any side work on at the moment due to Covid.
That is natural Fir tree resin, IT WILL NEVER EVER EVER IN 400 MILLION YEARS BECOME CONDUCTIVE.
And i know this for a fact because tree resin turns into amber in a few million years...and the oldest amber is around 300-400 million years and it's still not conductive....:)))
Your not thinking fourth dimensionally. The old sticky flux gathers hair, dust, dirt and debris over time which does become conductive.
Great repair!