Drill Bit Basics
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- čas přidán 28. 03. 2020
- Here is my drill bit basics video to go along with my basic machining class at Parkland College. Check out the other videos in the series:
Reamer Basics: • Reamer Basics
Countersinks and Counterbores: • Countersinks and Count...
Endmill Basics: • Endmill Basics
Consistent Countersinks and Spot Drills: • Quick Machining Tip #4...
Class handout: drive.google.com/open?id=1znU...
Just for your global education, your silver and demming are known as blacksmiths drills in the UK.
Thanks. That's an awesome little piece of info! I'm a big fan of blacksmithing, so this makes me happy.
Excellent overview. I remember that one of my big awakenings becoming a machinist, was that something I had always thought of as extraordinarily simple, isn’t. There are so many drill sizes, lengths, shanks, materials, coatings, and styles, not to mention techniques, sharpening, hardening, and more. It’s a great place to start with a DIYer, because along the way one covers also the importance of rigidity, work holding, lubrication, and perhaps most importantly for the beginner - patience, as good results can often require multiple steps and tooling.
Thanks for both this and the reamer videos, they answered a bunch of questions I didn't even know I had when looking at buying tools previously
Thanks Stuart, I like the way you explain tooling.
Excellent information.
Always something interesting, thanks.
Excellent overview!
Wow, thank you very much! This was very informative and well thought out.
Killer video. About to order some spot drills. Thank you.
Really like your videos !
Excellent video, very useful. Congratulations and thanks for the pedagogical effort.
Great video
very informative, good job
Amazing content thank you.
Very well explained
Thank you
You're very welcome!
Excellent video sir
Awesome...thanks.
Awesome!
Thank You
Reduced shank drills are known as Silver & Deming drills because they were pioneered by Salem, Ohio based Silver & Deming Manufacturing Company
I could never figure that one out -- thanks.
Great to know. Thank you!
Great video Stuart.
Is there a remedy for the three-lobed holes in sheet metal?
I recently purchased an entire machine shop from a friend who retired. He also moved out of the country so he's not available to tell me what some of the stuff is. There were about 50 collets that I have no idea what they are for. There were in two different varieties and all different sizes. You showed one with a drill in it so now i know what they're for. I have to check to see if they fit the tailstock. The small ones definitely don't but there's probably an adapter in there someplace to make them fit where eve he was using them.
Send me some pictures of them to the email on my channel's About tab and I'll see if I can shed some light on them for you. There are a LOT of different types of collets out there, so it can definitely be hard to keep tabs on them.
@@StuartdeHaro I"ll do that. I tried them in my tailstock today and the one size is too large and the other is too small. So I have no idea what they're for or even if they go with anything I've got. They may just be random stuff he got in a lot purchase and he couldn't actually use.
The unfortunate thing is that I had 30 days to get his shop moved. My home is so over-crowded that it took me three weeks to clear it out enough to move his stuff in. It was so bad that I had machines in my living room and I had to literally climb over furniture.
So I've now got it all sorted but I didn't have any time during that period to go over stuff with him in detail which would have been very helpful.
Anyway, I'll get some photos and send them to you. I have a couple other items that I have no clue about either. One looks like a cutter of some type. Four bars that converge toward the center that are just off parallel to the arbor. I think it goes in the tail post but no clue really and no idea what it's for.
@@StuartdeHaro OK, I figured out what the odd cutter is. It's marked "Kutmore No 204". It's a Hollow Milling Cutter. Same as this but different model #.
www.ebay.com/itm/191452969329
@@StuartdeHaro I just found one of the others by searching the patent. It's this:
patents.google.com/patent/US2472040A/en
On these longer drills drilling deep what can we do to keep it drilling straight and on center?
Spot drilling first helps a lot. Beyond that, use the best quality sharp drill bit you can.
I was surprised you didn't mention Bell centers that would have been interesting to hear about
You know, I don't own any of those. If I come across any of them, I'll try to work them in to another video. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro I found out about them when making an offset for the tailstock to turn between centers
instead of a taper they make a shape for a ball bearing to be the contact point on each end
@@wnebergall thanks for mentioning these Bill. I've never heard of them before. They make alot of sense for turning tapers.
@@andyZ3500s somewhere on CZcams there is a video on using a boring head in the tail stock for the off set
@@wnebergall thanks bill I seen a video on the subject. If your shank is removable you can pick up a Morse taper shank for $20. It is a great idea faster to set up and then you don't have to reset your tail stock. Thanks again Andy
Hi, Stuart. I hope you don't mind if I ask another question. I have a subland drill - 5/16" to 1/2" counterbore. I typically run 5/16 at about 600RPM into 1080. Never worked with a subland drill before. I usually run a 1/2" drill at around 400RPM into the same material. Lower revs as a counterbore. In this case, would you suggest that the 600RPM is maintained and then a significantly lower the feed as the drill hits its 1/2" section? That seems like the way to go on a purely intuitive level, but what do I know?
Hi Felix. I don't mind at all. Typically counterbores are run at a speed 1/3 less than the same size drill, so you definitely don't want to use the same speeds. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@StuartdeHaro Thank you so much!
4:37 , I've got a drawer full of those! :-( Good stuff Stuart, got a recommendation for drill sets that won't break the bank? I'm just gonna F them up in my drill doctor anyways.
So do I! It's like we're twins! I have sets by Precision Twist Drill and Cleveland and neither were terribly expensive. My recommendation for any cutting tool is to buy quality so it only hurts once. The first set I ever bought was an imported number drill set for around $30 and every time I used them I started using all the fun words my grandpappy taught me.
@@StuartdeHaro Thanks Stuart. I'll check em out.👍
Stuart, would you say that running a .368 carbide drill into A2 at 1200RPM is too slow?
It seems like it my be OK. A2 is tough stuff so use your eyes and ears. Look at the chip you're getting and watch for that typical curly drill chip you get with steel. That indicates the right feed. Now look at the color. Steel color is fine, but you can probably go at a higher RPM. Tan to royal blue, you're good. Light blue to gray, slow down a bit. Lastly listen. Squealing is bad and it could come from too high a speed or too light a feed or both. Either way the tool is rubbing and vibrating and that will damage carbide and burn up HSS. This is a quick and dirty explanation that is probably oversimplified, but it will get you through. Thanks for watching!
@@StuartdeHaro Thank you very much! I appreciate your time.
Very informative.Thank you.I use microdrills,say 1mm or 1/16"in diameter. For me, the fluted part is to long.How can I cut it shorter and resharpen it?.I only know Amscope,pinvise and diamond plates.
In my experience, tiny drill bits cut themselves short as soon as I touch them. In all seriousness though, resharpening bits gets pretty challenging in small sizes without a drill grinder. You'd probably be money ahead just searching for ones that are stubbier from your tool supplier.
@@StuartdeHaro Thank you
If wanting "micro drills" with a shorter length then look at your local Jewellery Suppliers.
The majority of jewellery drills are shanked 2.35mm (3/32") in HSS & Carbide, the better being German or Swiss made.
Busch is possibly the best known. www.busch.eu/fileadmin/custom/pdf/busch_J_spiralbohrer_de_en.pdf
HTH, Colin
Si puo avere una spiegazione in italy
What kind of drill bits are bowling drill bits?
I'm not sure. I've never done it, but my brother has. I'll ask him and get back to you.
I asked my brother for you and he said they were regular drill bits, so I'm guessing they were Silver and Deming bits. I vaguely remember seeing the setup (we both worked at Kmart and he was the sporting goods manager). I remember they had a drill press in a storage closet and that's where they did the deed, but I never did it and it has been 25 years.
Thanks Stuart
:39✅ :47❎🤔😛
Great video
Thank you
You're very welcome!