Thanks.! I just finish wife valve cover focus 2.0 very common the plug holes were filled with oil could not believe it was still running ! Now have vacuum leak, I'm thinking this is the problem pvc hose are very come problems
exactly how long did it took u to do this kind of job I need to change the pcv on my 07 Ford focus I'm pretty sure it hasn't been change and it has 185000 miles on it
I did it on my 05 a couple of weeks ago. Did the entire job in a Sunday afternoon. Some of the steps done here aren't necessary though. This is all I did: 1) Remove air box assembly 2) Remove throttle body, disconnect TB sensor & throttle cable 3) Disconnect IAC valve sensor, Intake Runner Control Sensor, & MAP sensor 4) Unbolt fuel rail, but do not remove; you only need it to move a little towards the firewall to get the intake manifold out 5) Unbolt intake manifold. There are 8 bolts. The two trickiest ones are one in the middle (a slot is cut out of the manifold at the front to fit a socket through) and a hidden bolt underneath the neck where the throttle body mounts. It's not visible, so you'll have to feel around for it. 6) Unbolt the oil dipstick - you'll need a torx bit. Why Ford used a torx bolt for this one thing? I don't know. 7) Don't forget the bottom bolt for the Intake Manifold - you'll have to access it from under the car; it's at the bottom near the oil pan. *TIP FOR BOLT REMOVAL:* Get a telescoping magnet from your local auto parts store. I unscrewed the bolts until they were loose, then came in from the top with my magnet and removed the bolts that way. You don't drop them into the engine bay this way. Also, when reinstalling, attach the magnet to the bolt shaft and use the magnet to slip the bolt into it's bolt hole, then feed your socket/extension in to tighten it. Reinstallation was actually easier than removal this way. You'll have to wiggle the manifold some to get it out; it's a tight squeeze. Eventually, you can lift it out and tip it over to the right where you can easily access the PCV vacuum hose. Unclamp hose, replace, then start fitting the intake manifold back into position. Be sure to clean the mating surface on the cylinder head and check that no debris fell into the valve chambers. Also, when moving the manifold back into position, make sure the PCV hose doesn't crimp or twist. I had to re-orient mine a couple of times before it fit properly. Finally, be sure to tighten down the manifold bolts evenly; don't tighten one at a time, as this will make mounting impossible! After the manifold is back in place, everything else is the reverse of the removal. TBH, this was a utterly stupid design idea. The reason the hose fails so commonly on these engines is because it's routed right next to a coolant hose, which gets extremely hot. The vacuum hose is not durable enough to survive repeated expansion/contraction due to extreme heat.
@@dmusk Just need a replacement length of vacuum hose. I think I got some at my local auto parts store. However, RockAuto may sell the pre-formed piece.
I will be doing this job this week end on my wife car. worked on cars all my life and ford also seem to screw around with most common parts that fail and place them in hard to get to spots! Why they ever put the alternator almost on top of the exhaust manifold & then have No trap door like Toyota does for fuel pumps ! @@sixstanger00
@@mgtowstanleyzoltanov9808 Thanks for the tip, Had to do that on my f150 not a fun job. Did a smoke test and intake was leaking so took off and the gaskets "new" looked fine so used copper permatex and so far it seems running better. Chain may be next. how did you diagnose that was your problem?
@@55chevytruck By trial and error. I cleaned the injectors myself but put out and in was about a 100 to a Bulgarian mechanic friend. Next was EGR valve. 600 pounds another Bulgarian at Scotland. Next smoke test. Next computer diagnostic and changing all the fuses. I did this to a friend around 500 pounds. And so on for 2 years until it was simply time to change the timing chain :)
SURGING IDLE, POOR FUEL ECONOMY & LOSS OF POWER. MAY OR MAY NOT TRIGGER CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IF LIGHT ILLUMINATES AND THE CODE RELATES TO A EVAP ERROR OR OXYGEN SENSOR FAILURE THEN MOST LIKELY YOU HAVE A VACUUM LEAK.
@@caseyjones3684 my revs do surge a little when the engine is warm, but it does it worse when the engine is cold especially when changing gear (when revs drops it bounces back up at about 500rpm). Power seems to have a mind if its own, sometimes it's there and sometimes not. I've had new O2 sensors and a new TMAP sensor fitted but no change really. Checked all vacuum pipes for leaks and they are ok.
@@dangerousdave74 check engine light on? Several things could cause idle fluctuation. One of which could be a Vacuum leak. Provide me the year your Escape is & which engine option is it equipped with?
@@caseyjones3684 it a 2010 Ford Focus CC 2.0 petrol. There is no engine lights on but I have noticed that when accelerating hard there is a loud intake roar but not a lot of power if that helps.
@@dangerousdave74 start checking vacuum lines, especially the PCV vacuum line. I bet you will find one or two of them partially collapsed while engine is running. If you do notice deteriorated, collapsing vacuum hose replace them right away. A good indication of a deteriated line, is when you touch it it will feel rough & most likely will leave black/gray residue on your hand that will not be real easy to wipe off. If your lines check ok & you hear no audible hissing or air leaks. Turn off your car, remove the bonnet from on top of your throttle body.Inspect your throttle plate both sides.If the plate has a gold tint to it with minimal blackened portions reinstall you bonnet. If your plate has alot of black moist looking finish, grab a can of 2 plus 2 or carb cleaner. Thoroughly clean the plate until that residue is removed. Be careful not to over spray a lot of cleaner into the throttle body. You can also try this. Disconnect ONLY your negative battery terminal, be certain to isolate the battery ground cable from the battery's ground post you can use a shop rag for this. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THEY DO NOT TOUCH ONE ANOTHER WHEN DISCONNECTED. Take a wire 12 gauge and or higher. "JUMPER WIRE" Put one end of the wire onto the positive battery post which is still connected to the vehicle wiring harness & then other end onto the disconnected battery GROUND WIRE NOT THE GROUND POST ON THE BATTERY god forbid. Let it sit for approx 5 mins. This will reset the PCM & drain its compacitors. Remove your jumper wire, then reconnect your Battery Ground Wire. Start the Car & let idle for 2-5 mins, This is the procedure for the PCM to relearn the idle circuit & throttle positioning.
2005 and up are good motors with timing chain Just keep up on oil changes ! I had 2.0 ford escort I changed the timing belt 3 time every 90.000 and one water pump had over 255.000 miles on the trans went !
This PCV valve location is a very poor design (by Mazda...who designed this engine even though it's a Ford)…..too much labor for a replaceable item....
Bro you gotta explain wtf you’re doing so that people know what to do when they run into this problem. Like right now, I have no god damn clue what you’re doing cuz you’re not explaining shit
@@Shasedk I have only done on the 2.0 From what I can see they would both be the same. If your pcv valve is behind the manifold then I would say to try it.
@@Shasedk I have changed before by removing the Intake only as well. It's not that bad if you have to do it that way. I didn't remove any of the stuff these videos are saying to. Think I only removed the oil dip stick and couple vacuum lines from there mounts.
Very good method of diagnosis and very careful /assembly and disassembly. Thanks !
Thanks, 2 focus, both have had this problem.
Los ingenieros de Ford tenían que colocar la dichosa valvula PCV en un lugar con fácil acceso ,demasiado trabajo para llegar a ella
Thanks.! I just finish wife valve cover focus 2.0 very common the plug holes were filled with oil could not believe it was still running ! Now have vacuum leak, I'm thinking this is the problem pvc hose are very come problems
Can anyone explain how I release the hose he disconnects at the 48 sec mark?
I think this is my problem in my fiesta st150 has like a blowing woohhhing noise when you rub it and sounds like its in the inlet manifold
Thanks
Is of same on 06 ford fusion sr
Why is there Oil in the air filter and the reason pvc is organized for the Ford feista mk6 one.4
exactly how long did it took u to do this kind of job I need to change the pcv on my 07 Ford focus I'm pretty sure it hasn't been change and it has 185000 miles on it
I did it on my 05 a couple of weeks ago. Did the entire job in a Sunday afternoon. Some of the steps done here aren't necessary though. This is all I did:
1) Remove air box assembly
2) Remove throttle body, disconnect TB sensor & throttle cable
3) Disconnect IAC valve sensor, Intake Runner Control Sensor, & MAP sensor
4) Unbolt fuel rail, but do not remove; you only need it to move a little towards the firewall to get the intake manifold out
5) Unbolt intake manifold. There are 8 bolts. The two trickiest ones are one in the middle (a slot is cut out of the manifold at the front to fit a socket through) and a hidden bolt underneath the neck where the throttle body mounts. It's not visible, so you'll have to feel around for it.
6) Unbolt the oil dipstick - you'll need a torx bit. Why Ford used a torx bolt for this one thing? I don't know.
7) Don't forget the bottom bolt for the Intake Manifold - you'll have to access it from under the car; it's at the bottom near the oil pan.
*TIP FOR BOLT REMOVAL:* Get a telescoping magnet from your local auto parts store. I unscrewed the bolts until they were loose, then came in from the top with my magnet and removed the bolts that way. You don't drop them into the engine bay this way. Also, when reinstalling, attach the magnet to the bolt shaft and use the magnet to slip the bolt into it's bolt hole, then feed your socket/extension in to tighten it. Reinstallation was actually easier than removal this way.
You'll have to wiggle the manifold some to get it out; it's a tight squeeze. Eventually, you can lift it out and tip it over to the right where you can easily access the PCV vacuum hose. Unclamp hose, replace, then start fitting the intake manifold back into position. Be sure to clean the mating surface on the cylinder head and check that no debris fell into the valve chambers. Also, when moving the manifold back into position, make sure the PCV hose doesn't crimp or twist. I had to re-orient mine a couple of times before it fit properly. Finally, be sure to tighten down the manifold bolts evenly; don't tighten one at a time, as this will make mounting impossible!
After the manifold is back in place, everything else is the reverse of the removal.
TBH, this was a utterly stupid design idea. The reason the hose fails so commonly on these engines is because it's routed right next to a coolant hose, which gets extremely hot. The vacuum hose is not durable enough to survive repeated expansion/contraction due to extreme heat.
@@sixstanger00 where did you get the parts from? I'm searching for pvc valve and hose for my 2007 focus and can't seem to find them
@@dmusk Just need a replacement length of vacuum hose. I think I got some at my local auto parts store. However, RockAuto may sell the pre-formed piece.
I will be doing this job this week end on my wife car. worked on cars all my life and ford also seem to screw around with most common parts that fail and place them in hard to get to spots! Why they ever put the alternator almost on top of the exhaust manifold & then have No trap door like Toyota does for fuel pumps ! @@sixstanger00
I've undone all of these bolts yet it still won't come free
Can a vacuum leak make a Ford Transit 2.2 stall?
Mine is doing that did a smoke test and it is leaking at manifold to head intake think i am going to use some silicone on the head.
@@55chevytruck It turned out had to change timing chain and everithing around it. After that it does not stall.
@@mgtowstanleyzoltanov9808 Thanks for the tip, Had to do that on my f150 not a fun job. Did a smoke test and intake was leaking so took off and the gaskets "new" looked fine so used copper permatex and so far it seems running better. Chain may be next. how did you diagnose that was your problem?
@@55chevytruck By trial and error. I cleaned the injectors myself but put out and in was about a 100 to a Bulgarian mechanic friend. Next was EGR valve. 600 pounds another Bulgarian at Scotland. Next smoke test. Next computer diagnostic and changing all the fuses. I did this to a friend around 500 pounds. And so on for 2 years until it was simply time to change the timing chain :)
what was that hose for at 0:54?
This is a smoke machine. It pushes smoke in the system so you can see where the smoke exits the system and you can find leaks.
Whole different ball game on the V-6. Can't even see Bank 1.
Was the car scanned for a code? If so what was the code?
The code should be p0171. It's system too lean bank 1
Can you tell me the symptoms of the car with that pipe split as Im sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere and everything else checks out fine.
SURGING IDLE, POOR FUEL ECONOMY & LOSS OF POWER. MAY OR MAY NOT TRIGGER CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IF LIGHT ILLUMINATES AND THE CODE RELATES TO A EVAP ERROR OR OXYGEN SENSOR FAILURE THEN MOST LIKELY YOU HAVE A VACUUM LEAK.
@@caseyjones3684 my revs do surge a little when the engine is warm, but it does it worse when the engine is cold especially when changing gear (when revs drops it bounces back up at about 500rpm).
Power seems to have a mind if its own, sometimes it's there and sometimes not.
I've had new O2 sensors and a new TMAP sensor fitted but no change really. Checked all vacuum pipes for leaks and they are ok.
@@dangerousdave74 check engine light on? Several things could cause idle fluctuation. One of which could be a Vacuum leak. Provide me the year your Escape is & which engine option is it equipped with?
@@caseyjones3684 it a 2010 Ford Focus CC 2.0 petrol.
There is no engine lights on but I have noticed that when accelerating hard there is a loud intake roar but not a lot of power if that helps.
@@dangerousdave74 start checking vacuum lines, especially the PCV vacuum line. I bet you will find one or two of them partially collapsed while engine is running. If you do notice deteriorated, collapsing vacuum hose replace them right away. A good indication of a deteriated line, is when you touch it it will feel rough & most likely will leave black/gray residue on your hand that will not be real easy to wipe off.
If your lines check ok & you hear no audible hissing or air leaks. Turn off your car, remove the bonnet from on top of your throttle body.Inspect your throttle plate both sides.If the plate has a gold tint to it with minimal blackened portions reinstall you bonnet. If your plate has alot of black moist looking finish, grab a can of 2 plus 2 or carb cleaner. Thoroughly clean the plate until that residue is removed. Be careful not to over spray a lot of cleaner into the throttle body.
You can also try this. Disconnect ONLY your negative battery terminal, be certain to isolate the battery ground cable from the battery's ground post you can use a shop rag for this. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THEY DO NOT TOUCH ONE ANOTHER WHEN DISCONNECTED.
Take a wire 12 gauge and or higher. "JUMPER WIRE" Put one end of the wire onto the positive battery post which is still connected to the vehicle wiring harness & then other end onto the disconnected battery GROUND WIRE NOT THE GROUND POST ON THE BATTERY god forbid.
Let it sit for approx 5 mins. This will reset the PCM & drain its compacitors. Remove your jumper wire, then reconnect your Battery Ground Wire. Start the Car & let idle for 2-5 mins, This is the procedure for the PCM to relearn the idle circuit & throttle positioning.
Question are the engine reliable
2005 and up are good motors with timing chain Just keep up on oil changes ! I had 2.0 ford escort I changed the timing belt 3 time every 90.000 and one water pump had over 255.000 miles on the trans went !
This PCV valve location is a very poor design (by Mazda...who designed this engine even though it's a Ford)…..too much labor for a replaceable item....
Bro you gotta explain wtf you’re doing so that people know what to do when they run into this problem. Like right now, I have no god damn clue what you’re doing cuz you’re not explaining shit
🤣🤣🤣
Do from underneath the car. You should only remove the starter. It saves a lot of time.
Does that apply to this engine? This is the Duratec HE.
@@Shasedk I have only done on the 2.0
From what I can see they would both be the same. If your pcv valve is behind the manifold then I would say to try it.
@@kn6012 Ok. Mine is the 1.8. But it looks the same. Will give it a go from underneath, when I get my hose in a few days.
@@Shasedk I have changed before by removing the Intake only as well. It's not that bad if you have to do it that way. I didn't remove any of the stuff these videos are saying to. Think I only removed the oil dip stick and couple vacuum lines from there mounts.
@@kn6012 That is good to know. I will let you know how it goes.
NO sounds????
What the helllllll ig going on😆
Replacement of the small hose with crack /slit.
xie xie
Thank you Ford for designing this SHIT piece of engine compartment.
Hi guys. What is the exact name of this pipe? I have the same problem with my Volvo S40 2005.
Pcv valve