How To Amend Your Soil and AVOID These BIG MISTAKES
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- čas přidán 2. 04. 2024
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Thank you all so much for watching and Grow BIG! - Jak na to + styl
My husband and I were at your store yesterday. I picked up my blueberry bush and many other goodies for my garden. Your staff are very helpful and kind. Thank you for all you do.
Where is his store?
When I started gardening a lifetime ago, if I learned of a new gardening tip that made sense, I adopted it. After several growing seasons, I was purchasing a lot of different soil additives, not having a clue as to whether any of these things worked.
Eventually, I decided to simplify my efforts and purchases. The only thing I knew for sure was that compost was effective. So, I started my new strategy by adding compost only to my many raised beds. And I resolved not to do anything else unless I knew for sure that the expenditure and/or effort produced noticeable results.
The challenge for me was that I'm curious and I like to try new things. So, I resolved that I would reserve a couple of my raised beds each season to test a different amendment or practice, grow identical crops in these test beds and in other compost-only beds. Then I would compare the results. I didn't bother with precise measurements as I'm not interested in slight differences. The test for success was simply observation.
My gardening approach has varied little from my compost only strategy, with one notable change: I learned of something called a "no-dig" approach. The benefits of this method seemed too good to be true. But the idea of not having to dig in my compost was too compelling. So, I resolved to test the method.
I intended to test this method over the course of three years. So I dedicated two of my beds for the test. I just laid down a few inches of compost at the end of each season then applied a thick layer of leaves as mulch for the winter.
After two years I didn't notice a significant difference in the size or amount of my veggies, but I did notice the lack of weeds. More importantly, it saved me a lot of work. My three-year study concluded after only two years. I knew for sure that it would work for me.
I tell you this not to promote the idea of "no dig", but to convince gardeners to conduct their own similar tests. Especially currently when one can get so much gardening advice that is questionable at best. And there are a multitude of channels that are promoting their own product.
If a site is promoting their own product and you're tempted to try it, resolve to do your own tests. I guarantee that you will save a lot of time and money over time.
I've been gardening for a long time. And I've done trials on biochar, azomite/rock dust, many variations of garden "teas" and I've forgotten several others. I have yet to find anything that gives me significantly improved results over my compost-only approach. Yet, I'm still searching for that magic solution that will supersize my veggies.
Great content Luke. One thing to mention about your method of determining the pH of the soil with the pool strips. That method is also dependent on the pH of the water you are using. Some places that use well water could have very different pH water... some very acidic, some very basic. Also, tap water usually has to gas off any additives and the pH of the water after 24 hours will be very different from what it is directly out of the tap. As such, regardless of your water source, when performing this test, the best option would be to go out and buy some distilled water from the grocery store. Distilled water will have a perfect pH of exactly 7.0 without any dissolved solids, gasses, etc. Most grocery stores will have it in the water aisle by the gallon jug, just be sure to get the gallon jug marked explicitly as 'distilled' water, and not purified drinking water or spring water.
Great comment! Thank you for sharing this
Thank you. I was wondering how to navigate this, knowing the pH of types of water can vary! 🎉
Wouldn't it make more sense to test it with the water you will be using to water the garden with so you get a complete picture? If you test with distilled water and amend for that then water with tap or well water, it won't get the same results.
sarahlyons4879 Have you read that the water used to water a garden will change it's pH significantly? What about rain water?
In November I cover unused beds with a layer of leaves. Come winter, I burry the leaves with a layer of compost, and plant into it. Fertilizer is used sparingly as needed. I have plenty earthworms, so I must be doing something right. Soil PH is usually around 6.7, so I don't bother trying to change the PH. As long as the veggies are growing well, there is no need. I've been building layers this way for four years, so there is plenty of organic material. The plants look healthy, and are growing strong, so nitrogen is good, and I imagine they are getting plenty of minerals from the leaves.
I love ALL MIgardener videos!
Great timing on amending for root crops. Thanks so much because you saved my radishes from just being pretty leaves!
New gardener here. That was a lot of information, but good thanks Luke. I will listen to it again and make sure I get it all.
Good stuff! The surface level is deep enough for a newbie like me. 80:20 rule.
I till in partially composted fall leaves and sometimes add in some (powdered) Azomite.
For the NPK, I use organic tomato fertilizer or Alaska Fish Fertilizer. And on occasion worm castings. I reserve chemical fertilizers for hanging flower baskets.
Nice thing about Azomite is that it also contains much needed calcium.
Pelletized gypsum helps break up heavy clay soil and it too has that much needed calcium.
I'd love a breakdown of bloodmeal, bonemeal and fertilizer, especially focusing on the quantities and incorporation since the bag directions are so extrapolated that my 4x8 beds could easily get too much or too little. And would you ever amend (loosen) soil texture with coco coir? Great info as always, thanks for sharing.
It's almost impossible to use too much bone meal. 2 cups of blood meal in a 4x8 bed will provide a heavy feeding for the season.
Your explanation of leaf colors was helpful, thank you!
Your beds are well established and only 12” inches high, so there may be some compaction over the Winter months but little, if any settling. Whether new last year, or only a few years old, many beds which are 2 feet high or higher probably settled (not just compacted) at least 6 inches. In many pics I’ve seen on social media of raised beds, it appears some people have only topped up their beds with compost, often including a lot of small wood pieces or chips.
I would suggest that simply adding only compost, coconut coir, peat, or perlite (& sometimes potting mix), in my opinion the content missing is actual soil.
I would also suggest whatever is added needs to be worked into whatever is already in the raised bed, rather than just adding it to the top.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Wonderful advice! I'd love to see a video focused on the different nutrients we might need to amend for: What happens to your plants if they don't have enough? How do you address the problem? Can you over-amend? How often should you check the levels of these nutrients?
Your local university extension office will be able to provide this information for you. Your tax dollars at work.
Will be referring to this one often!
Defiantly agree, look after your soil and your soil will look after you. Lets get growing :) I'm just about to turn my soil over from winter. 🙏🙏🌱🌱
“Grow your soil”❤ the plants will thrive
Great information, if you are amending soil specific for certain types of plants, ie root development and brassicas , do you stop doing crop rotation for plants such as tomato into those beds or is amended soil depleted in that year. I have four small raised beds. Also, I don't develop enough compost for my small beds, what type of compost should I purchase?
If you're in a situation where you have to buy in compost, buy varied brands and contents. All are good in moderation, but they have varied composition. Mushroom compost has a different makeup than composted steer manure, and so on.
Thanks for sharing!!! This was very helpful!
Wood ash is strongly alkaline with a pH of 11-12. If you use it, use sparingly and only on soil that tests acidic. I used to use it in my gardens but no longer do.
Awesome info once again. More and more what I am doing or have already done recently is mirroring a lot of your videos 👊🏻🌻👊🏻
Thank you, Luke. 😊
Great, timely reminder about amending raised bed soil! Thanks, Luke.
Thank you so much! Just what I needed.
Can you do a video on how you test your soil with pool strips
Love your posts.
This is awesome!!! Thank you!!! Would you do another video even more in depth?
Fantastic content, I really needed this
Great video! Thanks!
Great video Luke. 😊
Great info thanks! This is my 3rd year with my own backyard garden beds so I'll take any advise I can get especially when it comes to amending soil and what plants need what nutes! Thank you so much!
Compost made from leaves like oak and beech tends to have a low pH. I usually work in some pellitized lime when adding compost. The exception would be potatoes which prefer a lower pH. Great video!
Perfect timing. I was just watching videos for amending heavy clay soils. Our new acreage is all clay. It's going to be some in-depth work over there. At home we have some amendment work to do also. Thanks in advance.
Have you started adding sand?
@@jarredkushnerd13 ground is still frozen here. Can’t do much for a few more weeks.
@@jarredkushnerd13adding sand to clay most likely will turn it to cement. Adding compost and plant matter will help break up the clay (such as cover crops).
Won't turn into cement if using JMS and LIMO, EM and biochar
Ooooh I liked this video, gobs of food for my nerd brain 😂. High value video here, thank you!
You said some sand for your carrots can you also ad some sand for your lettuce beets spinach radishes??
its snowing! lol thats Michigan for ya haha
Great video! When you are amending for texture, do you add your compost to the top of the soil or do you kind of mix it in?
why does your trifecta have pictures of root crops if you dont use it where your growing them? @11:15
I’m still in the dark! You explained how to test pH, but as a casual gardener, I don’t know how to test for nutrient deficiencies, other than to sprinkle on azomite now, trifecta later, and hope for the best!
$20 should get you a comprehensive soil test from your local university or extension office.
My beautiful, dark, muck, very high nitrogen soil doesn't like growing root crops (beets, carrots, radishes...). They hardly germinate at all, and the handful that do don't produce. This year i am going to do raised beds for my root crops so i can control the soil. Here's hoping!
Potatoes and onion sets (onion seeds dont do well here) do just fine, no real complaints there, although size and yield could use a little boost.
I add rock dust and sulphur to my compost as I add ingredients.
I live in Illinois zone 5 and have extremely thick clay in my soil when you try to dig into it it's a backbreaking you can see the brown clay running everywhere through the soil. I also have quite a few tree roots growing in the soil from the huge maple trees I have in the front which provide a lot of shade. Can you suggest some type of Campos there can be added to my soil since I do not have a compost bin and really know where to put one. I love listening to your videos they're very informative. I would appreciate any suggestions you have.
Genius ph test strips testing method!
Just watched Before You Build Raised Beds Watch This Video and that along with this video has me asking about two thing. We have a new raised bed area we are putting together next to our existing garden where we will trellis butternut squash. We do not have access to our own Compost so we will be filling it with bagged material. Right now Lowes has Miracle Gro Garden Soil on sale and we planned to use that with maybe some filler material in the deepest area. The bed will be about 7 inches deep in the shallowest area and 12 inches deep in the deepest. Is this a good alternative to naturally home made compost? In addition we plan on putting 1 inch of the Miracle Gro Garden Soil ontop of the existing garden soil to freshen it up. Is that a good choice or would bagged composted manure be better?
Luke, wear nitrile (or similar) gloves when handling fertilizer. (I was an EHS Manager for the last 20yrs of my career.)
I've got an interesting challenge with my garden. I'm on a well and my well water has high Ph. So it tends to make plants chlorotic. It makes my soil too high in Ph. So I have to regularly lower the Ph and supplement beds with iron. It drives me a little crazy having to constantly deal with the problem, but amending the soil is to important. I also love using alfalfa pellets. It is much easier than buying seeds to grow a cover crop.
I had this same issue when I lived in Missouri.
Look into a water catchment system.
Also if you have the space look into making water banks with wood chips. This way it holds onto rain water.
Hope this helps.
@@mj9566 I'm not totally sure what a catchment system means? You mean catching rainwater to water plants?
Yup that's exactly what it is
You can put that into the search bar and all sorts of ideas for all types of spaces will pop up.
I'm french so if I understand well, I should not add azomite with crops roots plants right ? thank you
You talked about amending for clay or compacted soil, but what do you do for very sandy, loose soil?
Would thin all natural mulch help compacting soil? We’ll help avoid it?
I just posted a question about soil! Lol! Looking for books about improving soil health, rejuvenating, including plants that can be grown to extract/add/correct components.
Great info.thx
Seawater adds trace minerals or Sea-90
Doesn't salt kill everything though?
@@nateauldan agricultural sea salt like sea 90 has a much lower proportion of NaCl than a typical culinary sea salt will have, and trace minerals are needed in such minute quantities that it will provide the minerals without supplying a significant quantity of NaCl.
@@cantseetheforestforthetree9673 Good to know, thanks!
@@nateauld in JADAM sea water is a regular input to remineralized the soil.
Any ideas for amending a bed for textures AFTER I've planted asparagus crowns? I thought I had added enough sand to what it really pretty good soil, but with the first watering in and now three days of heavy rainfall, I see standing puddles on my bed.
You should sell the compost you make! So many manufacturers are selling bags that are way too small and the quality is always a gamble.
My radishes didn't form shoulders at all and I ot what looks like a small carrot underneath if that. I was using that liquid formula of Masterblend, Calcium Nitrate, and Epsom Salt. Would that be too much nitrogen or is something else off?
Two more inches of snow here overnight. Garden beds covered again.
Great video but tell me how do I add Sulfur, Iron, and Boron. I had a soil test done and I am lacking these three, but no clue how to bring them up.
Can you add new organic soil? My beds look like the soil got washed out a little bit and I’m unsure if that will help.
Any advice for someone who has not gotten around to making their own compost? 😊 every time I try to save scraps they end up out to the chickens lol
If you run your scraps through the chickens you get both eggs and manure. Win-win.
Your zone 6a there, correct? Seems drier there. I'm too wet here in my gardens in Nova Scotia Zone 6b yet, to do much. And have snow falling again today.🌨 :(
What is the pH of the WATER you are adding to your jar of soil. That is what your test strips are measuring without that jar setting for days in the water.
Where do you get your trace minerals? I didnt see them on your website.
Where can I find a chart of the PH that various plants want?
Luke how long do these changes last in the soil? Like ph
Do you separate all those worms before you apply the compost?
What can I do with my lemon rinds? I'm told I can't put them in my compost, but we use lots of lemons and I hate just putting them in the trash. Will they ruin my compost pile? Love your channel and look forward to every new show.
I think if you do a hot controlled compost you can. Google hot compost and compsting citrus.
💚💚💚
Oh man, i just used trifecta for my beets, turnips and carrots, sadness.. wish i would have seen this before Monday.
I put it in my garlic beds with blood meal and Bone meal every year. I still had good sized cloves. I was growing inground with sandy soil. And we get alot of rain. I did it in my beds too. I think you will be fine.
What type of alfalfa pellets do you use?
My soil is holding so much water that it's a muddy mess. It is mostly compost. Should I add sand?
I am in Idaho and have very alkaline soil. How can I amend to reduce the alkalinity?
I have 3 compost piles new pile 1 year old pile 2 year old pile . I am trying to amend my sandy soil I have made a vibratory screen to mix top soil and my compost. How much compost is to much I have been doing 50%.
I had soil that is almost pure sand, what should I do to it?
Top with compost. And maybe look into woodchips as soil amendment. Will take some time to break down but should add organic matter into your sandy soil
Have you noticed any changes in your gardening since the geoengineering has picked up in the sky?
I don't see much about amending a highly alkaline soil. My soil is highly alkaline and clay. I have added compost every year and it is getting better but I haven't seen much about soils like mine.
Wood chip mulch does wonder for clay soil
@@codytibbs9885 Yes it does if you can get wood chips. I have bags of leaves donated to me in the fall and they work well too. It just takes time.
haha - is that snow falling in your video?
hello hello.. did you get frozen in your place?
He is in Michigan, a northern state in the USA. So yes, it freezes in the winter.
👍❤️👍❤️👍
Hmm maybe because it was recently posted, but do your videos not come with captions? Im guessing it takes time to upload that as well…. -deaf farmer
And they work* *grabs her breakfast and begins watching*
The close captioning is working now two hours later, but I have to tap the CC box to turn it on
@@Crashbangable yeah Im learning that CZcams isn’t quite on the ball with syncing videos with their subtitles. Im also not used to seeing videos as they are uploaded in real time, but seeing them days later. Thanks!
If you're using composted material you're not going to encounter leeching.
The biggest problems with synthetic fertilizers is that they're expensive, over time add salt to the garden, leech into the environment causing algal blooms in waterways and end up killing off soil life.
Just a few facts.
I don't believe you should make any amendments like this without testing and verifying that you actually NEED to. You kind of touched on it with ph but not fertilizing.
Blasting excess nitrogen, which just leeches away, is bad for your wallet and the environment. I'm not one of *those* nuts. I just try not to contribute to pollution of any kind.
I get the sense a diversely composed compost is going to bring basically everything you actually need year over year. With periodic testing you can determine if you factually need to add anything extra. Why make things more expensive than they need to be while also potentially causing harm?
I started my garden in dirt last year. Yes dirt. I cut through a mix of dead grass and moss and then loosened and hydrated the dirt.
I added an organic slow fertilizer. I used a liquid fertilizer twice when the plants clearly needed it. I mulched with compost in fall before ignoring it all winter.
This year that patch is visibly fertile even before I've planted anything. If I was serious I'd test it. Otherwise I'm not gonna second guess nature or spend money I might not have to.
I got a few trash bags of kale and many radishes out of that little 3x3 patch of dirt-turned-soil in the very same season. The only input was the bit of fertilizer and seeds. That's like $20 total. I have the same stuff this year so $0 of extra input and I expanded to 18' long. I view it like coding. 90% the way there is easy and sufficient. The extra 10% cost way more and often is completely unnecessary with regard to accomplishing your goals. My goal is to grow food to save money on what I buy. Not to compete in a veggy competition with the neighbor or whatever haha.
The extra 10% cost could be used to just expand what you're already doing. For example, this year I sheet mulched and forked the dirt in late summer and I brought in some top soil to go over it. No fussing with the dirt below like last year. I expanded my garden x6 with $15 of top soil and $30 of peat. Based on my previous year with dirt, I know its going to perform beautifully.
You seem to always BUY PRODUCTS. When if you "compost properly" you get EVERYTHING you need!
PS
If you add a ton of mushrooms in your compost you bring in soon much! Best recommended by mycologists!
Grow Big or Go Home
You’re fertilising, that’s not soil amendment
I think you are doing your viewers a disservice by not explaining how if they are not operating an organic garden they can use synthetic fertilizers. For example the Alfalfa meal you were applying has a 3-1-2 NPK urea has an NPK of 46-0-0 or about 15 times as much nitrogen as the alfalfa. There are also disadvantages with synthetics, for example the alfalfa meal will help improve the soil structure as it breaks down.
Id say reframe everyone making mistakes to "heres what the best gardeners do". The assumption is no one has a clue. Lol
You aren’t fixing the soil by adding chemical fertilizers
Great video! Thanks!