How to: Fix swirl flaps & save your engine (Ford Duratec HE, Mondeo/Focus/et al)

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  • čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
  • ...or, the Swirl Flaps of Death! Early Duratec HE motors had problematic tumble flaps which tended to fail and dump pieces of their metal rod into the engine's intake ports, leading to disaster. Later versions of the manifold improved the design but they still wear and fail, and any presence of port flaps is a risk that all owners should understand.
    As outlined in the video, you have two extremes to choose between:
    1) Renew the entire inlet manifold with a replacement from Ford. You need to make sure to get the final design iteration, and you also need to upgrade the PCV components and oil separator as their design changed too.
    2) Delete the flaps completely by removing them and their rod, and sealing up the actuator hole. This permanently eliminates failure risk at the expense of losing the flaps' benefits (small increase in fuel usage and emissions).
    Shown in the video is a 3rd compromise option which may be possible if your rod is not too badly worn:
    3) Replace any worn flaps, flip bushings and rod 180 degrees to shift wear points (can only be done once), and reinspect in the future. Ford do not sell the rod as a part, and the bushings are stupidly overpriced, so inability to reuse these mandates option #1.
    Amazon link for the flap assemblies (x4): amzn.to/2d3dawe
    Part # for the bushings for the record: Ford 1317278 (x2)
    If you need to replace the manifold gaskets, the part # (individual, you need four) is Ford 1119284 ...
    Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | UK: amzn.to/2cpztel
    ... and the EGR inlet seal # is Ford 1119833.
    J-B Weld (or other epoxy) can be used to seal up the rod hole if deleting...
    Amazon US: amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: amzn.to/2woHtUC
    Removing the intake manifold: • How to: Remove intake ...
    (Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated!)
    References & credits ~
    Early yellow flap assemblies: Gamble, post #144 bit.ly/2cfoyzn
    The Mondeo manifold saga: Robert Jenkins, www.robertjenkins.co.uk/mondeo/
    Flaps vibration inside manifold: CamaroZ22M, • Insugsspjäll Ford Mond...
  • Auta a dopravní prostředky

Komentáře • 426

  • @CraigsDIY
    @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +10

    Amazon links to relevant products (from the description):
    Flap assemblies (x4) - amzn.to/2d3dawe
    Manifold gasket - Amazon US: amzn.to/2bV8sLi | Amazon UK: amzn.to/2cpztel
    J-B Weld epoxy - Amazon US: amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: amzn.to/2woHtUC

    • @kpo42641
      @kpo42641 Před 5 lety

      Hello Craig, If you have it could you post the actual Ford part number for the flap assemblies? The part on the link does not have the Ford P/N. I tried to capture it from the video but want to be sure.Thanks KPO.

    • @nigelb1428
      @nigelb1428 Před 3 lety

      @@kpo42641 I think it's either 1317276 or 1S7G9Y428AA

    • @johnnyherring4825
      @johnnyherring4825 Před 3 lety

      What yr did they stop using tbese

    • @zaluq
      @zaluq Před 15 dny

      The flaps , are they a sold pr piece or sold as a set of 4 ?

  • @blemeer1
    @blemeer1 Před 4 lety +8

    All your videos are extremely well made, the filming and audio is top notch. Thanks for helping. I’ve done 3 repairs with your videos.

  • @manufacturingdefect1287
    @manufacturingdefect1287 Před 4 lety +38

    Your content and presentation is on a whole new level. One of the best content creators in my opinion

  • @laceykelly3881
    @laceykelly3881 Před 6 lety +10

    Sir, you've set the bar high with this video I'm very grateful and equally impressed bravo.

  • @MattiaManciniAlunno
    @MattiaManciniAlunno Před 3 lety +3

    I would like just tell A BIG THANK YOU because you spend so much time creating a such amazing video helping others. Really appreciate it.

  • @The-Advent-Sabre
    @The-Advent-Sabre Před 3 lety +1

    Bought a Focus CC last weekend as of the date stamp of my comment... Had it 3 days. Engine light comes on. P2008 faulty code. Intake solenoids were shot. Bought new ones. Solved.
    However..... I stubbled onto this video when I was investigating the solenoid issue. And boy I'm glad I did. You just saved me a few hundred pounds.
    Out of curiosity I decided to take a look at the intake manifold. (I had the bonnet open for the solenoids so hey) I think I was very lucky... 2 out of the four flaps were about to fail catastrophically!! Entirely new manifold is on its way.
    Thank you.

  • @balintmihalyfi8962
    @balintmihalyfi8962 Před 6 lety +4

    Hi! I did the replacement job at the weekend.
    - My Mondeo MK3 had about original 183.000 km (2005 2.0 Petrol)
    - I could hear only a light noise, but the problem was there.
    - The rod and other parts were undamaged so I've replaced only the 4 flaps. (The flap shafts were damaged)
    - There was no second screw on my Oil pipe bracket. Removal was not necessary.
    As a hobby mechanic the whole process took about hard 10 hours! The intake manifold removal is a huge job! (I have renewed all cable clips etc.)
    Now the engine is quiter, there is no diesel sound.
    In my opinion this problems comes after 200.000+ km .
    Thank you very much the video and the instructions!

  • @TexasRigged
    @TexasRigged Před 5 lety +2

    Thank you so much for making this video. I've noticed this exact noise from my motor for quite a long time and you have supplied me with some valuable information.

  • @remonm990
    @remonm990 Před 4 měsíci +2

    Used this vid to remove the flaps. Engine runs great! Excellent instructions, thanks mate!

  • @Gargoilunit
    @Gargoilunit Před rokem +1

    Thank you so much for this video I recently replaced the pcv valve on a Mazda 5 hoping to reduce the oil consumption and this video with the manifold replacement video was a godsend. The reason why this video was so important is because I removed the swirl flap actuator during removal of the manifold. I then put it back with the swirl flaps closed and thought nothing of it but looking at these videos again I wondered if I had the rod 90 degrees out and the flaps should be open.. Sure enough it was and the actuator wasn't doing anything. Luckily only driven the car a few miles before my conscience got the better of me. Luckily you can remove the actuator whilst the manifold is still on the car.
    I checked my swirl flaps and they all seemed to be in good condition with minimal movement so I've left them in. Time will tell if that was a good decision or not! Car is a 2010 Mazda 5 with 100k miles on it so about 160k Kms.
    Thanks again for these videos 🙏

  • @davidbuchanan3374
    @davidbuchanan3374 Před 6 lety +10

    I replaced the thermostat in my 2005 Duratec 2.0 16valve and while at it i removed all the swirl flaps in the manifold with no issues to the running of the engine. It runs perfect. So saved myself a few quid.. I was told to do this by a ford mechanic and he was rite.. Took 3hrs start to finish. Was easier to remove the radiator and that gave full access to everything. Great video..

  • @DeepSouthernTX
    @DeepSouthernTX Před rokem +3

    Excellent content. Will definitely consider this reconditioning process if my manifold is worn-out

  • @mrgodbeer8463
    @mrgodbeer8463 Před 4 lety +11

    Thank you for posting these videos really helped me, was a tough job but got it done in the end I went for just removing the flaps entirely 👍

  • @Fernbach4
    @Fernbach4 Před 4 lety +1

    Excellent video. Very Informational and I've already had my own experience with this issue/taken my intake off multiple times. Thank you

  • @RSGAEL
    @RSGAEL Před 6 lety +3

    It happened to my co-workers car. Local Ford dealer tried to chrage $450 for doing manifold replacement. Very informative video. Great tutorials. Thanks.

  • @vladimirbacko907
    @vladimirbacko907 Před 3 lety +5

    Man you are genius, you saved my brain.I was going to be insane cause of this sound, i thought that the problem was timing chain or lifters but you resolved my problem! Thanky you so much! We are talking about mazda 2

    • @leonbradshaw127
      @leonbradshaw127 Před 3 lety

      I have the same issue with my ST150 fiesta

    • @poosh6529
      @poosh6529 Před 2 lety

      @@leonbradshaw127 I've been reading that specifically the ST150 doesn't have the swirl flaps, seems to be the exception. I'm not sure though, do you know for sure?

  • @williamsmith6063
    @williamsmith6063 Před 4 lety +2

    Excellent video and explanation of the flap issue!

  • @paulynotshore7006
    @paulynotshore7006 Před rokem +1

    Well mate! Here in Canada they dont sell the flaps separtly, i have to buy the hole shebang and the pcv valve comes with the hose and the box. Nice clear to the point video. Also the one for removing the intake manifold. Thanks.

  • @gregtaylor5980
    @gregtaylor5980 Před 3 lety +1

    Thanks for the video. Yesterday I removed the swirl flaps on my 2.0 ltr focus but it did not have the metal carrier guides, which I assume is the latest manifold version? However the swirl flaps had excessive movement so they were taken out. The rod appears to be in good condition without wear, which I will keep hold of. I also replaced the psv hose (£43!) which was split very badly when I consider its only covered 76k.The psv valve was also replaced. During the first road test it doesn't rev independently when stationary and is smooth when changing gear as the throttle pick up used to cause slight knocking due to pick up lag. Just to mention on the focus it appears a little tighter when removing the manifold as I found tilting it was my only hope. All in took over 5hrs as removal was hard especially the centre bolt. Thanks again for the clear instructions and the tip on taping the socket to the bolts on reassembly. Cheers

  • @luceroguayara9554
    @luceroguayara9554 Před rokem +1

    Beautiful explanation how a flap or runner work in a intake manifold .... thanks 🙏🙏🙏

  • @petarpetkovic9541
    @petarpetkovic9541 Před 3 lety +3

    One of the best videos on youtube!

  • @Megas1959
    @Megas1959 Před 5 lety +2

    Thanks for the great videos. I fix my Bad Flaps today on my 2003 Mondeo.
    I remove them and the car runs great. Thx again Craig! :)
    BR/ Micke from sweden.

    • @stickytarmacs
      @stickytarmacs Před 4 lety

      Hello i did this and now my car wont stay on it starts and dies?

    • @Suraniset
      @Suraniset Před 4 lety +1

      @@stickytarmacs you have to seal the holes

  • @voytjse
    @voytjse Před 6 lety +3

    Just did the pcv job on my Volvo S40 1.8 from 2005 which has the same engine. I inspected the flaps and found that there were no bushings and not much wear.
    Vehicle has 150.000 km and i have only owned it for 2 years so i don't know if someone has done the changed the flaps, though i doubt it very much.
    Great video btw, very helpful.

  • @Andy77337
    @Andy77337 Před 5 lety +2

    Just changed the whole intake manifold on my 2008 focus 2.0 titanium (UK) for one out of a fiesta st150 runs much better thanks, virtually a straight swap but without the swirl flaps and fitted a new PCV valve & roose motorsport PCV hose thanks for posting these videos Craig they're really helpful 😀👍🏻

  • @bazz6670
    @bazz6670 Před 3 lety +1

    Great video, very informative. Everything I needed to know. Thanks for posting.

  • @scottschuette74
    @scottschuette74 Před rokem

    Thank you for the great detailed video! I think my best option is to deflap and call it good. My car is a Mercury Milan and has over 275k miles on it.

  • @PeeterPuncher
    @PeeterPuncher Před 6 lety

    Years ago I had this problem with my duratec 2.0 focus...I bought an intake manifold for an Escape 2.3L application. The escape manifold don't have flaps. Still mounted the solenoids and actuator but just didn't hook up the linkage as there was none. Worked fine for me for 100k miles.

  • @davidburman451
    @davidburman451 Před 5 lety +5

    Hi very nicely done video! We have an 07 Focus for 11 years and it has been amazing. The big dirty secret is to do ALL your own work. This means proper tools learning as much as you can and getting down and dirty. Oil changes are a must with high quality oil and filter.
    We just began to notice this clicking down at the end of the intake. Beyond a doubt this is what it is. I plan to inspect shortly and probably just remove the flaps.
    Great work!

  • @totalprofitlife6632
    @totalprofitlife6632 Před rokem +1

    thank you so very much sir you gave me hope of life I have this very issue on my neck at the moment and cannot source the intake used or new to save my life the wear on it is significant and something needs to be done immediately... I will look into your links >>Good narrating skills by the way....

  • @gibboj
    @gibboj Před 7 lety +15

    hi watched a couple of your vids, and there all very professional and well explained .this helps us all out , keep up the good work .atb JOHN

  • @petersarlai2091
    @petersarlai2091 Před 7 lety +2

    Superb video! Thanks!

  • @mikeannielasiter5860
    @mikeannielasiter5860 Před 7 lety +2

    very good job. thanks for sharing!

  • @jw18xxx
    @jw18xxx Před 5 lety +3

    You sir have probably the best user content quality I've seen on a diy video.... Ever!
    Just bought an 07 focus 2.0 duratec with 55000 miles and am really worried about these flaps.
    My car already has a pcv failure which led me to your videos.
    I also have two bad pulleys and a stuck thermostat or bad coolant temp sensor. I'm not sure because the car will warm up to temp but takes a a little. However once it warms up it seems to pick when it wants to open the t stat and usually when I'm putting around town. It's random as sometimes heat is fine.
    So I'm pulling the manifold and doing a tstat while I'm there doing pcv.
    Contemplating deleting the plates but worried about if I fill the holes with epoxy, that it might come out or I'll get a check engine light as I need emissions.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 5 lety +1

      I would just inspect the flaps (the rod particularly, as shown). Decide what to do based on their condition, if they're fine then leave them, maybe end-for-end the rod like me. If you do remove them I doubt you'll get a CEL, so long as you put the actuator and its connection back with nothing to do, the effect of the flaps appears to be subtle.
      Almost certainly tstat failed, so long as temp sensor giving sensible readings (ambient temp when cold, and up) it's probably fine.

  • @jacobhodges7374
    @jacobhodges7374 Před 5 lety +1

    Inciteful video! Thank you very much.

  • @hunterlockemy1078
    @hunterlockemy1078 Před 2 lety +1

    05' Mazda Tribute 2.3. ran 30k miles with it no problems. Went to 9 shops nobody could figure out until a guy who a focus noticed the sound immediately. Fixing tomorrow

  • @PaulWilliamssexy
    @PaulWilliamssexy Před 5 lety +1

    Very good detailed video thankyou very helpful

  • @user-jx1dg2kp6c
    @user-jx1dg2kp6c Před 2 měsíci +1

    Superb work

  • @haxino
    @haxino Před 2 měsíci +1

    Dude great video and explanation

  • @fayschneider503
    @fayschneider503 Před 5 lety +1

    Excellent presentation.

  • @bnetolldnataman
    @bnetolldnataman Před 3 lety +1

    Nice work mate 👍👍

  • @coachwhitford7315
    @coachwhitford7315 Před 5 lety +2

    I did a simple vacuum mod to a Ford Fusion intake w/o intake runners and installed, easier and works great.

    • @LiilTyweezy
      @LiilTyweezy Před 4 lety

      What do you mean simple vacuum mod? Did you just remove the intake runners and did you still plug up the rubber motor?

  • @yairf
    @yairf Před 7 lety +3

    Tremendous stuff !
    I have a 2010 Focus Mk2 with 2.0L Duratec engine. It seems like Ford gave up the flaps, and placed a "Runner Control Valve" which seems to do the same job, and is very easy to replace (Ford #BS7E-9J559-AA).

    • @roycai8895
      @roycai8895 Před 3 měsíci

      I thought the valves controls the flaps ?
      I just bought the valves because I have the P2008 code on my 2007 ford focus, but now I am thinking of de-flaping it which would make the valve pointless. (I guess the good thing is it'll shut off the check engine light)

  • @kpo42641
    @kpo42641 Před 5 lety +5

    Hello Craig, just watched your Duratec manifold R&R video and now this one on fixing the swirl flaps. Interesting suggestion to just not re-install the flaps due to cost and take the little fuel economy hit. I may consider that after inspection once the manifold is removed. I mentioned before you seem to have good video capture and editing abilities, it really makes for a high production value, especially with the post recorded voice over. I think I'm going to try that also on my next repair job.
    Thanks, KPO

    • @darylkinnett675
      @darylkinnett675 Před 4 lety +1

      How did your manifold turn out removing the flaps? Was going to get started on this myself over the weekend. Thanks for any information.

    • @joshuamackay7581
      @joshuamackay7581 Před 4 lety +1

      Kris Lynette I’m currently doing the delete method on my 2002 Mondeo 2.0 Duratec HE as my flaps are around 5x as bad of movement as this video after inspection tonight. It has taken me 3 months to get around to it as I suspected flaps to be the cause and had to weigh up options before jumping the gun. Will update you tomorrow once car is together and another update after a week or so with a flap delete. Note I’m not that experienced with cars and the removal task alone took nearly 6 hours with several 1/4 socket extensions written off as the 3/4 set doesn’t fit where bolts are

    • @joshuamackay7581
      @joshuamackay7581 Před 4 lety +1

      Okay, so I finished it earlier on today, the rod was an absolute prick to remove! And there oddly was only a plastic casing with all this ground up looking plastic in centre between inlets. I had to clean all of it down including between inlets were rod was due to how worn it was for the epoxy to grip. I filled every hole the rod went through and left the agitator on attached to side but left the white clip piece out as well so no cel code was thrown either. Initial test drive so far so much more responsive, picks up speed faster. I have noticed a slight delay or something along those lines if giving gas backing of n full gas straight away. Will see what it’s like for the next few days but seems to be running beautiful. Have not noticed a decrease in fuel consumption yet but will be able to tell later on down the line. Give it a go if you haven’t already. Also massive thanks to this channel. Has helped me through my journey with alot of swearing i got there in the end lol

  • @ThEhArDmEnPaTh
    @ThEhArDmEnPaTh Před 3 lety +1

    Very good video. Too late for me but..thanks 4 your work.

  • @djuyoguna3729
    @djuyoguna3729 Před 2 lety +1

    Very usefull. Thank you man!!👍👍👍

  • @DavidB445
    @DavidB445 Před 7 lety +9

    Another great video. I removed mine completely as taking the manifold off was hard enough, I wasn't doing it twice lol.
    Never noticed a change in fuel consumption or running of the engine. As you said, some report a slight increase in consumption and some even say there's reduced power/torque in the lower rpm but I didn't really notice anything.

    • @RDCST
      @RDCST Před 7 lety

      Did you get any DTC failure code?

    • @DavidB445
      @DavidB445 Před 7 lety +3

      No, never had a problem with it done. Just removed the flaps, sealed up the holes left and bolted it back on.

    • @RDCST
      @RDCST Před 7 lety

      Thanks for your answer.

    • @alanclifton4268
      @alanclifton4268 Před 6 lety +1

      What did you use to seal them up? I need to do this later so any info is appreciated.

    • @Andy77337
      @Andy77337 Před 6 lety

      The st150 version didn't have swirl flaps out the factory so I think removing is probably the best way,
      another great video though shows exactly how to make it like new again

  • @graemepaterson4458
    @graemepaterson4458 Před 7 lety +1

    Amazing videos, carefully done with the right amount of detail. These videos are real life savers (and money savers) for me.
    How did the car run afterwards? how much did the replacent flaps cost?
    All the best

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +2

      It ran no differently, as you can see in the video my flaps were a little loose and would have been vibrating, but working fine and no reason to think they would affect performance. It is just about dealing with the danger of them failing and killing the engine.

  • @unregistredhypercam
    @unregistredhypercam Před 5 lety +1

    My car had 70,000 miles on it and the flaps were not worn at all, they still fit tightly in the housings.
    I removed them anyway, the car runs just as well as it used to, maybe even slightly better. I also installed an oil catch can because the oil seperator on these cars suck too much oil into the inlet for my liking. Might be why the flaps had so little wear in my case.

  • @onlycodered
    @onlycodered Před 6 lety +2

    Thank you very much for this! My sister's 2005 Focus has some really loud flaps and I'm considering doing this fix. Appreciate the insight!

    • @sdbw1990
      @sdbw1990 Před 5 lety

      Did you end up doing this? I have an 05. Focus and was thinking about doing it

    • @chrisl2090
      @chrisl2090 Před rokem

      @@sdbw1990 going to take this on next weekend It looks like... my intake flaps are super loud sounds like a diesel and low rpms. Every time I drive it now it makes me nervous after seeing these catastrophic failures.

    • @sdbw1990
      @sdbw1990 Před rokem +1

      @@chrisl2090 I did this a little while ago. Went pretty good. I used jb weld to fill in the holes between cylinders. Car still running well years later!

    • @chrisl2090
      @chrisl2090 Před rokem

      @@sdbw1990 I appreciate the reply. I have 248k miles on this 05 and I dont think the flaps have ever been looked at. Looking forward to a nice clean and none clattered idle..

  • @LordYisusCraist
    @LordYisusCraist Před 11 měsíci

    great job, regards from ARG

  • @dudefunk
    @dudefunk Před 5 lety

    Thank you for this video. Pardon my question: is this also applicable for a 2009 Mk2 (Mk2.5) gas Duratec HE engine? Do they have the same assembly? Took me forever to get a video that somehow might be related to the ticking sound (identified by our mechanic as "normal for injectors"). Thanks again!

  • @judgestacker9472
    @judgestacker9472 Před 7 lety +2

    Same engine different country. I also removed my flaps with zero problems. All of my modifications have actually gotten me and extra 2mpg. I removed the flaps and rod but replaced the actuator so that there is no check engine light and no botched vacuum leaks. I have also eliminated the EGR valve, installed an intake kit and an aluminum throttle body. I am going to soon install the manifold off of the 2.3L SUV that has runner control and use the swirl flap circuit to control it. This will give me dual length runner and that is far more effective for power and fuel economy than the swirl flaps.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety

      Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Would like to see more about upgrading to the 2.3 L manifold and converting the IMRC's to the old control. Won't you need a re-map?

    • @judgestacker9472
      @judgestacker9472 Před 7 lety +1

      You will not need to remap as in change the MAP sensor arc. When I install it I will use the control circuit of the old tumble flaps to operate the IMRC. Once I get a tuner, the one I am going to get supports altering how that circuit functions and I can set the RPMs that the IMRC changes at. I want to see how it will operate on a stock tune though before I change it. I'll keep you updated.

    • @hardyXXL
      @hardyXXL Před 7 lety

      Can you give us some more info about the actuator? What did you replace it with in order to avoid the CEL. I've been thinking of removing the flaps myself, but I wouldn't want to have a CEL always on.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +1

      hardyXXL - he means he put the actuator back in situ, so as to avoid a CEL. It won't do any harm.

    • @hardyXXL
      @hardyXXL Před 7 lety +1

      Oh gotcha, thanks for clarifying it! I'm gonna give that a try.

  • @spiffs6320
    @spiffs6320 Před 5 lety +1

    A1 plus plus video So helpful Thanks so much

  • @axenz1
    @axenz1 Před 6 lety +2

    Nice job done :)

  • @jeffreygraham3364
    @jeffreygraham3364 Před 4 lety +1

    Thank you for this great video. I really appreciate the format of audio edited with video. Easy watch and a good use of my time.
    I do have an important question.about option 3 as I will be choosing this option.
    Will this trigger an engineer code?
    I live with in the metro area of PDX Oregon.
    We have emission test every 2 years and check engine lights will fail the vehicle.
    Does removing the glass create an engine code?

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 4 lety

      No. In theory the ECU should probably have a different map but in practice nobody reports any issues. It certainly won't effect emissions or set errors.

  • @Platinumtag
    @Platinumtag Před 2 měsíci +1

    Well this video give me all the info on how these flap work...so as for me in central america parts are expensive so i disable the the flap system and uplug the solenoid and tube....leaving all flap open....bc the electronic throttle control the system as a regular car....car run super smooth and lots torque is nice and i get a extra mpg...first it was bugging and starving for air especially when i slow down and accelerate....

  • @Cheordig
    @Cheordig Před rokem

    Great video. I have a 2009 SMax 2.0tdci. Is it likely to have flaps?

  • @VarGabi85
    @VarGabi85 Před 6 lety +1

    Thank You !

  • @kiwitrains
    @kiwitrains Před 4 lety +1

    Excellent thank you

  • @divljacina1
    @divljacina1 Před 3 lety

    Woooooop.....crazy person instaling them on again....

  • @gregmonaghan
    @gregmonaghan Před 7 lety +1

    Very nice vid.

  • @williamchristian2491
    @williamchristian2491 Před 4 lety +1

    I have a 2.0L 2005 ford focus and took the intake manifold off and removed the flaps of death. It's an arduous task with many sensors that don't want to come loose and none of them are the same! So each one has to be done differently. Most of them require pushing in the middle of the plastic electronic part and pulling, but not all. Like me, you will have to look at them and figure out how to release them. Ok, some hints on other things:
    1. Consider replacing the PCV valve and put in a new PCV hose. These are not cheap if you get the proper parts (mine cost $15 for the PCV valve and $28 for the hose). Normally you cut the PCV hose off to release the intake manifold and then replace it, because getting a pliers down to the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the PCV valve is an enormously difficult task. Just cut and replace. The PCV valve has a plastic clip holder that you must not break! If you do, you must buy the entire oil separator to get a new one and these were $33 on Ebay. To pry off the clip, you need to remove the oil separator which is held on by 8 bolts, two of which you must have an 8mm wrench to release and the other 6 you can use a ratchet and socket. Then use a small small screwdriver and try to pry the clip off - some people use a knife. Be careful! Clean the oil separator with brake clean. Then put the oil separator back. At this point, my suggestion is to connect the PCV hose on the bottom (hose clamp) but on the top- install the PCV valve on the PCV hose (hose clamp) and you must leave the plastic clip on the PCV valve then when you get the intake manifold on the car you can then just press the PCV valve on to the oil separator and then using the long rod that held the flaps of death just press down on the plastic clip to snap it on. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to put the PCV hose on the PCV valve by using a pliers on the hose clamp with such limited space.
    2. Clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. You need an electronics parts cleaner for this - I used CRC Electronics Part Cleaner (wal-mart). The MAP sensor is located near the bottom of the intake manifold, and is held on with a 20 Star screw. So do it while off the vehicle. czcams.com/video/icgaLiEoohc/video.html
    3. While the intake manifold is off the car, clean the MAF sensor with a special MAF cleaner. The MAF requires special care, so handle it such. It's held on by two 20 star screws. czcams.com/video/U9PT8ZN3TXI/video.html
    4. Clean the throttle body - and there is a special cleaner for this also. Wal-Mart has the MAF and Throttle body cleaner in one package in their auto parts.
    5. Use poster putty or some other stuff that will seal the plug hole where that square rod was.
    6. Replace all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold while off the car. So much easier!
    7. Clean all the sensor connectors with the electronics part cleaner.
    8. Replace the manifold gaskets with new ones cause you don't want a leak there!
    9. The manifold intake runner control (MIRC) is basically useless at this point, but the electronics need it. The control has a vacuum hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold - make sure you replace this. The second hose goes goes to the vacuum actuator that controlled the flaps of death. What I did was connect this hose to the plug on the right side of the MIRC, because that hose now serves no purpose, neither does the actuator.
    10. Use a torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts at 13 ft lbs. All other bolts or screws snug.
    11. You need to reset you electronics to get the car to work right. After doing all this work my car just died - not holding an idle! Disconnect the battery. Reconnect. Turn on ignition switch (not to start!, just to run) and let it sit for about 30-45 seconds then turn off. Try starting. It took me some time and feathering the throttle to get it to run, but then bingo, the computer saw the changes and fixed itself and the car's idle was ok.

    • @williamchristian2491
      @williamchristian2491 Před 4 lety

      Nope. Don't use poster putty. Use SteelStick or other epoxy blend that works to putty but drys hard. Make sure you leave a space for the actuator.

  • @marcobecker906
    @marcobecker906 Před 3 lety +1

    who, thats a good video!!!!! thanks.

  • @RUchanel
    @RUchanel Před 7 lety +4

    Спасибо!

  • @ricardorezendiz1993
    @ricardorezendiz1993 Před 2 lety

    Hola , exelentes videos , tengo un Mondeo 2005 2.0 y me han ayudado mucho, solo que tengo que esperar a traducir, hay alguna manera que se puedan ver los subtítulos

  • @larrylackey2083
    @larrylackey2083 Před 6 lety +2

    loved your video! we just bought a 2010 ford focus and found out the actuator isnt attached to the car, the previous owner took the rod out and the flaps. do you know we can eliminate the p2004 code by attaching an actuator and attaching the vacuum hose to it, or splice the vacuum hose to another vacuum line?
    you would be doing us a great service if you happen to know the answer to this question, thanks in advance!

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 6 lety

      I think it's sufficient to just connect the electronics up, if the PCM sees the right electrical circuit it should be happy, it's not sophisticated enough to actually know what's happening. If the existing hose is available you could use it and just leave the actuator working nothing, on that note check the old mod sealed up the hose nipple on the manifold.

  • @shanefrank3281
    @shanefrank3281 Před 3 lety

    Hello Craig, great video. I removed the intake on my Ford vehicle and the flaps and rod are in really good shape. However for some reason I only had the bushing between #1 and #2. I had no bushing between #3 and #4. Have you ever heard of the bushing only being on 1 side? Since mine appears to be missing a bushing, I am considering removing the flaps. You mention removing the flaps and rod and then sealing the end where the actuator is. Wouldn't the actuator arm (white plastic piece) still seal this up against the green rubber seal just as it did when the metal rod was in place? Also, do you think having holes between each runner (where the rod once passed) would cause any issues?

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 3 lety +1

      Maybe I never experimented with it, the rod inserts into it so its absence might cause issues? And there's no need for it once internals removed. You could seal the internal holes up too for the sake of perfectionism but I doubt they'd make any measurable difference to anything, especially in the context of the flaps for which the engine's tuned now being gone.

  • @christianolsson834
    @christianolsson834 Před 7 lety +18

    I removed the flaps completely and it runs just fine even after 510000 km.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +1

      510,000 km? Good effort... what else (major) have you had to replace/fix?

    • @christianolsson834
      @christianolsson834 Před 7 lety +5

      nothing on the engine. But new shocks after 350000, new dual mass flywheel after 300000, and the usual bits like brakes etc that all cars go thru. High quality long life car that doesnt necessarily "feels" so. Mine is an ex Danish police car, there´s something done to the engine, faster than the V6 version anyway. One interesting thing is that the multilink back suspension seems to last forever though. Never done anything to tht suspension in all years. And we live on the countryside...

    • @RayRay-ic4fl
      @RayRay-ic4fl Před 4 lety

      Hello, this comment was awhile back but still relevant;
      What do you do with the solenoid that attaches to the intake manifold that engages the actuator? Did it throw off a CEL code removing it?

    • @joshuamackay7581
      @joshuamackay7581 Před 4 lety

      Ray Loyst i left it attached so I didn’t have any code thrown. Just removed flaps and rod plus the piece of plastic that goes from arm to rod end

    • @billiardball9650
      @billiardball9650 Před 4 lety +1

      hello did you have to seal up every hole in each cylender or just the one that meets the acuater

  • @deantaylor5677
    @deantaylor5677 Před 7 lety +4

    Excellent videos. I am the the US yet many things cross to my 2006 Focus ST with the 2.3l duratec. I just removed the manifold and have removed the rod and flaps. On another CZcams video the guy fills the holes between the runners with epoxy. Is this necessary?

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +1

      Not necessary to fill the holes. But it wouldn't hurt.

  • @Cusers
    @Cusers Před rokem

    very nice video i have mazda 3 2008 with 230 000km do you think is time to remplace that or my car do not have problem in 2008 ?

  • @Trevor-Ca
    @Trevor-Ca Před 8 měsíci

    How do I know that my focus needs this service? Are there any signs, noises or symptoms? I had thought about the PCV valve, just putting a filter on it without connecting it to the manifold, I don't know if it's a good idea.

  • @eagle_gr
    @eagle_gr Před rokem +1

    300.000kms mk4 petrol 2.0 Duratec Mondeo owner here . I am experiencing elevated IATs when not in WOT, sometimes elevating up to 70-90c !! No strange sound from the manifold though, is there any chance stuck flaps could be an issue ?

  •  Před 3 lety +2

    My 2004 Focus with 2.3 PZEV engine has two vacuum tubes and two IMRC solenoids. But otherwise the manifold looks very similar. I'm sure it's a different Ford part number though.

  • @RobK0304
    @RobK0304 Před 3 lety

    My 1.8 Mondeo from 2003 already has 241k km on it. What's your advice? Count my loses if the manifold flaps give in? I don't drive much with it

  • @starlaraxan
    @starlaraxan Před rokem +1

    i got an 03 mondy with 350,000+ km on the clock, apparently engine was replaced or repaired at around 180, any scratch i get on the car i just cover up with spraypaint of a similar color, hoping to not need to replace anything other than the gearbox again any time soon so im thinking a good ol delete would be best

  • @fherdzbalite16
    @fherdzbalite16 Před 2 lety

    hello.. I have the same issue in my flaffer and need to replace.. may i know where can I buy those new flaffer that you put.. I have Ford Focus hatchback 2.OL 2007.. thanks

  • @uhmeizuhngralphf0549
    @uhmeizuhngralphf0549 Před 4 lety +2

    What happen if you run the car without the flaps and keep the actuator so you don't get actuator code

  • @bluesummersky6936
    @bluesummersky6936 Před 3 lety

    Does the duratec petrol engine 2.0 from ford focus mk 2.5 (facelift) has these swirl flaps? I hear a hissing noise from around the manifold and the fuel range is quite poor.

  • @jesuscuellar6007
    @jesuscuellar6007 Před 3 lety

    this same piece would work for fusion 2006 2.3?, seems to be the same intek

  • @DavidGonzalez-uo6pf
    @DavidGonzalez-uo6pf Před rokem

    So can I just leave them open or remove the flaps? Is hard to find those where I'm at.? Is for a Mazda 3 2010. Thanks mate

  • @alexcintas8792
    @alexcintas8792 Před 4 lety +1

    Were these on the 2008 USA focus?

  • @BertvandeLuitgaren
    @BertvandeLuitgaren Před 7 lety

    What a great series of detailled video's!! Can You tell me if an Mondeo MK4 whit a duratec HE 2.0 petrol engine from 11-2008 has swirl flaps?I have engine fault code P2008 I think that whit your video's i can do it myself.Thjanks in advanceBertus.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety

      I think they do but I don't have experience... but it is hard to find references to problems with them on the Mk4s. Your code may relate instead to the IMRC solenoid(s) on the later engines. Google "imrc solenoid valve mondeo"; part # 1357313, see diagram @ eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=1210075&s_id_model=130&s_code_image=G012525403

  • @MarcioR_Olv
    @MarcioR_Olv Před rokem

    Hello. Did this defect cause the engine to malfunction, or did it just cause noise?

  • @sebastianlueers805
    @sebastianlueers805 Před 5 lety +1

    Ur ma herooo!

  • @pauldarrigo4395
    @pauldarrigo4395 Před 2 lety

    I have a 2005 Mazda 3 2.3 Removed the flaps and the car just won't run right. I did NOT seal the holes between cylinders. I had a tune done and it still will run oddly. When cold the acceleration is hesitant. Even when warm sometimes I throw a code and have sluggish acceleration. At this point I may just replace the flaps or intake with a used one. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  • @Drewmc78
    @Drewmc78 Před 3 lety +2

    So ive just bought a Mk3 Mondeo, noisy tappets or so i thought. Followed your commentry and thought id investigate the inlet flaps. MY GOD!!!
    One had completely come off. The other 3 had lost their shape and were very worn. I removed the inlet manifold and a couple of them complete fell out. Is the medal rod supposed to be 1 piece as mine was in 3 bits!?! Anyway thanks, im gonna run it without flaps for now and see how it gets on. Awesome video. Subscribed!!

    • @Brokkolesz
      @Brokkolesz Před 3 lety

      How does it run without flaps? Any issues, abnormalities?

  • @tonycervantes4816
    @tonycervantes4816 Před rokem

    Hey sir to take of intake manifold need to remove of fan ? Or not

  • @jorgegarza6222
    @jorgegarza6222 Před 3 lety +1

    Awsome!!!!

  • @vaichius
    @vaichius Před 5 lety +3

    this is my favorite ASMR

  • @stevemoore999
    @stevemoore999 Před 7 lety +1

    Craig, if you just pull out the small vacuum pipe at the front, is there still a risk of the flaps falling into the engine?, I have remove the pipe and it has stopped the rattling noise but not sure if It's a long term fix

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety +2

      It's not a long term fix, just an indicative test... if they are loose enough to rattle, they are still loose in there and can still eventually fail. You may slow the wear down a little but not stop it 100%.

  • @brianandrews7099
    @brianandrews7099 Před 4 lety +1

    My 2005 Mercury Mariner 2.3 had this issue, but in my case, Ford had relocated the flaps deeper into the manifold and they are sealed into the main body of the manifold, which is completely sealed. The only way to solve the rattle was to replace the entire manifold with a new one from Ford; about $200.00 U.S. at the time. The engine ran fine but sounded like it was falling apart.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 4 lety

      Those are called IMRCs (runner controls) and aid with the airflow, some manifolds have both. Honestly $200 for a brand new manifold assembly is not the worst outcome.

    • @E-COMMERCETRENDS
      @E-COMMERCETRENDS Před 8 měsíci

      Hello l have a 2005 petrol 2.0 Ford Focus recently whenever I park my car in direct sunlight when I start the engine l am hearing unusual noise from the dashboard around the car radio area

  • @Marcin_z_bloku_obok
    @Marcin_z_bloku_obok Před 5 lety +1

    Are they in s-max too?

  • @tonycervantes4816
    @tonycervantes4816 Před 2 lety

    Hi sr I have a 2006 ford fusion 2.3 4 cyl. Have a code p2004 imrc. Stuck open. You know whats of problem there. Can help me. Thanks..

  • @donkeedk7934
    @donkeedk7934 Před 3 lety +1

    What model mk3 is this, I’m in love with that front bumper I have a Zetec and the fog lights are disgusting and the zs ones are nice but I really like your bumper

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 3 lety

      Just a standard pre-facelift, not Zetec. I agree sometimes simple and basic is best.

  • @donbosi3088
    @donbosi3088 Před 4 lety +1

    Hi Craig, is this the same engine B4204S3 of Ford/Mazda? Same engine in some Volvos. My volvo has B4204S3 engine 2011. Same problem will occur soon I believe and got to follow your advice. Thanks heaps. Great videos.

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 4 lety +1

      The later engines seemed to have less problems with the flaps, you might be lucky.

  • @lilandyman7190
    @lilandyman7190 Před 2 měsíci +1

    does these flaps fits american focus as well as Europe focus?

  • @dafff08
    @dafff08 Před 5 lety +2

    i started to hear some clicking noise as well:/
    focus mk2 1.6 07

  • @nicksimpson2832
    @nicksimpson2832 Před 5 lety +1

    Amazing video. Is it possible to pull the rod and remove the flaps only to reinstall the rod (without flaps). My thinking is that reinstalling the rod (without flaps) you will plug the holes that would have been left in the manifold runners if you didnt reinstall the rod.
    You remove the compromised flaps, save yourself the trouble of reinstalling new flaps that will wear out, and not create holes in the manifold.
    Thanks!!

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 5 lety

      You could, but the rod is really what's dangerous and it is what actually fails as shown in the video. Removing the flaps will probably slow the wear on it but I'm not sure how much. As to the holes between the runners, you could also seal them up with epoxy to isolate each tract but honestly I doubt it would make any perceptible difference to anything.

  • @emersonjosecicerodesa2620

    Bom dia,estou com o mesmo problema e não consigo encontrar essa peça pra comprar aqui no Brasil,vc pode me ajudar por favor?

  • @paulpatt5481
    @paulpatt5481 Před 7 lety

    Thanks for the great videos . I have a 2005 Ford Focus Duratec (USA) . Can I just disable the flaps as a preventative measure (pull the actuator vacuum line and plug it) ?

    • @CraigsDIY
      @CraigsDIY  Před 7 lety

      You could and I guess it would help a little, but the wear and failure is (I think) caused primarily by vibration, not the actuating of the flaps, so it wouldn't be a long term solution.

    • @johnmora5830
      @johnmora5830 Před 7 lety

      Paul Patt i too have have one do they have the flaps