"Super" Easy Multicolor Prints on your Ender 3 v2 Convert Color Images to SVGs!
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- čas přidán 19. 12. 2022
- Here is a quick video showing you the steps I use to create, model, slice, and print a multi colored model using the "filament change" script in Cura 5.2.1.
Some prerequisites, your printer firmware needs to support the filament change script, if it doesn't you can do about the same thing using the "pause at height" script and manually changing the filament.
Online SVG converter image.online-convert.com/conv...
If you don't have Photoshop, you can use online editing tools like www.photopea.com/ to create your .png's
I use this website to convert my .png's into .svg's so that I can import them into www.tinkercad.com/ .
wow that’s awesome and they’re so clean
That's what I was amazed about too! I get a Shrinky Dink vibe from them.
This is almost the same technique I use except after separating everything to layers, I output levels and then use Hueforge to do the sliced layers. Hopefully future releases of Hueforge will really simplify this process because these multi color prints are very popular with my grandkids.
Hey, amazing video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
tnx just what i was looking for. Great video dude.
Amazing video bro! Thank you!
Very cool, I'll have to try this out. I had never seen the Script option in Cura before
Great tutorial, thanks
Great video! You could also trace images in Illustrator and then save each layer as svg from Illustrator.
I tried that, but tinkercad didn’t like the svg files and wouldn’t import them.
that was quite interesting, thank you
Nice video!
(and cute Pinkie)
If you are using Prusa Slic3r, you can also very easily add "color change" on Z axis.
Usually, it's just a click on the Z axis, and the software will do it for you.
But if your model is as clean as yours, it will auto detect the layers, and add the transitions for you.
where is going to set the G-code for that?
@@iwecolor3d
Well, Slic3r Prusa edition will just insert the correct G-Code where it's needed.
You have to check/modify the G-Code in the program's configuration panel, but for me, I set it to manual filament change with Moving in Z, filament retraction, waiting for user input, filament purge, and code resuming.
So, I usually only do 2-3 color change per prints because I need to do it manually.
CHEP on CZcams got an other approach with the ZHop and lets him print in multicolor without any SVG manipulation and on an singel layer instead of stacking them, you might should look at this and give it a try.
Will definitely save time when printing just flat, but with the stacking method it's possible to get the 'thick' version you showed but didn't explained 😉👍
Printing it on the same layer will be my next project.
I mix my colors in the first layers using scripts as long as its so thin you can get away with printing one color next to the other instead of stacking just make sure to mirror what your printing or the letters will be backwards
I just saw a video on that, where it lifts the hotend during movement and you could have multiple colors on the same couple of layers. I might try that next.
Can you elaborate on this?
Great!!!
Select - make path from selection - export path to illustrator - save as svg
You’re wasting an awful lot of filament and drastically increasing your print time by stacking the colors. You might want to try everything on a single layer using z-hop instead. This will also allow the entire thing to be smooth as you can print the good side down, against the build plate.
I think I might try that method next.
Do you have a link for a video of your idea ? Thanks
great video,what color/brand did you use for Marios face?
iSANMATE Wood Filament 1.75mm, PLA+ Wood Filament www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081R88DQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@RickyGode thank you
You can direct put svg file on cura
amazing..
Can you please explain how to print same colored model's but flexible ?
i need model's with a lot of colours but they must be very flexible in order to attach them to clothing.
You could try with flexible material like TPU, but it will be really stringy depending on how many color changes you have.
@@RickyGode there’s apparently flexible PLA? I haven’t tried using it myself but apparently it prints similar to regular PLA so the strings aren’t as bad
Looks awesome! Would you be filling to share the STLs? I'm going to try with a few Zelda files, but would like to get the process down. Thanks brother
Sure here is the Super Mario one, and the others are linked to my profile on thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:5733377
@@RickyGode Thank you! - printed the 3D Thwamp and it came out awesome.
@@ilbobbyli I saw that on thiniverse! That one came out FANTASTIC
To make it quicker when setting the heights of the different layers, do this:
1. Press "w" for workspace, and click on the last imported object,.
2. Import the next layer, and hit "d" for drop to make it sit on the height of the layer it is sitting on :)
3. adjust the height of that layer you just added.
4. repeat 1..3 until all layers are imported.
To reset the workspace, hit "w" and click on the original workspace.
Thanks! This is good stuff!
@@RickyGode Glad I could help mate :)
Good tip. Knowing how to use Workspace is very handy in TK.
@@jps99 I wish I knew all the tricks, I'm continually learning
I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out how to do what I want. I have a Mosaic Pallet that will use a purge block to do colors all on the same layers. How do I make designs and have all the pieces fit rather than layering one on top of another.
This method won't do that. Do you have a multi colored printer? From tutorials I've seen each color is it's own stl and then the slicer combines them and does the purge block. Since I don't have a multicolored 3d printer, I haven't really learned any more about it.
@@RickyGode I have a MK3s. The Mosaic is an 8 filament changer. But thank you for your video, it helped a lot.
So you did all the colors manually? No need for the multicolor attachment then . I’m looking for one for the Neptune 3max but haven’t found any
Yes, I did the colors manually. But I'm only changing to the colors once. If you had an attachment you could do "true" multi-colored prints as they change hundreds of times.
With orca slicer, isnt soo much easier to make multi color print?
Upload video of mario bro ..great video thanka
Thanks!
What hot end are you running with noctuas and what
I think in this video, it's still the "stock" hot end, but I have since upgraded and installed the copper bimetal heatbreak. I kept the heatsink and the heating block the same as the bimetal heatbreak was a drop in replacement. (I did have to relevel the bed) If you're wanting to know the "mount" I used this: bantam.design Fan Mount And Holder With 3 Noctua NF-A4x20 Fans.
is it possible to print in 2 colors with ender 3 V2, or a link to wear i buy the product to make the multicolor prints
I don’t know of any other way other than manually changing it. I think bamboo labs has a new multi color printer that looks cool.
i think illustrator may be better suited for setting up thos files
I bring a file with 3 colors into photopea but it only gives me one layer. How do I separate the colors?
That's what the beginning of this video shows. You have to create the layers in photopea, then in your layer with all the colors select all the red (or whatever color it is) and paste it in that new layer you created. In my example I always paste black because the website I use to convert to SVG's does a better job with black.
If the image it's quite complicated with such many holes digged,like the Chinese Paper Cutting,how to fix it? The SVG i got convert it's not correct at those small digged, they are cover and miss,😥 thx!
I've had this happen to me as well. There are several options in the "Optional Settings" to enhance or sharpen, try checking different ones to see if that helps. But the one thing that seems to help the most, is maybe double the size of your png image when you save it. Keep making it larger until the SVG converter converts it correctly.
I just fixed that from other convert page, but i got error while it's the time to change filaments, my printer ender 3s1 pro with sonic pad, don't know how to continu tbh
@@RickyGode
Do you have any of these files online to download .....my daughter loves my little pony and I would like to make something multicolored 4 her
They are all up on thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/rickygode/designs
What app can I use instead of photoshop? I don’t own that
www.photopea.com/ is a FANTASTIC alternative
How about multicolor printing in one layer only?
I think CHEP did a video on that. I'm planning on trying that next.
can you do multiplayer print withput octoprint on ender 3 v2 ?
You should be able to. You just need to set the filament change settings in your slicer.
I would like to see how Mario did
It came out pretty good czcams.com/video/6qc9yKgR1qs/video.html
did u print them wit an single extruder
Yup, just one extruded.
@@RickyGode how did u kno where u wanted to color change to be and to put the right color
I always get a blob of filament after pause print. Could you tell me how to fix that?
So do I, I don't think I did a good job of showing it in the video, but after I change the filament and purge out the old. I hold the filament coming out of the nozzle, and keep holding it while the gantry moves to begin printing again, then as it lowers, I quickly pull out the purged filament I was holding and no more blob on filament changes. At 19:03 in the video above you can see the string of white filament I'm holding and I pull it out just before it beings printing.
@@RickyGode I also do what you said. But its not the case for me. The nozzle has to leave a fat blob ON the print and there is no way I can avoid it.
@@user-eg7hj7fd6o Man that stinks, Do you have your retraction settings dialed in? I hold on to the filament and pull it quickly just before it begins printing.
how long ya been using photoshop ?
A long time, but I know I’ve only scratched the surface.
Which ender printer
This is the ender 3 v2
I definitely wouldn't call this "super easy"... it's way beyond what most 3d printer owners are capable of.
yeah this is wildly complex for normies
Lol...for my little girl...right
I'm sorry. Watching you click all the color areas one-by-one with the magic wand is... PAINFUL... You're making a 2 minute process 30 minutes long...
*Ctrl+Click* the thumbnail icon of a layer to select *EVERYTHING* on that layer.
*Ctrl+Shift+Click* another layer thumbnail to *ADD* to your current selection.
*Ctrl+Alt+Click* to *SUBTRACT.*
*Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Click* to select the *OVERLAP* between 2 selections. Don't really know how to word that. play around with it twice to understand it.
*(Alt+Click* on a layer with zoom the screen to fit that entire layer. That's all the useful tips I have on that. Someone let me know if there's others I should be aware of.)
Thanks! There are a ton of shortcuts that I don't know about in Photoshop, that's why I click on everything!
What if we don't have octoprint? Will all the steps work till the exporting to octoprint? I assume it just needs to be loaded to SD card or thumbdrive thats normally used?
It should still work just fine saving the gcode to a sd card. As long as your printer supports the change filament command.