Restoring the Epoxy on a Cedar Strip Canoe
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- čas přidán 29. 05. 2018
- Recently I was approached by a friend to try and restore the epoxy of this cedar strip canoe. As visible in the first minute of the video the bottom of the canoe was in rough shape. It had been driven over a few rocks and was in need of some repair. In order to achieve a proper finish the canoe had to be sanded down starting from a 60 grit to 100 to 150. Once the heavy scratches were removed replacement fibre glass could be added to the damaged sections. Not all of the scratches were removed however as they were very deep. West System 105 and 207 hardener were mixed and added to protect the canoe. The overall results are a practical working cedar strip canoe that wont break the bank.
Sorry, this is not UV damage, it comes from if you pull the glass fiber directly onto the wood, so always first coat the wood with epoxi and let the epoxi move in, then coat the second epoxi and only then pull on the glass fiber, all of these operations, of course wet on wet this gives the best and safest connection, this of course requires that you use an epoxy that reacts slowly so you have enough time from one work step to the next work step !!! bad connections don't show up immediately, bad connections only show up over time !!!
when you say epoxy , do you mean fiberglass resin ?
My Peterborough canoe has some delam spots, but not white as in your video, I have lifted parts of fibreglass and wood bubble, dont know if its fixable, and dont want to drill any holes yet till I have a solution or if you can provide..... I also have a large piece where it went white and delammed all the way so im trimming and will re fibre cloth and glass, done that before and it worked, just wondering if you can handle some pics and give some advice. Thanks
thanks for watching, i would follow the video as best as you can. You need to get rid of any sections that are loose or delaminated. if the wood is rotten or gone get rid of that too. make sure you get back to solid wood or solid epoxy before re applying epoxy. Good luck !
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking so the delaminated between wood and FG are only on the outside, and although delamed the continuous hull does not have any bad areas to grind or cut out. I'm going to leave them alone and just recoat with more epoxy, that should give more durability and solidness. Paint store guy Said not to use the West system(2 part) which is what I had used in the last two refinished, he says go with a marine brand from a marine store. Do you know what that would be? Lastly need to replace the seats, any suggestions, catgut,? They were solid oak but now have cracked and dried out....tks
@@kinetikhockey8120 i'm not sure why the paint store guy would say that, West System is a leading provider in marine epoxy. Just check out their project page. Solid oak that is cracked can be repaired depending on the severity. You can actually force the seat to snap in half then reglue with titebond III directly where the crack is and glue it back together. Or 4 coats of boiled linseed oil will reintroduce moisture into the wood and stop it from drying out. white oak is water resistant, red oak is not www.westsystem.com/projects/
hiya. this is pure gold to me, as i'm trying to fix the canoe my dad built and i've never done anything like it in my life. I couldn't hear what you were saying about what you were wiping it down with after you sanded it, vacuumed it. just alcohol?
thanks for watching i used denatured alcohol, it evaporates quickly. I have a paddle board video where i use this right before fibre glassing
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking What about isopropyl alcohol? What's wrong with that? Maybe it's not a strong enough cleaner? Thanks
@@Hundert1 i dont tsee why it isopropyl wouldnt work
@@Hundert1 Works great. no worries
Can we just go ahead and apply 2nd after the 1st coat gets a little tacky? like after about 2 or 3 hours of drying? I think I've seen some people on CZcams apply extra coats this way. Or is it absolutely necessary to fully cure the 1st coat and sand before applying the 2nd coat? If we do several coats what's the best policy? I use West System epoxy too. Thanks
Yes it is possible to do it that way to
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking so, if we do a nice smooth job applying the several coats we don't need to sand any? The hull will be all finished after we stop coat applications? Or maybe give a light 800 grit sanding then buff out with compound stuff? I've used Sherwin Williams very strong compound to get out light scratches before. I may wax as a final coat. Have you heard of doing that? Wax for more UV protection and a super slick finish for faster padding.
@@Hundert1 my advice to you would be to follow the instructions given on the west system website or instruction sheet. Every application is different. I have heard of using 3M Perfect It to remove scratches. I guess wax would work as long as you keep applying it.
@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking Awesome, thank you! I will try find and read West System info.
Is that west system 207 UV stable or do you have to put a varnish on afterwards?
it is the 207, for my paddle board i put spar varnish overtop, for this i didnt put any varnish overtop
So thats all epoxy plus a finishing epoxy as the final coat?
yes
I think the same epoxy is used as the final coat
I clean using acetone. As for the final coat, I finish off the epoxy coat as smoothly and consistently as I can, then add on a couple of coats of yacht varnish with uv filtering as the really final coats.
How much did the FG cloth weigh?
hey i didnt put any new cloth on this canoe, i just sanded down the old epoxy and put new epoxy on. I have a paddle board fiber glassing video and the mass of the cloth is about the weight of a large T shirt
My canoe had 4ounce cloth, and was told it would be enough and it has been
When building this canoe. Original builder, waited too long between fill coats. Lost the Chemical bond window. That is the reason for the epoxy chipping.
Scrape those runs ! Sanding uncured epoxy, is better not good for your health.