How To: Convert Your Old Stock Tach/Speedometer Gauges to Digital! /GS850#14/
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- čas přidán 2. 03. 2018
- I'm back and better than ever! And So is my bike now, with a brand new sleek modern digital instrument cluster setup! In this video I convert my bikes gauges from analog to digital. If you have any questions on how to do this, please don't hesitate to ask them in the comments section!
The speedometer I installed in the video:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mp...
MY EBAY PAGE: www.ebay.com/usr/masomcaliste-0
Shoutout to Persephone for the sweet music!
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Use 2 magnets. Mount first magnet, mark tire directly under it, mark floor, push bike forward one revolution, mark floor again, measure back exactly halfway between the 2 floor marks, push bike back to the center mark, mount 2nd magnet across from the first one that is now opposite of the center mark. Go to speedometer menu, input the measurement from 1st floor mark to 2nd floor mark, divide that number by the amount of magnets which is 2, and you should have the right mph reading on the gauge without having to do a bunch of math wheel measurements and riding around the neighborhood to dial it in. Ride safe!
"Ill give you my autograph" lol
Love watching your videos man. You do great work and I think people forget that you just recently graduated high school. You have a bright future!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Great job!
I died when it said "AIDS" 😂😂
i spat out my coffee
"Oh shit did he just put AIDS?!"
+1
Same 😂
Yer, AIDS is so retro. There is now Novel-corona virus, COVID-19
That Gurkha Kukri knife though👌 great vid new speedometer looks mint
this is the greatest instruction on these speedometer installation on the tube, gonna do mine too. thanks a lot!
Legend Bro. Thanks a lot!
I’m installing one speedometer exactly the same on a Kawasaki versys 650 (due to a accident and front all broken) and I’m struggling to find out about the speed and rpm. It’s been helpful bud, thanks again!
I got an 81 gs650g that I wanna change out the cluster on and this was the first video I looked at and got lucky that you have a very similar bike to mine! Thank you so much for the video now I can go into my bike with some confidence!
i have no idea if you still read these comments but thanks for this video. It inspired me 2 years ago to convert a gs500 2004 to digital. sadly someone hit me and wrecked it. weeks ago 1 got a new gs500 1995 which has a physical tacho cable. thanks to revisiting this video i found that i could hook the tacho wire up to the green/white cable and its just perfect now. it might be 3 years later but your video still has an impact.
I have a 2002 GS500E, would you mind helping me with what you used, tools and all that?
I'm about to try an convert my 06 Gs500. Are there any issues or problems you ran into?
My main concerns are proper mount location for the speed sensor as well as the best way to mount the actual unit to the bike.
@@Tugoose nope not really mounting it was a mather of making a plate with the correct holes that mounts to the original holes with rubbers. The speed sensor mounted on the end of the mechanical speedo cable with a 3d printed part and it is hidden away behind the headlight.
@@TheRedstonelabz1 as in mounted to the Speedo cable near the wheel or the actual mechanism? I assume the cable would move a bit causing discrepancies at speed no?
@@Tugoose the original cable is still in place. I 3d printed a little cover for the open end and added a rotor mounted on a bearing that spins when the cable spins. On that rotor is 2 magnets that get detected by my speed sensor. Then you just have to set the correct value in the display and it is super accurate.
that looked fairly easy. thanks for the guide. the way you go about it really helps me understand the how and why of alot of the connections. Makes me feel confident if i need to troubleshoot.
Looks are deceiving.... He got lucky with that one connector that just happened to have wires in the right place. I have the same exact connector on my bike but I had to rearrange the wires to power it on. If I plugged it in without checking it would've fried it before it had a chance to work. The positive and ground were directly swapped..
Hey GG - Glad to see you back! Looking forward to weekly videos!
Welcome back bud. I can't wait to see more of your videos
Thnx... I was going to do this to my gs650 and you took all the guess work out for me.
Thanks guys awesome video and comment tips. I am working on a bunch of upgrades for my bike and this is one of them. My cluster is different but will still have to be a whole custom made thing but I’m excited. No more rusty old gauges. Digital will be awesome for 2002 carb bike. I already removed rusty tank and put a drag tank on the back with stainless steel fuel lines and a manifold for the carb and swapped to cv40 carb vs the Vulcan 750 stock carb. Supper easy to tune on the fly with the ez adjust quick screws. I also want to put some saddle bags on for my rigging gear and make it my work bike.
And here I am looking for EXACTLY OPPOSITE! 😂I HATE the digital dash on my SV650X, it would look million times better with two analog clusters, especially with the whole cafe racer look it’s trying to achieve.
oh yeah and I forgot to mention, the fuel indicator doesn't work because when I sealed my gas tank it kinda got stuck in one position, otherwise it would work.
Goldguy how many magnet did you put on the speedometer sensor
GoldGuy how did turn the gas light off ?
More footage of riding on the GS850 please! Such a neat bike.🏁
Thats a great looking bike dude! Like what youre doing to it alot.
Glad to see you're evolving
This was exactly what I needed to work on my 83 honda shadow. Needed the help
Awesome video, I think the new gauge cluster looks great on the Kawasaki bike. Goldguy keep up up the awesome content.
Pretty sure it's a Suzuki ?
Very informative viewing man. This will help me out alot when I finally purchase my chineese magic plastic box of lights and gauges.
Opening that small box with that big ass knife was wild. I flinched when the knife hit the flaps, just millimeters from your fingers.
Thanks dude this is just what I've been looking for.
Cool Video! :)
Haha, after those first "Before-After-Shots" I feel proud to be a sax player :D
allways nice vids! Keep up the good work!
Awesome video!! Love the rebranding!!
Bro!! You're awesome for the tach trick!!! I've been trying for the last two days to find a way to get a good signal for my new digital tachometer!! I have a 98 gs550 Streetfighter
omg you needed to mesure circumference of wheel not magnet position
Thanks for sharing. My bike just had a broken speedometer/dash lcd from condensation. And its a 2nd one now. And the oem even though easy to install and takes literally 10 minutes, it is hell'a expensive vs the one you are using which is rebranded as Zaddox in the UK.
The wiring is the one I am trying to find a guide for as the wires on that speedo is completely different from my Yamaha OEM's.
I just use my phone with the Incitatio app as a digital tachometer. Saves me the work and is quite accurate.
The circumference you need to import is the circumference of your front tire and not the distance from the magnet. When your wheel registers a full rotation ( magnet passes the sensor ) it registers a cycle. A cycle without knowledge of the circumference for your tach is useless. It counts cycles and multiplies it times the circumference of the front tire. (You may got it right but i heard you saying about magnet distance measurement). Great video and very nice touch on the bike
I am so impressed with what you did. It is truly amazing what tech is offered these days that I had no clue existed. It's a thousand times better thsn stock with all those color options and fun things. The only question I have is can you retain original mileage on a bike ?
Your Tacho has different modes for different number of fired coils. Will need to tell it your bike is a 4cyl, generally they come setup for single\twin from the factory.
I have a xs750 triple. How do I program for a 3 cylinder?
Nice video and beautiful bike.
Yeah you definitely need to look at adjusting your tachometer. It was reading over 13,000 rpm at 16:10 when you revved it
Respect for opening the package with a Kukri
dear you did a great job
I really liked your video and becomes your fan now
I love the box cutter!!!!
it comes beautiful
Nicely done!
I think you need a bigger box cutter, sir. Thanks for sharing the install!
Bro thanks a lot I’m about to get one for my cbx1000😄🏍
Awesome vid well explained 👍
Very nice job!
Looks wonderful... but I didn't like the exhaust, I would've bought or made a straight and higher one and would change these wheels into a wired one too, it would be awesome if you really wanna a scrambler bike. Sorry if I wrote something wrong, be safe and keep riding!
Daniel Levy You just guessed my next video! I am modifying the exhaust...
VERY GOOD WORK.BRAVO!
I like that good choice👍🏻
i paused an headed to the comments after he pulled out that "knife"
Fly by wire Gold Guy,
Good Video. I'm doing the same to a Honda.
Your an amazing person.
One magnet worked on mine, you need to be accurate with the wheel circumference measurement.
looks a lot better than the old one
Excellent job thanks
Great vid and very helpful. What make is the screen. I'm just doing a café racer for the same model as yours. Would love to throw away the old screen. Cheers Paul
Thats a hell of a knife you got there son.......... 😎
Nice sound
Nice :-)
I wonder if there are some headunits with bigger screen and with NAV / SIM / Bluetooth ?
There should be a pulse selector in the menu for the correct tach calibration to you pulse siginal!
Definitely looks more sleek
It seems more 80's with digital gauges! 🙂
That was the same thought I had when he pulled out the gauge and if you want to see what an 80s gauge cluster looks like just look at the delorean gauges
I’m going to de 80s my 84 nighthawk! Great video! Did you solder the wires?
Looks good.
Another Good one
Wow. Good i watch now
So personally i thing they gave you 2 magnets 1 for an extra. And its picking up the signal 2 times a wheel rotation. Thats why u had to adjust it a few times
I know this video old, but as I watch this .. the only thing that I see is scrambler windscreen next.. this pretty cool.😮
thanks dud gonna do this to my honda hornet 250
crikeee! that's a knife!
Dang your a fart smeller i mean smart feller! Nice to see the process of figuring it out hour to get it just right. Good job!
To get the right RPM idling, you have to build in a resistor.
kindly elaborate
Awesome!
Have you adjust the rpm's for right reading? Have you any problems with that gauge?
Hey Gold Guy, when you refer to "spark generator" are you referring to the CDI/TDI? If yes can you please confirm?
I REALLY want to do this as I'm trying to make my old 1980 XS1100 a more modern bike with old bike vibes but I keep holding back because the tachometers never seem right. Maybe I'll just shell out the 120 for the vapor tech stuff.
I hate wiring too, least favorite part by far. But new gauge cluster looks wayyy better, that's for sure!
New video every week? If you have the time it'll be really cool.
Hey! I was wondering what wire you got the gear indicator connected to? I mean, did that year of bike not just have neutral indicator? Where is it getting the signal from to tell the tach it's in 4th, 5th, etc.
hey man, mike here again,,, jw did you do anything with the tach cable ? if so, what did you use to block it off?
Is the speedometer in the beginning of the video the same as the speedometer you brought into the video right after you adjusted the headlight?
next time modify the aftermarket wires so that you can keep the ome harness as intact as possible for the next guy
I am thinking about doing this to my 1999 Yamaha 400
Did you end up fixing the tacho at all? Shifting the cylinder settings or whatever?
But is it possible to use the bike's original mechanical system that measured speed with digital one( a device that doesn't rely on sensor installed on wheal)?
Not that I am aware of.
@@GoldGuyRides can you kindly look out this matter few more!
@@GoldGuyRides
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Your box cutter reminds me of Crocodile Dundee... That's not a box cutter.....THIS is a box cutter!
Thanks a great help
looks very goog!!!
There is settings for cylinder count and EFI or carburator, thats reason why your tach is showing wrong. Also there is setting for how many pickups you have for speedo..
When you say the spark genenrator. Are you talking about the stator wires or the pickup coil wires?? For the rpm signal wire.
Wise Turtle Gainz not the could wires, the wires that are coming out of your engine from the spark generator. It is a separate component from your stator, check out the wiring diagram for your bike
Instructions from ebay seller
A. Short press the left button to switch between total (TOTAL), subtotal (TRIP) and water temperature gauge.
B. In the subtotal interface, press and hold the left button for 3 seconds to clear the subtotal.
C. In the total interface, press and hold the right button for 3 seconds to enter the clock setting, the hour digit flashes, the second point does not flash, short press the right button to add 1, long press the right button to switch to the minute second flashing, the second point does not flash, then long press Right click to save and exit or 10 seconds of no operation to automatically save and exit or turn off the door to save and exit.
When the oil alarm symbol is displayed, switch to the TOTAL interface, press and hold the left and right keys at the same time for 3 seconds, the oil light will be off, and the next round of counting will start.
Light blue: turn right, 12V positive control, LCD display
Yellow/Black: Speed signal
Red: battery (normal, 12V positive)
Blue: High beam, 12V positive control, LCD display
Green/White: Water temperature signal
Green: 12V negative
Orange: Turn left, 12V positive control, LCD display
blue/white: fuel signal
Black: 12V positive
Φ4 round head
Brown/Red: Engine failure, negative control, LCD display
Gray: 6 gears, negative control, LCD display
Pink: 1 file, negative control, LCD display
Blue/Red: 2 files, negative control, LCD display
Green/Black: 3 files, negative control, LCD display
Yellow/Red: 4 gears, negative control, LCD display
Brown/white: 5 steps, negative control, LCD display
Green/Red: Neutral, Negative Control, LCD Display
red/white: positive sensor
Green: sensor negative
black/white: sensor signal
1 Background settings: enter the background with a password. (Major and Imperial backgrounds can be set)
Press and hold the left button to power on and enter the background setting interface.
P000: Password input 6610
4C1850:
1850 represents the perimeter, long press the left button to flash, short press the left button +1, long press the left button again to switch to the tens (0-9)
Tens digit flashes, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button again to switch to the hundreds digit (0-9)
Hundreds digit flashes, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button again to switch to thousand digit (0-9)
Thousands digit flashes, short press the left button +1 (0-2), long press the left button again to enter the magnet number adjustment interface
4 means the number of magnets, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button to save. After saving, short press the left button to enter the metric and inch interface
1-01: Metric
1-02: Inch system, long press the 1 of 001 to flash, short press the left button to switch to 2, long press the left button to save. After saving, short press the left button to enter the speed interface
2-002: Speed 166hz=10*1000 rpm, 2-004: Speed 333hz=10*1000 rpm, long press the left button and the number flashes, short press the left button to switch, long press the left button to save and then short press the left button to enter the fuel interface .
3-002: Two-Line Fuel
3-003: 3rd line fuel, long press the left button and the number flashes, short press the left button to switch, long press the left button to save and short press the left button to enter the main interface of the instrument.
👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌nice work meter works well
Centrifical force doesn't throw the magnets off the disc brake? Did you epoxy the magnets?
This has helped a lot thanks, where can I find the wiring diagram and programing list for the speedo? I have the same but it didn't come with any papers.
Please help thank you
A. Short press the left button to switch between total (TOTAL), subtotal (TRIP) and water temperature gauge.
B. In the subtotal interface, press and hold the left button for 3 seconds to clear the subtotal.
C. In the total interface, press and hold the right button for 3 seconds to enter the clock setting, the hour digit flashes, the second point does not flash, short press the right button to add 1, long press the right button to switch to the minute second flashing, the second point does not flash, then long press Right click to save and exit or 10 seconds of no operation to automatically save and exit or turn off the door to save and exit.
When the oil alarm symbol is displayed, switch to the TOTAL interface, press and hold the left and right keys at the same time for 3 seconds, the oil light will be off, and the next round of counting will start.
Light blue: turn right, 12V positive control, LCD display
Yellow/Black: Speed signal
Red: battery (normal, 12V positive)
Blue: High beam, 12V positive control, LCD display
Green/White: Water temperature signal
Green: 12V negative
Orange: Turn left, 12V positive control, LCD display
blue/white: fuel signal
Black: 12V positive
Φ4 round head
Brown/Red: Engine failure, negative control, LCD display
Gray: 6 gears, negative control, LCD display
Pink: 1 file, negative control, LCD display
Blue/Red: 2 files, negative control, LCD display
Green/Black: 3 files, negative control, LCD display
Yellow/Red: 4 gears, negative control, LCD display
Brown/white: 5 steps, negative control, LCD display
Green/Red: Neutral, Negative Control, LCD Display
red/white: positive sensor
Green: sensor negative
black/white: sensor signal
1 Background settings: enter the background with a password. (Major and Imperial backgrounds can be set)
Press and hold the left button to power on and enter the background setting interface.
P000: Password input 6610
4C1850:
1850 represents the perimeter, long press the left button to flash, short press the left button +1, long press the left button again to switch to the tens (0-9)
Tens digit flashes, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button again to switch to the hundreds digit (0-9)
Hundreds digit flashes, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button again to switch to thousand digit (0-9)
Thousands digit flashes, short press the left button +1 (0-2), long press the left button again to enter the magnet number adjustment interface
4 means the number of magnets, short press the left button + 1, long press the left button to save. After saving, short press the left button to enter the metric and inch interface
1-01: Metric
1-02: Inch system, long press the 1 of 001 to flash, short press the left button to switch to 2, long press the left button to save. After saving, short press the left button to enter the speed interface
2-002: Speed 166hz=10*1000 rpm, 2-004: Speed 333hz=10*1000 rpm, long press the left button and the number flashes, short press the left button to switch, long press the left button to save and then short press the left button to enter the fuel interface .
3-002: Two-Line Fuel
3-003: 3rd line fuel, long press the left button and the number flashes, short press the left button to switch, long press the left button to save and short press the left button to enter the main interface of the instrument.
Hey bro nice vídeo does this show the remaining fuel?
17 sounds like a better number 😆
Waaah new opening
I have a 77 CB750F that I'm in the middle of rebuilding, would you expect the same things to apply ?
When you say spark generator, is from the CDI that you get the RPM signal?
Hey can you adjust the odometer on these to match the mileage om the old one? Or does it just start at zero miles only?